DavidW build in Maryland

[DavidW]

So I have been planning a build for a few years. I've had to get my garage ready. As you can see I had to make some storage for all the junk that gets put in there.
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I painted the floor, got air, a supply of needed tools such as engine lift, jack, motor stand, sockets, torque wrench etc., and a retracting power supply.
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So far I have a 351w based engine, MSD starter, MSD ignition, Russell complete carbureted fuel system kit . A TKO 600 transmission, QuickTime bellhousing, billet steel flywheel, Street Slayer clutch, hydraulic clutch release bearing and Wilwood clutch master cylinder, Wheels and tires. I also have the rear, a Ford 8.8 rear axle with 31 spline axles, tracloc 355 gears and a Ford Racing diff cover and Wilwood drilled and slotted rotors with 4 piston caliper with e-brake to be installed.
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I have tried to think of the things I would need that aren't in the kit and get them.....yes I haven't ordered the kit yet, I know, I'm on the pay as you go type budget.

I had planned on ordering the kit this month or next but do to a family medical emergency, "our dog" I will have to postpone the order for a little while.
I will be picking her up from the vet hospital today 2pm after a gallbladder removal, and now pancreatitis. She has spent a total of 11 days at the vet and I hope she gets better soon.

Let me know what other components I might want to get prior to ordering the complete MK4 kit, thanks. Until then I'll be sitting in my garage just looking at all the parts, and stalking you all on the forums.

[rmiller64]

Hi David

We are thinking alike.... I ordered a complete kit on August 22nd and have done just about everything you have here but get the tires and wheels on the shelf. My wheels are coming from FFR and the tires Goodyear Billboards from supplier in CA. They have been on B/O since June but should ship soon. a couple tools I have added to tool box are Cleco tool & fasteners, good drill bits, air rivet tool and a 1/4 in. air drill. Here is what I decided on. Get the pooch rehabbed so you can get the kit ordered. If you get the chance head down to Wareham for a tour. I made the trip last Friday and really enjoyed the visit. I flew from the west coast
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Pic of garage

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Rearend done

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331 Stroker

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[68GT500MAN]

That will be a nice home for a new build.
Doug

[DavidW]

So, the dog is better than ever. I didn't get the air drill but I need to do better than the battery drills I'm using, I might just go electric due to my air tank isn't that big and noise can be an issue. I did get a pneumatic riveter but have had problems with it, I need to get that fixed because its so easy to use.

I received the kit on 6-7-15. Inventory was a bear, had to almost guess on some of the parts description and with some research was able to confirm them. Looks like I'll have some fun keeping track of some backordered parts, upgraded parts and other parts too.
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The front suspension and rear 3 link suspension are done but in the book directions says the rear axle Koni shock body attaches to the frame that's how I did it but on the YouTube video it shows the shock body attaches to the axle, does it matter??

The next step is the pedal box and brakes. I just realized that I should probably upgrade the brake master cylinders because I upgraded to the 6 piston front and 4 piston rear calipers. The kit has .75 front and .625 rear master cylinder. I guess I can use the .75 master cylinder for the upgraded 4 piston rear caliper and only purchase a new 1.0 master cylinder for the front 6 piston caliper, does that sound correct?? What about the reservoir tank, should that be larger??

[MPTech]

I picked up a decent corded drill from Home Depot for around $50. The cord is a pain, but it is consistent and always ready to go. (cordless are great if they are charged and you're only drilling a few holes).
Don't forget some black oxide bits too. I don't remember the size, it's not common (13/64"???), but pick up a couple spares. Not a matter of if you break, them, it's when.
Enjoy the build, First Start and Go-Kart are a BLAST!

[DavidW]

I talked to a tech and they said the master cylinders delivered with the kit will work good for the upgraded calipers and rotors.

[DavidW]

My build is going pretty good so far. I'm following the FFR Assembly Manual and am up to the "Fuel System" about page #160. I thought I would be happy about the Edelbrock complete fuel system kit I purchased but looking at the options for mounting the pump I might reconsider at least the pump part.
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I have searched the internet for FFR Roadster fuel pump placement and have gotten good results but I just don't think those locations are for me. I might go with the in tank pump. I have to check compatibility and hopefully get some feed back from others who went through this dilemma. The end result is a pump that will be compatible with an EFI system in the future, not saying I will switch to EFI but you never know. I'm thinking about this pump. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4258fi/overview/

I will probably skip the fuel line and start on brake lines, again following the book as best I can.
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[KDubU]

Looking nice! What did you paint the rear-end with? I bought some VRT paint as felt the POR-15 was a bit overboard considering my rear-end is not all rusty. It already has a primer on it from Mike Forte.

[DavidW]

I got my rear from Mike Forte also and came in primer but the pinion seal leaked after I filled it with fluid. I used the POR-15 two coats. I thinned it on the second coat. It turned out okay and I had a buddy say it looked like it was powder coated. The seal isn't leaking too bad so I'll wait to replace the $7.00 seal. I'll need to find out if when Mike did the rear he used a crush sleeve or solid with shims. Either way a leaky seal sucks on a newly rebuilt rear.

