At the beginning of the process ... a few questions [Archive]

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AverageIowaGuy

03-17-2015, 01:46 PM

Kpt112

03-17-2015, 02:18 PM

Hello average Iowa Guy,

I am embarking on my build as well and had many of the same questions as you. What I have decided is to go with a Ford 302 motor and a Tremic T5 transmission. I realized very quickly that the choices on all these items can really add up. (i.e larger motor more cost) I decided to spend my money on upgrades that will make this a pleasure to drive on the road rather that an uncontrollable beast. I am also going with Power Steering, Power Brakes and the optional IRS suspension. 500 HP sounds over kill if you are not going to race IMHO. Once you look at everything from the complete kit up be prepared to spend north of 40 to 50K. Just my opinion.

skullandbones

03-17-2015, 02:45 PM

Good suggestion to go with the small block push rod engine. Easy to work on (space to work) and maintain with many after market components for down the road changes. You will want to change as you progress with the driving experience. I think 300 to 310 rwph should make the thing scream. If you get a super T5, it should take that range of hp. You may want the IRS as it is considered the premium rear end but it's pricey and more complicated. I like the live axle with a 5 link or 3 link (good track and AX). 3:55 or 3:70 will give great response. I like the cruising capability of the 3:27. Everything is a compromise of sorts.

You will probably change your perception of the roadster as you put seat time in. No one can prepare you for the short wheel base high hp combination with all the advice in the world. You just have to do it. That's why starting with a reasonable amount of hp and increasing later is a very prudent approach. You will get all kinds of "oh sh**" moments without 500 hp. I've been lucky enough to survive those without mishaps so far.

You are making a great decision to go to the build school. The instructors should be able to give you a very good estimate of the time needed to build. It depends a lot on your free time and commitment. I had a hard time staying with the program so it took me much longer along with reading things on the forum and changing course (BEWARE!).

Power steering if you plan on any track and AX work along with the Heidt valve to help change the sensitivity of the feel of the wheel. It's a great investment. Also, will make those parking in tight places much easier. There are a lot of advantages to PS that you should consider by reading some of the associated threads. That will keep you busy for a while.

Good luck and stay the course,

WEK.

Pylons

03-17-2015, 02:51 PM

I attended the build school in Feb '14 and ordered a complete kit soon after that. I think my goals were/are similar to yours.

For power, here's how I looked at it. I had an LS3 C6 'vette. I couldn't really imagine what you do with more power than that car on the street. To have comparable power/weight, you only need low 300's hp in a FF Roadster. I went with the Roush 331SRXE, which dyno'd at about 360hp, 380 lb-ft...I have zero doubt that it's more than enough. Mine's paired with a TKO 600 and 3.55 rear end...it's not on the street yet, so I don't know if I picked "right" there, but I'm confident it will be fine (it may not be the greatest for highway cruising, but I don't anticipate doing much of that).

For build time: I got my kit Memorial Day weekend 2014. I had a buddy help me that first weekend with inventory and the first few steps. For the following 6 weeks or so, I did a good job with "do something every day," then started to fall off that wagon a bit. I had a roller 2 months in without any help other than that first weekend. Weekend after roller status, I had a buddy come and we got the drivetrain in and did some other things like brake plumbing. Not too long after that, cold weather and other things going on in my life intervened and I didn't do much at all from about Sep through Feb. A buddy came in Feb and we knocked out a whole bunch of electrical stuff and then I had first start a couple weeks ago. It's probably go-kartable right now, but I want to do a few more things before I actually try it. Now that I'm back into it, I hope I'll have it done (minus bodywork/paint) by the anniversary of the kit's arrival.

My build is mostly "stock," but I've done a number of things that the build school guys suggested (mostly small stuff, but they add up!).

AverageIowaGuy

03-17-2015, 03:14 PM

Wow thanks for the great replies! I'm sure the guys at the build school will have some good suggestions as well. I'm pretty certain that I'm NOT going to go with the 427. I've gotten that advice from several people who I trust. One is an autocrosser and he says he has never seen a ffr with a 427 complete a course.

