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wallace18
08-02-2014, 02:39 PM
I am building an 818S Kit for a customer K. It is going to be fairly by the book, but open to changes along the way. The donor is a 2002 WRX just like I used in my build. The owner is going to vinyl wrap the car when completed. It is a #64 serial number so a fairly early kit. I brought the kit and donor stuff back from a trip to MA. Today I unloaded the trailer and started to take the front and rear suspension parts off of the cross members and such. Most likely a NE donor. Lots of rust everywhere. That is what sand blasters and blast cabs are for. Monday I hope to inventory the boxes and donor stuff and make sure I have all I need to get going. Here are some starter pics.

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Frank818
08-02-2014, 05:40 PM
Vinyl wrap, excellent I am doing that. Will probably wrap it around spring 2015, so if you get there first (and you will), I will follow very very closely what you did to the body (sand, buff, fill voids, etc.) and how easy/hard it is to wrap this car.

Kalstar
08-02-2014, 06:02 PM
New England cars suck!

wallace18
08-02-2014, 07:39 PM
Vinyl wrap, excellent I am doing that. Will probably wrap it around spring 2015, so if you get there first (and you will), I will follow very very closely what you did to the body (sand, buff, fill voids, etc.) and how easy/hard it is to wrap this car.

There are 2 things Wayne and I do not do. That is sand and paint. The owner will have that taken care of. He is aware that I do not sand and fill. I do gap the car but that is it. God did not gift me as far as body work painting skills. I know my limitations. LOL.

Boog
08-03-2014, 12:36 AM
Was the kit sitting around for a while? I'm just curious about it being #64. The last time I saw one posted on the forum I think they were above #200.

wallace18
08-03-2014, 05:52 AM
Was the kit sitting around for a while? I'm just curious about it being #64. The last time I saw one posted on the forum I think they were above #200.

About a year or so.

Kalstar
08-03-2014, 07:27 AM
I think they are around kit # 270 shipped.

RM1SepEx
08-03-2014, 08:02 AM
They were just starting 3 a week when I got mine # 17 on August 1 last year, so # 60 would have been perhaps late Fall?

Tom, be prepared to have to use gravity to get the panels to sit correctly

sponaugle
08-03-2014, 09:16 AM
Vinyl wrap, excellent I am doing that. Will probably wrap it around spring 2015, so if you get there first (and you will), I will follow very very closely what you did to the body (sand, buff, fill voids, etc.) and how easy/hard it is to wrap this car.

I'm also planning on doing a wrap, so I'm looking forward to seeing what you guys come up with!


New England cars suck!

Every time I see or hear about an east coast car it makes me appreciate more how lucky I was to have a west coast (Oregon) donor. 8 years old and not a spot of rust anywhere!


There are 2 things Wayne and I do not do. That is sand and paint. The owner will have that taken care of. He is aware that I do not sand and fill. I do gap the car but that is it. God did not gift me as far as body work painting skills. I know my limitations. LOL.

I feel the same way! Everything about building this car seems straightforward to me except the body work.

Cool that you have an early chassis # for this build.

Jeff

wallace18
08-04-2014, 04:45 PM
Did inventory of all the FFR boxes and stuff today. Not too bad. About 8-12 items missing. Hopefully the owner can work something out with FFR since it is long past 45 days. Some stuff is going to hold me up but I'll keep at it as much as I can. There is always a coupe lurking near by. LOL. Here is pics of the frame before and after. The owner wanted Gloss black Rust-Oleum so that is what he got. After degreasing the frame, scuffing, wipe with acetone I painted it best I could. It is a Go-Daddy Driver paint job. (inside joke) This is the last frame I will paint. You can quote me on that. LOL. I miss the black powder coat. LOL.

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GUNS
08-04-2014, 06:03 PM
I've been able to get missing parts a year into my build, so I'm sure he'll be fine.

Kalstar
08-04-2014, 07:30 PM
Black gold! Looks awesome!

October 15th was the pick up date. I thought it was earlier but that is what the paperwork had said when I looked last night.