[Ray W.]

Don't bother asking him to cover the cost of a new seal and the fluid you wasted. Ask me how I know….

[DavidW]

Don't bother asking him to cover the cost of a new seal and the fluid you wasted. Ask me how I know….

Yeah I'm not worried about that. From what I see on the forum Mike is good people and has a lot of products that help people like me to achieve a goal even if there are a few bumps in the road, that's what its all about. Now I get to learn how to replace the flange seal, I'm sure its not the last thing I'll learn about during this build. Now I'm learning about fuel systems, haven't even attempted to install any part of it yet do the parts I have and fitment issues.

[DavidW]

Its been a slow process but very rewarding.

I got a chance to stop by Whitby Motorcars in NC when I was down there for my Daughters graduation from High Point University and was met by a very knowledgeable crew, I was impressed. I'll be dropping it off there for paint hopefully soon.

Here is my progress.

I installed the motor and trans, installed the accelerator peddle wire and mount on the carb. Installed the brake and clutch reservoir on the frame. I hope the body doesn't make it hard to access them, if it does a simple fix could be some spacers on the mount....hopefully.54293

I installed the motor and trans to find the bellhousing hits the frame on the passenger side, easy fix remove engine and cut off lip of bellhousing. It turned out nice and you cant even notice. Cutting it gives me about a half inch clearance on both sides, hard to see in the pic though. The trunk aluminum went in well except the small triangle piece #22 went in after the sides did and I couldn't rivet the bottom of the piece. I think it will be fine because its inside the trunk frame.5429454297

The radiator went in good but I decided to get the top and bottom ceramic hoses and the bottom radiator bracket from Breeze.54296

I mounted the fuel regulator on the front of the head, I hope it doesn't shake too much. I found a pre-bent hose that fit perfect between the water pump and the intake manifold.54298

The E brake was the most pain in the but thing so far. I had to re-arrange the bolts a couple times to get it to clear the aluminum but finally got it. I decided not to run the cables under the frame so I modified the #7 handle to ratchet mount. I added about 3 inches extending it, changing the geometry so the cable could go over the frame. I also modified the cable frame bracket by welding half inch pipe on an angle, it worked well even moved the cable away from the drive shaft.542995430054301

I was going to replace the pinion seal because it leaked. I couldn't get the flange nut to budge. I figure I'll replace it later so I just decided to install the drive shaft.

I installed the battery and now for the rest of the wiring.54295

[ncbuilder]

Where are you located in Maryland ? I am in far western MD. :)

[David Hodgkins]

Wow David you're moving right along! I upgraded your account so you can edit your profile, etc.

You might want to try using the [IMG] tag to embed your image files instead of attaching them. Here's an image posting thread as a reference:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts


GREAT build so far!

:)

[rmiller64]

Your build is looking real good there David. do we have a first start video coming soon?

[DavidW]

I was hoping to have it started this week but the wiring has me stumped. I'm working on the dash wiring and have the upgraded dash and vintage gauges. The glove box was assembled and hinges attached, all gauges are installed, indicator lights installed for high beam and blinker. Horn, ignition switch, and headlight switch installed. Switches for high beam, turn signal and hazards installed. I am debating on doing a indicator light for the alternator charging.

The wiring for the gauges is real nice and easy everything plugs in together. Now the oil pressure sender and wire that came with it go right to the oil pressure gauge and the wiring from the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness isn't used. Same with the water temp sender and wire that came with it goes right to the water temp gauge but now I need the other temp sender installed in the manifold and connect it to the temp sender wire to the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness to activate the electric fan...I guess. What happens to the Speedometer and Fuel wiring that came with the gauges, I'm assuming I plug the connector into the gauges and then connect the wires to the corresponding wires from the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness, i.e., fuel sender and speed sensor??

I haven't even thought about the volt or tachometer gauges.

[edwardb]

I was hoping to have it started this week but the wiring has me stumped. I'm working on the dash wiring and have the upgraded dash and vintage gauges. The glove box was assembled and hinges attached, all gauges are installed, indicator lights installed for high beam and blinker. Horn, ignition switch, and headlight switch installed. Switches for high beam, turn signal and hazards installed. I am debating on doing a indicator light for the alternator charging.

The wiring for the gauges is real nice and easy everything plugs in together. Now the oil pressure sender and wire that came with it go right to the oil pressure gauge and the wiring from the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness isn't used. Same with the water temp sender and wire that came with it goes right to the water temp gauge but now I need the other temp sender installed in the manifold and connect it to the temp sender wire to the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness to activate the electric fan...I guess. What happens to the Speedometer and Fuel wiring that came with the gauges, I'm assuming I plug the connector into the gauges and then connect the wires to the corresponding wires from the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness, i.e., fuel sender and speed sensor??

I haven't even thought about the volt or tachometer gauges.

I wrote the response below in the other forum to a similar question. I'll just paste it here FWIW. These questions come up quite often. An area where the instructions could be improved.

