Tanderson1's build thread..

[tanderson1]

my old makita grinder finally let out the magical smoke, so i went out and bought another one used for $60... was still in the box. Makita makes some solid tools, my last grinder was at least 20 years old.
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Everything mocked up now (had to come off one more time for silicone. After this i removed all of the aluminum from the tunnel, made a wiring harness for the AC compressor complete with an ECU wire and put it all into split loom with heat shrink on the ends. I then attached both of the front mounted Vintage Air vent lines to the Vintage air unit. It was at this point that i noticed that the vintage air electrical unit on top was mounted so tight to the aluminum panel that the connectors would not fit.
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Here you can see how i moved the Vintage Air electrical box. It was a pain in the *** to move as the screws were not not accessable. This one is on me, i should have noticed when i was mounting the foot box aluminum that i was blocking both the electrical connections and the mounting screws. I used a pair of needle nose channel locks to spin the screws out slowly from the top then bent the ends of the bracket out so i could mount it on the vertical aluminum on the passenger footwell. I also mounted a piece of rubber to the bottom of the control unit so it mounted tightly without it being able to vibrate when the car moves.
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Time to hit the other side, i removed the driver seat, floor, gas tank, etc. I also had to move some wiring harnesses that i stupidly put though the frame where the aluminum needed to mount.
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Before closing up the tunnel i drilled in 4 rivnuts and mounted the coolant lines as secure as possible.
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This is where i stopped taking photos but i did get some more stuff completed.

I mounted the small piece of aluminum to the passenger side foot well at the top and sealed all the holes
mounted all of the tunnel aluminum with sealant and rivets
Riveted on the AC compressor cover.
Mounted the front aluminum piece that mounts beside the master cylinders


So here is my updated list

Mount the ODB2 connector by the steering wheel (to the square tubing between the console and the column
My engine harness has a fuse block of 5 fuses... needs a place to live under the dash.
move the fuel pump filter to make room for the dual FF cold air intake.
finish off the wiring and test it all out
Weld nuts to the drivers seat brackets + paint black (so i don't need two wrenches to remove the seats)
finish the tunnel aluminum
finish bolting AC accumulator together (pressure test it)
Add the drain line to the AC unit and route it out the bottom
Wrap the headers
cut the holes in the top aluminum for the AC vent ducts
put safety wire on the rear axle bolts again (removed a while ago to fix something)
Mount the horn
make a bracket to support the Kooks exhaust
install the fuel tank vents + roll over valves
Install the fuel pump controller


And here are the 4 items i finished after my 18 hours in the garage.

mount the passenger seat (driver side required some welding, i will do the same to the other side)
rivet in the front piece of aluminum above the AC unit.
Add the small piece of aluminum in the top of the passenger foot well
make a metal plate to fill the factory fuse panel hole in the back. Then mount the fan fuses and relays to it


as i type this my fingers can barely move, drilling holes and putting in a few hundred rivets is really hard on the hands.

but i loved every minute of it.

[beeman]

Great progress, sounds like things are moving along!

One of the things about building the the GTM is packaging. How to get X into 0.9X space. Or maybe 0.8X space. Roadster builders don't get it (I certainly didn't at the time). OEM-based car builders don't have a clue. It really comes down to millimeters fairly often.

[tanderson1]

I find myself still stumped with the AC wiring to the ECU.

i already have a fan override relay that will kick the fans on when i ground it out. What i need now is the PCM to disengage the compressors clutch above a certain RPM. I believe the PCM will also slightly increase idle while the AC is on. (not sure if that is true, i read it on a corvette forum)

I found the PCM pinouts for my factory C5 Corvette ECU.
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As i mentioned (almost a year ago) in this thread these are the pins that i think i need.
C2 Pin 14 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Signal
C2 Pin 17 A/C Request Signal
C2 Pin 18 A/C Compressor clutch supply voltage

But it looks like these pins may also be involved.
C2 Pin 43 A/C Clutch relay control
C1 Pin 45 A/C 5 volt reference for Refrigerant Pressure Sensor

So here is what i am currently thinking.

There has to be a way to program the PCM to ignore the pressure Sensor, I shouldn't need it as i believe that the Trinary switch does this already. This means i can ignore C1 45 and C2 14
I believe the request to turn on the AC compressor should go to pin C2 17 (my guess is pulling this to 12 volts tells the PCM that we are requesting the compressor to turn on)
I believe the C2 43 grounds out when all of the conditions are positive and the AC clutch should be engaged. I think this should be fed into a relay that drives the clutch on the compressor, or maybe its goes high to 12 volts when conditions are met?
c2 Pin 18 could help drive that relay above but is not required, i could just pull IGN +12 instead.


Anyone out there done this before with a stock PCM?

[beeman]

Have you looked at the Automatic and Manual A/C systems and A/C compressor schematics in the C5 wiring diagrams?
Here's a link
http://www.tuningconcepts.com/Cars/C5/Manuals/2000%20WIRING.pdf

[tanderson1]

Thanks Beeman, i think this will answer a lot of my questions. I am printing it out right now to study.

I did not have a copy of the corvette wiring diagram, I searched on google before but there seems to be more miss information on the net the facts.

Ok, here is what i learned from Beeman's fantastic document

How to trigger the AC compressor
- C1 43 goes to ground, this wires to a relay with a 10 amp fuse on the positive wire, the triggered lines of the relay go to +12V (on the same 10Amp fuse) and the compressor + line. The compressor Neg line goes straight to a ground.
- I need a diode across the Compressor ground and 12V (not sure why, but not a problem)
- C1 18 ties in to the switched 12V after the relay, this must sense the function of the relay. I assume a check engine light pops up if this is left out.
- the pressure sensor is a variable resistor... should be able to fake this out with a resistor or just reprogram the ECU to not care.

How to request the PCM to run the AC compressor
- C1 17 is responsible (pg 752 of the GTM manual says that this wire color has to connect to the "blue 12V source wire from the Vintage air unit to the A/C signal wire (the vintage air power wire is Blue).")


So i guess the only question left is around the lack of pressure switch signal. Will the ECU notice? Do i have to reprogram the ECU to ignore it?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

You will have to wire in the donor C5 Trinary switch. FFR puts a port in the AC line specifically for that...you should see that port in the AC hose near the engine crank pulley. So in the end, the whole AC system is wired up just like it was in the Corvette.....the C5 Trinary switch will determine if/when the AC compressor will cycle as well as turn on the cooling fans if you have the cooling fans wired per the FFR manual so that they are controlled by the ECU. This is by far the easiest way to do it since you retain all of the production Corvette functionality including the ECU kicking the AC compressor off at WOT and above a certain RPM so you don't grenade your AC compressor, controls the idle speed when the AC is on, controls the cooling fans, etc.

[tanderson1]

i was wondering what that little port was for on the AC line. Now i know.

I think the C5 sensor looks like this (https://www.amazon.ca/Conditioner-Pressure-Switch-Chevrolet-22664328/dp/B07FNGKXRB/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=22664328&qid=1555434113&s=gateway&sr=8-1)

My donor is long gone but i think i kept all of the factory AC lines and wiring harnesses. I will have a look when i get home tonight.

