Fryguy's 818R with 2004 STI Donor Build Thread

[fryguy]

Another Seattle 818R build here. I posted a couple threads related to issues I was having, but figured it is time to create a build thread. I have learned a lot from others' threads. Hopefully my thread returns the favor.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/wpid-wp-1422853687116.jpeg

I ordered the frame unpainted since I figured I would need to make a few modifications. Boy was I right. I have already done a lot of cutting, welding, and grinding.

My kit options are:

CF Race Splitter
CF Rocker Panels
CF Rear Diffuser
6-Speed

My donor is a 2004 STI that I had tracked for over 10 years (original owner). It was a bit bored with it and needed to spend a little on some maintenance. So I talked myself into doing the 818R instead :D. I knew going into this that the 6-speed will present some challenges. My old STI also had upgraded knuckles for 5x114, too. Basically 2005-2007 knuckles. This will require some modifications, too.

The initial plan was to get started with mounting the motor and trans in the chassis and modifying the 6-speed. Unfortunately, I ran into issues with the 6-speed conversion (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16920-STI-Six-speed-DCCD-2WD-Conversion-Issue). Moved on to the interior modifications.

[fryguy]

Got a lot of work done on mounting seats, figuring out the harnesses, and mounting the ktuned shifter.
If you try to center your seat to use the FFR eye bolt brackets, it does not line up with the steering column. So I cut out the inside eye bolt bracket. I also cut out the front eye bolt bracket since it doesn’t work with my sparco seat and blocks the slider. I relocated the inside eye bolt bracket further inside and placed some plates under the seat for the sub eye bolts.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885128979.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885128979.jpeg)

After doing all of this and feeling proud of myself, I discover the FFR harness bar will not work for me. It is not wide enough (to the inside). And it is probably too high. So I cut them out. I’ll need to use the square tubing for the shoulder harnesses.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885409739.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885409739.jpeg)

Next, I’ll need to figure out how to notch the firewall for the harnesses.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885514645.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885514645.jpeg)
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885521581.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885521581.jpeg)
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885531053.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425885531053.jpeg)

Also cut the tunnel frame since it really isn’t needed for the 818R. I don’t plan on using any of the tunnel aluminum. The tunnel frame is just long enough mount and locate the ktuned shifter.

[FFRSpec72]

Jeff, looking good, a couple of questions

1. Why did you cut out the floor that FFR welded in ?
2. What are you doing about a seat back brace ?
3. Going to run a fuel cell in the passenger side or behind the seat ?

[Santiago]

Looks nice Jeff! I'm not seeing a cut-out floor though. Am I missing something?

I haven't fitted my seats yet (could have something to do with not having them), but I am worried that the supplied harness bar isn't going to work well for the same reasons you indicated. BTW, I think it's Rasmus's build thread that has a firewall modification done to clear the shoulder webbing. See here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12631-818Rasmus-E-Modified&p=172245&viewfull=1#post172245). I thought he had more on this, but that was all I saw in a quick search.

Best,
-j

[FFRSpec72]

I'm not seeing a cut-out floor though. Am I missing something?


In front of the seat (where your feet go), looks like Jeff cut out the 16 gauge floor that FFR puts in

[C.Plavan]

You do not need a seat back brace if the seat is against the firewall (The firewall is plenty strong). I just got 2015 NASA tech'd without one. They even pointed out I did not need one without me mentioning anything. They did not like the roll bar design than much though.....

Is FFR supplying sub mount, mounts now? Even if a little off centered it not a big deal. The sub mount (6 pts) are individually adjustable.

You will probably need to lower your seat even more. Throw your helmet on and try the broomstick test if you have not already. My seat is much lower that yours, and I had to buy a super thin seat cushion to get low enough to feel comfortable. I'm 5"11".

Nice to see another R built on the West Coast.

[C.Plavan]

In front of the seat (where your feet go), looks like Jeff cut out the 16 gauge floor that FFR puts in

His floors are still there in the pictures.

