Randy Jones
04-16-2011, 02:05 PM
Hi all,
When I first built the car, I decided on an automatic for personal reasons. With that, I installed what I thought was going to be a good torque converter but it turned out to have a the stall speed too low for the engine.
As a result, it lugged the engine down at idle in gear and I usually end up shifting to neutral when I come to a stop sign, etc.
I noticed today that the front seal on the trans is leaking so it all has to come out to replace. It's finally time to install the right torque converter.
What I'm looking for is a way to figure out exactly what torque converter I need because I'd like to have one built (or buy one off the shelf if that's possible) that is perfect the first time.
Thoughts are welcome.
Here's the engine and car specs. If something else is important in the equation, let me know and I'll post it.
Engine:
.030 over 350 with a stroker crank. 5.7 rods 388 or so cubic inch SBC
AFR 195 heads
compression 10.7:1 (I'm told)
Comp Cams Cam:
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,500-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 244
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 244
Duration at 050 inch Lift 244 int./244 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 292
Advertised Exhaust Duration 292
Advertised Duration 292 int./292 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.501 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.501 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.501 int./0.501 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
Holley DZ replica hi-rise intake (69 Z28 replica)
Holley 750 Street Avenger vacuum secondary carb
Trans:
Hardened but stock geared Art Carr TH700R4 4 speed auto 3.06 first gear
I don't remember what the specs on the current converter are unfortunately.
Car:
3:55's rear end gears
2350 lbs
17x10.5 with 315-35-17s (whatever that tire height calculates to)
The car idles about 950 and I will have lockup in it.
Looking for stock car like qualities at the stop lights with regard to how much the trans drags the engine down.
Thoughts guys?
Thanks!
Randy :)
When I first built the car, I decided on an automatic for personal reasons. With that, I installed what I thought was going to be a good torque converter but it turned out to have a the stall speed too low for the engine.
As a result, it lugged the engine down at idle in gear and I usually end up shifting to neutral when I come to a stop sign, etc.
I noticed today that the front seal on the trans is leaking so it all has to come out to replace. It's finally time to install the right torque converter.
What I'm looking for is a way to figure out exactly what torque converter I need because I'd like to have one built (or buy one off the shelf if that's possible) that is perfect the first time.
Thoughts are welcome.
Here's the engine and car specs. If something else is important in the equation, let me know and I'll post it.
Engine:
.030 over 350 with a stroker crank. 5.7 rods 388 or so cubic inch SBC
AFR 195 heads
compression 10.7:1 (I'm told)
Comp Cams Cam:
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,500-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 244
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 244
Duration at 050 inch Lift 244 int./244 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 292
Advertised Exhaust Duration 292
Advertised Duration 292 int./292 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.501 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.501 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.501 int./0.501 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
Holley DZ replica hi-rise intake (69 Z28 replica)
Holley 750 Street Avenger vacuum secondary carb
Trans:
Hardened but stock geared Art Carr TH700R4 4 speed auto 3.06 first gear
I don't remember what the specs on the current converter are unfortunately.
Car:
3:55's rear end gears
2350 lbs
17x10.5 with 315-35-17s (whatever that tire height calculates to)
The car idles about 950 and I will have lockup in it.
Looking for stock car like qualities at the stop lights with regard to how much the trans drags the engine down.
Thoughts guys?
Thanks!
Randy :)