Windshield mounting questions

[jakester888]

OK, time to mount the windshield for the first time on a Mk IV build.

Question 1 : where are the mounting holes on the body which would hold the side brackets to the frame? I have the side brackets and feeding them down through the slits in the fiberglass (after boring it out a little with a dremmel) and holding the brackets approximately 50 degrees angled.... but I don't see or feel any mounting holes on the frame. The manual suggests they exist (page 358). Do I need to take the body off to find them? That doesn't make sense since I need the body on to position the windshield properly.

So where are the mounting holes? Picture please if you've got 'em.

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[jakester888]

Is this it? Passenger side.

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[jakester888]

That's got to be it. Found it on the driver's side also. Answered my own question.

Question 2 : Do I need to cut the windshield side brackets? Some folks on the forum suggest 1-1/2" or 2". I seem to remember from the build school they mentioned this also.

[michael everson]

Last I knew the passenger side needed to be cut as it interfered with the top of the foot box. Assemble the windshield, drop it in the holes and see how far the passenger side sticks up. Measure that and removed it from the end of the bar.
Mike

[FFinisher]

Also, when you slide the windshield down into the slots, check to see that the arms are mating to the chassis without space between the bars. If there is any spacing make sure you use spacers.

If you pull the bars in tight to the frame,without spacing... the Windsheild will break. Maybe not the day you install it. Maybe not a month from when you install it....... But it will break.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Question 2 : Do I need to cut the windshield side brackets?

I always cut 3" from them. As Mike mentioned you have to do it on the PS or it will hit the footbox top; on the driver's side it won't hit anything but will stick down into the box.

#1 most important thing when doing the windshield installation is to not squeeze the side bars inward when attaching it to the chassis. Get it into position and add shims (washers, body alignment shims, I've even used the 3" section that has been cut off) to take up the gap between the side bars and frame. You do not want to use the mounting bolts to pull the side bars the 1/4" or so inward to the chassis because it will stress the glass which I'm convinced is the leading cause of cracked windshields. The glass must stay relaxed.

Good luck,
Jeff

EDIT: See---Ron just told ya' the same thing; he just types faster than me ;)

[Avalanche325]

You can use a little of the spray adhesive that you use on the carpet to stick washers together for your spacers. It cuts down on bad words and loss of hair.

[MPTech]

FYI, I learned to tie a heavy piece of string around my wrenches when tightening the windshield bolts. They are extremely difficult to work on, on the passenger side, reaching into the engine bay and one time I dropped an open-end wrench and it almost fell between the footbox and body. That would have been a HUGE pain to retrieve!

[CraigS]

As indicated by all the above replies this is a real pain to do. Plan on at least 3 hours and, if it gets frustrating, back away and come back later. Also having a helper makes it go a little easier.

[edwardb]

Hopefully you left your side louvers removable? On the PS side, reaching through the vent hole is an easy reach for the windshield bolts. That combined with the other side accessible from the engine bay, makes the PS pretty easy. Now the DS, that's a whole other story. Nothing too easy there since everything is reached through the DS door and footbox area. During my last install, found a ratcheting combination wrench helped a lot to reduce the frustration level. And I agree, don't try this without help. That windshield is fragile enough as is, plus once you're installing it on the finished body, you really don't want it moving unexpectantly.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Easy way to do the passenger side is with the tire and splash panel off working from the wheelwell---beats the heck out of leaning over the fender working from the engine compartment. There is no easy way for the driver's side but I've found that what works for me is using a 12" long extension with a universal joint socket coming from the middle and a wrench holding the nut on the backside. It's a pain, not 3 hours worth of a pain but still no picnic. So you're not having to fumble with trying to keep washers in place stop by the paint/body supply store and pick up some door & fender shims for 1/2" bolts. They are "U" shaped with enough material on closed end that you can grasp to slip them into place to snug the windshield arm to chassis fit after getting the bolts started.

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQa5I6QkQZFUN6iFfTZXzFIaCXTHzG KOdk4O0bp8L9ELva4fOdljtb9CyoAPtC9pRT93mBDiK8&usqp=CAE

Several in a variety of 1/8" and 1/16" thicknesses will do it.

Good luck,
Jeff