R.Spec's Gt35r Ej25 Supercar Killer

[R.Spec]

Well my 818s finally got here! Ordered it back in May and it was completed August 20th. But I did not have the funds ready for it, so I gave that kit away. My new completion date became November 22nd. Got that paid for and it arrived here at my shop on January 1st! Kinda an epic new years :D.

Anyhow plans for the car:

Ej25 Block and Heads
Forged Mahle 8.5:1 CR 2618 Alloy Pistons
Forged Manley H Tuff Rods
BC Titanium Springs and Retainers
Garrett Gt35R with a tial 0.63 Hotside so that it doesn't hit super hard and break the tires that loose
Fujitsubo Equal Length Exhaust Header
Tri-Tip Steak Turboback Custom Exhaust ( lol ;))
Stock wrx 5 Speed tranny for now
Stock 02-03 Ecu running Carberry with antilag tuned by Me
18x9.5 Rota Grid wheels in the back with hoosier r6's
17x8 Rota Grid wheels in the front with some other tire
Stoptech Big Brake Kit in the front
2 Pot Brakes in the rear
Momo Carbon Kevlar Acropolis seats with Takata Harnesses



Well the truck showed up and the driver was very friendly, cracking jokes and helping out constantly. We unloaded the 818 and put it in the shop next door on some jack stands. The only thing I noticed so far is that the fiberglass is super thin and cracked right where one of the vents are on the top drivers side of the humped back piece. (lol shoulda just taken a picture) Also the vinyl dash had rips and holes in it :mad:

Anyways I unboxed most all the parts, started putting the suspension together. Could barely slide the coil over sleeve over one strut, it ripped off all the paint and I was super mad. I felt like the machining tolerance was off. Then I took inventory of most everything. I feel like I am missing like all of the brake stuff but it said it was in the kit. All i got was the proportioning valve and the lines. AND HOLY CRAP THERE IS A LOT OF ALUMINUM. Anyone have a rivet gun recommendation? How long is the aluminum riveting part going to take me?

Here are some pictures.

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37162

[Tamra]

On the inventory, did you go box by box and sheet by sheet? Some things are in multiple boxes. We checked line item by line item, and we were only missing one item. FFR shipped it to us asap. They are also pretty good about damaged parts if you contact them.

The brake lines are in a cardboard tube, if that helps.

We got the Harbor Freight air rivet gun and it has worked great for us. We did need a manual one (smaller) for some areas. It wasn't special either, just whatever was on the shelf at Home Depot.

Congrats on picking up your kit!

[R.Spec]

On the inventory, did you go box by box and sheet by sheet? Some things are in multiple boxes. We checked line item by line item, and we were only missing one item. FFR shipped it to us asap. They are also pretty good about damaged parts if you contact them.

The brake lines are in a cardboard tube, if that helps.

We got the Harbor Freight air rivet gun and it has worked great for us. We did need a manual one (smaller) for some areas. It wasn't special either, just whatever was on the shelf at Home Depot.

Congrats on picking up your kit!

I opened up all the boxes out of excitement. But tried not to move anything and I went box by box. Missing a lot it seems like. i will have to go back and check.

[metalmaker12]

Lol, get a rivet gun dude!

[Canadian818]

I taped the corresponding intentory sheets on the outsides of the boxes, and then crossed off items as I went. Then as I progressed I combined boxes and just transferred the sheets. Helped me keep track. Congrats on the delivery!

[Hindsight]

We got the Harbor Freight air rivet gun and it has worked great for us. We did need a manual one (smaller) for some areas. It wasn't special either, just whatever was on the shelf at Home Depot.

Ditto on all that. You will want both air and manual (manual for the tight spots, air for everything else). Air does a nicer job on the rivets too.

Buy a package of 10x 1/8" drill bits; they should be short and of high speed steel. Dip the tip of the bit into some oil before each hole. You'll need a regular drill, and an angle drill or angle drill adapter for some tight spots.

[R.Spec]

Ditto on all that. You will want both air and manual (manual for the tight spots, air for everything else). Air does a nicer job on the rivets too.

Buy a package of 10x 1/8" drill bits; they should be short and of high speed steel. Dip the tip of the bit into some oil before each hole. You'll need a regular drill, and an angle drill or angle drill adapter for some tight spots.

Went to harbor freight and got a manual rivet gun cause that is all they had. Couldn't find air. Or maybe i was blind. Either way all the air is in my other shop :( I also got a little portable blower heater :D. I get cold easy. I need to go get the 1/8" and 3/16" drill bits of high quality. How prevalent is it that I would get the angle drill?

[Frank818]

garrett gt35r with a tial 0.63 hotside so that it doesn't hit super hard and break the tires that loose.




gt3582r?

[longislandwrx]

nope no machining issue, shocks are tight. put shock in the freezer for 20, and sleeve in oven at 350 for a 5 minutes and they slide right on. use a glove and work quickly.

I exclusively used a bootleg hand riveter and it was not bad at all.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6555-Rivet-40-pc-Rivets/dp/B000NPT74C/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420471531&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=tectron+rivet

it short cut a few rivets but not bad, I think that has more to do with the rivet quality than the rivet gun.

[Pearldrummer7]

Woohoo! Exciting indeed. I guess you're not where it's THAT snowy (we definitely had snow at New Years.

Get a good rivet gun, make sure you read through all the helpful "don't do this", "do this instead", and "why the hell doesn't this fit/work?" threads on here. Lots of really good stuff.

Best of luck.

[wleehendrick]

I exclusively used a bootleg hand riveter and it was not bad at all.

Agreed... don't feel you have to buy a power riveter. I used a similar Stanley hand riveter (you'll want a manual one anyway to get into tight spaces). It does take a strong squeeze for the 3/16" rivets, but the 1/8" ones are pretty easy for me. Give it a try by hand unless you really like collecting tools. Anyway, congrats on delivery and good luck with the build...

[Hindsight]

How prevalent is it that I would get the angle drill?

Go without until you need it. You'll know.

[Frank818]

I waited for the angle drill and bought it on sale when it came up cuz I knew I needed it for one thing. Turned out I used it at least 15 times now, in a few weeks. And even though it's the small Dewalt one, it's still too big for a few things I wanted to do. :) But at the cheap price it was well spent.

I agree you should wait until you need it, cuz you may never need it, it's not like a rivet tool that you will need unless you rivet nothing.

[FFRSpec72]

nope no machining issue, shocks are tight. put shock in the freezer for 20, and sleeve in oven at 350 for a 5 minutes and they slide right on. use a glove and work quickly.

I exclusively used a bootleg hand riveter and it was not bad at all.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6555-Rivet-40-pc-Rivets/dp/B000NPT74C/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420471531&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=tectron+rivet

it short cut a few rivets but not bad, I think that has more to do with the rivet quality than the rivet gun.

It's a little rough on the hands in cold weather and tight spaces when using steel shank rivets but gets the job done

[R.Spec]

So this is a picture of everything that came in box 3. And this is the list of what I can't find. Mostly brake stuff.

