'65 Mustang / GT350R Tribute project

[Gumball]

Well, here we go - my next project has started. It's a '65 that I saved from returning all of its iron to the soil on a local farm. It had been sitting in the same place out behind the barn for 35 years - what was left of the floor was actually lower than the surrounding soil. When I first saw it, it was hidden under trees and bushes that we had to cut down just to get it out. It's in pretty sad shape - no floors, bad rust in all of the typical places, but was a decent car before it was left for a "someday" restoration.

My plan is to either pick a specific original car to replicate or to do it as a Hertz clone, but as an "R" model. The Hertz cars were all '66s, though, but I do like the black/gold combination. Either way, it will be one nasty car when finished - all race car and ready to take on Group 6 in vintage races.

Here it is on the day we saved it...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/Saved_zps5c5911b4.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/Saved_zps5c5911b4.jpg.html)

Floor where the passenger leaf spring mounts - springs ripped out when we pulled it out of its resting place...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/PassSideRearTorqueBoxandDoorJamb_zps05104ee8.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/PassSideRearTorqueBoxandDoorJamb_zps05104ee8.jpg.h tml)

The goal - either white/blue or black/gold... wish me luck!!!

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/5R105RearThreeQuarterDriver_zpsecb43e44.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/5R105RearThreeQuarterDriver_zpsecb43e44.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/66-Shelby_Mustang-GT350H_DV-08_Mh-03_zps2a80adb6.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/66-Shelby_Mustang-GT350H_DV-08_Mh-03_zps2a80adb6.jpg.html)

[Mark Dougherty]

I have been trough exactly what you are taking on
You may want to look for a clean coupe and transplant the roof to a clean chassis.
In the end will save you a lot of time and money

[Jeff Kleiner]

Man Chris, I've done rust repair and panel replacement in the past (and don't wish to do again any time soon) but never on something that far gone. You are ambitious!

Good luck,
Jeff

[Gumball]

Thanks, guys. Some interesting stories behind this car. It was bought by my friend's dad back in the '70s, along with a coupe and convertible (also both '65s). His dad worked at a Ford dealership and he'd hoped to someday make all three into Hertz clones. He was never able to do anything with the cars and all three have been languishing behind their barn ever since. I had my eye on it for years and my friend's mom finally agreed to sell it to me after seeing my FFR. She felt that I'd be able to do the car and her husband's memory proud.

My plan is to build it into a vintage racer - Group 6 legal - and for use as a trackday car (I'm a NASA HPDE instructor and have been away from it for too long). I'm leaning towards picking a specific car that ran back-in-the-day and paying respect to that car and driver by replicating the look. It certainly won't be an exact replica of the R-model cars, though, as I'm going to make safety updates like a complete roll cage and better seat, and most likely won't run any of the rear interior trim.

I've done some sheet metal work in the past and have some very capable friends who have offered to coach me through the process. I already own a MIG welder and this may be just the reason to buy the TIG unit I've always wanted. And, since everything will be stitch and seam welded, I'm not too worried about making the repairs look concours correct.

Underneath will be all Cobra Automotive suspension and brakes - which I used on a '65 coupe I built before the FFR - and the engine is coming from a friend's Group 6 car (a nice little 8,000+ rpm 302). Since I've done ground-up builds on first-gen Mustangs in the past, this will be a welcome step back into a familiar territory and will result in the single-purpose track weapon I've been craving.

[Mark Dougherty]

This will be great
I will be watching this one

here are a couple pics of one I built years ago
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p210/66Fairlane/65%20mustang%20racecar/photobucket-43168-1349410238245.jpg

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p210/66Fairlane/65%20mustang%20racecar/IMAG0236-2.jpg

[Gumball]

Mark - That car is outstanding... I can see all sorts of one-thing-leads-to-another going on with that project. I'll bet it was/is a fun ride.

[kkcalm5]

Chris
I have always loved the 65-66 mustang fastbacks
you bringing one back from the dirt is a great feat and undertaking, congrats on that
Can't wait to see the finished car.
You do excellent work.
Kevin

[Mark Dougherty]

It is a great car
but I always wished I would have stuck to GT350 clone
I love high winding engines like the 1 you are going to use.

[mrmustang]

but I always wished I would have stuck to GT350 clone

Knowing your old car, you should have.

Bill S.

PS: CLONE :D

[Gumball]

Here are a few more pics - it's bad, but not as bad as I'd have guessed after sitting outside for 35 years. Of course, everything at ground level is literally gone, but the upper structures are in fairly decent shape.

The roof and the top of the quarters are in great shape, even where they meet the trunk filler panel. Since it was parked in the '70s, it was never restored, so at least I'm going to be the first one to put new quarters (at least lower skins) on it and I don't have to deal with someone elses weld seams.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/DriverSideViewofBody_zps95582c40.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/DriverSideViewofBody_zps95582c40.jpg.html)

The bottom of the cowl tank has lots of accumulated vegetation and dirt, so it's likely shot, but the top half of the tank is very solid:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20141114_183819814_zps5defb472.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20141114_183819814_zps5defb472.jpg.html)

Door jambs are mostly intact:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20141114_184101672_zps5f8f8fe3.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20141114_184101672_zps5f8f8fe3.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/DriverLowerRearDoorJambCorner_zps2a9b5ae3.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/DriverLowerRearDoorJambCorner_zps2a9b5ae3.jpg.html )

And the inner roof structure / rear package shelf area is good:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/RearSeatPassThroughfromInterior_zps1e3b35d3.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/RearSeatPassThroughfromInterior_zps1e3b35d3.jpg.ht ml)

The front inner aprons will need patching or replacement, as will the cowl sides, rain gutters, and tail light panel. Of course it will need completely new floors (interior and trunk) as well as rear frame rails and rear wheel houses (likely modified a bit to allow for slightly wider wheels & tires). The front frame rails may be okay with some patching on the area where the front bumper brackets used to be, but I won't make a decision on that until it gets media blasted.

[MPTech]

If your metal-working skills are anything like your fiberglass skills and you apply the same attention to detail, this is going to be an amazing restoration. Can't wait to see the progress.
These cars are so cool.

btw, Mark's car looks pretty bad-a$$ too!

[Gumball]

We moved the Rustang to its new home this past weekend - out of my friend's barn and over to my shop. Due to "winter configuration" - i.e., lots of cars in storage, I don't have much room to work, so it'll sit on the trailer until spring when I can dig into it.

For now, I'm content to sit in my big chair and just stare at it while looking through NPD and Year One catalogs and making to-do and to-order lists.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/RustangPassSideFront_zpsc822bf7d.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/RustangPassSideFront_zpsc822bf7d.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/RustangDriverThreeQuarterFront_zpscb3a075b.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/RustangDriverThreeQuarterFront_zpscb3a075b.jpg.htm l)

[bil1024]

Chris -
great project ! I am doing a 69 bird now, but no where near your under taking. Where do you even start ? I would love to do something that intense, keep us updated

[Mark Dougherty]

man that's great
That makes me want to build another

[Gumball]

I've spent a little time these past couple of weeks trying to decide just how to tackle this one. Long before I worked the deal to take this project on, I decided that the guys at Thoroughbred GT in Ohio would play an important part. They sell full floors, skeletons (basically the superstructure under the skin), and full repop unibodies. I figure that I've got four choices:

1. Buy lots of patch panels and cut, weld, repeat.
2. Buy a full floor, cut, weld, repeat (a little less), then move the upper portion of the unibody (front and rear door jambs and up) over to the new floor.
3. Drill out all of the spot-welds on the salvageable metal and have Thoroughbred GT use those pieces in building a new unibody.
4. Just buy a new unibody.

As of now, my plan is option #2. Here's a pic of their full floor. I will likely add the front structure to it, as well, since the front sub-frame and aprons are mostly shot. Since all of those panels would need to be replaced anyway, it seems to make more sense to have them all welded together on a jig that ensures the suspension pick-up points are all in the right place. I'll still need to do a bunch of internal bracing before removing the majority of the remaining body from the current floors, but this should cut my repair time by a significant margin while providing a more solid basis for the rest of the build.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/floor_zps5d8f180b.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/floor_zps5d8f180b.jpg.html)

[bil1024]

Cool!

[HIPO289]

Redi-Strip in rosselle Illinois will bring that upper body back to white metal inside and out. Well worth what they charge. Build x braces to stabelize then trim away most of what you will replace then get it dipped. Last year I had them do a 37 ford coupe with more surface rust than your fastback it came back clean, saved a car I didn't think should be built.

[ETriggs]

I would get the one piece floor. I just put in the front floor pans in my 57 Chevy and it was a pain in the butt. I should have just gotten the one piece floor and braced the interior solidly.

[Gumball]

Sure got my money's worth out of that old Sawz-all. My plan was to start cutting out rust until I was on solid ground with base metal to which I could weld patches. Well, one thing led to another and here's where I ended up...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20150131_111230460_HDR_zpsdukljisf.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20150131_111230460_HDR_zpsdukljisf.jpg.html)

Actually - all the parts in this picture are rotted beyond use, too. So, it looks like I'm going with Option 3 in my post above - I was able to salvage the rear inner bulkhead structure and another couple dozen panels after carefully drilling out hundreds of spotwelds. So, the plan is that I'll re-use those parts in the reconstruction of the body during the coming months.

[Gumball]

Phase one of the project is done - I've finished harvesting all of the salvagable metal from the car and it's all at Redistrip being dipped and/or media blasted in preparation for reconstruction. More to come...

