insurance guy 818 [Archive] - Factory Five Forums

insurance guy

05-20-2015, 08:42 PM

So the journey begins. Finally after a few delays Stewart Transport delivered my kit. It seems everyone has the same feelings watching the truck being unloaded. Neighbors come to the door and what is a quite street all of a sudden has crowds. Spent the next 4 hours checking each box. I need to do it again as many of the parts are unmarked. Have to find the part in the assembly manual to be sure it's the correct part. I am still waiting for the donor kit from Very Cool Parts, Wayne is making sure I get a good motor. I sent my deposit to iwire for a harness. No reason to rush, I think
I have Plenty to do before I need the harness. I only had one item back ordered and unless I find the 2 items I think I missed, I did pretty good.

AZPete

05-20-2015, 09:09 PM

Yup, Stewart is like Santa. Seeing it come off the truck is an image you'll treasure forever . . . well, until you have a roller . . and then when the engine starts . . and the gokart moves . .
There are lots of memorable moments interspersed with hundreds of small victories. The frustrating points will fade. Enjoy the journey.

insurance guy

05-21-2015, 09:11 PM

Day 2, still trying to see what I received and if anything is missing. Great every piece has a number, this easy. Wait a minute things don't have numbers. What the heck is this?? I have no idea. Omg, how many pieces of aluminum, I better get organized, this can get crazy real quick. Where am I going to store all this?? I don't even have the donor yet. OK let's take the fiberglass pieces off and the aluminum pieces off.
I am exhausted I just spent 45 minutes try to get this piece off the frame. I don't know how they wedged it iN.
Maybe tomorrow will be a better day.42094

TrickyPete

05-21-2015, 09:27 PM

LoL I think the exact same thoughts went through my head at that point. "What the heck does this bent piece of metal supposed to go to?!"

Bob_n_Cincy

05-21-2015, 09:35 PM

Hey insurance guy.
I've been working on this car off and on for over a year. Tonight I spent 3 hours on the car. 2 engine hatch pins installed, changed mind on tire sizes twice, and lost 6 tools.
Double autocross this weekend. Life is good
Bob

insurance guy

05-24-2015, 08:09 PM

42160

insurance guy

05-25-2015, 07:06 PM

worked on firewall and it seems to be progressing nicely. I started looking ahead. I am looking at these upper ball joints. Can some one explain to me how I put this on the upper control Arm?
I have been looking at this for 20 minutes
Does it come Apart?
I never installed a ball joint before, I cannot believe I am stuck the second day.

Hindsight

05-25-2015, 07:15 PM

It threads into the upper control arm. The manual shows a picture of it I think. It doesn't come apart.

insurance guy

05-25-2015, 07:35 PM

It threads into the upper control arm. The manual shows a picture of it I think. It doesn't come apart.

Can you look at the pi, this must be incorrect ball joint
No way for that to screw in42162

Hindsight

05-25-2015, 07:57 PM

That looks like mine. If I recall correctly, I took the blue rubber dust cover off, then screwed the balljoint into the upper housing shown in your pic. You can see the threads on the balljoint itself and the threads inside the housing. Once it's screwed in, you put the blue dust cover back on. Put some blue loctite on the threads of that before screwing in. I used a big plumbers wrench to grip and turn the balljoint in.

See mine here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15217-Hindsight-s-build-thread&p=179718&viewfull=1#post179718

insurance guy

05-25-2015, 08:07 PM

Thanks
I thought the dust cover was sealed somehow.

insurance guy

05-25-2015, 08:21 PM

thanks so much
I was able to get them off. Appreciate the assistance. Figure I will freeze the ball joint and heat the other piece.

insurance guy

05-26-2015, 11:40 AM

end of week one
thanks for the help42179421804218142182

David Hodgkins

05-26-2015, 11:44 AM

I've upgraded your account so you can put pics in an album (1900x1900 / 2 mb max) and post images directly to your posts. You can also edit your profile and add a signature.

Congrats on starting your 818!

:)

insurance guy

05-31-2015, 07:23 PM

End of Week Two
I put the ball joints in the freezer, heated the upper control arm for about five minutes with a heat gun. I made sure the ball joint grease fitting and the control arm fittings all pointed up. It was really easy, I heard it was difficult. The second one did not go so well. I probably did not heat it long enough. Three quarters of the way it stopped. I put it in a vise and omg, it took me about 3/4 of an hour to finally seat the ball joint. Success. Short Lived. When I attached the upper control arms I noticed that the weld was correct on the first one , not so the second. Was it upside down? I never checked. I had to remove the ball joint. If you think putting it on is difficult, try taking it off. I am no youngster, my arm strength is not what it used to be. one hour later dripping in sweat, I had removed the ball joint. It was fine, I was not. I spent the next day suffering from muscles that my body forgot it had.
The second go around was a snap, control arm in correct position, ball joint frozen and heat the control arm for 7 minutes. It went right on ( I did burn myself)
I primed and painted the front firewall , drilled all the holes and put it in place with clecos. I am waiting to paint the one piece that needs to be dimpled. My donor kit has not arrived yet so I have no donor parts. Word from Wayne tonight , the kit is packed and ready for shipment.
I have a Eastwood powder coating gun and toaster oven. I am powder coating all the parts that fit in the oven. My powder coating technique gets better and better with each batch. Everything will be Black, satin finish if I can. The Floor I painted with the 3m rubberized undercoating. I like the finish ( hate the smell). I need to drill the holes and rivet it in place. Based on my history I will not rivet a piece in place until I am absolutely, 200% sure it is correctly where it goes and nothing goes behind it.
Every piece of aluminum gets deburred, sanded with 500 grit, etch primer and satin finish paint. I purchased a few cans of Eastwood 2k paint, I will try that. I am waiting till I have a few pieces to paint as it has a shelf life.
Great Kit so far, I read all the build threads. I will answer if I can provide value. All the builds look spectacular.42355423564235742358423594236042361423 624236342364

insurance guy

06-06-2015, 08:53 PM

Would anyone know the spec for the 10 inch bolt that spans the two rear control arms and where I can obtain it?
It was frozen the hammer I was using was not looking and it crushed the threads. I did forgive the hammer for the error. I will need a replacement

Wayne's donor kit came, he has it down to an art how he packs that crate. I am not used to parts with no northern salt corrosion and deterioration. PBblaster and an impact wrench makes the deconstruction easier than expected. I will post weekly pics and update tomorrow

insurance guy

07-15-2015, 08:07 PM

would anyone have pics on installing wagon seat belts?

Tamra

07-15-2015, 09:22 PM

I'm not much help since we installed harnesses, but here are a couple of threads that seemed like they might help:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15075-Seat-belt-anchor-points

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16599-Wagon-Belts-and-Child-Seat-Mode

insurance guy

07-16-2015, 02:16 PM

perfect
exactly what I was seeking
tried to find that in search

thanks so much

Tamra

07-16-2015, 02:18 PM

You're welcome! Any updated pics of your build? How's it going?

insurance guy

07-16-2015, 08:36 PM

I will update my thread with pics this weekend
Not being a car guy this is quite a challange. I have to learn something as simple as putting a coilover shock together. Searching for the correct part is time consuming. I received extras on some parts and parts that are not even from my kit. Ffr has-been terrific in helping.
Wayne from vcp is my Omg I need help guy. Glad he is a nice guy.
My harness is out to Brian at iwire
I was amazed that I was able to put motor and trans in by myself.
Tons of pics this weekend
Thanks

insurance guy

07-19-2015, 07:56 PM

I installed radiator
Can someone please send me pics of lower radiator outlet with hose installed.
I am not sure if there is clearance with steering boot and linkage.
If I install hose
It touches

insurance guy

07-19-2015, 08:01 PM

43675
Pic attached

RM1SepEx

07-19-2015, 08:18 PM

What is your serial #? You have to put about 1/2 to 3/4 spacers on the pins for the radiator to give yourself clearance

insurance guy

07-19-2015, 08:31 PM

Number 343
That would mean spacers on the top mount and longer button head screws. Currently using 3/4 inch.
The top mounts would need to be removed as they barely fit now
thamks

RM1SepEx

07-19-2015, 09:15 PM

yes the top needs to be done differently too, I used 3/4 spacers and longer bolts. Craig (Mechie3) has some nice aluminum pieces for the radiator.

The problem is that the interference was identified on the first kit! I have number 17... I expected such issues... but not fixing it for over 300 kits! UGH

STiPWRD

07-19-2015, 10:37 PM

I installed radiator
Can someone please send me pics of lower radiator outlet with hose installed.
I am not sure if there is clearance with steering boot and linkage.
If I install hose
It touches
Rori made some sweet spacers to raise the radiator so the hose clears the steering rack. They work great but I'm not sure if he's still selling them:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13643-RoRi-s-Custom-Parts-Feeler-Thread&p=148797&viewfull=1#post148797

insurance guy

07-20-2015, 01:00 PM

The issues I am having with the assembly manual and updates are not deterring me from enjoying the build. I have experienced similar issues with an Electric Auto conversion kit and a cedar strip canoe kit. The techwriters seem to be way behind threads and fixes. Probably the best techwriter I ever saw was a fellow named Eric Kriss fellow not only produces the most beautiful builds his detailed assembly manual is unsurpassed.
I will try to send more updates and photos.
The build is going somewhat incident free as I jump from one part of the build to another. I found a company less than one mile from my office that powdercoats at a really low cost. I wish I found him before I finished the firewall. I also was lucky enough to find a Subaru Performance shop close by that will be able to help me with engine issues. I had him change all the wheel bearing from the donor.
The biggest mistake I made was when I converted the transmission. I put the FFR plate on and forgot to use FFR bolts. You cannot use the old transmission end bolts, they are too long and will crack your transmission case. Luckily it was not too bad and JB WELD was the fix.
I will attach over the next few posts all my current pics to get you up to date.
and I am hoping to write a daily post.
I attached the radiator the previous post shows that result. I am working on the seats. I am planning on removing the donor seat covers , having them cleaned and seeing if I can put them back together, The Ken Gilbert site gave me all the info I need to try and make that happen. Let the pictures begin436904369143692436934369443695436964369743698 43699

Mechie3

07-20-2015, 01:31 PM

These are the radiator mounts that I make if you can't get your OEM ones to workout after spacing the radiator upwards.

http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/products/radiator-supports/

--Craig

insurance guy

07-21-2015, 03:28 PM

not all my pics are loading
I think they are to large
I disassembled the donor seats and attached them to the supplied ffr mounts. I cleaned the drivers seat
not sure if I want to install them or beg my wife to let me purchase new seats. I had my eye on the Corbeau GTS need to see if they fit.
43724

I will try to upload balance of the pictures.