For the Speedhut gauges and RF harness, there are three aspects.

1. Red/White/Black daisy chain: This provides power to the gauges (red), power to the needles (white) and ground (black). The red wire goes to the brown gauge feed wire in RF harness, white to the dash lighting feed, and black to ground. I also use the brown gauge feed for the input to the voltage gauge. It has +12V any time the ignition key is on, so a good source to read voltage for the gauge.

2. White/Black daisy chain: This provides power to the backlighting on the gauges, and goes through the supplied inverter and trim pot. White goes to dash lighting feed in the RF harness (same as #1 above) and black to ground.

3. Each gauge is slightly different, but what remains are the signals for each gauge. This is where I guess it gets a little confusing. Let's talk concepts. Speedhut provides a nice box of sending units and cables to go from the sending units to the gauges. You could absolutely use these as is if you wanted to. On the other hand, the RF harness has a signal wire available for each in the dash harness. The wires route through the main harness and then out sending unit harness that is intended to be routed into the engine compartment. This harness has a connection for oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, tach, choke and fan thermo switch. Whether you use the Speedhut wires end to end, or go through the RF harness, electrically everything is exactly the same. The advantage of using the RF sending unit wires IMO is that it's easier, you have everything in one harness, and the connectors to the dash still work as intended, e.g. you can unplug three connectors and the dash is loose.

To use the RF sending unit wires, you need to cut off the Speedhut connectors on the gauges and attach those to the RF wires in the dash harness. On the sending unit side, the Speedhut provided water and oil temp (if you're using it) have connectors, so that's why I suggested splicing those wires onto the RF harness wires. The balance can be used by adding a terminal lug (oil pressure) or spade connector to the RF wires. The only slight wrinkle is a ground wire needs to be added in a couple of cases. I usually just add into the sending unit harness and ground them behind the dash. Or you could ground at the engine if you wanted to.

Where the tach wire goes from the gauges depends on your engine setup. Could be to an ignition box, EFI PCM, or even to the coil if an old school setup. The speedo wires also depend on your setup. Any chance you have the GPS gauges? If so, you don't need the speed sensor. Otherwise, you should have two wires from the speed sensor in the harness. One goes to the speedo, the other to ground. There are several ways to hook up the cooling fan. The RF harness schematic shows a manual switch. If you want to use a sensor, it's wired slightly different. If you want both, a little different again. What are you planning and what sensor?

That's maybe a long winded answer but hopefully make sense and gives understanding to your specific questions.

[DavidW]

I figured out the wiring. I dissected some wire looms and combined the alternator wire with the electric choke and temp sensor on the passenger side, made it as clean as I could. Then I put the oil psi, water temp, and distributer wires together in a loom on the drivers side and made that as clean as I could.5763957640
The MSD ignition box got mounted on the passenger foot box, I thought about mounting it behind the firewall but when I was visiting Doug saw it looked good on the foot box.57641
I had to add a spacer to mount the dash, its the vinyl dash with glove box with the lip at the top. I use 1/8" x 1/2" aluminum and bent to fit.5764257643
I think it fit good with the spacer. The glove box needed the hinges attached to the door so I used some JB weld and it turned out stronger than I thought.57644
The dash ears fit right behind the hinges and need to be mounted so they don't move, I haven't done that yet.576455764657647
I had some trouble with the first start, I had the red MSD wire connected to the wrong tab on the ignition/key. Once I did some volt test and looked over the schematic I realized what I did wrong. It started right up after I switched the wire. My wife ran out to the garage and got a small video of it running, I'll have to get it from her to upload it. What a week!!

[DavidW]

I installed the drivers side seat and the safety harness that came with the kit, except the 5th point between legs. Where should I mount this, according to the Simpson instructions it looks like under the seat below the lap belt/intersection of chest line and seat....is that correct??

[carlewms]

David,

I was just reading the instructions and came away with the same interpretation...so I am curious as well.

I actually never seen the strap installed or even used so I am not sure that for an occasional track mostly street car it's even necessary ... So I am curious if not installing is a safe option.

Carl

[edwardb]

I installed the drivers side seat and the safety harness that came with the kit, except the 5th point between legs. Where should I mount this, according to the Simpson instructions it looks like under the seat below the lap belt/intersection of chest line and seat....is that correct??

The location you're describing is correct. With the seat mounted near the back, the mounting location will be near the front of the chassis seat pan. It needs to be mounted in something that's solid. Not just the floor aluminum sheeting. I'm not sure how builds with sliding seats are mounting the 5th point. The required forward movement would seem to limit where it can be attached. I've not installed sliding seats, so hasn't been an issue for me.

The 5th point is a very important component of the harness. It prevents submarining under the harness and keeps the lap belt in the proper location. Serious internal injuries can occur if the belt is in the wrong location. Some may think that's only important for track use and not necessary for street use. Personally I don't agree. Since the car doesn't have any of the other modern safety components (airbags, etc.) I personally want every advantage I can get. My builds have all had the 5th point and we use them at all times. Just becomes a natural part of buckling in. No big deal.