[bil1024]

Cool! Can't wait to see some pics

[Gumball]

Long overdue for an update - I finally finished deconstructing the entire unibody and just took the next big step. I literally drilled out everyspot weld I could get to in order to save as many of the panels as possible, no matter how small, and resorted to the sawzall only when necessary. In the end, I had 38 pieces that were blasted, dipped, cleaned, and primed. I delivered those that will be incorporated into the rebuilt body to Thoroughbred GT in Canfield, OH yesterday for reconstruction - more to come in a couple months when the body returns to my bunker.

[TimC]

Sure got my money's worth out of that old Sawz-all. My plan was to start cutting out rust until I was on solid ground with base metal to which I could weld patches. Well, one thing led to another and here's where I ended up...


Here's what I almost expected to see

http://paulrdsharp.files.wordpress.com/2010/07/wooden-pallet-3736911.jpg
Can't wait to see the progression of this project. I would love to do something like this

[Gumball]

Tim,

It looked more like this...

Here's a pic taken from Thoroughbred GT's brochure. One of the benefits of using these guys for the restoration is that, unlike Dynacorn, they actually build each body here in the US and each is done to order. Best of all, they were more than willing to incorporate all of the sheetmetal that I was able to salvage from the Rustang once those pieces were blasted, dipped, and primed.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20150520_111141750_zpsaqs2kk6b.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20150520_111141750_zpsaqs2kk6b.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Here's a teaser pic.... not my car, but a few of the guys in the picture (as well as the shop) are involved in the reconstruction of the body, and you all might just recognize a couple of the others from a little hot rod company in California that made a big splash about 50 years ago - especially the guy third from the left.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Pete%20Brock%20and%20Jim%20Marietta%20from%20SAI_z psj6ya1fs2.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Pete%20Brock%20and%20Jim%20Marietta%20from%20SAI_z psj6ya1fs2.jpg.html)

Picture is from the company's facebook page - not my photo.

[Gumball]

Back in May, I delivered all of the salvageable metal to Thoroughbred GT in Canfield, OH to be reconstructed using as much new metal as needed. Thoroughbred GT is the only US builder of complete Mustang structures (they call them "skeletons") and fully skinned bodies (offered through their sister company - Buckeye Restorations). They took my SUV full of what would have looked to an uninitiated bystander as junk and built it into this......

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151003_152343474_zpsvwbe8ybk.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151003_152343474_zpsvwbe8ybk.jpg.html)

Unlike the other guys who sell a complete body on a pallet, these guys use a fair amount of US stamped parts and offer the flexibility to re-use an original car's metal - which was important to me. They also allow for customization... I specified lowered seat platforms (from a '69 Mustang), no upper dash structure, deletion of a bunch of tabs, brackets, etc... In the end, I'm very satisfied with their work. I saved some money by having them leave the 2K epoxy primer off - it just has a zinc etching spraybomb coating for now.

Next stop is the chassis shop where the roll cage will be fitted and installed. Before it goes there, I'm going to take care of a few things, including making the interior aluminum panels that will act as rear bulkheads, sealing off the trunk area from the interior, as those would be pretty hard to fabricate and install once the cage is in place.

Here are a few more pics -

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151003_152406907_HDR_zpsajsw2et1.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151003_152406907_HDR_zpsajsw2et1.jpg.html)

Those with sharp eyes will notice that the dash they use is for a GT or '66, I'll be filling that little drop-off where the center speedo goes as it will be getting just a flat "R" model panel.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151003_152420286_zpsjttqnkji.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151003_152420286_zpsjttqnkji.jpg.html)

New best friends....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151003_154820570_HDR_zpsjvffwi6v.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151003_154820570_HDR_zpsjvffwi6v.jpg.html)

Overall, the process was pretty seamless. They said it takes them about two weeks to actually do the build, which is all done in their proprietary jigs. The backlog meant a wait of just over four months. Nate and the crew were great to work with and I highly recommend them to anyone who is looking to reconstruct a car or to build a track-car from scratch.

[Gumball]

A few additional pics....

Convertible front torque boxes added in front wheel wells:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151002_093221452_HDR_zpshtze0etv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151002_093221452_HDR_zpshtze0etv.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151003_152332569_zpsrw6xyvsm.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151003_152332569_zpsrw6xyvsm.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

In getting the shell ready for it's trip to the chassis shop for a roll cage, I pulled off the front sheet metal this weekend. I'm very happy with their work. Most of the welds are spotwelds, but there are some places where they had to MIG things together. They did a good job of blending those welds in, though, and it's really a moot point on this car, since all the seams are going to be stitch welded.

Here are some pics of the front structure - it's nice to be working with clean metal for a change.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/Dr%20Front%20Clip%20Side%20View_zpsibxldjaz.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/Dr%20Front%20Clip%20Side%20View_zpsibxldjaz.jpg.ht ml)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/Pass%20Shock%20Tower%20Outer%20View_zpskjlgagxj.jp g (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/Pass%20Shock%20Tower%20Outer%20View_zpskjlgagxj.jp g.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/Pass%20Cowl%20Tank%20Top_zpssgm4ig11.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/Pass%20Cowl%20Tank%20Top_zpssgm4ig11.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/Front%20Three%20Quarter%20View%20of%20Unibody_zpsn 0a1qtmw.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/Front%20Three%20Quarter%20View%20of%20Unibody_zpsn 0a1qtmw.jpg.html)

And here are a few pics of what the roll cage will look like - this is from Cobra Automotive's racecar prep page, the company who will be supplying most of my brake, suspension, and other parts.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/Roll%20Cage%20Front%20Section%20at%20Driver%20Door _zpslf7elrer.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/Roll%20Cage%20Front%20Section%20at%20Driver%20Door _zpslf7elrer.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/Roll%20Cage%20Main%20Section_zpsajfzfnv3.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/Roll%20Cage%20Main%20Section_zpsajfzfnv3.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/Roll%20Cage%20Seat%20Mount%20System_zpsnxiqwmhr.jp g (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/Roll%20Cage%20Seat%20Mount%20System_zpsnxiqwmhr.jp g.html)

Looks like my car will be going in for the cage sometime in November, but I have quite a few small things to work on before that time... more to come.

[David Hodgkins]

That is going to be friggin' awesome. The body transformation is incredible.

:)

[GThompson]

I think that the only thing I would want changed on the cage is that I would have the tube at the bottom of the main hoop (the one that rests on top of the transmission/driveshaft tunnel) not bent, have it straight and also pushing the main hoop out against the body as tight as it can be.

This is an AWESOME project!!!

[Bhhughes]

This is completely amazing. Based on the initial pictures of the car, I had almost no faith in the viability of the project but I'm glad to admit that your progress is proving me wrong. Keep up the great work!

[Gumball]

I made another decision yesterday as I prepare for the cage installation - seats! The chassis guys need them in order to fabricate the mounts, as well as to make sure that there is room for the side bars to pass between the seats and the doors.

I'm fortunate enough to live near a few race shops, so I've been able to park my backside in a few different seats. I ended up ordering a pair (since I'll use the car for instructor rides) of Ultrashield VS seats. The driver's seat is a full containment - i.e., the "Halo" version with the additional padding for the sides of my head. The passenger seat is the same, except minus the upper head pads.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/VS%20Halo%20Driver%20Seat_zpsqszxamjc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/VS%20Halo%20Driver%20Seat_zpsqszxamjc.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Should be some interesting pics coming soon - I got the call from the chassis shop yesterday and they want me to deliver the shell to them next week. I guess I better hurry up with my pre-cage prep work - yikes!!!

[Gumball]

First pic from the chassis shop. I dropped the shell off there this past week and dropped by today to go over a few more details.



Before taking it in, I installed a bunch of the cross braces and the under-dash parts... steering column, pedals, wiper motor, etc. so that they'd know where to run the behind-the-dash cross tube and the triangulation to the firewall without putting a bar where I need to put some parts.



They already have the main tubes rough-cut and ready for bending, so I should have some better pictures soon.



Cage will be 1.75 x .095 4130 chro-mo, with some smaller tubing used for the non-critical triangulation.



http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151031_144236346_HDR_zpsrp82ozva.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151031_144236346_HDR_zpsrp82ozva.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

I dropped by the chassis shop today and took a few pictures.

Main hoop and rear legs tacked in place - they're going to add an additional pair of rear down tubes that will connect the top corners of the main hoop to the hump in the floor where it passes over the rear end.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094815575_HDR_zps70upuzwu.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094815575_HDR_zps70upuzwu.jpg.html)

Stitch welding on the front clip and suspension pick up points. Lots more of this to be done, still.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094734420_zpslokfu2jp.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094734420_zpslokfu2jp.jpg.html)

Passenger side sub-frame connector - passes through the floor to allow room for the side exit exhaust. Connects the side of the leaf spring torque box to the back end of the front sub-frame... basically extending it the full length of the car from nose to tail.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094912667_zpslcwzetif.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094912667_zpslcwzetif.jpg.html)

Rear-most down tube where it meets the floor - just above the rear leaf spring eye mount, which is reinforced with a plate shown here and with stitch welding the sub frame below. This is waiting for the rear cross bar (fuel cell protection) that will pass behind the vertical gusset to the far right of the picture - just behind the tail light panel.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094833247_HDR_zpsxsvdqe2c.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094833247_HDR_zpsxsvdqe2c.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Here are a few more pics -

Passenger side sub-frame connector where it passes through rear seat floor area and under seat platform. Just rough cut as of now - it will be smoothed out and perimeter welded eventually.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094857765_zpsbxftjfwt.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094857765_zpsbxftjfwt.jpg.html)

Outside front aprons showing stitch welding. Mostly done, but a few places need a little more attention.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094728454_zpsl1zuq2vb.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094728454_zpsl1zuq2vb.jpg.html)

Main hoop and down tube from another angle.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094838560_HDR_zpsprvykh76.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151107_094838560_HDR_zpsprvykh76.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Seats have arrived - here they are without the padding. Dropping these off with the chassis guys this weekend so that they can work on the mounts, too. I'm very happy with the workmanship of Ultrashield - would recommend these to anyone looking for a light and rigid seat.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151112_064704525_HDR_zpsikytqzzc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151112_064704525_HDR_zpsikytqzzc.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151112_064714246_zpsmcatqsye.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151112_064714246_zpsmcatqsye.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151112_064853320_HDR_zps9xi5pnxu.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151112_064853320_HDR_zps9xi5pnxu.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

More progress on the cage. I went over today to do the preliminary seat fitting so that they can work on the seat mounts. When I got there, I was surprised by how much more work they did on it this past week. The halo bar around the roof is in, as are the front down tubes, which pass through the dash. Also, most of the rear structure is in place, but the main hoop diagonal and cross bar (the ones that will be right behind the seat) are waiting to go in once the rest of the tubes have been welded completely.

