Making Reliable Electrical Connections. Solder VS Crimp....... CRIMP!!

[Harley818]

Hi All,
I've read a number of debates about solder vs crimp and have been trying to find some good reference material.
I am in the middle of my wiring diet and I hate the big mess of spagetti that I have after cutting 1/2 of the wires out.
I have deleted TGV, EGT, ABS, AC, Airbags, PS, PDL, Audio, etc.

Found a really good link ...... on crimp vs Solder.
I didn't like solder, and now I have a good rationale. Now I just need to find a good source for the crimps and invest in a crimper.

See the link here.

http://www.digitalmee.net/2013/01/24/making-reliable-electrical-connections-for-your-car/

Its not mine, but is detailed and logical.
I hope it is helpful.

Let me know if anyone has a good economic source for a crimper and ferrules.

Harley

[svanlare]

I know the debate rages on solder vs. crimp, but I'm solidly in the crimp camp. I use these as I like the shrink wrap to both seal and do some strain relief.
http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink-Butt-Connectors/p_805404

I like the crimper a lot as well, but it is pricy.
http://www.delcity.net/store/Insulated-Terminal-Ratchet-Crimp-Tool/p_793366

[Harley818]

Thanks Svanlare.
Looks like you arent the only one using Delcity......

Here is another link to a race oriented forum...... just to add some objectivity. One of the posts recommends delcity...

http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f299/best-way-make-automotive-electric-wiring-connection-5408/

[tirod]

I will add this as another: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

Millitary specification is crimp. Think about it - vehicles designed for harsh use, with cabling that has watertight connections for repeated servicing and battle damage repair.

Sound like racing? Think Bonneville - all those wild photos of salt encrusted cars are why. The stuff sprays up under the car and gets into every fitting. Warm wet salt that sits on connectors, exposed breaks in the insulation, wicking its way at a rate of inches per hour under the coating as it travels up bare copper conductors.

Soldering isn't going to help one bit. And it will cause the connection to be more brittle, fatigue, and fail. Let's not forget a lot of engine circuits are now attempting to transmit changes to the ECU in tenths of a volt.

Any spring or fall morning could condense a more dilute solution onto the connnections and it will wick up the wiring just the same. We shouldn't look to the makers as a standard for wiring - they are in it to sell you another car, and after 10 years and 250,000 miles most are junked because the electrical circuits are failing. You can't get an EFI car to run right if it's fighting a 1.5 volt drop in a critical circuit. No wonder the check engine lights come on.

It's a two parts system - crimp, and then make it as water resistant as possible. The average bass boat has better water resistance, the average flood damaged car is often illegal to resell in some states. There's a reason for that.

Crimp is just half of the debate, it's really about not using maker specification wire at all. Use plated multistrand with protected connections and the problems are substantially put off.

[iWire]

I've seen this debate so many times over the years. Simple real wold answer, both are good if done right and both will fail if done wrong. Just make sure the joint is done correctly (IE proper tools).

These are just the basics I use for the 818 harnesses, and there are plenty more in the box.
36544

In the 818 harnesses I use a combination of both, it just depends on the situation. In the Subaru/Subaru harness merges I've done for the past 10 years have all been soldered and shrink tubed and have never had an issue.


Crimp is just half of the debate, it's really about not using maker specification wire at all. Use plated multistrand with protected connections and the problems are substantially put off.
Proper wire is critical. The junk at Autozone isn't going to cut it.

[svanlare]

I really like the article from tirod. Bonneville is about as bad an environment as you can find.

[129st]

I remember an experienced EE advising that solder is only an electrical connection and is never to be considered in any way a mechanical attachment. Any component to be soldered must have secure strain connections already in place.

The advantage of a quality crimp attachment is that it provides both at once... it includes an electrical crimp to the copper wire and also a strain relief crimp to the insulated wire cover.

I have also included solder over the copper wire crimp on a connection where low millivolt drop is important. Only do this on brass crimp connectors, not plated.