Transmission Removal Options - MK III Roadster with TKO-600

[jcwheeler8921]

I have a need to remove the transmission from my MK III Roadster. It is a TKO-600 transmission, which is beefier than the T-5 I replaced. I've seen some posts previously on the forum indicating that this transmission (TKO-600) can be removed from the car, without removing the engine. If at all possible, that is what I would like to do (for obvious reasons). Can anyone confirm for me that this is possible? If so, are there any 'tricks' to getting it out. Can you recommend a process that works? Thanks. Jack Wheeler

[Bob Cowan]

I have a MII. To get the trans out out, I need to remove the engine.

I managed to replace the clutch once without removing the engine or trans. But it was such a pain in the ebhind, that I wouldn;t do it again. It's easier to just pull the engine.

[first time builder]

MK III yes, removable cross member.

Kenny

[edwardb]

It's technically possible with a Mk3. Do you have a lift and some help? Also easier if the transmission tunnel cover is removable. It takes some pretty specific steps of freeing the transmission and then the bell housing and twisting it out. Here are some pointers from the other forum:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/194551-tranny-pull-mk3-1-a.html

I personally haven't done it but heard/read enough to think if/when I need to do it, I'll be pulling the whole engine/trans assembly like Bob said. I had the engine assembly in and out of my Mk3 several times during the build. Other than draining fluids which is a bit of a pain, it's not hard and only takes a couple hours at most.

[Jester]

As stated above - best if you have a lift and proper access etc.

This is not recommended, however if you are in good shape and can lift the trans while lying on the ground and maneuver it while in an awkward position on your back it is possible.

I have done it on my Mk4 but I am not sure of the differences between the Mk3 & Mk4 - Note: I made the top of the trans tunnel removable for better access to the trans.

You should confirm the T5 & TK0 600 are the same length etc., first to insure they are interchangeable without any new parts (driveshaft etc).

If I recall correctly, this is what I had to do (I removed the bell housing/trans assembly):
- With the car on jack stands (front and back) ~ 18 inches off the ground,
- remove engine mount/frame nuts
- raise the engine with engine lift to remove pressure off the engine/frame mounts
- remove the shifter handle
- remove any transmission wiring connections
- remove clutch cable from the clutch pivot (bell housing)
- remove the drive shaft bolts and remove the drive shaft (have a plug ready for the end of the trans to stop the trans fluid leaking out - better yet drain the trans fluid before removing the drive shaft)
- remove the transmission support bracket (support the back of the trans with jack stand - should not need much support as the engine-trans are now supported by the engine lift)
- remove bell housing/engine block bolts
- lift the engine ~ 1/2 inch (or so) using the engine lift to allow the transmission to pivot towards the ground
- lying on your back under the trans slide the trans away from the engine block - note this is heavy and quite awkward - get ready for the weight once free from the engine
- I think that is all but I may have left out a few steps

This can be done in ~ 1 hr and reinstalled in ~ 1 hr. Removal is the hard part.

Good luck

[jcwheeler8921]

Thanks for all of your suggestions. I recently changed from a 351W to a new (except the block) 351C engine, and uprated my trans from a T-5 to a TKO-600. Everything is back in the car and works fine as far as fit. However, we didn't balance the clutch cover, resulting in quite a noticeable vibration. Therefore, I need to pull the trans to get the clutch and flywheel out to get the clutch balanced. Sounds like it is doable without removing the engine, so I plan to take a printout of these suggestions to my mechanic when I take him the car. He has lifts, transmission and engine jacks and lots of manpower available. Thanks again.

[first time builder]

Usually a clutch cover is very well factory balanced, as you sure thats your cause of vibration?

Kenny

[OVCobra]

jcwheeler - when you put in the 351 C did you re-use the flywheel from the 351 W? If so was the 351 W an early or late motor? 351 C were balanced to a 28.2 oz balance factor as were early windsors (289/302,351). Late model windsors (post 78?) changed to a 50 oz balance factor. Clutch covers are neutral balanced. IF THIS IS SO, DO NOT DRIVE OR RUN THE ENGINE...IT WILL BREAK THE CRANK.

Dave

[Mustang Man]

OV, that is incorrect. ALL 351W engines have ALWAYS been 28 oz balance. You are thinking of the 302, that after 1982 went from 28 oz to 50 oz balance...

28 oz is WAY more common. All 289s are, most 302s are, all 351W are, all 351C are, all 331/347 strokers are, etc.

Mark

[first time builder]

New Hot Rod magazine came today , story on the 28 VS 50 oz balance.
Kenny