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37301

[STiPWRD]

A 9.8 compression ratio on the pistons seems high for a turbo car. Are you planning on running low boost? BTW congrats on getting the kit

[R.Spec]

A 9.8 compression ratio on the pistons seems high for a turbo car. Are you planning on running low boost? BTW congrats on getting the kit

We usually build them around 8.3 - 8.5:1 ratio here at the shop. But if I go closed deck motor then I don't see any reason why a higher compression motor won't work. I had a 9.8:1 hybrid ej25/20 motor earlier and it ran great. Assuming I will light the absolute piss off these tires all the time with the 35r, I would like a fair amount of power prior to spool, I don't want peak to burn the tires off. I may just stick with like a 9.0:1 haven't decided yet.

Here are the cracked panels I have recieved and dash.
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[nkw8181]

My. 02 I got a rivnut/rivet gun through Grainger and it works great.

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/WESTWARD-Swivel-Head-Riveter-5TUR2

[AZPete]

Have you called Factory Five about your inventory questions and the nicks? Why tell us when FFR the place to go for those questions?

[R.Spec]

Have you called Factory Five about your inventory questions and the nicks? Why tell us when FFR the place to go for those questions?

I called them and Dan said email them with pictures and stuff. He was very helpful. I haven't got around to it yet though, been very busy tuning subarus here at work. Just thought I would share here.

[svanlare]

Congrats on the kit. I love the title of the super car-killer.

I had both missing parts and panel issues and FFR was great about sorting them out quickly without any hassles.

For rivets, I'm using the Harbor freight rivet gun and a hand tool for the tight locations. It is the same tight spaces that I've used the right angle drill. Picked up the same cheap Dewalt one that Frank mentioned at the local hardware store. It was much cheaper than the Dewalt impact drill that I bought :) That at least has been one of the most used tools on the project so far.

[Hindsight]

What shop do you work at?

[R.Spec]

What shop do you work at?

Horizontal Motorsports (http://horizontalmotorsports.com/) I am the engine management tuner, but I also have wrenching experience, and run the phones and scheduling.

[Hindsight]

Wow, Tualatin Sherwood Road. My old stomping grounds. I grew up out there. Got into the tuning business with a buddy in '97-'98 called Matrix Motorsports. We did engine swaps and custom turbo setups on VWs out of a gravel-floored storage facility off of Herman and 108th. I left the business before it got big and moved to the current Macadam location; Now it's called Matrix Integrated.

The internet makes for a small world! Boy, this brings back a lot of memories.... the golden years of my youth!!! Err, I think I'm feeling a mid-life crisis coming on....

Have you always been a Subaru fan or did you work with something else previously?

[R.Spec]

Wow, Tualatin Sherwood Road. My old stomping grounds. I grew up out there. Got into the tuning business with a buddy in '97-'98 called Matrix Motorsports. We did engine swaps and custom turbo setups on VWs out of a gravel-floored storage facility off of Herman and 108th. I left the business before it got big and moved to the current Macadam location; Now it's called Matrix Integrated.

The internet makes for a small world! Boy, this brings back a lot of memories.... the golden years of my youth!!! Err, I think I'm feeling a mid-life crisis coming on....

Have you always been a Subaru fan or did you work with something else previously?

Always Subarus. Not necessarily a fanboy...wait now that i think of it. My cor collection goes. '87 Loyale (sold) , '05 Impreza RS (traded), '03 WRX (sold) ,' 99 Impreza L (daily), '95 Impreza (sold), '2015 818 (project). I would love to get into tuning other cars, evos, hondas, diesel trucks etc. But I have tuned hundreds and hundreds of subarus. mostly stuff between 200-550whp.

hehehe :rolleyes: herman road. That is my stomping ground, my self proclaimed "mexico" tuning road.

[Hindsight]

Cool, you should do great on the build! Looking forward to watching it progress.

[Sgt.Gator]

When you get tired of hand riveting someone here pointed me to the Astro Pneumatic PR14 Air Riveter. I love it. I keep looking for stuff to rivet!

What kind of Dyno do you have at HM? I'm -almost- required to use a DynoJet for certification.

[R.Spec]

When you get tired of hand riveting someone here pointed me to the Astro Pneumatic PR14 Air Riveter. I love it. I keep looking for stuff to rivet!

What kind of Dyno do you have at HM? I'm -almost- required to use a DynoJet for certification.

We rent out PRE and English's Dyno a lot. I would like to get my own dynojet here in the future. But gotta put my funds toward the 818 first. I do a lot of road tuning as well.

Cleco pins, how important are they. And where can I get them? Would it be bad to just start riveting on the firewall like the book recommends?

[Tamra]

They make sure your panels stay lined up while you are riveting. The cleco's will make your life much easier, guaranteed.

[xxguitarist]

pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZQ6PY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/8" cleco (get 20-30): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZQ6R2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3/16" cleco (don't need 25): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZQ6Y0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[R.Spec]

They make sure your panels stay lined up while you are riveting. The cleco's will make your life much easier, guaranteed.

Do standard clamps and what not not work good enough? I would think you need two clamps, once you get the first rivet in then the only one clamp. Ehh screw it, I will get some clecos. More money gone. Haha :p

[Hindsight]

If you are going to put your panel in place ONCE, then drill one hole and immediately rivet it, you can get away without clecos. Otherwise, in addition to what Tamra said, they keep the hole alignment correct. If you don't use them, as you drill down the panels, slight shifting in the panel will cause the previous holes to get out of alignment. You'll then have a bunch of holes that don't line up and have to re-drill.

It's hard to put rivets in a perfect line with perfect spacing using the above one-shot way. There are other problems: You have to silicone the panel into place and quickly put all the rivets in before it hardens, do-overs are harder (when you realize that due to poor instructions, you didn't realize one panel had to go on before another and you already glued/riveted it in place), you have to paint before drilling, etc.

The most popular method seems to be to use a marker to mark the frame position on the panels, then mark holes on the panel using a ruler while the panel is your workbench. Drill holes in the panel on the bench, then transfer to the car. Using the panel holes, drill into the frame at each hole, and adding a cleco into each hole or every other. You can leave like that until all panels in the area are in place and you know you did it right, then one at a time or all at once you remove them then debur and paint if you want, then apply silicone and rivet into final place. This is what I did and it worked well. Least fun part of the build though.....

Standard clamps won't work for this. It's more about keeping the hole in the panel and the hole in the frame lined up EXACTLY. Clamps will still allow for misalignment especially when the frame isn't perfectly flat and you are having to slightly flex the metal.

These are what I got:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084QK1U6/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFL7QU6/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PEN67C/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item

Also, stop tracking money.

[AZPete]

X2 on Clecos needed. But, about 25 have served me well on two builds because when I need more I use the #8 self-tapping screws FFR used to hold the panels.

[nkw8181]

I got 100 1/8 clicos and ran out lol. But I put alot of the car together temporarily and then took back apart.

