Newbie stuff...

[aarvig]

Hey guys,
First all let me say thanks to those of you who have already chimed in with advice on my previous questions. Here are a few more for you. First of all, after everyone's input and based on a lot of research (as I'm sure you all have done) I am going to build my roadster with a Dart or Boss based 347 stroker, three link rear end and possibly a TKO500 (jury is still out on the tranny). Here are my questions...

1.) Regarding aligning, is there information available that I can take to an alignment shop to have the car set up properly or how is this done? I have never aligned a vehicle before.
2.) What is the best way to store the body while I am building up the frame?
3.) Is power steering necessary for a guy with a somewhat bum left shoulder?
4.) Is power braking necessary or should I upgrade the existing brakes?
5.) Are fuel lines pre made or am I going to need a flaring tool and a tube bending tool?
6.) What is the average build time? I know FF says 250, but really?? What is your experience with time to build?
7.) Since the jury is out on the trans...what do you recommend for a trans with a 450hp 347? How about rear end gears? Thinking 3.55 but not sure yet.
8.) Is there a list of necessary tools for the build somewhere? I have a lot of tools already but just want to make sure I have what I need.
Thats all for now! Thanks in advance everyone!
Aaron

[DaleG]

I'll start this off; lots of good opinions on this forum. My take:

1. Recommended alignment specs are in the Manual. But, general consensus is:
Manual Steering
Toe In: 1/16"
Camber: -0.5 degrees
Caster: 3-4 degrees

Power Steering
Toe In: 1/16"
Camber: -0.5 degrees
Caster: 6-7 degrees

2. On a body buck as outlined in the Manual. Someone near you may have one.
3. Yes.
4. Lots for, lots against; suggest you search the threads and then decide. I would recommend killing 2 birds (PS and PB) with a hydroboost unit.
5. You will have to bend the fuel lines and brake lines, so get a good tubing bender; layout the lines with coat-hanger wire and use these as a bending guide. You will most likely need a flaring tool and a tubing cutter to make all fit just right, unless you augment the runs with flex hose. You can follow the manual, or upgrade with various lines, fittings, etc.
6. Up to you. It's all over the board. I suppose 250 is reasonable (w/o body-work/paint) if there are no issues and you do everything right the first time (not my case:o).
7. TKO 500/600 or Gordon's "super" T-5. 3.55 is very popular, but be sure your tranny gear selection matches your needs; plenty of info/discussions available via the "search" function.
8. Read through the Manual and you'll find some specialty tools are required, like a 32(?)mm socket. You'll need cleco fasteners, good wire-cutting and crimping tools. Each section of the Manual list tools required to get the job done. Don't scrimp on drill bit quality. Oh, also a set of step-drill bits.

Have fun, and if you do not have the build Manual yet, order it.
Cheers, Dale

[edwardb]

Good choice for the engine! (OK, so I did my Mk4 with a DART 347, so not exactly unbiased). Just to add a few things from Dale's response:

1. Specs are as listed. Take to an alignment shop that does performance cars, and are used to the types of components these have. Don't take it to your corner tire store with the high school kid on the alignment machine. Another suggestion. Learn to do it yourself. It's not hard. I hadn't done any alignment work before either. Neither of my builds have been to an alignment shop. You need a camber/caster gauge and some patience. Many of us use the Specialty Products Company 91000 FasTrax Camber/Caster Gauge.

2. Yep, on a body buck. Some guys hang them from the ceiling. I've used an elevated body buck that rolls over the chassis. Pictures available if necessary.

3. Agree, yes. Don't let the minions talk you out of it.

4. Both of my builds have power brakes. But, if you're using the now pretty much standard Wilwood pedal box, power brakes (either vacuum or hydroboost) take the designed in balance capability away. With the right brakes and pads, manual can be made to work very well.

5. Yep, get ready to bend and flare. Practice if you haven't done it before. Don't be afraid to ruin a few pieces. The stuff's not expensive. It's not hard with the right tools.

6. Agree this is all over the place. I'm a very slow builder. I'm probably several times more hours than FFR suggests. Take your time and don't feel rushed. Go at the speed you're comfortable with and just keep making steady progress.

