Hand Rivet and Hand Rivet-Nut Insert Tools

[4.6 litre]

Any recommendations for hand rivet and hand rivet nut insert tools? Are #6-32 and
#8-32 aluminum a good size rivet nut to use with the 6061 aluminum panels?

Another question, in the trunk area there are 3/4 inch diagonal tubes under which you must drill close quarter holes. What's a good way to to drill them? I thought about a close quarter drill or a 90 degree drill attachment but I'm not sure they will work well, any comments?

Thanks,

Damien

[6t8dart]

I have actually used a HF cheap tool for a few years, while not the best quality, it works and has not failed yet.

[RM1SepEx]

Amazon.com search rivet nut tool
I use a pneumatic riveter from harbor freight
a pneumatic 90 degree drill will meet your needs for the least $

[DaleG]

Damien, Are you talking about drilling holes in the underside of the diagonals in the trunk area? If so, why?

[edwardb]

I did my first build with a hand riveter. Just the usual generic kind from the local hardware/big box store. Worked OK, but kind of a workout. The 3/16 inch size especially. I had some SS ones for some of the wiring clamps. Probably not needed, but I felt better using them. All I could do to squeeze those things by hand. For the Mk4 build, bought a "professional" hand riveter at a local tool store. It wasn't any better than the generic one other than a slightly slimmer tip. So bought a Campbell Hausfeld air rivet gun at a local tool store. One of the best purchases I made for the build. Not only does it save the hands, it sets rivets perfectly. Better than manual IMO. Pulls all sizes to date with ease. It's a little more than then H-F version. I've read good and bad reviews for the H-F one. This one has been perfect.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/th_IMG_1873.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1873.jpg.html)

For rivet nuts, I pretty much standardized on 10-32's. I found the smaller sizes don't set as firmly, and the #10 screws are a good size and widely available. I use 10-32 rivet nuts and socket head button screws instead of rivets where I want something removable or serviceable. Like the splash guards, for example. I use a 2-wrench manual installation tool from McMaster Carr. Low tech, but 100% reliable and not too expensive. Their part number 96349A203. Liked it so much I picked up another for 5/16 rivet nuts used several places on the build.

I'm not sure which rivets you're referring to in the trunk that have close quarters like you describe. I regularly tell builder to rivet the trunk pieces before the rear cockpit wall, which is different than the order in the instruction manual. With the rear cockpit wall in place, several rivets become very hard to get to. Maybe that's what you mean?

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Agree on the floor before the cockpit back wall. Did 99.9% of my rivets with a normal air gun from Amazon. Standard hand powered one for the rest.

[ehansen007]

There is nothing cooler than the Air Rivet gun. The Riv-nut tool is also way better than the bolt type. Two must have tools for building an FFR car.

[4.6 litre]

It's always best to give the whole story.

The diagonal tube is just below the man's hand. As you get closer to the cockpit it's difficult to drill a hole underneath it.

42321

I have a 3 gallon pancake compressor so I can't use the HF pneumatic rivet gun because the compressor is too small. At least that's what the rivet gun specs say. Since all my tools are electric I don't want to spend $120 for a larger compressor for just one tool. Does anyone think a HF pancake compressor can support a pneumatic rivet gun?

I was thinking about using a rivet nut drill adapter. They run about $80. However my wife who attended car building school with me used the hand rivet tool and has talked me into going with that. Craftsmen has a hand rivet tool for $30 so I'm inclined to go that way. If the riveting becomes a problem, I'll get a rivdrill adapter if that's a good choice, any comments.

Regarding the rivet nuts. I'm putting an access panel in the DS FB vertical interior (engine side) panel to access the header bolts on my coyote engine. So I'm a little concerned about the length of the nut. I was looking at the #6-32 and #8-32 rivet nut since they have the shortest penetration and I don't want the nut to touch or penetrate the engine. I'll have to check my engine-panel clearances for the larger rivet nuts. The access panel is being installed for my convenience not because it is required. I have both the original header studs and the Summit header bolts and can use either set.

I hope this clarifies my situation. Your comments are always appreciated.

Thanks
Damien

[j.miller]

Your compressor is fine for a pneumatic rivet gun. They use 40-50 psi but almost no volume.....It's what we use on a lot of our travel builds...As far as the Rivnut gun. I have never used a low dollar one because we use them all the time....so I don't have an opinion on that...da Bat

[edwardb]

As Jeff said, your compressor would be fine for an air-drive riveter. I have a Porter Cable pancake compressor in my basement, and occasionally use the riveter down there. Handles it just fine. If you're really in rapid fire mode, you may have to wait a bit for the compressor. But not likely. Still way better than squeezing them by hand.