Frank818
08-04-2014, 08:23 PM
Well, it's not like you are missing space in your yard, hey. :) That's great, cuz those parts take a lot of space. :)

wallace18
08-05-2014, 03:27 PM
Today I finished painting the bottom of the frame and small touch up work. I also painted 90% of the bare metal stuff from the kit with Gloss black today. I then took apart the front and rear donor suspension parts and welded the front lower shock mounts to the LCA. I started to descale the donor stuff as well. To say this car had rust would be like saying New Zealand has sheep. Bad Joke I know. LOL. I still have to sand blast it in the AM. It hit 93 here and I do not like being in a enclosed suit in that kind of heat. I was surprised the bolts all came loose so easy though. Here is a few before pics. Also here is the 20 buck descaler I got from HF. Best money I ever spent today. LOL.

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RM1SepEx
08-05-2014, 03:55 PM
Bucket of Doom time? Those are some nasty, my Michigan car was much better than that!

mikeb75
08-05-2014, 04:00 PM
Wow! I think that beats my donor for ugly.

Frank818
08-05-2014, 06:03 PM
Usually bolts on a jap car are easy to remove, as they are zinc plated. Same happened on my off the chart rusted donor, I thought all bolts would strip or crack but only one did, for the entire car. All the other ones were easy to remove.

Are you going to re-use the OEM bolts FFR recommends to use or will you change them all for new ones?

wallace18
08-05-2014, 06:11 PM
Usually bolts on a jap car are easy to remove, as they are zinc plated. Same happened on my off the chart rusted donor, I thought all bolts would strip or crack but only one did, for the entire car. All the other ones were easy to remove.

Are you going to re-use the OEM bolts FFR recommends to use or will you change them all for new ones?
After I clean them up if they look Ok I'll reuse. If not replace.

metalmaker12
08-05-2014, 06:37 PM
Looks familiar, I stripped that junk ,,,j/k actually a decent car.

Kalstar
08-05-2014, 06:58 PM
I have seen worse. Ask Everson or Mush. New England area should be avoided.

metalmaker12
08-05-2014, 07:40 PM
My donor was pretty bad also, yours is much better.

wallace18
08-06-2014, 03:27 PM
Got a fair amount of stuff done today. After descaling , sand blasting and cleaning up with Brake Clean I was able to coat the front and rear donor suspension with rust inhibitor.
Then I spray bombed with Rust-Oleum Gloss black. Looks a lot better than when I started.
I then located and drilled the front and interior alum. Waiting on some special stuff to coat the inside interior stuff before I rivet it all in place. I will mount the rear firewall with S/S button head screws so it can be taken out in the event it needs to be. Tomorrow maybe mount some suspension stuff. It was hot today but I got all the hard stuff done in the AM.

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Frank818
08-06-2014, 08:18 PM
Interesting, you still need the manual for your 2nd build. :)

Kalstar
08-06-2014, 09:10 PM
Someone has been busy.

wallace18
08-07-2014, 03:26 PM
Had to mow 8 acres of grass today. Only got to work on the 818S about 3 hours. It is serious hot down here today. I got the rear donor suspension bolted in and most of the front suspension. I mounted the gas tank and bolted down the lower firewall. I used S/S button heads from below for the tank area.

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tango68ss
08-07-2014, 03:33 PM
Oh quit your whining about heat ;) It was 107 with a heat index of 122 here today!!! And windy (blowing sand...) :)

Kalstar
08-07-2014, 03:50 PM
Trade ya. This nastiness was over my house today. Really pouring now, lots of flashes and booms.

wallace18
08-07-2014, 04:07 PM
Trade ya. This nastiness was over my house today. Really pouring now, lots of flashes and booms.

That is a mean looking cloud. But I would trade you. We have not had rain at my home in 3 weeks.

wallace18
08-08-2014, 04:13 PM
Well Kalstar, I got your rain today along with the lightning . Lost power for a few hours. I guess I should be careful what I ask for. LOL> I did get the dirty greasy stuff done today. I swapped out the CV's to the FFR axle and mounted the rear suspension brackets to the hub. The CV's were in good shape. I promised the wife to work on her hunting trailer and get her car ready for the Sat. night cruise in. Here is some pics.
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wallace18
08-09-2014, 03:15 PM
I surprised myself today. I got a lot done in 5 hours. I stripped the engine of unneeded stuff. I fixed the coolant inlet to allow better air bleeding as per Wayne. I converted it to 2WD. I power washed it and installed in chassis. It is so much easier the second time. Also there is many updates to this #64 chassis vs. my #27. Thanks to Wayne, Eric and others to help FFR with mods that benefited everyone down the road. The trans and engine were very clean inside. I had to get rid of a mouse nest under the turbo. LOL. Here are some before and after photos. I also painted the door frames S/S silver.