Here are a bunch more pics....

Main rear structure - the kinked tube at the bottom will be gusseted to the plate that is welded to the trans tunnel and will be augmented by the primary cross tube that will be about half-way up the main hoop where the sides are slightly bent to conform to the body shape.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151114_102946418_HDR_zps8e7ipydv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151114_102946418_HDR_zps8e7ipydv.jpg.html)

Halo and front down tubes - this will get a diagonal roof bar in the near future, too.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103053751_HDR_zpspmxf3asf.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103053751_HDR_zpspmxf3asf.jpg.html)

Passenger side front down tube as it passes through the top of the dash.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103012623_HDR_zpshtu8ndnz.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103012623_HDR_zpshtu8ndnz.jpg.html)

Far back down tube and fuel cell protection bar.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103123079_HDR_zpspuadpfjc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103123079_HDR_zpspuadpfjc.jpg.html)

Overhead view of the rear structure through the back window opening.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103155096_zpsukjxorjl.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103155096_zpsukjxorjl.jpg.html)

Front down tube and mounting plate (note it extends up onto the inner rocker) at the point where the flat floor bends upward to the firewall.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103033957_zpsb77cnm7a.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103033957_zpsb77cnm7a.jpg.html)

Finished through-the-floor sub frame connector.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103019737_HDR_zpswhazmwp0.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103019737_HDR_zpswhazmwp0.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

And the view that I hope my competitors will see...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103147415_HDR_zpsvn6tg6pb.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151114_103147415_HDR_zpsvn6tg6pb.jpg.html)

[EZ$]

I think that you're just pulling our leg Chris. That can't possibly be the same car that you had pictured in your early posts! But seriously, it's coming together amazingly well. Before I started on the Cobra, I considered doing a 66 Mustang fastback. I know you mentioned that you're doing a solid axle, but in my research, I ran across these guys, mustangirs.com. They are building an IRS unit for all Mustangs that didn't offer IRS, and the design is based on the original design from a Ford engineer who was directed to put it together for use in the GT350 cars, but Shelby didn't see the advantage so the project was scrapped. The unit is not cheap, last I looked around 6k, but its designed as a direct bolt in. Something you might want to check out.
Rick

[Khartley]

I love seeing stuff like this! Its nice to be able to give such a beautiful car a second chance at life. Progress looks great too!!

[Gumball]

Cage work continues. This past weekend, we did the final seat fitment and they have started welding in the seat mount bars. Seats will have a front and rear cross bar (fronts are pictured below), which will be tied together by a pair of flat bars that will bolt to the sides of the seats - more to come on those when finished.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151125_114052103_HDR_zpsiirh43dp.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151125_114052103_HDR_zpsiirh43dp.jpg.html)

Rocker bar detail - there will be two additional door bars above this and all three will be tied together vertically...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151125_114107381_HDR_zpsc4c0uzw0.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151125_114107381_HDR_zpsc4c0uzw0.jpg.html)

Roof diagonal bar tucked up nice and high....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151125_115617649_HDR_zps8a436jhc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151125_115617649_HDR_zps8a436jhc.jpg.html)

Square tubing under the cowl lip adding reinforcement to the firewall - note the bolts for the export brace, which now thread directly into welded bungs in this square tube instead of using nuts....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151125_114012905_zpspt9wzgdn.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151125_114012905_zpspt9wzgdn.jpg.html)

Square tubing under the cowl lip is one-piece and runs through the aprons and is butt welded to the cowl side panel flanges....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20151125_114026851_HDR_zpshzjd7ivn.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20151125_114026851_HDR_zpshzjd7ivn.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Latest from the chassis shop - about all that's left are the door bars. We had a little as-built change for those, though. Since I'm going to use the R-model lexan windows, I'm not gutting the driver's door - which means there's less room for the door bars, as they have to fit between the door panel and the seat. The original plan was for a pair of bars, with the top being at the height of the dash bottom, but that put it way too close to my left elbow - not to mention the issue of getting out of the car fast. Instead, we're going to do an "X" that will extend up in the rear to the part of the main hoop where the shoulder cross bar starts - yet another triangulation point.

Here are the latest pictures......

Rear structure is just about done - just waiting for a few gussets to be added:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151204_110023145_HDR_zps6xpz9zxo.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151204_110023145_HDR_zps6xpz9zxo.jpg.html)

Behind-the-dash supports go from the dash cross bar to a plate that is welded onto the firewall directly behind the reinforced point where the export brace bolts to the cowl lip - effectively creates an "X" from the cage to the tops of the shock towers without actually passing through the firewall:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151204_105929909_zpseciolz7u.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151204_105929909_zpseciolz7u.jpg.html)

Detailed view of the seat mounts - these allow for two inches of adjustment in both directions and the holes in the side of the seats allow the rears to be tilted for rake:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151204_110015403_HDR_zpshkf3j7xi.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151204_110015403_HDR_zpshkf3j7xi.jpg.html)

Overhead view of a rather busy - and stiff - floorpan area:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151204_105917272_HDR_zpsuxtcygoy.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151204_105917272_HDR_zpsuxtcygoy.jpg.html)

There is one of these on each side - they tie together the front subframe, rocker, and torque box - located right below the front cage down tube pad... they'll act as nice jacking points, too:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151204_105956974_zps1pvxtncc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151204_105956974_zps1pvxtncc.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

The chassis guys needed me to come back this morning for fit one more thing, so I took a few additional pictures.......

Gussets at the top corners of the windshield - there are similar ones at the rear of the side window area between the top halo and the main hoop:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100604005_HDR_zps5jn4cvva.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100604005_HDR_zps5jn4cvva.jpg.html)

Seat position:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100556395_zps2i3rbvjv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100556395_zps2i3rbvjv.jpg.html)

Detail of the shoulder harness strap locators and the tabs that will be used for the seatback brace:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100629658_zpsijiczim6.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100629658_zpsijiczim6.jpg.html)

View through the passenger door opening - the tube laying on the bottom is one of the side bars that hasn't been put up into place yet:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100647509_HDR_zpsrwdforiw.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100647509_HDR_zpsrwdforiw.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

One more angle of the seat mount and relation of the containment portion of the seat with the upper tubes....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100537327_zpsg34lmn9y.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151205_100537327_zpsg34lmn9y.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

The car came home today from the chassis shop and the cage looks great. It's still a work-in-process, with lots more metal work to do, but I'm going to hold off on that while I do a bit more planning and get some parts fitted. Next up is to finalize the seat installation (including back braces) and get the steering box in so I can measure for the collapsible column.

Here are a bunch of pics once it got it settled in the work bay where it'll reside for the next few months.

Side impact bars in "X" pattern provides a bit more room for my left elbow and allows better entry/exit:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151215_202807679_HDR_zpsofbifk2i.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151215_202807679_HDR_zpsofbifk2i.jpg.html)

Front down tubes pass through dash and pick-up the under-dash cross bar (with connections to firewall), rocker bars, and side impact bars:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151215_202331249_zpsvmw8i8pj.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151215_202331249_zpsvmw8i8pj.jpg.html)

The chassis shop does quite a few pro-touring and drag race cars that have sheet metal interiors - these bulkhead panels are steel, not aluminum:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151215_202824607_HDR_zpswc8mnzn1.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151215_202824607_HDR_zpswc8mnzn1.jpg.html)

Fitment of the side impact bars and the driver's seat:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151215_154856003_zps9bk47k5j.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151215_154856003_zps9bk47k5j.jpg.html)

A very busy interior:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rustang/IMG_20151215_202321550_zpsik2saocg.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rustang/IMG_20151215_202321550_zpsik2saocg.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Well, the shop is pretty full due to winter storage (7 cars, 2 trailers, and an airplane), so I'm in "gatherer" mode. Here's the newest addition to my shelf....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG950823_zps71ptuyid.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG950823_zps71ptuyid.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

A little more detail on the latest addition to the project. It's a magnesium case Jerico 4-speed with a Hightower "direct connect" shifter. This is a non-synchro, dog ring box that allows for clutchless shifts. The Hightower shifter requires a special case, with the sliders - which are what performs the shift function - protruding through the rear of the case and tail housing. The case also has the traditional shifter side posts, which aren't drilled during the milling process, machined down - note the lighter spots on the side of the case where the shift linkage usually sticks out. The shift sliders are then connected to the shifter using adjustable rods with spherical ends. The inner workings have been REM polished, too, which is a process that applies a super thin surface treatment that makes everything look like it's highly polished or chrome plated - the result is supposed to be longer life, smoother shifts, and reduced NVH. Finally, the top cover is plumbed for a cooler return line, which sprays the cooled lubricant down on second and third gears.

I haven't decided on the clutch, but it will likely be a multi-disc Tilton or Quarter Master with a flex plate instead of a flywheel. Going to have to do a bit more research on that, though.