I only had an hour to spare last night, so i managed to rivet in the fuse panel closeout and mount my engine harness fuses and relays to it. The FFR cold air kit will still have enough room to fit.
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This is what all of the freshly riveted passenger side panels look like.
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With the little bit of time i had left i predrilled 2 of the 4 driver side tunnel panels.
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Tonight i only have an hour or so, but I should be able to figure out the C5 AC pressure switch and predrill the last 2 Tunnel panels.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

i was wondering what that little port was for on the AC line. Now i know.

I think the C5 sensor looks like this (https://www.amazon.ca/Conditioner-Pressure-Switch-Chevrolet-22664328/dp/B07FNGKXRB/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=22664328&qid=1555434113&s=gateway&sr=8-1)



Yes, that is the correct sensor...and you will need the pigtail connector to go with it....which should be with the donor harness of course.

[tanderson1]

I found the sensor and the connector on the wiring harness. Tonight i will make some time to strip back the harness and de-pin them from the ECU connector. I should be able to just slide those pins into the new harness.
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I finished drilling all the holes for the rest of the tunnel aluminum. I should be done drilling for a while now :-)
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So am i correct in assuming that i no longer need the FF trinary switch that is mounted at the front. I believe the ECU will now handle that function as well as the activation of the fan's. So i should only need to supply the Vintage air unit with fused power and take the blue vintage air (activation) wire and splice it off to also feed the ECU A/C input.

I also downloaded my local jurisdictions vehicle requirement list. I plan to go through all 83 pages and make sure that i have provisions for each requirement. It covers items like side marker lights and their locations, parking brakes, wipers, horn, etc and all of the specific laws around each one.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

So am i correct in assuming that i no longer need the FF trinary switch that is mounted at the front. I believe the ECU will now handle that function as well as the activation of the fan's. So i should only need to supply the Vintage air unit with fused power and take the blue vintage air (activation) wire and splice it off to also feed the ECU A/C input.



Correct.....there should be no need for the VA pressure/trinary switch at the front. The blue VA wire...no need to splice it into any other circuit....it should only run to the ECU "AC Request" input and that's it.....where else did you have that going?

BTW....yes you do need the diode at the compressor coil connection and that is a shunt diode to dump the voltage spike of the compressor coil back into the coil. Just like an ignition coil, once the AC clutch coil (or any relay coil) is energized and then you disconnect power, the magnetic field collapses and creates a huge voltage spike. The ignition coils use this huge spike to jump the gap at the spark plugs. With the AC clutch, it just dumps that huge voltage spike back into the electrical system which can fry electronic components in a heartbeat. The diode takes that voltage spike and dumps it right back into the clutch coil to prevent the spike from ever happening.

[tanderson1]

I performed a little wiring harness surgery yesterday. I didn't have the original AC pressure switch connector as it sits on the opposite side of the large round connector on the engine harness and I no longer have that part of the harness. But good news, there is an identical connector on the engine harness with slightly different wire colors, also as a bonus if you use it the wire lengths are a perfect length to get from the factory GTM PCM location to the factory GTM pressure sensor location. The connector has a grey, black and brown wire. Grey and black match the old connector, the brown wire can be treated as if its red.

Here is how I removed the old pins from the old harness and moved them to the new harness

Step 1 remove the plastic colored plug end by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into the left and right side of each colored plastic cap. Pull up on the colored cap at the same time. it will pop off.
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Now remove the plastic cap from the back with the same small flat blade screwdriver. There are 6 plastic clips that need to be pried off, i found it was easiest to work on them in pairs from left to right popping them out one by one being careful not to let them pop back into place.
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Now you can remove the pin by applying a slight amount of pressure to the latch and pushing the pin back through the connector (toward the wire side)
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Now strip back all the old wire loom and tape and you will have a stand-alone harness
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Apply new wire loom and heat shrink tubing to make it look like new.
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I then took apart my new engine harness and pushed each wire into the correct pin.

I did the same for the AC request wire and AC trigger wire. Those two cables go from the PCM to the round connector as well. I took those wires and fed them into a new female weatherpac connector with some new wire loom. I will plug that female connector into a new male connector that will go though the tunnel toward the vintage air unit. I will place the relay and diode in the tunnel under right near the front of the engine. I started working on the diode and relay portion of the AC harness. I finished it but figured it was best to leave it out and double check all the wiring tomorrow.

[tanderson1]

OK, onto the body portion of the wiring. Some of this may be wrong, looking for feedback

5 pole relays
- #1 High beam relay (use the 5th pole to disable the fog lights when the high beams are on)
- #2 Door Locks (lock)
- #3 Door Locks (unlock)
- #4 Column In ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)
- #5 Column Out ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)

4 pole relays
- #6 Fog light relay (wired through High beam relays off pole)
- #7 Park light relay
- #8 Horn
- #9 Brake Lights

Engine Bay relays
- #1 AC Compressor Trigger
- #2 Fan 1
- #3 Fan 2

Diodes
- Hazard lights (left signal)
- Hazard lights (right signal)
- AC Compressor

Hazard lights.
I am going to wire them up like this photo
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Brake lights
At the peddle the switch needs 2 wires, one to the PCM to cancel cruise and the other to a relay to run to a relay that operates the brake lights.

Fog lights.
The fog lights cannot function at the same time as the high beams in my province (this is in the government regulations document). I plan to use the 5th pin on the high beams relay to deliver power to the fog light relay. This will ensure that they cannot be used together.

High Beams
Provincial rules again, i have to have a high beam indicator on the dash, a simple blue led drilled into the gauge cluster should take care of it.

low beams
Provincial rules , i need to have day time running lights in the front. I think i will run the low beam filament all the time, then use the high beam 5th relay pole to disable the low beam filament so i don't run both at the same time. The low beam switch on the column would just turn on the tail lights and the side marker lights (another provincial requirement)

Side Markers
By law where i live 4 side marker lights are required. two in the front (amber) and 2 in the back (red). These have to light up with the high beams and the low beams. This should also include the license plate light. I can use 2 diodes, one off the high beams and one off the low beams to run this circuit.

License plate light
Triggered along with the low beams or high beams, Just wire this into the same circuit as the Side Marker lights. (see above)

Door Locks
I need a lock and unlock wire to ground out for the alarm system, may as well use it for the center console as well.
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Fans
these are wired in to the PCM using 1 relay for each fan. I have located these relays next to the PCM in the engine bay.

Cruise
This all goes directly back to the PCM, I need one additional wire for the brake signal to head back to the PCM to cancel cruise.

Reverse lights
Ign + run back to the switch on the trans, then to the reverse lights. I am also going to feed the switched signal back up to the dash. I can use this to flip on a rear view camera.

Radio
Acc +, 12v+, Speaker left door, Speaker right door, Amp wire to run behind passenger seat, RCA cables to run behind passenger seat, then one last set of speaker wire between the passenger and driver seats. The end result would be some kind of deck or computer in the dash, a small amp behind the passenger seat and a sub-woofer behind the driver seat.

