Budget build

[beetlespin]

If you were to build a Roadster using the complete kit what else do you need to purchase (not including Engine/Transmission/Rear End with Rear Brakes, Wheels and Tires, Paint, Fuel pump)?

I have built several aluminum boats using a basic shell and adding all the components (wiring, seats, motors, fish finders, etc.) and it seem like I was at the hardware store every five minutes getting something. All these parts added up quickly increasing the cost to probably more than if I purchased a completed boat.

Seeing FFR cars for sale between $31,000 - $35,000 this might be the case also.

So, like many of you I want to build my car and make it mine. Just trying to get a grasp on how much I will need to spend in addition to the initial purchase minus the additional needed components.

I guess the best way to put this what is the "must have" list of parts they may or may not replace what you get in the kit.

[68GT500MAN]

The answer to your question will receive many different responses. When I built my roadster, I only went to the hardware store if I was making modifications to the kit; same so far with the Hot Rod. Others have been to the store many times because they wanted to "upgrade" from the supplied fastener.
Doug

[Paul R]

I am in the finishing stages of my roadster. I opted for the base kit. I purchased a donor 1996 Mustang Cobra for $3500. I sold parts off of it and got back about $1500. Some of my donor parts had to be replaced because they were worn out. I have spent between $28-29K for my complete set up. I have played with numbers and probably saved about $6k going this route. However, in my dream world with all new parts (complete kit, crate engine, etc) I could have easily spent $45k. In the end it really just depends on what you are wanting in it. Are you ok with an older engine that is rebuilt or do you want a new Coyote? This is the type of question you will have to answer. With my setup, the only change I made was to go with new gauges. Hope this helps.

[edwardb]

I would say the answer is mostly up to you. You can build the complete kit bone stock just as it comes from FF and have a very nice and functional build. You will need some occasional adhesive, lubes, etc. and once in awhile one of the provided hardware items may not be completely correct. But once you start down the path of modifications, adding items, etc. then the budget will start to get hit. It's a slippery slope. I've said this several times, but will say it again. Much of the bandwidth on both forums is about changes, modifications, "improvements," etc. It would be easy to get the impression that the complete kit somehow "needs" all that. Mostly it doesn't, but it's all about expectations. Having said that, FF doesn't talk about sound or heat insulation. I would put that in the "need" category. Lots of options, and can be as high or low tech as you want. Not a major add necessarily. There's also a question about finish on the exposed aluminum panels. You can leave them plain, or lots of finish options for low tech and cheap to pretty expensive.

[KDubU]

Here is my analysis for what it's worth. I'm planning to purchase the complete kit, 351w, TKO600, 15" tires, second rollbar chrome and the budget for me is $46k. This includes outsourcing prep and paint, drivetrain. If you're planning a all new build the only way to cut this price down is shop around for other painters who'll be less expensive than who I am selecting or possibly do the prep yourself. The other is drivetrain, go with a 302 or build your own as that would likely save some dollars. Unless one goes donor I don't see how a finished car will be less than $35-40k. This is based on:

$19,900 complete kit
$9-12,000 for drivetrain (can be much higher depending on engine)
$7-10,000 prep and paint

Other items will soon increase these prices. Again this is just what I have determined, prices vary across the country and how much time you have to look for deals.

[6t8dart]

Your best bet is to use a 'Donor" car for even a complete kit, you will spend way less for a complete car, pull the drivetrain and rear, sell the rest. As an example I found a 92 mustang with a freshly built 347 with a carb, a 5 lug rear end with cobra brakes and a 5 speed for $7800 on Craigslist and another 89 Mustang race car with a 9" rear, and a 460 engine for $4500. Those were some options that were local to be.

Remember, what eats you alive when adding an engine, ignition box, distributor, plug wires, coil, gaskets, bolts, thermostat housing, etc. Its all the little crap that adds up, even when you buy a complete run-in crate motor, there are these things that could set you back thousands. If you buy a whole car, then you get everything with it.

[Paul R]

I have to agree with you completely on this. Go with a donor car even if you go with the complete kit. $4500 for an engine, transmission and rear end is much cheaper than new.

[skullandbones]

Hi beetlespin,

It may help you to get access to a parts list for the basic roadster kit and a complete one then compare (itemized list). Your constant will be the drivetrain, paint/body work, and add ons. You will pay out for those things no matter how you go. If you are very good at shopping and picking parts (cherry picking) instead of doing a donor build, you can come out with a very nice custom build that suits your needs and wants without buying a single donor. Single donors may have been a real option in the beginning but not so much now. It's hard to find good stuff throughout the same donor. I have used components from several different year donors and it allows for a lot of adjustment and improvements that would not be possible for the single donor buy. Also, the sales of FFR cars is not a real indicator of how much was actually spent building the car. It's only the market value of the car at time of sale. Think back to the time you built that boat from the hull up. Would you want to do that with this project? Even the basic kit will be better than that but the complete kit will save you a lot of time chasing down parts. That is the major advantage of getting a complete kit vs a basic roadster. I think you will save time with the complete kit and you will save some additional money with the basic kit but you will loss much time in the tedious gathering of components if you go that way. I think the idea of a budget build is not really consistent with the complete kit because of the trade off. You can spend a lot of money at the hardware store but I have found that it is also a way to save if you buy judiciously and still can get upgrades and customization that would not be possible the other way.