[longislandwrx]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZQ6SQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZQ6PY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

25 is enough if you are not mocking everything up at once.

50 lets you attack multiple panels at once.

I have 75 which is plenty, although one day I hope to build a Zodiac so i'll probably need more.

[Frank818]

If you are going to put your panel in place ONCE

When is that going to happen. :)

[Frank818]

I have 7 clecos (free left-overs from my mech) and was able to work out everything so far, including the under seat panel. 25 is certainly a no-headache number.

[theburner9]

With how easy the rivets are to drill out, I just popped one in every so often and drilled them out to remove and mark the panel, put them back on and drill the panel and frame at the same time. I couldn't be bothered to wait for the clecos to arrive. Also, I've done all my riveting by hand. The front firewall took a total of about 1.5 hours to drill, rivet and seal.

[R.Spec]

With how easy the rivets are to drill out, I just popped one in every so often and drilled them out to remove and mark the panel, put them back on and drill the panel and frame at the same time. I couldn't be bothered to wait for the clecos to arrive. Also, I've done all my riveting by hand. The front firewall took a total of about 1.5 hours to drill, rivet and seal.


Eee that makes me excited, I am thinking about painting the front firewall black. Should I paint it before I put the panels on or after?

[Hindsight]

People do both. Have to do a lot of masking if you do it after and harder to get as nice a finish and as good a coverage that way.

[RM1SepEx]

Powder coat and use black rivets from McMasterCarr

[AZPete]

You're right about it being easy to drill rivets out. Some guys have worked hard to use rivnuts on panels that might have to be removed later but I think drilling out a rivet is as easy as unscrewing a rivnut. What makes a panel hard to remove is the silicon sealant so I use a thin strip of rubber to seal panels I'd likely remove and sealant on all others, like the front firewall. It's fun to get started on something you can admire, isn't it?

[wleehendrick]

Eee that makes me excited, I am thinking about painting the front firewall black. Should I paint it before I put the panels on or after?

I used 3M rubberized undercoat on my firewall and a lot of other panels, it really deadens the resonance. The procedure I used was to drill and fit panels with cleckos, remove, prep and spray panel, then riveting in place is easy as all the holes line up well.

[Frank818]

Pete, which strip of rubber you use? I have some for doors and windows but the glue tends to get destroyed with time/heat so I was looking for something more durable.

[R.Spec]

Just removed all the firewall in the front. Now to set up a bench to drill every 3 inches. I need to get a ruler too or something. Is it bad that i get giddy anytime i even touch the car. ahaha.

[AZPete]

R.Spec some of us are anal about rivet spacing. I cut the flat elastic from a pair of jockey shorts (wash first) and then marked it every 2 inches. Clamp one end at the edge of the alum panel, stretch it to the other end of the panel, and mark the position of rivets evenly and proportionally spaced.

Frank, I bought 1/8 x 2 x 36" rubber strips (#1MVC3) from Grainger. I cut the width to what I need - usually 1/2" to 3/4" - and use it for hood and trunk seals, too.

[flynntuna]

Grassroots magazine and Wayne did some good videos on the 818, in one Wayne describes using a builders square, drilling holes 3" on one side and 2" down the other. Then marking the holes and drilling the holes on a piece of styrofoam.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/project-cars/2013-factory-five-818/

[R.Spec]

messing in photoshop. Looking to go for a street gt style.

http://i.imgur.com/2SGZLy1l.jpg

[Scargo]

3M (again) makes a black, neoprene tape with an aggressive adhesive. It's about 1/8" thick and come in various widths. I use it for lots of things.

[R.Spec]

Firewall done... Messed up some rivet spacing. And have some extra holes provided by factory five and myself. ahaha Oh well. Still worked out good. I siliconed on both side of the panels in the cracks. Seemed to work alright.


http://i.imgur.com/a3Jk9f3l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/570PCWil.jpg

[Hindsight]

Don't stress it.... I'd say 95% of us have extra holes in the sheet metal and frame.... usually due to the temp sheet metal screws from the factory and due to drilling out areas that you then find you can't access. No one but you will notice. Nice progress and keep it up.

[R.Spec]

Playing around a bit more. I think this color works well with the gt style headlights.

http://i.imgur.com/PFSl7XAl.jpg

[AZPete]

I have no extra holes!!
I have quite a few weight-saving voids, however.

[R.Spec]

Got a little further, and even picked up some stoptech st-40 brakes. Need a little reconditioning but they should stop fairly quick! :eek:

http://i.imgur.com/9aJTf3Il.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OHfp35Cl.jpg

Did the control arms with this stuff!

http://i.imgur.com/wkWLEQpl.jpg

What did you guys do here. Is it not supposed to sit perfectly flush? Also was the 40mm bolt supposed to go closer to the ball joint or further away? The manual said it was reversed in the picture but it didn't make sense to put the longer bolt closer to the ball joint.

http://i.imgur.com/mmusaIBl.jpg

My cotter pin hole did not line up, should i just pull the ifs arm off and try to rotate the ball joint bolt?

http://i.imgur.com/bDQr2WPl.jpg

What have people done about this lower control arm mount hitting the firewall? Chop it?

http://i.imgur.com/bT7uxOkl.jpg

[Kurk818]

Last post photos dont show...

[metalmaker12]

Photos a no go

[dougkirkbride]

http://i.imgur.com/wkWLEQpl.jpg

What did you guys do here. Is it not supposed to sit perfectly flush? Also was the 40mm bolt supposed to go closer to the ball joint or further away? The manual said it was reversed in the picture but it didn't make sense to put the longer bolt closer to the ball joint.

mine didnt sit flush either, once you tighten down, it will kindof bend down into place. i just made sure the orientation ws correct.
http://i.imgur.com/mmusaIBl.jpg

My cotter pin hole did not line up, should i just pull the ifs arm off and try to rotate the ball joint bolt? yes, just loosen and turn.

http://i.imgur.com/bDQr2WPl.jpg

What have people done about this lower control arm mount hitting the firewall? Chop it?

http://i.imgur.com/bT7uxOkl.jpg[/QUOTE]

yes I cut the end of the bolt off just at the nut i also had to slot my mounting holes due to it being crooked.

[Hindsight]

I used a bench grinder to grind the end of that bolt down.

[AZPete]

I cut a 1.5" hole in the firewall which also enables me to torque the nut once it's at ride height.

[R.Spec]

Finished front suspension. As well as mounting steering rack. Taking apart the axles to hold the wheel bearings in place. And I mounted the rear sti aluminum lateral links, and some control arms.

http://i.imgur.com/rnoqPWDl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yPrunQ4l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PFT1OzCl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8yAyvBel.jpg

[Hindsight]

Nice, you are almost caught up to me. Just haven't had time lately. Keep up the great progress!

[R.Spec]

What is everyone using for a brake line bender? I am new at this. :D

Also is it reasonable to assume I could hook up rear suspension and get the car on the ground on wheels?