Parking Lights
I still need to figure this out, are these separate filaments in the bulbs? Do Parking lights turn on the side markers as well?

Wiper Spray
No relay, straight from switch to the pump.

Wiper Speeds
factory harness straight from column to motor.

Power column
There are 2 wires that control the motor and another pair of wires that look like they go to a variable resistor. I was thinking about making a little box that takes Acc and 12v+, the resistor outputs, the switch inputs and the motor outputs. This would then make note of the columns distance when turning off the ignition and restore it when turning the ign back on. I could use a small Arduino that goes to sleep until it sees Acc come back on so it draws very little power. I think i will create the wiring harnesses now and leave them under the column and finish this project later.

Power Mirrors
I need a switch (i found some online but they are very expensive). I think a trip to the junkyard should turn up a small switch with a joystick and a switch that selects the left and right mirrors. For now i will extend all of the passenger side mirror wires over into the driver side door. All of the logic and control will end up in the driver side door.

Power Windows
The two wires on the window motor for the driver and passenger door will both run to the center console. These then wire into the FF window motor switches. I plan to add a window roll up module to the alarm at some point. This will roll the windows back up. The viper alarm system needs a wire for up and a wire for down, the module then wires in between the switch and the motor. I have to sit down and work this one out on paper.

Horn
The horn needs a relay according to what i have read. seems easy enough.

Heater
There is a wire on the vintage air unit to trigger the heater bypass to stop bypassing. This will feed to a small vacuum pump, that will trigger the unit i bought that will send hot coolant though the vintage air unit. I don't think i need a relay for this.

Alarm
I think the right unit for me is the Viper 5904 2 way with remote start. This will need to wire into the lock/unlock, ignition, window motors, siren, horn.


Things i may still add


HDMI or other cable to run a camera mounted to the back. I would also need power for that camera and a trigger reverse wire to make the whole thing turn on.
Door poppers, hooked to the alarm
dome light switches on the doors + a dome light. I think the remote start needs this as well.
12v Acc (lighter plug)



Do i have anything wrong? or am i missing something?

[tanderson1]

I found some LCD mirrors that could work out.
This one doesn't have the windshield mount but looks good. (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HGDO-10-inch-Touch-screen-Car-DVR-Rear-View-Mirror-Dash-cam-Full-HD-Car-Camera/32962571463.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.31.7cea76c3 hg4syT&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_10_10065_1 0068_10130_10547_319_10059_10884_317_10548_10887_1 0696_321_322_10084_453_10083_454_10103_10618_10307 _537_536,searchweb201603_80,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=5ebd443b-ce44-4289-86df-e57c852e101d-4&algo_pvid=5ebd443b-ce44-4289-86df-e57c852e101d)

Same with this one. (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/JADO-D230-Stream-RearView-Mirror-Dvr-dash-Camera-avtoregistrator-10-IPS-Touch-Screen-Full-HD-1080P/32959398506.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.17.7cea76c3 hg4syT&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_10_10065_1 0068_10130_10547_319_10059_10884_317_10548_10887_1 0696_321_322_10084_453_10083_454_10103_10618_10307 _537_536,searchweb201603_80,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=5ebd443b-ce44-4289-86df-e57c852e101d-2&algo_pvid=5ebd443b-ce44-4289-86df-e57c852e101d)

I like the Edge to edge LCD, I think i would just leave it in rearview mode at all time.

[beeman]

Here's the one I ended up buying based on good reviews, but I haven't installed it yet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3NCMXN

So the problem with a system like this is that I'm going to use it as a dedicated rear view mirror, but the rear cameras are wide angle so you can't really see what kind of traffic is coming up behind you.

Does anyone know of a waterproof hi-res narrow angle camera to toggle with the backup camera?

[tanderson1]

Beeman, that mirror looks great. Do you plan on mounting that to the kit mirror or modifying it to work on its own? I am also curious if the unit defaults to the rear view camera when the car starts or do you have to hit a button to get it into that mode. I also found this unit (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FANSICOUK-10-Streaming-Rearview-Mirror-Camera-1920-1080P-Dash-Cam-Dual-Lens-Auto-Camera-Night-Vision/32985876763.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.107.541c454 2T4d6qw&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_10_10065_1 0068_10130_10547_319_10059_10884_317_10548_10887_1 0696_321_322_10084_453_10083_454_10103_10618_10307 _537_536,searchweb201603_80,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=08892be7-b2b8-4ec3-8737-7145a19a8f48-16&algo_pvid=08892be7-b2b8-4ec3-8737-7145a19a8f48)that has the windshield mount as well. Here is a list of cameras (https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20190419212657&SearchText=rear+view+camera%2C+2.5mm) that may work with your unit, some of these should be narrow angle.

had a few hours to spare today so i got a few things done.


Mounted the ODB2 connector by the steering wheel (to the square tubing between the console and the column. I used 2 rivnuts.
Added a series of rivnuts and wire clips to the foot wells and tunnel. These will be used to secure up wires so they don't get stuck in moving items like the power column
My engine harness has a fuse block of 5 fuses... it is now mounted under the dash securely.
Added the drain line to the AC unit and routed it out the bottom of the car
Found a home for the relay holder. I ended up putting it on the passenger side and will run the wires over, space is at a premium in the drivers foot well right now. It will hold 8 relays, although i may need more then 8 once the alarm system is added into the mix.
install steering wheel horn wire. This was harder then i planned. The ground ring that was supplied didn't fit, i had to modify it with the side grinder to get it to fit around the horn button. I also added the clock spring that i had bought previously.
Weld nuts to the drivers seat brackets + paint black (so i don't need two wrenches to remove the seat)
Completed a lot of wiring and put it in loom.


on top of that i made another order, i picked up door switches (for the alarm/dome light), new power mirror switch, and 2 door lock solenoids.

I think i have 1 or two more days of wiring and testing before i am ready to throw on the top aluminum and mount the body.

If anyone has any input on the circuits that they put on relays because the switches coudn't handle the current i am all ears.... Painless instructions seem light on relays in my opinion.

[beeman]

I'll mount it on the front roof bar, probably incorporated into an overhead console. So I might have to tear it apart to move the forward facing DVR camera since it'll be looking at the chassis tubing.

[tanderson1]

Today:

Drilled holes in the tunnel aluminum for the fuel crossover.
experienced pain while installing the painless harness.... They lie!!
decided it was easier to remove most of the wires from the painless harness, cut all the zipties and put the wires in one by one to the locations that i needed them.
Drew out some more wiring diagrams.
put a second coat of paint on the drivers side seat brackets i welded up yesterday.
received the stuff i ordered yesterday, power mirror controls, power door locks, door switches
ordered a set of grommets to use where wires have to pass through aluminum.


Here is what i ended up with for relays.

