About to order and a few questions about LS1 build

[Michael101]

New guy here.

I'm just about ready to make the call and order my 33 hot rod kit but have a few questions if you guys don't mind.

My donor car is a 2000 Camaro that I've owned for about 10 years. It's a Procharged LS1 and T56 setup. I'm in the process of parting that car out in preparation for the new HR arrival.

1. I doubt that the Procharger setup would work but wanted to ask anyway. Yes / No?
2. Is the Wilwood clutch MS adjustable? And if not, any opinions on weather my modified 'Tick Performance' clutch MS would fit with the Wilwood setup?
3. Any general LS1/T56 guidance would be appreciated.
4. Three link vs. four link. This is a street car build only, suggestions?

Thanks in advance guys.

[erlihemi]

I don't speak LS1, but I would try to keep the procharger. the wilwood clutch MS and pull slave are adjustable but you won't get those with a FFR kit. Is your T56 internal or external hydraulic?? with a procharger I would get an aftermaket 4 link with adjustable links AND mounting points to tune chassis.
i'm assuming you'll use a mustang rear?

[jayguy]

I don't see any reason the procharger wouldn't work. The LS1 should fit fine like any other SBC, and the HR chassis is a bit longer, so the T56 shouldn't have a problem either. Some guys using the T56 have shimmed it up a bit at the rear cross member to get a little more room between the top of the engine and firewall with Ford engines, that's something you can look at when you are at that stage though.

As for 3-link vs 4, I don't have direct experience with either, just been reading these forums for years, so this is just my opinion. If you're not planning on racing it or doing a lot of track days, it doesn't sound like there is much of a benefit to the 3-link. I don't plan on much more than an occasional autocross when I build mine, and it'll be more for fun than to try and win championships, so I will build with the 4-link. Another benefit of that is when I take weekend trips I won't have to work around the 3-link bulge in the trunk when packing in the bags.

There are actually a couple options for IRS available also. Dan Ruth (Dr Ruth, Innovative Rodding) has some bolt in IRS options, and Tim Whittaker (Kootenai Valley Customs) is working on one himself. That'll add a bit to the cost though, so probably not something to do if you're on a budget.

The best thing you can do is spend a lot of time reading through all the threads on this forum and on the other, and look at all the builds that have been done already. Keep notes, and ask as many questions as you can think of.

If you can, find someone near by that has one and go take a look. I've got one being built nearby now (LS3 Eco motor and automatic trans, 3-link), and another guy just ordered one to be delivered within a few weeks, and he'll be putting an LS1/auto in his.

Good luck, and don't forget to post alot.

Jay

[myjones]

I don't speak LS1, but I would try to keep the procharger. the wilwood clutch MS and pull slave are adjustable but you won't get those with a FFR kit. Is your T56 internal or external hydraulic?? with a procharger I would get an aftermaket 4 link with adjustable links AND mounting points to tune chassis.
i'm assuming you'll use a mustang rear?

The fact that you had a blown car before tells me you are likely more into HP than extremely tuned handling so EH is spot on about the 4 link. If you upgrade the 4 link later with Heims and tune it for proper IC after your ride height is set you will have a hard launch and a still have pretty good handling car. A lot of us have improved the 4 links and softened the coil overs for a street friendly ride. It will handle much better than the donor car AND be 1K lbs lighter.

Delete the FF fuel tank from your order no matter what they tell you has been changed on it. It is still not up to the quality of their chassis, not even close design wise.

Hemi's will fit too ;)

DB
7L Hemi 33