A few more pics...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Driver%20Side_zpsqzb2y2cl.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Driver%20Side_zpsqzb2y2cl.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Oil%20Cooler%20Compatible%20Top%20Cover_zpshqx9kw6 z.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Oil%20Cooler%20Compatible%20Top%20Cover_zpshqx9kw6 z.jpg.html)

I couldn't resist the shift knob - about as purposeful as the rest of the car will be...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Shift%20Knob%20Side%20View_zpsavtwnfpn.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Shift%20Knob%20Side%20View_zpsavtwnfpn.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Shift%20Knob%20Top%20View_zpsv2sb9lgv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Shift%20Knob%20Top%20View_zpsv2sb9lgv.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

... and a pic of the guts. What looks like wear or chips on the teeth are reflections / shadowing of a bad picture.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_0812_zpsr9jmqrdp.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_0812_zpsr9jmqrdp.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Something wicked this way comes.....

I figured that since I have the transmission, it sure would be nice to have an engine to do some of the mock-up. Well, it seems that I may have a line on something very interesting.... watch this space for more developments in the near future.]

EDITED - ... or maybe not - looks like the deal is either on-hold or has fallen through. I guess that my search for motive force will have to continue.

[David Hodgkins]

Holy mother of mercy what a car.

Wow.

The cage is insane!

What are your plans for racing? You're not building this up just to autocross I assume?

:)

[Gumball]

David,

It's being build primarily for NASA time trial and as an HPDE car, but I'm also planning on getting back into the wheel-to-wheel biz and do a little vintage racing.

And, I won't rule out the occasional ice cream run or local cruise night, just to rattle some windows and set-off some car alarms.

[jkrueger]

Awesome build! Keep up the good work and updates.

[Gumball]

As I type this, somewhere between here and Michigan there's a truck with something on it... just.... for.... the.... Rustang....

Pics and details when my new Dart iron eagle block arrives this week.

[Jacob McCrea]

This is too cool.

[Gumball]

Block shipping was delayed, so the least I could do was to go out and order more swag. So, here comes a Quick Time bellhousing, Ron Morris adjustable engine mounts, and a trans isolator mount - all of which will enable me to get the block and transmission connected and in the car for some test fitting.

[Gumball]

Some good progress recently, even if I still don't have much room to work in my shop due to all the cars in storage. So, the parts hoarding continues...


Something finally arrived from Detroit -

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Crate_zpsucd5dmar.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Crate_zpsucd5dmar.jpg.html)

With all five mains having 4-bolt caps, my crank should remain in place at 8,000 rpm...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Iron%20Eagle%20Block_zps91rfmqu2.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Iron%20Eagle%20Block_zps91rfmqu2.jpg.html)

Now that I have the block and transmission, I had to get the bellhousing (motor and trans mounts, too) so I can put it all together and mock it up in the car at some point when things clear out...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Bellhousing_zpsbdvgbjjt.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Bellhousing_zpsbdvgbjjt.jpg.html)

The real jewels of recent arrivals, though, have to be the Woodward Fabrication collapsible steering column, associated brackets and bearings, and the quick-release for the steering wheel...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Woodward%20column_zpsth90lift.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Woodward%20column_zpsth90lift.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Woodward%20Components_zpsnyy88znt.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Woodward%20Components_zpsnyy88znt.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

I've also spent some time contemplating what gauges to use and how to do the layout. For sure, the main gauges will be housed in a plain sheetmetal panel like the original R-models had back in the day, but most of the gauges I considered just looked too modern. When the body was reconstructed, we used a '65 GT / '66 style dash with the dip in the center (those cars had a large round speedo in the center with two gauges on either side - as opposed to the long, rectangular sweep speedo on the non-GT '65s). Because the Jerico transmission doesn't provide for a speedometer connection and since the car is going to be used on the street only occasionally to go to the local cruise night or such, I'm planning on using a temporary mount for my phone and take advantage of one of the GPS speed aps. This frees up the instrument panel for an oversized tach front-and-center. A five-inch tach was too large, though, and I didn't like the smaller 3 3/8" ones (seems to be a standard size), I kept going back to the gauges in my FFR roadster. Well, I contacted Nisonger and found that they are now selling electric gauges with full 270 degree sweeps - powered by stepper motors for better control and reliability. They made me a great deal on a set by trading out the standard speedo for a couple extra oil temp gauges and I now have a set of Smiths on their way.

Here's a mock-up of the instrument panel. The main panel will have the four-inch tach in the center, flanked by fuel level, water temp, oil pressure, and volts. To each side at the top will be LED lights for shift (yellow) and low oil pressure (red) and to the bottom I'll use some original R-model style panel lights for turn indicator (single green) and no-charge (red). Also, there will be a secondary panel old-school style below the dash where three oil temp gauges will reside for engine, transmission, and differential...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Instrument%20Panel%20Templates_Primary%20and%20Cen ter%20Cluster_zpsh1xxtkus.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Instrument%20Panel%20Templates_Primary%20and%20Cen ter%20Cluster_zpsh1xxtkus.jpg.html)

Since I had the heavy card-stock out, I also made templates for the covers that go over the holes in the quarter panels that would normally house the air vents. These will be made of .040 or so aluminum, but will have to be run through a roller as they need a compound curve...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Pass%20Qtr%20Vent%20Cover_zpsprj5qaao.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Pass%20Qtr%20Vent%20Cover_zpsprj5qaao.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Can't beat this for a classic tach...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20140511_140958465_zps7f65813c.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20140511_140958465_zps7f65813c.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

More swag -

Yesterday, the Fays2 watts link arrived. This is a great bolt-on part that provides positive location of the rear axle and allows the leaf springs to do their job without sideways forces.

Here's a pic of the main cage of the assembly during test-fit on my car - pic taken from the rear of the car looking forward. The cage mounts to the subframe rails, as well as the trunk floor lip where the fuel tank mounts.....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Watts%20Link_zpscat5gfgv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Watts%20Link_zpscat5gfgv.jpg.html)

This is a file pic of the assembled watts link showing the bellcrank / prop shaft that mounts in the center of the cage - note the serrated vertical adjustment in the cage that allows for changes due to ride height. The flat plate on the right goes under the leaf spring and is secured with the rear axle housing "U" bolts and the sleeve on the right wraps around the axle tube - similar to the "banana bracket" on the FFR three-link suspension.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Watts%20Link%20Front%20View%20Assembled_zpspojly6y c.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Watts%20Link%20Front%20View%20Assembled_zpspojly6y c.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Gauges came - here they are in the layout that that I'll be using...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Primary%20Gauges_zpsdohjofds.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Primary%20Gauges_zpsdohjofds.jpg.html)

These will be in a secondary cluster under the dash as shown mocked-up in post #58 above...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Oil%20Temps_zpssbvhd6s0.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Oil%20Temps_zpssbvhd6s0.jpg.html)

[avgjoe]

I understand the gauges were made in the UK, but centigrade? Similar to the originals? I know its just a number, but???? Personally, it would drive me nuts; at least that's what I think initially. After a few years I'd probably get used to it.

Otherwise great build. Can't wait to see it at the track.

[Gumball]

Looking for thoughts on an electrical control panel. I mocked it up today using some heavy stock cardboard and was able to actually test-fit some switches just to see how it'll look. Since the seat is lowered and pushed back quite a few inches, my hands will be at least 8" away from the dash when I'm belted into the car. That means that I can't use a traditional ignition switch - at least not to work the starter. I also need an accessible place for the fire system pull handle and the master kill switch. The fire system will have a second pull handle (external) and the kill switch will also be hooked to an external pull handle so it can be operated both from inside and outside the car.

Then there's the switches - lots and lots of switches. I had a bunch of the standard FFR toggles left over from my build, so I used them for this mock-up. My plan is to use metal post toggles from Aircraft Spruce or some other supplier of ruggedized electrics for the final version. I'm thinking of using the stock Mustang ignition switch just to activate the coil - i.e., a "run" switch - and then have a toggle to operate the starter (so I can re-fire it after killing it as I get used to the hair-trigger clutch). I'll also need toggles for the MSD box selector (an "A" and a "B") as I'll be running two boxes, a cooling fan override, pumps for the diff and trans coolers, fuel pump(s), and turn signals (I want it to be laughably street legal). And, it'll have headlights, but I'll use a stock Mustang switch in the original dash location for those.

Finally, this seems to be a good place to mount the rear brake bias valve, since the line will run through the cockpit instead of underneath the car.

The mock-up is a bit too tall... I can probably drop it a 1/2" or so, but it will need to be fairly high due to the depth of the master kill switch. In order to make it easy to maintain, it will have a flat bottom mounting plate that is bolted to the trans tunnel with four studs coming up from underneath, which will then also hold down the separate top, which is sort of a hat design with a kick-up to position the fire system pull handle. And, it'll need a bracket of some sort at the rear to hold the cable housing for the remote pull for the master kill switch.

Thoughts, suggestions, and ideas are welcome....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Control%20Box%20Mock%20Up%20Driver_zpsuxz9jydg.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Control%20Box%20Mock%20Up%20Driver_zpsuxz9jydg.jpg .html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Control%20Box%20Mock%20Up%20Pass_zpsdq9zffu5.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Control%20Box%20Mock%20Up%20Pass_zpsdq9zffu5.jpg.h tml)

[Gumball]

I finally replaced the wooden dolly with a proper body cart. I found this at Summit for not much more than what it would have cost me to buy the steel and casters and build my own. It came bare, but I cleaned it and coated it with some of Eastwood's 2-part spray paint, which seems to provide a nice and durable finish. The rockers are now 24" above the floor, providing plenty of work space underneath while keeping the rest of the car in reach. It will end up in a rotisserie soon, but this will allow it to be somewhat more mobile for now.