Mounted to 8 relay block in the passenger foot well.
- #1 High beam relay (use the 5th pole to disable the fog lights when the high beams are on)
- #2 Low Beams
- #3 Park light relay (the gauge of wire that painless uses makes me think that maybe these done need a relay)
- #4 Brake Lights
- #5 reverse lights
- #6 left signal
- #7 right signal

The 8 relay block is modular and i can buy another one and click in more relay slots... so i ordered another one to add these relays
- #9 Fog light relay (wired through High beam relays off pole)
- #10 Door Locks (lock) I am using a Viper alarm, needs a ground trigger
- #11 Door Locks (unlock) I am using a Viper alarm, needs a ground trigger
- #12 Column In ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)
- #13 Column Out ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)

AC unit (mounted in passenger foot well)
- #1 Heater Valve (already in VA harness)
- #2 Compressor relay (Already in VA harness... I believe i could remove this)

Engine Bay relays
- #1 AC Compressor Trigger (from PCM, lets the PCM toggle the compressor)
- #2 Fan 1
- #3 Fan 2

Painless harness
- #4 Horn (the gauge of wire that painless uses makes me think that maybe these done need a relay)

[KGTM]

lots of wire/slices to do, make sure these all are fused as something always goes wrong want to make sure it is all protected.

[tanderson1]

Click on this image to get the larger version.
106193

So far this is my wiring, i know some of these dont technically need relays but it makes me feel better having them. I couldnt find the maximum amp raitings of the column controls so this is the safest option and easy to diagnose.



All painless wires are used as low current inputs (so i can downgrade the painless fuses to match).
All painless + triggers are brought into relay terminal 86 so the integrated diodes can do their job.
Fog lights and headlights will function properly and not operate at the same time (as per code here in Canada)
license plate and marker lights will work (as per code here in Canada)
All high current circuits get their own fuse (these are integrated into the relay block)
hazard lights will work using 2 diodes
Day time running lights (as per code here in Canada) will be accomplished by just wiring past the switch and leaving the the lows on all the time (including tail lights)
Turning the high beams on will turn off the low beams
door locks will be compatible with the Viper alarm i am installing
AC compressor uses the factory PCM, (so i can remove one relay from the Vintage Air harness)

[KGTM]

Boy have fun wiring, lot of wires if any thing goes wrong later will be hell to debug specially after the car is all closed up.

Be careful with the diodes, they could get hot depending on the load, specially if one is driving several lights. also they are fused with 30A any shorts on the lights may blow then up before the fuse unless it is really a large diode.

Mostafa

[tanderson1]

I'm not to worried about having any electrical problems down the road, i have left all junctions and relays in accessible locations, there is nothing that will be "closed up" and inaccessible and it will be easy to diagnose issues with all of the documentation i am creating. All of my wires pass through grommets and are also in split loom so the chances of a short are very low. I have also used the proper crimping tools and used proper practices for all of the junctions and connectors. Cars have been wired this way for many years, i have no doubt it will be reliable.

On top of all of that i have left the engine harness and body harness as completely different harnesses wired to separate master fuses.

The diodes i am using are large socketed automotive diodes, I bought a bunch of diodes and sockets just in case.

My plan is to put some diodes, fuses short lengths of wire and a few relays in a zip lock bag and secure it up under the dash. If anything does happen i will be ready. :-)

[tanderson1]

Onto the wiring for the power mirrors.

I bought a mirror switch that i liked the look of for $26CAD on Amazon (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00IY2BB0Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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Now that i have a switch i need the wiring pigtail for it. I have 2 options:

Get it from one of the vehicles on this site (https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-73325-901-342.aspx) and cut it off. (junk yard run)
buy it new.


Here are the mouser part numbers and prices to but it new. (about $3.00)
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Now we need to figure out the pinout. Lucky for me someone has already figured that out.
106240

So onto how we will wire this up. I think 18 gauge wire should be sufficent for this task. Now i may have the polarity wrong on this diagram, so up may be down, down may be up.... i need to wire it all up on the bench first to see if this is right. If this all works out i only need 4 wires to travel from the drivers door to the passenger door
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[KGTM]

Is that the Side mirror mating connectors? I need them for 2004 also.

[tanderson1]

That connector that i linked to is for the mirror switch off of a Ford.

Mouser will sell the mirror connector as well but you would have to find it on their site. When i get home i will take a look at the mirror connector and see if i can find it.

[KGTM]

I have ti check my mirror connectors over the weeks end, since the doors are next.

[tanderson1]

Here are the photos of the power mirror connector. My mirrors dont have memory. I believe they both have the same connector. I think the mirrors with memory use an additional plug for the memory functions.

The connector is not a Molex connector, its made by PED

The markings on the front say:
9
PED
DCBA

The markings on the back say:
HGFE

106288106289106290106291106292

I think this is the Chevy wiring page that relates to this connector. It calls it an "8-way M Metri-Pack 150 Series (BLK)"

106295

Here is the connector on Mouser (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/12059558?qs=2dTh2tN8y7L%252BXwuNuAOIGA==)
you will also need the pins from Mouser as well (Assuming that is the right connector)

[tanderson1]

I mentioned before that the horn ground ring had to be modified to fit. This is what i had to do. After i cut off the majority of the collar i used a file to remove the sharp bits.
106296

These are the two relays for the VA unit. I had to remove these connectors to fit the wires though a grommet.
106297

These are the new door switches i bought. Not to be installed soon, need the body on first. They just arrived in the mail.
106298

This is the new electic mirror control switch, Also just arrived in the mail.
106299106300106301

Door unlock solonoids arrived in the mail as well.
106302

I hooked the mirrors up on the bench and verified that the motors work and the wires work the way i think they do. I still need the connector for the switch before i can test the system as a whole.
106303

I adjusted the fuel pump filters to make room for the factory five cold air intake. I think this will leave just enough room. It will make it a little hard to read the fuel pressure gauge but i dont see that as a big deal.
106305106304

[tanderson1]

I have been stopped from finishing the wiring for the last few days because i am waiting for some large firewall grommets to be delivered. I decided that it will be easier to route the main power wires, passenger door wires and relay wires though the AC section under the dash. However the AC section is technically outside the car and needs to be air tight from the inside. So i will use two firewall boots that secure with zip ties to seal off the connections and prevent the wires from touching the aluminum. I tried to buy grommets from the usual places but none had them, or were able to get them... so in the end i had to order 2 from amazon for $50... ouch. I am a little jelous when i see what some of these parts cost in the USA, even with the currency conversion i often pay double.

So here is my updated list of items that need to be completed before mounting the body:

6 hours finish off the wiring and test it all out. (No small task)
1 hour finish bolting AC accumulator together, check to see if i put the filter in, oil the o rings.
4 hours Take the car to a place that can fill the AC unit.
2 hours Test the AC unit to make sure it works.
3 hours Wrap the headers
1 hour cut the holes in the top aluminum for the AC vent ducts
1 hour Rivet in the top aluminum piece.
1 hour put safety wire on the rear axle bolts again (removed a while ago to fix something)
1 hour reinstall the fuel tanks, vents + roll over valves
1 hour Install the fuel pump controller
2 hours go to the junk yard to find a mirror switch pigtail for the switch i bought.