[FFRSpec72]

You do not need a seat back brace if the seat is against the firewall (The firewall is plenty strong). I just got 2015 NASA tech'd without one. They even pointed out I did not need one without me mentioning anything.

I have been through this one with the local conference league and I had to install a seat back brace, they would not accept the "against the firewall" but they had no issues with the cage (go figure), every tech has their own quarks.

[fryguy]

1. Why did you cut out the floor that FFR welded in ?


Chad answered this one. When I emailed you about your seat mounting, I was going to weld in a full rear floor, but then calculated a weight difference of ~25lbs for the driver and passenger. So went with just the 2" width plates instead.



2. What are you doing about a seat back brace ?


So these are the Sparco PRO-ADV seats and they are FIA 8855-1999. So per the SCCA rules, I think I am okay (for 5 years). If anyone thinks otherwise, please let me know now.



3. Going to run a fuel cell in the passenger side or behind the seat ?


I am actually going to use the Harmon fuel cell you're using although I have not ordered it yet. At this point, I am leaning towards not bending the firewall to get the extra space.

[C.Plavan]

Yep- You are all good with those seats. My seat is FIA also, but over 5 years old.

Go for a bigger oil cooler than the original one I bought. I have the dual fan Setrab 9 series coming. (16" long). I'm going to play with different mounting areas.

[fryguy]

You do not need a seat back brace if the seat is against the firewall (The firewall is plenty strong). I just got 2015 NASA tech'd without one. They even pointed out I did not need one without me mentioning anything. They did not like the roll bar design than much though.....

Is FFR supplying sub mount, mounts now? Even if a little off centered it not a big deal. The sub mount (6 pts) are individually adjustable.

You will probably need to lower your seat even more. Throw your helmet on and try the broomstick test if you have not already. My seat is much lower that yours, and I had to buy a super thin seat cushion to get low enough to feel comfortable. I'm 5"11".

Nice to see another R built on the West Coast.

Thanks for pointing that out. I'm 5'7", but the seat is still too high.

[FFRSpec72]

His floors are still there in the pictures.

I guess I'm going blind as it looks like no floor, must be because there is no powder coating, so much for my eye test ! I might have to move to a bigger oil cooler as I have just the single fan SETRAB, but will have to see how it performs in the location I have it as there are not many places to put the oil cooler and have it get fresh air.

[fryguy]

Looks nice Jeff! I'm not seeing a cut-out floor though. Am I missing something?

I haven't fitted my seats yet (could have something to do with not having them), but I am worried that the supplied harness bar isn't going to work well for the same reasons you indicated. BTW, I think it's Rasmus's build thread that has a firewall modification done to clear the shoulder webbing. See here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12631-818Rasmus-E-Modified&p=172245&viewfull=1#post172245). I thought he had more on this, but that was all I saw in a quick search.

Best,
-j

Yeah, I saw this thread and I am glad he posted the dimensions. I am not sure if I want to bend the tab like he did o just cut it out (and put an edge trim on it).

[fryguy]

Got my driver’s seat lowered and tilted back. I dropped the butt all the way down and tilted back about 20 degrees. Also, had to slide the seat way back almost up against the firewall. I’m 5’7″ and was surprised how tight it is to make the clearance requirements. I still have the sliders, but it seems rather pointless since I am already back up against the firewall.
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425973131597.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425973131597.jpeg)
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425973141831.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425973141831.jpeg)
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425973385905.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425973385905.jpeg)
Tilting back allowed me to clear that front crossbar.
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425973150852.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1425973150852.jpeg)

[Kurk818]

Nice to see another local 818. Are you actually in Seattle or the surrounding suburbs?

[Mitch Wright]

I am 5'8" and with the FFR tank I have the flat of the Kirkey seat on the floor, that gave me 2.5" to the broom stick with a helmet on.

[fryguy]

Nice to see another local 818. Are you actually in Seattle or the surrounding suburbs?

I am up in Bothell. But my parents are in Spanaway and the in-laws are in Puyallup, so we're down in your neck of the woods often.