I am having issues with the pedal. I think the ffr supplied back is bent incorrectly. It does not line up as manual notes, but I am just using the manual as a guide.
43725
here is the rest of the pics437264372743728437294373043731437264373343734

RM1SepEx

07-21-2015, 05:07 PM

Trash their pedal bracket. I bolted the pedal directly to the firewall and added a 1x2 x 1/8 angle bracket to stiffen it. works great, many have done that to their cable operated 02-05 setup

insurance guy

07-21-2015, 07:42 PM

Thanks
Can you send a pic of your set up

RM1SepEx

07-22-2015, 06:08 AM

Here goes... put the pedal up vs the firewall so the cable hole lines up with the cable, I riveted the AL angle to the frame tube and drilled the holes for the pedal through it and the firewall and bolted it all together...

43752 43751

Make sure that the pivot has a wee clearance from the angle so it doesn't rub/bind

insurance guy

07-22-2015, 07:44 AM

thanks I will try that.

I cleaned and managed to mock up the donor drivers seat. I will live with it right now. I will do the same for the passenger seat.
I was able to find rubber bumpers to raise the radiator the 1/2 I needed to clear the steering link.
fit terrific
4375343754437554375643757437584375943760

insurance guy

07-23-2015, 10:00 AM

I was able to complete right side cooling pipes.
I will leave it not attached to the frame until I get the brake lines installed.
What I thought was going to be a snap turned out a frustrating hour as the clamps were interfering with the frame at the corner. Once I turned the clamps it became easy. The guide calls for the "thicker" small hose to be placed on pipe end. I was unable to get that one on and ended up using the thinner tube insert. It appears like it will be fine.
I will find out when I fill with coolant.43792437934379443795

insurance guy

07-24-2015, 08:49 PM

My frustration mounts each day. I am trying to put the cooling system in place. The thicker insert is supposed to go over waterpump outlet. I think it's impossible. did anyone get it on?
How?
Please

Tamra

07-25-2015, 10:46 AM

insurance guy

07-25-2015, 08:56 PM

I don't think we put any insert in. It shouldn't be needed, since you're using a Subaru hose that goes there. That's our memory of it at least!

Your build looks like it is going great! Just be careful when you go to install your battery - if it touches the corrugated hoses it will blow holes in them... speaking from experience! We managed to do that while just wiggling the hoses around while trying to burp the system.

Thanks very much
I have plenty of experience with high voltage, I have done 2 all electric conversions. So much easier than this kit.
Working on brake lines, purchase a roll if 9 Guage wire to make mock ups of bends. Coping them to actual brake lines is not as easy as I thought it would be. Can someone please let me know where I find instructions for running accellerator cable from firewall to rear. Or send pics.
My tires hit firewall when I turn wheel to max. I see this is a common problem. Is there a fix?
I don't just want to go forward and reverse.

mikeb75

07-26-2015, 06:52 AM

My frustration mounts each day. I am trying to put the cooling system in place. The thicker insert is supposed to go over waterpump outlet. I think it's impossible. did anyone get it on?
How?
Please

Dish soap & heat. :) Heat up the rubber insert then put a bit of Dawn (or whatever you have handy... or glycerin would work also I think) around the inside.

I can confirm that the thinner inserts described in the assembly manual are not needed on latter chassis numbers; I'm pretty sure FFR changed the size of the tubing a while ago in the kit but didn't update the manual.

STiPWRD

07-27-2015, 07:47 AM

Can someone please let me know where I find instructions for running accellerator cable from firewall to rear. Or send pics.
Here's my throttle cable routing. It comes through the front firewall through the pre-drilled hole then I routed it back through the front firewall and under the tunnel. Then it comes up over the gas tank and connects to the engine. I have a rear firewall b/w engine and gas tank that is not supplied by FFR. Make sure you drill the rear hole high enough so there isn't a large bend and enough cable length.
43958

Tamra

07-27-2015, 07:54 AM

What size wheels and tires are you currently using? Rubbing has been a big problem for the 818 unless you use specific sizes. 215/40/17 is the tire size recommended by FFR, and it barely fits. The wheel width and offset also will impact it.

insurance guy

07-27-2015, 03:44 PM

4396443965
What size wheels and tires are you currently using? Rubbing has been a big problem for the 818 unless you use specific sizes. 215/40/17 is the tire size recommended by FFR, and it barely fits. The wheel width and offset also will impact it.

the tires currently on the car are the donor's , I quite honestly don't even know. I have a set of the FFR rims , I know they are larger then current so I will have to deal with this issue.
here are the rubbing pics.

I spent the weekend working on the brake lines. Got them all completed and decided I did not like the way they looked so I ripped them out. I am practicing bending lines until I like my results.
I am really looking for perfection and that is impossible.
4396643967439684396943970439714397243973

STiPWRD

07-27-2015, 04:00 PM

insurance guy

07-30-2015, 06:55 AM

I'd suggest picking up some copper nickel brake line, it is a lot easier to work with, can be cut to length, won't rust and allows you to go with metric brake fittings instead of using those SAE to metric adapters. This will however require a brake flaring tool and metric brake fittings.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-325-3-16-Copper-Nickel-Brake-Line-Easy-Bend-Easy-Flare-25Ft-Roll-/181278873426?hash=item2a35101752&vxp=mtr
http://store.fedhillusa.com/22nutpack.aspx

I started the front brake system and noticed a large gap under my master cylinder. I had to stop the brake lines and remove the master cylinder because I left off the cover plate. 2 steps forward , 1 1/2 steps back. need to powder coat it and reinstall master cylinder. Liked another posters idea of using 90 degree hose as rear transition for the cooling tubes. 4402044021440224402344024

insurance guy

08-02-2015, 08:23 AM

finished the cooling tubes, I like the way it looks with the 90 degree bend in the rear. I secured the front flex tubes to the frame away from potential contact with battery ( thanks Tamra). I completed the brake and clutch lines, but I am still not happy with the way the lines run and bend in the rear. I will be changing that. I attached the gas pedal direct to the front firewall using part of the supplied ffr brace . I tried to line it up as best I can with the predrilled hole. it is off and
will probably drill my own hole that lines up more centered with the pedal. Anyone feel that will be an issue?
44111441124411344114441154411644117

insurance guy

08-02-2015, 08:28 AM

I purchased Marson RN-1 rivnut setter. It was less than $100.00 with different size mandrels. Having the ability to remove a piece and replace it seems to me a better option than the rivet.

Hindsight

08-02-2015, 08:35 AM

Looking good. A good riv-nut tool is WELL worth the price. I've used mine a lot already and mostly for modifications on things I've added that didn't come with the kit.

cmcintyre

08-02-2015, 10:57 AM

insurance guy

08-02-2015, 01:23 PM

I am using the ffr lines
I believe they meet nj regs
I have been through the nj licensing on an electric conversion, it's the same process.
You need to make sure everything is secure and nothing hanging.
They are nuts for leaks and lights

STiPWRD

08-03-2015, 07:41 AM

Just an aside. If you will be putting it on the road, you might check your state requirements on brake lines. Here in CT, they specify steel. I had started down the copper nickel route until advised otherwise. If you already checked your state out well, never mind and keep having fun with the build!
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I haven't seen any laws in VA on steel brake lines so I'm thinking I'll be OK.

insurance guy

08-04-2015, 06:15 AM

throttle cable attached to pedal through front firewall. will hold off securing it until I have the firewall and wiring done. My harness is at I-wire, still about six weeks out.4417144172

wallace18

08-04-2015, 06:48 AM

Looking good. You may want to check your clearance on the brake master cyl. top line. That area is crucial in the fitting of the windshield fiberglass cowl. In my experience this has to be just right for it to work. You may be OK but it is worth a check IMO. Keep up the good work!

insurance guy

08-04-2015, 10:31 AM

insurance guy

08-05-2015, 08:25 AM

wallace18

08-05-2015, 10:37 AM

finished the clutch lines
Does anyone know where to route the overflow from the radiator cap? There is another line on the other end of the radiator that I ran to the expansion tank on top of the engine. This looks like I can cap it off.44202442034420444205

It originally went to the overflow tank. The tank on top of the engine is the degas tank. Make sure you did the VCP coolant mod. see threads.

insurance guy

08-05-2015, 11:28 AM

It originally went to the overflow tank. The tank on top of the engine is the degas tank. Make sure you did the VCP coolant mod. see threads.

thanks
planning on doing the mod.
I already have one line from radiator to the degas tank, can I cap this one?

insurance guy

08-09-2015, 08:43 AM

been working on fuel lines and finishing brake lines. I am stumped on how most of you were able to attach the proportion valve to the frame.
I was unable to maneuver under the frame so I just attached it to the side with a small bracket.
4427644277442784427944280

wallace18

08-09-2015, 10:50 AM

thanks
planning on doing the mod.
I already have one line from radiator to the degas tank, can I cap this one?

I capped the line on the passenger side of the radiator on mine. I then ran the VCP coolant mod hose to the degas tank.

insurance guy

08-09-2015, 01:05 PM

I capped the line on the passenger side of the radiator on mine. I then ran the VCP coolant mod hose to the degas tank.