What do you guys think about the Coyote for this? What would your thoughts be on going with a fuel injected engine vs. normally aspirated? I've got some experience with normally aspirated vehicles but not a huge amount. The only one I currently own is an '06 Triumph Bonneville that I took the airbox off, put new pipes on and re-jetted. Talk about an improvement in performance from stock. Wow!

68GT500MAN

03-17-2015, 03:25 PM

Welcome to the forum. The Coyote is a great choice for these cars and many have chosen to go this route. The pushrod small block has been the engine of choice for many years as it is easy to modify. Fuel injection is not a complicated problem, just a choice to make.
Doug

edwardb

03-17-2015, 03:30 PM

Both good questions and both talked about quite a bit. Especially the power and engine choice. In the end, it ultimately becomes a personal choice. There's no right answer. 300 - 400 HP yields a scary fast car. Don't ever forget you're only dealing with 2,200 - 2,300 lbs here. You don't "need" 500 hp, especially for street driving. There are many things to consider, but one of them is you will have a tough time hooking up that much power on the street. All the HP in the world doesn't mean anything without traction. On the other hand, if it's what you want, what you want to tell others about, etc., then it's your build. Go with it. And HP and driveability don't have to be mutually exclusive. It's all about engine components and setup. Low HP can be a pain to drive if not set up properly. Some people are very emotional about the "427" thing and don't feel they've realized their dream unless is truly 427 CI. If that's you you feel, then go for it. Just don't forget you can get to the CI with a 351 small block. Personally, if I was really going for that, it's probably what I would consider. Ford Racing has a nice crate motor version. Other choices as well. As already mentioned, some of this is going to be driven by budget as well. Very direct correlation between HP and cost. Not just the engine but everything else, e.g. clutch, trans, etc. I've gone small block with both of my builds. A warmed up 306 for my first build, and a 347 stroker for my second. I haven't driven the second one yet. It was just finished. But the 306 powered Mk3 was plenty fast. Yes, I get naysayers that look under the hood and turn up their nose because it's "not a 427." That's their problem, not mine.

Way too soon to talk about rear end ratios. You need to determine everything else, e.g. engine and HP, trans, tires, how you're going to drive the car, etc. Then the decision about rear end ratios starts to make more sense.

For power steering, two statements without further comment: First, my Mk3 didn't have power steering. I loved the car. But it's the single thing about the build I regretted. My Mk4 has power steering. Many add it or regret not having it. You won't find many (any?) cases where guys regretted power steering and removed it. Second, I always try to make this point. Don't only think about steering effort. It's also about front end geometry. With power steering, you can dramatically increase the amount of caster. This improves stability and centering, making the car easier and more pleasant to drive.

Regarding build time, this is another one that doesn't have a specific answer. Guys build them in a few months. Others take years. Depends on the build, e.g. how many mods, changes, etc. Also obviously depends on the experience and skill of the builder. But mainly I would say it depends on making a commitment to spend the time required and make steady progress. There's no way around it. These are a lot of work. Both of my builds have taken right at two years. That's working usually every evening if I was in town, and usually at least one day each weekend. Add in a few vacation days, holidays, etc. The key point is I tried to accomplish something each build session, and keep the build moving forward. I don't consider myself a fast builder because I'm still learning plus I'm kind of OCD and know I spend way too much time on certain details. But that's what I like to do. Plus for me it's not a race. But I still was able to complete in a reasonable time by just keeping at it regularly.

Dave Disque

03-17-2015, 03:46 PM

Hello,
I've made the decision to build an MK 4 Roadster. I'm in the process of moving but when I land in a couple months I will be about an hour and a half from the build school. I'm planning on attending later in the year, ordering a complete kit and the other necessary parts/equipment thereafter.

My goals for the project are to build a more or less stock MK 4. Only upgrades I am thinking of are Stainless pipes, chromed rollbar and brakes. I am tempted by power steering but haven't decided. I would like this to be driveable on the street. I have experience driving high horsepower vehicles and I have acquired some restraint over the years. I have no plans to race this car. If it ever did see racing it would be autocross. I would like to be able to buy readily available new parts. I have absolutely zero interest in scrounging for used parts or buying a donor car.

