Still in Planning Stage - can parts be changed easily later

[R Thomas]

I am going the donor route and plan on getting the car up and running in gelcoat for awhile. If I put the Mustang spindles-lower A arms and 4 link rear in how difficult would it be to swap them out for FFR spindles-lower A arms and 3 link rear when the body comes off for paint? Has anybody done this? Thanks in advance :) As many of you have gathered the budget for this build is going to be very tight. But more than that my Dad was a journeyman mechanic for most of his life and my early days involved lots of gasket scrapping and learning by osmosis. I like many let the dealers take care of the issues as the computer controlled fuel injection era started. Consequentially an eighties 302 doesn't scare me much, nor does the assembly part in fact I don't think I would be considering it if I didn't involve assembly. I'm a little scared of the wiring phase and currently reading some books to boost my confidence in that area. Additionally my son and I are headed for the Build school in May to bridge the technology gap that occurred while I was off raising a family. I have a 2011 Mustang Daily Driver, I also have a 97 Coupe 5-speed donor parked on the side of the house.

[edwardb]

Pretty doable.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Now that the 3 link panhard frame bolts in it's all simple wrench work.

Jeff

[j.miller]

All a matter of perspective. If you enjoy playing with cars...it's a breeze. If not....it's a chore. All very doable

[rich grsc]

Just my thinking, but if thats your intent, cheaper to it right the first time.

[skullandbones]

R Thomas,

I, too, went with a donor pallet. If doing it again I would choose the donor parts separately to get the best of each model. You will find it not much more expensive if at all (if you hunt and gather well). I drove my 4 link for over 2000 miles so that's not a bad choice. I went with a 5 link to replace it. You should definitely change to the 3 link if you plan on performance driving. The only thing I would recommend differently than your plan is the lower Mustang A arms. It is a good investment to get the FF lowers initially. It will save you some work and they look so much better. If you get the 50% sale, it's well worth it. If I remember correctly, there is some modification to be done on the Mustang A arms (hidden expenses of realigning etc). It's one of the things I avoided as to not make it look like a kit car. It depends on how tight your budget is at this point. I'm enjoying the tinkering with the roadster after the initial build probably more than the build itself. There is so much to learn about the handling of the roadster after you drive it a while.

Whatever you do, it will be fun even if you spend a little time redoing it. I think everybody has some "redos" in their project.

Good luck,

WEK.

[CraigS]

If you are going to plan on a 3 link upgrade later be sure to make the rear panel of the cockpit on the passenger side easily removeable. That mount for the frame end of the 3rd link needs part of the 4 link bracket cut out and then holes drilled etc. Really a pain from underneath. I've done this twice and would recommend trying to do the 3 link at the start.

[Jeff Kleiner]

No longer necessary on the Mk4 Craig; it's all direct bolt in now.

Jeff

[R Thomas]

Thanks to all that took time to read and reply, this really is an awesome group and very eager to help.

[CraigS]

Wow Jeff, FFR really is making improvements as the years go by. Good to know so I don't post inaccurate info again.

[Avalanche325]

My thoughts are to make sure you don't miss out on a sale where you can get the options for 50%. Work on your donor, disassemble, clean, refurb, and paint parts and time it to hit a sale. That will be the best for your budget in the long run.

I grew up in Myrtle Beach. Are you originally from there?

[Ray W.]

I lived in Myrtle Beach from Dec. 81 until 1990, and now I live about an hour and a half away, in Manning. I met my wife in Ocean Lakes. Small world. :-) Just to be on topic, I'm well past the original budget amount I had planned for my build. You reach a point where you've put so much time and money in, that it doesn't make sense to scrimp on things that will make your car last. I just ordered Alex's wheel liners, because I didn't think anything else, i.e. bed liner, etc, could better protect the fiberglass from rocks. That's just one example in hundreds. I only paid $750.00 for my engine. Add all the new parts, the intake and carb, the MSD box, the oil pan ($470.00 alone) and my engine cost has climbed to $2500. Probably more, because I'm sure I'm forgetting something. It's gone the same way with the rest of the build. Everything has cost more than I originally planned.

I haven't totaled up the receipts yet, but I have a feeling I'll be bumping on 30K by the time I finish doing the bodywork and paint myself. I might have saved some money using a donor, but that would also depend on the cost of the donor. I didn't go that route after reading so many posts about how bad it makes you feel to put worn parts on a new car. The only used parts on my car are the engine and the front spindles, and I have forgone almost every option, including power brakes and steering, and the heater. I did order the stainless bumpers, because I really wanted them and got them and the 3-link on sale. I've tried to save every penny I can. I used rustolem hammered paint on my aluminum panels instead of powder coat, and have been making my own parts in a lot cases. In all honesty, I don't think one of these cars can be built to a nice standard, without a donor, for less than 29 to 30K--and that's with you doing all the work yourself, including the bodywork and paint.




My thoughts are to make sure you don't miss out on a sale where you can get the options for 50%. Work on your donor, disassemble, clean, refurb, and paint parts and time it to hit a sale. That will be the best for your budget in the long run.

I grew up in Myrtle Beach. Are you originally from there?

[R Thomas]

Again thanks for all the help. Avalanche325 not from Myrtle Beach spent most of my life in the San Francisco Bay Area. Myrtle Beach however was the inspiration for my first convertible. Like the idea of timing after purchases with sales. Ray W thanks for your story, I'm sure there will be things that will go beyond the budget. A big part of why I figured I would be running in gel-coat quite awhile. I guess there are two main things driving my thinking. First I want to build it myself and second I'd like to see it be on the road in a reasonably short time so I can enjoy driving it. I am after all retired and the clock is ticking. After that I figure the paint and any upgrading I do can happen over a winter period when I wouldn't be driving it anyway. Ray if you care to PM I would love to come see your roadster. I pretty much have a totally free schedule.

[Ray W.]

R Thomas, I'm like you, and want to be on the road as soon as possible. The build schedule I had in my head isn't working out, so I'm going to be in gel-coat this summer. I'll do some of the body work while enjoying the car, then do the paint this fall when the temps are cooler. I'll send you a PM tonight. I was just on the computer because I ordered my driveshaft. I decided to check the board before going out to cut the grass. BTW- the driveshaft, $449 with shipping. Yet another part costing more than I thought it would, but an off the shelf one from Breeze won't work for my engine and trans combination.




Again thanks for all the help. Avalanche325 not from Myrtle Beach spent most of my life in the San Francisco Bay Area. Myrtle Beach however was the inspiration for my first convertible. Like the idea of timing after purchases with sales. Ray W thanks for your story, I'm sure there will be things that will go beyond the budget. A big part of why I figured I would be running in gel-coat quite awhile. I guess there are two main things driving my thinking. First I want to build it myself and second I'd like to see it be on the road in a reasonably short time so I can enjoy driving it. I am after all retired and the clock is ticking. After that I figure the paint and any upgrading I do can happen over a winter period when I wouldn't be driving it anyway. Ray if you care to PM I would love to come see your roadster. I pretty much have a totally free schedule.