(total 23 hours)

Things i was thinking i might do now or later

Install a line lock kit (easy enough to do after the body/hood is installed... maybe i will put the wires in now.
Front sway bar (easy enough to do after the body is mounted.
Rear sway bar kit. I think this might have to be done before the body goes on for the last time.
Trans oil cooler. Radiator mount might be a good thing to work out before the body is mounted.
2 hours make a bracket to support the Kooks exhaust
Purchase the rest of the wing and mount it to ensure the spacing is correct before mounting the body.

[KGTM]

boy this will take me 10 times longer, there are lots of stuff here for few days, I could only do few of then a day, no wonder it has been long time for me.

[tanderson1]

the firewall grommets arrived this morning.

106349106350

unfortunately no time to work on the car tonight... or tomorrow.

but I do have a few dedicated hours on the weekend...

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Best be careful!!!...that rubber grommet causes cancer in CA.....:rolleyes:

[beeman]

Best be careful!!!...that rubber grommet causes cancer in CA.....:rolleyes:

Is California still a location? Or a disease? What do they say about that big cancer-causing ball in the sky?

[tanderson1]

Best be careful!!!...that rubber grommet causes cancer in CA.....:rolleyes:

i noticed that... i will try my hardest not to eat the grommet.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

As far as the law goes in CA....I don't think you need to eat it.....it just needs to be in the same room with you and it can give you cancer.

[tanderson1]

im sure thats the outside portion of the grommet that causes cancer right.... not the part inside the cabin with me :-)

I wonder if they tell you when you buy a car that cars are known by the state of California to give you cancer.

[Roger Reid]

Prop 65 is not funny. My company got caught up in it and it cost us half a mil to get through it. My company builds water filters for drinking water. Prop 65 allows individual California residents (IE lawyers) to sue individuals and companies who sell products into California that have detectable levels of any substance they currently ban. The USEPA has used a lead level of 10 milligrams or parts per billion (PPB) for many years. Yes I repeat Billion. Recently California legislated language banning "any detectable level of lead". Yes zero. Testing procedures have improved now to detect less than 1 PPB. The lawyers jumped on it. If a filter producer used brass fittings to assemble a drinking water system you were sued. I didn't matter if the USEPA continues to use 10 PPB, California language said any detectable level. Well the lawyers got together with all those being sued and settled on 5 PPB. Just enough to catch all the manufacturers and fine each manufacturer hundreds of thousands of dollars payable to the lawyers themselves according to Prop 65. Prop 65 allowed the lawyers the ability to be the enforcement arm of the California lawmakers. So most everyone selling any product in California has added warning labels to their products.

[crash]

Prop 65 is not funny. My company got caught up in it and it cost us half a mil to get through it. My company builds water filters for drinking water. Prop 65 allows individual California residents (IE lawyers) to sue individuals and companies who sell products into California that have detectable levels of any substance they currently ban. The USEPA has used a lead level of 10 milligrams or parts per billion (PPB) for many years. Yes I repeat Billion. Recently California legislated language banning "any detectable level of lead". Yes zero. Testing procedures have improved now to detect less than 1 PPB. The lawyers jumped on it. If a filter producer used brass fittings to assemble a drinking water system you were sued. I didn't matter if the USEPA continues to use 10 PPB, California language said any detectable level. Well the lawyers got together with all those being sued and settled on 5 PPB. Just enough to catch all the manufacturers and fine each manufacturer hundreds of thousands of dollars payable to the lawyers themselves according to Prop 65. Prop 65 allowed the lawyers the ability to be the enforcement arm of the California lawmakers. So most everyone selling any product in California has added warning labels to their products.

Yep. We got notices to update our labels or face litigation. Everything needs to be labeled as potentially cancer causing and dangerous. If you walk around San Diego/California and look at all the entrances to the buildings you will notice, if you are looking for them, postings that say that the premises has products on site known to the state of California to cause cancer. EVERY SINGLE BUILDING. No matter when it was built. What they have done here is go so crazy with identifying ANYTHING that could ever possibly be harmful, no matter how unlikely, and forced people to post those warnings so that now one cannot tell if there is actually any danger anywhere because they claim there is danger everywhere! Stupid is as stupid does.

Seriously, when was the last time you felt the urge to take a giant bite of bearing grease? And if you did, would a warning saying that the product might give you cancer stop you? It's ridiculous.

[tanderson1]

I ended up taking a week off away from the car, stuff kept coming up, one night we had over a foot of snow fall over 2 hours and my family and i got stuck on a hill (on a highway) in the middle lane. There were 100+ other cars stuck along with us, even the snow plow that came to save us got stuck right beside us... fun night. My oldest son has been having some medical problems lately so we have had a variety of doctors appointments, Xrays, blood tests, etc. We have pretty good handle on everything now so life should be getting back to normal around here.

I didn't mention before but someone broke into my car the other day, took the garage door opener and used it to gain entry into my garage while my family and i were asleep. They stole all of my hunting gear and seemly random tools and parts from around the garage. The annoying part is not that they stole thousands of dollars worth of stuff but more that fact that ever time i go out there and try to find a part i get frustrated because i don't know if i misplaced it or if it was stolen. The latest one i noticed was a bucket i had filled with new AN fittings, it also had the little wire for calibrating the gauges in it along with the wires for controlling the gauge backlights..... Gone!. I ordered two new cables from SpeedHut, cost was about $26USD, but shipping was $44USD. So those two small cables just cost me $100 Cad... arg. So far i have counted up $4000 worth of missing tools and parts.


106813
KGTM was nice enough to send me his unused floor vents.

106819
I found this picture from an old post made by Shoeless, this is how he made a opening for those vents just under the AC unit. I plan to install them just like this. Should be fairly easy to drill holes on each side then make two straight cuts with the side grinder. I did think about making these openings above the AC unit but that wont be possible, space up there is at a premium.

106814
here are the cancer causing grommets installed. I love these grommets, they will seal very well and can be sized by cutting away the back half of the grommet. After i ordered these i saw a post where someone just took a PVC pipe and put it straight over and sealed around the pipe. Thats a great idea, if i had do do this again i would do it that way as it would provide more space, and after the dash is closed up it would remain accessible.

106815
I realized i have not had a picture of the whole car in a while, truthfully its less together now then it was a month ago... two steps forward, sometimes 5 steps back :-)

106816106817
My Alarm finally arrived, its a Viper 5706. It has remote start, alarm, vibration sensor, tilt sensor, window roll up module, 2 way remote, and it has a phone app with GPS tracking. I am installing this unit now because it has to wire into all of the core cars systems like ignition, door sensors, hood switches, windows, door locks. I have to find a home for this somewhere up under the dash, space under there is hard to find right now.

106818
I complained before that FF didn't supply the fog light wiring. I was wrong, they did supply it, it was in the packaging for the fog lights themselves. They come with a switch, fuses and a relay holder. I think i will just use some of the raw wire around the car, I will cut out the fuses, relay and switch.