So here are a few questions
1) Engine/transmission/rear end: my id wants me to get a 427, because, well, ... 427. I'm told by some people who know that a 500+hp engine with that short of wheelbase can be problematic. 'Undriveable' is the word most commonly used. So barring the 427, what engine would you choose that would still have all the horsepower needed for occasional monkeybusiness but still leave you with a driveable car? What transmission/rear end would you pair with that engine? If you were to give in to the temptation, what transmission/rear end would you pair with the 427? Gear ratio suggestions for street use would be helpful. I am planning on trying to get a crate kit that I can basically just plug in from Mike Forte when the time comes. I haven't called yet, but as time gets closer I will.
2) If someone was motivated, sober, had all the parts, moderate mechanical ability and had taken the course, what is the build time like on something like this? I've read the manual and nothing in it seems too difficult, but obviously stuff comes up.

Thanks for any comments/suggestions.

I agree build school is an essential first step in the process, both for ideas and hands on experience. I received my complete kit in late August of 2011 and was inspected and on the road in early September of 2012. I worked mostly by myself and kept pretty busy at the project. I bought and had built a Ford 302, dino tested at 345 hp at the flywheel, used a new super T-5 and a 3 link 8.8 mustang rear at 3.27. I replaced the stock axles with Moser competition to accept the hp. and let the wheels and tires fit inside the rear fenders. The car is faster than 95% of the curiosity seekers I encounter and as stated above has all the power you need for the street to get into and hopefully out of trouble. Even with somewhat sticky Continental tires it is one foot depression away from breaking away.
I did not install power steering or power brakes and use a cable clutch. I like it that way but one thing that does is keep my wife out of the drivers seat. She has a beefed up Austin Healey Bug Eye Sprite so all is calm. I hang with some other Cobras and those with 427"s do confess to having too much power...could be the driver but the comment itself says something about a street car.
Good luck and I agree...stay the course.

AverageIowaGuy

03-17-2015, 05:04 PM

How difficult and expensive is it to add power steering and power brakes to the kit? I'm strongly considering it.

Kpt112

03-17-2015, 06:12 PM

I am buying my PS now. Here is surefire source Breeze Automotive (a vendor on the site.) #70563
Steering Rack, Remanufactured, Power, 3 Turns Lock to Lock, with 1" Rack Extenders, http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=445&cat_id=12

$339.00 bucks plus a PS pump. You can get them cheaper. Watch this video from FFR it talks about installing PS. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbfxy5nSGY0

Kpt112

03-17-2015, 06:15 PM

Also check this guy name Tim's build site. Really well done. I love the walnut dash he installed. I will do that as well.

http://www.timsroadster.com/index.html

You see the build unfold and it is almost like you were there for each step. Lots of pictures, very inspiring.

Enjoy Kevin

AverageIowaGuy

03-17-2015, 07:01 PM

first time builder

03-17-2015, 07:42 PM

I have only built one FFR but have built many other vehicles. I did not go to build school. I built a MK 3 with all new parts in 4 months including body and paint. The Car took most inovative improvement award at open house show. The MK 4 body is a lot less work than what the older bodies were. The one I builr was for a friend and $$ for engine was not important. He went with a Mitchell small block 427 about 500 HP to crank. The car is VERY VERY fast. Used a TKO 600. 3:55 gears in a ford 8.8 with FFR 3 link.
Had problems with the TKO. Mike Forte is the man to help you sort things out. A nice Ford crate engine and T5 would be the best bang for your buck. I dont feel power steering is needed at all. Power brakes are a good choice .
You will get many answers to your questions and the final choice is yours.
You made the best choice already, Factory Five !!!

Kenny

AverageIowaGuy

03-18-2015, 03:55 PM

Avalanche325

03-18-2015, 04:35 PM

When you say "427" do you mean a big block, or a 351 based stroker? If you are doing it for the magic number? It's not really the preverbal 427 unless it is a big block. A big block 427 is really 425 cubic inches anyway, and most Cobras actually had 428s. That is my take on the magic number, or as you can see, lack thereof.