There are 2 overflow at radiator. What did you do with second one?

insurance guy

08-09-2015, 07:33 PM

Bob_n_Cincy

08-10-2015, 01:54 AM

need as much help as there is to offer. I thought I was done with the brake and clutch lines until I pumped the system with air and put soapy water at each connections. Quite a bubble bath.
depressing to say the least. I guess I am not as good as flaring brake lines as I thought.
pulled off all the lines and will start from scratch. I guess I will try to make all bends and connections with as long of lines that I can fine with flared ends.

I to went through the leaky brake line phase.
Tried 2 or 3 cheap flaring tools. Same results.
Bought an Eastwood
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

Two 818 with abs. About I'm 32 for 32 flares.
Bob

insurance guy

08-10-2015, 01:56 PM

I to went through the leaky brake line phase.
Tried 2 or 3 cheap flaring tools. Same results.
Bought an Eastwood
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

Two 818 with abs. About I'm 32 for 32 flares.
Bob

thanks
I purchased the tool, I am hoping my wife does not read the forum. I thought I was the only one with leaky lines. I never see any of these issues on other build threads. I guess they only show the good. I like seeing the good and bad.

RM1SepEx

08-10-2015, 06:10 PM

Read the old threads, almost everyone has a problem using the old style double bar flare tool, I wasted many pieces of brakeline... and with my early kit they didn't even send the correct lengths so that you had to cut them. I gave them a list of the exact lengths req. in September of 2013!

insurance guy

08-13-2015, 09:59 AM

work continues while I await the new brake flaring tool from Eastwood. I got lucky as it went on sale right after I purchased it and they honored the sale price.
Fuel Filter and water overflow tank installed. Placing and trying to figure out shifter placement. I had all aluminum pieces powder coated so things are really tight and need to be filed to fit.4438844389443904439144392

insurance guy

08-18-2015, 08:17 AM

As I am awaiting replacement brake hardware to repair the errors I made, I was able to move ahead with a few other items. I installed degas tank and secured radiator. Ran fuel lines. Trying to get correct shifter location and install transmission tunnel. Looks like that needs to be adjusted with grinder.445274452844529445304453144532

insurance guy

08-19-2015, 06:55 AM

finally I have some success
I used a electric shear and removed the bend on the transmission tunnel that was not allowing it to seat properly. I thought I would have to really hack it up.
secured shifter4455144552445534455444555

Mechie3

08-19-2015, 08:19 AM

I needed to trim lots of things on my center tunnel sheet metal, mostly the little tabs that hang down.

wleehendrick

08-19-2015, 10:29 AM

I needed to trim lots of things on my center tunnel sheet metal, mostly the little tabs that hang down.

Ditto! But I just ended cutting the top of mine off, since I have a k-tuned shifter and Lokar ebrake handle. I riveted the sides in, but the top pieces will be removable.

insurance guy

08-19-2015, 11:15 AM

Ditto! But I just ended cutting the top of mine off, since I have a k-tuned shifter and Lokar ebrake handle. I riveted the sides in, but the top pieces will be removable.

did you rivet through the floor? I really hate to put more holes down there

wleehendrick

08-19-2015, 12:52 PM

did you rivet through the floor? I really hate to put more holes down there

Yes, I did. I make a habit of putting a dab of silicone on each rivet, but I'm not too concerned about water intrusion, as my 818 will have no roof and be fair weather only (SoCal).

Bob_n_Cincy

08-19-2015, 01:49 PM

Yes, I did. I make a habit of putting a dab of silicone on each rivet, but I'm not too concerned about water intrusion, as my 818 will have no roof and be fair weather only (SoCal).

Interesting,
Here in Ohio, during the spring and fall I expect to get caught out in the rain about once per week. I'm adding drain holes in the floor.
Bob

flynntuna

08-19-2015, 02:20 PM

It never rains in Southern California :cool. Lol

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrBT7w21tRVtGUAyzfBGOd_;_ylu=X3oDMTEyY29scGE xBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjA3NzlfMQRzZWMDc3I-/RV=2/RE=1440040631/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.youtube.com%2fwatch%3fv%3d-pyC7WnvLT4/RK=0/RS=OWyr7HSB16Ux74iBoMgnRFtYbdc-

matteo92065

08-19-2015, 02:25 PM

flynntuna

08-19-2015, 02:41 PM

I'm cursed with remembering insignificant trivia.

insurance guy

08-19-2015, 02:46 PM

I'm cursed with remembering insignificant trivia.

MEANWHILE
the lack of water is causing the deep drilling of water wells causing the underground aquifer to collapse. Some places are sinking at 1 foot per year.

wleehendrick

08-19-2015, 02:58 PM

It never rains in Southern California :cool. Lol

:D Well, let's hope the El Nino does come this winter... we need water!

I think I can get away with not weather-proofing my 818, as our rain patterns are pretty predictable. As long as the Quattro's not in the shop :( during rainy season, I'll be OK!

Anyway, sorry for the hi-jack, back to insurance guy's build...

insurance guy

08-21-2015, 02:02 PM

:D Well, let's hope the El Nino does come this winter... we need water!

I think I can get away with not weather-proofing my 818, as our rain patterns are pretty predictable. As long as the Quattro's not in the shop :( during rainy season, I'll be OK!

Anyway, sorry for the hi-jack, back to insurance guy's build...

I am attaching transmission linkage, the shaft moves in and out I cannot seem to get it to rotate.
any thoughts?
I hope I am explain it correctly

STiPWRD

08-21-2015, 02:12 PM

The shaft on the back of the trans should rotate freely but with some spring force to pull it back to middle position.
1. Did you try changing gears in the donor? Did it work then?
2. How are you moving the shaft? Using the FFR shifter and cables? Try rotating the shaft by putting a screw driver through the hole in the shaft and twisting it.

Mechie3

08-21-2015, 02:21 PM

There's three in/out positions. In, nuetral, out. It can be difficult to pull it by hand and get it to the middle position as it likes to jump all the way in or out. It only rotates in the middle.

insurance guy

08-21-2015, 02:26 PM

There's three in/out positions. In, nuetral, out. It can be difficult to pull it by hand and get it to the middle position as it likes to jump all the way in or out. It only rotates in the middle.

thats exactly what I needed to know. I purchased the engine and trans from Wayne at VCP. I had him change clutch for me, so I am confident he checked the working of the linkage.
I am able to move it in and out. I will work carefully and look for neutral.
Thanks guys

insurance guy

08-21-2015, 02:30 PM

I attached cables to linkage and ran to rear of car. I was also able to grind/adjust firewall so it fits nice and tight.44645446464464744648

wleehendrick

08-21-2015, 06:01 PM

There's three in/out positions. In, nuetral, out. It can be difficult to pull it by hand and get it to the middle position as it likes to jump all the way in or out. It only rotates in the middle.

I bet that's the issue. I had trouble adjusting my shifter until I got the hang of pulling just hard enough on the shaft to hit neutral. But I got good enough at it to be able to move the car as a roller (with no bydraulics) with my wife steering, and popping it to neutral to push it around, and into gear to keep it from rolling over me!

insurance guy

08-21-2015, 09:02 PM

I bet that's the issue. I had trouble adjusting my shifter until I got the hang of pulling just hard enough on the shaft to hit neutral. But I got good enough at it to be able to move the car as a roller (with no bydraulics) with my wife steering, and popping it to neutral to push it around, and into gear to keep it from rolling over me!

I was able to move it sideways, not much though. Adjusting this seems to be lots of work.
Anyone have any hints?

insurance guy

08-22-2015, 03:05 PM

I was able to move it sideways, not much though. Adjusting this seems to be lots of work.
Anyone have any hints?

Somedays are just better than others. Attached linkage and was able to get in into all gears
No clutch
Needs some adjusting but it was a good session
Thanks all

insurance guy

08-24-2015, 07:46 AM

I was able to install the transmission tunnel with minor grinding, same for the rear firewall. I am securing it with rivnuts to make it removable. I dont like the rivnut on the floor so I will be removing them and using flange bolts. The transmission linkage was one of the easier operations and I was able to get through all the gears. I will have some adjusting to do but it is nice to have some success. The cat assembly was a different story. the bolt pattern was off of the down tube connector and had to enlarge one of the holes. It fit fine after that. After securing the catalytic converter pipe it really appears to be at a strange orientation. The pictures in the "guide" appear different. I need to take off the rusted on old tailpipe before getting the ffr one on.
progress continues. I am looking for seats as I really hate to put the donor ones in. heavy, and the wrong color. Looking for options.4469344694446954469644697446984469944700

insurance guy

08-27-2015, 09:13 PM

Can someone please post some pics how they attached accel cable to motor throttle mechanism
All I have is cable and recently received ball cable end
Thanks

insurance guy

08-30-2015, 07:41 AM

I have begun work on the e brake. the set up ffr shows re449794498044981449824498344984449854498644987449 88ally is difficult and I am having binding issues with the linkage. My first placement was to close to the linkage and was unable to engage brake. After second placement ( I hate unused holes ) I figured I needed to fabricate my own mount for the cables.
I will show completed pics ( if it works)

insurance guy

08-31-2015, 07:58 AM

I spent the entire weekend dealing with the e brake. I followed the ffr manual and the connection was really hanging up on the cover that the e brake was attached to. If I moved the e brake all the way back as the manual suggests, there was not enough tension to have the brake engage. I wanted there to be all the adjustment for the brakes themselves. I fabricated a mount for the clip and now have to cut space for the ferrule connector not to hit the cover. I would like to see what everyone else did to compensate for the linkage hitting the cover. I searched the threa4501945020450214502245023ds and there really does not appear to be much. so I guess everyone had no issues.