[Kurk818]

Very cool. We'll have to meet up once they're both operational. Do you plan on making yours street legal like Tony? FFRSpec

[FFRSpec72]

Got my driver’s seat lowered and tilted back. I dropped the butt all the way down and tilted back about 20 degrees. Also, had to slide the seat way back almost up against the firewall. I’m 5’7″ and was surprised how tight it is to make the clearance requirements. I still have the sliders, but it seems rather pointless since I am already back up against the firewall.



You are quite close ! I moved the firewall back because of this issue

[fryguy]

Received the center diff locking kit from possum bourne motorsports. It is a FWD or RWD or 4WD kit. It is so simple that its ingenious.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426043393262.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426043393262.jpeg)

I’ll use the FWD component and slide that over the pinion shaft gear. Then slide the center diff locking spool over that and the driven shaft. Don’t need the RWD component obviously.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426043742223.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426043742223.jpeg)
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426043837836.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426043837836.jpeg)
(Looking straight down on the center diff locking spool)

It did come with a new oil pump gear to match up with the center diff locking spool.

There is a decent weight savings of 10lbs versus the original DCCD. The center diff locking spool and FWD component weigh 3lbs.

The length of the center locking spool looks correct to butt up against the transfer drive gear in the tail housing.

This is all just a cursory review. We’ll see how this all goes together over the next few days.

[fryguy]

Very cool. We'll have to meet up once they're both operational. Do you plan on making yours street legal like Tony? FFRSpec

I'd love to make it to street legal although I have not really done any research on how to get that done in Washington state.

[Kurk818]

I'd love to make it to street legal although I have not really done any research on how to get that done in Washington state.

Im going to attempt registration in 4 to 6 weeks. Ill let you know how that goes. I will not have wipers.

[fryguy]

Im going to attempt registration in 4 to 6 weeks. Ill let you know how that goes. I will not have wipers.

Do you have a build thread? Couldn't seem to find it.

[FFRSpec72]

It is so simple that its ingenious.

So simple yet expensive !

[Kurk818]

Do you have a build thread? Couldn't seem to find it.

No i do not.

[fryguy]

The center diff locking spool and the new oil pump gear mated up well. On the other side, there was about an 1/8″ gap with gear in the tail housing.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426391041518.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426391041518.jpeg)

Debated on what tool would best to cut the tail housing and ended up using a reciprocating saw with a thicker 9″ blade. The tail housing is an awkward shape so I bolted it to a universal square to hold it in place. It worked well and gave a straight cut.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390704844.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390704844.jpeg)

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390716522.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390716522.jpeg)

Next up is plugging the holes. Not covered in the guide is a race, a plastic piece, and a metal dowel that had to be removed.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390829828.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390829828.jpeg)

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390837650.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390837650.jpeg)

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390941185.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390941185.jpeg)

Tail housing back on and ready to go back into the chassis. I wish I had a pretty plate like the 5-speeds.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426393914217.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426393914217.jpeg)

[Zach34]

What exactly is this 1/8 inch gap you speak of? Did you have to add a spacer of some sort?

I've been brainstorming ways to weld the center diff, and there's just not an easy solution that seems like it would be strong enough. I think I'm going to do what you did and buy those parts from Possum.

Nice job on the cut! I will mimic you on that, too!

[fryguy]

The 1/8" gap (probably a little less) is the gap between the end of the possum diff locking spool and the flange part of the transfer drive gear in the tail housing. The diff locking spool actually slips over the shaft part of the transfer drive gear. There are already a couple spacers on that shaft part of the transfer drive gear, but there is still a slight gap to the flange. I don't think it will cause an issue. The gap isn't wide enough to allow the diff locking spool to come off of the oil pump drive gear.

(transfer drive gear bottom left)
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390829828.jpeg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426390829828.jpeg)

[fryguy]

Tried to take a picture of the gap with an inspection mirror in the tail housing. The teeth are on the transfer drive gear. The end of the diff locking spool is just below it.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-img_20150314_135852.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-img_20150314_135852.jpg)

[Zach34]

Ah, I see. Thanks for going to the trouble of taking that picture!

