insurance guy 818

[insurance guy]

Thanks much
I have not run the motor an extended time so coolant leak was a surprise.
Not sure it is nothing more than overflow
But from degas tank??

[insurance guy]

So this is interesting
Nj dmv has in paperwork, I need documentation from manufacturer of the engine or a dealer authorized by manufacturer to establish proof of the year of the engine.
Any ideas what I could show them??????

[mikeb75]

Donor VIN plate?

[insurance guy]

purchased donor kit from VCP, no door vin plate.
there is a motor number B667927, I will check with local Subaru Dealer if that can be verified.

[Hindsight]

Wayne should have paperwork on the donor from where he bought it. Maybe reach out to him?

[insurance guy]

except for a few small tweaking , I feel the car is ready for inspection. I am going to wait till I pass the inspection then disassemble the fiberglass body for painting. It took me a year to get to this point and I found this kit to be a real challenge. I most certainly could not have completed it without the help of this forum and the members that went out of their way to respond when I was struggling. Thanks to all of you.
I will provide updates on the bodywork and of 5434754348543495435054351543525435354354course videos of the driving ( once I am street legal)

[insurance guy]

while I await my state inspection , I can work on some of the little details to make car look more OEM.
The space on the steering column was easily covered with a piece of vinyl. put in place with 3m adhesive.
I think it looks like it was always there.54626546275462854629

[ben1272]

Looks real nice. The carpeting job in particular looks carefully fitted.

Everything else looks real clean, and when you finish the bodywork you are going to have a real looker!

[insurance guy]

My lack of automotive repair knowledge is extremely frustrating and problematic. I try to learn how to bleed brakes and a clutch with you tube videos and forums.
I wait for a state inspection with a clutch pedal on the floor and a very hard to refill master brake and clutch cylinder. If I am able to pass inspection I plan on moving those to a more accessible place.
Word to current and future builders, get the mechanical issues worked out in the go-kart stage.

[insurance guy]

is there anything that I can install that would allow me to raise and lower the height of the car a s I see fit?
I am looking for 3 or 4 more inches. Getting on/off driveway and putting on lift

[Bob_n_Cincy]

is there anything that I can install that would allow me to raise and lower the height of the car a s I see fit?
I am looking for 3 or 4 more inches. Getting on/off driveway and putting on lift

Are you talking about air bags or something that temporarily raise the car?
Maybe something like this:

http://www.polyperformance.com/Fox-2-0-Coilover-Air-Shock

[insurance guy]

I was thinking of air bags but if prices are similar to that shock, I will stick to the wooden ramp
thanks

[STiPWRD]

Some of the GTM guys use this RamLift Pro kit but it ain't cheap:
http://www.ramliftpro.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zmOoMV44vc&context=C401d758ADvjVQa1PpcFMmlnPL-Riw6wePQ5kgfFhak0d8-IOVDGU=

[insurance guy]

I received and installed the Zero Decibel front hood hinge. Very easy install except I had to remove aluminum under nose and take off half the nose to secure the hinge. Not to bad. If you get this install it before you put on your body fiberglass.
At the cost of Air Shocks that go up and down , I will use current wooden ramp and purchase a new plasma cutter.
My clutch pedal came up but I think I still have issues, thanks to all who respond, I love this forum.548305483154832

[insurance guy]

I am still waiting on the State of NJ to send my paperwork to the inspection Station. I spoke to Joe from the Asbury Park facility. One of the things NJ looks at is the ground clearance. They measure as if the car was sitting on the RIMS. Clearance has to be
2 1/2 inches.
Wanted to let all of you NJ builders know as this is new information to me more updates to come

[insurance guy]

This why I "love" New Jersey, about 3 weeks ago I mailed my registration and inspection packet to Department on Mv in Trenton. I carefully followed all the instructions, checked and rechecked. The only thing I omitted was the sales tax payment, I figured, I would let them do the math and send me a letter with amount.
Today I received my letter with not only a bill for over 1100.00 dollars but a deficiency that I did not provide a manufacturers certificate of origin for the chassis/frame.
Now I have to wait till Monday to wait 45 minutes on hold to ask them what they did with that beautiful Certificate of Origin that factory five included in the kit.
Did they lose it? Did they not know what it was?
They did get the math correct.
After all the paperwork I can make appointment for special inspection. I already spoke to "Joe" at the Asbury Park inspection station. He has done many factory fives, mine is his first 818.
I was happy he remembered me from four years back, he inspected 2 electric conversions I did.
I will keep updating

[insurance guy]

The wait on hold was not that bad, after speaking to Supervisors NJ DMV decided that they need to have documentation on all the parts. The invoice from Very Cool Parts was not enough, they are seeking a notarized letter on company letterhead with a detailed description of what is included in the Donor Kit. Wayne is sending that to me. (thanks Wayne) For all you NJ Builders, a notarized letter or the TITLE of the DONOR signed over to you. I think the notarized letter is less problematic and will not bring into play any "salvage" or "junked" issues that will really cause problems in NJ.
This might get me to the next step , THE INSPECTION"

[insurance guy]

I had my NJ State Construction Inspection today.
Inspector went over the car for almost 2 hours
I PASSED
I now wait for the registration from Trenton and I can go get my plates.
Here were the major concerns:
No rear bumper- asked if I can put a larger one across the interio
use a larger wiper blade
the front wheels just barely cleared wheel wells with full left and right. If they touched that would have been issue
that was it
I am so happy

[Canadian818]

Congrats!

[insurance guy]

can you believe how long the NJ process takes.
Received Title in the mail today
Insurance card needed and then off to Department of Motor Vehicles to register and get plates
hopefully all done before end of week.58530

[Mechie3]

Congrats!

[Hindsight]

Big congrats!