7. I did the TKO600 behind my DART 347. Very little difference in price compared to the 500, and I like the extra strength. Rear diff ratio has many variables, and you need to calculate what works best for your planned use and parts. Dale is right. 3.55 is probably the most common, especially for the 5.0 engines. For the stronger 347, still will work well. Or you might consider 3.27. That's what I ended up doing on my build.

8. Agreed, manual lists all the tools necessary. You may want to consider an air powered rivet gun. Didn't have one for my first build. Added it for my second and won't be without one again. Some guys use the one from Harbor Freight. It's cheap, but reviews seem hit or miss. I bought a Campbell Hausfeld at my local tool store. A little more money, but a quality piece and never missed a pull during my entire build. Highly recommended. Now if you start down the path of making modifications, then all bets are off.

Good luck!

[DaleG]

X2 what edwardb said. Forgot about the pneumatic rivet gun; an absolute must!

[aarvig]

Thanks for the replies guys. So hydroboost for the power brakes, what do you recommend for the power steering option? I have seen Breeze automotive mentioned regarding power steering. Do you guys agree? Should I order the offsets as well?

[DaleG]

I'm sure others who have sourced Breeze or others for power steering will chime in; I have little experience with the various setups. I did use the offset bushings; make rack adjustment a "breeze":).

[edwardb]

Thanks for the replies guys. So hydroboost for the power brakes, what do you recommend for the power steering option? I have seen Breeze automotive mentioned regarding power steering. Do you guys agree? Should I order the offsets as well?

Hydroboost is certainly an option for power brakes, and especially if you're going with power steering you have the pump. Just some additional plumbing. But there is some complexity and it's not cheap. Vacuum power brakes are another option. Whitby sells a kit that makes it pretty easy. Once it's in place, just a simple vacuum hose to power it, and gives a nice assist to the brakes. I've done both -- hydroboost and vacuum -- both have their plusses and minuses. Once in place, probably similar in use. But just to be clear, either choice means you no longer have the separate master cylinders (front and rear) in the Wilwood pedal box. This removes the balance bar and the ability to adjust front/rear balance in this way. Both require a minor mod to use with the Wilwood box to hang a typical dual master cylinder on the front of the Wilwood box and be actuated from the Wilwood pedal arm.

For the power steering, Mark at Breeze is an excellent resource. He knows these cars and provides excellent parts and support. In this case, you will need to know what engine and front dress you plan to use in order to source and setup up the engine driven pump. Mark can help with the pump, mounting brackets, pulley, hoses, fittings, etc. He can also provide an excellent power steering rack. There are certainly other sources. But he's a good one. Regarding the offset bushings, I've used them on both of my builds. I found the Mk3 definitely needed them to center up the rack. The Mk4, however, ended with with them straight up and down meaning the rack would have been centered without them. I recall reading somewhere that FF might have changed the chassis for the Mk4 and centered the rack better. But I'm not positive. They certainly don't hurt anything, but may not be necessary for a Mk4. Others may have a different experience.

[Avalanche325]

Here are my additions.

1.) Fastrax is easy to use, but it takes some time. All of the fancy equipment that the alignment shop has makes it fast.
2.) Body buck. Plans are in the manual.
3.) Power steering - YES!
4.) Is power braking necessary or should I upgrade the existing brakes? - I HIGHLY recommend the Wilwood brakes. Unless you think a car can stop too fast. If not Wilwoods then yes on power. There are several "my brakes suck" threads for stock manual ones.
5.) Fuel lines - Going over 400hp you will want to consider going up on the fuel line size. Stay away from flex lines except from frame to engine.
6.) What is the average build time? I know FF says 250, but really?? What is your experience with time to build? I am at 3 years. But am not in a hurry, and drove in gel coat for 3 or 4 months.
7.) Since the jury is out on the trans...what do you recommend for a trans with a 450hp 347? How about rear end gears? Thinking 3.55 but not sure yet. I have a 500hp 347 and went with a TKO600. If you feel you need an aftermarket block, you certainly need the stronger transmission. 3.31 or 3.55 should be fine coupled to a road race TKO600.

Here is my opinion on the block. A stock block is fine up to around 550hp unless you are doing a 7000+ RPM screamer. Of course, the aftermarket blocks are stronger with only a little more weight. Well, less weight in your wallet. I like the DART block better than the Boss. The cylinders are longer.