Shock mount issues

[RickGT40]

Hello,
I have an issue with the location of the bottom of all 4 shocks on my Mk IV kit. It is a base kit with IRS. The donor is a 1994 Mustang GT 5 speed. I used the front LCA and spindles and the steering rack (which I de-powered) from the donor. I drilled the shock mount in the LCA in the location indicated in the instructions, as best I could determine. I also used the rack extenders and new tie rods from the kit. When I put the wheels on and put it on the ground to check ride height and base alignment I discovered that the tie rods hit the springs at full crank in each direction. The overlap was perhaps as much as 3/8". I drilled new holes for the shock mounts further back in the spring pockets in the LCA and mostly solved the problem. I will cut new spacers to move the shock to get the balance of the room I need.

In the back I installed the shocks with the spacers as indicated in the manual, short in the front and long in the back. When I put the chassis on the ground to check ride height I found that the spring cap hits the tube in front of the shock. I will have to fix that by cutting new spacers to move the eye of the shock.

I would like to know if these are issues unique to me or have others with IRS or donor front suspension had issues installing the shocks according to the manual.
Thanks,
Rick

[DaleG]

Try installing the shocks "upside down".

[CraigS]

Rick, how about some pictures.

[RickGT40]

I just looked at the packing list for the IRS box and the spacers are listed as long for the front bottom and short for the rear bottom. The manual says the opposite. I installed per the manual and there is interference. Here are pictures.
365673656836569

I will switch the spacers on the rear shocks and see how that works, and make new spacers for the front.

[DaleG]

Oh, I misunderstood.

[Dan Babb]

Off the topic of your post, but you're going to hate the depowered donor rack. If you aren't going to keep it powered, getting a true manual rack isn't expensive and is worth every dime.

On my first build, I was planning on keeping the depowered rack. I drove a friend's FFR that used it and went home and ripped it out and got a manual rack instead. I think you get a manual rack from a 79 Mustang (confirm that before running out and buying one)...or check out the stuff offered by BreezeAutomotive.com

[RickGT40]

Dan,
What was the specific issue you had with the depowered rack?
Rick

[Dan Babb]

It's really hard to turn..especially at low speeds. When I drove it, going around a cul-de-sac was a lot of effort with 2 hands on the wheel. A right turn into my driveway was even worse.

I wound up getting a manual rack on my last car that had around an 18:1 ratio...night & day difference.

I have PS on my current car and like it even more. Since you have the power rack...it wouldn't take much to put the lines back on and keep it powered.

[68GT500MAN]

Just flip the shock/spring assembly over so that the spring is on the top - problem solved.
Doug

[RickGT40]

Thanks for the suggestions for remedy. I know what I will do to solve the issue. What I want to know is if this is an issue anyone else has had while following the manual.

[Norm B]

I used 1995 lower control arms and had the same issue with the front as you did. Didn't have to re-drill the lower control arms but did make new spacers to move the shock back as much as possible. Made sure I moved both the top and bottom of the shock equally to provide the same geometry. I bought Breeze solid offset rack bushings that move the rack forward to help provide more clearance.

Set the suspension up at ride height with a wheel installed and you will probably find you have an interference issue between the wheel and lower control arm long before the tie rod and spring. I installed 12mm rack limiters to prevent the wheels rubbing on the lower control arms. The picture is what mine looked like originally. I have no issues now.

I also went with power steering, because of a bad back, and find the car really nice to drive.

Good Luck
Norm