The uprights fit into the front lower control arm brackets and the front leaf spring eye bolt pockets:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Cart%202_zpsbdyrq306.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Cart%202_zpsbdyrq306.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Cart%203_zpsxmg8evcn.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Cart%203_zpsxmg8evcn.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Cart%201_zpsddzhhgff.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Cart%201_zpsddzhhgff.jpg.html)

[jkrueger]

Some thoughts on the switch panel from a racer's perspective. Keep any switch you might want to use while on track to close to your line of sight so you don't have to glance to far to activate a switch. Having to turn your head an look down that low might be a distraction while racing.

Just a thought.

Love your build. It is going to be an awesome car when you are done!

JC

[Gumball]

As spring weather settles in and rains wash away the salt on the roads, space is finally beginning to open up at my shop. This past week, two of my friends pulled their cars out from a long winter's rest and I was able to move the Mustang a bit, do some early spring cleaning, and set-up a few sets of wire rack shelves to hold all of the parts I've been accumulating. There are still a few cars to go, but once they're gone I'll be able to dig into the final stages of metal work on the shell.

In the mean time, I just placed an absolutely huge order for parts with Cobra Automotive - suspension, brakes, rear end, lexan windows, body parts, etc... and should be filling those shelves soon.

Included in the order is a set of these... capable of making music from a Ford small block at 8k rpm:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Headers_Cobra%20Automotive%20Race_zpsskhrdn5e.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Headers_Cobra%20Automotive%20Race_zpsskhrdn5e.jpg. html)

[Gumball]

Almost forgot... I also ordered what has to be one of the coolest oil pans made for a Ford engine. This is designed to fit blocks with 4-bolt mains at both the front and rear, as well as the three down the center.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Cobra%20Automotive%20Custom%20Oil%20Pan_zps8rbu4od l.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Cobra%20Automotive%20Custom%20Oil%20Pan_zps8rbu4od l.jpg.html)

[Real time recon]

WOW ! Keeping my eye on this one ;)

[Gumball]

I made another decision this week - instead of a four barrel, I decided to go with a Weber carburetor system. I know this isn't legal for B-Production vintage racing, but I couldn't resist. Since my primary use for the car is going to be open track days and NASA time trial, I'm not as constrained by the rules as if I were building it strictly for wheel-to-wheel racing. Plus, since the engine is really a fungible item - my focus on being within the rules is more on the chassis itself, rather than those things that can be viewed as wear items or that can and will be changed out depending on the intended use of the car.

Anyway, here's a file photo of my recent purchase... keen eyes will notice that this is a 351 version, but other than the slightly different intake, mine will be substantially the same, including the center actuator for the throttles.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/351wweb72_zpsprz4dagb.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/351wweb72_zpsprz4dagb.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

It's been a few weeks since my last update, but I have great progress to report. I've been off the forum for a few days recently to make a 2000 mile round trip to the east coast to pick up hundreds (literally) of parts. Amazingly, I was able to fit everything inside my current-generation 4Runner, without resorting to the hitch cargo basket or a last-minute U-Haul trailer. I did the trip alone - both to keep the passenger seat open for parts and my backpack full of fresh clothes - so it made for lots of driving over the course of three days. For me, road trips like this - combining parts pick-up, intelligence gathering / learning, and friendship building - are one of the best parts of a car project.

More pics to follow as I unpack everything - but here's a rundown of the trip.

The journey began at 4 am last Thursday as I headed towards Pittsburgh, where I hit Primanti's for one of their huge sandwiches (meat, fries, and coleslaw all served together on bread) while on my way to the first parts stop... Tony D. Branda Shelby & Mustang Parts in Altoona, PA, where I picked up a few R-model specific parts, as well as a few NOS Mustang pieces.

The rest of the day was spent driving from there to the hotel in Wallingford, CT, where I hit these guys first thing the next morning....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160429_084812597_zpsmcxsrp6z.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160429_084812597_zpsmcxsrp6z.jpg.html)

I pretty much went through the Cobra Automotive parts catalog and ordered one of everything - including complete front and rear suspension kits, front and rear brake kits, body parts like the R-model rear window and door windows/frames, as well as quite a few other things.

Cobra Automotive is a pretty cool place and like a candy store if you're into original Shelby cars - no need to ask "is it real" there, that's for sure. Here's a pic that includes an original owner street 427 Cobra and Dan Gurney's Mustang race car (blue fastback in the background).

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160429_100400279_HDR_zpsbz2mbb2n.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160429_100400279_HDR_zpsbz2mbb2n.jpg.html)

Next stop that morning was about 20 minutes down the road to North Branford, CT - home to Jim Inglese, the Weber carb guru who put together my intake system.

After that, it was a quick dash back west, where I stopped at around the 1/2 way point of the return trip just over the PA border into OH. This made for an easy trip up to Canton, MI to visit National Parts Depot (NPD) for another huge load of parts - mostly all of the small bits and pieces that are necessary for a functioning car. While there, I made a short detour a few miles up the road to take a drive around the River Rouge plant. While the area and infrastructure is a bit more worn than what I've seen in the many books I have of the factory, it was still an amazing place - both for it's sheer size and for the thought of what it has done for society (mobility for a country and jobs for multitudes for the past 99 years).

Rouge Complex office building....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160430_123643298_zpsv0n55ekd.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160430_123643298_zpsv0n55ekd.jpg.html)

Sign outside of the main complex entrance on Miller Road.....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160430_122938960_zps7vscgxib.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160430_122938960_zps7vscgxib.jpg.html)

Coke ovens from a distance along Miller Road....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160430_122448072_zpsrjruemga.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160430_122448072_zpsrjruemga.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Opened the first box from my "Back East Parts Run" tonight - here's the first taste......

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/My%20Carbs_zpsbrdg3py6.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/My%20Carbs_zpsbrdg3py6.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

I finally finished inventorying my new pile of parts and have been busy organizing everything by sub-assembly and finding shelf space that makes sense (so I don't end up buying multiple parts down the road).

Part of the process involved laying out all of the parts that make up the bulk orders (brake kits, suspension kits, etc...) to ensure that all the small piece parts were there. I was going to take pictures of everything, but since it all looks like the parts that are pictured on the Cobra Automotive website, I decided to use their stock photos - especially since they are laid out much prettier than my unboxing chaos.

The full load includes lots more than what is pictured below, although so much of that is small piece parts that it didn't make sense to take pics - but I thought you guys would enjoy seeing this stuff.

Front suspension kit - lowering templates for the upper control arms are 1 1/4" for mine...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Front%20Suspension%20Kit_zpsljgwpzcc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Front%20Suspension%20Kit_zpsljgwpzcc.jpg.html)

Front brake kit - rotors are 12" x 1 1/8" with aluminum hats and calipers are vintage Lincoln / full-size Ford parts....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Front%20Brakes_zpssnetboea.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Front%20Brakes_zpssnetboea.jpg.html)

Front brake cooling kit...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Front%20Brake%20Cooling_zps6ihwy8yp.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Front%20Brake%20Cooling_zps6ihwy8yp.jpg.html)

Rear suspension - this set-up doesn't use shackles; instead it has sliders (the things to the right and left of the bushings in the front center of the pic) that weld to the subframe and allow the rear of the leaf springs to articulate....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rear%20Suspension%20Kit_zpssdh1rlik.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rear%20Suspension%20Kit_zpssdh1rlik.jpg.html)

Rear brakes - 11" x 2 1/2" drums that will mount to the end of the Moser 31 spline axles in a stock-appearing housing (but with 3" tubes and the large Torino bearings)....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rear%20Brakes_zpszjzcsvqm.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rear%20Brakes_zpszjzcsvqm.jpg.html)

Rear brake cooling - these ducts require drilling the backing plate to allow air in and out with the scoops mounting to the axle tubes....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rear%20Brake%20Cooling_zpsihxveliq.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rear%20Brake%20Cooling_zpsihxveliq.jpg.html)

Windows - in addition to the R-model rear window with all of the mounting hardware (including the original style 'horse shoe' frame), I added the aluminum window frames and pull-up Lexan windows....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Door%20Windows%20and%20Frames_zpsndsvymlx.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Door%20Windows%20and%20Frames_zpsndsvymlx.jpg.html )

Photo credit for the pics in this post - Cobra Automotive

[Gumball]

It's been a while since the last update - I've been working on some basic metal work things, so not too much progress to report. However, I did just get this.... a poly mock-up block. It's going to be way easier to do all of the measuring and cutting using this, rather than the 190-ish pound Dart block. Even with the bellhousing in place, it can be lifted by one hand and moved into position.

I gotta say - this would have been a great thing to have during my FFR build - and this one may be available for loan once I'm done with it this summer on the current project. For those of you who want one of your own - they're made by a company called P-Ayr and sold through Summit and other outlets. I got mine for $349 from Summit with free shipping.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Mock%20Up%20Block%203_zpsesba4j48.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Mock%20Up%20Block%203_zpsesba4j48.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Mock%20Up%20Block%202_zpsfw9esebb.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Mock%20Up%20Block%202_zpsfw9esebb.jpg.html)

I'm using adjustable engine mounts so that I can get the engine as far back and has far to the passenger side as possible to assist with corner weighting. Once everything is where I want it, I'll tack these so that there is no movement later.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Mock%20Up%20Block%201_zpsniuqv6ty.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Mock%20Up%20Block%201_zpsniuqv6ty.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Mock%20Up%20Block%201_zpsbfrpr5tg.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Mock%20Up%20Block%201_zpsbfrpr5tg.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

I flipped the engine mount plates (the ones that attach to the block) and was able to move the engine back an additional two inches! I'll need to get the headers installed and then move everything to get the best compromise of fore/aft positioning from a clearance perspective. Then, I'll install the transmission and figure out where the tunnel needs to be modified for the shifter hole.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160601_101429629_zpsywsscp0s.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160601_101429629_zpsywsscp0s.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160601_101450503_HDR_zpspvdghzyo.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160601_101450503_HDR_zpspvdghzyo.jpg.html)

Check out the difference between the below pic and the one in the post above showing the bellhousing-to-firewall clearance.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160601_101436690_zpstjn9hkxc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160601_101436690_zpstjn9hkxc.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Now that I have the poly engine block, I can get down to work on the mechanical mock-up. First up is fitting the transmission and making room for the Hightower "direct connect" shifter on the Jerico. This shifter has a rather bulky box that mounts to the rear left of the tailhousing and moves the shift lever mounting point a couple inches to the left and a similar amount to the rear of the original location. That movement, combined with the bulk of the shifter mechanism housing, means that the transmission tunnel needs to be modified a bit.