Thanks for posting the picture. Still not getting where you're trying to put rivets in that area though. First, unless you have a very early Mk4, that particular inside piece is no longer used. Only the larger outside trunk side in the upper trunk area. The rivets on either side only go in horizontally to the 3/4 tube.

[4.6 litre]

Thanks for the input on the compressor. I should have asked that question a long time ago. Later I'll attach a photo of the drill holes under the diagonal 3/4" tube.

Thanks for the info,

Damien

[BEAR-AvHistory]

2000+ rivets by hand can be a PIA. Guns available from Amazon are inexpensive & will easily do the job.

[stevenburgess]

$29 at HF

[jrcuz]

If you get the HF rivet gun (or any one that is painted) be prepared to use an impact wrench to get the bottom off. They are assembled then painted which makes the bottom very to difficult to remove.
JR

[Avalanche325]

The Harbor Freight riv-nut tool works fine. I used riv-nuts for quite a few things including the elephant ears, drivers foot box access, etc. I have used #6,#8,#10,and 1/4" in various places. You can get the riv-nuts themselves from McMaster Carr.

Whether you use a pneumatic rivet gun or not, you will probably need a swivel head rivet gun at some point. I got mine at Ace Hardware. I didn't use a pneumatic. Its not like you put all the rivets in on the same day. Plus, it is fun being able to pop tennis balls with your bare hands.

A 90 degree drill attachment comes in handy. I got the smallest one that I could find. It uses the hex shank type bits. Get stubby bits it you can find them. If I build again, my rear cockpit aluminum is not going in until the trunk floor is done. That is above mentioned tools were purchased for.

[chrisarella]

Best rated air riveter under $100 is the Astro Pneumatic PR14 (blue bottom, yellow top):
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-PR14-Air-Riveter/dp/B000MQ9H4W/

All others including the PR36 (blue top, yellow bottom) is no where near as good IMHO.

I also got the Arrow RHT300 Swivel Head Rivet Tool for those hard-to-reach spots:
http://www.amazon.com/Arrow-RHT300-Swivel-shoots-16-Inch/dp/B00004Z2JM/

I hear the Ace Hardware version of this is the better buy because others had issues with a nut coming loose causing the tool to fail but tightening the nut resolved it. I however haven't had any issues with mine.

Since Rivnuts are going to be few and far-between I went with this simple Surebonder 8510 Threaded Insert Tool:
http://www.amazon.com/Surebonder-8510-10-24-Threaded-Insert/dp/B0003J2B5A/

There are better out there if you are willing to spend more money but it is hard to justify spending more for the little amount of use it will get. Better off spending your money on the better Riveter.

HTH

[4.6 litre]

Guys,

Thanks for all the great responses.

Damien

[6t8dart]

I think I might order that Astro gun.

[pcww]

On EdwardB's advice I purchased the Campbell Hausfield tool and it worked great.

[4.6 litre]

On EdwardB's advice I purchased the Campbell Hausfield tool and it worked great.

I purchased the Campbell Hausfeld tool also. Thanks EdwardB. Bought it thru my wife's Amazon Prime account so I got fee shipping and of coursed no tax and so it was very close to the HF price. Works very well with my HF 3 gallon pancake compressor. It also comes with a year warranty. I think the the HF one has a standard 90 day warranty, just my two cents.

Regards and thanks,

Damien

[edwardb]

Hey Amazon and Campbell Hausfeld... where's my commission check? :rolleyes: Seriously, glad those worked out for you. Mine is about to start another build (!!!) and still going strong. I think it's a nice step up from the somewhat spotty reviews seen with the HF version.

[4.6 litre]

Hey Amazon and Campbell Hausfeld... where's my commission check? :rolleyes: Seriously, glad those worked out for you. Mine is about to start another build (!!!) and still going strong. I think it's a nice step up from the somewhat spotty reviews seen with the HF version.

"Imitation is the greatest form of flattery". I know you guys just love it.

Thanks,

Damien

[rcflash]

I bought a HF pneumatic riveter and the nose piece broke quickly. Less than 20 rivets. They were 3/16 rivets. Tried JB weld, that lasted another 30 or so before re breaking. I did that several times, finally gave up and used a hand riveter. The pneumatic was very nice while it worked.