Remote Oil Filter

[FFRSpec72]

I'm installing an oil cooler and since I'm doing that I thought I would install a remote oil filter, has anyone done this yet, any particular brand and any thoughts on location ? I'm going to be placing the oil cooler in the rear near the tail of the transaxle.

[Scargo]

In my STi I run a Canton remote filter (https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2254) block (https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2254). Quality part. I have the same for my 818R. I run a big Royal Purple filter (like K&N HP-3001), like for a V-8 Ford.

[FFRSpec72]

In my STi I run a Canton remote filter (https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2254) block (https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2254). Quality part. I have the same for my 818R. I run a big Royal Purple filter (like K&N HP-3001), like for a V-8 Ford.

I was going with Canton Engine Block plate ( https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=22-597 ) and a GREDDY Remote Filter Plate with Thermostat ( http://www.frsport.com/Greddy-12401114-Remote-Oil-Filter-Relocation-with-Thermostat_p_12814.html ) and then a Oil Cooler with fan ( http://www.kartek.com/Product/1017/Setrab-Series-1-Fan-Pack-Oil-Coolers.aspx ) and keep lines as straight and short as possible.

[Scargo]

That Greedy part is pretty nifty.
Too bad I've already bought all my pieces, which includes a Mocal thermostatic valve. I might have to sell my two parts and go with it. My Setrab is about twice as big and without a fan.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I am going to run the factory oil cooler.
Except I am going to run a run a small coolant loop to a heat exchanger.

Pro: No high pressure oil lines coming off the motor.
cons: Small pump needed to circulate coolant.

35986

[FFRSpec72]

So looking for s spot to install the remote filter, this spot is looking good, I would then install the cooler on the rear fender brace also on the drivers side, any thoughts ?

37490 37491

[Scargo]

Around here, in the air-stream of the side inlet as I'm proposing? ;)http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35476&d=1415314204

[FFRSpec72]

Around here, in the air-stream of the side inlet as I'm proposing?

Yes, I need like a 6 x 6 space there for the cooler and then filter would be just back from there in the 1.5 inch bar that goes back to the fender support

[07FIREBLADE]

Any updates on the progress of your remote filter setup/oil cooler?

[FFRSpec72]

Any updates on the progress of your remote filter setup/oil cooler?

Mine is complete, here are some pics

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[pikapp504]

I am going to run the factory oil cooler.
Except I am going to run a run a small coolant loop to a heat exchanger.

Pro: No high pressure oil lines coming off the motor.
cons: Small pump needed to circulate coolant.

35986

I know this is an old bump, and I may not be "in the know" due to not having built an 818 (yet), but since the heater core is not being utilized, couldn't those lines that are "capped" on the block be re-routed down to the oil cooler and use the water pump instead of a separate pump? Instead of using the "U-bend" pipe on the top of the motor, you could always just route the lines down to the cooler.

[Scargo]

I will continue my campaign to have people call this a "heat exchanger" or "POS". It is NOT an oil cooler. It is an emissions device which is supposed to accelerate heating the oil in a cold motor. It does nothing beneficial beyond that warm-up period.* When the engine is hot, oil and water will be at similar temperatures. It is relatively easy to bypass and eliminate. If you have an engine apart you can tap the head for a pipe plug and water pumps are available without the water connection or you can pull the tube and, by drilling and tapping, plug that hole too.

I will also continue to rant that this area is in the "Hell Hole" of the engine. The filter (and exchanger) is surrounded by exhaust pipes and a hot pan of oil. The last thing you want to do is use that area or have a bunch of stuff running in and out of there! It's a recipe for disaster. Of course this doesn't really apply if you putt around in a dead-stock motor.

The ideal goal is to run stainless braided, high-temperature oil lines off an adapter plate, out of that area, and have your filter and oil cooler elsewhere. Wrap headers, wrap or sleeve the oil lines and keep them at least an inch away from the wrapped exhaust or use more drastic measures like a shielding plate if they are within a half-inch. I have seen Subarus go up in flames because people were inattentive to this area.
I have covered this mod/my mod elsewhere here and listed the short Subaru adapter tube that is required.

*You will note that many earlier Subaru motors do not use a heat exchanger.