Before I could do any cutting, I had to get the transmission into place and mark the floor. This was made possible by a quick visit to my local Harbor Freight, where I scored a transmission jack both on sale and with one of their ubiquitous 20% off coupons.....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Jack_zpsedq9vntu.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Jack_zpsedq9vntu.jpg.html)

This shot of the transmission in place shows just how much interference there is due to the shifter mechanism......

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Transmission%20Test%20Fit_zpshxm0l6kc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Transmission%20Test%20Fit_zpshxm0l6kc.jpg.html)

And here is the aftermath of the cutting wheel surgery......

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Shifter%20Hole_zpsec6o8m1d.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Shifter%20Hole_zpsec6o8m1d.jpg.html)

The hole will be cleaned up and I'll make a folded sheetmetal stand-off that will box the area out and move the shifter hole over so that the lever mount is centered in the new hole. In the test-fit pic (second above), you can see that the boot mounting ring with captured nuts is still in place, but as shown in the pic above, I used a spot weld cutter and removed it so that I can relocate it and make use of it later.

Here's what the finished product will look like (credit to Cobra Automotive - this is one of their cars) .....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Trans%20Tunnel%20Reinforcement_zpssy1ttkxw.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Trans%20Tunnel%20Reinforcement_zpssy1ttkxw.jpg.htm l)

[Real time recon]

Gumball
Do you fix computers ? Mine's messed up from drooling

[Gumball]

Here's another pic of what the finished shift mechanism bump-out will look like. My plan is to make this out of a single piece of sheetmetal and bend it into shape before welding a couple of joints and then welding it to the floor pan.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Shifter%20Hole%20Relocate_zpszfnrjdhp.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Shifter%20Hole%20Relocate_zpszfnrjdhp.jpg.html)
also courtesy of Cobra Automotive....

[Gumball]

It's been over a month since my last update - work, heat/humidity, family stuff, and just driving my FFR have kept me from doing too much on the Mustang project for the past few weeks. But, this past week it went back to the cage guys for a little more work, including installation of the rear suspension mounting points (sliders for the rear mounts of the leaf springs.... yes, leaf springs - YIKES!).

I also made a trip the other day to Road America to check out some of the cars at the Brian Redman vintage races - always a great show. There were at least a half-dozen '65 / '66 Mustangs there, so lots for me to see and compare. Unfortunately, this trip will also add somewhat to my bill at the cage place, as I have a few additional things that I want to incorporate now.

Here's a shot of it before heading in for the additional work - talk about light, I couldn't even keep it on the trailer without some heavy duty ratchet straps.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Return%20Trip_zpsgcezo9vr.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Return%20Trip_zpsgcezo9vr.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

I didn't mention this before, but I had an interesting problem with the transmission and bellhousing - showing that not just FFRs suffer from the "some-assembly-required" issue.

The bellhousing is made to fit a Ford smallblock - so no problem with bolting it to my Dart 302. It also has the proper bolt pattern on the back end for a Jerico transmission - which you would think would be no problem. Well, of course, it couldn't be that easy. It turns out that the bore hole in the bellhousing was sized for a GM front bearing retainer (on the transmission), which is 4.67" as opposed to a Ford bearing retainer, which is 4.85". And, also of course, my transmission has the (proper) Ford bearing retainer. No big deal - either replace the bearing retainer, chuck it in the lathe and cut a little off of it, or open the hole in the bellhousing. I went with the last option using a friend's machine shop and one of his CNC machines to make sure that everything stays in alignment... problem solved.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Trans%20and%20Bellhousing%20together_zpssujlx8x1.j pg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Trans%20and%20Bellhousing%20together_zpssujlx8x1.j pg.html)

[AC Bill]

Extremely impressed with what you have done. I love the obsession you have for this build, as that's what it takes to make something really awesome.

Hopefully you persevere till the finish, and don't burn out from all the work involved..:)

[Gumball]

After six weeks at the chassis place, it's back in my shop. Here are a few pics I took during the most recent round of cage and suspension work, which included.....

Finishing up a few of the hard-to-get-at welds;
Adding removable window nets (driver and passenger);
Tabs on the cage for external access to the fire suppression activation and emergency shut-off switch;
Jacking points under the rocker reinforcements;
Tow hooks front and rear - including an incorporated jacking point at the front tow hook location;
Installation of the sliders for the leaf spring rear mounting point (instead of shackles);
Gusseting - under the dash and at the cage / subframe intersection;
Completion of the "exoskeleton" for the cowl - 3/4" square tube surround that ties the cowl into the cage / "A" pillars and the front suspension;
Firewall mounting point for the lower steering shaft bearing mount; and
Recess in the under-dash crossbar for additional steering column clearance

Firewall work for steering shaft bearing....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160816_180211590_zpscsbruod7.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160816_180211590_zpscsbruod7.jpg.html)

Upper rod for driver's window net....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160816_180312069_zpsunuyirql.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160816_180312069_zpsunuyirql.jpg.html)

Passenger side slider located to rear of subframe below trunk floor opening - not the best pic... more to come on this....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160816_180035831_zpsp6s97686.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160816_180035831_zpsp6s97686.jpg.html)

Cowl reinforcement.....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20160816_175939404_HDR_zpswaamywp9.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20160816_175939404_HDR_zpswaamywp9.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Some additional pics of the latest work.......

I made this rear tow eye that bolts to the rear bumper mount area out of 1/4" plate steel and tacked it together before letting the real welder (i.e., a guy with skill) do the final welding, since it may be used to haul my butt out of a bad spot someday:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rear%20Tow%20Eye_zpsnwm6zsg1.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rear%20Tow%20Eye_zpsnwm6zsg1.jpg.html)

Here are a couple pics of the front tow eye that includes a jacking point - I also made this one following a tried-and-true formula, but delivered it to the chassis guy only tacked together for him to do the finish welding, including welding it to the car. It'll protrude about 3" out from below the R-model fiberglass valance that will be on the front when done and the thick-walled tube protruding downward will serve as a front center jacking point - the eye and the tube are welded to a piece of plate steel, which in turn is welded to the radiator core support:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Front%20Tow%20Eye%20Side%20View_zpskb9chznv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Front%20Tow%20Eye%20Side%20View_zpskb9chznv.jpg.ht ml)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Front%20Tow%20Eye%20Front%20View_zpsnssdzvoz.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Front%20Tow%20Eye%20Front%20View_zpsnssdzvoz.jpg.h tml)

This one shows the two tabs where I'll mount the "T" handles for the fire suppression system and the emergency cut-off switch - the cut-off switch will actually be mounted on the control panel on the trans tunnel between the seats, but there will be a cable that will run to this point for external access by a corner worker:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/T%20Handle%20Tabs_zpszzro9aga.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/T%20Handle%20Tabs_zpszzro9aga.jpg.html)

Here is a shot of the additional triangulation that we added to the cage from the "A" pillar main tube down at a 45* angle to a pad that is mounted at the point where the toe board meets the firewall - on the outside of this is the upper point for the convertible torque boxes that were also added during the body reconstruction:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Ankle%20Protection_zpsmlzpwbtv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Ankle%20Protection_zpsmlzpwbtv.jpg.html)

Here's a much better picture of the leaf spring rear mount - these sliders replace the OEM shackle (which would have mounted to the large tube directly above the slider) and allow the springs to run on a set of bearings in the tracks above and below the slots:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Slider%201_zpsneptonge.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Slider%201_zpsneptonge.jpg.html)

This shows the mounting points for the lower window net rod - due to the odd shape of the opening, I had RJS make a set of trapezoidal nets that are secured by these tubes with a pin on the bottom and by a spring-loaded rod at the top (as shown in one of the pics in the post before this):

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Lower%20Mounts%20for%20Window%20Net_zpskl5tt2ka.jp g (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Lower%20Mounts%20for%20Window%20Net_zpskl5tt2ka.jp g.html)

[Gumball]

Just a few more pics......

This is the bracing and gussets for the under dash tube - the angled braces mount to the pad that is directly behind the "export brace" mounting point inside the engine compartment - effectively connecting the cage to the front shock towers through the firewall - but through what is really a bolt-on application of the "export brace" - also, you can see one of the under dash tube gussets that connect that tube to the lower edge of the dash:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Under%20Dash%20Bar%20Supports%20to%20Firewall_zps1 jdn3stk.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Under%20Dash%20Bar%20Supports%20to%20Firewall_zps1 jdn3stk.jpg.html)

Inside of the firewall showing one of the sides of the mounting flange for the lower steering shaft:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Steering%20shaft%20bearing%20retainer%20at%20firew all_zpsq4drlzce.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Steering%20shaft%20bearing%20retainer%20at%20firew all_zpsq4drlzce.jpg.html)

And here's an overall pic of the interior as it stands now:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Full%20Cage%20View%20with%20Seats_zpsiazodiwa.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Full%20Cage%20View%20with%20Seats_zpsiazodiwa.jpg. html)

[Gumball]

And a few more photos showing details of the recent work.

