In hindsight what parts would you have purchased up front

[Flamshackle]

Hi,

I live in Aotearoa (New Zealand) and have just ordered my 818 coupe.

I have watched the development of the car since the beginning of the design competition. My wife and I visited FFR in Janurary and had been waiting for the release of the coupe before we pulled the trigger on a build.

It's just stunning! So we are about to start the build.

I really don't like the idea of a turbo engine/light car combo. The power curve (surge) of a turbo motor is undesirable to me for drivability and traction.

So my ultimate ambition is to make it a supercharged H6 with a really nice finish in and out. It will sound amazing, look amazing and go like a cut cat. Can't wait.

However to get the car rolling (road going) to begin with it will start life with a 2.0 turbo to keep it easy.

My question is this...

1) What would parts would you purchase from the beginning that don't come with the kit?
I am currently looking at
-Wayne's shifter
-Rori's steering height adjuster plate.
-set of wheels (help me choose)

2) What would you have spent more time/energy developing on your car in hindsight. Please tell me if you have any regrets and equally what you were surprised at afterwards.

Cheers!

Scottie.

[bbjones121]

Stainless braided brake lines
Stainless braided clutch line (from replicaparts)
Radiator supports (from mechie)
FFR upgraded shifter
FFR wheels (there are actually only a few options with the correct size, bolt pattern, and offset)
Skip the H6 (traction is better with turbo, not worse)
FFR steering wheel
Remote brake reservoir kit (replica parts)
Aluminum radiator (yanaka is best price)
Better seats
AWIC (mechies)
Oil filler spout (mechies)
Get a tig welder and weld all the kit tabs to chassis instead of rivetting

I regret tearing my donor engine apart.

[DodgyTim]

Having imported a kit into Australia, I'd suggest you make the most of the crate by cramming it full of any larger items that you could buy from the USA
Saving the freight cost of wheels and tires, and buying them in the US$ makes a significant saving in the total build
Are wings, splitters, Boyd tank, headers, seats on your build list?

Junty would also be able to give you a idea of all the problems with RHD so that you could get those issues with FFR sorted prior to shipping

[Harley818]

Doing it again I would build using the following list:
Stainless braided brake lines $110
Stainless braided clutch line
XXR530 wheels and tires $850
I still plan to buy aftermarket steering wheel
Solid coolant tubes....I don't like my FFR flexible ones, and if I did it again.....
Aluminum radiator (I have mishimoto) $185
I bought ebay replica recaro seats, $275 pr but I will probably switch them for something better so I can have heated seats.
AWIC (mechies - I didn't clock my turbo, but next time I would) $500-600
I rebuilt my engine and so far, glad I did. You can get a short block for around $2500 I think. Might be worth it depending on what you are using.
I haven't bought an LSD yet, but will probably do so in the first 6 mo of driving. Most have the Cusco type I think. they are around $1000 - 1250
Cobb intake and Accessport v3 (gives you all the diagnostics and downloadable tune) $165 + $650
STI oilpan
I have the 2 pot front brakes and single pot rears off my 2002. Source some 4 pot and 2 pots.
I have the stock fuel tank but next time would go Boyd.

[Flamshackle]

Stainless braided brake lines
Stainless braided clutch line (from replicaparts)
Radiator supports (from mechie)
FFR upgraded shifter
FFR wheels (there are actually only a few options with the correct size, bolt pattern, and offset)
Skip the H6 (traction is better with turbo, not worse)
FFR steering wheel
Remote brake reservoir kit (replica parts)
Aluminum radiator (yanaka is best price)
Better seats
AWIC (mechies)
Oil filler spout (mechies)
Get a tig welder and weld all the kit tabs to chassis instead of rivetting

I regret tearing my donor engine apart.

Thanks heaps this is great info.

A couple of you saying to get braided lines, this was not on my radar.



Skip the H6 (traction is better with turbo, not worse)

I have built a race subaru and worked on lotus both turbo and not. Your statement flys in the face of my experience and car knowlege.

