Running the brake lines

[FFRSpec72]

I'm getting ready to run my brake tubing and have a couple of questions:

1. Why are the brake lines run through the drivers foot box and not around the outside of the foot box?
2. Has anyone done the brake lines w/o connectors (bought new line) ?
3. Has anyone put the proportioning valve in the cockpit area and not in the default FFR location (in front of the brake and clutch master)

[matteo92065]

good questions.
I saved all my donor brake lines for the connectors. I want to try to install ABS. Others have said the Copper-Nickel brake lines bends and flairs nicely.
I also want to put the proportioning valve inside the car.

[Goldwing]

1. I ran mine in the same cutout the cooling tubes go through next to the footbox. I thought that was FFR's plan, but I forget now. I ran a line down each side because I'm doing ABS (no tees).

2. I bought a coil of the more bendy hard line. I think the stuff mentioned above. So, yes. One coil (25'?) took care of both rear brake lines and most of the clutch. I then used the appropriate fittings to forego the adapters. This does mean flaring though. I used the supplied lines up front, but as before used metric fittings and reflared.

3. Good idea. Never occurred to me. It does mean a bit more plumbing. I put mine (2, due to ABS) near their corresponding front wheels for easy access with the hood open. I guess once they're set, that should be it, but having cockpit access would be nice. You can see pics of what I did on the first two pages of my build thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13026-Goldwing-s-818-Street-The-Phoenix).

[wleehendrick]

Wilwood makes a remote knob for the prop valve, so you don't have to run the brake lines into the cockpit. I think Chad put one in his R.

[D Clary]

I ran the lines for clutch and brake along the drivers side cooling tubes. I crossed over to the right side rear brakes with a "t' in front of the gas tank.3357333574 The proportioning valve is in front of the shifter in the console.

[fact5racer]

Wouldn't it make more sense to get the cable setup that attaches to the bias rod in the wilwood pedal assembly for cockpit control of brake bias?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm getting ready to run my brake tubing and have a couple of questions:

1. Why are the brake lines run through the drivers foot box and not around the outside of the foot box?
2. Has anyone done the brake lines w/o connectors (bought new line) ?
3. Has anyone put the proportioning valve in the cockpit area and not in the default FFR location (in front of the brake and clutch master)

1. If you go around, the tire would hit the brake line. If you go under the ground would hit the brake line. I went through the middle tunnel.
On the R you could keep the brake line high and not got through the pedal box. On the S you cannot put the brake line through the door.
2. A lot have bought the correct metric brake line fittings and made everything metric. I used http://store.fedhillusa.com/22nutpack.aspx
3. With Subaru OEM brakes the prop. valve is used to reduce front wheel lockup. I am going with big brakes in rear and trying to avoid the proportioning valve all together. I'll let you know how it works out.
As you are a pure racer, I suspect you will be using the wildwood setup with the adjustable bar and no proportioning valve.
Bob

Edit: use a eastwood or equivalent flaring tool. Ask me how I know

[Mechie3]

I tried making solid run lines without connectors but couldn't. The shapes required to run lines as FFR has doesn't allow you to make them one piece.

[D Clary]

You can reduce the number of splices but there are just places you cant slide 4 feet of bent tubing through.

[FFRSpec72]

Wouldn't it make more sense to get the cable setup that attaches to the bias rod in the wilwood pedal assembly for cockpit control of brake bias?

Depends on where you want the valve, Chad put his on dash, I like mine on console (as that is where it is on my challenge car), the remote cable will not work for putting this on the console.

[FFRSpec72]

I tried making solid run lines without connectors but couldn't. The shapes required to run lines as FFR has doesn't allow you to make them one piece.

Bummer, I just hate connections, have them on my challenge car and never had an issue, they just look ugly.

[longislandwrx]

I ran the rear brakes and clutch down the middle of the console. I wanted the firewall to look neat. most of the lines are hidden.

[thall818]

I have a friend building an 818 here locally. He doesn't have a build thread, but like you has run the brake lines down the tunnel. He took it a step further and to cut to cut unsprung weight, pulled all of the parking brake components off his axles and used one these in line:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141244896388?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

cool idea. He's carting now and says it works great.

[Mechie3]

I have a splice at the firewalls (front and rear). Found it easiest to put them there.

I like the hydraulic handle, but if the primary brakes fail, your E-brake has failed too. I'd rather have two separate systems. The R8 puts a secondary smaller brake caliper on the rear for parking.

http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/xola3que/brakes/DSC06187.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

I'm leaning on routing different than FFR (down center and tee in front of fuel cell and out to each side and then back through the rear firewall, also have the clutch line do the same but at the fuel cell turn to drivers side and then back.

1. What do folks recommend as brake line (brand/type) ? 3/16 ?
2. What fittings do I need to avoid using the adapters that FFR has you use ? I assume that metric fittings 10x1mm? do thee fit the 3/16 line?
3. I assume clutch and brake hard line is same size? 3/16 ?

[Goldwing]

I'm leaning on routing different than FFR (down center and tee in front of fuel cell and out to each side and then back through the rear firewall, also have the clutch line do the same but at the fuel cell turn to drivers side and then back.

1. What do folks recommend as brake line (brand/type) ? 3/16 ?
2. What fittings do I need to avoid using the adapters that FFR has you use ? I assume that metric fittings 10x1mm? do thee fit the 3/16 line?
3. I assume clutch and brake hard line is same size? 3/16 ?

Regarding the tee in front of the fuel tank, that will work fine, but if you are bigger than average, I recommend working out the seating and firewall position before committing. I was looking for every inch of space in that area for seating and might have wished I hadn't put brake lines there if I did. Angling the line so it sits below the 1" tube that sits in the front of the fuel tank tray should keep it out of the way, but working out those details will help you decide your routing.

Yes to 1&2&3. Sorry, I don't have a brand to offer, but I am glad I got the bendier hard line. I think nickel-copper or something? It wasn't steel and came in a 25 or 50' coil. I think there are like 2 common options, steel & what I got. Being bendier and more forgiving, it helped avoid a few joints when snaking it through a couple tight spots.

[tmoretta]

If you are incorporating the ABS system you have to run separate lines to the front brakes separated by a proportioning valve between the ABS unit and the two front calipers.

[longislandwrx]

Tony,

to ditch the adapters:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14164-Brake-line-adapters&highlight=metric+brake+fittings

[custome]

Ok, your welder is back from vacation, did you get your exhaust finished yet?

[Goldwing]

Ok, your welder is back from vacation, did you get your exhaust finished yet?

I was wondering if you'd have to respond to that, lol. I just found an extension to create the staggered tip look, but didn't actually put the stagger on yet. Since it is mostly together, we could weld it either at your place or mine.

[GWL]

When I ran the lines in my roadster I tried to think of the worst case scenario.

What if a line got hit by something(road debris) and I had to replace it?

It is much easier to make shorter lines than one long complicated line that fits through the footbox. It may be somewhat easier to fit in when building the car but once it's done, can that line be replaced?

What if I had to remove the master or any other part and had a long brake line that was in the way?

On my car just about every line, brake or other has a fitting at the footbox so I have a positive seal at that point. This results in my brake lines having a junction at the footbox wall. Much easier to set up and easier to replace if needed.

I used the copper/nickel line from FedHill. Great stuff to work with and can be polished up to give a good bronze look. I have also worked with the stuff from Autozone with little success. It tends to crush easier when making double flairs. I did some detailed measuring and 'I think' the line from Autozone is a bit thinner and thus crushed easier leaving me with uneven flairs. No problem with the FedHill line.

I also did my 3/8" fuel lines with the copper/nickel line from FedHill.

George