For the headlights/brights and daytime running lights i did something a little different. I wired the headlights to be always on (along with the tail lights). This fits my countries laws for day time running lights. The headlight switch on the stalk now controls the fog lights when headlights are selected. Switching on the brights will turn off the fog lights and switch the headlights to brights. This also helps me remove one more switch from the dash.

[KGTM]

So Sorry to hear about your loss, I have lots of extra aluminum panels so if you lost any of then let me know, have few brake parts also, all new.

Mostafa

[tanderson1]

Thanks for the offer KGTM. brakes were installed and working so i am good there and i went through each piece of aluminum, it seems i have them all.

I just received my SpeedHut order today. I got the gauge dimmer and my programming cable. Followed by disappointment!!! I hooked up all the gauge back-lights for the first time and instant surprise when i powered them on and the back-light colors were different. The gauges that came from FF have a blue back-light while the KPH gauge that i ordered from SpeedHut has a white back-light. I checked SpeedHut and white was the only option. The gauge is a perfect match other then that.

So my choices are,

Open up the old gauge with a dremel, figure out how the back-light comes out and then cut open the new one to transplant the back-light. (not a fan of this one)
Spend $280 to buy a new tach that looks exactly like the one i have but has a white back-light. (so all 4" gauges look the same and the 2" gauges look the same). They have a model with shift led's on it... i do like that.
Go all out and buy the new tach, and 3 new white gauges for Volts. Air fuel, Fuel PSI, mount those in the dash and put the 3 other blue gauges in gauge pods up the A piller.
Do nothing for now, but leave some extra wires with weather proof connectors on both ends under the dash, fed through to the engine bay, these could be used later when i figure out what to do.


honestly i am leaning toward option 4... this seems like a problem i can put off for a while.

[beeman]

Here's the one I ended up buying based on good reviews, but I haven't installed it yet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3NCMXN

So the problem with a system like this is that I'm going to use it as a dedicated rear view mirror, but the rear cameras are wide angle so you can't really see what kind of traffic is coming up behind you.

Does anyone know of a waterproof hi-res narrow angle camera to toggle with the backup camera?

Well, I just ordered a different rear view system that has the forward facing camera hanging below the unit, so it will look under the front windshield roll hoop. It also rotates if you want cockpit video. Reviews look good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MLHXNSK (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MLHXNSK/?ascsubtag=pf5iqni6lqk4fj8onnmsFH6WmplFDFHj&tag=dealnewscom&camp=1789&creative=9325&m=A3MPE9FW400IZQ)

Big coupon code today, $58 off, I only paid $88!

https://www.dealnews.com/Chicom-1080-p-350-deg-Rotation-Mirror-Dash-Camera-for-88-free-shipping/18004218.html

[tanderson1]

Well, I just ordered a different rear view system that has the forward facing camera hanging below the unit, so it will look under the front windshield roll hoop. It also rotates if you want cockpit video. Reviews look good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MLHXNSK (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MLHXNSK/?ascsubtag=pf5iqni6lqk4fj8onnmsFH6WmplFDFHj&tag=dealnewscom&camp=1789&creative=9325&m=A3MPE9FW400IZQ)

Big coupon code today, $58 off, I only paid $88!

https://www.dealnews.com/Chicom-1080-p-350-deg-Rotation-Mirror-Dash-Camera-for-88-free-shipping/18004218.html

let me know how it works out, amazon.com wont ship that unit to Canada, but i do travel to the USA for work often so i could have it shipped to a hotel.

[narkosys]

let me know how it works out, amazon.com wont ship that unit to Canada, but i do travel to the USA for work often so i could have it shipped to a hotel.

You should look into using a parcel receiving place just across the border. I use these guys (https://shipittous.com/) but I am sure that there are some closer to you.

[tanderson1]

Things finished today


Viper alarm with car starter is 100& wired in (No small Feet, this took most of the day). I also found a place to mount it.
AC Compressor wiring is 100% complete, wired into factory ECU.
AC Air unit is 100% complete
Heater Bypass is installed and wired in
Ign switch is 100% wired in.
All relays are 80% wired in. (Fuses are all installed, Diodes are installed,
Master fuse is installed and 30 amp self resetting fuses are installed for the Engine harness/Painless harness/AC unit/Fuel pump
Hazard lights wiring is complete (diodes installed)
Fog light wiring is complete.


if i can find time tomorrow i will

Wire the rear lights
Wire the Front lights
Wire the horn
Wire the wiper spray pump
Wire the column switches
Extend the wires for the gauges so they fit better.

[jamesfr58]

Tanderson1,

I have a full gauge set for the GTM from FFR that I did not use if it would help you out let me know.

[tanderson1]

Tanderson1,

I have a full gauge set for the GTM from FFR that I did not use if it would help you out let me know.

I assume all of the gauges from FFR have the same light blue backlight, i need a set with white backlights. I don't suppose yours have a clear white backlight?

[jamesfr58]

You might be right, I will try to check them today and let you know.

[tanderson1]

107115

I finished the majority of the wiring today, i made some changes to my diagram.


The reverse relay now triggers with a ground (this uses less wire from the front to the back)
I changed the parking light wiring. The old wiring would only light up the low beams on the front signal lights. There was nothing illuminated on the rear of the vehicle. I'm pretty sure that the law here is that the tail lights need to also light up. I checked all of my factory vehicles, they all light the brakes and the front signals. This needs one more diode, it will also light the side marker lights and the license plate.


Horn is now complete
Wiper fluid motor is now wired.
all front lights and back lights are wired up to the front and rear of the vehicle. I will do the rest once the body is on and i know where the lights end up
I removed all of the unneeded pins from the column harness

I made a new todo list before mounting the body.... somehow the list got longer, but it is more specific. Here is what i have now.

Wrap Headers
Truck Switch (for alarm), I bought it, need to run the wires for it.
Hood Switch (for alarm), I bought it, need to run the wires for it.
AC illumination wire needs to run to cluster (then i need to find a way to wire it into the dimmer for the existing gauges)
Door Switches (for alarm/foot well lights) I think i will need yet another 5 pole relay for this. (Put the old licence plate lights into each foot well)
Side Marker lights (I have the relays all working, just need wires that go to all 4 corners)
Run reverse light wire to stereo (i have the wires hanging, need loom and to feed it through the grommets)
Assemble and mount cold air intake (ff unit)
Cut floor vent holes in aluminium and rivet the vents on
install the orifice tube in the AC line.... I thought i did this but i found the tube in a box
Extend all the gauge sensor wires so they follow the rest of the loom under the dash.
Extend the wiper motor wires over to the motor.
Finish column wires
Put welding blanket into the tunnel
Get 3M double stick tape to attach the alarm vibration module.
Create wire loom to go into each door (locks/mirrors/windows/speakers/poppers)
Make a bracket to mount the kooks exhaust to the G96 trans
Fix coolant leak (this just started, coming from where the tube connects to the flex line)
Drill the top aluminum sheet (on the dash). cleco it in place for now.
Safety wire the rear axle bolts again.
Rivet on the driver side tunnel aluminum
Install the drivers side gas tank
Install the fuel tank roll over valves
Install the Aeromotive fuel pump controller
Wire the electric column extend wires into the switch (needs a fuse)
Secure the heater bypass valve (need to make a bracket to hold it steady)
put some vacuum line to the heater bypass from the vacuum pump
I need a cigarette lighter power plug somewhere... maybe install the seats to see where there is room.
I bought an amp wiring kit to go behind the passenger seat, need to put in some grommets and get it run though the tunnel


Once thats done i might let some feature creep back in.