[michael everson]

Check out my web site for some nice 818 parts www.replicaparts.com I am local to them and can drive down there and put them in the crate for you.
Mike

[Mechie3]

Iwire harness. I spent many many many hours on my harness that could have been better spent elsewhere.

[Flamshackle]

Check out my web site for some nice 818 parts www.replicaparts.com I am local to them and can drive down there and put them in the crate for you.
Mike

Cheers

[wallace18]

Boyd tank for sure.

[Hindsight]

I heard my name.......

I can't say a lot of this was in hindsight because some of this I got in advance, but here goes my list:

1. Lighting. Get plenty of light in your shop. Makes everything 10x easier. For a two car garage, I added four dual t-8 high output fixtures.
2. Tools, tools tools. Sounds like you may already have this covered, but what has come in very handy for me has been a TIG welder, a good and large drill press, an abrasive chop saw (for cutting steel), and a woodworking chop saw (for cutting aluminum)

Car parts:
- Limited slip diff
- Electronic Traction Control (Race Logic). This will solve your traction/safety concerns about a turbo motor in a light car, but I will say a supercharged 6 cylinder 818C does sound awfully nice!
- AWIC - Must have IMHO
- Different shifter. Either get Wayne's or fab your own MR2 as others have done. Big thing is to ensure you have cables that go from the shifter straight back to the transmission. Don't do the big loop.

You'll get the new FFR fuel tank so the Boyd tank may not be a must-have unless you have a very tall passenger (the new FFR tank only gives the driver more leg room), though unlike the Boyd tank, the new FFR tank is setup to use the OEM Subaru fuel pump top and second sender which is very nice.

[john g]

If they apply to the coupe:

1. Michael Everson's engine cover hinges
2. Mechie's rear fender brace

And:
3. FFR windshield wiper kit, if it works on RH drive
4. Rivnut tool and extra rivnuts. Note that FFR-supplied fasteners and mainly English/imperial. If these are not readily available in your part of the world, consider buying extra 1/20 button head screws.

Have fun!

John

[Hindsight]

Get a tig welder and weld all the kit tabs to chassis instead of rivetting

Interesting... I had not thought to do this and I have a tig welder. Is there any issue with riveting them? I assume you are talking about the brake line tabs?

[Buzz Skyline]

I am doing a minimum budget build, and plan to upgrade over time. But here are things I consider absolutely necessary even on the cheap

AWIC kit
Group N motor and tranny mounts
Windshield wipers (for registration)
Short ram intake
Cobb or open source tuning system

-Buzz

[Mitch Wright]

I purchased all the parts needed to freshen up the donor parts to prep for install that I was planning to use for my build. (818R Track only) Including replacement hoses, spark plugs, group N motor mounts, clutch, flywheel if not using the stock one, LDS, senders for what additional gauges you might want.
Doing it again would have sent the wiring harness to Iwire while waiting on my kit. Once I got into the build I have changed my mind and direction a few times (Brakes and MR2 shifter are examples) so I am glad I didn't get to carried away. In your case being that the your car is being shipped over seas it does make sense to load up the create.

[Flamshackle]

I heard my name.......

I can't say a lot of this was in hindsight because some of this I got in advance, but here goes my list:

1. Lighting. Get plenty of light in your shop. Makes everything 10x easier. For a two car garage, I added four dual t-8 high output fixtures.
2. Tools, tools tools. Sounds like you may already have this covered, but what has come in very handy for me has been a TIG welder, a good and large drill press, an abrasive chop saw (for cutting steel), and a woodworking chop saw (for cutting aluminum)

Car parts:
- Limited slip diff
- Electronic Traction Control (Race Logic). This will solve your traction/safety concerns about a turbo motor in a light car, but I will say a supercharged 6 cylinder 818C does sound awfully nice!
- AWIC - Must have IMHO
- Different shifter. Either get Wayne's or fab your own MR2 as others have done. Big thing is to ensure you have cables that go from the shifter straight back to the transmission. Don't do the big loop.

