rmiller64
05-11-2015, 08:51 PM
I have read several posts where folks are having problems with full brake pedal travel and poor braking. I followed normal procedure of bleeding the wildwood master cylinders by returning the lines back into master reservoir and using the pump and hold method of bleeding the wheel cylinders on the stock brake package from FFR and still had weak braking quality. Still in build stages but have go-carted. I'm using the complete kit single brake fluid reservoir stainless polished with the aluminum knurled screw-on cap.
I purchased years ago a Motive Power bleeder for changing brake fluid in my BMW's and worked great. I had my brother make me a cap on the lathe out of UHMW to thread into and seal the reservoir. Added 2 pints of fresh brake fluid to pump canister and pumped the canister to 15 PSI. As you pressure bleed the wheel cylinders it draws fluid from the pressure canister into the reservoir. I was amazed at how much air was still in the system both front and rear. Once the air was out I had a firm pedal and brakes now work excellent. Will wait to set bias until I have body on and can drive.
Hope this helps those that have brake issues and have heard of pressure bleeding your brakes
418714187241873
I purchased years ago a Motive Power bleeder for changing brake fluid in my BMW's and worked great. I had my brother make me a cap on the lathe out of UHMW to thread into and seal the reservoir. Added 2 pints of fresh brake fluid to pump canister and pumped the canister to 15 PSI. As you pressure bleed the wheel cylinders it draws fluid from the pressure canister into the reservoir. I was amazed at how much air was still in the system both front and rear. Once the air was out I had a firm pedal and brakes now work excellent. Will wait to set bias until I have body on and can drive.
Hope this helps those that have brake issues and have heard of pressure bleeding your brakes
418714187241873