Putting together a parts list, advice welcome

[Hiram33]

In a nutshell I'm painfully new to the building side of this endeavor. However, ever since I was a kid and saw ZZ Tops Eliminator? Car I've been in love with hot rods. Grills, fenders, slick paint, low stance, everything. But I digress. Being so green at this I figure it's probably smarter to get complete assemblies instead of cobbling together parts or gutting a donor vehicle.

FF states all we need to finish the build is an engine, transmission, rear end and wheels/tires. While simplistic, is it accurate? Is there a more detailed parts list? Keep in mind I've never done this before. Still trying to talk my boss into giving me time to go to the class, lol.

Here's what I have so far:
Engine - ATK 302 GT40 350hp Stage 3 or ATK 351W 385HP Stage 3

Transmission - ford-racing-tremec-6-speed-transmission

Rear end - Ford Racing 8.8 in. Traction-Lok Rear Axle Assembly 3.55:1

I assume I'll need a bell housing, flywheel, clutch kit?, rear disk brakes, wheel/tires, and what else?

[wallace18]

I highly suggest buying the Boyd gas tank. IMO a much better unit and less chance of leaks.

[Hiram33]

Can you use an in tank pump or is it external like the FF one?

[erlihemi]

I highly recommend the build class to "feel out" what your comfort level is. Order the CD manual first and read it over. The kit is fairly complete and you can get the optional brakes at a reasonable price during a sale. Crate motors, tranny, and rear are your options.

[DaveSL33]

I just started my build as well. The best advice I can offer is to read through both FF5 forums and get to know some of the builders who can share their experiences, and those who have come up with the parts that will complement your build to make it easier, improve performance and reliability.

Although the kit includes just about everything you need, I took a path that most have shared in their experiences to make it "my" hot rod. Here's a short list of what I sourced through the forums for my build.

Boyd Fuel Tank (Just do it!)
- Factory Five 33 Hot Rod EFI (stealth 340)
- 1/2" NPT FTA Roll Over Safety Vent
- 0-90 OHM Fuel Level Sending Unit

Kugel Komponents
- Dual reservoir remote master cylinder (Decided to mount better looking reservoirs on firewall)

Forte Parts Connection
- 8.8 rear axle assembly 3:55 Ratio with 31 spline axles

Summit Racing
- Differential Cover: Ford Racing M-4033-G2

Innovative Rodding
- Adjustable four link arms (Upper and lower) This kit is far superior over the factory 4-link and will allow adjustability to center the rear wheel.

Southern Rods
- Power Windows WWK-2 2 Speed Windshield Wiper Kit

Specialty Power Windows
- Wiper transmission bezel
- Stainless steel wiper blades

Kootenai Valley Customs
- Firewall hood pin receivers
- Trunk gas strut lift kit
- Fuel tank sill plate
- Wheel well sealing panel
- Interior front foot box panels
- Secondary steering shaft seal
- Door bushing kit

Still to purchase
- Engine
- Transmission
- Wheels and tires
- Dakota VHX gauge package

[Hiram33]

I'm looking to do the build class. Does FF do the sales or are you referring to offsite vendors?

[Hiram33]

And thanks guys. You've been very helpful.

[myjones]

And thanks guys. You've been very helpful.

That was a pretty good list, I would add one thing on the Boyd tank though. Have them put two vent fittings on it instead of the standard one. You can tee them later or block
one off but at least you have the option. The Boyd tank is good but it can't fix the problem of the tank sitting too high in the chassis. An extra vent is the best band-aid for
that issue and it's cheap insurance IMO
Dale


The build school is set up by FF and is available through a link on FF's website , it's worth the time and money<>do it before you order so you can get the rebate.

[68GT500MAN]

I am using the tank supplied by FFR and have had NO problems. The only leaks that I have read about were caused by the seals not being properly installed. I do like the Boyd tank, and many have used it, but the supplied one works for me and I put the money in other items.
Doug

[DaveSL33]

A couple of other parts that I would also recommend are the fan shroud and interior aluminum firewall plate from Replica Parts.

[erlihemi]

I'm going to go out on a limb and list the parts I think FFR should upgrade so we can actually spend less money on the build. While it may increase initial cost slightly these components cost us double to change out. This list is based on similar comments I'm seeing on many posts in addition to my own biased assessment.
1) Fuel tank - high rate of exchange - offer a delete
2) Exhaust - especially mufflers- offer a delete
3) Brake fluid reservoirs - functional but disappointing-
4) Koni coil overs - really should have an option for better valving and softer rear springs
5) E-Brake with driver available adjuster and tougher handle (Drifters know why)
6) Coolant catch can - too small
7) Just one half inch less back space on front wheels - really- Peoples Republic of China?
8) Real circle track rebuildable upper ball joints, QA1 makes them
9) Adjustable lower links with 3 link kit so we can center the axle correctly
10) I still don't like the last U-Joint to the steering rack and I've tried a different one.