You mentioned autocross. In that case, I would definitely do power steering. I would also not do a big block. These days big blocks are for car shows, originality, or just the "gotta have it" factor.

You will get many different opinions on engines. Here is mine.
Decision 1 - Old school or new school. That will set the personality of the car. It sounds like you are leaning towards old school. I think that is what is right for these cars. But, just my opinion.

Strokers are a great way to get big block power and torque with small block weight. I think a 347 is pretty much perfect for these cars. You can build them from 340HP to 500HP with a stock block. A 500hp one is getting pretty nasty. That is what I have, and with 4 into 4s and stainless pipes (loudest pipes in case you didn't know), it is LOUD. Earplugs all the time, even a 10 minute drive, loud. If you have a wife, loud might be an issue to consider.

There is nothing wrong with the 351 based engines either. They have less clearance to the hood and getting to the spark plugs, but many have them. The big journals are technically not good from a bearing speed point of view, but I don't see anyone having issues. Most of the stroker kits use smaller journals to get rid of that anyway. 500HP from a 408 or 427 would be less radical than the same power from a 347. But a little more weight and expense. You do know that going to 427 means an aftermarket block? That adds about $2000 to the price tag.

Choose your engine first. Then the transmission strength and ratio and rear gear ratio need to be considered together. It seems that most are between 3.72 and 3.31.

I am a big fan of the Wilwood brakes. If I did not have them, I would consider power on other setups. There are quite a few "my brakes suck" threads with stock brakes. Yes there are fixes and adjustments, but the Wilwoods will just about pop your eyeballs out, no adjustments needed. Again, get your wallet out.

You can see that build times are all over the place. Some guys have 2 hours a week, and some have 12 hours a day to build. Going away from stock does add up the time. You can decide to make one little bracket and blow half a day. Then a couple more hours polishing it. I am at 3 years. But take out 4 months of gel coat driving, auto-crossing, and some major house remodeling and it would be more like 24 - 26 months. I probably have 2 more months to go to finish the paint. If you are in a rush, I would buy one that is already built. I would guess an average build is 12 - 18 months.

There is all the help you need right here on this forum. People are very willing to help. The build process is very enjoyable. I have also made two new friends with close by builders. You can't beat that deal.

edwardb

03-18-2015, 10:25 PM

Thanks for all the great ideas and suggestions. Today my id has been pulling very hard for me to just bite the bullet and build a 427. After some more research and some thinking, I am almost positive that I will do power steering and brakes.

Can anyone tell me about hydraulic clutch in these cars? Why would you NOT want one? Added cost? Added complexity of build?

Power brakes: This is a bit of a mixed bag. The standard Mk4 configuration now from FFR is a Wilwood pedal box. As you may already know, it has two master cylinders (front and back) and an adjustable balance bar between. It's a good setup. Power brakes means replacing the two MC's with a single boosted MC. Either vacuum or hydroboost assist. So you lose the Wilwood method for front/back balancing. Depending on how you use your car, this may or may not be important. And there are still other ways to adjust the front/back balance, but now different. Just something to add to the decision process.

Hydraulic clutch: Yes, they do add cost and they do add some complexity. The cable clutch setup has worked for Mustangs for years. A good quality cable (ideally a genuine Ford or Ford Racing variety) properly routed and adjusted works well and should last a long time. So it's not necessarily a slam dunk. Having said that, the aforementioned Wilwood pedal box is designed for hydraulic clutch, so it's an easy add. Depending on your engine and exhaust setup, sometimes a smooth direct route for the cable, away from heat, is hard to achieve. The most recent design from FFR adapting the Wilwood box to a cable clutch setup appears to be much improved over the original, but using hydraulic instead is something many, myself included, chose to do. In theory the hydraulic clutch should be smoother and more efficient, e.g. lower mechanical drag. I'm happy with how mine works in my Mk4, but it never had a cable, so it's hard to make a direct comparison. There's no right or wrong answer IMO. Like so many other aspects, you have to weigh the options and pros/cons of each, and decide.

