Requirements for a lift (Garage Mods)

[thedonva]

Hi - not sure if this is the best place to post this but I want to put in a lift but wonder what I need to do to mod my door and opener. I figure I need to change my rails so they go up along the ceiling? Anyone have any advice?

[skullandbones]

If you have the height in your garage, you can modify what you already have by adding a straight section just before the curve in the rail. I have a friend who had it done. He said it took the guy about 4 hours to finish. I believe he said $250 but that was some time ago. It can definitely be done without re-inventing the wheel so to speak.

Good luck,

WEK.

[Bob Cowan]

It's called a high lift mod. Most garage door companies know how to do them.

It changes this:
http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag13/BobsExocet/smallolddoor_zps99ba7714.jpg (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/BobsExocet/media/smallolddoor_zps99ba7714.jpg.html)

To this:
http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag13/BobsExocet/smallnewdoor_zps8759c2c7.jpg (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/BobsExocet/media/smallnewdoor_zps8759c2c7.jpg.html)

There are a number of steps involved:
- Extend the tracks.
-- The tracks have to be adjusted just right, so the top of the last panel seals against the top of the opening.
- add another panel to the top of the door. This allows the standard door opener to work correctly.
- Move the door opener over to one side.
- optionally, you can use a side lift opener, if you have the room. (I did not).
- Replace the spring to match the new weight of the door. You should not attempt this, unless you have the proper tools and know what you're doing. A garage door spring contains a lot of energy.
- If you're considering adding insulation, now is the time. It will add weight to the door.

It took two pros about 4 hours to get mine installed.

[myjones]

It's called a high lift mod. Most garage door companies know how to do them.
It changes this:
http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag13/BobsExocet/smallolddoor_zps99ba7714.jpg (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/BobsExocet/media/smallolddoor_zps99ba7714.jpg.html)
To this:
http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag13/BobsExocet/smallnewdoor_zps8759c2c7.jpg (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/BobsExocet/media/smallnewdoor_zps8759c2c7.jpg.html)
There are a number of steps involved:
- Extend the tracks.
-- The tracks have to be adjusted just right, so the top of the last panel seals against the top of the opening.
- add another panel to the top of the door. This allows the standard door opener to work correctly.
- Move the door opener over to one side.
- optionally, you can use a side lift opener, if you have the room. (I did not).
- Replace the spring to match the new weight of the door. You should not attempt this, unless you have the proper tools and know what you're doing. A garage door spring contains a lot of energy.
- If you're considering adding insulation, now is the time. It will add weight to the door.
It took two pros about 4 hours to get mine installed.

You don't always have to add another door panel, that was because of his opener type. The jack shaft openers don't need that done but like you said that takes side space on the end of the shaft. 8" on mine IIRC.
Besides changing spring size you usually have to change the cable drums to a step drum because the breakover weight changes at a different rate as the door climbs. Even if you do the work yourself it all has to be engineered by a door company that is supplying the parts. It is well worth the effort/expense though.
HTH
DB

[CraigS]

If you stick w/ your existing door you need longer cables and larger drums to be able to wind up that cable. This is because the door will now need to move further than it did before. Post this question on CACC to get recommendations for local door companies to work with. Also,assuming you have one of the regular door openers, your door opener mount will need to move upward. How high is your ceiling?

[Dan Babb]

I didn't have to modify my garage at all to effectively use my lift.

I have a 10' high ceiling and a 3 car garage. I put the lift on one side of the wider door. The car goes up to the ceiling before the garage door would hit the body. Because the door opener track is in the middle of the wider door, it doesn't interfere with the car going up at all.

If I put the lift on the 1 car side, then I would have had to get rid of the current door opener and use a wall mounted jack style door opener...but the tracks wouldn't have interfered at all.

[thedonva]

My ceiling is just over 11' tall. I have 2 doors, one large one (16') and one small one. I don't think I can put in the lift w/o modifying the door. I'll see if someone on CACC can give me an estimate.

[myjones]

Doors aside I have the same double, single door combo and an 11'4" ceiling and I put my lift in the single bay side. I used a tall 4 post commercial unit (Worth) and had it narrowed to 8'6" inside the posts. They narrowed it for free ;>) That is still wider than the 8' door but it left a lot of useable space in the garage. With the tall lift I also store a car up there often and can park under it with ease. The high lift doors allow the storage option to work, without that you could leave the lift up but not with a car on it and still open the door. The 2 post lifts really eat up garage space and make it hard to move around.

[Scud67]

myjones - not sure how you think that 2 post lifts take up space and make it hard to move around as compared to a 4 post with ramps and runways.... to me, a 4 post takes up a lot more space.

It is all in what the OP plans to use the lift for. If for mostly storage, then the 4 post might be ok. If for working on a vehicle, I prefer the 2 post. I was an auto tech for a long period of time and have worked on both types. My home shop has a 9K "short ceiling" 2 post and I wouldn't trade it for anything.

[myjones]

In a home garage the 2 post posts are in the way to open the door for the other bays
The 2 post is seldom offered in a narrow version so if it has the bottom or the overhead channel it has to stay that wide, again eating up space.
IMO alignments are easier on a 4 post.

As Scud said it depends on how you will use it, but it also is a HUGE impact on how you use the rest of the smaller garage space at home
YRMV
DB

[thedonva]

I'm going with the 4 post so I can also store my car over my primary driver. I'm going to see if I can find someone to modify the rails. I member on CACC gave me a suggestion, I'll have to see if they'll come down to Stafford, VA and help me out.

[Scud67]

thedonva - sounds like the 4 post will be a good fit for you. You could also check over at the garagejournal.com to see if anyone there has done or will do the modification for you.

myjones - I guess it depends on your home garage set up. In my home shop, I have 3 cars deep and the lift in it the farthest bay in the back, so no worries about door openings, but I get your point. :)