[In33anity]

I'm going to go out on a limb and list the parts I think FFR should upgrade so we can actually spend less money on the build. While it may increase initial cost slightly these components cost us double to change out. This list is based on similar comments I'm seeing on many posts in addition to my own biased assessment.
1) Fuel tank - high rate of exchange - offer a delete
2) Exhaust - especially mufflers- offer a delete
3) Brake fluid reservoirs - functional but disappointing-
4) Koni coil overs - really should have an option for better valving and softer rear springs
5) E-Brake with driver available adjuster and tougher handle (Drifters know why)
6) Coolant catch can - too small
7) Just one half inch less back space on front wheels - really- Peoples Republic of China?
8) Real circle track rebuildable upper ball joints, QA1 makes them
9) Adjustable lower links with 3 link kit so we can center the axle correctly
10) I still don't like the last U-Joint to the steering rack and I've tried a different one.

Erlihemi,
FFR is very good about the deletes. I ordered a very trimmed down stage 1 kit without Fuel System (including the tank!), Exhaust, Motor Mounts, Driveshaft, Rear Suspension, Wiring Harness, and a few more. In retrospect, should have left out the cooling system too. I then added the body from the stage 2 so I'd be able to accurately do mock-ups.--I

[myjones]

I'm going to go out on a limb and list the parts I think FFR should upgrade so we can actually spend less money on the build. While it may increase initial cost slightly these components cost us double to change out. This list is based on similar comments I'm seeing on many posts in addition to my own biased assessment.
1) Fuel tank - high rate of exchange - offer a delete
2) Exhaust - especially mufflers- offer a delete
3) Brake fluid reservoirs - functional but disappointing-
4) Koni coil overs - really should have an option for better valving and softer rear springs
5) E-Brake with driver available adjuster and tougher handle (Drifters know why)
6) Coolant catch can - too small
7) Just one half inch less back space on front wheels - really- Peoples Republic of China?
8) Real circle track rebuildable upper ball joints, QA1 makes them
9) Adjustable lower links with 3 link kit so we can center the axle correctly
10) I still don't like the last U-Joint to the steering rack and I've tried a different one.

You just made a pretty good list of things that should be offered on a MK2 33
I would add a better battery placement for size issues and a dropped trunk floor where the tank sits.
DB

[erlihemi]

I n DB, Agreed, but I felt 10 items was enuff for one post! on the upside there's this list:
1) add a bay to the garage
2) Install a "clean" room
3) get the 16 piece Milwaukee 18V power tool set
4) move the ammo bench upstairs
5) buy a big press
6) put a winch on the gator
7) finish the tow vehicle (1958 D100)
8) Epoxy the floor
9) Add another radiant heat zone
10) oh yeah, get stage 2!

[erlihemi]

1) Added the bay but concrete will wait
2) "clean room" almost done...
3) Waiting for Santa
4) Moved it and used it
5) deferred
6) took winch off to put plow on...bad design
7) The "lassie truck" needs a helper
8) Half done
9) now I need a bigger boiler...
10) last but not least, picked up stage 2 and toured the factory!!

[erlihemi]

Other than the top 10, something else occurred to me that purchasers of single stages don't get quite the correct part mix in all cases. Since I took Hiram33' post hostage maybe we can help with a list of what should be in stage 1 kit that isn't. A few people do purchase the stage 1 separately for either space or budget reasons. My top 2 of what's not in Stage 1 kit...that need to be.
1) Bicycle fender mounts - really need those installed early, even if you don't by bike fenders...
2) Entire exhaust - need exhaust before installing floor pans and routing plumbing to do it right.

Things you don't need...
1) probably don't need the wire harness until body is going on...debatable for go karting... I have a simple ignition.

[Shoeless]

Great list of additions and extra things to do in preparation for the build. Myself, I'm still in the initial stages of planning and prepping the garage for receiving an entire build kit. Half the floor is epoxied, the other half will be done after new years. this has been a hell of a project in itself. I had two layers of paint and the I believe the bottom was a xylene (sp?) base. Took me some trial and error, but Behr chemical paint stripper worked well, other than costing a boat load.

[maczter]

Other than the top 10, something else occurred to me that purchasers of single stages don't get quite the correct part mix in all cases. Since I took Hiram33' post hostage maybe we can help with a list of what should be in stage 1 kit that isn't. A few people do purchase the stage 1 separately for either space or budget reasons. My top 2 of what's not in Stage 1 kit...that need to be.
1) Bicycle fender mounts - really need those installed early, even if you don't by bike fenders...
2) Entire exhaust - need exhaust before installing floor pans and routing plumbing to do it right.

Things you don't need...
1) probably don't need the wire harness until body is going on...debatable for go karting... I have a simple ignition.

The grill does not come with the Stage 1 either.