First Coyote first start in a FFR, I think.

[Richard Oben]

Jerry Hanson of KC and his main man Vic Lawrence of Flagstaff AZ recieved the kit this February and have been very busy. Today was a VERY big day. First start for a Coyote Crate motor in an FFR. I am not sure if we were first but I think we are.

North Racecars helped with the wiring and figuring out of stuff, with the help of Oldguy and Dave Borden. We bought a C&L Mass air kit, the flanges from AST Glenn, a Canton surge tank and plumbed away. We had a couple of minor leaks but other than that it fired up and idled after we un crossed one wire. The fly by wire works and it actually go carted, all of this happening today. Thanks to those that figured out stuff we had not. I have pix and a short video (I hope) and will post them later today or tomorrow. Cheers Richard.

[dallas_]

I have pix and a short video (I hope) and will post them later today or tomorrow. Cheers Richard.

Congrats! Looking forward to seeing (and hearing) that.

[JGPierce]

Fantastic! Love to see the engine pix and what you did with the air filter/MAF.

John

[Richard Oben]

Video:
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/th_IMGP0015-2.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/?action=view&current=IMGP0015-2.mp4)

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/IMGP0014-2.jpg

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/IMGP0013-2.jpg

[Richard Oben]

Computer mounted
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/IMGP0005-6.jpg

Passenger header:
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/IMGP0012-2.jpg

Driver header alternator, oil pressure and steering
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/IMGP0008-4.jpg

Coolant tank detail.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/IMGP0010-3.jpg

[Richard Oben]

Mass air mount until we move it lower which may not be until the body is on.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/IMGP0006-6.jpg

Water temp, we have since mounted it with a tab on the firewall so it grounds.
Also used a 4 way valve to make sure the heads always have coolant flow.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/IMGP0004-8.jpg

Control module.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p250/richardoben/IMGP0003-4.jpg

IF there are any questions let us know. Richard.

[astglenn]

Hey now! That is awesome Richard. Congratulations to the team!

[Garry Bopp]

Richard,

Way to go! That is certainly a great motor for an FFR of any type!

Garry

[Wayne Presley]

Here's the cold air kit I'm making for it. It should not need any tuning and provide cold air from the headlight/brake duct area. Obviously it isn't a Coyote in there but the positioning is correct. It will come with a 30° silicone coupler to attach to the throttle body.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/DSCF0041.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/IMG_4241.jpg

[Someday I Suppose]

Awesome stuff guys, great to see one of these new power plants in a car alive and well.

[Mustang Man]

Hey guys, thanks for posting those photos. I'm still heavily debating the Coyote for our '68 Mustang project. I think we're going to drop the Three-Valve in for now and then upgrade/update to the Coyote later, as Ford Racing has some other engine packages in the pipeline with it.

With that said, my pals at Ford Racing wanted to comment on the install and asked me to post this here:

If possible try to keep the meter the same distance from the throttle body and in the same diameter tube as the factory piece. The closer to this diameter the closer it will be to the factory calibration. In fact, being smaller will not be good as there is a likelihood that in cold weather the meter could "peg out" which we do not like. An 85mm ID housing and the meter dropped in about 18-19" from the throttle body flange for clamping on the hose would be very close. Do not go shorter than 9", this will cause reversion especially if the meter is getting washed with air, see below.

It a good idea to have some buffer in front of the air filter if possible. Air just blasting into the tube can wash the element and cause poor drivability. I know it seems counterintuitive, but having it suck low pressure air is better than being rammed with air.

Lastly for the orientation of the sensor itself you want to make sure it is mounted in such a way that it is unlikely to get condensation in it. This equates out to keeping the mounting flange higher than the rest of the sensor. If you looked at the end of the MAF housing like a clock face you'd want the sensor after 9 and before 3.

Lastly...
If Factory Five comes up withan air inlet variation for their kits, Ford Racing is willing to flow the inlet system and offer a transfer function to them exclusively to use with our install kits.

HTH some Coyote builders...
Mark

[Wayne Presley]

I did clock it at 2 o'clock, it is in the same diameter tube as the original MAF tube, it is placed 14"ish from the front of the throttle body and the filter is out of the ram air. Apparently it's not my first rodeo...:D

[289FIA_Cobra]

Congrats.The engine sound was very healthy!