[carlewms]

I am going to make sure to install them! Thanks Carl

PS David my apologies for jumpin on your thread!

[mistasherm]

David - great to meet you a couple of weeks ago at Doug's. Your set up is sweet and you are cruising through your build; probably the Schuylkill County influence in your household - ha ha.

[DavidW]

Thanks again edward. carlewms I'll take all the input I can get, I ended up mounting the 5th point as the instructions say but the seat pan under the aluminum floor isn't as structural as the other 4 mounts, it'll have to do for now and I'll post a photo later.... mistasherm it was nice to meet you also I have a video of the first start my wife took as she ran out into the garage (she was taking the video) I thought she was going to say turn it off so I did then she said again, again. It must be the Schuylkill girl in her, she wasn't very much into the build until it started. I took it for the first drive also and have a video.....I think the motor has to much power for a car this light. It was scary, exciting and fun at the same time, responsibility and respect is definitely required when driving. I'll post the videos once I figure out how to get them off her iphone...I did post them to Google + but the quality sucks. I might have to take another video with my phone and share it.

[DavidW]

Finally figured out all the lights. I temporally connected all lights front and back and ran into a problem with the headlights. Ron Francis has some wires mixed up in their Weather Pack QD. It took me a while to find it, it was driving me crazy.58307 I switched the wires around using the special tool to get the wires out and they worked great. I even connected the LED courtesy lights for under the dash. It will give plenty of light to figure out the 5 point harness on a dark night.58308

[DavidW]

First start video
https://youtu.be/6M4I6RfM9S8

[DavidW]

First drive video
https://youtu.be/-31KkI3gqLI

[David Hodgkins]

Wow, LUMPY! I LIKE!!

:)

[740iLn]

DavidW - thanks for posting to YouTube. I'm a newbie here so I cannot see any pics yet. I hope the first drive went well. - John

[dmoran]

Congratulations! Great progress.

Some how life has gotten in the way of my build and I don't think I turned a wrench since you stopped over. I'm hoping to get back to it next week.

[WIS89]

Very nice videos! That engine sounds awesome!

Great feeling to get her out and stretch her legs a bit, huh?

Congratulations!

Regards,

Steve

[DavidW]

So I found that the "Red N Tacky" grease that I used for all the zert fittings seems to liquefy come up out of the zert fitting on the upper control arm and run all over the place, drips on the wheels, finds its way to the bottom of the frame rails. 59813

Does anyone else have this problem?

[DavidW]

I had the alignment done, height set to 5". I finally got the pinion seal changed, now its not leaking. I had the upper link axle mount welded to the axle also.
I fit the body and it was tight, and fit good. Exhaust went on without a problem.
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I have a problem with the air cleaner being too tall so I think I'm going to have to get a round drop base, 14" air cleaner and hope it does the trick.
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So with everything buttoned up except the air cleaner I put it in the trailer and took it to Whitby Motorcars in NC on Veterans day, this past Friday. Now I have an empty garage and will start researching drop base air cleaners that fit my Edelbrock Thunder, AVS Carburetor. I've been told the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake is why its so high, I was really hoping to show off the parts but I guess fitment can be an issue.

[DavidW]

My family experienced our first and hopefully last tornado here on Kent Island Maryland two weeks prior to going to NC for vacation. My trailer ended up being totaled. Whitby was able to work the hood to fit the air cleaner and we have primer. A new trailer has been ordered and hopefully will be picking up the car from Whitby in 3-4 weeks.

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[mistasherm]

Ouch - heard about that one and couldn't believe it! Hopefully you and your family are okay. I was in your area the other day, my neighbor is building off Cox Neck - anyway. Car is coming along nicely!

[dmoran]

Hey David,

How's the painting going?

Doug

[DavidW]

Hey David,

How's the painting going?

Doug

Its still there......349 days today. I guess for them its good to be busy, for me its been a tough year haha. Hopefully Ill get it back soon and post some pics.

[WIS89]

David-

Oh my gosh, it's been there nearly a year? I am so sorry! I hope you get her back soon so you can have her done in time for the spring driving season.

I have spent a few years up that way, and you certainly have plenty of beautiful places to drive, and I know t will be a thrill when you do get her back. If you need me to swing by Whitby's for some pictures of the progress, I need to go out that way soon, and would be happy to do it. Just shoot me a PM.

Have you gotten your new trailer yet? Sorry to hear about the tornado. That's hurricane country, not tornado...

Keep hanging tough, and I look forward to seeing you get your body back soon!

Regards,

Steve

[DavidW]

David-

Oh my gosh, it's been there nearly a year? I am so sorry! I hope you get her back soon so you can have her done in time for the spring driving season.

I have spent a few years up that way, and you certainly have plenty of beautiful places to drive, and I know t will be a thrill when you do get her back. If you need me to swing by Whitby's for some pictures of the progress, I need to go out that way soon, and would be happy to do it. Just shoot me a PM.

