Who wants to be tonight's suspension guru?

[oldguy668]

I have a Moser rear end that I want to use in my next build. It has a single ear in the center of the housing instead of the usual 2 ears. I want to use a 4-link type setup, but I realize that the angularity between the upper and lower control arms is what provides lateral support for the whole package. If I use a single upper link with the usual 2 lower links, and I add a panhard (lateral) bar, will I get to the same point as far as handling and stability goes?

[Mike N]

Handling should be comparable to the FFR 3 link which is a definite upgrade from the factory 4 link. Might need a little fabrication to create the top link mount on the chassis but worth it.

[Jim Schenck]

Joe,
Its the height of the panhard bar that will be important. Knowing what the roll center of the front suspension is and then putting the rear bar a couple inches higher than that is a good starting point. Even better if you make a couple mounting points so you can try the bar at a couple different heights.

[oldguy668]

Jim, would I need multiple mounting points at both ends of the bar or just one end? Is the goal to adjust the height while keeping the bar parallel to the ground?

[skullandbones]

I have a Moser rear end that I want to use in my next build. It has a single ear in the center of the housing instead of the usual 2 ears. I want to use a 4-link type setup, but I realize that the angularity between the upper and lower control arms is what provides lateral support for the whole package. If I use a single upper link with the usual 2 lower links, and I add a panhard (lateral) bar, will I get to the same point as far as handling and stability goes?

Hey oldguy,

Do you have a pick of your diff? I was wondering where the single ULA attachment point is. I don't think I've seen that before. I like the center located third link myself. It just seems more symmetrical and therefore less likely to vary in geometry in left and right turn situations, JMO. WEK.

[oldguy668]

Mine looks like this unit from Moser, but without the 3-link arm.

33222

[CraigS]

I think I would look at pics of the FFR 3 link panhard mounts and duplicate that as far as height off the ground goes. I might even buy the FFR 3 link banana bracket from Moser to weld on. The advantage to it is getting a significantly longer 3rd link than w/ the mount you have.

[oldguy668]

I had a banana bracket on the rear, since it came from FFR anyway, but I cut it off (along with all the other mounts) because I planned on using it for my '56 Tbird. I just sold the 'bird so I now have this nifty rear end and I'm trying to find a way to use it without admitting to myself that I made a hasty decision when I removed all the bracketry. Funny how the mind works.

[Jim Schenck]

You want the bar as level as possible at ride height if you can, so I would do adjustment points on the chassis and the axle. A lot of circle track cars have a similiar set up so that is a good place to look for ideas, some of them have a real short panhard bar though and you don't want that.

[CHOTIS BILL]

Have you considered a Watts link like Levy sells? I don’t know if he makes one for the 33 or if one will fit but they are cool. http://levyracing.com/store/levy-racing-5-link-rear-suspension

Bill Lomenick

[oldguy668]

I have seen Gordon's prior posts about his 5-link, and there is no doubt that it is worth every penny. But this build is on a penny pinching budget so I have to invent and fab whatever I want to do. The watts link is very interesting as a replacement for the panhard rod, because it does not suffer from the lateral displacement with suspension travel. If I do one, it'll be the "hillbilly" version that suits my narrowly defined purpose.

[skullandbones]

That's pretty funny!! I am a real "hill billy" since I was born and raised in Chattanooga not far from those Smokey Mtns where hill billies reside. But I get your drift. You should check out my thread on "3 link, 4 link, what link" on this forum. I fabbed a custom watts link and third link to replace the 4 link I had from FFR. With some help from my friends, I now have a very nice 5 link. I didn't have to move my battery box or electrical as I fabbed the cross member around it. It's fashioned after the Fays2 that a lot of Mustang guys use instead of the pumpkin mounted version. The really cool thing is I found some PHB brackets that are perfect for the application. Together they give me 6 different locations to set the lateral links at and then I have six locations for the bell crank, too. The fabrication for the mounts for the third link were a little tricky but I have them in place and test driving it. No problems so far. That's been one of my more fun projects to date. The coolest thing about mine is it is completely bolt in. I have a 2 post lift and a very good machine shop that helped in the effort. Good luck, WEK.

[Norm B]

I'm no suspension expert but I do know something about geometry. If you put a short third link on that top mounting point and run it straight ahead to a frame mount your pinion angle is going to change substantially as the dif is moved up and down. The angles on the top control arms on a standard mustang setup don't only provide lateral stability to the dif, they also compensate for the difference in length between them and the lower arms. Unless I'm completely out to lunch, that would be the reason for the banana bracket arcing back on the FFR 3 link system. That makes the upper arm close to the length of the lowers maintaining the pinion angle as the dif is deflected.

Good Luck
Norm

[kkcalm5]

Sorry I'm no expert but thinking, ( man it hurts a lot on a Friday) but couldn't you fab 2 angled plates that attach to the center mount and angle towards the two mounting points on the frame and use the upper links so in a since you would have the 4 link set up?
just a thought
Kevin

[oldguy668]

Late model Mustangs use the single, centered, short upper link along with a panhard rod and the Mustang magazine guys rave about it being the best setup ever.

[oldguy668]

That's pretty funny!! I am a real "hill billy" since I was born and raised in Chattanooga not far from those Smokey Mtns where hill billies reside. But I get your drift. You should check out my thread on "3 link, 4 link, what link" on this forum. I fabbed a custom watts link and third link to replace the 4 link I had from FFR. With some help from my friends, I now have a very nice 5 link. I didn't have to move my battery box or electrical as I fabbed the cross member around it. It's fashioned after the Fays2 that a lot of Mustang guys use instead of the pumpkin mounted version. The really cool thing is I found some PHB brackets that are perfect for the application. Together they give me 6 different locations to set the lateral links at and then I have six locations for the bell crank, too. The fabrication for the mounts for the third link were a little tricky but I have them in place and test driving it. No problems so far. That's been one of my more fun projects to date. The coolest thing about mine is it is completely bolt in. I have a 2 post lift and a very good machine shop that helped in the effort. Good luck, WEK.

If you can share some pictures and links, I would be very grateful.

[skullandbones]

Here you go. Enjoy! Just a note about the geometry of the banana bracket. It has the advantage of using a longer arm. However, if you have an UCA that is about 70% the length of the LCA, it's supposed to be acceptable. My DIY third link is on top of the diff and I gave it some additional leverage by stacking the pickup points on top of a 2x2 box tube so I think the radius of my diff third member is longer than that of the banana bracket. That can't hurt the geometry as far as leverage on the axle housing.

3 Link, 4 Link, What Link??? (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14706-3-Link-4-Link-What-Link)