[Kurk818]

I ground down the tail end of the transmission until i was at the bearing seat area. Measure the width of the hole at the tail end of the transmission then go to any autoparts store and get a freeze plug in that diameter. Apply sealer and tap that baby home. Gives it a great finished look. The oil hole i plugged with a two part aluminum repair putty after roughening and cleaning it up.

http://i.imgur.com/iavMNBFl.jpg

[fryguy]

Got the transmission back on the engine and into the chassis to check out the clearance issues with the transmission oil pan. My 6-speed kit came with 4 .60″ spacers. I assumed that these were the spacers Jim Schenck mentioned they used to clear the chassis. There aren’t any instructions for the spacers. I am guessing they go on top of the engine mounts. Have an email out to FFR to confirm.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426637226802.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426637226802.jpg)
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426637595081.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426637595081.jpg)

Out of curiosity I tried two at the transmission mounts. No way.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426637747281.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426637747281.jpg)

Assuming these spacers go on top of the engine mounts, that pushes the engine even closer to the top cross bars making an already tight area even more so. A chassis modification might still be the best way to go.

[Zach34]

If you have the tools, I recommend cutting/welding the frame. It was relatively easy and it introduces far fewer variables that can bite you later on.

[fryguy]

So FFR says these 0.6″ spacers that came in the 6-speed kit go between the transmission and the mount. Doesn’t work for me.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999000760.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999000760.jpg)

In this pic, the transmission is resting on the pan (on the chassis). The transmission mount bolts aren’t long enough to accommodate the spacers. No new transmission mount bolts in the kit either. So used some other long bolts for testing. The spacer probably needs to be more like an inch or so to work. So maybe this is another 04 6-speed incompatibility.

So modified the chassis (Zach’s way).

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999335424.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999335424.jpg)

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999348165.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999348165.jpg)

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999361835.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999361835.jpg)

Fits perfectly!

Also cleaned up the tail housing with the freeze plug. Great idea Kurk!

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999588193.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1426999588193.jpg)

[Kurk818]

Awesome work man. Loving seeing your progress and willingness to go that extra step. Here's a couple from my progress today. Hope you dont mind me posting in your thread :) Interior sound deadening, fuel filler installation, front end and read end wiring.

http://i.imgur.com/vlbv9uKl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vqGR0FTl.jpg

[fryguy]

Wow you're getting close to finishing. I am going to need a ride!

[C.Plavan]

Nice work. A welder can "Fix" anything. :)

[fryguy]

The Sparco slider handle was too wide and didn’t have enough vertical clearance with that front diagonal cross brace. Fabbed a new one using the ends of the Sparco handle.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1427047357248.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1427047357248.jpg)

The new one…

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1427047381273.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wpid-wp-1427047381273.jpg)

More room to pull up on the handle now…

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/IMG_20150322_104427.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/IMG_20150322_104427.jpg)

[AZPete]

Nice work. A welder can "Fix" anything. :o

[fryguy]

Spent today figuring out which axle shaft is going to be just right. From others, it sounded like I was going to be using the front shafts and dealing with the extra length. Well that’s not the case with the 2004 STI. Fortunately, I can use the rear shafts. So with a 2004 STI you can use the rears, keep the outer CV on and then just switch out the inner with the front inner.

Here are the specs:
Axle / Spline Count / Diameter / Length

FFR 80237/ 29 / 0.935″ / 20.75″

2004 STI Front Shaft / 32-30 / 1.02″-0.9625″ / 20.75″

2004 STI Rear Shaft / 30 / 0.9625″ / 20.75″

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/wpid-wp-1428213702959.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/wpid-wp-1428213702959.jpg)

[fryguy]

I was having a hell of a time trying to get the rear outer CV back onto the rear axle shaft. The circlip was a real *****. Using a hose clamp and a hammer didn’t work. So I took the 12 ton press to it and damaged the splines.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/wpid-wp-1428709365377.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/wpid-wp-1428709365377.jpg)

The sad thing is I only removed the rear outer CV to investigate which axle shaft to use. Then discovered the rear shafts were the ones. Sigh….off to eBay to find another rear axle assy.