Have you gotten your new trailer yet? Sorry to hear about the tornado. That's hurricane country, not tornado...

Keep hanging tough, and I look forward to seeing you get your body back soon!

Regards,

Steve

Spring season, I'm sure I'll be driving in the cold when I get it back as long as its dry out. I did get the new trailer and its great.

[DavidW]

Just got word its all trimmed out and they should be spraying the body next week. Shouldn't be long now! Beginning of January it should be completed, fingers crossed.

[Jazzman]

Its still there......349 days today. I guess for them its good to be busy, for me its been a tough year haha. Hopefully Ill get it back soon and post some pics.

And I thought mine was slow taking 7 months, one of which was on me when I got the body back and put it on the frame. They clearly do good work, but . . . wow 12 months with no results. you are more patient than I think I would have been. I hope that it is everything you hope for. I admit the waiting is hard, but the results are very satisfying. Post some photos when you get it! Best of luck.

[carlewms]

David,

Almost a year ... that is one long wait ... but the results I have seen from local guys will surely make it worth it.

Carl

[DavidW]

I received an exciting photo from Whitby yesterday, and they said they are pulling stripes. Shouldn't be long now! I saw a picture this morning on their FB page and they sure do have those bodies stacked up outside that booth.
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[wareaglescott]

Saw that picture on instagram this morning. Glad to know it is yours!!

[DavidW]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79058&d=1515682995 From the other day.

[Straversi]

What a tease!
-Steve

[DavidW]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79065&d=1515684367http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79064&d=1515684367http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79063&d=1515684366

[DavidW]

I finally took the time and figured out how to post large pics.

[Yama-Bro]

Looks nice!

[wareaglescott]

Looks awesome! It is so exciting seeing your car like that the first time!

[Mark Eaton]

Wow, those colors really look awesome!

[DavidW]

Thanks everyone! Sterling grey metallic, with ruby red metallic and tuxedo black metallic stripes. Whitby did a great job, cant wait to get it home.

[Jazzman]

Really beautiful. Congratulations!!

[mistasherm]

David - look forward to seeing you cruising the Eastern Shore! Very nice!

[Boydster]

That looks really good, Dave. Im headed down to Whitby's on about a week or so for a first dropoff...

[DavidW]

That looks really good, Dave. Im headed down to Whitby's on about a week or so for a first dropoff...

Thank you. Ask Jeff to take you through his shops, they have a lot going on there. They definitely are working on a lot of Roadsters, like an assembly line but if you just look in the first part of the shop you wouldn't know it. They have a good size machine shop too which surprised me because I don't see any people talking about that on the forum. They also have stuff outside too.

[DavidW]

David - look forward to seeing you cruising the Eastern Shore! Very nice!

Thanks, I cant wait. How is your build coming along.

[DavidW]

Finally back from Whitby and ready for final assembly!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81023&d=1518797712

[mistasherm]

Whoa! Great color combination! That is really going to turn out nice. I will be looking for it on the Eastern Shore!
Ty

[Boydster]

Dude! I saw your car when I was at Whitby's while it was being wetsanded. Looks fantastic... and love the grey. I believe this is the same Ford grey I will be using.

[DavidW]

Whoa! Great color combination! That is really going to turn out nice. I will be looking for it on the Eastern Shore!
Ty
Thanks, you'll probably hear me before you see me..haha.



Dude! I saw your car when I was at Whitby's while it was being wetsanded. Looks fantastic... and love the grey. I believe this is the same Ford grey I will be using.
Thanks, we don't live to far from each other maybe we'll see each other around once our cars are finished.

[Boydster]

Thanks, we don't live to far from each other maybe we'll see each other around once our cars are finished.

Defintely. Look for ward to meeting.

[DavidW]

So finally getting back to the build. I've started the small stuff like the lemans cap, installing weather pack connectors and lights. I had to open up the holes for everything with a file, it was intimidating because of the new paint but once I got started it was easy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81832&d=1519831020
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81835&d=1519831021
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81834&d=1519831021

I've been looking at the drivers side exhaust and how it comes out of the body, the top exhaust bolt hits the body and should be able to be pushed off by using the splash guard I was told but it takes a lot of force to move it. Has anyone made a shim to fit between the body and the drivers side footbox to help push the body off the exhaust? I think I'm going to attach a stud with HSRF on the body tab in front of the exhaust and try to push out the body with the splash guard. I may have to make a new splash guard or add an extension from the F-panel to make it wider. The passenger side exhaust fits great between the body. Both drivers side and passenger side exhaust run parallel to the body the same distance away and look great it just this one hang up with the top bolt hitting the body. Any suggestions and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81837&d=1519831022
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81831&d=1519831020
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81836&d=1519831022

Passenger side
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81833&d=1519831020

[WIS89]

Dave-

Your car looks great; really like that paint!

As far as the bolt, have you considered fabricating a small bracket, which you could mount to the bolt, and positioned so it moves the body out just slightly? It's pretty low tech, but I think it can be made fairly easily, and suit your goal. Hopefully I communicated my thought enough that it makes a little sense.