[AZPete]

I think the best tip for brake lines is to make a template of each line first with coat hanger wire. Just bend the wire to fit and make sure you can get the bent piece into where you want it, then copy the bent wire with brake tubing. There are lots of line benders you can buy but I just bolted 2 sockets to a board and bent the brake tubing around them. You'll also be able to bend by hand if you are careful to avoid kinks - try first on some scrap lines.

[Hindsight]

Also is it reasonable to assume I could hook up rear suspension and get the car on the ground on wheels?

Sure but you might find it's too low to work on comfortably that way. I have mine as high as it can go to make it easier to access everything.

[TouchStone]

You're right about it being easy to drill rivets out. Some guys have worked hard to use rivnuts on panels that might have to be removed later but I think drilling out a rivet is as easy as unscrewing a rivnut.

I worry about the back half of the rivet rattling around inside the frame when your driving. But I'm not sure if that's a legitimate concern or not.

[R.Spec]

I worry about the back half of the rivet rattling around inside the frame when your driving. But I'm not sure if that's a legitimate concern or not.

I drilled out a lot don't worry. So I will be a good test subject for that ;). I hope its not too big of a concern. I might have to use some sort of a device to get them out.

[R.Spec]

Update my build list. Hopefully going to get the steering column in as well as pedals and rear suspension soon. I want to get this thing on the ground and rolling.

[rcotner]

Hey, I live in Beaverton (Bethany). I would love to see your build if you are willing. I am in the midst of a 33 hotrod and am looking to my next project. I am intrigued by the 818. You are of course welcome see my car in progress if you are interested. Good luck and have fun!!!

[R.Spec]

Fuel tank came in! Does it look any different that you guys'?

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38457

[R.Spec]

Looks like they gave more room to the driver, and improved baffling inside. Made the whole tank slimmer. I would only assume it carries less fuel though. Not that I even care! :D

[Jaime]

Is there new aluminum to go along with it?

[TouchStone]

Fuel tank came in! Does it look any different that you guys'?

Looks different, can you post a pic of the back side of the tank?

[Frank818]

Maybe I missed something, but is that a new fuel tank made and sold by FFR?

[R.Spec]

Maybe I missed something, but is that a new fuel tank made and sold by FFR?
Yes it is!

Is there new aluminum to go along with it?
No there is not!

[svanlare]

For a brakeline bending I used the eastman tools. http://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bender-and-forming-pliers-kit.html I'm not attached to the brand, I'm sure there are similar tools elsewhere but these worked well. I also bought a coil of line and wish I had a better way to straighten it before I started putting all of my bends into it, but bending by hand got me close.

[Hindsight]

Eastwood sells a tubing straightener tool that looks like it works well but is priced about 8x too high.

[Scargo]

Probably you can straighten it like you can wire; by having a person on each end you slap it against a flat surface like the floor or a table. A long kitchen counter-top might be good. You pull it taught and slap simultaneously, rotate and repeat. I guess I will find out soon enough!

[R.Spec]

I can not get the freaking pedal box to work. None of the holes line up. What should i do. If i line up the master cylinder studs and the 3 bolts on the steering column frame then the other bolts don't line up.

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[Bob_n_Cincy]

I can not get the freaking pedal box to work. None of the holes line up. What should i do. If i line up the master cylinder studs and the 3 bolts on the steering column frame then the other bolts don't line up.

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Here is a couple pictures of my installed pedal box. This might help you.
I would mount the master cylinder bolts correctly and then redrill the top bracket to match the pedal assembly.
How far are things off?
Bob

39310

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[R.Spec]

I am just blown away by how far off this is.

39312 39313 39314

[Hindsight]

Measure pedal bracket holes and frame holes.... All Measurments that you think will detail what you have to work with. I will then measure mine and post it too. Then we can see if your frame or pedal cluster is the issue. Is your pedal cluster from a JDM? does it seem straight? What year and model donor? Take a pic of the pedal mount bracket bolted to frame without the cluster in the way.

[NBinSD]

Mine looked pretty similar. I put the four button heads in and left them a little loose, then put nuts on the clutch studs, then used some persuasion to line up the top three frame bolts.

[Tamra]

The button head screws called out in the manual are much smaller than the holes so they will fit through even though they are slightly offset. I would guess there are some differences between the Subaru years so they left the holes a little large to compensate. They snug up just fine.

[Hindsight]

Now that Tamra mentions that, I took another look at your pictures and I think she nailed it. I was having a hard time seeing what you were talking about in the pics because I didn't see anything that looked to be a problem so I assumed there was something I was missing. As she mentioned, those bolts are small and will fit in there (at the steering mount location). My pedal cluster didn't hit the bracket either.... it was about 1/4" away. Tightening the bolts down pulled it up tight with the frame bracket. I can't tell from the pics though, if the four bolt holes that hold the pedal cluster to the frame bracket are badly misaligned but if they are not, I'd say you don't have an issue here.

[R.Spec]

Got some progress!!!

39583

39587

39585

This can't be right. Doesn't the bolt look a little bent? I measured the spacers thought o make sure I had the right ones. Also the 1.5" spacer that goes above this for the brace is too big. I am just going to grind it down to get it to fit.
39588

[xxguitarist]

I think you're just seeing the spherical bearing in the end of the shock being angled.

[R.Spec]

I think you're just seeing the spherical bearing in the end of the shock being angled.
Look at the gap on the outer part of the right spacer, vs the inner.

[TouchStone]

This can't be right. Doesn't the bolt look a little bent? I measured the spacers thought o make sure I had the right ones. Also the 1.5" spacer that goes above this for the brace is too big. I am just going to grind it down to get it to fit.

The spacers look a little small to me. What did you measure the gap as versus the total length of spacers and shock?

I have the same issue with the above 1.5". I plan on doing the same thing, grind to fit.

[R.Spec]

The spacers look a little small to me. What did you measure the gap as versus the total length of spacers and shock?

I have the same issue with the above 1.5". I plan on doing the same thing, grind to fit.

I will have to measure today. The manual calls for a 0.43 and a 0.32 spacer. It fit better with two 0.375 spacers.

[TouchStone]

If the space is small enough (<~0.05in) I would probably just torque the bolt and see if the bracket flexes to fit. I dont think FFR welded thoes plates perfectly parallel.

[Scargo]

My take on it would be that it is an either/or sitchiashun of the brackets not being parallel and/or the spacer ends not being square. They are not the finest spacers in the world. Rough-cut and not de-burred.
You can get these from Jegs, Amazon, etc. in steel or aluminum for $5~$8 a pair.
39594
If the spacers are square I'd just tighten it till the ears squish down. No big deal.
Fun to have a roller, eh?

[R.Spec]

Got it all figured out. Now I am onto the throttle cable. Should i do the big hole little hole slot trick like most people?

F5 forgot to send the manual brake pushrod so that's on its way so I can get the brakes hooked up. Then I am going to run all the lines for that. The fuel system is after that. Then Coolant.