[theburner9]

Check your local Subaru speed shop. they'll probably have some that are fine other than the boot being torn. I got mine for $20

[Hindsight]

I hate those circlips. The best way I have found to get the CV on is to tap it lightly with a hammer until the circlip is resting against the CV, then press down on the CV with your hand holding constant pressure while then going in with a flat head screwdriver and pushing the circlip into the groove. The downward pressure your hand provides on the CV keeps the circlip from moving around as you use the screwdriver to put it in its groove. I actually just did mine last night and using this technique I was able to get them on very quickly.

[theburner9]

I used a zip tie and they literally just slid in. no hammer involved

[Mitch Wright]

Compress it with hose clamp and tap the CV on with a mallet works well too.

[Scargo]

Nice work. I also cut out that area for the six-speed. I'm curious why no one's welding the holes closed in the tail. Afraid of warpage?

[fryguy]

Man, you guys make it sound so easy! Tried the hose clamp method without any luck. I am using the STI rear shaft. The groove in the FFR shaft is deeper and looks wider. I think that makes easier. Yet another STI issue it seems.
http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/wpid-wp-1428795456431.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/wpid-wp-1428795456431.jpg)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Fryguy
Did you remove the star,balls and cage?
It looks like the star has a taper on the side you are inserting from.
Bob
40440

[fryguy]

Fryguy
Did you remove the star,balls and cage?
It looks like the star has a taper on the side you are inserting from.
Bob
40440

I didn't remove the internals, but did notice the taper. That's why I thought using the 12-ton press would work with that taper pressing the circlip in. But that didn't happen and I ended up crushing the splines instead. How did you remove the internals of the rear outer CV and then put it back together?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I didn't remove the internals, but did notice the taper. That's why I thought using the 12-ton press would work with that taper pressing the circlip in. But that didn't happen and I ended up crushing the splines instead. How did you remove the internals of the rear outer CV and then put it back together?
To remove them, I put the shaft in a 5" vise about 1/2 way down the shaft. with the outer joint down.
Pulled up the boot.
Used a 2x4 16" long with a tapered point to a 1" x 3/4" flat point
Whacked that with a 3 lbs sledge about 6 times. My son was ready to catch the whole upright.

To assemble, I tried the Wayne's hose clamp method with success.
See http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11115-818-assembly-tips-add-yours&p=111287&viewfull=1#post111287

Edit: To remove the balls and cage. Tap one side down until a ball is up and it comes out. repeat until all is out.
To assemble, reverse the process.
Bob

Bob

[fryguy]

Finished most of the front firewall, intrusion panels, and interior panels. Rather than using rivets and drilling into the chassis tubes, I ended up welding on a bunch of tabs and using 1/4 and 10-32 rivnuts.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/wpid-chassis-tabs1.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/wpid-chassis-tabs1.jpg)

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/wpid-chassis-tabs.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/wpid-chassis-tabs.jpg)

For the intrusion panels, I used 6061-T6 1/8". The interior panels were actually the FFR exteriors, but I trimmed them for the interior. All the panels are then fastened using 1″ counter sunk spacers.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/wpid-instrusion-panels.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/wpid-instrusion-panels.jpg)

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/wpid-chassis-front.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/wpid-chassis-front.jpg)

Also cut away the door mount plates.

[Kurk818]

Nice Work. Any plans on making it street legal at some point?

[fryguy]

Nice Work. Any plans on making it street legal at some point?

Yeah, I would like to. Isn't your inspection in just a few days? Where at?

[Kurk818]

Yeah, I would like to. Isn't your inspection in just a few days? Where at?

It's tomorrow at the Tacoma location. Ill let you know how it goes.

[sponaugle]

Spent today figuring out which axle shaft is going to be just right. From others, it sounded like I was going to be using the front shafts and dealing with the extra length. Well that’s not the case with the 2004 STI. Fortunately, I can use the rear shafts. So with a 2004 STI you can use the rears, keep the outer CV on and then just switch out the inner with the front inner.