insurance guy

09-06-2015, 08:45 AM

I really am not sure why they don't tell you to attach the aluminum splash piece before you attach the brake lines. It would have been easier to rivet it in without the steering linkage and master cylinder in the way. After removing the brake line I secure the 2 splash plates. I was able to bleed the clutch and brakes. I have the Motive brake bleeder. It created quite a mess as the cap popped off the clutch reservoir at 12 pounds of pressure. Spent the better part of the day cleaning up the mess. when one thing goes wrong , I should expect a few more. After the clean up I was bleeding the brakes and of course I knocked over my brake fluid jar. More brake fluid all over the place. I surprised myself at how easy the bleeding is with the motive bleeder. ( if you don't spill it or make sure cap is secure)
I also was able to cut off the tailpipe from the cat and secured the ffr one.
My next big challenge is the wiring. I am on the iwire list.
451244512545126

insurance guy

09-06-2015, 07:46 PM

Can someone post or sender pic of accelerator cable attached to motor throttle mechanism.
I cannot figure it out
Thank you

NBinSD

09-06-2015, 09:52 PM

Here's my throttle cable connection

45134

insurance guy

09-07-2015, 05:04 AM

Can you send a pic of ball stud connection please

insurance guy

09-08-2015, 06:51 AM

mocked up all the aluminum so I can understand the placement and predrill all the location holes. I decided to mount all the body aluminum pieces with screws so I can remove them to get access is I ever needed it. I am running out of things to do while I wait for the harness from iwire.
I am trying to determine the way to attach the accelerator cable to the throttle plate, the stud ball connector received from ffr does not seem to fit.
I purchased sound deadening material and started placing it throughout the cockpit.452074520845209452104521145212452134521445 21545216

RM1SepEx

09-08-2015, 07:02 AM

The barrel end fits into the throttle body end, ther ball end with plastic cup is for the throttle pedal end

insurance guy

09-08-2015, 01:51 PM

so I just realized that you have a different accelerator cable than I have
FFR is not shipping one with a barrel end. ( at least I think not)
Mine has nothing on the end and they sent this ball stud connector and no directions
45225

Bob_n_Cincy

09-08-2015, 02:49 PM

insurance guy

09-08-2015, 02:53 PM

nope
its for the barrel end ( no barrel)
I am awaiting a pic or response from vinny at ffr
no way this fits.
does anyone know if a barrel end can be put on the end of a cable ( easily)?

RM1SepEx

09-08-2015, 03:59 PM

I've seen cables that have a ball and a barrel adapter, the ball nests in the barrel

insurance guy

09-09-2015, 07:19 AM

I have attached the barrel adapter to the cable , now I have to find a way to attach the ball stud.45252

STiPWRD

09-09-2015, 08:56 AM

I have attached the barrel adapter to the cable , now I have to find a way to attach the ball stud.45252
That's not the piece that goes on the throttle body end, I've never seen that piece before. It's supposed to look like this:
45256
The end of the throttle cable the goes to the pedal looks like this:
45257

insurance guy

09-09-2015, 09:09 AM

My throttle cable came with the correct pedal end and nothing on the other end.
I have messages out to ffr awaiting their response.
thanks

insurance guy

09-16-2015, 08:27 PM

I have reached a point where I cannot proceed until I do my wiring. I am scheduled to get My harness in the next week or so from iwire. I cannot wait. If you did not know it already the people at Factory Five are absolutely fantastic. Every issue that I have had they have addressed and resolved completely and quickly to my satisfaction. Rarely to you get such customer service from a company.
I will make a point to tell them and their bosses.
Very happy with factory five.
Vinny sent me the end of my accelerator cable I just spent 90 minutes trying to fish a dropped screw from the piece from the place that nothing reaches in the engine.
Finally getting it, I made sure to put a mat under my work site to prevent that from happening again.
Thanks again to the guys at ffr

insurance guy

09-27-2015, 07:41 AM

460094601046011460124601346014the project has stalled waiting for my wire harness from IWIRE. I might get the completed harness later this week. I am busy do all the little things. I drilled the hole for the VCP cooling fix. I have a tap but my handle is not long enough to reach the hole. One is in the mail. New tires arrived and I had them mounted on the FFR rims. Been putting sound deadening insulation throughout the chassis.

insurance guy

10-02-2015, 03:04 PM

tapped the thread and installed the fitting. Attached the engine ground.
Received the iwire harness and new seats. Now I can get this to the gokart stage at last.
The engine has been sitting idle for 6 months. Any suggestions on any precautions to take before starting the motor??46222462234622446225462264622746222

Hindsight

10-02-2015, 03:12 PM

STiPWRD

10-02-2015, 03:23 PM

Make sure it has oil in it (fresh) obviously. Transmission too, of course. Fresh gas.

Remove all four spark plugs to reduce bearing load. Crank until you get oil pressure. If you don't have a gauge, you can buy a mechanical one for like $15 at a local parts store or Amazon. Uses a 1/8" NPT fitting that you should be able to screw into the OEM oil pressure sensor location.
What he said ^^^. If you don't want to buy a gauge, remove your spark plugs and remove the oil filter. Crank the engine over until you see oil coming out of the oil cooler (where oil filter would be). Put the oil filter back on and crank the engine over some more then install the spark plugs and start it up. This is the quick way but I'd suggest getting a real oil pressure gauge though.

Bob_n_Cincy

10-02-2015, 03:23 PM

46226

What hose are you using? I had problems finding clear hose for radiator stuff.
Bob

insurance guy

10-02-2015, 03:35 PM

What hose are you using? I had problems finding clear hose for radiator stuff.
Bob

for some unknown reason I have surgical tubing that is the perfect size.
I am not sure if it will work but will give it a try.
Thanks for the Starting information

Hindsight

10-02-2015, 04:14 PM

If the surgical tubing doesn't work, you can get clear silicone tubing on eBay by the foot. I have some on mine.

insurance guy

10-03-2015, 01:06 PM

come home yesterday to boxes of long awaited parts.
My new Corbeau seats and my IWIRE harness.
I started right away with the wiring harness. I had purchased the donor from Wayne at VCP so I had no idea where any of the plugs came from. The harness is beautiful. I laid it out as per the instructions and I am amazed at how quick it was. I will take my time securing the harness but it is essentially done.
I am in need of some help from the forum.
I have no idea where these get connected to
this is under the dash
46273
this is from the rear
46274
then there is this yellow wire from the steering column
do I need this?46275
I have these connections with no plugs.
I am assuming they will not be needed.
this is under the steering column
46276
this is by the firewall brake pedal
46277
helping me decipher what I am looking at is most appreciated.
If you are only thinking of getting an IWIRE harness,
it is worth every penny.
fantastic job

STiPWRD

10-03-2015, 04:02 PM

Pic 1: OBD2 connector and reflash related connectors
Pic 2: rear O2 sensor
Pic 3: not sure but looks like airbag system related. Hard to tell from the photo but is the connector itself yellow?
Pic 4: not sure, probably plugs under the steering column for blinkers
Pic 5: brake pedal switch or clutch interlock switch

Hindsight

10-03-2015, 04:12 PM

5 is the clutch pedal switch. There are two; one shows it up, one shows it down. I believe one is for interlock, as STiPWRD stated (starter interlock), the other is for cruise control.

4 Looks like the key antenna, maybe. Do the wires for it go to a small white thing on top of the key cylinder/?

insurance guy

10-05-2015, 07:48 PM

thanks for help
started installing iwire harness
Brian has been helping me tweek the install
here is preliminary video of the layout. I will be redoing the wiring for permanent install.
https://youtu.be/D_KYXX2t0Vs
can someone please identify item on 4637746378top of intercooler. where does this get attached to and where does the end of tube go?
the second pic
what is tube by blue tape?
thanks

Hindsight

10-05-2015, 08:21 PM

The item on top of the intercooler looks like the boost control solenoid (can't say for sure because my 2007 looked different), but this is how they hook up:
http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/scooby/cobb1.jpg
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads/Knowledge/3_port_solenoid_system.jpg

The barb with the blue tape is just a vacuum barb. I believe originally it is used to supply vacuum to the brake booster. You can cap it off now, or use it for anything you need vacuum for. I'm using it on mine for my blow-off valve.

insurance guy

10-05-2015, 08:28 PM

Perfect
With everyone's help, I have identified every part
First start is very close

insurance guy

10-12-2015, 09:22 AM

I spent the weekend fabricating mount for the Corbeau seats that I purchased.
I am amazed at how little room there is to mount the seat. I fabricated the mount so I can easily remove from the bottom of the car.
The wiring computer from IWIRE fit perfectly in the space meant for the side seatbelt465674656846569465704657146572465734657446 575
All that is left is getting a battery and I will be ready for first start.

insurance guy

10-17-2015, 02:13 PM

help needed
I finished my iwire harness installation
attached my battery
put in some gas and
nothing
I did hear the fuel pump cycle
I did have lights on my dash
but when I turned the key
nothing
I depressed clutch thinking that needs to be done
still nothing
I have voltage to starter motor
I am not a car guy and look to the forum for some guidance
any thought is most appreciated.

RM1SepEx

10-17-2015, 02:28 PM

you have both clutch interlock plugs attached?

insurance guy

10-17-2015, 03:13 PM

IT STARTED
thanks to everyone
I will post a first start video later
the problem was clutch switch
it was not being engaged mechanically.
I pushed it in and it STARTED
WOW

Hindsight

10-17-2015, 04:19 PM

Congrats on the first start!

10-17-2015, 07:12 PM

Can't wait for your video

insurance guy

10-18-2015, 10:40 AM

https://youtu.be/KBf2-J9esTA
first start
couple of issues
when I depress the clutch the switch is not being depressed. I might be missing a piece.
Oil leak on driver side right where back of timing cover meets. I am hoping its only a valve cover gasket
need to get long boards so I can get off my driveway.

insurance guy

10-18-2015, 06:23 PM

Seems like all I do is ask you guys ( and girls) for help. The engine leaks oil. I am not sure if it's cam seal or just a valve cover.
I am thinking I will have to remove the motor to have it repaired if it's cam seal.
Do I attempt to do it myself? Or
Bring it to local high priced subaru performance shop?
How difficult is it and experienced do I need to be?

