Door Windows

[PapaBear]

Has anyone adapted the 65 Coupe doors for roll-up windows?

[crabbdaddy]

been thinking the same for a while now... i know one person posted on youtube what he created wit htinted lexan in 2012 ... but seems that was all that was posted... no more info that i can find! http://youtu.be/YVAhqXw87gs

[PapaBear]

I'd like to see if the window frame from my 240z would be adaptable or at least an example.

[JAE]

Hi Guys

I believe one of the forum vendors was working on a kit for roll up widows, as I recall,you had to send him your doors and he did all of the modifications - and sent them back to you. I haven't heard anything about it in a couple of years, so I don't know if it ever worked out. As I remember, it was somewhat pricey. Sorry that I can't remember who the vendor was.

I had the same idea as PapaBear, find something close from a production car and adapt it to the coupe.

Thanks John

[Carlos C]

The person from the other forum who came up with the power window set-up, mentioned that it was very labor-intensive, as he had to modify the door, the door frame, and the power window mechanism. He also claimed that he didn't keep any records of what parts he used, any measurements, or modifications (which I find hard to believe).

Levy Racing is the vendor who has been working on a set-up for a few years now. When I reached out to Gordon Levy a few months ago, he mentioned that his kit was not ready yet, and that it was somewhat in the back burner for the time being.

At this point, I may have to come up with my own design.

Carlos

[mjazzka]

Power windows will be one of my goals in my build. Luckily, I have a little experience in window motors and fixing them. While I imagine it will be a ton of work, I'm willing to bet you could get all the parts dirt cheap at a junkyard or from a donor. Heck the mustang parts might even work...

[Plebeian]

I like this idea http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12655-Type-65-question-power-windows&p=131201#post131201

[tirod]

I'm of the mind we are working at it backwards - trying to shovel in the bits to make the existing door accept a window mechanism, instead of using an existing door and fitting it to the Coupe.

Plenty of street and hot rodders have had doors cut to fit, or even fabricated from scratch to conform to a chopped top or revised windscreen angle, much less equipped with reversed hinges for a "suicide door" operation.

With a donor door, all the winder mechanism, etc is already scienced out and proven factory engineered. What remains is hanging it on hinges, a latch, etc. Yes, the glass could be a challenge, but we're already used to plexiglass or others. The existing outer skin would need to be fixed onto the door.

Since most windows are hung from the inside sheetmetal, the exterior skin is just a stiffener for our purposes. The hardest part of the whole exercise would be choosing which donor door. Even if the door required sectioning to get it to fit into the opening, it's still easier work to rejoin than calculate all the coach work of how the slides brackets and winder have to fit.

Taking that last point, the interior panel is what most of the window hangs from . . . and may be all that is needed. Once installed, it seems that it would stiffen the door box as it reinforces it by closing up the hole.

Point being, instead of considering all the monkey motion of installing the slides, etc into the kit door, it might be a lot easier to consider how to install the kit door around a working window assembly.

It's about perspective.

[Gbeck]

Now that I have my kit this is one of the first goals I'm going after. First I installed the psgr door as per the manual, just to understand how it's supposed to work. Next I installed the drvr door without the skin. From what I've learned I think this is doable, but it's a bunch of work.
SpecialtyPowerWindows.com carries most of the parts and there's a local hot rod shop (Posie's) that cuts glass and does window glass.
Here the plan:
Mount the door hinge in its most outboard position.
Relocate the striker outboard 2" and rearward about 1".
The door frame needs to be extended about 1" and the lower rail should be shifted outboard about 1" to accommodate the bottom of the window track.
The window track and frame could be built from U-channel such as part # UC-1 From SPW. This track and frame would be attached to the inboard side of the door frame and extend up to the flange above the door and run parallel to the A pillar.
The forward part of the window area could be taken up by a vent window or a blank panel with a rear view mirror attached.
The mounting of the door skin to the frame would be totally different. Probably remove the entire inner panel, slip it on from the outside, and fasten to the frame at front and rear.

Whew! After all that, glass and a motor oughta be a no-brainer!

[Sydney Chris]

Am not far from starting my doors as well.. (wiring is killing my timeline at the moment). Thanks for posting... would love to see some pics too please... :)

Cheers

Chris

[Gbeck]

I got dimensions for the '66 Mustang vent window from a friend and made up a template. No way it's gonna fit. It's about 1-1/2" too tall and the rake is off by a good bit.
If anybody knows of a car with a vent window that is under 12" tall and close to the rake of the coupe windshield, I'd love to hear about it!