[insurance guy]

plates are on
took my first real drive
17 mile loop both residential , town and highway. All I can say is "wow"
this car is nimble and super quick. had it up to 80 before I realized it.
avoid the bumps and dips in the road and you will be fine.
super happy with Factory Five, many thanks to the forum. I would nave never completed it without all of you.
I still have the bodywork and paint to do, but as long as the weather stays like this, that can wait.
58601

[Bob_n_Cincy]

congratulations

[RM1SepEx]

How well do your plate lights work at night? I have mine over the plate on the flat section and they have poor lighting of the plate.

Congrats on getting her on the road! I have trouble working on mine too whiule the weather's good enough to drive. I agree, avoid major holes and the car works very well on the road.

[mikeb75]

Congrats & drive the wheels off it!

[longislandwrx]

cooooool.

[insurance guy]

driving around town is ok
I need to get this on the highway
see link
https://youtu.be/W3FHu0a3rQ0
https://youtu.be/W3FHu0a3rQ0

[insurance guy]

I am back after a 6 month hiatus. I had the car licensed and registered in NJ. Drove it for 60 miles, took it to a car show and then the weather changed. It has been in the garage since.
I have put it up for sale but its laughable what people want to pay you. They think you are giving it away. they want to give you less than kit costs.
I would enjoy the car more if I had a hard top, so I am considering upgrading and not only getting the top but the new front ( almost pulled the trigger on that last year.)
Can anyone with the top give me some feedback on their experience doing the conversion?

[insurance guy]

decided not to sell
Ordered the new front end and hard top. I will pic it up next Friday.
I will keep an updated log with pics on this thread. I was reviewing the updated manual. Its as confusing as it always was. I am shaking thinking about doing the doors again. Now with windows ugh

[insurance guy]

Picked up hardtop and new front end today.
Inventoried all the pieces and now trying to get all the install documentation. I do not seeing the hard top attaches to the reason the car. Any one can share pics or process it would be appreciated. They had a hardtop in the showroom and I tried to get as many detail pics as possible but once this car is complete finding attachment points are difficult.
I have the new version of the manual, hardtop and front end are sprinkled throughout. Really? No conversion document, no mention on what to remove from old front end and doors.
I don't see wiring diagram for power windows. Have to go look for my Strait Jacket. Looks like I will be needing it again.
O

[insurance guy]

I removed original front end and wiring. I have I wire harness. I can detach the front clip wiring and send to i-wire with new connectors for upgrade.
Original windshield and frame came off easy. Needed to cut our for master cylinder and clutch reserviour. Prefit is too easy. There is a hardtop in the ffr showroom, I need to find out what attachment clips they used. They are really nice. There is no mention in the manual on where or how to open up airflow for intercooler. Anyone know what needs to be done?
Will post pics in am

[Mechie3]

As far as the front end, I think there is a thread somewhere in the body section or general about the new front end. I couldn't find it with a quick google search.

[insurance guy]

new top installation66462664636646466465664666646766468

[AZPete]

Alan, see this thread for a few tips about the hard top.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21304-Hard-Top-install-tips-add-yours

Before mounting the hard top you should turn it upside down to complete your headliner, cut out the roof ducts and any other finishing of the inside, such as paint or upholstery.

I see your dash in place. Don't mount it permanently until the windshield is installed, then you can snug the front against the glass for a nice fit. Regarding the roof air ducts, you should cut out the hole from the 3-inch ducts inside the quarter windows. You can cut a hole to fit whatever tubes you will use but I found that 3-inch flex tubes fit nicely over the roof ducts, so I cut the roof ducts out to the maximum I.D.
66471


FFR used pins and clips to hold the back corners of the hard top, like the engine covers on the 818S. I wanted hidden fasteners so I epoxied threaded studs onto the back corners of the hard top, then used a diagonal piece to hold the top from underneath. Similarly, you can use threaded studs to hold the hard top along the edges.

6646966470
66472

I see that your hard top has longer A pillars than mine which will help solve the problem of a gap at the bottom of the A pillars where the hood/fender/door/A pillar all come together. That's a needed improvement! Now I'll try to duplicate it on mine. Another improvement in your newer top is that the seams appear to be narrower than on my early top. You haven't sanded them down yet have you?

[insurance guy]

where in the manual does it say all of this???
can you send a picture of how you routed the air.
I was thinking of doing the studs for all the locations and holding top down that way.
Thanks for the info about headliner before doing anything.
I just put top on to cut away for the brake and clutch reservoir. I also see my wiper is in the way and that needs some cutting.
thanks for the update

[AZPete]

Alan, I like to solve puzzles so I don't depend on the manual, hence I don't think all of this is in any manual. OTOH, the most recent update I have is "Q". Is there a more recent update, like "R"?

I added a couple of photos to post #285 and I have added to the hard top install thread so it might be found by other hard top guys.

I also had to cut the windshield apron to duplicate my S windshield for the brake & clutch masters, and for the wiper. Then, I found out from FFR that it's alright to trim the windshield all the way across, as long as you leave some of the horizontal surface for support. It allows more work room and, I think, looks better.
6647966480

[insurance guy]

All old front end pieces were removed
starting to mock up the new front end665566655766558

[Aero STI]

FYI your ZDB hood hinge arms are going to need to be replaced to match the new front end. Craig has a new design with more curve.

[NBinSD]

FYI your ZDB hood hinge arms are going to need to be replaced to match the new front end. Craig has a new design with more curve.