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Kalstar
08-09-2014, 05:23 PM
Damn, that is a lot for 5 hrs. Good to hear everything was clean inside......hopefully that means it was a well taken care of donor. what's next steering column and rack?

Frank818
08-09-2014, 08:50 PM
You build fast. How many hours a day are you spending on average?

wallace18
08-10-2014, 06:00 AM
You build fast. How many hours a day are you spending on average?

It varies from 3 - 6. Having air tools and 40 years of automotive experience does not hurt either. LOL.

wallace18
08-10-2014, 06:03 AM
Damn, that is a lot for 5 hrs. Good to hear everything was clean inside......hopefully that means it was a well taken care of donor. what's next steering column and rack?

Steering rack is next for sure. Column will have to wait till alum is riveted in and I have pedals. Still plenty to stay busy with.

wallace18
08-11-2014, 03:59 PM
I had some prior commitments at church the last 2 days. Did not get much done. Had to buy new nuts for trans and Eng. mounts. Located and drilled floor. Hope to mount steering tomorrow.

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wallace18
08-12-2014, 03:51 PM
Got a box in the mail today. Intercooler, hood hinges, 4-way sw. and brk cable brkts showed up. I installed the intercooler and replaced some bad vacuum hoses. I mounted shift brackets to trans and steering stuff after clean up and painting. . Also front radiator frame and rear shock tower brace. Also made bracket for coolant tank so it clears frame. Trying to stay at it as much as I can till other parts come in.

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Harley818
08-13-2014, 01:18 AM
Hey Wallace, nice build so far.
I followed your first build. Love the colour. Nice to see you going for the "dream".
Good luck with no. 2. I'm sure the owner is following closely.......KKKKhaha.
I'm from the NW and had alot of rust on my donor parts... I guess we use more salt up here compared to Sponaugle's Oregon.
Nothing a little sand blasting didn't take care of. They all look like new now.
I did the same thing with power washing the engine and trans, but I painted the block and trans.... looks like new now.
I'm sure I'll learn some more on your second build.... thanks for posting.

Harley

wallace18
08-13-2014, 03:31 PM
Only had a few hours to work on the 818S today. I located and drilled the lower frt alum under the batt. I mounted the side cooling tubes. I also hooked up the shift cables in the back. I still have to massage the rear shifter cable bracket so it works well. I also installed the loop for the heater pipes from the engine. According to tracking #'s I should have most of my missing stuff sometime Friday. Next week I will be able to get back on track with most stuff.

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wleehendrick
08-13-2014, 04:44 PM
Wow, that's fast progress. Tom, want a 'working vacation' in SoCal? ;)

wallace18
08-14-2014, 03:01 PM
Today I mocked up the center console and shifter. Also started on the Medusa wiring harness. Nothing like getting rid of useless wires to make the day go by. VCP wiring harness is worth its weight in gold IMO compared to the stock one. But I am glad I am doing one this way. This allows me to compare the 2.

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RM1SepEx
08-14-2014, 04:27 PM
That console goes together so much better than the fiberglass **** that early builders received!

Kalstar
08-14-2014, 05:30 PM
For those in OBD states the OEM harness is the only option (to the best of my knowledge).

metalmaker12
08-14-2014, 06:46 PM
That console goes together so much better than the fiberglass **** that early builders received!

Yeah we should all get those pieces in the mail !!

RM1SepEx
08-14-2014, 07:06 PM
I asked... to no avail... :mad:

Frank818
08-14-2014, 07:40 PM
Hum, about that console, which I have, I wonder how the K-Tuned shifter would fit. The console covers it too much. I'll find something.

GUNS
08-14-2014, 07:41 PM
Hum, about that console, which I have, I wonder how the K-Tuned shifter would fit. The console covers it too much. I'll find something.