K3LAG

10-18-2015, 08:22 PM

I thought I had a cam seal leaking and it turned out to be something much more simple. It turned out there is a plug in one of the oil galleys near the upper cam on the drivers side. My plug was loose. Easy fix. Check for the easy stuff before you start tearing stuff apart.

Larry

mikeb75

10-19-2015, 06:55 AM

1st: congrats on start. For a "not a car guy" you're doing great and making fast progress!

On the clutch switch issue: I bypassed it by jumpering across the connector with a short piece of wire; a possibility if you are comfortable without that safety check. Otherwise; I believe there are 2 switches on the clutch; 1 for the start interlock, the other is for the cruise-control cut-out. Verify you don't have them backwards. The clutch interlock button needs to be depressed when the clutch is closed and open (lengthened) when the clutch pedal is pushed in.

On the oil leak issue, like K3LAG said, look around carefully. If it's a seep at the valve cover, it's a simple fix, just a few fasteners and a new gasket kit (pretty cheap on ebay for example).

STiPWRD

10-19-2015, 08:16 AM

As Mike mentioned, there's a button at the top of the clutch pedal that's supposed to get pushed when you press the clutch. That button is mounted with a threaded sleeve that you can adjust up and down so the tab on the pedal presses the button. My 818 also did not crank initially until I adjusted that button.

If the oil leak is from the cam seal or valve cover seal, either of those can be replaced with the engine still in the frame. You'll have to figure out where the leak is coming from first. Congrats on the first start!

brian b 36

10-19-2015, 02:46 PM

also chk the cam covers there is a special sealent you need to you need to use my 03 leaked there on rh side

insurance guy

10-19-2015, 09:50 PM

mikeb75

10-20-2015, 06:35 AM

When I replaced my valve cover gasket, new bolts (with rubber washers) came with the kit; so I replaced the old ones & didn't have to worry about order/placement. Don't remember the tightening order; pretty sure I looked it up on internet/NASIOC.

I did not use sealant on the valve cover gasket, also I did not touch or replace the half moon seals. For me this has been OK, I think have a fresh & new gasket worked out in my favor; no leaks. YMMV!

STiPWRD

10-20-2015, 02:14 PM

I started taking the valve covers off, seems like an easy fix
Until I dropped the carefully kept order of bolts.
Would anyone have correct size placement of the 8 bolts.
I know there is a tightening order
There are also small black half moon seals that need to be replaced. Is there a correct way to remove those?
There was no sealant on the removed gasket
How much sealant is proper amount?
Do I smooth it or leave it as a bead?
Here is the part in the FSM about installing the valve cover (step 4):
46737
46738
46739
Torque valve cover bolts to 3.6 ft-lbs, there's no particular order mentioned in the FSM but I always torque things like this from the inside out and alternating left to right.
Be sure to replace the rubber washers under the screw heads with new ones.
You don't need to replace the half moon pieces unless you're certain that's where the leak is coming from. I didn't replace mine.
Per the first pic, there should be sealant at least at the 4 locations where the o-ring goes up and down to go around the cam shafts. It's ok to bead at these locations. I smeared some sealant at the rest of the o-ring surface on the heads. I used permatex grey RTV and have no leaks.

insurance guy

10-20-2015, 07:27 PM

Perfect
Thank you very much

insurance guy

10-21-2015, 11:50 AM

does anyone have any sort of layout of the carpet set from FFR
I asked them and they don't have one????

insurance guy

10-22-2015, 01:23 PM

started to replace the valve cover gaskets
https://youtu.be/z2l8ZP0FhNo

matteo92065

10-22-2015, 04:40 PM

does anyone have any sort of layout of the carpet set from FFR
I asked them and they don't have one????

I have the carpet kit. I have not installed all of it yet. The kit looks like FFR took all their interior sheet metal, flattened each piece, then cut carpet to that shape. There are many small to medium pieces of carpet.

insurance guy

10-26-2015, 07:43 AM

https://youtu.be/9XnH1uc072Efinished up the valve cover replacement. It is a very easy job. I guess I can say that now, I will have to see if I still have leaks.
here is video of the go kart

Hindsight

10-26-2015, 09:15 AM

Congrats on the first go-kart!

insurance guy

10-26-2015, 07:59 PM

Very disappointed, I went on subaru forums and researched the heck out of changing valve cover gaskets. This seemed like a real easy task. Purchased oem gaskets and even fujibond. I torqued everything to spec. Started car this evening and cover was leaking.
It was from different place from original. I disassembled the cover again. Cleaned the cover and gasket and tried this again. I was careful and just torqued it 2 pounds more.
I will update tomorrow.
After 3 covers i am getting faster at doing this, I hope I fix the leak. If it still leaks I will try it with fujibond the entire cover. Manuel calls for only a few places.

STiPWRD

10-27-2015, 07:42 AM

Have you replaced the cam shaft seals? This comes to mind as another possible leak source. Although replacing these will be much more of a headache as you'll have to remove the timing cover, belts, and cam pulleys.

insurance guy

10-27-2015, 06:10 PM

I am really bummed out, It appears to be leaking from the another source, possibly cam seals.
I am sure I cannot replace those with the motor in the car,
I need to find another solution.
real bummer

Bob_n_Cincy

10-27-2015, 07:11 PM

I am really bummed out, It appears to be leaking from the another source, possibly cam seals.
I am sure I cannot replace those with the motor in the car,
I need to find another solution.
real bummer

Are you sure you have a working PVC system?
If you have blow by pressure building up in the engine, it will blow oil out of seals.
Bob

insurance guy

10-27-2015, 07:40 PM

Engine was purchased from Wayne, very cool parts.
I never had it running prior to first start
How do I check that?
Looking for alternatives, either find a Subaru shop near by that I can tow go kart to.
Pull motor and attempt to repair myself
Or find replacement.
Hindsight ( not the guy on the threads) I would get donor and have working and tuned before pulling motor.
Lesson learned for next one.

STiPWRD

10-28-2015, 08:33 AM

Replacing the cam seals can be done with the motor still in the car, I didn't mean to bum you out. If you research it a bit more, read the FSM, watch some youtube, the task is really not insurmountable. I had never built a motor until this 818 project and it turned out fine with some research.

One tool that will make your life easy is the cam gear tool that holds them in place while you unscrew the cam bolts. It can be impossible to get these bolts off even if you try to lock the cam gears with the timing belt and even if you use an impact gun. The best way I've found is to use this tool (subaru p/n 499207400) and a breaker bar.

Bob_n_Cincy

10-28-2015, 10:25 AM

Are you sure you have a working PVC system?
If you have blow by pressure building up in the engine, it will blow oil out of seals.
Bob

How do I check that?
.

Leaving you oil fill cap off will prevent pressure from building in the crankcase.
See if that stops your leak.
Bob

insurance guy

10-28-2015, 07:06 PM

Leak did not stop but definitely slowed.
I will pull firewall and seats off and see if I can get to cam seals.

insurance guy

11-01-2015, 08:42 AM

I shipped the go kart over to precision tuning in spotswood nj. They are a Subaru Performance shop and they are going to evaluate my motor , provide me list of all the current issues and codes it is throwing. This will give me a better idea on next step.
I starting working in the body. All the inside body pieces were sanded and coated with DEI Boom Mat. I need to contact FFR regarding hardtop. I would take delivery on that without the glass so I can prep and have all body pieces ready when roller returns.
I am sitting with all the Windshield and doors parts from "S" ( never touched)470584705947060. Anyone needing anything let me know, With the hardtop I think I get new windshield frame and door panels.

insurance guy

11-02-2015, 08:55 AM

Installed the gas cap and started cutting fiberglass panels for the venting mesh. I am going to look for and put a rubber gasket between the gas cap and the body panel. The panel has a slight curvature and the cap is flat. 47085470864708747088

matteo92065

11-02-2015, 11:10 AM

...
I starting working in the body. All the inside body pieces were sanded and coated with DEI Boom Mat.....

Nice work! How many cans of DEI Boom Mat did you go through to do the panel interiors?

insurance guy

11-02-2015, 11:26 AM

I went through 5 cans
Rear Bumper
Hood
Sides
Fenders
I still have the front clip to do.
I was holding off the other body pieces hoping I can get my hardtop soon.

insurance guy

11-12-2015, 01:58 PM

picking up roller from Precision tuning Spotswood NJ today
they fixed all my leaks and issues
tuned care
cured all codes ( I had 15)
TGV delete and made engine ready to pass NJ inspection and emissions
Also ran car on Dyno
results are attached
I have no idea how to decipher this yet.47561

STiPWRD

11-12-2015, 02:12 PM

You made 224 hp and 231 ft-lbs of torque. Boost topped out at 16.8 psi and Air/fuel ratio was safely in the low 11's. I'd be happy with these results as these numbers are what you should be getting with a stock engine.