You can have mine. I bought both hinge arms when I got my last load of parts from Craig... I wasn't sure which front end I was going to go with. Ended up being easier to use the original front end - no iWire changes and my build is going slow enough without swapping front ends part way through. PM me your address and I'll drop them in the mail this weekend. -Noah

[insurance guy]

thank you very much
sent you a pm

[insurance guy]

continued to set up new nose. Manual has very limited instructions with regards to actual placement. I found forum entries and with help of AZPETE set up bottom support 9/16" from front tube and top mount 6 1/2" from rear tube. The Strap that needs to be twisted had nothing other than a diagram. The pics below show how I heated it and bent it 90 degrees, it was not difficult. Now the adjusting of exactly how this is set up begins. I placed the new fenders on the support and see more issues with a post and fender. I had similar issues with original front fenders so this was no surprise. Now its just measure 7 or 8 times and trying not to cut anything. more to come6665766658666596666066661666626666366664666656 6666

[insurance guy]

6666766668666696667066671

[AZPete]

FFR has extended the fiberglass on the A pillar to help solve the gap at the hood/fender/door junction. So far, all looks good.

[insurance guy]

I cannot seem to find any instructions or pictures on the Hard Top Hatch Gas Strut installation. Anyone has any pic or notes?

[insurance guy]

after installing the new fender supports, I fit the new aluminum panels. The placement I received for the top brackets were incorrect and I adjusted them to fit the aluminum cutouts. I don't know why the manual would not provide the EXACT PLACEMENT of these?? minor issue though. Fitting the aluminum and trimming the hardtop cowl. Does anyone have any pictures or placement of the aluminum that extends 90 degrees from side? 66769667706677166772667736677466775667766677766778 I liked Azpete's way of attaching the hardtop but did not like the small studs available so I fabricated my own using the ones I had. I like larger diameter bolts.

[Mechie3]

I had to adjust my aluminum too for the upper fender supports. It does look like they made the cutout bigger. On mine, the cutout the almost the exact size needed, just in the wrong spot.

[AZPete]

"Does anyone have any pictures or placement of the aluminum that extends 90 degrees from side?"
I think you mean the front of the front wheel well and you might want to wait on that because if it is in place you can't reach the inside of the headlights. I'd wait until you have the front fenders and headlights (and painting?) done. Also, the rear panel of the front wheel wells covers the door hinge bolts so wait on that also until the doors are finalized.

[NBinSD]

I modified the wheel well aluminum that goes behind the front wheels so they can be removed by dropping them down and then reinstalled by pushing them up from below. It didn't make sense to me that have to remove the windshield (or hard top in this case) to remove those pieces. Plus it blocked the fender to side sail attachment point and as Pete pointed out all the door hardware.

[insurance guy]

that is an excellent idea
Those pieces prevent access to doors also. I will modify them tonight
I am installing as much as I can and then will send all the nose and hardtop pieces out for powdercoating to match the rest of the build.I already sent front end harness to iwire, he will provide new headlight connectors to old harness. He is also making me a harness for electric windows.

[insurance guy]

I like that airbox I saw yesterday on the forum. Sta6694866949669486695066951rted building my own

[insurance guy]

I was finally able to get a neighbor to help me move the hardtop from the car on to its top so I can fiberglass studs for attachment.
I will take advice of AZPETE and finish the inside of it.

I just received the backordered headliner material and I am trying to figure out how to attach that and the aluminum headliner sheet to the top.
I had the fiberglass out to secure the studs and decided to fabricate an airbox for the intercooler.
Trying a few variations , I will have to cut some of the aluminum from the original kit to make room. Some of the ducting aluminum gets in the way.
I need to find out which direction the aluminum angle firewall faces. Again there is some of the side aluminum that needs to be cut to make room for that. I removed the seats so I have plenty of room to work.
More pics Monday

[insurance guy]

working on the inside of the hardtop while it is still off the car. sanded the interior and filled in any imperfections with polyester resin and filler. I think I do not like sanding.
I used Azpetes advice and epoxy'd studs to hard top. I also used existing holes for the second set of studs.67557675586755967560

[insurance guy]

I continue working on the interior of the hardtop. The finish that came looks ok, there are a few places that were not perfect from the mold so I decided to refinish the entire underside. I sanded and used hi build primer. If I had more practice with this results would be better.
I amusing filler to really try to make it smooth. working really carefully with fiberglass as you can lose yourself very quickly and go way to far. Metal is easier as you only get down to metal. Fiberglass you get down to nothing. I am testing various textured finishes for the inside. I think a truck bedliner will give it the look I am seeking.
I received the Formacar aluminum pieces for the front. I like how they close off the interior and it provides mounting pads for any future installation I might want to do.
The new nose is starting to trouble me with the lack of an install manual. the one I was provided by FFR really leaves me asking many questions. I did not weld the fender wing mounts. There is room for adjustment but bolted in you lose the adjustment.
I will finish the hardtop install first then the new front . Looks like lots of trimming to do.67712677136771467715677166771767718677196772067 721

[insurance guy]

interior of the hardtop6772267723677246772567726

[insurance guy]

Started putting power windows in the door frames. Lots of adjusting to further complicate the adjustment of doors. I am confused there is a locking mechanism on Driver side and they provide an interior mechanism to unlock the door.
Is the passenger door always locked from entry outside? Anyone know?
I forget whose method for putting on and adjusting the door on but it works really well for me. @ layers of corrugated taped to the jamb and bottom. Attach the door to the locking latch. Adjust the door to the desired position and tighten all the bolts. It worked for me initially. Gap was exactly how I wanted and the door worked very well. Updates coming.
I finished texture painting the inside of the hardtop. I will secure the headliner and then secure on the car.6782067821678226782367824678256782667827678286 7829

[insurance guy]

help arrived over the weekend so I was able to put the top back on the car. The studs to attach work well , I had to make the holes in the body frame larger to have some adjustment. The ffr trunk is to wide to use with hard top as you see inside the trunk. I will fabricate a smaller one.67897678986789967900679016790267903

[AZPete]

Nice intercooler plenum. I've got to learn how to make fiberglass stuff. One reason is to extend my A pillars down like your newer/improved hard top.