Jeff Kleiner

03-19-2015, 06:13 AM

Welcome Iowaguy!

Lots of questions from you. I've got answers! They may not be the same answers as some of the others or they might not be right for your situation but have worked for me when I've built a few of these cars. As edwardb said above there are very few things relating to these cars where there is only one hard & fast "right" answer!

As your plan develops some of the group's recommendations might change but I'll hold fast on one subject--- power steering. A little searching on this as well as the other forum will turn up plenty of discussion on the topic, much of it I've participated in. I have installed power steering in every roadster that I've built and recommended it to many others. Some of those others chose to to go with manual and of those who did some later converted to power after driving the car for a season or so. Just sayin'...;)

There are some beautiful high end power steering setups out there that can easily run well north of $1K. I'm more of a K.I.S.S. sort of guy and whenever possible like to use reliable, proven, readily available and cost effective components. Here's my recipe for doing power steering for under $400 using OEM components along with aftermarket mounting hardware and plumbing. If you happen to begin with a complete kit you can cut that cost even further by selling the FFR manual rack through the forum classifieds for around $150.

Steering rack; choose one:
---Autozone #64163; 2.25 turns lock to lock $75+$18 core =$93
---Autozone #6439; 2.5 turns lock to lock $75+$18 core =$93
---Autozone #6406; 3.0 turns lock to lock $54+$20 core =$74

Power steering pump:
---Autozone #6383 with reservior $45+$24 core =$79

Mounting bracket and pulley:
---CFR Performance bracket #HZ-4306 $55
---CFR Performance pulley #HZ-02011 $40

Hoses and fittings:
---1) Breeze #70516 P/S rack AN adapters $26.00
---1) Breeze #21514 P/S pump AN adapter $13.00
---2) Breeze #21523 Straight AN hose ends $15.00
---1) Breeze #21524 90 degree AN hose end $17.50
---4 FT. Breeze #21102 Braided Teflon hose $19.60

For a street car I recommend the 3.0 rack. If you prefer a little less assist you can trim the relief spring until you get to the desired level then forget about it. I use my car on the track a lot and run the quick 2.25 rack in conjunction with an adjustable Heidts valve to regulate the amount of assist (full boost on the track, reduced on the street). If you go this route the valve and additional plumbing will run in the neighborhood of $150.

Good luck,
Jeff

CraigS

03-19-2015, 06:39 AM

If you want a 427 then get one. But, make it a 351W based engine. A 427 does not need to be a high hp beast. In fact w/ the extra cubes it can be a really nice mild mannered engine. As long as you put some reasonable aluminum heads on it, along w/ a nice mild cam, you can easily have 450, 475 hp in an engine your grandma could drive. AN FYI, the 351/427 does require an aftermarket block though so dropping back to a 408 can be done w/ a stock block which saves considerable $. Good job on the decision on power steering. If you also want power brakes, think about hydroboost to power both.

chopthebass

03-19-2015, 01:55 PM

My thinking is same as Craigs. I decided on a 351W based 427, with EFi. And I know it will be too much horsepower and driving it will be a learning curve! I had a 350 SB chevy based C**** replica in the UK and whilst its 345 HP was great I always said next time I build one it will have a 427!

68GT500MAN

03-19-2015, 04:32 PM

The actual sound that a 427 FE makes is magic. I do know of a big block car that was used in many hill climbs, auto cross events, and road raced quite successfully back in the day. All of this and no power steering either.
Doug

Kpt112

03-19-2015, 06:07 PM

Greetings,

Can anyone recommend a power brake vendor source? I am a bit unclear on the the benefit vs. down side of either vacuum or hydroboost assist. This will help me source my parts and get an idea on how to do this. Edward B indicated you have to swap out the Wilwood Master cylinder to get this done. Can anyone describe their setup?