Here is the jack bung on the underside of the reinforcement that runs sideways between the front subframe and rocker - this reinforcement ties those two areas to the floor, the front torque box, and the cage (since the front "A" pillar tube pad sits right above this on the other side of the floor pan) - this bung, which still needs final shaping, will hook onto a hydraulic jack pad and will be parallel to the ground when the jack is fully raised, lifting both the front and rear wheels on the side that is jacked up.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/1%20Underside%20Jack%20Point_zps5cvgrba5.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/1%20Underside%20Jack%20Point_zps5cvgrba5.jpg.html)

This shows the detail of one of the three gussets that attach the lower dash lip to the cage tube that runs behind the dash - the lower part of the dash was originally attached at only the sides, but those attachment points were removed to make room for the cage tubing. You can also see the full welding that was done to the front lower strut rod supports where they meet the radiator core support.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/1%20Under%20Dash%20Gusset%20Detail_zpseocqhyeq.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/1%20Under%20Dash%20Gusset%20Detail_zpseocqhyeq.jpg .html)

And finally, one more shot of the front tow eye / jack point... this time from the engine compartment side showing how it's welded to the radiator core support.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Front%20Tow%20Eye%20from%20Engine%20Bay_zpsil2ro2n o.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Front%20Tow%20Eye%20from%20Engine%20Bay_zpsil2ro2n o.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about using the Wilwood brake and clutch pedal system with their Tru-Bar balance set up. Since I will be installing a hydraulic clutch, this seems a logical next step.

Thoughts and experiences with the Wilwood stuff from those of you who are using it in your FFR or other cars are appreciated.

[Gumball]

This ought to keep things cool - you'd think I'm planning on an engine that generates a bit of heat.

Still need to trim the recessed area of the core support to make the opening match the oversized area of this radiator, but this gives an idea of how it will fit.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20161005_191440108_zpsm445n2fa.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20161005_191440108_zpsm445n2fa.jpg.html)

These fans should move a bit of air... about 3200 cfm, in fact:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20161005_191503033_HDR_zpsdu0jfopu.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20161005_191503033_HDR_zpsdu0jfopu.jpg.html)

The black rectangles at the bottom are rubber flaps over cut-outs that relieve pressure in the shroud at higher speeds - oh, say like around 150 mph on a couple of the longer stretches at Road America:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20161005_191545024_HDR_zpskxt5xyei.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20161005_191545024_HDR_zpskxt5xyei.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

As an alternative to the Wilwood pedal assembly mentioned above in post #85, here's something a friend just bought for his Mustang and brought by my shop for me to do a test fit - it's a dual master cylinder assembly by CNC with an adjustable balance bar rod. The balance bar works by being connected to a knob in the car that changes the fulcrum applying pressure to the master cylinder pushrods, just like the Wilwood Tru-Bar set-up.... only this works using the original pedal assembly.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Master%20Cylinder%20Test%20Fit_zpsiqre1omr.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Master%20Cylinder%20Test%20Fit_zpsiqre1omr.jpg.htm l)

[Gumball]

I've been doing some more mock-up work, getting ready to install some additional forward section bracing and shock tower reinforcements.

The shock tower reinforcement is a kit sold by the "Dr. Gas" guys and includes six pieces per side for the inner shock tower area (this mimics the big-block cars from later years, as well as the Boss 302s) and although the kit did come with a couple pieces of flat stock for the outer pocket, I made my own so that they are more like what the old Boss 302 chassis prep manual put out by Ford back in '70 recommends.

Here's the full reinforcement kit held in place with welding magnets - the side pieces that sit on top of the subframe rails are hard to see in this pic:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Pass%20Reinforce%20Kit_Fitted_zpsr269w1rb.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Pass%20Reinforce%20Kit_Fitted_zpsr269w1rb.jpg.html )

This pic shows the panel covering the outer pocket, which rises at a 45* angle from the inner lip of the subframe - note the pilot holes drilled for the 1 3/4" upper control arm drop:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20161011_114653696_zpsiften0nb.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20161011_114653696_zpsiften0nb.jpg.html)

And this is a shot of the mock-up of the final front section stiffener - a strut rod that will run from the upper outside corner of the reinforced cowl to the spring / shock cover... this will be made using 4130 chrome moly tubing with spherical rod ends so that the spring / shock covers can be removed.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/cowl%20to%20shock%20tower%20mock%20up_zpsgruiqcj3. jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/cowl%20to%20shock%20tower%20mock%20up_zpsgruiqcj3. jpg.html)

[Gumball]

The shell is back at the chassis shop getting the reinforcements that I posted above welded into place. When I dropped it off, the rear end housing was done, and now has a large filler, drain in the bottom, a jack bung surrounding the drain plug area, a temp sensor bung, and brackets for the torque arm. Here's a pic of the torque arm mock-up (no lock nuts in place on the lower pivot adjustment). I just have to work on the math to ensure that the front mount I use doesn't introduce any bind into the system and it'll be ready to go. Torque arm is made by Total Control Products and is 36" long - it's the version for a Cougar with a nine inch rear end.

Also, the rear end housing was made by Moser and includes 3" tubes and uses the large "Torino" bearings.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Rear%20Housing%20with%20Torque%20Arm_zpsyl0xfrb9.j pg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Rear%20Housing%20with%20Torque%20Arm_zpsyl0xfrb9.j pg.html)

[Gumball]

I dropped by the chassis shop last night to check on the status of this final round of welding and it looks like they're just about done - should be back in my shop by this weekend. I'll post more pics as soon as it's back in my care.

Here are a couple pics....

This shows the finished reinforcement panels on the inside of the shock towers. These will greatly increase the strength of the lower area of the towers and hopefully avoid any cracking issues that would come from heavy track use. Note that there are no holes for the upper control arms visible, but the lowered mounting points were pre-drilled (pilot holes only) in the existing metal and are accessible from the outside. I'll only drill those, though, not the original holes. Something else evident in this pic is the fact that the chassis guys spent a little more time re-fitting the reinforcement panels, including a few pie-slices, to make sure that they are completely flush against the original metal.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Comp%20Fab%20Finished%20Pass%20Side_zpsl1e57rcj.jp g (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Comp%20Fab%20Finished%20Pass%20Side_zpsl1e57rcj.jp g.html)

This is the removable strut rod that we added from the reinforced cowl area to the spring cover - one per side. It's removable so that the spring cover can remain a removable part. And, while the spring cover is a fairly flimsy piece of sheetmetal (about .090"), this will provide some incremental support at the outside of the shock tower.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Comp%20Fab%20Finished%20Outer%20Strut%20Rod_zpskt2 k4m7i.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Comp%20Fab%20Finished%20Outer%20Strut%20Rod_zpskt2 k4m7i.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Here are a couple of additional pics of the latest round of chassis work - stiffening the front shock towers.....

Driver's side showing the 45* angled plate spanning the pocket that is a weak point on the original cars:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20161029_191627971_HDR_zpslmqtpa7h.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20161029_191627971_HDR_zpslmqtpa7h.jpg.html)

Same thing, but passenger side - these plates are in part the reason for the additional reinforcement patches on the inner shock tower, as they move forces from the subframe up to the now reinforced area:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20161029_191517423_zpssfdvtptm.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20161029_191517423_zpssfdvtptm.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

I didn't realize how long it's been since I've posted an update - unfortunately, it's because year end at work and other things have really gotten in the way of my car hobby for the past couple of months (except for the side-trip to pick up a garage mate for the Rustang).

I received one of those "clip-under-the-hood" LED bar lights for Christmas, so was playing around with it today and took this pic of the Rustang - light bar is hanging from the cage and all of the other lights in my shop were off. This really shows some of the roll cage detail... enjoy.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Interior%20Lights_zpsc3lkzzsp.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Interior%20Lights_zpsc3lkzzsp.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Up in the air finally and on the spit for clear access to the entire car. I bought this rotisserie from a local guy who built it from some plans and used it for a few restoration - only cost me three hundred bucks... basically the cost of the steel, welding gas, and rod. Not adjustable like the store-bought variety, what with their hydraulic jacks and such, but with the use of a rolling gantry lift from my next door neighbor at the airport (he uses it to remove the prop from his WWII warbird), it was easy to lift it up and then adjust it to find the center of gravity. I can rotate it with one hand and it's a really stable work platform.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20170110_143321093_zpsoumsv8ay.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20170110_143321093_zpsoumsv8ay.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Another shot...

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20170110_151211312_zpsnh0guuvw.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20170110_151211312_zpsnh0guuvw.jpg.html)

[MPTech]

Really enjoying your build Chris, you do Class-A work on every project! That welding and re-inforcement is a work of art!

[Gumball]

This is the first time I've used a rotisserie for a restoration / build, so it's been fun for the past few days just spinning the body around and looking at all the various parts I have to work on over the next few months.

Yesterday, I used the mock-up block to get the transmission fitted again - and this time, the trans went right in place and the shifter fell smack in the middle of the rough-cut hole I made in the floorpan after my first attempt. Since I'm using a Jerico trans, the basic outer dimensions match that of a Ford toploader. But, the Hightower Direct Connect shifter is a bit of a wild card, in that it's taller than a stock shifter mechanism and is mounted off to the left side of the tail housing, closer to the driver.