That and I don't think it would work to well for those of us that mounted the shifter inside the tunnel.

STiPWRD
08-15-2014, 08:34 AM
That and I don't think it would work to well for those of us that mounted the shifter inside the tunnel.

That's what I was planning on doing. But I feel like this new tunnel setup could still work though - first time I've seen it.

GUNS
08-15-2014, 08:43 AM
That's what I was planning on doing. But I feel like this new tunnel setup could still work though - first time I've seen it.

I think it will still work, the shifter will you be very recessed. Although, the shifter is soooo tall it may still look fine.

Frank818
08-15-2014, 09:06 AM
Wallace, your shifter, is it bolted right on the tunnel frame or a couple of inches over the tunnel frame?

wallace18
08-15-2014, 04:06 PM
Wallace, your shifter, is it bolted right on the tunnel frame or a couple of inches over the tunnel frame?
It is done just as it shows in the manual.

wallace18
08-15-2014, 04:15 PM
Today I mostly worked on giving the wire harness a diet. 3 boxes of stuff came in this afternoon. Still missing some key stuff, but Mr. K is on the job! Here is some photos.
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wallace18
08-16-2014, 04:19 PM
With the missing FFR stuff here I was able to finish the front and rear suspension. I also coated the aluminum with my customers coating and installed the front and interior alum. I coated the front side near the battery with a light coat of truck liner. The rest will get covered with carpet down the road. Once I get a few more missing donor parts I can take it up a notch. LOL. (Seinfeld ref.)

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tango68ss
08-17-2014, 09:54 AM
Tom,

Kicking butt! (again)... I know you can appreciate this (sorry 'bout the thread hijack)... I really need to get home, order my kit, and start building!! Zach has "designs" on my Camaro!!

See you in the fall.

TC
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wallace18
08-17-2014, 11:12 AM
Tom,

Kicking butt! (again)... I know you can appreciate this (sorry 'bout the thread hijack)... I really need to get home, order my kit, and start building!! Zach has "designs" on my Camaro!!

See you in the fall.

TC
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Ah! the license! Look out TC your past may come to haunt you. LOL.

wallace18
08-18-2014, 03:46 PM
Had a good work day today. I installed the Fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, pedals, steering column, gas pedal, brake master cylinder, seat belts and started on the brake lines. Hope to work on brake lines on Tuesday and send out windshield frame for paint.

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wallace18
08-19-2014, 09:31 AM
This morning I ran all the brake lines. Just have to wait on some boxes to come to keep going. I won't post till Friday. Personal stuff to take care of next few days.

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wallace18
08-22-2014, 03:33 PM
Worked 4 hours on the wiring harness today. The OEM harness is a challenge for sure. I got all the engine and trans hooked up. The cluster and brake and clutch switches. Still a lot to get tidied up. Temp in my shop got to 98 degrees with my fan running. I am taking the weekend off for the most part. Too hot for me to think straight. Still waiting on donor stuff. Hopefully here soon.

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wallace18
08-24-2014, 03:02 PM
I had a few hours to kill today. I was able to extend all the wires I needed to the Headlights, tail lights, horn, rad fans, wipers. and trans switches. I also mounted the rear fuse box, ECU and FI relays. Started to neat up the wires some. I will cover everything once I get everything running and working. I found a new turbo Blanket that would not work on my orange 818S. It fits the stock turbo perfect. ( That one is on the house MR. K.) LOL.

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Kalstar
08-25-2014, 07:20 AM
Looking awesome. How does the two builds compare time wise? What improvements have been made that you mentioned in your earlier post?

wallace18
08-25-2014, 03:25 PM
Looking awesome. How does the two builds compare time wise? What improvements have been made that you mentioned in your earlier post?

The wiring on this one is way more difficult. Everything else is easier to some extent. I know where everything goes so it is easier. Some of the brackets on the frame are in much better places and the various bushings are sized correctly VS the earlier chassis#. The center console is much better as well as the 50 some aluminum parts are better shaped as well so far. The front upper control arms are much better as well. Also the manual has been updated.