[insurance guy]

fiberglassed revised trunk
I will hang the trunk from studs epoxy'd to the hard top
Carpeted interior
Bedliner on sides subject to elements67992

[AZPete]

Alan, how are you controlling the exhaust heat on the right side from making toast of your trunk? I'm thinking wrap and heat shield on mine, but open to ideas.

[RM1SepEx]

Pete, I used a spaced thin aluminum heat shield between my exhaust and the trunk. I used that gold reflective heat tape as a radiant barrier and my trunk has no heat issues. Even a 1/2 inch air gap between the exhaust and the shield and another 1/2 between the shield and the trunk will work. Put the gold reflective tape on the hot side of the shield and the trunk

[insurance guy]

after the comment regarding heat, I covered the outside of the trunk with a reflective HVAC material. It has a little insulation and a foil outside. The trunk will be about 6 inches away from the exhaust. If I see any major heat there I will attach a metal heat shield. I carpeted the interior of the trunk and now just waiting for time to install it.
I made a new version of the intercooler airbox. used foam board to build the model. Covered the model in duct tape ( epoxy resin does not stick to duct tape) used four layers of fiberglass cloth. The resulting box was exactly what I was looking for.
I primed and painted the hardtop back wall. Really did not know what to expect with the window installation. I sprayed wd-40 along the channel and inserted the glass. I did not really like the tool so I tool a nylon mixing stick and ground it to a thin spatula shape. it took less than 5 minutes and the glass was installed. I was completely surprised, so much so that I spent 10 minutes trying to determine if I had did it correctly.
68107681086810968110681116811268113681146811568116

[insurance guy]

continues work on air box , using 2 inline marine vent fans to push air through intercooler. need to mount fans and wire them.
Its hard to see the rear hinge as I paint everything black.
If you paint it black it disappears
6815568156681576815868159

[insurance guy]

After further inspection it appears that while I had no problem putting the glass in the inside rear wall, the rubber gasket needs to have the lock seam pushed under. Guess its back to the drawing board. It was to easy, that's why I went back to it.

[insurance guy]

I finished the hardtop firewall. The locking rubber went in fairly easily with a few sprays of wd-40. The tool provided works very easily. I decided to use the trim provided and not cut around the small recesses. After a test fit it seals pretty well. I am leaving the headliner for last. Received the updated harness from I-wire so I can start to reassemble the car.682206822168222

[wicked93gs]

continues work on air box , using 2 inline marine vent fans to push air through intercooler. need to mount fans and wire them.
Its hard to see the rear hinge as I paint everything black.
If you paint it black it disappears
6815568156681576815868159

I have just registered here, but I have been following your thread for quite awhile. I am a big fan of your build. That being said you may want to reconsider having fans push the air through. I don't know how efficient the roof scoop is at scavenging air, but it looks fairly effective and will create a ram-air effect...there will be higher pressure in your air box than underneath it...you will have plenty of airflow with your ducting. Pusher fans will just be an obstruction to the airflow and add unneeded weight and wiring. If you feel fans are needed, I would instead install them on the other side of the intercooler in a puller configuration. If I were you though, before I did either I would install IAT sensors on both inlet and outlet of the intercooler and log the difference to calculate efficiency. I believe you would find the installation of pusher fans inside your airbox to restrict airflow though....at least that will be the case assuming that the roof scoop scavenges a decent amount of air.

[UnhipPopano]

If we are correct, the fans are for when you are in traffic and their may not be enough air flow. Would not the ECU account for high inlet temperatures? If you need a fan, is there any fans small enough to fit directly on the inter-cooler similar to a radiator fan? If you put the fans on the discharge side, using Wicked's idea, would it not also reduce the air flow?

[wicked93gs]

In traffic the intercooler is irrelevant since the turbo isn't compressing air, since that's where most of the heat comes from. Aside from heat caused by compressing air, the only other heat is radiant heat from the turbine side of the turbo. As for it being a restriction on the back side of the intercooler..it is indeed...but at least it's a restriction after the fresh air has had a chance to do it's heat exchanger duty.

[insurance guy]

Thanks for the info
I will hold off fitting fans but have the wiring their just in case.
I received the updated harness from iwire and will work on getting that installed this week end
Pics to follow

[wicked93gs]

Thanks for the info
I will hold off fitting fans but have the wiring their just in case.
I received the updated harness from iwire and will work on getting that installed this week end
Pics to follow

There are other ways than fans to create velocity though. This method won't work for you with your intercooler where it is, but in theory it's worth trying:
About 10 years ago I built a turbo dodge neon...fun little car, but I was having trouble with evacuating the crankcase. I didn't want to hook the PCV from the valve cover into the vacuum fitting for that purpose on the intake since that method tends to contaminate the inside of the intake manifold with oil. An old hot rodder friend of mine tipped me off to a solution...run the hose off the PCV valve an let it hang under the car. The dead air space underneath the car acts like a vacuum...drawing air through the hose. It worked like a charm...no oil in the intake and the crankcase was evacuated just fine. Maybe not the most enviromentlly friendly solution, but the principle is sound...use the vacuum under the car to draw air through the intercooler. To make use of that particular quirk though...you would have to duct the air leaving the backside of the intercooler under the car even with the bottom of the frame....not practical with your intercooler location, but worth remembering if you feel you need more efficiency. To be truthful, your ducting is excellent and I don't think you will have any heat soak issues at all.

