tail lights/blinkers help

[TrickyPete]

I'm wiring up the rear lights to the 818 and I've got an issue. I have the blinkers working but when I press the brakes, they override the blinkers and the blinker light on the cluster turns solid. When I press the brake without the blinker on, the turn indicators on the cluster light up. I have the blinker and the brake both hooked to the brighter filament and the running lights to the dimmer filament(which don't turn off. But that's another problem lol)
Am I brain dead and have this hooked up totally wrong?

[wallace18]

The turn signals go to the white back up/ turn light that is smaller in size. The stop/tail lights go to the larger red rear light. You have it mixed up for sure. But it should be easy to fix.

[AZPete]

Like he said, but if the small LED light is the wrong color, take it out and reverse it so you get white for reverse and amber for blinkers.

[TrickyPete]

Bah hahaha. I was wondering why they would make a clear non orange blinker... I never changed the bulb to the LED. My face is red. Thanks guys...

[TrickyPete]

I have another question. Bear with me...
I'm trying to get the reverse lights working now and I have the brown/yellow wire but I don't get voltage when I put it in reverse. Does anyone know where this gets power from or where it switches? Is it in the transmission or is there some type of switch that goes to the shifter?

[Jaime]

The reverse switch is one of the two cylindrical things at the back of the transmission on the driver's side.

[TrickyPete]

I'm going to guess its the one with 2 black wires. It must provide ground when the gear is engaged. Thanks again!

[wallace18]

I'm going to guess its the one with 2 black wires. It must provide ground when the gear is engaged. Thanks again!

No it will supply power when in R. Do yourself a favor and get a factory wiring diagram CD for the year of your donor. It will be a big help.

[Jaime]

It's a physical switch. Disconnect the connector and check for continuity across the switch terminals when in reverse. Also check the body-side connector to verify that it's getting 12V on the Green/Black wire when the ignition is on. If those both look good, supply 12V to the Brown/Yellow wire on the body side of the connector - if the reverse light doesn't come on, then the problem is probably how the light is wired.

[GUNS]

While we're on this subject, does anyone know where to get replacement connector pins that fit into the turn signal connectors?

[TouchStone]

Ask FFR I tried to get the part number from them but they just sent me extra pins.

[Buzz Skyline]

No it will supply power when in R. Do yourself a favor and get a factory wiring diagram CD for the year of your donor. It will be a big help.

Or head over to Ken Gilbert's page (http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals). He's got all the factory manuals available for free.

[AZPete]

Pete, I've just been there with back-up light problems. Get the wiring diagram. Test all parts, as above. I did all that and questioned my wiring work over and over until I isolated the switch on the tranny and found it was bad. Replaced it and cheered. Good news that my wiring was correct.

[TouchStone]

I think my tranny switches are bad as well, testing with a multi-meter shows that I never get continuity. The switches don't need anything funny like oil to work, right?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I think my tranny switches are bad as well, testing with a multi-meter shows that I never get continuity. The switches don't need anything funny like oil to work, right?
The transmission only needs to be in reverse.
Here is a picture of the switch and the cam the triggers it.
The other switch more aft is the neutral switch required by the Subaru ECU.
Bob

4205542056

Edit: There is some thick washer on these switches that properly shim the switch to the correct depth.

[TrickyPete]

I did all those things. I have continuity on the transmission switch but at the body side on the green/black I only have 4.5v.

[Jaime]

I just verified that mine reads 12V when the ignition is on. That green/black goes into a bunch of junctions and runs power to a lot of things. Are you checking it with the connector unplugged?

[TrickyPete]

Yes, I'm using a multi meter on the plug side that goes towards the body/tunnel/harness. It sounds to me like it might be shorted to the frame somewhere. Its really odd it would show such a low voltage though. I guess I could check to see if there is voltage going through the frame. And im not sure if i checked if i have 4.5v with the ignition off or not. I'll check more into it when I get out of work later.

[TrickyPete]

So I figured out the problem. I blew the fuse,hence the 4.5v and it keeps blowing it after about 10 to 15 minutes. Probably why I missed it the first time. Would it cause me any problems just to directly run power to the wire from the switch at the transmission? The brown/yellow wires go everywhere and if its shorting out some where's in the harness mess I'm hoping I can just bypass all that nonsense.
I positively see an IWire harness in the future after all these issues I'm having but it will have to wait until next year :(

[Jaime]

The green/black wire goes everywhere too.

Yes, you can get power from somewhere else, as long as it's only powered when the ignition is on. I did it with my heavily modified harness. Make sure the circuit you use can handle a few extra amps.