MK IV using a donor

[traveler]

Has anyone on here built a roadster using the donor for everything?

Thanks,

~Joe

[skullandbones]

Hi Joe,

I saw a completely donor build of a MKI in my area. It was the first FFR I had seen that was on the road and not in a car show. He was perfectly happy with it. I have only seen him once even though he lives just a few miles from me.

You can do a total donor build. That was my plan but the plan changed almost immediately. Now I have a mix of donor parts and new. However, it is not one donor. I "cherry picked" the donor types and parts to meet my needs. If you don't go with a complete kit then this is another way to get what you want for each area of the car. I have steadily been replacing or modifying my build to my liking such as suspension. There are pros and cons for either direction you go but if you can budget for it, the complete kit is probably a very good value. If you are a good problem solver or prone to want to tear things apart, then a donor build might be your style.

The thing about the complete donor build is that it is not going to reflect the quality that is seen in many of the present day builds. Things have changed a lot since 1995. So the concept is not as desirable as when it was first presented (IMO).

Good luck,

WEK.

[68GT500MAN]

Yes, there are several all donor builds here in central California. My MKII is one of them. The only thing in mine not from the 1991 Mustang is the engine (427w) that I stole from a Torino. I even have the 4 bolt axels and 2.73 rear axel gears.
Doug

[edwardb]

See this is your first post. Welcome to the forum! Is your definition of "donor for everything" the same as the list of parts Factory Five describes in their base kit instructions for a donor build? If so, sure, builds have been completed that way. This is the heritage of where Factory Five got started use Fox body Mustangs. Having said that, everything I've read and seen says this is getting more and more uncommon. For a number of reasons. Fox body Mustangs aren't common like they used to be, and either are worn out or have been restored or maintained to the point it doesn't make sense to tear them down and harvest donor parts. Later Mustangs can be used as donors, but there aren't as many available parts that are directly usable in the build. Second, some of the aspects of the pure Fox body donor build are less than optimal. Specific examples include the donor 4-link rear suspension, the de-powered steering rack, 4-lug wheels, drum rear brakes, just to name a few. Other possible challenges are re-using an old gas tank, wiring harness, re-purposing the instrument panel, etc. All doable (and done by many!) but not as common as it used to be. Later model Mustangs are more plentiful, but the number of parts that work well for the build are fewer.

If your reason for asking is something even more, please explain. Hope this helps.

[6t8dart]

I am getting ready to start one, using mostly donor, and since my 95 donor had a set of 18" Bullit Wheels, I plan to use them for a while. The only thing i upgraded beyond the donor is a complete chassis wiring harness from FFR. I'm using the Mustang engine and trans, rear suspension, engine and fuel injection, and transmission. I am going to isolate the fuel injection part of the electrical and keep that.

[traveler]

Thanks for all the replies.

I haven't gotten to posting an intro.....I will soon.

Perhaps a complete kit is the way to go. The only thing that REALLY has me hesitating on it all, is the body and paint.

If I had my choice, I'd prefer to have a 390 with a lumpy cam and a 4 or 5 speed.

Thanks again.

~Joe

[edwardb]

Both of my builds have been base kits and no donor. All new parts. That's a choice many of us make. Gives you the opportunity to pick what parts you want beyond the base kit, vs. the ones FFR selects for the complete kit. Nothing wrong with the complete kit, and for many is the best choice. But just wanted to clarify that starting with a base kit doesn't necessarily mean it's a donor build.

[CraigS]

The donor concept was a great way to go back in the day. But you ended up w/ a car w/ 4 lug 15x7 wheels, drum brakes, terrible steering etc. using the older than 93 mustangs. Those cars are at least 22 years old now so not much you would want to use on your new FFR. As EdwardB mentioned, the 95+ cars have less useable parts on them. For instance there is no single Mustang that was built w/ a Fox width axle w/ disc brakes and a ratio we would want. So, assuming you want 5 lugs and fox width, no matter what axle you buy, you will need to change, at the very least, the axle shafts and the caliper mounts. I think that today, the donor concept has pretty much run it's course. The cars are either too old to use, or if you find a great one that has been taken care of, too nice to hack apart. You can still do an inexpensive build, but I would get tight w/ the local mustang clubs and but parts here and there as they upgrade their cars.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Craig is not too far off on Fox based donors---they are generally getting a little long in the tooth to be used in the true "donor" sense but can still yield a lot of useable components &/or cores. Later mod motor cars ('96-'03) however can be used to create a nice roadster at a reasonable cost (Ron Everitt is the king when it comes to doing this). IMHO this has become the most cost effective way to build.