Door Poppers, there are lots of extra channels on the alarm, Seems i could use 2 to pop the driver/passenger doors
Rear camera (i ran the power wire already, but need some kind of signal wire, HDMI or RCA)
Line lock (not sure why i want this, spinning R888's would most likely kill the trans quickly)

[beeman]

Make a bracket to mount the kooks exhaust to the G96 trans

I'm curious how you are planning on doing this, I need to do this as well.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I'm curious how you are planning on doing this, I need to do this as well.

If it's a G96-50, I have a brackets designed to mount both sides of the muffler stands.....similar to the G50 bracket but for the G96-50 bolt pattern....one bracket for the LH side and one for the RH side...similar to these:

http://vraptorspeedworks.com/g50-to-kooks-mounting-bracket/

[beeman]

If it's a G96-50, I have a brackets designed to mount both sides of the muffler stands.....similar to the G50 bracket but for the G96-50 bolt pattern....one bracket for the LH side and one for the RH side...similar to these:

http://vraptorspeedworks.com/g50-to-kooks-mounting-bracket/

Perfect, I'll contact you. Thanks!

EDIT: Communicated with Shane, I have a g96.01, his bracket is specific to the g96.50 :(

[tanderson1]

I also have a G96.01

I made a few cardboard templates, none that i was really happy with so far. I think it should be possible to create a similar bracket to what Shane showed however there are less bolt holes to use then the G50.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Can one of you guys send me or post a pic of the bolt pattern at the rear of the trans (that holds the rear case of the trans to the front case where we normally mount these brackets) for both the LH side and RH side? Maybe the bolt pattern is the same as a G96-50? I have never had a G96-01 here in person to look at, so maybe I'm wrong in that the bolt pattern is different?

[beeman]

I could probably run out there this evening if tanderson1 can't get to it, make some measurements between the bolts as well.

[SteveE]

I assume all of the gauges from FFR have the same light blue backlight, i need a set with white backlights. I don't suppose yours have a clear white backlight?

had the same issue when i ordered some additional gauges from Speedhut, I recall that they said they send about a 50/50 mix to F5. The individual at Speedhut that I talked to said that it was easy to change out the color, might want to give them a call.

Steve

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I could probably run out there this evening if tanderson1 can't get to it, make some measurements between the bolts as well.

I just added this to my website. If you're mounting bosses don't look like this, then these won't work for you.....

http://vraptorspeedworks.com/g96-50-to-kooks-mounting-brackets/

[beeman]

Yeah this one doesn't look anything like that..
107295

107296

[jamesfr58]

I am not using the Kooks exhaust, but my G96 looks just like the one Beeman posted pictures of and there are no ears as indicated in the picture Shane posted to mount the brackets to on the transmission.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yeah....that is indeed a whole different animal there....

[tanderson1]

Yeah....that is indeed a whole different animal there....

Yup. Not a lot of mounting options.

Those bolts are pretty far back and there is only one place on the other side to anchor too.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

If it were me, I'd most likely drill and tap that big, flat aluminum flange on the trans right in front of the rear mount and use that as a platform to bolt some sort of bracket to for the exhaust....

[KGTM]

[QUOTE=tanderson1;367267]107115

I finished the majority of the wiring today, i made some changes to my diagram.

BTW, general rule for driving relays in cars is to drive them low (GND) and not high(12v).

Mostafa

[tanderson1]

i finished the majority of the wiring today, i made some changes to my diagram.

Btw, general rule for driving relays in cars is to drive them low (gnd) and not high(12v).

Mostafa

i used the painless harness, it outputs +12. So to prevent too much surgery i stuck with it.

Family and i went camping this weekend, came home because it was raining and snowing the whole time. So figured i would spend an hour out in the garage and a few hours running around town shopping.

I bought more wire to complete the power mirror wiring and power window wiring. This wire will also be used for door locks and door poppers.
107655

I went to the junk yard and picked up for wiring harness for the power mirrors. Total cost was $8 with a switch. The switch i bought new has power fold (so it has a silk screen that says power fold)
107656
107657

I bought a small amp wiring kit. I plan to put a small amp behind the passenger seat.
107658

Amp kit came with RCA cables that were way to long, so i bought shorter cables. I also received the new relay box (also in the photo)
107659

These are the two different switches
107660

Wired up to the mirrors on the bench, turns out they are wired differently. The unit with power fold has the motor polarity opposite to the one without power fold. It also turns out that my old diagram had the left and right mirrors backwards.
107661

Here are the new wiring diagrams with the correct right/left mirror and positive to the right side of the motor (so left is left, right is right, etc.)
107663107664


The silk screen at the bottom of the mirror switch would bug me so i sanded it off with a sugar cube. Sugar cubes work great for removing silk screen from plastic. Now i wont have to use the junk yard unit, I will use the new unit instead.
107662

[jamesfr58]

I see you are using a blue oval mirror switch (controller), I had not gotten this far with the mirrors yet but you post will sure assist me in wiring my mirrors using the same switch. Thanks for the post and hopefully saving me some time in figuring it all out.

[tanderson1]

So I called FF to see if i could get a new windshield to replace the one that broke when a gust of wind separated it from the body and blew it across my yard....

Each windshield costs $250 USD... Reasonable enough. I asked FF to quote me the price for 2 shipped to my house (in Canada)

2 windshields international Priority shipped to my door: $4,975.36 CAD
2 windshields international Economy shipped to my door: $4,097.78 CAD
2 windshields shipped to Montana (so i would have to drive for 6 hours to go get them) $1,601.87 CAD, + storage fee at a border crossing receiver + duty at the border ($34 or so)

so about $800 + duty a windshield if I order 2. (still the most expensive piece of glass i will have ever bought in my life.)

So... anyone in Alberta want an extra windshield, this gets cheaper if i go and pick up a few, then we can split the shipping costs. The 6 hour drive will be on me.

[beeman]

Insane. When I announced that I wouldn't be using my windshield, a forum member from a few states over jumped on the chance to drive about 8 hours to buy mine. I didn't charge him much, and I think the behind the scenes tour of Lingenfelter I arranged for him and his wife took the sting out of the trip.

[crash]

If you are going to do 5 or more it might make it worth while for a local window maker to make you those. Around here they don't really want to do one at a time and it is expensive, although sometimes when restoring an old car that is the only way it can be done, but if you are doing a few at a time they usually get down into the "reasonable" price range. At least it would be reasonable compared to $5000 for a windshield. Might want to check around where you are at. Talk to restoration shops near you and find out who they use.

[Edgeman]

Have them Quote your shipping with USPS. Just a thought, most of the time its way cheaper.

[tanderson1]

Hey Edgeman, i was wondering if you still hung around here.

