Front brake routing

[Pirate]

I am trying to figure out the best way to go about routing the front brake line from the master cylinder to the T fitting. I see how FFR does it in the manual but the 60 inch line seems like it is going to be too long and I want to avoid if possible cutting the line and having to do a flare myself. Can yall post some pictures of how you ran the line. Thanks.

Chris


Ps. Oh yeah if you have pictures of how you ran the line to rear brakes I'd appreciate taking a look at those too. I had to run my fuel line up drivers side due to fuel pump being on drivers side. So I was thinking of taking rear brake line out engine side of drivers footbox and across firewall to passenger side and running it back. Anyone done that?

[rmcmicki]

I came out of the master, down the firewall, along the Lower 3/4 panel. I teed at the front driver side and ran a short line to the front left. From there I went down the cross member and up to the passenger side and directly into the fitting.

For the rear, I came out of the master, down the interior post behind the pedal, out the bottom behind the frame tube, turned and went along the 4 inch frame rail. I had a join in the middle about half way along. Then I came directly up the vertical tube , across the 3/4 and into a tee. The line from driver side to passenger side went along the top frame where I have my battery box sunken.

I couldnt really find and good pics. Here is. A link to my build site. The first pic you can see the line coming out to the front so hopefully that will help a bit.

http://rmcmicki.wordpress.com/2013/12/28/engine-is-in/

Oh yah, I used the lines from the kit as a template, got them all bent etc then had stainless lines made so they were a good length.

Rob

[David Hodgkins]

Here's how I did my brother's build. It's pretty much is by the book, with the exception of the last connection from the driver's rear to the passenger rear. No cutting or flaring required. This kit came with 4 60" lengths of brake line. I added one more to run the last line.

Line 1 goes from front Wilwood master out the top of the foo tbox...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27908&d=1397487329

... down the upper 3/4" tube and into the rollercoaster of bends before terminating at the "T" block:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27905&d=1397487325

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27906&d=1397487327

#2 connects the front driver side to the passenger side. Again, by the book. I wish this line was 3" longer. For the anal retentive, triangulating the first bend could have added a bit to the passenger side, resulting in more symmetry. After mocking it up, the rest of the bends were so good and the spacing off the frame is perfect so I went with it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27904&d=1397487324


:)

[David Hodgkins]

The third line runs from the rear brake master down the inner corner of the driver's foot box, out the bottom and along the driver's 4" tube (I need to find or take pics of that). It connects to the 4th line under the front of the driver's seat area:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27909&d=1397487330

The 4th line runs down the tube to the end, does a 90 degree bend then one small bend points the line right up the rear of the frame:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27910&d=1397487331

Then I did a tight 90 degree turn and hand formed a loop into the tee that is used to connect to the passenger rear:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27911&d=1397487332

I bought one more 60" line to do the last run. Although it doesn't show in the following pics, the support bar for the ffMetal battery box is where I attach the line from the driver side to the passenger side. Again, I'll have to find some missing pics of that for the visual learners out there (like me).
It basically goes straight up, does a 90+ bend to the (missing) support beam...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27912&d=1397487333

...runs from the driver side to the passenger along the (missing) support tube for the battery box, does a last 90+ degree bend, and goes into the last hand-bent loop to the passenger-rear soft line (attached to the frame):
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27914&d=1397487335

HTH,

:)

[edwardb]

Couple comments. First, doesn't hurt to have fuel and brake lines going front to back on the same side. Even next to each other is OK. Taking the front back brake line over and back on the passenger side is unnecessary IMO, and just adding more tubing when it isn't needed. Second, kind of makes a difference what master cylinder setup you're using. Wilwood with the MC's in the footbox? Or something else? Plus rear suspension makes a difference too. Point is not everyone's routing will be the same based on build differences let alone preferences. Finally, the regular steel line provide by FFR is easy to flare with even reasonably good tools. I personally would recommend you add the necessary tool(s) and skill to your inventory. You'll have a neater/cleaner build, and not have to sweat standard lengths, getting rid of extra tubing, etc. Compared to the skill needed to build one of these, putting a flare on brake line tubing is simple. Just something for you to consider. One of the keys is practice. Pick up a couple of pieces of lines from your local parts store and practice until you can make them reliably.

FWIW, these are pictures of the fuel and brake line from my nearly complete Mk4 build. All rigid stainless, so that's a whole additional story. But maybe some of the pics give you some ideas about routing. Good luck. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8296-Mk4-7750-Build-Progress-Update&p=85815&viewfull=1#post85815

[Pirate]

David, thanks for the pictures. Do you have any pictures of the drivers foot box inside and underneath where the line runs?

Thanks,

Chris

Here is a picture of underneath my drivers footbox with the fuel line.

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p544/Pirate767/03909acaeff9e2ef122baa42ea1aad31_zpsaa423243.jpg[/URL][/IMG]

And down the 4" rail.

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p544/Pirate767/d614c0c3fa2fb8b661e7fc09c5982d41_zps5979c722.jpg[/URL][/IMG]

[David Hodgkins]

Pirate here you go:

Quick note on the first one.. pic angles can be deceiving in the way they do or don't show shadows and spacing. The line is not THAT close the the pedal bracket. None the less, I might add a retaining clip to the steering pillow block bolt. The line is soft enough to manipulate by hand, if you are careful. ;)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35784&d=1416235863

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35783&d=1416235860

I guess this could use a little "engish":
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35782&d=1416235858

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35781&d=1416235851

:)

[Pirate]

Thanks David, that's big help!!! One more question, well maybe a couple. How big of a hole did you drill for the line, and how did you seal it up, silicon? How did you go about getting that line in there and what bend did you start with, the bend out the bottom and work up? Sometimes it's a real challenge trying to figure out how to just get started.

Thanks again,

Chris