New FFR Mk 4 builder

[Wjhutchings]

Hello everyone. My name is Walt and I live north of Tucson, AZ. I'm really just getting started on my build. I purchased the base kit and am adding new additional parts from FFR, Levy Racing, Breeze, etc. This car will have the 408 ci engine and 5 link system from Levy Racing, TKO600, power steering and Wilwood brakes.

So far I've made a new PS F panel (to get rid of the extra hole I don't need), and a thicker firewall (.090). While I wait for some aluminum panels to be powder coated I started mocking up the Wilwood pedal box and this is where I have my first question.

The clutch pedal will hit the 3/4 inch square tube if the clutch pedal has as much travel as I expect. So, either I've done something wrong, or the pedal won't travel all the way to the floor, or the 3/4 inch tube has to be cut and then supported as I noticed in a picture from edwardb's build (http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1877.jpg).

Anyone else have this issue?

[David Hodgkins]

Sorry, this was in moderation for a bit. Bump...

:)

[edwardb]

The clutch pedal will hit the 3/4 inch square tube if the clutch pedal has as much travel as I expect. So, either I've done something wrong, or the pedal won't travel all the way to the floor, or the 3/4 inch tube has to be cut and then supported as I noticed in a picture from edwardb's build (http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1877.jpg). Anyone else have this issue?

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your build. Should be a great combination. That's my pic, so I can comment, right? Yes, this is a common problem. It's been talked about a lot on this forum and FFCars. It goes back to Wilwood redesigning their pedal arms several years ago because an earlier version was breaking. Pretty much you have two choices: Clearance the frame or clearance the pedal arm. I chose the frame and feel pretty strongly this is the right choice. But others are equally convinced it's OK to clearance the pedal arm a bit. You will need to decide what works best for you. One solution, if you weld, is to do a small angle cut in the frame and weld a piece back in. That's a nice solution if you have the tools and ability.

Continued good luck with your build!

[rmcmicki]

X2 what Edward said. I too cut the frame. I reinforced it which you can see in these pictures on this page.
Good luck with your build!
Rob

http://rmcmicki.wordpress.com/2013/11/11/long-weekend-build-marathon/

[Wjhutchings]

Thanks all for your responses. I've been reading this forum for about nine months, but somehow missed the previous discussion on this issue. Cutting and welding would be my first choice, but I don't have access to welding equipment. I can be satisfied with the type of repair both of you provided. So many opportunities to continue learning!

Walt

[68GT500MAN]

Welcome and congratulations on starting your build.
Doug

[pcww]

Hi,
I am by no means an expert and have one one thousandth of the knowledge Edward has. I just got out the carbide grinding bit on my air tool and made a crescent chop on the edge only of the pedal. About thumb size. Works like a champ. Since I only ground the edge I am not worried about the integrity of the pedal. Having said that, if it is a choice between what I recommend and what Edward recommends , go with Edward. He is the gold standard on this forum and FFCars for the current builds. Henry

[edwardb]

Hi, I am by no means an expert and have one one thousandth of the knowledge Edward has. I just got out the carbide grinding bit on my air tool and made a crescent chop on the edge only of the pedal. About thumb size. Works like a champ. Since I only ground the edge I am not worried about the integrity of the pedal. Having said that, if it is a choice between what I recommend and what Edward recommends, go with Edward. He is the gold standard on this forum and FFCars for the current builds. Henry

I appreciate the compliment and vote of confidence. But in the spirit of full disclosure, I'm not a mechanical engineer. Just an IT guy with an opinion. (That should scare you.) But for me it's a matter of logic. Take material off a pedal arm that was beefed up because there were some instances where they broke? Or create clearance in the thin wall frame tube that is part of the birdcage for hanging aluminum, etc.? As long as it's done properly, whatever strength is lost can be replaced. Not unlike the mod Whitby uses to create clearance from the same exact tube for their vacuum power brake install. That's why I recommend the frame mod over trimming the pedal arm.

Having said that, I've seen several write-ups where guys are qualified to calculate the failure mode of the clutch pedal, and they're convinced it's OK to trim. So, in the end, as I said in my first post, becomes a choice of which approach you're personally comfortable with.

BTW, many gold standard builds on here. Glad to be considered one of them. :cool:

[aspbite]

Thanks all for your responses. I've been reading this forum for about nine months, but somehow missed the previous discussion on this issue. Cutting and welding would be my first choice, but I don't have access to welding equipment. I can be satisfied with the type of repair both of you provided. So many opportunities to continue learning!

Walt


The Levy 5 link requires welding as well as some frame cutting FYI.

[CraigS]

FFR are you seeing this? It's been a problem "for several years" and it still is???? FIX IT please.

[Davidbr_48]

I completed my Mk IV about a year ago and did not have to make any mods to allow the clutch pedal to clear the frame. My Roadster was built from a complete kit with the Wilwood pedal box - I'm wondering if I somehow messed up? Here's a picture of the pedals in the "as is" frame. 37599

[emac]

Congrats on the new build! Enjoy. I just notched my clutch pedal.

David press your clutch and look up higher on the pedal arm and see if it contacts the frame brace keeping it from going all the way to the floor. Shoot a pic of that.

[DaleG]

I also was unaware of this issue. Just went out and checked mine. Found a small interference mark (<1/32" deep) at the end of the stroke where the pedal arm barely contacts the rail, but the pedal does "go to the floor", so no issue here. The "red" arrow just points to a paint mark.

37600

[emac]

I also was unaware of this issue. Just went out and checked mine. Found a small interference mark (<1/32" deep) at the end of the stroke where the pedal arm barely contacts when rail, but the pedal does "go to the floor", so no issue here. The "red" arrow just points to a paint mark.



37600

Yep, similar to the way mine looked. I just took a little bit off of the pedal and left the frame intact. Seemed like the easier route for me.

[Avalanche325]

I did the same as edwardb. It is a great no weld solution. I left one side of the 3/4 tube in tact. Here is a picture of the parts. Two inserts and the external brace.

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t474/Avalanche325/DSCN1774.jpg (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Avalanche325/media/DSCN1774.jpg.html)

http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t474/Avalanche325/DSCN1773.jpg (http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/Avalanche325/media/DSCN1773.jpg.html)

Welcome. It sounds like you are in for a fun build.