Installing FFR Headers on Coyote in 33HR

[H R Lucky]

I have installed the Ceramic coated FFR headers in the Hot Rod, engine is already installed.
For the life of me I can't seem to get the lower header bolt installed for cylinders 2 & 6; second one back on each side.
It appears that I will have to remove the motor mounts to do this, AArgg, I don't really want to do this if possible.
For those that have done this, can you tell me your trick to getting these 2 header bolts installed.

thanks,
Nevin

[H R Lucky]

I was able to get the drivers side bolt in using a flex extension on a 3/8 ratchet, but still unable to get the passenger side, I think I unintentionally caused the problem back when I was installing the engine, I modified the motor mounts to move the engine forward about 3/8 in. to get clearance at the firewall and now the motor mount is too close the header to get a socket & extension in there at that point. I think I will remove the PS header and install a stud in the block for cyl 2, I think I can get a nut on it, just can't start a bolt straight. Any other ideas?

Nevin

[Arrowhead]

Hard to vision what going on, but if the motor mount is in the way, is it easier to remove the motor mount than remove the header? What I like about he frame brackets is you can remove the bottom bolt and the frame bracket and it will swing down and you can remove or at least loosen) the motor mount without disturbing the engine.

[donshapansky]

I used the stock head studs and found the same problem, after starter and motor mount removal I got the 2 nuts installed and torqued, it didn't more than 30 - 40 minutes as I recall.

Don

[ClemsonS197]

Get them started before any of the other bolts. Then an open ended crescent 1/10 of a turn at a time.

[donshapansky]

I forgot to mention I used the open end crows foot with 3/8 " ratchet style torque wrench and extension to torque the nuts properly.

Don

[rcotner]

Like ClemsonS197 I used an open end wrench with tiny increments of rotation. I have not torqued the bolts but I don't have any obvious exhaust leaks at the headers.

On the other hand I have persistent leaks at both joints just downstream of the collectors. Any ideas on how to fix that problem.

[donshapansky]

That's why I went the route of the old U-clamp with slices out of the muffler inlets at 3 and 9 o'clock. I just could not get the clamps supplied to even come close to gripping the pipes.

Don

[H R Lucky]

I was able to get the no 2 cyl header bolt installed, or I should say header stud. I removed the header completely then installed a stud in no. 2 rear hole, then reinstalled the header and was able to get the nut started and snugged up, however I still need to tighten/torque the nut; still can't get a socket on it, tried a crows foot also no go, may have to get a special 17 mm 12 point wrench to tighten it. So, I have all bolts torqued except that one.