View Full Version : Inner & Outer Tie rods
So I cut approximately 2" off of the inner tie rod and I still need to take a 1/2" off of the outer tie rod to give me the ability to adjust the toe in properly because if I don't cut the outer tie rods the front wheels will be toed out with no room to adjust the toe position to in or even straight ahead. Someone please please please tell me that you had a similar experience, thanks.
edwardb
06-10-2015, 07:18 PM
Not unusual to have to cut some of the length off the inner tie rods. But 1-1/2 - 2 inches should be plenty. I assume you cut 1/2 inch off the outer tie rod because it was running up the end of the threads on the inner tie rod? Something doesn't sound right. Is the rest of your front end alignment at least in the ball park? It could make a difference. Tell us more about your front suspension components and how they're mounted. Pictures would be best.
Hi edwardb, I have the stock FFR adjustable upper and lower "A" arms with upside down koni coil overs, I am using a de-powered 1987 Ford Mustang GT donor rack with the FFR rack spacers. I didn't cut the outer tie-rod yet because it does not feel sound right to me either but at this point who knows. Yes the outer tie-rod and locking nut were up against the stop (ran out of threads on the inner tie-rod) and the tires looked pigeon toed.
rich grsc
06-10-2015, 08:31 PM
Hi edwardb, I have the stock FFR adjustable upper and lower "A" arms with upside down koni coil overs, I am using a de-powered 1987 Ford Mustang GT donor rack with the FFR rack spacers. I didn't cut the outer tie-rod yet because it does not feel sound right to me either but at this point who knows. Yes the outer tie-rod and locking nut were up against the stop (ran out of threads on the inner tie-rod) and the tires looked pigeon toed.
Don't think you can use an 87 rack, and you will hate a de-powered rack. You will do much better to buy a manual rack.
edwardb
06-10-2015, 08:40 PM
I can't comment about whether the rack you have will work or not. I don't know. But I was going to chime in about the de-powered rack. Probably one of the most disliked parts of a pure donor build. I'm with Rich. Find an actual manual rack.
Still wondering whether you have the other alignment settings roughed in or not. Also, now I'm wondering if you have the car sitting on the ground with the suspension loaded. Or just hanging in the air at full droop? If the latter, you can't tell much about toe at that point and shouldn't really be trying to set it. For sure you shouldn't be cutting anything yet. Maybe others have some suggestions.
car is sitting on the garage floor under its own weight with no jacks or jack stands in, around or under it. I will have to try adjusting the upper "A" arm settings to see if I can get the tires toed-in, thanks again
CraigS
06-11-2015, 06:30 AM
Regarding toe in don't worry for now about caster. I would make both the front and rear sleeves of the UCA the same length and make the wheel vertical by adjusting both. Use a carpenters square or even a pizza box on the floor next to the wheel like this.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/IMG_20140923_133134_026_zpsfc0e0b80.jpg
This pic has a ton of negative camber so adjust yours so the wheel is parallel to the square.
R Thomas
06-11-2015, 11:27 AM
Did you get the 2 piece spindle kit. If so you might have the pieces for the 33 Hotrod and not the Mk4. The Mk4 ones are almost straight while the 33 looks more like and L.
Thanks CraigS and R Thomas, my kit is a Mk 3.1 and I am using an 87 Mustang GT as a donor with an E-cam Ford 306 crate engine. I will try your carpenter's square trick.
PS engine & trans are already in the chasiss
so I did all of that and the front wheels of my MK3.1 are still toed out so I'm cutting the outer tie-rod ends by 1/2", thanks for all of your suggestions and help!!