Mechie3

11-12-2015, 02:14 PM

Not bad for a guy that claims he knows nothing about cars. :)

insurance guy

11-12-2015, 07:31 PM

all I did was find the shop and pay the bill
however they did let me wander around the shop and answered all my stupid questions.
this was first time they saw an 818 and were completely into it

Mechie3

11-12-2015, 07:44 PM

You put it together. Minor detail. ;)

insurance guy

11-12-2015, 07:58 PM

Thanks
I took it for a drive around the block
It's scary fast
Needs an alignment, never drove a car like this
I suspect many points on my license if I am not careful

insurance guy

11-22-2015, 09:47 AM

now that the car is back from shop and I am confident I have a good motor I can start working on the body and interior. The gas tank had to be removed for the seals and tuning and when they reinstalled the gas tank the shop did not see the bolt that dropped between gas tank and frame. This was the reason I could not reinstall the firewall.47840glad I saw it right away. a small magnet and the firewall was reinstalled. The emergency brakes were adjusted and now I can get the seats and seatbelts in. I was mocking up the front console piece and scratch my head on the strange design on the right side. I will be doing some surgery on that piece. 47841 I have the carpet kit and it really is a waste if they don't give you some type of mapping where the cut pieces were supposed to go. Its a bunch of cut carpet pieces that resemble the metal pieces. I will figure it out but I would have been better served with just the carpet to cut my self. This carpet does not look like it will last with regular use anyway so I will make patterns while the seats are out for a future redo.
I watched the headlight install from Bob and see that the body install will be as challenging as the first part of this build. I cant wait.
Need to have the car aligned, looking for a good shop that will take on that task.
4784247843478444784547846478474784847849

insurance guy

11-22-2015, 03:56 PM

If anyone installed carpet kit, can you share pics?

insurance guy

11-27-2015, 03:44 PM

Started installing side sails, I thought the build would get easier. Impossible to get gaps. Set the sidepanels to 5/8
Matched with ffr shipping holes. The panels edge is 1/2 inch higher than the tube. It will be covered by alum piece. Question, do I trim fiberglass or lower panel. The manual calls for and shows rivets underneath to secure panels. They extend well past the side tube. Can some one take a pic and show me where they attached rivets
Thanks

NBinSD

11-27-2015, 04:23 PM

I clamped those panels down and then trimmed them with a jigsaw and dremel. I've since switched to using a belt sander take those edges down. You'll have to do this on every panel you put on. They're cut by hand and you can see the lines they follow which aren't precise and sometimes the cuts are wavy or totally off. This is the ugliest part of the build IMHO.

Also regarding the carpets, I haven't put them in so no pics but I found if you spread them all out you can guess which one goes where. They're cut like flattened versions of all the sheet metal.

insurance guy

11-27-2015, 04:58 PM

NBinSD

11-27-2015, 05:14 PM

We're talking about the side pods or side sails right? The way I mounted them was I pushed it flush up against the bottom of the car and clamped it to the frame with a big HF clamp... you can see it in the center of this pic:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzFVpgIV8tTTS195aG1uc3AxT2M/view?usp=sharing

Then I drew a line along the fiberglass to mark what I had to cut off. I only cut the area at the top of the side sail where it would be in the way of the aluminum cover. Then I drilled for rivnuts along the underside of the car into the frame. I use the all star performance conical washers that many others on here did. I also used rivnuts to attach the top of the side sails through the aluminum cover into the frame. I didn't use rivets to mount any body panels. These are the washers I used on the bottom: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0BN3WG

I used the 1" version of the same washers to attach the top of the side sail. You can see a pic of those here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzFVpgIV8tTTVm9YVmk4a2pTRTQ/view?usp=sharing

NBinSD

11-27-2015, 05:18 PM

I found Harley818's posts about mounting the body very helpful: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14763-Harley-s-818S/page5

07FIREBLADE

11-27-2015, 05:32 PM

Are those washers flat on the back. I wished I new the link to those before I bought a bunch of finish washers from HD and McMaster Carr awhile ago.

NBinSD

11-27-2015, 05:44 PM

Yeah they're flat on the back. I used them all around the underside to mount the fiberglass and in a few other places.

48042

insurance guy

11-27-2015, 05:45 PM

Thanks to all for the help.
Did you cut all the excess along the underside?
i have about 2 " if i drill and mount into square frame tube

NBinSD

11-27-2015, 05:59 PM

I didn't cut the underside but mine overhung the frame by 0 - 1/2".

07FIREBLADE

11-27-2015, 06:10 PM

Oh I like that a lot. The finish washers have nothing on that for surface area. More money wasted oh well time to place a new order.

insurance guy

11-27-2015, 06:34 PM

How did you get a good gap all along the hump trunk? Mine starts out fine and enlarges to about 1/2"
I cannot seem to get it closer.

NBinSD

11-27-2015, 07:37 PM

You mean the gap between the side sails and the hump engine cover? I couldn't get that gap close until I bought mechie's rear fender brace.

Unfortunately one of my side sails came out of the mold poorly and they slapped a wad of filler on it and gel coated it so it's 0 clearance at the front and perfect a few inches back. I'm going to have to sand it flat and re glass the area.

insurance guy

11-28-2015, 07:44 PM

thanks for all the help with the body
I clamped each side sail, then I put the hump trunk on and set the gaps. I used gorilla tape across the back of the sails. When the gap was set I taped everything and attached the rear bumper, then I drilled and attached the rear bumper with cleco's. I drilled the fiberglass around the transmission bolts, will go back with a 2" hole saw.
Then I drilled the already existent ffr shipping holes of the side sails and attached them with cleco's.
removed the rear hump trunk and measured the distance from top of shock on each side.
I was off by 1/4 ". Slight adjustment. Refit rear hump trunk then drilled the holes on the top mount.
I think I over tightened ton side as I see a slight stress crack.
I think I will purchase the rear mount that Mechie sells.
I like that it keeps the back spaced and hope it will relieve some of the stress.
Pics to follow

insurance guy

11-30-2015, 03:42 PM

I wanted to post updated photos from my weekend work. I measured 3x before I cut the hole for the tail pipe. I don't know how everyone else did it but I was off by almost 3 inches. I am fiberglassing the hole back in place and will use the gelcoat repair kit ffr sent me to hopefully make it look like new and recut the hole.
48195481964819748198

insurance guy

11-30-2015, 03:43 PM

482034820448205

insurance guy

12-01-2015, 09:12 AM

I am using rivnuts to mount fiberglass body. I want to be able to remove the pieces. I will also paint the panels off the car after the gaps and body work is done. The repair of the hole for the exhaust turned out pretty good. I will try my hand at gelcoat when it gets warmer.48227482284822948230

insurance guy

12-17-2015, 09:13 AM

Pearldrummer7

12-17-2015, 09:40 AM

I used Bob's install procedure for headlights. This order helped me a lot. I don't know how some people make them look so nice; mine came out fitting horrible. Namely the hood to fenders.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17286-Bob_n_Cincy-Head-Light-install-procedure&highlight=bob+headlight

Mechie3

12-17-2015, 11:23 AM

this is like a jigsaw puzzle where the pieces don't fit.

I hate to admit it...but I laughed. Not because it's funny, but I liked how you phrased and, having been there/done that, I feel the pain.

RM1SepEx

12-17-2015, 12:43 PM

this is like a jigsaw puzzle where the pieces don't fit. I move one part into position and two other parts are out of alignment. I am so scared of cutting the body pieces but looking closely at the manual and everyone else's build I am going to just start cutting and shaping to make everything fit. I have gelcoat paste from factory five, I also just ordered a polyester paste and fairing compound from Fiberglast
48650486514865248653486544865548656486574865848659

you need to cut the return edges so the hood, engine cover and trunk lid sit down, next you need to cut about 2 inches off the front edge of the fender ledges where they sit on the headlights, just as shown in the manual. You need to get the fender to nose perfect at the wheel well and at the rockers. I found that the hood needs more curvature in the center so I put a rubber tipped upgright on the tubing that goes across in back of the radiator.

I agree with the puzzle comment however the bigger issue is the 3D nature of the puzzle with the thin panels that tend to flatten over time. I used radiant heat and gravity (jugs of varied fluids) to massage the 3D nature of the panels. The longer that they sit, the worse it is...

At least your panels appear to be fully filled w/o large voids

insurance guy

12-20-2015, 09:50 PM

Built a wood frame for the front bumper, fenders and hood.
I mounted parts on that and can work the body and set it up as a single clip.
Easier to grind, and sand without the dust getting all over interior and engine bay.

insurance guy

12-21-2015, 09:17 PM

This kit is so screwy
Parts with no instructions, instructions with no parts.
Anyone have a picture on the install of rear cockpit side cover.
Part 41 on aluminum parts diagram,
This really needs surgery if it goes in the way I think it Does
Good thing they don't show how to install it until everything else is done so I have to disassemble everything I just did

NBinSD

12-21-2015, 09:37 PM

Someone just posted a pic... I think it was quiny. First time I've seen pics of it installed.

Bob_n_Cincy

12-21-2015, 10:02 PM

Someone just posted a pic... I think it was quiny. First time I've seen pics of it installed.
Here is quiny's picture
48815

I cut off a couple of inches off the bottom mine.
Bob

RM1SepEx

12-22-2015, 11:35 AM

His body is 1/4 farther forward than mine, I wonder how much body interferes with the roll bar at the humps

insurance guy

12-22-2015, 08:48 PM

after looking at the piece and the location for quite a while it covers up the opening from the hump lid. The piece if placed properly fits up into the inner corner of the hump trunk. I have not installed it yet but here is a picture of the location in blue tape,48851

insurance guy

12-23-2015, 01:17 PM

working on the door installation. Two very good resources are Wayne's and Tamra's install. Working back from the latch and striker make it real easy. I was unable to see the light through my sail as I undercoated it. I mounted the support and was able to get a drill and with a 1/16 drill bit put a hole through. I then traced the sticker on and outlined it. was very close with the first hole and dead on with the second. U need to take the side sali off to sand down an edge for the install of the side aluminum piece that attaches between that mount. I will begin to cut the hood and truck edges so the fits are flush.
I need to make my pics smaller as new camera is making them to big to upload

insurance guy

12-30-2015, 07:33 AM

removing all body pieces to cut as much of the flashing for a better fit. I have used rivnuts for most of the build so I can take body pieces off as needed. I am attaching the rest of the aluminum pieces ( wheel well and nose pieces) I will trim them when reattaching the fiberglass.
I need to find another way to post pictures as my new phone takes them to large to post

insurance guy

12-30-2015, 07:39 AM

ok figured it out
here is how I installed aluminum piece #41
I did some minor trimming
49302

insurance guy

01-03-2016, 02:38 PM

I have started sending update videos to my friend who is busy fighting cancer.
I will be posting video updates
here is link for all to see
https://youtu.be/hE8fJiA0Sl8

NBinSD

01-03-2016, 03:54 PM

Nice video, your car looks great and you're making quick progress. Did you ever get your hood/fender/bumper set lined up? I've got my headlights in, and fenders attached to the bumper and side sails but my hood's going to take some serious work to get it to fit.