This time, instead of struggling to get the trans in place with the body cart supporting the body, I just rotated the body 90 degrees after bolting the fake block and bellhousing in place and, with the help of a friend and some padding on the cross member, just slipped the trans in place. After securing the cross member, we just rolled the body back level and found that the shifter was just about where I wanted it to fall. I did loosen the adjustable motor mounts so I could slide the assembly forward about an inch, but final placement will have to wait until I get the headers in place to see how everything clears the reinforced shock towers. The plan is to get the engine as far to the passenger side and as close to the cowl as possible, without having any interference issues.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Bellhousing%20Test%20Fit_zps5bvonwpc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Bellhousing%20Test%20Fit_zps5bvonwpc.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Transmission%20Test%20Fit%20Take%202_zpsnvfoqbxs.j pg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Transmission%20Test%20Fit%20Take%202_zpsnvfoqbxs.j pg.html)

[Gumball]

As you can tell from the last picture in the post above, I have to construct a "bump-out" on my transmission tunnel to accommodate the Hightower shifter, which sits higher and farther towards the driver than a shifter would on a top loader. Since I have to do a bunch of other metal fabrication, I've added yet another sheet metal tool to the shop....

My "new-to-me" old Pexto foot shear should come in handy....

Found it locally on craigslist and it came complete with all of its original accessories (that's what is piled on top of it in this pic)....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Pexto%20137_zpsykz8p3gh.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Pexto%20137_zpsykz8p3gh.jpg.html)

[FFRSpec72]

As you can tell from the last picture in the post above, I have to construct a "bump-out" on my transmission tunnel to accommodate the Hightower shifter, which sits higher and farther towards the driver than a shifter would on a top loader. Since I have to do a bunch of other metal fabrication, I've added yet another sheet metal tool to the shop....

My "new-to-me" old Pexto foot shear should come in handy....

Found it locally on craigslist and it came complete with all of its original accessories (that's what is piled on top of it in this pic)....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Pexto%20137_zpsykz8p3gh.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Pexto%20137_zpsykz8p3gh.jpg.html)

36" ?

[Gumball]

36" ?

Yep - it's a model #137, so 36" cutting blades.

[Gumball]

Latest update is on a work-in-progress... making a bump-out for the transmission tunnel to accommodate the Jerico and it's shifter. Although the Jerico mimics the size and shape of a Ford top loader, the shifter is in a different location, especially on mine since I'm using a version that has the shift rods going through the inside of the housing from the rear instead of along the outside of the transmission case.

Here's a pic of the huge hole I had to cut into the new floor on my car:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Transmission%20Test%20Fit%20Take%202_zpsnvfoqbxs.j pg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Transmission%20Test%20Fit%20Take%202_zpsnvfoqbxs.j pg.html)

And this is the template I made out of card stock to start the mock-up of the bump-out that I'll fabricate out of sheetmetal (using my "new to me" shear and finger brake):

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20170201_191959518_HDR_zpszaihmhxr.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20170201_191959518_HDR_zpszaihmhxr.jpg.html)

I bought a fire/oil proof shifter boot from Joe's Racing that comes with this nifty base, complete with snaps to allow for the easy removal of the boot to fix the inevitably loose shift lever bolts on the grid just before heading out on track. Here's a pic of how the base for the boot will fit on top of the bump-out - should give a nice finished look when done:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20170201_191046200_HDR_zpsnmzdrr8x.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20170201_191046200_HDR_zpsnmzdrr8x.jpg.html)

Now to just transfer all this into metal and get it welded together.

[Gumball]

Finally got around to translating the cardboard shifter box-out into metal today. After tweaking the template to make it fit snug against the floorpan, I cut it at a 45* angle at the upper outside corners and laid it flat on some sheet metal. A little cutting and bending and I have this - complete with just two joints on the piece to weld, then weld it to the floor. I made it out of thicker metal than was necessary, just to add back in the rigidity that I lost by cutting such a gaping hole in a brand new floor.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/1%20shifter%20box%20out_zpsuypxv1um.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/1%20shifter%20box%20out_zpsuypxv1um.jpg.html)

[AC Bill]

Is there any chance that you eventually may need to access any of the shifter bolts or screws, as are visible on the lower area of the case? If so, maybe designing the cover to be removable would be helpful.

[Gumball]

Did a final fit with the transmission to ensure that the shifter is in the right spot in relation to the new boxed out section on the tunnel. I also did a little "massaging" of the tunnel to provide extra clearance for the finned top cover and the return line for the trans cooler - simply heated the area up with an oxy/acet torch and used a dolly to give it a nice subtle bump-out.

Before doing this final fitting, I also assembled the headers in place to make sure that the engine was properly located, since I have adjustable motor mounts.

Very happy with the final fit, so now on to other sheet metal work.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Final%20Fit%20with%20Box%20Out_zpsmhohcokx.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Final%20Fit%20with%20Box%20Out_zpsmhohcokx.jpg.htm l)

[Gumball]

Rolled the car on its side this past weekend and finished the stitch welding on the undercarriage seams. Still have to climb inside and tackle a few seams there, particularly in the rear upper structure of the car that ties the two sides together, but it's getting to the point where I only have a little more welding left - finally.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20170319_150534783_HDR_zpsprm0qejd.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20170319_150534783_HDR_zpsprm0qejd.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20170319_150556520_zpsnjusjazn.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20170319_150556520_zpsnjusjazn.jpg.html)

[Gumball]

Welding fun....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20170319_124846133_HDR%201_zpsccygwbzw.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20170319_124846133_HDR%201_zpsccygwbzw.jpg.htm l)

[Goose Thornhill]

Those frame connectors look great. What tubing size did you use and did you have them bent to any specific angles ? I have looked at doing something similar with straight tubing and it is offset from the rear frame rail by a couple of inches.

[Gumball]

Finally decided on my exhaust - this is a mock-up of a friend's before we welded it up, but mine will be the same. It's a Dr. Gas system using oval pipe and "boom tube" mufflers. I'm thinking that I'll probably only use one muffler exiting to the passenger side with two tubes coming into it from the "X" pipe, but I'm waiting for feedback from the manufacturer on flow rates before making up my mind.

Sort of goofy looking, though, like it fell off the car and was run over. The boom tubes are only about 1 1/4" thick and sound incredible.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/DC9AB86D-_zpsilqr2efg.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/DC9AB86D-_zpsilqr2efg.jpg.html)

[fhp1154!]

This has to be one of the most awesome builds I have ever seen!:eek:

[David Hodgkins]

Amazing talent.

I gotta learn how to weld...

:)

[Jazzman]

Hey, Gumball, it's been months!! We need updates, photos, info!!! Come on, feed our addiction!! What's been going on? :)

[Gumball]

Lots more stitch welding - that part is pretty much done - and I'm chipping away at the last few sheet metal to-dos on the list. Hopefully, it'll go to media blast for clean-up this fall and come back in some nice, original looking red oxide two-part epoxy sealer.

Life's been in the way for the past year or so, what with work, house projects, driving the FFR, picking up a new GT350R, fixing Mrs. Gumball's '67 Camaro (seems to be running better than ever, finally), and other family stuff, so the Rustang has sort of moved to the back burner.

Hope to have more to report soon, though!!!!

[Jazzman]

Thanks for the update Gumball. I saw your new GT350R (Gorgeous!!) Glad the Camero is running well. These old ones can be temperamental!! I understand family taking priority, as they should. Post when you can. Know that this thread has at least one fan!!

It will be at least this fall before my Mustang is ready for media blasting, but that is something I am also looking forward to.

[Mitch Wright]

What a nice build.

[Gumball]

Projects like this always serve as a good source of reasons to buy new tools and learn new skills. I really enjoyed the bodywork phase of my FFR build, but working with fiberglass is so different (and more forgiving) than working with metal. Since I'm making a bunch of small panels to cover openings in the rear bulkhead, and some of those will have to follow compound curves, I decided to pick up a small hobby-size english wheel.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/20181118_171431_zpskmvqcbv8.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/20181118_171431_zpskmvqcbv8.jpg.html)

My first project with this new tool was to make a couple of small covers that will go over a large gap in the rear bulkhead where it meets the inner wheel housings. I saved a bunch of non-rusted, galvanized metal from the body shell when it was reconstructed for just this purpose, so pardon the layers of paint built-up on the example in the photos.

I began with a flat piece of steel that I cut to shape based on a cardboard template.....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/20181118_155317_zps3mmyczul.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/20181118_155317_zps3mmyczul.jpg.html)

Then, using the cardboard template that was bent into the proper form, I used the english wheel to shape the lip that would sit on the inner wheel house (I also used a brake, rounded body hammer and shot bag, and pliers to get the rest of the curves just-so.....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/20181118_153613_zpsl3g5canv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/20181118_153613_zpsl3g5canv.jpg.html)

And here is the panel in place, just a little more trimming and shaping to the corners and it'll be ready to be welded in place.....

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/20181118_153629_zpso8dpof60.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/20181118_153629_zpso8dpof60.jpg.html)

[Jazzman]

Hey Gumball, whatever happened with this project? It looked interesting. (Perhaps because of my own interest in Mustangs!!)

Jazzman

[Gumball]

Hey Jazz - and everyone else who may be interested in an update.....

I finished the metal work on the Rustang build in the Spring of '19 and sold it last summer to a guy who was going to do the body/paint and mechanical assembly. It was just a matter of too much going on at the time, as well as changes in focus of my car hobby. I guess in hindsight, that was sort of a good decision given what has happened this year with vintage race schedules and events.

But, after a year with little to no work to do around the shop, I picked up the '73 Z28 that is highlighted in the other thread, so please follow along on that build as it goes from a one-owner, survivor drag car to a long-haul capable pro-touring machine.

[Jazzman]

I wondered if that might have been the case. You did amazing work on the Rustang. I am sure the buyer got far more car than he paid for! We will look forward to updates on the Z28! All the best to you and yours!!