Regards,

Steve

[DavidW]

Dave-

Your car looks great; really like that paint!

As far as the bolt, have you considered fabricating a small bracket, which you could mount to the bolt, and positioned so it moves the body out just slightly? It's pretty low tech, but I think it can be made fairly easily, and suit your goal. Hopefully I communicated my thought enough that it makes a little sense.

Regards,

Steve

Thanks, That's a good idea but when the motor is running and the torque causes the engine to move on the mounts as designed I'd be afraid it would beat the body up. I was thinking about making something to attach to the footbox since its right next to that area just like the splash guard. The splash guard by itself does push the body off the exhaust slightly but I think the body will eventually win and lay back down on the exhaust. Unless the fiberglass body somehow releases the tension over time then it might be okay.

[DavidW]

I have the DS exhaust and body issue worked out, I hope. I used a wedge pump to push out the body and then fit in the new splash guard with bulb seal, removed the wedge pump and all is good.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83478&d=1522762792
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83479&d=1522762793
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83482&d=1522762795

I finally got the last part from the body shop jail and put it on, the scoop!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83483&d=1522765047

I had to make new splash guards for the front PS and DS, these tools plus a break at work helped out with that.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83486&d=1522765049

I ended up using the brass bolts in the top window channel to mount the visors and rear view mirror, I didn't want to possibly break the glass.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83484&d=1522765047

[DavidW]

The rear wheel splash guard fit good I only had to trim a little for a good fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83488&d=1522765559

Finally got around to making the panels for the trunk and the front of the rear wheel opening.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83490&d=1522765610
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83485&d=1522765048
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83489&d=1522765560

[TexasAviator]

My word David that is an incredible build. Well done.

[cgundermann]

LOVE the color scheme!

Chris

[DavidW]

Little by little getting done. Installed the brake boot. Got my under door carpet binding and decided to have it sewn on instead of relying on the adhesive it came with, didn't stick at all. I cut the rest of the binding off after getting it sewn on so I could glue it to the panels. Here is a pick of the front grommets installed. I received the wheel well liners, that's them under the carpet binding, they actually fit great, cant wait to install those.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84028&d=1523626704
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84032&d=1523626709
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84030&d=1523626707
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84031&d=1523626708
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84029&d=1523626706

[Boydster]

Hey Dave, I have a weeks Vaca coming up soon... Feel like a visitor for an afternoon? Love to see yer machine...

[DavidW]

Hey Dave, I have a weeks Vaca coming up soon... Feel like a visitor for an afternoon? Love to see yer machine...

Sure, sent you a PM.

[broku518]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83489&d=1522765560

Hi David,
Where is this going?

Thanks,
Martin

[DavidW]

Hi David,
Where is this going?

Thanks,
Martin

Its going in the back wheel well in front of the back wheels behind the door latch. I haven't installed them yet, I want to paint the underside with Herculiner prior to installing them and haven't done that yet.

[broku518]

Its going in the back wheel well in front of the back wheels behind the door latch. I haven't installed them yet, I want to paint the underside with Herculiner prior to installing them and haven't done that yet.

Thanks. I will add this to my list, plus the Herculiner.

[DavidW]

Still haven't painted the under-body yet but this section behind the door catch is where those small splash guards are going in the wheel well. The inside cockpit side need something to fill in the hole too, haven't decided what to do.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84363&d=1524168171

[DavidW]

Installed the splash guards at the front and back, installed the remaining carpet under the door the binding made a big difference with the fit and finish of that under door carpet. I do have the Dark Water Custom aluminum trim that goes on the body under the door but not sure if I'll install it. I still need to make and install the panels around the radiator and install the wheel well liners, I might install the liners in the winter time.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85157&d=1525091132
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85158&d=1525091150

Filled the tank and found the seal around the sender leaked, what a nightmare...had to remove fuel then the sender and replace the seal, hopefully that will do it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85156&d=1525091124

[DavidW]

FYI, here is a great tool to use to hold the wheel spinner center section while installing the spinner. Small suction cup on a toothbrush, I had to get my son a new tooth brush afterwards, haha. Now I have a kids toothbrush in my toolbox, awesome!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85160&d=1525093900

[Boydster]

Its lookin great, Dave!

[DavidW]

I went to my first car show this past Saturday, was threatened by rain all day even felt some drops but it held out. My wife and son arrived shortly after the t-ball game and yesterday we were surprised to find our picture in the local Bay Times news paper. My son cant stop staring at the car, feels awesome!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85608&d=1525957533

[Jacob]

Great color choices! You’ve done well!

[DavidW]

Great color choices! You’ve done well!

Thank you!

[DavidW]

Bad news, just got word from the Maryland Inspection station, the Inspection Supervisor said that I need self cancelling turn signals and windshield wipers....and the wipers cannot be manual. What a kick in the sack.

[mistasherm]

David, was this at the DMV or a local shop conducting the registration inspection?