Also I through some 18x9.5" wheels on it for now. The wheels hit at one full lock. But they are 245/40 r18 tires. So I think if I get 255/30/r18 they might not hit as soon and I could get a little more steering wheel turn. maybe 1 1/4 lock, which should be enough. Has anyone notched the frame or aluminum in the front for clearance?

Enjoy some pics

http://i.imgur.com/WdmUmzt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/T15jtp4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/R7J4SE6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sRU4LIt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/opkT5or.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HCs3Rn0.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9eQiABC.jpg

[Scargo]

If you not familiar with the calculators and tire specs that are available:
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
http://www.ajdesigner.com/fl_tire/tire.php
http://www.alloywheels.com/Tyre_Calculator
http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-comparison/
Find the specific tire that you wish to use and see if it will work based on what you have tried.
Except for racing tires, most tires are made to a common standard.
Also, pay attention to what people have posted in the Wheel and Tire Thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10156-THE-Wheel-amp-Tire-Thread)!

I've also suggested elsewhere that you can do a cardboard or Luan silhouette of a wheel/tire combo and rotate it around, much like they do to see if caliper/wheel combos work.
I am very concerned by the amount of Heim joint thread that you have showing on the arms in the rear. Is that with a rough adjustment of the suspension?

[R.Spec]

Fixed images

[Hindsight]

Looking good. What offset are those wheels?

[R.Spec]

Looking good. What offset are those wheels?

I am gonna take a shot in the dark and say +38. Ill check when i get to work today. I just picked up a set of 17x7 wheels which i think I will throw on my daily. Which means I have my 17x8 enkei rpf1's that I can use on this. However. The wheel weight on the barrell of my rpf1 rubs on my stoptech brakes. :( sooo idk.

[R.Spec]

I am very concerned by the amount of Heim joint thread that you have showing on the arms in the rear. Is that with a rough adjustment of the suspension?

It seems as though that's how much I need to get a 0 or -1 camber amount. Anything more and it's ridiculously cambered. Why could this be? As far as the front heim joint, that is what I used to roughly adjust toe and camber. And I think I got it close. I was going to bring it to a professional race alignment and wheel balance place to dial it all in.

[Hindsight]

Thanks for the offset. I'm assuming those are Rota Grids. Some people like to be critical of Rota's but from all the racing success they have (and so many people running them on the street), I'm a fan. Good value, and they are one of the few manufacturers who make a good selection in the pattern/size/offset we need. Rotas are on my short list along with Enkei.

I have the a lot of thread showing on my heim joints as well. I think I posted about it in my build thread and someone mentioned it was the same for them.

[Scargo]

Those swedged tubes are cheap. I needed to go up an inch on mine. I got these Allstar Performance ALL57158 Steel Tube, 5/8" x 7/8" O.D., 7" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0CBRQY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) from Amazon for $10.17 each, Prime Member. Black, too!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Those swedged tubes are cheap. I needed to go up an inch on mine. I got these Allstar Performance ALL57158 Steel Tube, 5/8" x 7/8" O.D., 7" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0CBRQY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) from Amazon for $10.17 each, Prime Member. Black, too!
I also bump up to 7" upper lateral link tubes. Here is a picture of one installed.
39715

[Hindsight]

Good tip thanks Scargo and Bob! Had no idea they were so common and cheap.

[R.Spec]

Don't really know what to do here. Thinking about making a plate on the aluminum side with studs welded to it to hold the brake master cylinder. Suggestions?

39958

39959

[Hindsight]

Or buy this one:
Brake master cylinder relocator
http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm

Details of the install are on my build thread.

[R.Spec]

Or buy this one:
Brake master cylinder relocator
http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm

Details of the install are on my build thread.

Emailed!

[metalmaker12]

Got it all figured out. Now I am onto the throttle cable. Should i do the big hole little hole slot trick like most people?

F5 forgot to send the manual brake pushrod so that's on its way so I can get the brakes hooked up. Then I am going to run all the lines for that. The fuel system is after that. Then Coolant.



Also I through some 18x9.5" wheels on it for now. The wheels hit at one full lock. But they are 245/40 r18 tires. So I think if I get 255/30/r18 they might not hit as soon and I could get a little more steering wheel turn. maybe 1 1/4 lock, which should be enough. Has anyone notched the frame or aluminum in the front for clearance?

Enjoy some pics

http://i.imgur.com/WdmUmzt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/T15jtp4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/R7J4SE6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sRU4LIt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/opkT5or.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HCs3Rn0.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9eQiABC.jpg


I have rack spacers to correct your tire rubbing. Pm me if you want them sent to you.

Ps your going to need a set of adjustable rear links to get your alinmebt even close.

Remember many have been building these cars and doing great jobs, but very few have them on the road,aligned, all sorted, titled and registered. Also many important tips have been lost in the forum..... Yes this is also motivation for many of you that need to get your cars completed so we can have driving threads to.

[R.Spec]

Haven't posted in awhile. Been really busy at the shop with customer cars and moving in these last couple months, breaking up with my girlfriend, turning 21 etc.

Either way some of my parts showed up today! Manley H-Tuff Rods and King Coated bearings! As well as some minor stoptech rear braided lines. Saving more money for my pistons, clutch, and valvetrain springs!

I got most all of my lines ran, need to rivet them onto the frame. Also need to run the coolant lines, I have been struggling getting the subaru oem hose over the corrugated tubing. I am going to oreillys to try and find larger hoses that fit over easier. Here are a couple pictures!

http://i.imgur.com/ft7CKSel.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ucEeHaul.jpg

[Scargo]

Guys here on the forum have talked about all kinds of lubricants and warming of the rubber to help with the hose's tight fit. Another possibility might be the "blow the grip onto the handlebar" trick which would mean you use air pressure to inflate the hose while you push it on. Would require some stoppers, possible pinching the hose on one end or something similar to trap the pressure. Just a thought since it works so well for installing sleeves and grips on bicycle handlebars.

[Hindsight]

My advice would be to boil the end of the hose in water before you install it. Lubricate the inside with some 100% coolant right before sliding it on. Haven't gotten that far yet myself though.

[Tamra]

We bought the Gates OEM replacement radiator hoses. They went on without any special treatment (just some rubbing alcohol on the inside during install). Obviously, they should be a tight fit to not leak, but it wasn't excessively tight.

[xxguitarist]

^
gates 22885
gates 22886

[R.Spec]

^
gates 22885
gates 22886

ordered. My oreilly's is bringing it to my shop right now. We will see if you are right :p

[R.Spec]

^
gates 22885
gates 22886

I basically love you! Went on like butter! :cool:

[R.Spec]

Got my motor fully assembled. Excited to drop it in. Deciding if I want to just break it in with the td04 or the 35r

41927

[matteo92065]

Got my motor fully assembled. Excited to drop it in.
That does not look fully assembled. It looks like its about 7 hours short of fully assembled. The pulleys, timing belt, intake, covers (oops, those needed to go on before belt), wire harness, sensors, water pump, and all the other little bits that require you to remove stuff that you just installed minutes ago.

Have you figured out what to do with your front tire rub?