Today I put in the battery and hooked up a 4 amp fuse inline on the positive cable. I put the key to the on position and no blown fuse or smoke. LOL. In fact all the turn signals, stop lights and parking lights all work perfect. I just checked them with a test light so far. Also the fuel level gauge works perfect. The headlights are weird in that they seem to control the ground for Hi and Lo beams. I need to do some further book work to get them working proper. . But is was nice to see some of the stuff work the first time as well as no shorts. When I get the air flow meter and radiator I can try to start the engine. I filled the engine with fresh 5W-30 Castrol and put on a new O/F as well. Also filled the trans with fresh 75W-90 gear lube. The build is coming along nice. Maybe do a go-cart run in 7 -10 days or so. I'll do a you tube on that for sure.

wallace18
08-25-2014, 03:44 PM
I forgot to mention in an earlier post that I shortened the shift post coming out of the back of the trans. I cut it right behind the original hole. This will allow for no interference with the body on shifting and such. Very easy to do and took only about 15 minutes with a cutoff wheel and drill.

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Quiny
08-25-2014, 06:41 PM
I did the same thing seemed like a no-brainer

RM1SepEx
08-25-2014, 07:19 PM
I flipped shift arm around and moved it 1 1/4 forward, I did have to redrill the bracket and bend the bracket too for smooth operation.

I was just at FFR and their red car rubs the mesh enough that it has smeared the aluminum from the inside. I think there would be enough clearance if you just cut 1/4 off the bracket

Jaime
08-25-2014, 08:15 PM
The headlights are weird in that they seem to control the ground for Hi and Lo beams. I need to do some further book work to get them working proper.
The headlight switches run the ground side via relays (one circuit for hi and one for low), but the power is one relay/fuse for left (hi and low) and one for right(hi and low).

wallace18
08-27-2014, 01:32 PM
After several hours of wire diagrams and hair pulling I had success today with getting all the lights to work properly, the wiper motor, B/U lights, horn and most every thing else. Waiting for donor stuff to show up then I will try to start engine. The windshield frame came back from painter today. Nice work! I do not recommend to install the windshield before you mount the frame. Sometimes you have to do some heavy duty pulling and pushing to get frame right for hood and doors IMO. I leave that till you are almost done. Here is some photos of harness so far. It is almost manageable now. LOL.

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Kalstar
08-27-2014, 03:15 PM
Which is heavier, the aftermarket harness or the OEM dieted harness? Looks like sooooo much less wires then the stock harness. What do you guess you removed weight wise from the OEM harness?

wallace18
08-27-2014, 03:46 PM
Which is heavier, the aftermarket harness or the OEM dieted harness? Looks like sooooo much less wires then the stock harness. What do you guess you removed weight wise from the OEM harness?
The VCP harness is a fraction of the OEM harness in weight even after the diet. I have taken out 8lbs of wire and useless relays. I still have to cover the harness better for protection. I am waiting till every thing works correct to tidy up stuff. It does look a lot better now though IMO. Had to buy a pack of large wire ties to corral the anaconda OEM harness. LOL.

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wleehendrick
08-27-2014, 03:55 PM
Had to buy a pack of large wire ties to corral the anaconda OEM harness. LOL.

But you tamed that snake!

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wallace18
08-28-2014, 03:40 PM
Got a box of stuff late yesterday. I was able to mount the radiator. I had to make custom mounts since no donor ones were saved. I also put on all 4 rotors but only had the LF caliper to install. I also mounted the taillights in the rear bumper.

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wallace18
08-30-2014, 05:32 PM
Last 2 days got some stuff done. I mounted the headlights and buckets in the front bumper. Also finished up all coolant lines and filled with coolant. I installed the clutch master and hard lines and bled system. Unfortunately it looks like clutch is bad. The arm to the P/P went in when clutch was depressed but never came back. Our local U- pull it junk yard had a 50% off sale all this weekend. I got these high tech wheels and tires to roll the chassis off my lift while I wait on parts. LOL.