[insurance guy]

I epoxy'd studs to the underside of the hardtop to mount the top. Using the existing mounting holes to draw the hold down and keep it secure. DO NOT OVERTIGTEN. This will give you a wavy appearance while looking down the body line. Easy does it

[insurance guy]

working multiple parts at the same time.
The trunk is finished and mounted. pics show aluminum mounting frame. truck is screwed to that. bulb molding seals the truck. Aluminum foil mat should protect it from heat. The rear hatch install provided some challenges as the gas struts are overkill without the glass installed. I need to trim the hatch slightly so its the same size as the glass. The hinge does not seem to keep position no matter how hard I tighten t. ANY IDEAS. working on the interior wiring for the electric windows. IWIRE does a great job. Sending the new front end metal for powder coating.
The hard top does not sit properly , need to pull down parts , will epoxy studs to underside and draw it down. it tends to distort the body slightly. will see how to fix that issue.
I did not put bulb molding on the interior firewall, it raised the hood to a point that was too noticeable. Will seal the backside with silicon to prevent engine gas infiltration.
After reading a few replys , I will NOT use the fans for the airbox. will instead move them to the front bay and have air directed into cabin.68305683066830768308683096831068311683126831 368314

[insurance guy]

tried to put the flocked glass window molding around the hard top lip. It seems to be thicker than the molding. Anyone else have an issue with that?
Either I have to get larger molding or thin down the lip.

[insurance guy]

things are starting to come together. The new front end aluminum was powder coated. I used cleco's to place them until I am ready to rivet them in. I had to remove the bolts that come with the wing mounts and weld them. there is no way to move them up as the bolts are in the way. I was told by FFR it is a design flaw. I attached studs to the underside of the new top to bring down some high spots in the body line. I will show before and after pics after the epoxy cures. All the Iwire upgrades were installed, only thing left is the headlights.686246862568626686276862868629686306863 1

[insurance guy]

the studs epoxy'd to the hard top worked very nicely to bring the high points in line.
I finished the airbox and will be installing it
I noticed a large gap with the new hard top and door
this needs to be addressed. Spoke with AZPETE and he is also working on a solution686566865768658686596865668660686616866268 663

[AZPete]

"Spoke with AZPETE and he is also working on a solution"
Alan is correct that I have the same problem gap, but I don't have a solution . . . yet. OMG, the pressure! If anyone has an idea, please step up.

[07FIREBLADE]

All coupes are gonna have that gap because the tops meant to be removable and the way the doors swing out from under the top not away from a surface. I think ffr should provide that aluminum piece with the kit. Maybe instead of installing it horizontally it can be bent 90° downward where it meets the dash. It would be cleaner then having the aluminum exposed covering the dash.

[AZPete]

Flynntuna reminded me that the gap is filled with the donor mirror in a by-the-book build. Alan, if you going to use the donor mirror the problem will be solved.

[insurance guy]

started to install the doors, all the little details are starting to be done.
I can adjust the hardtop height about 1" but then the fiberglass in the front does not sit on the frame.
I really don't want to pull out the grinder to make space for the door.687016870268703687046870568706687076870868709 68710

[insurance guy]

started to work on the doors. Remembered how much trouble they gave me the first time. The steel frame from the new hardtop is different from the coupe. I will have to fill the holes from previous install. Putting aluminum strip behind the door will provide more holding strength for the screws. I will epoxy a strip of aluminum to the door cards where they attach to door skins.
completed the intercooler airbox. very happy with the results. I will see how this works before using the marine fans.6876968770687716877268773

[AZPete]

I see you have mounted the power window mechanism into the door - looks fine. As a heads-up, the manual says simply "cut the door" for the window glass, but I screwed up, and I know of 2 other guys who did the same, by cutting a straight slot in the top pf the door. The glass is curved, so the slot must be curved. See post #34 of the Hard Top Install Tips thread.

[wicked93gs]

The easiest way to test the efficiency of the intercooler with a ducted setup without installing actual air intake temp(IAT) sensors I guess would be to intentionally try to heat soak it(multiple runs under moderate boost without a lot of time to cool down in between....simulating what it would see on a drag strip for instance). Then remove the ducting and use an infrared thermometer to get a temperature for the intercooler inlet and outlet. That should give you an idea how well the ducting is working and whether you need to add the fans. Another way to improve the intercooler efficiency would be to use an intercooler sprayer. A lot of these sprayers use nitrous as the cooling agent(expensive), but co2 works as well, as do various other gasses. The sprayer wouldnt be needed in most conditions anyway, only in those conditions that would normally heatsoak an intercooler which are limited to racing.

[07FIREBLADE]

So jealous that you have a newer hardtop. Thanks for the photos they really help show the detail of how to fix mine. And your intercooler box is looking really good.

[insurance guy]

glad to help
I am having lots of issues with mounting the top. It would have been better to loosen the side sails and rear bumper and then attaché top to align everything correctly. I had to put a few studs on the underside to draw down the top so it followed the contours correctly. I see lots of places that FFR did not address with a "finished" look. There is a large gap behind mirror. I have to figure a way to seal rear glass firewall to prevent engine gases coming into cockpit.
I am going real slow with windows. I am also retrofitting the new nose. Also taking my time. Do you have pics of your build?

[AZPete]

Alan, I had the same challenge sealing the window wall. Unlike the manual, I made five elongated holes at the bottom of the window wall that matched the five 1/4" bolts I had at the top of the rear firewall. Then, I put the window wall in place, pushed it up tight against the ceiling, then tightened the five bolts. Once it was as I wanted it, I drilled holes through the window wall and re-mounted the seat belts.

Next, at the top corners and along both sides there were gaps I filled by screwing on aluminum strips with bulb seal on the outside edges.

If the top doesn't want to fit in some places, try to "encourage" it with tape or weights, then let it "learn" the new position. After a while, maybe encouraging it a little further, the fiberglass will remember. Warmth helps, like all day in the summer sun, not a heat gun.