[Gbeck]

I'm looking down a very deep rabbit hole!

After way too many hours and several templates I think I've worked out the geometry for a window track in the coupe that just might work. It probably still needs some tweaking, and I don't know HOW to DO it all yet. But its a start.

Here's a little discussion if you're interested. Pictures to follow.

I'm limiting myself to flat glass and "universal" mechanisms. Curved glass like used in most OEM applications could make for a better fit. But the search for just the right donor car is not something I'm going to pursue. I doubt there's a donor out there that satisfies all of the constraints.

I'm planning for a framed window. I just think it's going to be easier to build the entire door track and window mechanism on the bench, and then bolt it onto the door. Then the fiddly work is getting the frame to seal to the body.

I'm planning for the rear quarter windows to be fixed glass with a thin pillar on the forward side. The door frame can seal against that pillar.

We are looking for about 12" of vertical window travel and the door cavity is about 14" deep. That leaves about 2" below the window for the mechanism. The usual cable-drive power window setups require 8-1/2". There is another version that requires 5-1/2". Neither of these will work for us. According to tech support at Specialty Power Windows a gear-drive power window mechanism (SPW part number 2416-U) should work. But with this mechanism the window path must be vertical. The glass can't angle rearward as it lifts.

The striker and door frame must move outboard about 2" to open up space for the window track on the inboard side. The striker must also be moved about 2" rearward to best allow for the vertical window track.

The door shell won't be mounted on the inboard side of the door frame. I'll probably make the inside of the door shell a removable panel, slide the door shell over the frame from outside, and make brackets to mount it to the door frame on the front and back.

The upper rear corner of the door frame (at the notch for the quarter window) is so far rearward that dropping vertically from it runs you straight into where the wheel well protrudes into the door opening. It's so far rearward that the door striker mount would be too close to the tire for comfort. My layout moves the window opening forward a bit giving a 3" pillar at the rear of the door. Everything should fit while allowing for a 28" diameter tire and a couple of inches clearance at full jounce.

Even with that wide pillar, the rear of the door opening and the door shell need a lot of work. I need to cut severely into the rear of the door opening to the point where the sill will probably be separated from the body. While I'm at it, I might as well drop the sill, eh?

I'm not real happy with a 3" pillar obstructing the view. I tried to make worst-case estimates on the unknowns and allowed for generous gaps. When I get real parts in my hands I'll try to reduce the pillar.

Comments appreciated ... but I already know that this is crazy and that it's supposed to be a track car. :-)

[Gbeck]

A few pictures of my layout on the passenger side of the car.

This shows the template. Here the frame edges are 1-1/2". The final product should be thinner. Yeah, I'm not happy with the 3" pillar!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7639/16235035694_b413301739_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qJCNuw)image001 (https://flic.kr/p/qJCNuw) by Limer98 (https://www.flickr.com/people/75061943@N06/), on Flickr



This calls for cutting into the door opening ... big-time!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7624/16671263079_0aaf928aba_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rpbzGk)image2 (https://flic.kr/p/rpbzGk) by Limer98 (https://www.flickr.com/people/75061943@N06/), on Flickr


The view from inside. I hope to improve on it.
(Pardon my deck-screw joinery!)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7641/16235034864_65274ba03f_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qJCNfd)image004 (https://flic.kr/p/qJCNfd) by Limer98 (https://www.flickr.com/people/75061943@N06/), on Flickr

[Gbeck]

I'm limiting myself to flat glass and "universal" mechanisms. Curved glass like used in most OEM applications could make for a better fit. But the search for just the right donor car is not something I'm going to pursue. I doubt there's a donor out there that satisfies all of the constraints.


On the other hand the GTM guys are using the Corvette window regulator, C5 I think.

[Gbeck]

I got a set of window regulators and window side channel from Specialty Power Windows. There is not enough vertical room in the door, so my first step is to lower the door sill to gain as much room as possible. I can pick up about 2" ... should be just enough.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/75061943@N06/sets/72157651586998488/

[Gbeck]

Power windows in the Coupe are definitely doable. But I'm proving that it's a ton of work. At least it seems so to a rookie like me. I'm cutting up the passenger door first. Here are links to my progress so far.

Mock up.
https://flickr.com/photos/75061943@N06/sets/72157652290371092

A window frame. And a door frame that didn't quite work out.
https://flickr.com/photos/75061943@N06/sets/72157651211907313

A prototype that will work. But I can already see ways to simplify and improve it.
https://flickr.com/photos/75061943@N06/sets/72157653118513619


I will need to work out a B pillar and back window soon. I wonder if Russ Thompson's window could be adapted.