You'll get the new FFR fuel tank so the Boyd tank may not be a must-have unless you have a very tall passenger (the new FFR tank only gives the driver more leg room), though unlike the Boyd tank, the new FFR tank is setup to use the OEM Subaru fuel pump top and second sender which is very nice.


Wow, this thread was a lot more helpful than I had hoped.

Cheers for all your input guys this is gold!

[Harley818]

I forgot to add in the Group N mounts, engine and trans, as noted by Buzz. I would second this as a must have. I have them from the start, but others used OEM and are having problems with engine movement.

[Flamshackle]

I forgot to add in the Group N mounts, engine and trans, as noted by Buzz. I would second this as a must have. I have them from the start, but others used OEM and are having problems with engine movement.


Cheers again. I can get them locally pretty cheap so will do :-)

My list is looking good.

[wleehendrick]

I don't think it has been mentioned... a better passenger side steering rack mount. The whole front end appearance and robustness can be improved greatly with the various machined radiator and steering rack brackets other builders have designed. Much better than the stamped/bent brackets in the kit. Get the parts and put it together right the first time!

If you do start with an EJ, replace the oil pickup with a Killer Bee and put an STi pan on a 2.0l.

[Junty]

Hey Dude,
Looking forward to more 818's in the land of Aotearoa :-)
Just a couple of things... For compliance within NZ the group N mounts won't pass. We require mounts that will still support and hold the engine in the unlikely event the rubber completely deteriorates or gives way. I found the best option here was to fit the Cusco engine and transmission mounts - they have the little nolathane type bush which is surrounded completely by steel body - impossible to allow the engine to move far - even if the rubber/nolathane vanished! These have also completely eliminated the engine movement that other builders have experienced - my engine hardly moves or flexes at all (only 1/4 inch max).
I would investigate if FFR are making the new fuel tank in RHD version? If not maybe the Boyd tank is another must have?
Cheers,
junty

[Martin]

Wheels yes, but don't bother with tyres.

If it takes a long time to build, tyres will age/crack.

Martin

[bbjones121]

Wheels yes, but don't bother with tyres.

If it takes a long time to build, tyres will age/crack.

Martin

How long is "long time"?

[wleehendrick]

For compliance within NZ the group N mounts won't pass. We require mounts that will still support and hold the engine in the unlikely event the rubber completely deteriorates or gives way.

That's crazy! the OEM mounts offer no such security and there are plenty of subies in NZ. I doubt most of the cars on the road there have 'failsafe' mounts, so seems silly to impose it on a home builder. :confused:

[Flamshackle]

That's crazy! the OEM mounts offer no such security and there are plenty of subies in NZ. I doubt most of the cars on the road there have 'failsafe' mounts, so seems silly to impose it on a home builder. :confused:

Yea it's a bit off. At least it solves the motor movement problem though

[Flamshackle]

How long is "long time"?

Even in the dark and not under stress the rubber and composite components can deteriorate on tires. Different brands and tire properties make it hard to give any consistent time frames but some manufacturers will biff a tire after 6 years in storage.

I think for a performance car it's always best to stand on the safer side of the line with a critical component like tires. 10 year old tires would be a no no for me.

[SnyderJD]

This thread seemed like the best place for this question. What are peoples thoughts on the following parts? I am looking at these options for the 818C...

Carbon fiber Street Splitter / Diffuser / Spoiler
Adjustable Rear Lower control Arms
Wilwood Pedal Box

I have picked up a donor through Wayne, 03 WRX along with his Shifter... With a baby on the way, I am trying to keep the initial build as low as possible...

[Pearldrummer7]

Lots of good info here. +1 to:
-engine/trans mounts.
-Modify steering rack (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=157807&viewfull=1#post157807)
-Better lighting in the garage
-Most or all of Mechie's/ZDB parts
-Wayne's modified rear trailing arms
-a better rivet gun than I bought


And I think I'd have GoPro'd the teardown/build up a little more than I did. It's so cool watching the time lapse videos, and I only did it when I remembered (so...like 20% of the time).