Jeff

[R Thomas]

I am going the donor route, sort of, I got a 97 Mustang for a donor for $1700 and figure on using the following parts at least initially. Engine and its wiring, Transmission, Rear Gears, Fuel Tank with stock fuel pump, Front spindles and control arms, Brakes and Radiator. Notice there are only 4 things listed that are not part what is needed for the complete kit. When I bought this car used it was in the following condition, mechanically sound except for brakes, and looked like a piece of junk. The interior looked like an 18 year old bad dream and the exterior was just as ugly. 42368 I decided early on I had no desire to strip the wiring. I plan to live with the stock 4 link rear. I replaced the brakes (pads, rotors and rear calipers) for around $500 I also replaced the rear control arms with a tubular set that has adjustable uppers for $269. Until I actually get to the kit build the 97 is registered and does duty as my pickup/parts hauler. I also plan to do the initial driving of the roadster in gelcoat.

Wheels and tires came off my 2011 Convertible which got a set of 2014 take offs for $600. So for about $3100 I have a car I can drive when needed and most of the parts I need to get a roadster on the road. There will be no jaw dropping when the hood is openned, but I'm not looking for that. I need the wiring harness and the gauge set for another $1200 and I can be enjoying a roadster. I realize for many of the guys here are building their ultimate car, more power to them. I am building a fun car that handles like a race car and flies with a heavy throttle foot. To each there own. I do have future plans for paint and upgrades including a fresh engine, but it's off down the road.

Best of luck with your build spend time thinking to clearly establish what your goals are before you commit. My son and I also took the time to attend the build school at Mott College in Michigan. The instructors have built many of these cars have a great deal of knowledge and if your one of those questioning can I build this car. That question will clearly be answered.

[traveler]

thanks again for the replies. So, a 2001 Cobra IRS isn't a bolt in?

[R Thomas]

One thing I forgot that I found very useful, for ten bucks you can get an electronic copy of any of the kit manuals. Reading Chapter 2 Donor Parts prep of the Basic manual could help you decide a lot. Best of luck on your project.

[R. Button]

Also keep in mind, when we were first building these cars, now a bit over 15 years ago, there was not the availability of new parts like there is now.
The donor was the most practical way to have all the right parts. Mine was an all donor build but now if I were building on I'd use all new parts. Much easier to find!
In many ways FFR created a market for all the new parts you can use now to build these cars with.
You can still build with donor parts just may take some work to find a good set of donor parts now.

[Bobkober]

Here is an idea that I am working through. There is a salvage yard in Georgia that actually found a donor for me which provided many parts. All the parts listed in the FFR list of parts needed. They sent the parts to me removed and ready to clean and paint. They specialize in Mustang salvage. They sent a rebuilt transmission, rear end, front and rear discs/rotors all 5 bolt, new clutch. Engine is my biggest worry now but they guarantee it for 90 days from the first start up. Cost $4000. They have been great to work with and are on the list of Donor providers from FFR so they know what we are building. I am knee deep in the wiring harness right now, we'll see how that goes. This out fit is called MPS Auto Salvage, 800-236-1156, ask for Billy. If I do it again I won't use the FFR list of parts. Too many won't be used, I will just negotiate with Billy and get the parts I need. Wish each other luck and I pray a lot . Bob

[CraigS]

An MPS pallet is a very good idea. That way you can get parts from different year mustangs but all on the same pallet. The only drawback I can see is that you need to know exactly what you want in detail and all at the same time.

[jakester888]

I started as a donor build. Then slowly replaced items that were worn out or too complicated. Examples of items replaced:

Wiring harness - went with Ron Francis & FFR engine harness.
Upper/lower intake manifolds - replaced with shiny aluminum Ford Racing Corba versions.
Water pump.
Alternator & Power Steering - blinged & chromed hot rod versions.
Axels with 5-lug rotors from Forte's.
Wheels & tires.
Brake calipers, pads.
Filler neck & grommet from Breeze
Starter & distributor
MAF + calibration
Injectors
Plugs & fuel filter

Everything else is pretty much from the donor. Which really boils down to just the engine block, tranny, suspension, steering rack, brake M/C & boost. :)

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