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metalmaker12
08-30-2014, 10:22 PM
Last 2 days got some stuff done. I mounted the headlights and buckets in the front bumper. Also finished up all coolant lines and filled with coolant. I installed the clutch master and hard lines and bled system. Unfortunately it looks like clutch is bad. The arm to the P/P went in when clutch was depressed but never came back. Our local U- pull it junk yard had a 50% off sale all this weekend. I got these high tech wheels and tires to roll the chassis off my lift while I wait on parts. LOL.
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Clutch seemed to be working on donor, I drove it for a short run and so did customer K

wallace18
09-01-2014, 11:39 AM
Well it may have drove fine then but, the T/O bearing pulled through the P/P just bleeding the line. It was good to happen now the disc was worn down to the rivets. Lucky the flywheel is good. It took 45 minutes to pull the trans. Just unhook the shocks, 2 arms and drive shafts. It comes right out the back easy. Hopefully I'll get a good clutch setup to install soon.

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wallace18
09-02-2014, 12:23 PM
While I wait for parts I worked on the fiberglass stuff today. I did cutouts and installed mesh.

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ehansen007
09-02-2014, 12:51 PM
Sorry if I missed this Tom but how is the quality of the body now that we're in the 100s-200s in production numbers being built?

RM1SepEx
09-02-2014, 01:03 PM
this is an earlier body from last Fall...

wallace18
09-02-2014, 01:22 PM
Sorry if I missed this Tom but how is the quality of the body now that we're in the 100s-200s in production numbers being built?

It is an early one Chassis #64. Body is same as mine. I do not have the same feelings as some about the body. For a 10K kit I think it is fine. Is it a no paint? No not even close. But compared to the 33 and coupe the panels are by far better IMO.

wallace18
09-05-2014, 02:15 PM
Well I guess I am like some of you who got the latest manual update PDF. It seems the shifter has moved forward from what the manual says. I had already mounted this one and fuse panel so I was going to ignore the update. God whispered to me to check it out so I did. I laid a moving blanket down and sat in the chassis. Sure enough the shifter was too far back. On my car I first installed the seat then adjusted the wheel, pedals and shifter to the seat. Since mine was a custom K-tuned shifter from VCP I could mount it anywhere I wanted also my wiring harness did not run through the tunnel. Well now I had to move everything and it seems better now. I am not happy with how high the steering wheel is but I can adjust that later when the seats come in. All that being said here is how it ended up. The fuse panel is now sideways and I will make a access door for it.

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metalmaker12
09-05-2014, 06:35 PM
Well it may have drove fine then but, the T/O bearing pulled through the P/P just bleeding the line. It was good to happen now the disc was worn down to the rivets. Lucky the flywheel is good. It took 45 minutes to pull the trans. Just unhook the shocks, 2 arms and drive shafts. It comes right out the back easy. Hopefully I'll get a good clutch setup to install soon.

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Wow that's shot, well it's always good to visually check
I personal love ACT clutches and think it is all a Subaru should use

RM1SepEx
09-05-2014, 07:29 PM
I already moved the stock shifter forward, I wonder how it will line up with the aluminum console I just picked up. My fuse panel will have an access panel as well.

Have you considered how high the shifter is vs the steering wheel?

wallace18
09-06-2014, 05:23 AM
I already moved the stock shifter forward, I wonder how it will line up with the aluminum console I just picked up. My fuse panel will have an access panel as well.

Have you considered how high the shifter is vs the steering wheel?
It is a little close on the 1-2 shift but seems Ok every where else. The alum console can always be modified to fit.

wallace18
09-10-2014, 11:41 AM
Worked on the kit some this morning. I was able to cut out side openings in the sides as well as the gas cap. Also did the hood openings for the intercooler. No mesh here to maximize the air to the unit. I will make sure the duct work is best as it can be to the stock intercooler.

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RM1SepEx
09-10-2014, 12:43 PM
Tom, How far have you gone with the new aluminum console when using the OEM harness? I'm having problems getting mine far enough forward... The FFR directions have the top tab connected to the dash, Joe tells me that they have connected it to the dash and the frame tubing... I need to work on my harness to get there. I'm also looking at putting in an access panel for the fuses and relays, your thoughts?

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It looks like the right side has to go beyond the tunnel aluminum all the way to the firewall and that angled portion really cuts into the foot well

wallace18
09-10-2014, 01:55 PM
Tom, How far have you gone with the new aluminum console when using the OEM harness? I'm having problems getting mine far enough forward... The FFR directions have the top tab connected to the dash, Joe tells me that they have connected it to the dash and the frame tubing... I need to work on my harness to get there. I'm also looking at putting in an access panel for the fuses and relays, your thoughts?