[WAYNES WORLD]

Nice install. It's good to see the newer engines being used in these cars too. As much as I like the classic stuff I do enjoy the new tech as well.
Wayne

[Richard Oben]

We plan to move it around as we get further along. Right now we are going to leave it alone until the body is on. The MAF is a NON tune required and has the same tube ID as the stock but it does go to 4 inch. My plan is to work with it for now and see what happens. My plan is to put the MAF about a foot ahead of the TB and then put the filter below the radiator to get it cooler but not ram air. Richard.

[Mustang Man]

I wasn't sure Wayne, as I've never seen you in cowboy boots before! :p

The comments from the engineering guys at Ford Racing were more for future readers/lurkers looking for info on dropping a Coyote into one of these (or anything for that matter)...

Just some good info I wanted to pass along...

Mark

[David]

Really nice work Richard!! Looks like a nice clean install as well. Good job! Your headers look awesome. Whoever did the fabrication did a great job adapting the flange. Anyone who needs to adapter headers to the Coyote, contact ASTGlenn for the flange!

Wayne, the Cold Air solution looks really nice! Im sure its going to be a great solutiuon for many if not most of the Coyote builders.

David

[ClemsonS197]

Nice!

Pedal pics?

[Richard Oben]

We did not take any pedal pix, we did the same mod JGPeirce (I think it was him) did. It works fine. HTH, Richard.

[Fifty-Two]

Great job guys! She sounds mean.

And holy cow! ... That Ford computer module is BIG! Looks like it takes a supercomputer to run that beast. :cool:

- John

[ipsale]

Hi Richard,

Could you explain the "non tune" MAF to me? I have the control pack's MAF - is that a non tune or something else? My set up is about as short as your current set up and im hoping there might be an option to keep it that way.

My second question is where did you end up putting the O2 sensors? Are they in one tube of the header or did you bring them all the way down to the collector? If you have any pictures that would be great. Thanks for your thoughts and thanks for developing the oil pan as well!

Rob

[Wayne Presley]

Non tune means the MAF retains the same voltage/kg transfer ratio as the supplied MAF.

[ipsale]

Hi Wayne,

Forgive me for asking what may be a very basic question (I brew beer for a living and this is my first rodeo with a modern engine in any of the cars I have built) but what does that mean to me in lyman's terms? Thanks so much for your help.

Rob

[Richard Oben]

The MAF from FRPP requires the cold air box to avoid a retune. With the C&L kit they supply a sleeve that mimicks the cold air box from Ford so there is no need to retune the computer. For example if I take the sleve out the amount of air around the MAF will change in diameter so the MAF will read different and require a retune.

We are getting some tubing and couples and plan to put the filter low behind the oil cooler hole below the radiator. No ram air but cool air. HTH, Richard.

[Jeff Collins]

Great work, the first of many I'm sure.

[ipsale]

Thanks Richard for taking the time to explain it to me. Having you as a resource on the uncharted coyote build is such a huge help.

Rob

[JGPierce]

Richard,

Looking great. Glad the pedal mod was useful. Was wondering where you ended up putting the O2 sensor with the J-pipes, or did you end up not using it?

Thanks.

John

[Richard Oben]

We put them in the side pipes, that required lengthening the chassis side of the harnesses. We still do not have the correct stainless pipes from FFR but we will put the bungs for the 02 in the same place when they get here.

Here is the problem: the bungs can not go at 3 and 9 but have to go at 4 and 8 BUT they have to mounted square so the do not hit the body and do not point down too far as to get ripped off by the road. HTH, Richard.

[md58]

Richard,

I have been staring at the hose connection assembly you created here with the 4 way valve. I am laying out my install now. Could you explain in detail how you would accomplish this with no heater. I would sure appreciate it.

[JGPierce]

The 2 last pictures show the heater. Would like to see some pix of where you placed the O2 sensors :)

[chrisarella]

Just ordered my kit and configuring for a Coyote. Subscribed for future reference.

[Richard Oben]

The car is out for paint right now so no pix for a while. About 1000 miles now and no big issues. HTH, Richard.

[F-5-R]

Cant wait to build my coyote 5.0 mk4!
Congrats looks & sounds great!