[DavidW]

I decided to install the signal dynamics self cancel turn signal module, it was pretty easy. Removed the turn signal relay and made a jumper for constant power, then removed my existing turn signal switch and replaced with a momentary spring to center toggle switch and connected signal dynamics module just on the backside of switch, works great just as advertised.

Next I installed the windshield wipers, yes they are ugly but hopefully they will allow me to pass inspection.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86658&d=1528110727
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86659&d=1528110736

[RickP]

Car is looking great David. Sounds like your getting the shiv per inspection. I did the same route as you in regards to the wipers. Pricey little suckers but it got me past the goal line. I went thru great lengths to mount the wipers (I only needed one) to switched power, inspector never even turned the unit on. Grrrrrrr.

[cv2065]

Colors look great David. Makes me rethink what I'm looking to do. Good luck with the inspection. We lived in Maryland for about a year before returning to Florida. I don't miss the inspection thing.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Are they going to require you to have 4 way hazard flashers? If so shoot me a message and I'll tell you how to do it when using a single on/off/on momentary toggle like you have.

Jeff

[DavidW]

Car is looking great David. Sounds like your getting the shiv per inspection. I did the same route as you in regards to the wipers. Pricey little suckers but it got me past the goal line. I went thru great lengths to mount the wipers (I only needed one) to switched power, inspector never even turned the unit on. Grrrrrrr.
Thanks, yeah the hoops we have to jump through. Bad thing is I had it inspected on May 1st when I got my temp tag, they didn't process it until the 18th and didn't tell me I needed wipers or auto cancel turn signals until the 22nd after bugging them the entire time. I ordered the parts and went to Florida for a week... rained the entire time, got back did the installation and now I need to put it in a trailer and take it back for re-inspection because of my expired tags. Fun, fun, fun.


Colors look great David. Makes me rethink what I'm looking to do. Good luck with the inspection. We lived in Maryland for about a year before returning to Florida. I don't miss the inspection thing.
Thanks, the color decision was made by selecting only from Ford colors so that limited it for me a little.


Are they going to require you to have 4 way hazard flashers? If so shoot me a message and I'll tell you how to do it when using a single on/off/on momentary toggle like you have.
No hazards per the conversation with the inspector, but I guess anything can happen. I get it re-inspected later today and I'll let you know.

[DavidW]

PASSED INSPECTION !

Here I come, almost graduation time.

[cv2065]

Congrats!!!!:cool:

[WIS89]

David-

That's awesome news! Gotta love MD.

I look forward to your graduation thread! Your car looks terrific, and I hope to see lots of pictures soon.

Glad the headache is over, and you will be able to enjoy the entire driving season!

Regards,

Steve

[TPM3]

Congratulations.

Now if it will only stop raining on the weekends. This is the 10th or 11th rainy weekend in the Annapolis area.

[mistasherm]

David - very nice work, beautiful car (love the color combo)! That will be a blast to drive on the Eastern Shore.

My 818 is getting dragged up to the "Skook" this weekend or next in preparation for our move back to PA.

[DavidW]

Well its been a while since I updated my build mostly because I've been having so much fun driving. I finally got exempt from emissions after a couple of visits to the VEIP station, so now I feel better.

I got the Dark Water Custom door trim and massaged it to fit but really didn't like how it looked so I just used the FFR supplied trim for the opening and it did help cover up the unpleasant view near the door latch. Installed Herbs door panels too.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89343&d=1532372467
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89344&d=1532372475
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89329&d=1532371313

I got the Everson radiator panel and horribly failed installing it, I got it stuck and ended up ruining it getting it out. Bent some radiator fins in the process, straightened them out as much as I could. I ended up just making the radiator panels just like I did with the splash guards.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89347&d=1532372544
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89346&d=1532372493
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89348&d=1532372556

I installed the Breeze top radiator panel, its nice and come powder coated black. Unfortunately I was in a rush during installation and half way through I realized I forgot to install the weather strip edging so I decided to install it after it was installed. During the installation of the weatherstripping I pinched my hand between the body and the radiator panel so I pulled it out fast and got a fiberglass splinter through my fingernail into the tip of my finger. It was embarrassing having to get it removed by an Orthopedic Surgeon.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89342&d=1532372458

[DavidW]

Got a new shifter knob and boot too.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89349&d=1532372565

[Boydster]

Aw, no pics of the fiberglass splinter thru the finger nail? :p

My brother bought me the same shift knob. I let him contribute something to the car and that's what the Boss is now sporting.

Looking good, man... down the home stretch!

[boat737]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79065&d=1515684367http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79063&d=1515684366

Hmmm.... Mirror image... or evil twin?

[carlewms]

David,

Very nice ... and encouraging. I am still in the Slick Sand phase ... this motivates me to get out there and do more sanding.

Carl

[DavidW]

Hmmm.... Mirror image... or evil twin?

Ha, we are brothers !!

[DavidW]

David,

Very nice ... and encouraging. I am still in the Slick Sand phase ... this motivates me to get out there and do more sanding.

Carl

Thanks. You will definitely have a huge sense of accomplishment once done, especially since you are doing the body work/paint... My hats off to you sir. Now get that bad boy done, you can sleep later!