[longislandwrx]

That does not look fully assembled. It looks like its about 7 hours short of fully assembled. The pulleys, timing belt, intake, covers (oops, those needed to go on before belt), wire harness, sensors, water pump, and all the other little bits that require you to remove stuff that you just installed minutes ago.

Have you figured out what to do with your front tire rub?

ok mr grumpy pants, maybe that's not a current picture.

[matteo92065]

yeah, I reread my post. Sorry it came across that way. I certainly didn't want it to. It was more of a kidding around tone (in my head) when I wrote it.
I thought R.Spec might have been kidding around with us too.

[Scargo]

It looks skinny.. In need of a good meal.

[R.Spec]

yeah, I reread my post. Sorry it came across that way. I certainly didn't want it to. It was more of a kidding around tone (in my head) when I wrote it.
I thought R.Spec might have been kidding around with us too.

I mostly meant that the longblock was assembled. I work on subarus for a living and we build so many motors, once it gets to the longblock stage, everything goes so quick for us, so I just said it was fully assembled. It won't take me long to throw the accessories, fuel rails, intake mani on. I did wrinkle black paint my tgvs and intake manifold though! Looks so good. And deleted my tgv's. Yippeee!!!!

41962

[R.Spec]

Finished my tranny conversion!

43060

[carbon fiber]

Finished my tranny conversion!

43060
We're still talking about cars right?!:p Just kidding, couldn't resist. Your build is coming along nicely. I'm a big fan of black wrinkle paint, it'll be a clean look on the intake.

[R.Spec]

https://41.media.tumblr.com/a5c19ef67f2673a0d8c4e1486d964763/tumblr_nsob6v8Y6q1rpq8f3o1_540.jpg

little update. Now i am working on fuel fittings and lines currently. Riveting some more interior aluminum in. Then firewall and wiring!

[Hindsight]

Looking good. Will the cross brace (which you don't have bolted in yet) fit with that rotated turbo? Are you using a pre-made rotated up-pipe or did you fab that one? I've been trying to figure out if a rotated turbo will fit back there without any cross brace modification if I build my own up-pipe.

[R.Spec]

Looking good. Will the cross brace (which you don't have bolted in yet) fit with that rotated turbo? Are you using a pre-made rotated up-pipe or did you fab that one? I've been trying to figure out if a rotated turbo will fit back there without any cross brace modification if I build my own up-pipe.

it's a pre fabbed one and as of now no it does not work. We will be cutting and modifying the up pipe to make it fit. Along with that I believe I will be building a RMIC similar to the six star car.

[Hindsight]

Cool cool! You can also consider modifying the cross brace instead... that is, if it's even possible with the turbo location. I think a couple people with a larger stock-location turbo even had to modify the cross brace a bit. Which turbo is that on there? I've been considering a GTX3071R. I know the 3076 is very popular but I think the boost would come on a little too violently for the 818 and a bit much lag for my taste.

[R.Spec]

Cool cool! You can also consider modifying the cross brace instead... that is, if it's even possible with the turbo location. I think a couple people with a larger stock-location turbo even had to modify the cross brace a bit. Which turbo is that on there? I've been considering a GTX3071R. I know the 3076 is very popular but I think the boost would come on a little too violently for the 818 and a bit much lag for my taste.

Hence why I went with a gt35r with a tial .63. Great top end power with quick spool and shouldn't create too much torque with that small hotside. Plus I am crazy :cool:

[Aero STI]

I fit my internally gated twinscroll EFR7163 beneath the cross brace. I fabricated a custom uppipe, but that was not that big of a headache. A single scroll turbo would be a piece of cake to make fit below the cross brace.

http://i.imgur.com/ywZtsf3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/d02dL9z.jpg

[Tamra]

Aerosti, how much clearance do you have between the turbo/cross brace?

Rspec, your car is looking great, and that is a huge turbo. I want a video of you attempting to put the power down once you're all done :)

[Aero STI]

Aerosti, how much clearance do you have between the turbo/cross brace?

Rspec, your car is looking great, and that is a huge turbo. I want a video of you attempting to put the power down once you're all done :)

Maybe 1". It's close, but nothing alarming. I have a really nice turbo blanket to seal in the hotside heat.

[Hindsight]

I fit my internally gated twinscroll EFR7163 beneath the cross brace. I fabricated a custom uppipe, but that was not that big of a headache. A single scroll turbo would be a piece of cake to make fit below the cross brace.

http://i.imgur.com/ywZtsf3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/d02dL9z.jpg

Nice! I wouldn't have thought to orient the turbo that direction.... with the inlet hose routing under the intake manifold. Does rotating it the other way cause exhaust clearance issues?

[Aero STI]

Nice! I wouldn't have thought to orient the turbo that direction.... with the inlet hose routing under the intake manifold. Does rotating it the other way cause exhaust clearance issues?

I mocked the turbo in many different orientations. It works with the turbo pointed in the more standard rotated configuration that you describe and is seen Subaru engine bays. As can be seen with my configuration and what Andrew/Tamra came up with, there is a ton of flexibility with the 818 if you're fabricating the exhaust parts yourself. If memory serves, this orientation allowed for the shortest uppipe tube length.

[Frank818]

Hence why I went with a gt35r with a tial .63. Great top end power with quick spool and shouldn't create too much torque with that small hotside. Plus I am crazy :cool:

That's what I have, a GT3582R with .63 A/R and 35mm Tial WG. Spools very quickly on a 2.8L, if I recall, according to my ECU logs, it's something like 0.5 to 0.8second.

[R.Spec]

When would be a good time to put my firewall on?

[R.Spec]

I guess I will update this turd.....

I GOT IT RUNNING! Vroom Vroom. Quickly ran the wiring, alligator clipped some grounds, bought a new battery. Extended starter wire etc. etc. Flashed my own custom tune on it and it fired up first go. We had one oil leak from the drivers banjo bolt. Forgot to tighten it when I put the motor together. Some fuel leaks from an incompatible Y fitting, the AN threads were too short and bottoming out. Then a small water leak from a hose clamp not tight enough. Burping the water was kind of a *****, but the vacuum filler we have at the shop did a great job, and once we jacked the front of the car higher than the rest it drank all the water up and was perfect. Idiot me didn't install the fuel pump assembly right and left the oem Venturi return piece on and then put the gas cap on, it shot fuel everywhere ahahaha. Then I trimmed it and made a proper vent.

Now here are some videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gneQ4DMI1s&feature=youtu.be

[R.Spec]

And some ANTI LAG! just mild stuff


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f01QVvWds4&feature=youtu.be

[mikeb75]

nice; sounds like it's running well on the startup video!

[matteo92065]

I bet you are dying to drive it now.

[shinn497]

edit it does nvm

awesome!

[Frank818]

We can tell from the video you are really happy! That's how it should be.

[R.Spec]

I bet you are dying to drive it now.

Been driving it for the last couple days. First drive was 9/7/2015.

