View Full Version : 1995 Ford Mustang 302 5.0 L engine pollution control
RJF9301
09-01-2014, 10:24 AM
How can the pollution control be disconnected?
edwardb
09-01-2014, 10:54 AM
How can the pollution control be disconnected?
Welcome to the forum. Interesting first question. I don't think the answer is as simple as "disconnect." Even 20 years ago, the emissions controls were an integrated system of controlling the mixture, timing, etc. based on EFI, multiple sensors, computer, etc. I'm not an expert, but I believe there are changes you can make to the program in the engine computer. But probably the single answer to your question is more along the lines of switching from EFI to carb. This is done frequently with these builds, and widely debated.
RJF9301
09-01-2014, 03:07 PM
Thanks! I was afraid the solution was not a simple one. Residing in a mountainous region of Virginia with significant elevation changes on many great country roads, fuel injection is quite an advantage over carbs.
skullandbones
09-01-2014, 03:27 PM
I'm not an EFI expert but I have done a lot of reading on the systems. I also have one running on my engine now. I think yours may be a slightly more flexible PCM than my 92 GT. You can't reflash mine. I can tell you that you don't need the air pump or any of the components associated with it. I just deleted the EGR system also. Although the EFI harness and sensors are a little more complicated than a carb setup, once you work through each subsystem and make sure the components are in good shape, it should work very well. I have had some performance issues that I'm working on but as far as starting every time and drivability, it's really hard to beat. I plan on using EFI even when I upgrade to a larger SBF engine (393). Just think of the EFI as a deconstructed carb: butterfly in one spot and injectors in another. The only real emissions device I have now is the PCV. If your area requires cats, that would not be a big deal to install if you use shorty headers. Good luck, WEK.
Jeff Kleiner
09-01-2014, 04:53 PM
The Thermactor (air pump) and EGR systems can be deleted however resistors need to be installed to spoof the ECU or it will trigger a MIL and error code. This is especially important in the case of the EGR because if the ECU does not see sensor values indicating expected ranges it pulls fuel a d timing which affects driveability and performance.
Jeff
skullandbones
09-01-2014, 10:30 PM
Here's what I have done so far to "fool" the computer into thinking the EGR is still operational. I plugged in the plunger that activates the EGR system and pushed the plunger in until the Check Engine Light went off. That's what happens when the EGR is disconnected (CEL). You also get a code 33 which is EGR not detected (open). By pushing the plunger in and finding the sweet spot for the position of the plunger (between 0.24 and 0.67 volts sensor signal), the CEL goes away and the ECU sees the EGR as running. You can also install a resistor to do the same thing. I have not found the resistors to clean up the job yet. So I have the plunger and harness connector taped and wired tied tight to the engine harness. I am not aware of any air pump resistors to use in this delete. In my case, I deleted the EGR block and the valve assembly. It cleaned up the area a little. Personally, I would like to have the EGR system in place but that is for a project down the priority list. I don't like it mounted on the throttle body the way it is now. BTW: the EGR system only works in 3 of the 8 driving strategies of the EEC-IV and that is only part of the time depending on 3 to five other sensors yes or no signal to the ECU depending on strategy. Here is a link that has a lot of info on the subject and codes that are possible. The mod I mentioned above, keeps you from throwing codes, 31, 32, 34, and 35 on the 87 to 93 version. The 94-95 codes are different but denote the same errors for the EGR.
http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7908F
"Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control" by Charles O. Probst is good for learning the ins and outs of the Ford system but not so much on how to make it high performance. I can't force myself to read straight through but it is a good reference book as well.
Thanks,
WEK.