[DavidW]

I received the Boig Motorsports quiet pipes and laid them out next to the FFR stainless. I think the bends in the pipes are a little different and the quiet pipes are a little longer. I got the silver ceramic coating and it seems to match the FFR headers that have the ceramic coat. There is a dent in the top of the passenger side pipe and both have rust between the 4 pipes right out of the box. I'm going to live with these flaws and move on, I just don't have the time or patience to deal with vendors these days to make things right. I'll get some noise reading with a dosimeter I got from Amazon to compare the two.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96529&d=1540817683
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96530&d=1540817698

[DavidW]

Resurrecting this build thread even though the "build" was finished prior to realizing the exhaust is very loud and getting the Boig pipes. I should probably do the graduation thing and get some good pics for the contest of the month...anyway. I ended up not using the Boig pipes and sold them. Still using the FFR stainless exhaust and using ear plugs.

I had a problem with my rear axle leaking again, first the pinion seal leaked when I filled it up with fluid for the first time now the drivers side seal leaked at 2,500 miles. Installed new axle bearing and seals took care of the leaks.

My brake fluid reservoir had fluid coming out of the top hole of the lid after 2,000 miles. I didn't notice it coming out of my clutch fluid reservoir. Everyone was telling me I had air in the brake system. I bleed the brakes a bunch of times, got the Mityvac and the Motive pressure bleeder and still fluid would come out of the lid hole. Then my brake pedal started to push to the floor on occasion, very irregular so I was told again air in the system caused that. I just couldn't get the air out of the system so I switched the brake reservoir to one that had a diaphragm and still had the same problem. After a bunch of searching on the internet I realized it could be a bad brake master cylinder so I replaced both front and back brake master cylinders. Not the most pleasant thing to accomplish working on a finished car through the small hole on the top of the drivers side foot box but its done. Turned out it was a bad front master cylinder, no fluid leaks, the seals inside the cylinder went bad.

I got the brakes back to working and that felt great, got the monkey off my back. I wanted a new start, I changed the engine oil, filter and went to put fresh fluid in the rear differential so I took the diff cover off and noticed the carrier shims on the drivers side walking out....WTF. So I had to take care of that. I never really acknowledged how bad rear diff oil smells and how it can get into your skin and stay for awhile. Its all fixed now and everything is cleaned up but every once in a while I think I get a whiff of that diff oil. I think I've had enough problem with this Forte rear, not that its his fault but wow...I only have 3,000 miles on the car. Should have bought the Moser, new rear but I had to save money in the beginning....haha.

I need to do some small paint correction on the body next to the brake reservoirs, yup I got brake fluid on it and fowled up the clear coat. Its always something...

Here are some pictures during my finding and solving problems. I never really kept a good build log like others but what little I have its nice to look back on. I'm very grateful to FFR for providing this product, its given me a lot of fulfilling, frustrating, and humbling experiences I will never forget. I enjoy sharing it with my son who was only 3 years old when I got the kit, he has grown learning to appreciate that car, we have had some fun times at car shows. I must admit he has only gone to 2 shows, its a long day for a kid that little but hey we received trophies on those 2 days so he is my good luck charm.

I've learned how to operate my GoPro so I'm going to try and post some fun videos too.

[DavidW]

Leaking lid of FFR brake fluid reservoir, no diaphragm. Bad master cylinder caused this.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108660&d=1560176673

Got these from FFR nice new with diaphragms, welded tabs to replace my reservoirs that don't have diaphragms. My weld caused the seam to fail and leak. I bought 2 new ones and am going to sell them. I decided to use different type of reservoir.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109912&d=1561993133

Here's the new reservoir decided to go with.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117845&d=1574349232

[DavidW]

I forgot to mention, I installed the grills from Breeze.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103980&d=1552914583

[DavidW]

Cars & Coffee at Annapolis City Docks is awesome!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88620&d=1531163281

[DavidW]

Got caught in my first and so far only rain storm, it rained buckets for about 15 minutes. A car behind me crashed into the median, was a scary day then the sun cam out and everything was dry.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92672&d=1536152856
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92667&d=1536152795

[DavidW]

Had to change my battery cable, the 4 gauge wire FFR supplied caused hesitation in starting, took me a while to figure that out. My starter had requirements for wire size and length so I upgraded.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127079&d=1587737740
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127080&d=1587737742
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127085&d=1587737765

[DavidW]

It was very unpleasant changing my brake master cylinders through this little hole.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127081&d=1587737758

[DavidW]

First car show, threatened to rain all day.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127078&d=1587737737

[DavidW]

Some more pics from Annapolis cars & cofee.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127084&d=1587737763
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127083&d=1587737761

[DavidW]

Had a nice time in Easton MD that day.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127082&d=1587737759

[Boydster]

Lookin Good, Dave. Wish I could join ya... dont know if you saw, but I moved to Tennessee about 2 months ago. But maybe 2 Sterling Gray F5's shouldn't be seen together anyways... ;)