Here are the specs:
Axle / Spline Count / Diameter / Length

FFR 80237/ 29 / 0.935″ / 20.75″

2004 STI Front Shaft / 32-30 / 1.02″-0.9625″ / 20.75″

2004 STI Rear Shaft / 30 / 0.9625″ / 20.75″

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/wpid-wp-1428213702959.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/wpid-wp-1428213702959.jpg)

This is interesting. I used a 2006 STI as a donor, so I could use the front shafts with the front inners and rear outers. I never noticed that on the 2004 the fronts outers were 32 spline, not 30. Of course with the 2004 STI you are getting 5x100s as well.

Cool to see another 6-speed/STI build!

Jeff

[fryguy]

This is interesting. I used a 2006 STI as a donor, so I could use the front shafts with the front inners and rear outers. I never noticed that on the 2004 the fronts outers were 32 spline, not 30. Of course with the 2004 STI you are getting 5x100s as well.

Cool to see another 6-speed/STI build!

Jeff

Well, actually I have 5x114 knuckles and hubs. I am the original owner on this STI and many years back I did the upgrade.

[sponaugle]

Well, actually I have 5x114 knuckles and hubs. I am the original owner on this STI and many years back I did the upgrade.

Ah yea, my mistake for missing that. Are the 2006 STI rears axles the same? If so you can have mine, as I don't need them.

Jeff

[Kurk818]

Ah yea, my mistake for missing that. Are the 2006 STI rears axles the same? If so you can have mine, as I don't need them.

Jeff

I dont believe they are.

[sponaugle]

I dont believe they are.

Yea, the SM says the 04 STI rears are BJ87+DOJ87, 295.2mm long, 25mm diameter. The 06 STI is EBJ+EDJ, 25mm diameter, and 316mm long. Same diameter, but I didn't realize the 06 STIs would be longer. Of course if he switched to 5x114s, he may have also switched to the 05+ axles?

Jeff

[fryguy]

Yea, the SM says the 04 STI rears are BJ87+DOJ87, 295.2mm long, 25mm diameter. The 06 STI is EBJ+EDJ, 25mm diameter, and 316mm long. Same diameter, but I didn't realize the 06 STIs would be longer. Of course if he switched to 5x114s, he may have also switched to the 05+ axles?

Jeff

No, I still have the original 04 axles (Actually, 1 axle since I damaged the other). The 5x114 upgrade kit allowed the use of the original axles. I don't remember who I bought them from since that was many years ago. It may have been these guys: http://www.licmotorsports.com/products/lic-motorsports-front-5x1143-knuckles-5x100-02-07-wrx-04-sti_lic-03079012

[fryguy]

I think I am overdue for an update!
My goal is to rivnut most of the panels. This requires fabricating and welding on a bunch of tabs.

Front underbody:

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416446909731.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416446909731.jpg)

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416447112381.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416447112381.jpg)

Center underbody:

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416447596191.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416447596191.jpg)

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416447747291.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416447747291.jpg)

Side body panels (with CF splitters):

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-1441644832351.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-1441644832351.jpg)

I picked up a JD2 M3 tube bender for building my own rear chassis wing mount/transmission protection.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416449496731.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416449496731.jpg)

Digging the open rear end and the rear attached wing supports; wonder if anyone has tried this.

http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416450868991.jpg (http://jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416450868991.jpg)

[Mitch Wright]

Nice work.
Looking forward to seeing your wing mount. I am planning to build mine using aluminum round and square tube and plate.

[Frank818]

Very nice fasteners! Did you mention somewhere what they are?

BTW I want that Porsche as is. lolll

[fryguy]

Very nice fasteners! Did you mention somewhere what they are?

BTW I want that Porsche as is. lolll

They are 1/4-20 rivnuts, 1/4-20 countersunk screws, and Allstar Performance (ALL18664-50) countersunk washers (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0BMYSK/?m=A1Q6MC9GBY3II0).

[STiPWRD]

Great idea on the welded tabs for the floor panels.

[Zach34]

Digging the open rear end and the rear attached wing supports; wonder if anyone has tried this.