[lance corsi]

I will continue my campaign to have people call this a "heat exchanger" or "POS". It is NOT an oil cooler. It is an emissions device which is supposed to accelerate heating the oil in a cold motor. It does nothing beneficial beyond that warm-up period.* When the engine is hot, oil and water will be at similar temperatures. It is relatively easy to bypass and eliminate. If you have an engine apart you can tap the head for a pipe plug and water pumps are available without the water connection or you can pull the tube and, by drilling and tapping, plug that hole too.

I will also continue to rant that this area is in the "Hell Hole" of the engine. The filter (and exchanger) is surrounded by exhaust pipes and a hot pan of oil. The last thing you want to do is use that area or have a bunch of stuff running in and out of there! It's a recipe for disaster. Of course this doesn't really apply if you putt around in a dead-stock motor.

The ideal goal is to run stainless braided, high-temperature oil lines off an adapter plate, out of that area, and have your filter and oil cooler elsewhere. Wrap headers, wrap or sleeve the oil lines and keep them at least an inch away from the wrapped exhaust or use more drastic measures like a shielding plate if they are within a half-inch. I have seen Subarus go up in flames because people were inattentive to this area.
I have covered this mod/my mod elsewhere here and listed the short Subaru adapter tube that is required.

*You will note that many earlier Subaru motors do not use a heat exchanger.

I might agree, but if the device was meant to heat the oil, might it not also serve to cool the oil if the cooling fluid wasn't being heated to nearly 200 deg? Then would you agree that slightly above ambient temp fluid might be cooler than engine coolant? IMO, it will work, however a more efficient device would be better, such as one with more surface contact area for better heat transfer.

[Scargo]

Here's my latest in my personal crusade to eliminate the heat exchanger. (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20279-Removing-Oil-Factory-Oil-Cooler&p=229350&viewfull=1#post229350) Coolant in an engine can reach 230-240°F. That is why we have 31PSI radiator caps for race motors. Per one Hotrod Magazine article "As for ultimate power potential, the general consensus among most racers is that hot oil and cool water make more power in most engines.
I'm going to throw out that conventional oils shouldn't get over 240° and synthetics can handle 300°+.

A major point I am trying to make is you have a pan of oil that is 240° and headers capable of releasing 1,500° or more that surround the heat exchanger and oil filter. If you ditch the stock exhaust and its heat shielding you must wrap the headers or shield that area and do it well. Any sustained, high-speed driving will generate these elevated temperatures. The exchanger is a horribly inefficient way to cool oil in any case. With an all-aluminum engine that is prone to failed head gaskets I think an oil cooler is a must. Just like with the old air-cooled VW motors, you had to add an external oil cooler if you wanted it to live as a high-performance motor.
If you drive on the street or autocross you may well never have an issue. There is a good chance you will see heat-soak when you stop and idle on a hot day.

NOTE: I see in at least one factory service manual it is called an oil cooler. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/smilies/redface.png
Somewhere it is called a heat exchanger; I swear! It really is a better definition, but may fly in the face of FSM convention.

[lance corsi]

I totally agree with your summation, however I didn't tell he rest of the story. I'm using a small radiator, mounted in the rear sail cutout, which will see only ambient air temps. I am then circulating coolant through it by using a small centrifugal pump. This will send cool fluid ( cooler than engine coolant) through the inefficient heat exchanger which was used by Subaru. With the employment of a sandwich plate and a remote filter mount, most of the heat issues can be avoided. If necessary, one can easily add a sheet metal heat barrier between the header and the hoses. This is staying with the idea of repurposing the donor pieces.

[Scargo]

This is staying with the idea of repurposing the donor pieces. I have no issue with your logic or solution. Use what works and what is at hand, especially if you are less well-endowed than Trump (with money).
I will still say that eliminating all that BS and using a remote oil cooler and filter would kill four birds with one stone.

[lance corsi]

One more thing, if I may, all of the oil cooler systems I have seen require that the engine oil circulate through the core of the cooler. In order to provide adequate strength against vibration, possible contact with rocks, etc, and any pressure that the system may have, the core must be made heavier than a typical radiator structure. This is important when mounting unit in direct air stream. The alternative would be to place the heat exchanger in a remote location and incorporate a fan for airflow. NOW, using my method, only the small radiator is exposed to airflow, thus possible damage and the oil system remains intact.