Got the brakes dialed in, bled them and it wasn't too bad. stops pretty good, need to bed in the pads and rotors for the front. Still not hard to lock up the fronts though. Also got my fuel level sensor working. Riveting on my rear firewall today. Been cleaning up wiring every single day. Almost to a point where I am happy. Axles weren't too bad to build. Also with no boost and a rev limit at 4500rpm, this thing gets sideways easy. I was cutting some cookies the other day and having so much fun! :cool: can't wait to kill myself with boost. Might want to invest in new tires quickly. Also think I am gonna replace the master and slave cylinder for the clutch cause it just isn't bleeding right and feeling proper.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-PfTHslz4Y

[Rasmus]

Just Say No to Vertical Video.
- Nancy Reagan

Nice work getting the first test drive.

[R.Spec]

Just Say No to Vertical Video.
- Nancy Reagan

Nice work getting the first test drive.

i know i know. my buddy filmed it. :confused:

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first drive and start!

[R.Spec]

Cries inside. Looks like surge tank is in the works. Noticed the baffling sucks really bad in the FFR tank. Going right around a corner at less than half tank causes starvation of the pump.

[Rasmus]

I think you have the new tank. So I don't know about the baffling. But you might want to look into these:

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/pics/MP_single_small.jpg http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/pics/MP_bottom_small.jpg
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/pickups.html

The Offroad 4x4 guys have been using them for years to prevent fuel starvation. They use 4 of them. One for each corner of the tank and splice 'em all together with stainless steel fuel pipe/brake line inside the tank with small splices of hose that can take being immersed in fuel all the time. Inexpensive too, at about $30 per. And you don't have to run a second fuel pump or buy an expensive surge tank with all the fittings. It's the fitting that really get ya.

I'm sure we could get away with just using two. One for the right of the tank. One for the left.

[Frank818]

Does the new FFR tank use less baffles than the old 33 hotrod one?

[R.Spec]

Does the new FFR tank use less baffles than the old 33 hotrod one?

45451
Here is the baffling.

[Frank818]

I see. Where lies the fuel pump? Left or right side in the pic? If it's right side, ugh...

[R.Spec]

I see. Where lies the fuel pump? Left or right side in the pic? If it's right side, ugh...
the lower left side. I filled the tank all the way. Btw how many gallons does it hold. it appears 12 or 13 gallons. But with it full there are no starvation issues. so that is good! ahaha

[Frank818]

13 US gallons.
Unless they changed it for the new tank.

[R.Spec]

Cutting the rear tailight and turn signal holes. The manual doesn't specify how to cut the rear taillight holes, did you guys just use a massive hole saw or what?

[matteo92065]

I used massive hole saw.

[Pearldrummer7]

Cutting the rear tailight and turn signal holes. The manual doesn't specify how to cut the rear taillight holes, did you guys just use a massive hole saw or what?

Yup- 4"


Cries inside. Looks like surge tank is in the works. Noticed the baffling sucks really bad in the FFR tank. Going right around a corner at less than half tank causes starvation of the pump.

I ran into that issue on the track both times I've had it out. I ordered one of these guys (https://www.radiumauto.com/Standard-Fuel-Surge-Tanks-P515.aspx) and will post updates on how it goes.

[Scargo]

Dremel has an attachment for cutting a perfect radius (withing a certain range). It might be worth looking at if you or a friend have it. I did a lot of decent radiuses with my Ingersoll-Rand reciprocating air saw and then smoothed them up with this sanding drum (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H684O6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage), which is an amazing tool for composites.

[R.Spec]

So I got the rear body panel drilled with all the lights in. Got the headlight bukets in the front bumper. Started to mount up the side panel on the drivers side, but I have a couple things holding me up. Don't have the floor pan permanently in place because I don't have my passenger seat welded in yet. But I don't have that seat welded in because I am battling the new gas tank design and that angled bar right in front of the seat section. The seat has to sit far enough forward because of the gas tank that now it hits the right side of that angled bar. So I will have to raise the passenger seat up about 2in it appears. I bought 1 1/4" square tubing and that wasnt even enough to raise the seat. So now I am on the search for some 2" square tubing to weld the passenger seat in.

http://i.imgur.com/EiHnLSEl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UeQ76oOl.jpg

Also trying to decide on intercooler type. I designed a horizontal flow intercooler for the rear with a backdoor entry. But Extreme Turbo Systems (my sponsor) decided that it would not flow enough with the dimensions of only 20"x8"x4". My power goal of 500+whp will give it excess back pressure and won't be efficient. My choice at this point is to somehow squeeze a 20"x11"x4" core in the back of the car, or to go to AWIC. Is that kit by VCP really everything I would need and it's only $500? That seems like a pretty good route. Reviews on them?

http://i.imgur.com/eHaHAHm.png

[Hindsight]

I have the new FFR gas tank too and it doesn't take away any more room from the passenger seat than the old one. Or are you talking about a different tank?

That price you mentioned for the VCP intercooler kit doesn't look right: http://www.verycoolparts.com/awic.htm

I know a number of forum members bought it and like it. C.Plavan and MetalMaker are two that come to mind. They have details in their build threads. I think everyone who has them is happy with them.

The rear-mount A2A intercooler has been discussed a lot and the issue is that you aren't going to get a lot of flow through it. You can mount it in the very back between the tail lights as one or two others have but then you're pulling hot air from the engine compartment through it which would be counter productive. No one who has done this has posted intake temps yet. You can't put it on top of the engine and have venting for it there because that is a low pressure zone due to the windshield. About the only option is to figure out a way to have it behind the side scoops with a really good duct sealing it off to the side scoop. A couple people are working on this but no one has it on the road yet.

You can make your own A2W intercooler setup as well (I'm doing that as well as a few others here like Mechie and Tamra/Andrew), but unless you are really good at engineering something on paper and having it work 100% right on the car, you may end up spending more than Wayne's kit due to buying stuff you don't end up using (IE re-evolving your design as you assemble it on the car), and then there is the time factor too.

[R.Spec]

I have the new FFR gas tank too and it doesn't take away any more room from the passenger seat than the old one. Or are you talking about a different tank?

That price you mentioned for the VCP intercooler kit doesn't look right: http://www.verycoolparts.com/awic.htm

I know a number of forum members bought it and like it. C.Plavan and MetalMaker are two that come to mind. They have details in their build threads. I think everyone who has them is happy with them.

The rear-mount A2A intercooler has been discussed a lot and the issue is that you aren't going to get a lot of flow through it. You can mount it in the very back between the tail lights as one or two others have but then you're pulling hot air from the engine compartment through it which would be counter productive. No one who has done this has posted intake temps yet. You can't put it on top of the engine and have venting for it there because that is a low pressure zone due to the windshield. About the only option is to figure out a way to have it behind the side scoops with a really good duct sealing it off to the side scoop. A couple people are working on this but no one has it on the road yet.

You can make your own A2W intercooler setup as well (I'm doing that as well as a few others here like Mechie and Tamra/Andrew), but unless you are really good at engineering something on paper and having it work 100% right on the car, you may end up spending more than Wayne's kit due to buying stuff you don't end up using (IE re-evolving your design as you assemble it on the car), and then there is the time factor too.