Thanks
Kevin

Jeff Kleiner

03-19-2015, 06:25 PM

Kevin,
Answer these 2 questions and it will be easier to answer yours:
1) Are you using power steering?
2) Are you building a complete kit?

Jeff

Kpt112

03-19-2015, 06:40 PM

Yes to both.

Kevin,
Answer these 2 questions and it will be easier to answer yours:
1) Are you using power steering?
2) Are you building a complete kit?

Jeff

Jeff Kleiner

03-19-2015, 07:14 PM

Then it probably makes the most sense to talk to Mike Forte about retrofitting your Wilwood pedal box for hydrobooost.

Jeff

LewPoberezny

03-19-2015, 09:08 PM

MPTech

03-20-2015, 09:09 AM

My initial MK4 plans were manual steering and brakes. After reading many positive posts and driving 3 other Cobras with manual steering and brakes, I decided to change to PS and PB.
I utilized the PS setup Jeff identified above (EXCELLENT!!) and installed boosted brakes.
They both work great and I'm very happy with the decisions, however, If I was doing it again, I'd run the hydro steering and brakes (instead of the boosted).
I also have the cable clutch and my setup works very well (I installed a late model T5 that has a longer clutch fork (similar to the extended fork mod one of the vendors sells).
My clutch is very smooth and lighter effort than standard. I'd do more research, but if I was starting a new build, I'd also strongly consider the hydro clutch.

I don't think any of the engine choices will disappoint you. A well built 302 is more than you'll ever need for the street. I'm running a mildly modded 302 with GT-40P ported heads, GT-40 intake, and an FMS F-cam. It runs well (but we always want more don't we!). The 427 (big block, or even small black) is a very nice choice, but there are compromises for that too.
Regardless of your choice, I'd also recommend EFI.
I also really like the looks and function of the 4-into-4 headers and just installed a set of Gas-N SS sidepipes, I'm very excited to see how they sound in the next couple weeks! Initial sound tests are VERY promising!

Good luck on your build, it's a lot of fun to plan your dream, execute your build, then DRIVE IT!!! :cool:

Avalanche325

03-20-2015, 10:17 AM

....people who I trust. One is an autocrosser and he says he has never seen a ffr with a 427 complete a course.

I think your friend is pulling your leg. I haven't either. But then again, I have never actually seen one with a 427 at an autocross at all. Of course, a big is not block what I would choose for autocross.

As most people state, the same size engine can be mild or wild. This is what a 500HP-ish 347 sounds like at idle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXMj0lVsqns You can hear that it is a little more radical than Mikes 482 with similar power. With that comes some sacrifices. A 500hp 482 will likely outlast a 500hp 347. Mine is the loudest Cobra I have ever heard, and I have heard quite a few. My wife hates it being so loud. A 350hp one is MUCH quieter. When I get back on the road I have to try to tune out some trailer hitching at 35 - 40mph cruise speed. A common issue with a big cam. My autocross locations do not have noise restrictions, but many do. If they put them in, I will have to get a set of Breezes Quiet pipes. I have to wear ear plugs 100% of the time. I have to let it warm up for a few minutes before I take off. But, It does sound awesome and I LOVE IT! I wanted mine to be nasty, and I achieved that. I wasn't planning on it being quite so loud. You are doing the right thing by asking questions. Make sure that what you think you want, is what you really want.

There is a cure for too much HP. Learn to modulate the throttle. I think anyone that owns one of these cars should do 3 or 4 autocrosses as a safety measure. You will never drive your car that hard on the street and be anywhere near safe.

If you are going big HP, I would go big brakes too.

You are in for a lot of fun!!!!

Jeff Kleiner

03-20-2015, 02:42 PM

.

... I think anyone that owns one of these cars should do a few hundred autocrosses as a safety measure.

There, fixed it for you.

Jeff

rwantin

03-20-2015, 03:01 PM

Not much for me to add here, especially with the folks in-the-know-(way)-more-than-myself. Mine is a pretty simple setup, 302, Ford Racing F cam, T5Z and 3.73 solid rear three-link. In the grand scheme of things, it is pretty mild, but it is also big stupid fun. :) The nice thing, I suppose, is it is very, very easy to get parts/mods for an '89 HO.