[insurance guy]

I kept putting it off. Mounting the doors. I was not looking forward to it. It went surprisingly well. The door frame for the hardtop is slightly different than the previous one I have. A few holes had to be repositioned on the skin. All in all it went w. I use paint sticks for the gap and tape them every 9 inches. The latch is attached and door frame with skin is put on body. The bolts to the door/hinge are centered and tightened with the aluminum end piece centered. then the hinge to frame is tightened. The skin is aligned how I want it. I use a sharpie to make the frame and holes on the back. Hinge to body is loosened and door is removed. Attach the skin to the frame where marked, tighten and counter sink bolts. Door is put back on. I had to lossen and move the skin slightly bit it really was not as stressful as first time.
I riveted the new nose aluminum and new top aluminum from Forma., I like the enclosed look.
Started to mock up the hood and new fenders and was really surprised at how well the pieces aligned. The gap is nice and the biggest problem everyone seems to have with the door , fender and windshield really looks good.
I will be c6888068881688826888368884688856888668887688886888 9utting and trimming very carefully not to mess this up.

[insurance guy]

working on the door latches and locks. I found this went easier than I anticipated. I am missing a few pieces to complete the install. I am having a little difficulty getting the key to unlock , but it looks likes its just an adjustment issue. Windows next6892868929689306893168932

[insurance guy]

had a little trouble with the lights. The 2 epoxy's that I used to mount the headlight for some reason did not hold the tabs. I used a product called "goop" which seems to hold . Drilling the holes for the headlights was a little challenging as I have no help to hold the bucket. Spent way to much time trying to center the bucket just right. Result was acceptable. Spent the better part of 2 days trying to get the fenders to line up. I am sure that the fenders are not mirror images of each other. I ended up with what I think is a symmetrical look. Joining the new fenders to the front grill seemed easy until you find there is no room to drill the hole and then you have no room to place the nut in the rear. I had to sand both the fender ( a lot) and the grill to get them to line up as described in the guide. I still need to attach the fender on the top by the windshield, I will need spacers as the fender is about 3/4 of an inch higher than the tab. Pushing the fender down causes it to flex too much. I had the same issue with original fenders. Problem look to be the hood. I test fit and the part yt the grill lines up perfect , the rear by the windshield shows the unsquareness of the frame ( or lousy measuring by me). I will leave that till the end, I saw a thread where someone cut a slice in the hood to adjust it to fit. I will probably try that as I have all the bodywork to do. The parting lines are quite pronounced and I wanted to try my hand at body filler and sanding. After I screwed the grill and fenders I used gorilla tape around the inside edge. This I hope will keep the moisture out and away from headlight. I will also fabricate a Piece of aluminum to prevent road dirt from finding its way in the back of the headlight.6936969370693716937269373693746937569376 6937769378

[insurance guy]

6937969380693816938269383

[UnhipPopano]

I hope you have better luck with Goop holding than I have had, but it did work for my sneakers. What is your plans for attaching the lenses and then being able to replace the lights? Also, when the hood is matched up with the fenders, what do the gaps look like?

[07FIREBLADE]

You might have to tweak your door handle bracket once you get the window in place. It will get more complicated once you try getting the window lined up and seated correctly. Good luck with the headlights. I went a different route and decided to just bolt the headlights to the fender by installing rivnuts in the buckets. Easier install, but you have to crack the lenses if you want to remove the buckets. Not that big of a deal for me honestly.

[insurance guy]

my gaps to the hood are fine on the bottom and not good on the top. I will do some minor surgery after the rest of the vehicle is complete. I am not setting the fenders until the windshield is installed. I wish I had attached the window molding while the top was off the car. I have to sand the edge down to .25 or as close as I can. Passenger side fit fine after the sanding.
Lots of body work to do on the new front end and hardtop.
nothing at all like this on the "s" version.6945869459694606946169462

[insurance guy]

after putting on the window molding I must have measured 10 times. I used the instructions from AZPETE for cutting the door skin for the window. Using his instructions I undercut just in case. after the initial cut , the edge of the skin is extremely flimsy, I clamped a wood strip to top and bottom of the skin so I could sand and file the opening to accommodate the glass. It actually came out better than I anticipated. I will have to expand the slot to fit the edge molding. 69550695516955269553695546955569556695576955869559

[insurance guy]

still working on windows6975869759697606976169762697636976469765

[flynntuna]

Looking like you know what your doing :cool: it looks awesome.

[insurance guy]

LOL
not a chance
if not for the forum and you guys I would have never been able to get past the inventory.
I sit in my garage and measure 18 times before I cut, and even then I measure again.
what I can do is provide one valuable piece of information
GO SLOW
what's the rush to finish.
if you finish it
then you are looking for another project.

[insurance guy]

rear hatch proved to be a challenge. I taped the rear glass to the hatch and then was able to adjust the hinges through the opening where the side glass goes. After it was tightened down, I drilled a small hole through the 2 hinge pieces and put a small bolt in. This keeps the hinge from rotating. a few minor adjustments still need to be done but the hatch opens very easily and seals when closed. I put the seats back in and put the dash in ( still waiting for front windshield to be installed so dash is not attached permanently)
I put battery cable on to check all the electrical. SUCCESS, I love the IWIRE harness.
NEW LIGHTS are super bright and really nice. Electric windows work. I am in business now.
I still have to put door windows in and adjust.
But car is once again drivable.69916699176991869919699206992169922

[insurance guy]

Getting the electric windows to align properly has been a time consuming challenge.
all day Saturday and Sunday, does not look good, take it apart
back to square one

[insurance guy]

I had the glass installed yesterday
The installer was impressed at the accuracy of the glass and fiberglass frame. There was no way to have a rubber trim put on as the fit was so close.
The hatch glass was a snap.
I will have the side windows installed at a later date, I need the70186 opening to adjust the hatch and gas strut movement

[mikeb75]

looking good

[AZPete]

Now that the windows are in, the car feels snug, doesn't it? The glass made mine feel like a real car. Wait, it is real isn't it?