Hoping the best for your buddy's health.

insurance guy

01-03-2016, 05:11 PM

I need to cut the flashing around the hood so it is flush with the fenders and bumpers. I am seeing that the car aligns a lot better if you done force it into place. I am going to let everything be unstressed and finish the imperfections after all body pieces and aluminum are attached. I will remove all the body pieces and build a jig to do body work and paint. I am using rivnuts for everything so it comes apart ( not easily) I watched all the videos of fashthings GTM's build. He started with the body work. I can never get to his level of perfection but it shows me that the bodywork after will fix any gaps or places I am unhappy with. Living in NJ getting this car registered will be the trophy I am looking for. I have been through the process previously with another type of build and they are really nuts.

insurance guy

03-19-2016, 07:41 PM

So here I am for the last few days trying to install the dash. Are the 2 aluminum brackets and center console the only thing holding this? I purchased some heavy duty velcro but it does not Appear that the front will sit flush.
I would appreciate pics of how you installed yours.
I am struggling door liners also. They just don't look good at the transition from outside to inside. Any suggestions?
I have 15 items on my list to completely car. working really slow trying to make it look somewhat professional.

NBinSD

03-19-2016, 08:25 PM

I do think the two al brackets are all they provide for the dash mount. I bought some aluminum and made a couple of more brackets but haven't finished the install to say if they're enough or not. I've heard other people say they're making wider brackets but I haven't seen any of them. My front isn't super flush either but I think with velcro and some weights it'll be fine.

My doors look crappy where the door card meets it. I put the door edge molding around the fiberglass but that makes setting the door gap quite a bit harder. I ended up putting velcro between the door card and the door skin between the door latch and the top of the door... mostly to fill the gap with something. It's still not great looking.

insurance guy

03-20-2016, 02:31 PM

insurance guy

03-23-2016, 06:40 PM

I had my dash installed today. Two name companies refused to install the windshield because either they did not sell me the windshield or the vehicle was not one they were comfortable doing. the installer that came by said if the owner was in , he would not have taken the job. He used a rubber trim molding around the front edge it came out acceptable. There is nothing on the inside edge and I am guessing there should have been a similar molding like the front. No problem I am sure I can find something acceptable at McMaster Carr. After the installer left I noticed the bottom driver side was lifting. A few pieces of Gorilla Tape quickly fixed that. I will see if it separates' again and will get some of the black disgusting adhesive they use. I also think there needs some finishing trim or bulb molding to put around the inside windshield to give it a more finished look. My next challenge is the wiper. I purchased a single motor and will look to install one wiper right in the center. I have seen others do the same but cannot find the build threads. Anyone that knows of any please pass them on. I am replacing the hood pins with the small quick latches others have used. I need to weld up the current pin locations so I can redrill smaller holes. I had the car outside and idling today. first time in months. I am so glad the weather is finally getting warmer. Need to get the ramps out. LOL5198951990

NBinSD

03-23-2016, 06:51 PM

got back on track today with installation of the dash. I fabricated steel brackets about 2" longer than the supplied aluminum ones. I used Velcro across the front. It seems to hold. I think I will cut a piece of rigid foam in the shape of the front and wedge it under the dash. holds the front up really nice.
51770

Could be an optical illusion but it looks like you have the dash under the windshield frame. I wasn't sure which way it was supposed to go but I believe most people are putting the dash on top of the windshield frame and then vecro-ing it down.

insurance guy

03-23-2016, 08:09 PM

the BEST thing about the Factory Five 818 is the FORUM. You are absolutely correct, I did not realize it went on the top of the frame. I removed the supports took off the Velcro and it lays perfectly. Thanks so much for the catch, it looks 100% better. The Velcro tape residue is easily removed and the holes in the dash will be used for the supplied aluminum brackets that fit remarkably well NOW. Great CATCH NBinSD, eternally grateful.

Bob_n_Cincy

03-23-2016, 09:01 PM

My next challenge is the wiper. I purchased a single motor and will look to install one wiper right in the center. I have seen others do the same but cannot find the build threads.

Here is my single wiper mounted in the center with no hood trimming.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12534-MRG-MotorSports-818S-Build&p=211128&viewfull=1#post211128

insurance guy

03-23-2016, 09:50 PM

Do you have any more photos of that install Bob?
I purchased a single boat wiper motor and looking for place to mount it.
There was another install I saw about 6 months back
Can't find it now.
Now that the windshield is in things are clearer ( not meant to be a joke)
I had the glass packed away in a safe place, should have put it in to do dash and now windshield profit.

insurance guy

03-23-2016, 09:51 PM

I hate spell check
Previously not profit

Bob_n_Cincy

03-23-2016, 10:13 PM

Hey insurance guy, You can always edit your own post. _________ ^^^^^^^^

I also used a marine wiper motor. See post 663 in my thread.
I didn't take pictures of the bracket I made before I covered it up. I will do so on my second car in a couple of months.
Bob

STiPWRD

03-24-2016, 08:18 AM

My next challenge is the wiper. I purchased a single motor and will look to install one wiper right in the center. I have seen others do the same but cannot find the build threads. Anyone that knows of any please pass them on.
Here's one of the wiper threads:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12644-windshield-wipers-818-s&p=194180&viewfull=1#post194180

A few other people have done a single wiper

Lumpyguy:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16437-Lumpyguys-818S-build&p=222064&viewfull=1#post222064

Matteo:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14720-San-Diego-builds-One-the-easy-way-one-the-hard-way&p=199883&viewfull=1#post199883

Hendow
520035200452005

Erik
52006

RM1SepEx

03-24-2016, 09:11 PM

With my single, no hood cut, I do have a FFR wiper arm on order to finish it

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10649-RM1Sepex-Build-Thread/page31

AZPete

03-24-2016, 09:56 PM

Here's my single wiper with the donor motor and donor arm. I don't have to cut my hood and this allows the remote reservoir and removing the windshield. Now you've got lots of choices so hopefully one works for you.
52012

insurance guy

03-25-2016, 09:10 PM

I cannot thank Brian from iwire enough. Not only is his harness beautiful, easy to install, his customer service is world class. He answers my emails in a timely manner and is always there to make sure I don't electrocute myself.
I just got done wiring a boat wiper motor, it worked perfect first time. I am having issues with my horn and he is sending me pics on possible solutions. Great guy and great craftsman.

insurance guy

03-26-2016, 07:09 PM

Horn does not work, traced to what I believe is clock spring.
Anyone have any input on difficulty changing that? I am tempted just to run a small button for horn to pass inspection.

Hindsight

03-26-2016, 08:19 PM

Super easy. Four thin but long screws. Remove the steering wheel and you'll be looking right at it. Black plastic roundish thing with four screws holding it to the whitexhaust plastic steering column lever assembly.

Before you do all that though, find the wire for the-brake horn that plugs into theach clock spring and jumper it to ground. If you don't hear your relay click and horn come on, it's not the clock spring. If you do, double check that your horn wire has a ground.

insurance guy

03-27-2016, 08:57 AM

anybody have an inexpensive source for a clockspring.
They want 150.00 for that
cheaper to run a horn button

wallace18

03-27-2016, 09:10 AM

anybody have an inexpensive source for a clockspring.
They want 150.00 for that
cheaper to run a horn button

I wired the horn relay to the washer button on the steering column stalk on all my 818 builds. It is a great place IMO if you are not using the washer function.

Quiny

03-27-2016, 10:12 AM

I wired the horn relay to the washer button on the steering column stalk on all my 818 builds. It is a great place IMO if you are not using the washer function.

I did the same thing, except I used the rear washer button on the stalk. I am using the wiper and washer functions for the wipers. It is a great spot.

Hindsight

03-27-2016, 12:20 PM

Can get them for under $100 on eBay, sometimes a little less. They are expensive because they do fail on their own, and I think you need one after your ABS goes off but I'm not 100% certain of that.

NBinSD

03-27-2016, 12:52 PM

I've been looking at them on eBay too. I had planned to use my new Momo wheel with the bell works hub with a new clockspring but the washer button is an interesting idea and saves the cost of a clockspring (which my phone autocorrected to cockspur).

insurance guy

03-28-2016, 06:44 AM

thanks for the idea, I need to speak to Iwire regarding the washer button as my wipers go on when I push the washer. I have been struggling with the doors. Wayne's thread and Tamra's thread proved very he52114lpful. I was not liking the way the door release was mounted. I added some support under it. It really secures the feel to it.
52114
52115
52116
52117

insurance guy

03-28-2016, 08:23 PM

It gets comical, as I finish and solve an issue another one pops up. I went to install the side view mirrors and see that they do not fit. Anyone find any inexpensive aftermarket ones that fit?

Hindsight

03-28-2016, 08:51 PM

These are the cheapest and I remember guys having them on lowriders and stuff in the 80's:
http://www.mooreparts.com/black-baby-turbo-mirror-universal-left-or-right/

Google search this for several ideas: side mirrors 818 site:thefactoryfiveforum.com

I actually ordered a pair of mirrors off eBay today but they weren't that cheap. Cheaper than the $300-$500 ones I see a lot (like from APR etc): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-F1-Style-Carbon-Fiber-Side-Mirror-Kit-per-Pair-with-Blue-Lens-Mirror-/231894042131?hash=item35fdf64613:g:ybUAAOxy3HJTGUv M&vxp=mtr

AZPete

03-28-2016, 10:54 PM

Speedway, Hollywood mirrors
52141

Aero STI

03-29-2016, 07:41 AM

Speedway, Hollywood mirrors
52141

I have these mirrors too. I think they look reasonably good.