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It looks like the right side has to go beyond the tunnel aluminum all the way to the firewall and that angled portion really cuts into the foot well

Dan I am waiting on a bunch of parts and most likely 2-3 weeks from giving you an answer. Sorry. When I get there I'll post.

GUNS
09-10-2014, 03:39 PM
Is there a reason FFR doesn't want the passengers to have any foot room? Bothe designs have a significant angle into the passenger footwell area. Am I missing something?

wallace18
09-10-2014, 05:34 PM
Is there a reason FFR doesn't want the passengers to have any foot room? Bothe designs have a significant angle into the passenger footwell area. Am I missing something?

I do know that the MK4 and Coupe also have reduced size passenger foot boxes. Not sure why but in the original Cobra it was not something they were concerned with. It was a race car first and foremost. It really does not take that much away IMO.

RM1SepEx
09-10-2014, 07:54 PM
It's still wide enough for two big feet... It's room for the relays and fuse panel... I'm working on getting them mounted with easy access

wallace18
09-12-2014, 09:53 AM
Due to unforeseen donor parts delays Mr. K. and myself have agreed to put the K818S build on hold, till I have all the needed parts in my possession. I am putting all of the 818 kit in storage on my 4 post lift till that time. I now have every thing to finish my Coupe build to get it to paint. So I am swapping out kits in my shop today. This will work to both our advantage since Mr. K. does not need the car in the winter up in the NE, and that is when all the big shows are here in the south. I hope to get back at the 818 in October or November. So most likely no posts from me here for a time. Look for posts in my coupe build though.

33467

wallace18
12-05-2014, 01:39 PM
Well I sent my Type 65 Coupe out for paint last Wednesday. So I have some time on my hands till Feb. My hope is that I will get my needed donor parts soon for this build. hint,hint. Some stuff did come in so I descaled, blast cabbed and painted 2 used rear calipers and a rebuilt front one. Here are some before and after pics. I hope to move the 818 to my working lift this week and start back on it till my Coupe is done from paint. Hard to believe it has been 3 months since I worked on it. I also have some build threads to go through for ideas. Thanks to all that post. It helps so many others out.

3623636237362383623936240

Hindsight
12-05-2014, 02:01 PM
Looks nice! I am painting my four pots as well and sure wish i had a blast cab. I just dont have the space for one. What paint are you using? I really like the vht caliper paint after the baking cure process. Its like glass.

wallace18
12-05-2014, 02:29 PM
Looks nice! I am painting my four pots as well and sure wish i had a blast cab. I just dont have the space for one. What paint are you using? I really like the vht caliper paint after the baking cure process. Its like glass.

duplicolor caliper paint.

Kalstar
12-05-2014, 05:53 PM
And its back on!

wallace18
12-06-2014, 05:03 PM
I had a little time to work on the 818 today. I mounted the rear calipers and pads and the RF unit as well. I will bleed the system next week while I wait on parts.

362863628736288

Frank818
12-06-2014, 06:46 PM
That's a twisty rear braided line you got there. I guess it helps support the line as it sort of supports by itself cuz it's twisted?

wallace18
12-07-2014, 09:43 AM
That's a twisty rear braided line you got there. I guess it helps support the line as it sort of supports by itself cuz it's twisted?

IMO it keeps it from hitting the inside of the wheel.

RM1SepEx
12-07-2014, 10:19 AM
Tom, How early is that kit? remember we got adj rear transverse links

wallace18
12-07-2014, 01:36 PM
Tom, How early is that kit? remember we got adj rear transverse links

It is chassis #64. I am pretty sure I will have to get adjustable links to get the rear alignment right. The donor ones are bent. Owner wants to keep costs as low as possible so I will at least try to align it first.

RM1SepEx
12-07-2014, 01:51 PM
A ton of our wrecked donors were manhandled with a forklift after crashes... I just went the ebay route, already sold my FFR provided links

I wish that I had your weather!

wallace18
12-12-2014, 10:50 AM
Well I finally got the clutch stuff I needed as well as the missing intake parts. I hope to have it running and go cart it in 2-3 weeks. Here is the intake stuff I scored on eBay for $160. I also bought new Lower Lateral links. The donor ones are bent too much to align.

