Rear hood pin problems

[Sean.keehn@gmail.com]

the hood pins for the trunk, mine stick up way too far for the pin to hold the trunk flush. Anyone have any ideas. Maybe tap the treads farther up so it'll fit.

[Buzz Skyline]

I have the same problem. I was thinking of tapping them farther too. I can't imagine any other solution.

[freds]

I have the same problem. I was thinking of tapping them farther too. I can't imagine any other solution.

I tapped mine and got them to fit. It is a bit "iffy" as the diameter of the smooth pin where you are cutting new threads is less than the "correct" thread OD, so a sharp good die nut is advised and slow cutting with Tap Magic (or similar) and frequent removal of cuttings is my recommendation, so that you don't tear any of the new threads off.

fred

[tmoretta]

Additional washers beneath would help.

[Buzz Skyline]

Additional washers beneath would help.

But you still need at least a little thread above the hole, and that's what limits how low the pin can go.

[Buzz Skyline]

I tapped mine and got them to fit. It is a bit "iffy" as the diameter of the smooth pin where you are cutting new threads is less than the "correct" thread OD, so a sharp good die nut is advised and slow cutting with Tap Magic (or similar) and frequent removal of cuttings is my recommendation, so that you don't tear any of the new threads off.

fred

Thanks, Fred. I was a little worried about that. I was thinking of cutting the pin and going to an M12 die instead. I haven't checked the diameter of the pin yet to see if it will work. Potentially, I could just buy stainless steel rod and make new pins, I guess.

[freds]

Thanks, Fred. I was a little worried about that. I was thinking of cutting the pin and going to an M12 die instead. I haven't checked the diameter of the pin yet to see if it will work. Potentially, I could just buy stainless steel rod and make new pins, I guess.

Sorry, I forgot to mention....you can also grind down the thickness/height of the upper nut. It doesn't need to be a full strength nut at all. With both adding thread and reducing nut thickness you should be OK. Possible nut thickness could "do it all". I did both.

fred

[Larry J W]

I welded the nut to a fender washer, drilled and taped the washer for a pair of 10-32 screws and bolted it on the bottom of the flange. Lock nut goes beneath the assembly.

The flang is quite flemsy so I also Reinforced it with some aluminum (1 1/2 X1/8) between the rear and side fenders. The radius on the rear deck is larger than the rear panel. With a little pressure the 2 pull together very nice. Also had to add a wire and turn buckle to pull the rear panel in to match the seams between the two in the center.

Worked good for me on #49

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

I removed the flimsy fiberglass tabs from the rear clip and made my own tabs from aluminum, spaced down and attached to the fenders to get a better angle

[Buzz Skyline]

I removed the flimsy fiberglass tabs from the rear clip and made my own tabs from aluminum, spaced down and attached to the fenders to get a better angle

That sounds like a great solution. Do you mind posting a picture or pointing us to an image in your build thread?

[RM1SepEx]

I just waded through my photos, amazing that I didn't have any! However, this is a shot of the spacer and tab assembly. I haven't installed them on my new panels yet. I'm using locking hood pins there so the pin doesn't go up through a hole, the lock is flush on the panel.

The three screws are mounted through the hidden flange at the rear of the rear fenders. I put them there as the flanges are at a closer angle to the trunk panel as compared to the rear clip, that isn't an issue if you use simple hood pins. Mine came with Chrome and stainless surrounds but I like them better without them

38899 38900 38901

The tab itself is 1/8 aluminum plate, I used two 3/8 spacers

[CU9DZ]

I bought 4 sets of Trans Dapt hood lock #4062. I was going to use 2 sets for hood, one set for front of engine cover and one set for back of trunk lid. Now that I installed the rear sets I realized that each set has a different lock. The ones I already opened have a code on key of A2817 and A2036. Two other sets have not been opened. Don't want to have to carry 4 sets of keys. Any ideas what I can do?
Davis

[wallace18]

I bought 4 sets of Trans Dapt hood lock #4062. I was going to use 2 sets for hood, one set for front of engine cover and one set for back of trunk lid. Now that I installed the rear sets I realized that each set has a different lock. The ones I already opened have a code on key of A2817 and A2036. Two other sets have not been opened. Don't want to have to carry 4 sets of keys. Any ideas what I can do?
Davis

Try taking them to a locksmith. He may be able to key them all the same.

[RM1SepEx]

Mine are all keyed the same

[CU9DZ]

Dan. I need more details. Where did you get the locking hood pins? What brand? Did you specify all keyed the same? I did not ask before I bought mine from Summit Racing.
Davis

[RM1SepEx]

Ebay, I bought the two sets that I am using and they came keyed alike.

[GUNS]

I bought shorter ones from Jegs. Check out my build thread for details: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8691-GUNS-818SR-Build-Thread/page10

[billjr212]

I thought I replied to this thread a long time ago. My solution was to drill out the threads on the top nut and weld it to the pin itself. I'm still practicing my welding skills, so always looking for something not structural to practice on. I welded it intentionally slightly too high on the pin, so I used a washer to then space the pin back up to the correct height based on final trunk lid fitment.

[D Clary]

I used quarter turn fasteners on the trunk lid and engine cover. I made small aluminum brackets for the bottom of the fastener. Five fasteners on the engine cover and 4 on the trunk lid.