STiPWRD

03-29-2016, 08:35 AM

I actually ordered a pair of mirrors off eBay today but they weren't that cheap. Cheaper than the $300-$500 ones I see a lot (like from APR etc): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-F1-Style-Carbon-Fiber-Side-Mirror-Kit-per-Pair-with-Blue-Lens-Mirror-/231894042131?hash=item35fdf64613:g:ybUAAOxy3HJTGUv M&vxp=mtr
That's what I'm using - carbon fiber APR GT3 $172 for the pair

insurance guy

04-03-2016, 08:02 AM

After ruining 2 door liners I finally was able to complete both doors and be reasonably happy with the results. Mounting the completed doors was really easy if you follow Wayne's hints and Tamra's instructions. Gap is acceptable. I am now trying to get the front fenders back on and aligned. I suspect I will be doing lots of grinding and adding material as I already see alignment issues. 5229552296522975229852299523005230152302

insurance guy

04-04-2016, 09:01 AM

while I struggle with fenders and hood I began the trunk kit. 5236152362

flynntuna

04-04-2016, 12:02 PM

Thanks for that pic of the trunk. It actually looks like that there is decent trunk space in the 818.

insurance guy

04-08-2016, 07:35 PM

I am so close to finishing then I put the next piece on and realize I have so much more to do.
I struggle with the fender and door. If I put the fender when it looks to line up I cannot open the door. It touch's on the bottom. If I move the fender forward or outward to leave clearance to open the door it extends to far forward and out. How is everyone handling this part? Are yours lining up?
Do I simply CUT the fender where the door hits? That is a lot of material. Any insgth or pictures is greatly appreciates.
My wife bought me a Quick Jack by Ranger for my birthday. OMG I wish I had this from the start. Spent yesterday just going up and down.525515255252553

Aero STI

04-08-2016, 07:47 PM

I brought my doors in closer to the hinges, probably by another inch compared to what you have, in order to have the doors open properly

NBinSD

04-08-2016, 08:11 PM

I'm in the same spot. With the doors mounted and fenders lined up, the doors hit the fenders

Aero did you bring the fronts of the doors in by moving where the door skins mount on the door frame? I can't really see any other way to do it.

insurance guy

04-08-2016, 08:11 PM

Can you send a pic with them opened and closed
Thanks

insurance guy

04-08-2016, 08:15 PM

Actually I might be able to bring bottom in but lose alignment with line

Hindsight

04-08-2016, 08:29 PM

Did you radius the bottom front of the door skin? I think there is a pic in Wayne's door fitting tips thread.

insurance guy

04-08-2016, 08:42 PM

Yes
Followed Wayne's and tamra's install.
I will try moving door bottom in towards hinge, I think I have some play that way but the rear gap comes out.

Aero STI

04-08-2016, 09:46 PM

The white is hard to photograph. Hopefully you can see the positioning.

http://i.imgur.com/mRymSYGh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3dtETBsh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LZS5iIZh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GpmRM5Oh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/J92EdLOh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mNKOniGh.jpg

RM1SepEx

04-08-2016, 09:51 PM

I brought my doors in closer to the hinges, probably by another inch compared to what you have, in order to have the doors open properly

I had to move them in like that for the rear seam to align

insurance guy

04-09-2016, 07:50 AM

AERO STI HAD IT RIGHT ON
I removed the and disassembled the door, took the 2 screws out attaching the fiberglass skin to the steel frame. I was only able to move it about 1/2 " but is was enough to allow have the clearance needed. Now I can open the door with out hitting fender and gaps and body lines are still nice. I still have to do the Drivers side but now at least I know how to resove issue.
Thanks to all who responded and visit this forum. 52555525565255752558

insurance guy

04-10-2016, 06:46 PM

I was able to install both fenders and the doors open without any interference. I now move on to try to install the hood and secure the fenders permanently. I will have to sand down the hood to get the gap and transition even and then play around with the corner transition of the hood fender and windshield. Each time I move forward I spend hours just looking at this trying to see how this is supposed to fit. Each built I see has a different take on it. I never have done body work or painting on a car so this is probably the one I will make all the mistakes on. While installing the trunk you have to attach it to the hump lid. It really make that lay perfect. If you have the trunk and need to take off the hump lid you have to unscrew the attachment screws. what a pain to just check oil. I will see if I can devise an easier method.52614526155261652617

idf

04-10-2016, 08:08 PM

52614[/ATTACH]526155261652617
Check out Mike Everson's hump hinges/ trunk mounts.

insurance guy

04-10-2016, 08:27 PM

Really?
You have location, I cannot find them

Solidworks-Mike

04-10-2016, 10:22 PM

Really?
You have location, I cannot find them

http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm

insurance guy

04-11-2016, 06:35 AM

http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm

I know about that part. The Factory Five Trunk Kit fits under the rear deck lid. It is secured to the Hump Lid. which means the Hump will not open unless you remove the screws securing the trunk.52634

RM1SepEx

04-11-2016, 07:02 AM

insurance guy

04-11-2016, 07:15 AM

i am going to steal your idea. Thanks

Bob_n_Cincy

04-11-2016, 09:34 AM

I cut a small access door into the hump aluminum, also added a light. Now I don't have to remove the engine cover to check or add oil. I'm working on finishing the aluminum panels with vinyl. You can see how much a small led panel lights up inside the engine compartment by comparing the two photos of the open door. This also allowed me to screw the cover closed, no hinges, no exposed hood pins.

52641 52642 52643

Great Idea Dan.
Wish I could use it. We had our humps off 10 time this weekend to check to oil level between each track session.
The top of our non-adjustable seats are against the roll bar blocking access. We are thinking of using the gas cap as a dip stick access.
Bob
52652

idf

04-11-2016, 11:19 AM

I know about that part. The Factory Five Trunk Kit fits under the rear deck lid. It is secured to the Hump Lid. which means the Hump will not open unless you remove the screws securing the trunk.52634

With the part above the trunk mounts to the hinge bracket, not the hump lid. The hump lid opens fine with the trunk in place.

RM1SepEx

04-11-2016, 05:13 PM

Great Idea Dan.
Wish I could use it. We had our humps off 10 time this weekend to check to oil level between each track session.
The top of our non-adjustable seats are against the roll bar blocking access. We are thinking of using the gas cap as a dip stick access.
Bob
52652

My seats hinge, I want to relocate my harness bar to the rear of the roll cage where it is stronger and since I'm vertically challenged (unlike you two!) I need to lower it too. FFR should fill in that corner and put 3 sets of mounting holes at different levels.

Bob, make a removable access panel on the side of the hump? I refuse to haul that engine cover off every time I want to check the oil. I screwed mine down so it isn't easy, it's marginally a 1 person job.

insurance guy

04-25-2016, 11:03 AM

thanks for all the help the wiper is installed and it was much easier than I thought. I went with a single marine wiper. The blade will be removed after the NJ inspection as I doubt I would be driving the car in a rainstorm.
I will prop up the hood to give clearance for the wiper arm as I will not be cutting the hood. I need to trim the hood and finalize the front end.
The "todo list" is less than 10 items for completion.53233532345323553236

insurance guy

04-29-2016, 10:31 AM

I am looking for a part number and source for the clockspring. Really would like aftermarket one. they are expensive. Need horn to work for NJ inspection. My donor is a 03 wrx

insurance guy

04-29-2016, 02:25 PM

I am using the mini quick latches instead of the supplied hood pins. Really nice look to them. If you order them get the springs , they will pop pop the hood up.53402534035340453405

UnhipPopano

04-29-2016, 02:35 PM

Did you consider the red ones that match the body color?

insurance guy

04-29-2016, 02:44 PM

I am going to paint my car flat black and that keeps changing so silver is fine it will go with any color I finally choose

wallace18

04-29-2016, 03:53 PM

A word of caution about these latches. I really like them as well. I built a 33 and used them to hold down the front hood. I sold the car and the guy who bought it stopped at Wal-Mart to go shopping. When he drove home some kid or someone pushed in the button and he lost his hood at 55MPH. It ended up costing him well over 1K to have the hood repaired. Just be careful. They do look way better than the pins, IMO.

metros

04-29-2016, 07:06 PM

Do those corner braces for the quick latches come with the kit or did you make those? Close to doing the same and also have the quick latches. Glad to see they look so good.

insurance guy

04-29-2016, 08:20 PM

I made those from strip aluminum. What I just found out is quick latch has a mounting bracket and spring. I ordered the spring, bracket is out of stock. They look easy to fabricate. (not really, but I will try) Issue I am having is aligning the trunk. I posted a separate thread asking for help.

insurance guy

05-08-2016, 07:47 AM

I removed the seats and tried to install the carpet kit. The kit does not include carpet for under the seat. Although no one would ever see or know there is no carpet under the seat it look incomplete.; I was unable to find a similar black carpet but I did find some grey indoor out door carpet at home depot that would be easy to work with and would not fray if cut. I used the kit as a guide for some of the pieces and made templates for others with paper. The grey carpet was easier to install as it was thinner.
I will make mats or buy mats and do not expect any sort of wear on the other pieces. I am extremely happy with the results.53750537515375253753

insurance guy

05-15-2016, 07:46 AM

carpet complete
I was not happy with the cover for the ebrake and since seats were out I fabricated a new one.
I am much happier with this. I have not decided If I would paint it or cover it with carpet.
5399753998

insurance guy

05-25-2016, 07:25 PM

I am finishing up the final touches and going over the State of NJ checklist of items. I should have everything done over the Memorial day holiday ( hoping my front hood latch comes in).
I was running the car looking for leaks and notice coolant on the floor. Now I am getting paranoid. looks like leak is from degas tank. I have done the VCP coolant fix. Can someone confirm that the coolant tube running on the passenger side of the car goes to the upper outlet of the radiator. My right hose is hot and my drivers side is cool. Is something backwards?
Car temp gauge is fine. I go though the manual and for some reason I cannot figure it out. Must be a senior moment. Please Help

Bob_n_Cincy

05-25-2016, 08:39 PM