I wanted to ask you what you did for side markers and day time running lights to comply with Alberta Laws?

Do you remember what turned on the running lights (Headlight lows and highs?)?
Did the side markers only come on with the headlights or also the parking lights?
What lights did you use for the side markers?

[Edgeman]

For Side marker lights I used Aston Martin Vantage lights. I was using the Infinity wiring system (old ISIS system) and they programed the daytime running and park lights into the system.
https://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/body-fitting-2.html

[tanderson1]

For Side marker lights I used Aston Martin Vantage lights. I was using the Infinity wiring system (old ISIS system) and they programed the daytime running and park lights into the system.
https://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/body-fitting-2.html

I had lost the link to your website but i did remember that i liked your solution.

I found these, they look right, seems the part is from a V8 Vantage. Price doesn't seem that horrible, adds up to 291.15 CAD for markers and bolts. I would still need to figure out how to get a wiring plgtail for each one.
https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/part-finder/astonmartin/vantage/oe/156/807/25137
https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/part-finder/astonmartin/vantage/oe/156/807/25141


As for an update on where I sit with everything else...

I priced out a vacuum pump, valves/gauges, r139, scale, etc. I think i am just going to buy everything i need to properly charge an AC system. While its not cheaper then paying someone to do it for just the GTM I do have 3 other vehicles without working AC. So i will save money on the whole and have some cool new tools and a new skill. I watched some YouTube videos, i'm an expert now :-)
All of the wiring runs are done (including door harness wires). Most of wires are terminated where they need to be, none of it has been tested yet though.
I bought 50 feet of header wrap, that was barely enough to wrap one header, going to need to buy a least another 50 feet.
My truck needed new brakes, not GTM related, but did take me away from the build for a few hours... i really only get a few hours a week for the GTM so really this cost me a week. This job is usually quick but in Canada everything rusts in place so it took 40 minutes to get each wheel off, 35 to get each rotor to brake free with my BFH, and another 20-30 minutes each to get the caliper bolts to brake loose. Fun
Weather here took a turn for the better so i pulled out the motorcycle, replaced the battery, tentioned the chain, etc, etc. Its ready to roll now.
Lower AC vents are cut in to the tunnel wall aluminum, they are riveted in, connected and finished.


I have photos of everything i will post later.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

108272108273

For one of the Canadian cars that we worked on, we installed running lights from an Audi R8. At the time, the lights themselves were quite pricey, but maybe they've come down by now since the car has been around a while. I have all of the mounting brackets already designed in CAD to mount these to the GTM body.

[tanderson1]

108272108273

For one of the Canadian cars that we worked on, we installed running lights from an Audi R8. At the time, the lights themselves were quite pricey, but maybe they've come down by now since the car has been around a while. I have all of the mounting brackets already designed in CAD to mount these to the GTM body.

I will try to find those online tonight and see what the cost difference is. They look good to. I could see buying those to be legal for the inspection then tinting them slightly once the inspector leaves :-)


In unrealated news, here is the list of items for filling my own AC system

The GTM needs to be charged with 1.8 lbs. (1 lb., 12 oz. (28 oz)) of R134a refrigerant


5x $15.99 = 79.95 https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/red-tek-aerosol-12a-refrigerant-can-6-oz-0146116p.html#srp
1x $19.99 = 19.99 https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/red-tek-dye-charge-4-oz-0146122p.html#srp
1x $19.99 = 19.99 https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/red-tek-oil-charge-aerosol-can-4-oz-0146119p.html#srp
1x $24.99 = 25.99 https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/red-tek-dry-12-a-c-dehydration-treatment-0146134p.html#srp
2x $2.99 = $5.98 https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/red-tek-air-conditioning-oil-analyzer-for-r12-0146125p.html#srp
=$151.9 (chemicals)

1x 15.99 = 15.99 https://www.amazon.ca/Atoplee-Refrigerant-Bottle-Opener-Adapter/dp/B01N0UWOHA/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/143-7019701-6337954?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N0UWOHA&pd_rd_r=d2edafa5-815b-11e9-9c4a-ff62a9822dac&pd_rd_w=jTuhr&pd_rd_wg=8Yb9T&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=7DJ48AF2TE1E8YAF90M9&psc=1&refRID=7DJ48AF2TE1E8YAF90M9
1x 85.99 = 85.99 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00K325MC6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00K325MC6&pd_rd_w=Tc9i8&pf_rd_p=4b7c8c1c-293f-4b1e-a49a-8787dff31bcb&pd_rd_wg=OFFqU&pf_rd_r=2AF9ZQWC5H5SZC7AWATT&pd_rd_r=8021b888-8149-11e9-99e8-156e930cac10
1x 23.98 = 23.98 https://www.amazon.ca/Conditioner-Flashlight-Protective-Fluorescent-Conditioning/dp/B07GB9N1TR/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3K63RV3Q0A508&keywords=ac+leak+detector&qid=1559049198&s=automotive&sprefix=ac+leak+de%2Cautomotive%2C175&sr=1-5
1x 99.99 = 99.99 https://www.amazon.ca/Kozyvacu-150Micron-Refrigerant-Recharging-Processing/dp/B01N6IOBWF/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=vacuum%2Bpump&qid=1559048941&s=automotive&sr=1-3-spons&th=1
=225.95 (tools)

Total $377.85 Canadian

This will give me everything I need to fill/test/find leaks. Also worth mentioning that R134a can be purchased in bulk in tanks that look like propane tanks. I plan to call around to see if I can buy a bulk tank so I have enough to fix all of my vehicles.

[Edgeman]

I just ordered them from the dealer in Calgary, I think it was $80 for light and pigtail. Then I just glued them in with panel bonding adhesive.

[tanderson1]

is that $80 per marker from audi with the pigtail? so total cost around $320 or so?

[Edgeman]

Yes $80 per light a little expensive . Aston martin dealer. I want to say 2012 or 2013 model.

[tanderson1]

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I have been slightly distracted lately. I bought 2 San Francisco Rush arcade machiens cheap that need a little love. I picked them up so cheap that i just couldn't say no. I had to take a day off work and drive for 6 hours to pick them up.

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My garage is now so full its impossible to move around the car, so i need to finish repairing these machines before getting back to the car.

They both mostly function, heres a list of what i need to do.

Both monitors have Horizontal size controls that dont work.
One monitor is very dim, (bad flyback most likely)
One force feed back wheel wont calibrate and when playing has no force
One force feed back wheel only pushes to the right, no feedback to the left.
The wooden cabinet under each chair needs to be rebuilt (broken wood)
The rear covers need to be remade
One HDD works sometimes
The top light on one unit does not work.
The view 2 button doesnt not work on one unit
The lights behind most buttons dont work.
These are the first version of the cabinet that does not come apart, i need it to break down into at least 2 pieces to fit into my basement
The owner didnt have any of the keys so i had to drill all of the locks.


even with all of that i think i should be able to repair all of those problems in one day.... This will be my weekend project.

Once they are all fixed i will bring them down to by basement freeing up my garage space again!