Another reason for the reply...couldn't help but notice your mention of a Bonneville. Have an '07 T100 I have magically kept for the last seven years (I tend to go through motorcycles a lot, seemingly I get bored easily). It's a keeper.

Oh, and welcome!

39716

AverageIowaGuy

03-20-2015, 05:59 PM

Thanks for the info. I'll look at doing those PS options when the time comes. I am still wrapping my head around the engine choice, but I have a long time to think about that. I've read the manual a couple times now and I've read quite a few build threads. I think I can do just about everything in there. The part that will give me the most trouble will be the electrical system and engine tuning I think. Almost everything else seems pretty straightforward and even plug and play at times. I'm sure taking the build course will clear up some of the confusion, as will just biting the bullet and buying a more or less turnkey crate engine/transmission/rear end combo.

AverageIowaGuy

03-20-2015, 06:02 PM

Here is my Bonneville. I did just a few mods on it. I took out the factory airbox and put K&N filters on it. Also changed exhaust and re-jetted. I was thinking that tuning it would be difficult but I nailed it on the first try. I took it to the dyno and the FA mixture was spot on.
39717

Not much for me to add here, especially with the folks in-the-know-(way)-more-than-myself. Mine is a pretty simple setup, 302, Ford Racing F cam, T5Z and 3.73 solid rear three-link. In the grand scheme of things, it is pretty mild, but it is also big stupid fun. :) The nice thing, I suppose, is it is very, very easy to get parts/mods for an '89 HO.

Another reason for the reply...couldn't help but notice your mention of a Bonneville. Have an '07 T100 I have magically kept for the last seven years (I tend to go through motorcycles a lot, seemingly I get bored easily). It's a keeper.

Oh, and welcome!

39716

Avalanche325

03-20-2015, 08:31 PM

There, fixed it for you.

Jeff

Thanks for the help Jeff.

If I can get this thing painted, I'll get back to autocrossing!. I have a whole weekend of primer wet sanding planned. Getting up at 7:00AM! How many weeks am I allowed to say "I am painting in two weeks"?

Avalanche325

03-20-2015, 08:48 PM

Don't let the wiring scare you. Overall it seems like a big job, just like building an entire car. The best thing you can do is realize that you are hooking up one thing at a time. Most things are just two wires, power and ground. Just like building the car. Don't think about assembling the suspension. Think about installing a lower control arm to the frame. Two bolts. Much easier.

Don't let a schematic scare you. It is a map. You don't look at all the roads on a map at once. Just where you are going from and going to.

I can imagine the build school will give you a lot of confidence. I have never heard anything but praise for it.

CraigS

03-21-2015, 07:15 AM

If you are nervous about the wiring be careful on the efi/carb decision. Some efi systems have a harness that connects the ecu to the engine and sensors and only needs to pick up power from the main car harness. So they are pretty easy. Others are much more involved in doing the mating to the car electrical system. And don't go w/ any system that uses a MUstang ecu. That used to be a way to get into efi less expensively but the ecus, being they are from cars from 20 years ago, are now very hard to find.

Mesa Mike

03-21-2015, 09:29 PM

Im sure you will evolve like I did over the years. I wanted a street car with occasional track. Now I want a track with occasional street car. I think you can go from track to street OK but not necessarily from street to track. HP is a can of worms question. Like a navel, everyone has one regarding HP questions. My first motor was about 335. My second was 378 then to 400 HP (all flywheel). I can tell you that 400hp at the flywheel is not enough HP for track. Auto X yes, but not a road course. I plan to go up at least another 100HP so as to be able to stay with the "faster cars" on the straights. I'm good in the "infield" but can use more top end on the straights. Regardless of the HP I have, I always roll on and off the throttle only when straight. If you don't abuse the gas pedal I don't think there is a safety issue.....for me that is. Good building. My choice for next engine......302 Dart Block, stroke and bored, solid lifters, 205 AFR heads, comp cam, yada, yada, yada. Good building.