When I had my windshield installed, the Safelite guys told me most modern cars don't have a rubber gasket and after looking at a bunch of cars, they are correct. There's a narrow gap around the outside edge that seems to cause no problems on production cars, so I'm good with it.

I was able to adjust my hatch after you sent photos, Alan. Thanks. I was able to adjust the hinges and struts with my side quarter windows installed.

[insurance guy]

LOL
I am 5'7" 160#
I got stuck trying to get out.

I wonder how you taller guys do it

[AZPete]

Alan, it takes practice to fold up like a pocket knife to get in, and out. I'm 6'3" 220 lbs.

[brian b 36]

I had my glass installed and when i went to the body shop for paint he took all the glass baxk out so i had to install it 2 times

[insurance guy]

I was adjusting the hatch with the glass and one of the strut attachments dislodged from the mount. ( flimsy set up anyway) When one went , the second quickly followed. Then I had a problem at both doors. I was adjusting the window and leaned on the door body panel, I heard the fiberglass on the aluminum angle pop off. Then there is the issue with the glass hitting the metal linkage to open the door. I stopped work and immediately did what was recommended by AZPETE. I opened a cold one.
I spent yesterday working on the problems. Used rivnuts to install the strut brackets. I think they will hold better than just the screws in the fiberglass. I moved the mount lower so the hatch does not open as high. I till need to adjust the hatch , the picture shows the height I have. I think its to high.
I rilled and counter sunk bolts to hold up the angle piece to support door skin. I drilled in 4 places and will make it disappear with bondo. Now it will not give way. I will do the same for the other side. I ground the linkage trying to prevent the window from hitting it. . Had to bend it slightly , I also wrapped it in felt. it does not scrape, I will watch this. I am going to make the slot for the window larger. I am not happy with the way the rubber lays.
I had a friend stop by who is a body man for 40 years, he showed me best way to remove the parting lines and encouraged me to try to do the body work myself. Guess I am learning a new skill. What a dirty , dusty job this is going to be.70600706017060270603706047060570606706077060870 609

[insurance guy]

70610706117061270613

[BN]

Hi do you have a picture of the door latch instal on your door thanks

[insurance guy]

706147061570616
I will take some of both sides as they are now
here are some I had

[BN]

Do you have one from outside

[insurance guy]

70617

[turbomacncheese]

I stopped work and immediately did what was recommended by AZPETE. I opened a cold one.


This guy gives the best advice, right?

[insurance guy]

I painted a black edge around the headlight lens cover. I was going to paint the inside of the cover but worried that they would pop off if the paint comes away from the plastic. I now worry that the paint will scratch and look bad. Any thoughts?
I am happy with the new attachment of the strut hinge. I used rivnut instead as the screws into the fiberglass failed. I continue to thank all the people that share their ideas an help, it makes this build easier and I meet new friends.7081470815708167081770818708197082070821

[UnhipPopano]

Thought - You did remember to lightly sand the plastic before you painted it, right? If this paint scratches, how would anyone see it if it did not go through to the clear plastic? If it did, why not do a light touch up?

[insurance guy]

arghhh
I guess I will be repainting those soon enough

[BN]

Hi did you cut the door where the latch is so it does not hit the striker?

[insurance guy]

I don't understand where you mean
can you send photo
the kit had a pattern for the latch and I used that.
I had to trim a little metal as per the instructions , I used a step drill bit and file

[insurance guy]

thanks to mikeb75 for the pics, a little cutting and my windows are exactly they way I want them. Only thing I am looking for is a rubber reveal for the other side of the window that would really finish off the edge.
I am still playing around with drivers door lock.708597086070861

[insurance guy]

I really dislike the way the front hood closes and needs to be stiffer. I will attempt to resolve the issue. I purchased a 5' 1 inch fiberglass angle from Mcmaster Carr. Every 2" I cut a slit on one side. now the angle is able to take a shape. I covered my fender with duct tape and clamped the fiberglass to the edge where the hood lays. What I am trying to do is have the shape of the fenders and fiber glassing that angle to stiffen the hood. After clamping I cut 1" pieces of fiber mat and epoxied to the made slits to hold the shape. After curing I removed the angle and did the other side of the angle. 70953709547095570956709577095870959I am waiting for this to cure.
More to come

[Hindsight]

Cool idea to get the shape of the hood curve off of the fender. I've had hood stiffening on my to-do list for some time and have just never gotten around to it. Let us know how it works out.

[insurance guy]

after the angle cured I used epoxy resin and fiberglass to secure it to the hood. I still have to do the other side but I cannot believe how much more rigid the hood has become. Test fitting it on the car. It fits much better as the hood conforms to the fender shape perfectly.
I will have more pics when other side is complete710577105871059710607106171062

[BN]

71080
Hi did you cut the door where the latch is so it does not hit the striker?

[insurance guy]

used a cylindrical grinder bit on drill. Finished with hand files

[BN]

Did you finish your door like me

[insurance guy]

same way

[BN]

Ok but mine rubs on the strike and I have more than paint stick thick and I file down the screw of the strike

[insurance guy]

Now I understand what you are asking.
I cut the fiberglass door skin until it no longer hit the striker

[BN]

Does it still look good?.

[insurance guy]

finished attaching the fiberglass angle to the hood. I am quite please with how much more solid the hood feels. It also conforms better to the shape of the fenders. What was looking like a huge amount of cutting to get the hood to sit neat in the space has become a minor sanding job. If your hood is not the way you like consider adding formed stiffners. It was a very easy fix.
I purchased a new steering wheel and hub that allows me to remove the steering wheel. So much easier to get in and out of the car.
Used structural adhesive to attach aluminum angle to the inside of the doors. I want an easy way to remove the panels to adjust electric window.
7190571906719077190871909719107191171912cutting the edge off the door panels was a little tricky but using table saw and going very slow worked out.

