3/4" Sq Transmission Tunnel Tube Cut for TKO 600 Mid Shifter

[4.6 litre]

Guys,

I'm sending my chassis out for some welding mods. One of the mods is relocating the 3/4 in square transmission tube required to accommodate the Mike Forte's TKO 600 mid shifter. I don't have the transmission as yet. I have 2bking post showing the mod but there is another photograph out there showing the 3/4 in square tube section removed with the transmission installed. I want to give that photograph to my fabricator/welder. If you know of this photograph can you please post it. My chassis gets picked up this Friday.

Thanks much,

Damien

[pcww]

Damien,
are you saying that if you use a t 600 with a mid shift that you have to cut the frame?

[NICK C]

I have a TKO 600 and a 460 engine and did not have to cut anything on frame. With the bent forward shifter I find it in a good position. Nick C

[jlfernan]

I didn't relocate the cut piece. When I went through the build school they felt it was not necessary. I had a 302 with the TKO600.

36555

[NukeMMC]

Mike Casey built a Mk4 on the other forum (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/2622658-post156.html) with a FMS 427 (351w based) & midshift TKO. He had to relocate a cross tube. I used a 351w but reversed the shifter in the rear location (same as EdwardB (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/299597-mk4-7750-build-progress-update-3.html#post3674986)) and used the Finish Line FFR bent shifter and didn't have to cut any tubes.
It depends on your engine (big block, mod motor or Windsor) and shift handle. If you're hell-bent on a midshift, I would advise you wait until your transmission arrives before you cut.

[pcww]

Jorge,
PM'd you on the great dead pedal.

[mcwho]

I too am interested in the TKO-600 mid shift, so far I have seen a couple people using the forward bent shifter in the original (rear) shifter location. I don't have my tranny as yet but it is on order. I am interested in where the mid shift steeda or similar shift handle falls and of course whether the 3/4" tube will need to be cut and or relocated.

[michael everson]

Cut it and forget it. Shouldn't be an issue
Mike

[mcwho]

jlfernan, that pic looks like a ideal location for the shifter IMO. With the seat in does if seem to be in exactly the right position for your hand?

[jlfernan]

To me it works perfectly. Your hand falls right to it and it's more normal feeling than the more up and down shift pattern of the rear mounted shifter.

[edwardb]

Mike Casey built a Mk4 on the other forum (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/2622658-post156.html) with a FMS 427 (351w based) & midshift TKO. He had to relocate a cross tube. I used a 351w but reversed the shifter in the rear location (same as EdwardB (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/299597-mk4-7750-build-progress-update-3.html#post3674986)) and used the Finish Line FFR bent shifter and didn't have to cut any tubes. It depends on your engine (big block, mod motor or Windsor) and shift handle. If you're hell-bent on a midshift, I would advise you wait until your transmission arrives before you cut.

Here's a follow-up to the link provided from my build. Shows the shifter in the now completed interior. Note this is a TKO600 with a small block. The stock rear shifter is unbolted by removing the six bolts and rotating the shifter 180 degrees, which will move the shifter forward approximately 2-3/4 inches. Then add the ********** 427 shifter. It clears the existing transmission tunnel framework.

Although it may not look like it in the pics, the movement is almost completely front to back vs. up and down. It falls perfectly under hand from the driver's seat. Plus is a bit more authentic looking. Something guys should look at before going to the effort and expense of the mid-shift conversion IMO.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/th_IMG_2901_zpsd79e4a0c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2901_zpsd79e4a0c.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/th_IMG_2904_zps5f28dea2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2904_zps5f28dea2.jpg.html)

[2bking]

The stock rear shifter is unbolted by removing the six bolts and rotating the shifter 180 degrees,

This is an option built into the transmission that doesn't require additional parts. I bought the mid shifter and converted the transmission before I tried the no cost option.
The mid shift puts the shifter knob close to the dash which isn't a problem but just at the edge of the reach comfort zone for me. Had I tried the no cost option, I might have preferred it. The mid shift option disables the neutral switch in the transmission, not sure about the 180* option.

[edwardb]

The mid shift option disables the neutral switch in the transmission, not sure about the 180* option.