[Gbeck]

I finished the mechanicals of a working power window. Yay! I did it pretty much as I outlined in my earlier post. I added photos to the "prototype" Flickr page that is linked in my previous post.
Now it's on to the body work for the door opening and the door skins. Ugh!
I'll post up a video after I get the body work done.

[mrjones944]

I got dimensions for the '66 Mustang vent window from a friend and made up a template. No way it's gonna fit. It's about 1-1/2" too tall and the rake is off by a good bit.
If anybody knows of a car with a vent window that is under 12" tall and close to the rake of the coupe windshield, I'd love to hear about it!

When I look at the coupe window I cant help but think a rear window assembly from a Jeep JK Wrangler might work with some trimming.

[steveyoung]

I've got some window parts that came with my coupe? I don't plan on using any of it, I like the skirts. There's a pic on my post about "new old coupe" sorry I wasn't able to load those pics. If anyone has interest pm me and I'll email them? Coat would be shipping plus very little

[Gbeck]

After a too long hiatus for several reasons I'm back at it. I'm working on the third version of the door frame for power windows. I learned a lot about many things in the earlier versions. I'm hoping this one goes a lot more smoothly, and I hope it's the final version.
To recap, I cut out a lot of the fiberglass that forms the door sill and the rear part of the door jamb that forms the rear wheel well. I'm dropping the door sill down as far as possible. And I'm taking the door jamb as far rearward as possible. I'm building a new door jamb (striker), a new door frame, and an adjustable window frame to accommodate the window track for the glass. The fiberglass door skin and door jamb will be rebuilt to fit the new framework. The gap between the hood and the pontoon will be lowered to match.

Check my Flickr album "010 - Door frame for power windows. Passenger side." for the latest pics.
https://flic.kr/s/aHskoZrZBn

[Lhshire]

What's the difference about how to fit roll up or powered side windows. It still going to leak when it rains! I have a type 65, drove it 7000miles for my break in run, had 5 days of rain on the way. When it stopped raining, I went to a car wash with vacuums and sucked out the water. No problem...

[Gbeck]

I completed the mockup on both the driver's and passenger's side. See this Flickr album for the details, including a quick video.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsktUPy3q


The next step is a lot of fiberglass work; a new door sill, door jamb and inner door skin.

[mtwarog]

Wow! That looks really good. Thanks for sharing.

-Matt

[Hankl]

Glenn deserves this for his experience with fiberglass!!

Raise your right hand and say after me,

"I (State your name), do swear/affirm, that upon acceptance of this "Revered Coupe Jacket", will willingly subject myself to all manner of frustration and abrasion that my FFR Type 65 will provide. I further pledge that any and all fellow Coupe builders will have free reign in using the cash available in my wallet as they see fit to improve my build plan. I will not look down upon our fellow Roadster builders, but rather take pity on those not talented enough to build a race car with a roof, So Help Me God!"



It is my pleasure to present you with the "Revered Coupe Jacket", Here's your sign!!

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w284/hankl_album/straight_jacket_backFS-1.jpg

Hank
:cool:

[70gtvert]

Made mine removable, very easy to do using the supplied parts. On and off in less then 3 minutes per side. Keep them off most of the time anyways and I don't drive in bad weather so......depends on what your going to be driving in I guess.

[Sydney Chris]

plenty in progress on the other website / build forum for these cars.. JimS will be the best build thread to follow..

[Gbeck]

I'm getting on with reconstruction of the new doors and door openings. Some pictures of recent progress here.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskNSeLVS

[Sydney Chris]

am most of the way through power windows.. JimS had a version that would suit if you dont need side impact protection frames.... both build logs are on the other FF forum.

[Gbeck]

I'm near the end of a long road to add power windows to a Type 65 Coupe ... the hard way! Below is a link to a Flickr photo album that documents the process. Have a look at the pictures and the read the descriptions to get a pretty complete picture of what I've been up to.

With this mod I will have a significantly larger door opening, power windows and door poppers. I'll be adding Russ Thompson's quarter windows too. It should be pretty sweet!

Many thanks to forum members Jim (The Wizard) and Sidney. I've been following your work and picked up several tips from you along the way. I hope you find something useful here.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsm6wnzxo

[wallace18]

That is looking great. Boy that is a ton of work!

[Gbeck]

That is looking great. Boy that is a ton of work!

I’m happy with where it’s going now. But I won’t be doing it again!

[slpro1207]

Congratulations on a great piece of engineering.