Regarding your specific question: I would say I have about 7k besides the basic kit, crate short block, donor pallet, 4x4 headers, and other extras added at time of kit purchase. Total expense minus labor is about 28 to 29k so far. With all the cars I've driven, I still have gotten more pleasure from driving the roadster than any other ever.

Good luck on finding the most efficient way to do your project,

WEK.

[CraigS]

I would stay away from a donor car-a long way away. I don't see the point of having a 20 yr old car to supply parts. Do you really want a 20 yr old wiring harness that needs maybe 30% of it removed and you still have 22 year old plastic to deal with. The other problem is that there is no perfect donor unless you want a car w/ 4 lug wheels, drum rear brakes, a worn out 302 w/ a worn out T-5 trans. Example rear axle: you want a limited slip w/ a 355 or 331 and disc brakes and standard fox width. This did not exist on any Mustang. Fox width came w/ drum brakes, 308 or 273 gear, lim slip. Disc brake axles came only in too wide width. Etc, Etc. If I were to build a new one I would go complete kit and I would carefully source the stuff I need over maybe a year. There are many deals to be had if you watch carefully. Especially the Mustang crowd. They love to upgrade their cars so you can find engines and tans etc. Be patient and look hard.

[skullandbones]

What Craig is saying and my term "cherry picking" is about the same, I think. I purchased an engine that a Mustang guy had. He wreaked it while test driving the new build. So I got an engine with a $600 intake, Crane aluminum rocker arms, a set of good steel heads along with a pretty decent engine and all the accessories for $300. That's why you have to be patient. Deals like that come along infrequently or come and go fast. So you have to be ready to pull the trigger and have the money on hand (sometimes in cash). So a budget build is feasible; you just have to be creative.

WEK.

[walt mckenna]

I needed to build my Mark IV on a budget, so I went the donor route. My advice would be to get the newest and lowest mileage donor possible for the price you can afford to pay. If you purchase a salvage unit, be sure to inspect it thoroughly for damaged parts (ie: engine, trans, rear, engine wiring, computer, spindles, brakes, gas tank, etc.) if you cannot operator or otherwise check operation of the critical pieces, walk away and look elsewhere or risk purchasing a money pit.

The donor will cost you in excess of 100 man-hours to pull parts, inspect, clean, paint, sell, ship, etc., so factor your time into the equation. I had this piece all done before I purchased the kit so that I had plenty of room to work and I could concentrate fully on assembly.

Yes, I would do it again, but it is not without risks, so do your homework and you'll be fine.............. You won't believe the amount of miscellaneous parts, from the donor, that will come in handy during the build.

[6t8dart]

its funny that a few days ago I posted that there are deals on Craigslist if you jump on them. I went the donor route, but I was planning on freshening up the engine and trans before install. However, Saturday night I found a freshly rebuilt 5.0 engine, with E303 cam, ported and polished heads, 1.7 rockers, all the accessories , ported and polished intake, and an AOD and converter, all for $1900, less that the parts and labor to do mine. He also included a new MSD dist, wires, coil, B&M shifter, BBK headers, Gasket set, fuel rails, engine stand, ETC. I definitely scored with this one! He had planned to do a swap into a Ford Ranger but now needed cash.

[TouchStone]

"budget build" sounds like an oxymoron to me ;). Could be done if you have a strong will, resist the upgrades and take your time.

[CraigS]

its funny that a few days ago I posted that there are deals on Craigslist if you jump on them. I went the donor route, but I was planning on freshening up the engine and trans before install. However, Saturday night I found a freshly rebuilt 5.0 engine, with E303 cam, ported and polished heads, 1.7 rockers, all the accessories , ported and polished intake, and an AOD and converter, all for $1900, less that the parts and labor to do mine. He also included a new MSD dist, wires, coil, B&M shifter, BBK headers, Gasket set, fuel rails, engine stand, ETC. I definitely scored with this one! He had planned to do a swap into a Ford Ranger but now needed cash.
My point exactly.

[R Thomas]

The complete kit is in fact a complete kit. The items you mentioned in parens are all u NEED however there are many options that make total price quite variable. As for FFR things that are not included are usually related to state required specifics such as Windshield Wipers, Catalytic converters, and such. Some also opt for a heater or glove box or upgrade from black powder coat to Chrome. Certain decisions seem to generate demands on the kit configuration. An example trying to fit a 6-spd in a roadster results in the requirement of IRS because drive shaft is so short. So far the big ticket item for me will be painting with a conservative estimate of $7000. So if your a painter and enjoy that work you might save $5000 or more. Also if your handy with a wrench you might put together your own motor a lot cheaper than buying crate. There are probably more opinions on how to do a kit than there are kits that got done. All I can say about that, they all look good to me and I wish I could pic a color cause I've yet to see one I didn't like.

[CraigS]

There are a lot of ways to save on paint also. The two maestros who frequent this forum are fantastic and worth every penny they charge if that level of craftsmanship is what you want. OTOH, you can do a ton of the work yourself. There are many threads showing details of different aspects of the job. If you have everything fitted so the doors, trunk and hood open correctly, and you are willing to accept that a door panel may not be perfectly in the same plane as the fender, you can find someone to paint the car for $3500 or less. You just need to find a shop that will treat it like a wide body Miata and not like a 4-6 month project that is expected to win awards and have their name on it.