Log in

View Full Version : gtm power windows



jeffdoss
09-23-2014, 03:37 PM
I bought a GTM two years ago, and just recently the power windows quit working. I found that the drivers switch broke in the up position. I replaced the switch, (actually I changed both of them). The windows still don't operate from the switch. I took the switches out and used a jumper from a 12 volt power supply and was able to make the windows go up and down thru the connector, but not using the switches. The switches light up, so I know they are getting some power, but they don't power the windows.. Is there anyone out there that built a GTM that can tell me what to look for next?

Is there a way that the switches can light up, but not provide power to the window motors?

I have the manual and it mentions two remaining power wires, but doesn't say what is their color.. I take it that its the two red ones that are spliced to the yellow power wires from the chassis harness, would this be where the window motors get their power from?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

xatudor
09-23-2014, 11:56 PM
Let me start by stating I don't have a GTM (yet). From the information it sounds like the 12V is currently going to the lights on the switches which should be wired to come on when the dash lights/park lights are on. There will usually be another 12V supply to the switches that is only 12V when the ignition is on, this is the one that should powers the windows. This wire goes to the common terminal of the switch. You may have to use a multimeter to work this out unless you have the wiring diagram for the switches. If the red wires don't have 12V on them when the ignition is on you may have a blown fuse, if you have the wiring diagram you should be able to find where the yellow wire is fed from and check the fuse.
I hope this helps.

jeffdoss
09-25-2014, 04:27 PM
That helps a ton! I was thinking it had to be along those lines... there is a line in the assembly manual that says "Run the two remaining power and ground wires back into the driver footbox and splice the red wire into both of the two yellow power window wires from the chassis harness. The chassis harness is fused, so the extra in-line fuse can be removed".

It looks like I have to find where the two yellow power window wires are at the harness and check for continuity and then try the multimeter to see if they get power with the key on... hopefully either the inline fuse was removed, or if it isnt, thats where the problem is!

The problem is that its to tight in this car its very hard to trace the wires. They actually go thru the chassis....

Thanks for the info!!