[turbomacncheese]

Holy clamps, Batman!! I need to up my clamp-game. Nice work on the hood!

[insurance guy]

I built a cedar strip canoe so I have boxes of clamps of all sizes. makes it easy to do most jobs.
I am having issues aligning my passenger side window. The driver side is almost perfect. Upon closer inspection I see the electric window unit on passenger side is much different than the drives side. There seems to be missing clips that hold the window base. This seems to cause the window to constantly move. Send email to Factory Five for help.
I need to replace that unit and finish the doors.

[insurance guy]

no one sees it with door closed
I keep the door closed

[insurance guy]

I wanted to be able to remove the inner door panels easily to adjust the electric window and I wanted a better edge. Using a table saw I removed the bottom and side edge of the inner door liner. I used acetate adhesive to attach aluminum angles to the door fiberglass as a support for door lines. a rubber edge was put around the door inner liner. I used Velcro to attach the door liner but I think I will drill and tap holes in the aluminum angles to provide a stronger pressured attachment. I am very happy with the result. The door mechanism needs tweaking so the ability to take the liner off allows me to skip the adjustment and actually us the car. One of my electric window units was missing clips to keep the window in place. No wonder I was unable to get the adjustment.7222872229722307223172232

[insurance guy]

having issues getting the electric windows and door locks to work and look good.
I found a set of electric door looks and now will change the locks over to electric. Looks like slight modifications but is doable. The manual door locks were just not working right. I hope electric will be better.
I purchased the Docooler electric controller and will try to install that.

[CdnCarNut]

Holy clamps, Batman!! I need to up my clamp-game. Nice work on the hood!

^^ You can never have too many clamps! I used to hear that on a woodworking show, but it also applies to the garage.

[Harley818]

I can see a cedar strip interior coming......

[insurance guy]

What do you think? I can do the inner door skins and center console.
Here is Canoe that I built
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quhOjs2rdwc

[wirenut]

I think the mystery of the clamp is solved. ;)

That canoe turned out great!

[insurance guy]

converting to electric door locks was real easy and glad I did
it is so much easier than trying to get that manual key mechanism to work properly
Took the unfinished car to local car show
no one had any idea what it was
72912729137291472915

[AZPete]

Alan, I'm glad the electric locks gave you no trouble. Be sure to make some sort of manual unlock in case of a dead battery.

[Frank818]

Alan, I'm glad the electric locks gave you no trouble. Be sure to make some sort of manual unlock in case of a dead battery.

True! Trust him! He's not saying this for nothing! :)

[insurance guy]

can you share a pic or how you set that up? I am interested on how it looks by the wheel well
thanks

[AZPete]

can you share a pic or how you set that up? I am interested on how it looks by the wheel well
thanks

Alan, here's how I ran a cable from the latch unlock lever forward to the left front wheel well for the manual unlock.
72998
72997
(it's a secret unlock so don't tell anybody. :eek:)

[insurance guy]

its been a while since my last post. I have really not touched the car. I started doing the body work for paint but is BODY WORK , ugh.
I have obtained a SMART ELECTRIC and will attempt to do a transplant. Take the entire electrical drive, battery pack, heat, a/c and transplant it into the 818.
I will have to remove all body panels and have them painted while the transplant is taking place.
I have no idea what issues I will face , I am not even sure if it will work.
It will produce plenty of parts.
I will try to video this entire experience and post it online.
more to follow

[Brett33]

Hey insurance guy. I am still interested in the old front end if it is available. I am sorry I haven’t been in contact you know Life and trying to fix the previous owners mistakes have gotten in the way.

Brett

[insurance guy]

I understand
front end still waiting for you

[insurance guy]

The Smart was delivered yesterday
Cant wait to start deconstructing the both vehicles.
Anyone needing Motor, transmission and other combustible engine parts let me know.

[insurance guy]

I just cannot find the time or enthusiasm anylonger.
I am looking to sell my 818C
I will take 12,000 for everything
I upgraded front end and installed hardtop
I still have original front and parts for convertible.
I am in Belmar NJ
its a steal at this price
car is registered and licensed and drivable.

[AZPete]

Oh no, Alan! I've been learning some things from you. What happened to the Smart car? Did you do a transplant? Your selling price is certainly a great deal for someone, but I'm sorry you are leaving us.
Pete

[insurance guy]

I wish I knew more about electrical engineering. The smart documentation is minimal and breaking the cam codes is currently beyond my ability. I mounted electric components on bench and continue to try to get it working. I have no room to keep 818 in garage. I started body work, but really find that really dull and painful work. I am busy welding furniture and looking for other projects. I would never drive the car when complete and would rather take the funds and purchase a Tormach 1100 CNC machine.
I enjoy the builds. I did the same thing with the 2 boats and paddleboard I built. Completed and sold them.

[DND]

Is the gasoline motor and transmission still in the car and is it still streetable or is some reassembly needed after the electric venture?

[insurance guy]

car is drivable , complete engine and trans.
It was not removed , It would have been if electric was able get operational.

[insurance guy]

I sold the 818 and it is being picked up tomorrow.
I took on this project not because I am any sort of car enthusiast but more because of the challenge.
The project was by far the best build project I have yet to do. I have built boats and canoes, converted cars from gas to electric and build furniture. What made this project the best was this forum. I want to thank all the people that responded to my calls for help and the encouragement and good words I received from everyone. I would never have been able to complete this without all of you.
To many to name.
Thanks again
I might be back as I always have that itch for a new project.

[Mitch Wright]

Alan, Congratulations on the sale, the buyer has gotten a great deal on a car that was put together by a craftsman.

[longislandwrx]

Sorry to see you leave.

If you get the itch to turn a wrench on the 818 again hit me up, take the drive to LI and enjoy some drinks.

Maybe we'll even work on the car for a few minutes.

Jeff