Need a little advice on my engine build

[oldguy668]

Here's what I have:

1968 289 block, recently rebuilt before I bought it.
Stock crank, caps, rods, new stock pistons and rings.
Since the rotating assembly was recently redone, I decided to use it for budgetary reasons
Rebuilt stock distributor with Pertronix conversion (for appearance reasons)
TrickFlow heads. TrickFlow says I'm okay with the stock pistons to .540 lift and 228 duration
Weiand 4 barrel manifold with Holley 670 vacuum carb

Here's what I need:
Gasket set
Cam bearings
Camshaft
Timing chain set
Rocker arms
Lifters
Pushrods (custom length I presume)

My understanding is that I have two choices, small base circle cam with standard roller lifters or a regular base circle cam with linked lifters. It looks like the small base circle setup runs about $200 less that the linked lifter setup.

Here's the question: Shall I get a cam that will work for me now and replace it when I put the 331 rotating assembly in next year or shall I get something that will work well with the larger displacement later even though it might not be ideal now? If I get the less expensive small base circle setup, can I get a grind that will work with my lift and duration restrictions? What are your recommendations? Do I have to get the head gasket set from TrickFlow? Shall I wait on the pushrods until the length can be measured or can it be computed?

[AnthonyS]

Tough decision really. I wish you were closer. I have a spare 302 roller engine short block that could be reringed and new bearings and ready to go for cheap I'd donate to your cause so you could use a 5.0 roller cam. With those heads and less than 302 cubic inches the Trick Flow stage 1 is a good cam for off the shelf. Once you start in with small base circle etc. you are pretty much looking at a custom cam. If you are going to use the same exact block for your 331 build, then I'd get the right cam for the 331 the first time. If you are going to change blocks then I'd get the cam for the engine you have now. Since you may be running a custom cam or unusual cam in a 289 block with TFS heads, I'd measure the pushrod length once assembled. It's not like you are replicating a common setup and can just copy the pushrod length and go.

[oldguy668]

The People's Republic of Massachusetts is forcing me to use a pre-74 block, so I'm playing the hand I was dealt.

[Bob Cowan]

Changing the cam is really no big deal. You can do it in an afternoon. If you're going to completely disassemble the engine later, than swapping the cam is nothing. Put in a cam that will match your goals now, and then change it when you need to.

As for the lifters, I'v been using standard dog bone style lifters forever, without any problems. I don't think there's any real advantage to one over the other for most people.

[oldguy668]

As for the lifters, I'v been using standard dog bone style lifters forever, without any problems. I don't think there's any real advantage to one over the other for most people.

You'll have to translate that into "engine-dumbell" for me. Do you mean a small base circle cam with that cage looking thing or linked lifters?

[Bob Cowan]

Yeah, the small base circle cam and the stock lifters with the cage. There are some small devices commonly referred to as "dog bones" that slip down over a pair of lifters and keep them aligned. That's the stock Ford design.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/cca-8135lg-1_ml.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-8135lg-1?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjwr6ipBRCM7oqrj6O30jUSJACff2WHPKvhqMBY 4dYPUF_3WhFNh6wLtsWqwvq5Cs5grzO9choCyNjw_wcB

installed in my engine.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/Spider.jpg (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/bobcowan/media/Spider.jpg.html)

[oldguy668]

Aha! Thanks for the picture. Any machine work required?

[AnthonyS]

Aha! Thanks for the picture. Any machine work required?

As far as I understand you just have to drill the lifter valley to accept the spring that holds all 8 of the dogbones in place. It's a pretty simple procedure.

Yes cam swaps aren't difficult, but custom small base circle cams can be expensive. That's why I say cam it once for the 331 unless you will be switching blocks then cam for the 289 first. Sell the entire block with custom cam and then build a complete 331 setup.

[Bob Cowan]

As he said, there are two 1/4" holes to drill and tap, not a big deal. Those holes are directly over the cam bearings, so be careful. only drill 3/8", and use a bottom tap. Or dill and tap before installing the cam bearings. Then use a thread sealant.

Also, there's needs to be room for the dog bones. Sometimes you have to grind the block a little to make room. You can test fit by putting the dog bone over the hole, and then putting the lifters through the dog bone and into the hole upside down. Test fit with both lifters in place, and make sure there's enough room for the dog bone to move up and down about 3/8".

The cost is generally a little bit less for the stock style lifters, depending on the parts you choose. But I went with the stock lifters because they have a better record for durability. Keith Craft uses stock lifters in his engines. His high performance lifters are modified stockers. But the link bar lifters can handle a lot more lift.

[NukeMMC]

If you are thinking of changing cam after the car is built, you may want to check the front c clearance and whether you may have to pull the radiator to swap cams.