Sorry I was thinking this one? http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/products/air-to-water-intercooler-awic/

[STiPWRD]

Is that kit by VCP really everything I would need and it's only $500? That seems like a pretty good route. Reviews on them?
Wayne's kit is more like $1400.

I got my AWIC through Craig. The parts from Frozenboost came out to $480 and the extra brackets from Craig (Zero dB) for the AWIC rear brace and heat exchanger were $190, so total was $670 for everything. Your rotated turbo setup would lend itself well to an AWIC since you could probably shorten up much of the piping and couplers. The AWIC is a more complex setup but water is significantly more efficient at cooling than air and will take up a lot less space in your engine bay considering the size of the A2A intercooler you'd need and surrounding isolation from the engine heat.

[Wayne Presley]

So I got the rear body panel drilled with all the lights in. Got the headlight bukets in the front bumper. Started to mount up the side panel on the drivers side, but I have a couple things holding me up. Don't have the floor pan permanently in place because I don't have my passenger seat welded in yet. But I don't have that seat welded in because I am battling the new gas tank design and that angled bar right in front of the seat section. The seat has to sit far enough forward because of the gas tank that now it hits the right side of that angled bar. So I will have to raise the passenger seat up about 2in it appears. I bought 1 1/4" square tubing and that wasnt even enough to raise the seat. So now I am on the search for some 2" square tubing to weld the passenger seat in.

http://i.imgur.com/EiHnLSEl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UeQ76oOl.jpg

Also trying to decide on intercooler type. I designed a horizontal flow intercooler for the rear with a backdoor entry. But Extreme Turbo Systems (my sponsor) decided that it would not flow enough with the dimensions of only 20"x8"x4". My power goal of 500+whp will give it excess back pressure and won't be efficient. My choice at this point is to somehow squeeze a 20"x11"x4" core in the back of the car, or to go to AWIC. Is that kit by VCP really everything I would need and it's only $500? That seems like a pretty good route. Reviews on them?



You can install the floor pan under the seats on a completed car, don't let that hold you up. But fit the body in this order. Clamp both side pods to the frame in the door opening with the 5/8" front measurement as a STARTING point. lightly bolt the tail on both side pods, then lay the engine cover on. Slide the engine cover as far forward on the frame as the roll hoop will allow. Adjust the side pods fore or aft so the engine cover matches the top of the door opening and lays squarely in the opening. Put the door striker support on the frame and against the body. Shine a light from behind and drill the striker bolt holes in the center of the slot area that you can see through the lighted body. Mount the latch on the door frame and latch the frame to the striker. Mount the hinges to the front of the door frame and to the chassis. Lay a 5" wide strip of regular cardboard from the striker to the front edge of the door. Slide the door skin under the front edge of the frame and on top of the cardboard, mark the area on the skin to go around the striker and cut it out. Slide the skin back in and adjust the door frame up or down to have the the little wing on the bottom of the door frame just touch the skin. On the latch side adjust the depth and angle of the skin and then drill a hole through the frame above the latch and door skin. Open the door and put a screw and nut on it. Do the same below the latch. Slide the front of the skin in to 3/16" of the vertical face of the side pod. You WILL have to round off the lower front corner of the door skin for the door to be able to open. Drill a hole in the lower frame flag and through the skin. Unbolt the hinges so you can insert a screw from under the door skin through the frame. Bolt the door hinges back on and you should be able to remove the cardboard and the door gaps should be perfect and the door will swing great.


Wayne's kit is more like $1400.

I got my AWIC through Craig. The parts from Frozenboost came out to $480 and the extra brackets from Craig (Zero dB) for the AWIC rear brace and heat exchanger were $190, so total was $670 for everything. Your rotated turbo setup would lend itself well to an AWIC since you could probably shorten up much of the piping and couplers. The AWIC is a more complex setup but water is significantly more efficient at cooling than air and will take up a lot less space in your engine bay considering the size of the A2A intercooler you'd need and surrounding isolation from the engine heat.

My set up comes with choice of Turbosmart bypass or blow off valve. I use a Bosch IC pump, supply all the coolant hoses, fittings, hose clamps, tubing clamps, Tbolt clamps, IC core mounts, heat exchanger and every nut and bolt needed to complete the installation.

[Scargo]

May I play Devil's Advocate?
I know a number of forum members bought it and like it. C.Plavan and MetalMaker are two that come to mind. They have details in their build threads. I think everyone who has them is happy with them.

The rear-mount A2A intercooler has been discussed a lot and the issue is that you aren't going to get a lot of flow through it. You can mount it in the very back between the tail lights as one or two others have but then you're pulling hot air from the engine compartment through it which would be counter productive. No one who has done this has posted intake temps yet. You can't put it on top of the engine and have venting for it there because that is a low pressure zone due to the windshield. About the only option is to figure out a way to have it behind the side scoops with a really good duct sealing it off to the side scoop. A couple people are working on this but no one has it on the road yet.

While some may be happy with AWIC, I don't think it is well-proven in racing. Only Chad's car?
The "backdoor", rear-mounted ATA idea sounds like a really bad idea.
I wonder who has tried any "out of the box" ATA cooling schemes? A couple have been talked about. I believe people are driving cars without AWIC, but the feedback seems to be lacking as to how any ATA has worked out on the street, let alone the track. I could see how mild-mannered street driving or highway driving would not stress an ATA cooler because neither boost or high engine heat would be present.
I'm not convinced that ATA should be dismissed as unworkable. It seems obvious that the heat exchanger cannot be right above the engine, in the stagnant hot air of the engine compartment. Air movement has to come from somewhere.
I just can't recall much from anyone, as to results, except Jerome Silvers, who did not have success with ATA with fans added and went to AWIC.
Cosmetic constraints for a street car are one thing, but I could see an ATA radiator working if it were up in the airstream or had a lot of air directed over it. If it works in STis then why not in an 818?

[Canadian818]

Have you considered a 6" core?

[longislandwrx]

I am still going to try and make an a2a work, I have some designs in my mind, one of the more simple is using the ffr trunk to isolate the core, a wrx scoop on top and vented out the back.

[R.Spec]

Long time. Started getting motivation recently. Finally started the body. Got front almost done. Rear almost done. Need to put rivnuts for the side sails still. Then work on door innards! Trying to get the car ready for summer season! Want to get it registered and driving. interior and stuff can get done later! Still need an AWIC, as well as to fab up the exhaust.

Here Is where I am at!

http://i.imgur.com/E0SiJtx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vuTw9rI.jpg

Now I messed up. I cut the lip on the fender at an angle thinking it needed it for the hood to sit lower. Now when I push the hood down it shoves the fenders out. Should I just cut a hard 90 further up the fender on the lip? Or try to make a new lip further down?

http://i.imgur.com/WTY9xno.jpg

[Hindsight]

Make a new lip out of fiberglass is what i would do.