Roadster Side Pipe Mounting Brackets

[JIMOCO]

I attempted to mount the brackets for the side pipes and found the passenger side pipe was too low but I do not have much clearence between the bracket and the frame/body. The engine is mounted at its highest point on the frame. I have the opposite problem on the drivers side in that the pipe is two high and cannot be mounted without touching the frame. The drivers side is also forward so that the bracket touches the cross member before installing the two bushings. Has anyone had this problem and found a solution?

[RobReam]

I had the same problem as you. I just took a grinder to the bracket to make room so it won't hit the body.

[skullandbones]

Since you are having the opposite problem from side to side, I would try rotating the engine on it's mounts a very small amount to correct the spacing. I think just about everybody has experienced this problem unless you somehow perfectly set the engine the first time. The change in position of the engine will be very small but the effect will be dramatic at the side pipe position. It's a geometry thing (radius)!

Good luck,

WEK.

[JIMOCO]

Thank you for the responses. I looked at the engine mounts and find that the passenger side is as high as it can go. This will prevent me from lowering the drivers side. I think my plan will be to cut the exhaust mounting bracket, weld in a spacer and then powder cost both brackets to match the frame.

[RobReam]

I also tried to move the engine but there was not enough room to get it where I needed it.

[6t8dart]

Shim the engine mounts

[edwardb]

Thank you for the responses. I looked at the engine mounts and find that the passenger side is as high as it can go. This will prevent me from lowering the drivers side. I think my plan will be to cut the exhaust mounting bracket, weld in a spacer and then powder cost both brackets to match the frame.

It's not unusual to have to lengthen the slots in the engine mounts to let the engine rotate a bit more for best header/pipe alignment. Interestingly, for both of my builds (Mk3 and Mk4) I had to raise the slot on the PS about 1/8 inch. That made enough different to raise the PS and lower the DS to get the headers and pipes to line up adequately. Also the Mk4 makes the side pipe mounting brackets a bit tighter because of the wraparound sill of the body. the Mk3's (and before) didn't have this extra 1/4 inch or so of thickness under the frame at that point. So they were less critical. Mine were very tight on my Mk4, but I was able to get them to work without making new brackets or modifying the supplied ones. It shouldn't be necessary to shim the engine mounts.

[JIMOCO]

I am not a big fan of shimming the engine mounts and I have considedred elongating the holes on the frame's engine mounting bracket. My question to edwardb is, with a tight clearance between the body and the side pipe mounts, do they then thump the underside of the body as the engine shakes and moves? If yes, is it noticeable?

[edwardb]

I am not a big fan of shimming the engine mounts and I have considedred elongating the holes on the frame's engine mounting bracket. My question to edwardb is, with a tight clearance between the body and the side pipe mounts, do they then thump the underside of the body as the engine shakes and moves? If yes, is it noticeable?

I just went out and roughly measured my side pipe mounts. The PS has about 1/2 inch clearance to the fiberglass body wraparound. The DS is closer at about 1/4 inch. 1200+ miles now and no evidence they've ever touched the fiberglass and certainly no sounds coming from there. I have the FF supplied Energy Suspension motor mounts, which are pretty stiff compared to stock mounts. I don't see the engine or pipes moving around much. If you have the same motor mounts (expect you do) then you can run them at least this tight without a problem in my experience.

[JIMOCO]

Thanks. I do have the same engine mounts. I have less than a half inch clearance on the PS and negative clearance on the DS. I also have the option to go bracket free which is what i am doing now. Don't know the long term effect of doing that will be.

[RobReam]

Thanks. I do have the same engine mounts. I have less than a half inch clearance on the PS and negative clearance on the DS. I also have the option to go bracket free which is what i am doing now. Don't know the long term effect of doing that will be.

JIMOCO I"m not that far from you. I live in Lebanon County and if you want to check my car out, you can. I live right off 422

[edwardb]

Thanks. I do have the same engine mounts. I have less than a half inch clearance on the PS and negative clearance on the DS. I also have the option to go bracket free which is what i am doing now. Don't know the long term effect of doing that will be.

I assume your pipes are level, providing the most clearance possible. You do have the option to lengthen the slot in the engine mount on the PS and rotate the engine a bit, as discussed earlier. Or modify the brackets as you mentioned before. I assume you have the inner pivot point on the bracket, where it's attached to the 2 inch chassis tube, as low as possible to provide the most clearance. Another modification option I've seen described was adding a plate or bracket to the 2 inch chassis tube to lower the inner pivot point even further.

Leaving the brackets off is yet another option. Not my personal choice, but this is discussed occasionally on the other forum and some report leaving them off with no issues.

[JIMOCO]

Thanks edwardb for the suggestions. I will take a closer look and see if the suggestions might work.
Rob - I would like to meet sometime. PenDOT notified that my application for title and tags is being processed and I should be legal in 5 to 10 business days. I will send you an email when I get my car on the road.