I am still a ways away from building my wing mount, but I would like to do something like that to facilitate access to the engine/trans area without removing and handling the $2k rear wing every time. I'm not going to go totally open rear end, though.

I'm jealous of that tubing bender. Been waiting for an excuse to buy one for a long time. Be sure to post what you make with it!

[C.Plavan]

Just a friendly reminder- You are going to need to cut the outside intrusion panels for the Coolant and AWIC lines to pass through. Also, throw the outer lap harness eye bolts on now. With that inner panel too, it will be a Biatch later to bolt them in. Looks good.

[Pearldrummer7]

Just a friendly reminder- You are going to need to cut the outside intrusion panels for the Coolant and AWIC lines to pass through. Also, throw the outer lap harness eye bolts on now. With that inner panel too, it will be a Biatch later to bolt them in. Looks good.

+1 on belt mounts before intrusion panels. Same with seat mounting, depending on how you mount it.

[Santiago]

Love the tabs! Especially since they're simpler than what I had planned. =)

Looking forward to seeing what you have in mind for the rear as we seem to be on the same page. Round tube bumper & wing mount with open rear end. I'm likely going completely open in the rear. I picked up a slim LED bar that I'll use for a brake light, but I don't need the rest of the rear lighting provisions FFR supplies in their panel. Besides, for me an important part of the rear bumper bar strategy is a crush-space of at least 6" from the trans input shaft, and that will take me way past the plane of the supplied rear panel.

Best,
-j

[Scargo]

Love the tabs! Especially since they're simpler than what I had planned. =)

Looking forward to seeing what you have in mind for the rear as we seem to be on the same page. Round tube bumper & wing mount with open rear end. I'm likely going completely open in the rear. I picked up a slim LED bar that I'll use for a brake light, but I don't need the rest of the rear lighting provisions FFR supplies in their panel. Besides, for me an important part of the rear bumper bar strategy is a crush-space of at least 6" from the trans input shaft, and that will take me way past the plane of the supplied rear panel.

Best,
-j
Ditto on most of these ideas. I purchased this Speedway, 60 piece tab and gusset kit (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Gusset-Kit-Tab-Kit-60-Piece,60085.html). I think it is a great investment for attaching all kinds of things. Pieces are nicely made and tumble deburred. If you want more details of thicknesses or shapes in the kit, just ask.

[Courtnie Provencher]

I cannot wait to see how this car turns out! I'll be following your thread throughout the build. You're making great progress already.. Keep it up! :)

[fryguy]

I am long overdue for an update so here goes. I have been slowly working on the rear car and putting together a solution to protect the transmission and also provide a rear wing mount.
These were the inspirations.

http://i0.wp.com/jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/e241dbd5172fe77de5f51a97a507fd9f-1.jpg?fit=564%2C375

http://i1.wp.com/jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/wpid-wp-14416450868991-1.jpg?fit=590%2C590

Welded some mounts to the rear chassis brace.
http://i0.wp.com/jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/IMG_20160117_161105.jpg?fit=590%2C787

Set up the frame for this structure. I used clevis ends on the tubing ends to attach to the chassis. That way I can remove the whole structure if I need to pull the engine.
http://i0.wp.com/jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/IMG_20160423_104936.jpg?fit=590%2C443

Fabricated some saddle gussets to reinforce the cross members.
http://i0.wp.com/jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/IMG_20160529_161009.jpg?fit=590%2C787

I cut away a lot of the rear bumper. The plan is to replace the cutout with a black metal mesh and then just go with a pair of circular tail lights on the ends. The rear wing supports would then attach through there along with running the exhaust through the center.
http://i1.wp.com/jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/IMG_20160619_122916.jpg?fit=590%2C443

I have a cross member that protects the transmission.
http://i0.wp.com/jefferyfry.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/IMG_20160619_122940.jpg?fit=590%2C443

The whole thing can rotate up or be completely removed.

[FFRSpec72]

What is the total weight ?

[fryguy]

What is the total weight ?

Just under 11 lbs. I am using 1" OD X 0.058" WALL 4130 ALLOY STEEL TUBE.