Nope. Doesn't change anything, including the neutral switch. Just flips the shifter around and it plugs into a different socket in the shift rails.

[NukeMMC]

From what I have and my research for my build, if u want the bent 427 shifter, turn the rear shifter plate around to the more forward position. If you want a short, vertical shifter (like a 289) use a midshift and cut the 3/4" tubing.

[DaleG]

Cut it and forget it. Shouldn't be an issue
Mike

That's what I did for my TKO 500 mid-shift.

[KauaiMK4]

Per consultation with the folks at Factory Five, if you have a newer edition MK4 kit (Received mine in Jan 2014), you should not have to cut the transmission tunnel cross-piece to fit the TKO600 with mid-shift. They apparently moved the support members to allow for this optional installation.

You may want to check your frame with them as to whether or not it is the newer version.

[2bking]

Per consultation with the folks at Factory Five, if you have a newer edition MK4 kit (Received mine in Jan 2014), you should not have to cut the transmission tunnel cross-piece to fit the TKO600 with mid-shift. They apparently moved the support members to allow for this optional installation.

You may want to check your frame with them as to whether or not it is the newer version.

Mine is 8127 and it needed the tube moved. I put a little dog leg in it and welded it back to keep the strength in that area.

[DaleG]

Per consultation with the folks at Factory Five, if you have a newer edition MK4 kit (Received mine in Jan 2014), you should not have to cut the transmission tunnel cross-piece to fit the TKO600 with mid-shift. They apparently moved the support members to allow for this optional installation.

You may want to check your frame with them as to whether or not it is the newer version.

It may depend on your shifter; my Pro 5 required the cut....too large by ~1/8". MK4 #8075.

[4.6 litre]

Guys,

Need to add some information. I have a MK4 with a Coyote engine. I talked to Mike Forte about the 3/4" sq. transmission tunnel bar some time ago. He told me that even with the mid shifter stick reversed the stick would still be too far forward to be comfortable. He advised me not to reverse the shifter and to cut the 3/4" square tunnel bar. He said that it wouldn't be necessary to re-weld the bar because there's no structural problem. I value Mike's comment but I wanted to re-weld the tunnel bar anyway so it looked nice. In addition I am implementing 2bking's DS and PS foot box mods which also require welding.

So since all my welding, including the tunnel bar, will be done at one time by my panel fabricator I wanted to re-welding the tunnel bar just like the 2bking post. However from that post I cannot determine the angle that the re-welded bar should take.

The other photograph I am referring to shows the skeleton transmission tunnel, the TKO600 mid shifter with the 3/4" bar partially cut out. It appears to me that no one has seen that other photograph. It could be on the other Forum.

You guys have given me some great information. I am not that worried about this bar anymore. A lot of folks don't think I need to cut it. That's good news. I will call FF tomorrow and discuss this with them. I'll let you know what I find out.

Thanks for your comments.

Damien

It's going to cost me $250 to have the chassis picked welded and returned to me. I want all the chassis welding to be once. My fabricator will also be able to check that all the DS panels will fit after the 3/4" DS sq tube is also moved to accommodate the modified DS interior vertical panel

My MK 4 was delivered this last August.

[DaleG]

Damien, while its out for welding, select some strategic locations on the chassis and have them weld on bolts of varying sizes for grounding locations; 3/8" -1/2" on the round tube on PS near starter for Bat (+), same on DS for engine ground, 1/4" at each of the 4 corners near quick jacks, a few on the 2x2 behind the dash, etc.

[2bking]

Here is a drawing (https://www.dropbox.com/s/is9yyizl5vie9gv/mk4_frame.pdf?dl=0) I made for moving the tube. Mine needed the 1.75" dimension to clear the Mid Shifter. I made the "V" notch in the tube because welding the top corner would be difficult, welding the notch easier. After cutting the weld at the lower end of the tube, I trimmed it to the dimensions shown and welded the seams.

[4.6 litre]

Thanks Dale for the input.

Damien

[ckrueger]

Mine is a April 2014 kit with Coyote, TKO 500 with mid shift and no cutting was required.