36471364743647536476

wallace18
12-16-2014, 02:22 PM
Well after getting the trans back in I installed the missing A/F meter and such. I added 5 gallons of gas and after sitting for about a year it runs. Still have several wiring issues though. I plan on spending most of my time on these as well as make up some sort of exhaust for the secondary O2 sensor. It was nice to hear it run. seems to miss a little, but hopefully after getting everything hooked up and get rid of engine codes all will be better. Still a ton of work to do. Still waiting on a few parts as well. Hint Hint!!!! Here is a short video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bO3rZpXxTBQ&feature=youtu.be

Boog
12-16-2014, 03:04 PM
OEM engine/trans mounts?

wallace18
12-16-2014, 04:48 PM
OEM engine/trans mounts?

Yes all stock 2002 WRX donor. 80K miles. Intake and exhaust will be only stuff not stock or from the kit as far as the drive train.

Boog
12-17-2014, 12:36 AM
Looks good. Any concerns about turbo to cross member interference?

wallace18
12-17-2014, 09:00 AM
Looks good. Any concerns about turbo to cross member interference?

I do not think there will be a problem IMO.

wallace18
12-17-2014, 04:00 PM
Today I made a bracket for the air cleaner and mounted the rear over flow tank. I also wired and tested the front headlights, parking lights and turn signals. Mr. K. says parts are on the way so I can take it up a notch soon. LOL.

3657336574

Kalstar
12-17-2014, 06:04 PM
That Rustolum frame looks great!

Mr. K is such a slacker, he can not even get his own parts shipped to you in a timely fashion. I think you should forget to put the headlight fluid in or muffler bearing on. That will teach him.

Frank818
12-17-2014, 06:52 PM
Hey Wallace, off topic, are you satisfied of your QuickSystem PRO?

wallace18
12-18-2014, 08:07 AM
Hey Wallace, off topic, are you satisfied of your QuickSystem PRO?


It does work Ok but is a little bit on the fragile side. For someone like myself that does about 2 alignments a year it is fine. I like that it fits any style wheel as opposed to my Longacre one that only fits wheels with a lip. It paid for itself after 2 alignments. It did come with a nice bag to keep it in. Directions and videos for its use are poor IMO. I would rate it a 6 out of 10. I hope that helps.

Frank818
12-18-2014, 08:14 AM
Tnx a lot Wallace, it does help. I know I will need a few alignments at first during the build to test fit things, align things while "things" are not fully in place permanently. I can't bring the car anywhere for alignment cuz it won't be registered yet and cannot without an alignment. Goes in circle.

If you were to do it again, would you still buy it considering value/price ratio? Or would you seriously check on something else?

wallace18
12-18-2014, 08:15 AM
That Rustolum frame looks great!

Mr. K is such a slacker, he can not even get his own parts shipped to you in a timely fashion. I think you should forget to put the headlight fluid in or muffler bearing on. That will teach him.

Mr. K. is not so bad. He just needs to be poked every now and then. LOL. Best wishes for a quick recovery.

wallace18
12-18-2014, 04:55 PM
Today I mounted the front overflow tank. I then mocked up my windshield, dash and center console. I needed to figure out where to put some of the electrical add-ons for this build. The center console will have to be modified some what. I remounted the shifter as the new manual update had in it. Now it hits the hole in the console. I also had to trim the top tab off for proper fit. I think I am going to shorten the shift handle some. Too high IMO. Also I am making a access plate for the front fuse panel. I will make the center part of the console removable for ease of repair or modifications down the road. I also used 10/24 rivnuts to hold in the instrument cluster for ease of removal as well. Still lots of wiring issues to sort out and where to put things. But that is half the fun. So far so good.

365973659836599366003660136602

wallace18
12-23-2014, 04:10 PM
With the holidays it has been hard to get time to work on the K818S. Today I did wire up the main disconnect, seat heater circuits, cell phone charging outlet and extended the connectors to reflash the ECU to where I have an access port to the front fuse box. I also shorten the shifter 3". It was way too tall and got in the way of the steering wheel. This will look and work better IMO. The FFR wheel and adapter look and work great. The adapter Mr. K. got unfortunately would not work. I had to get the FFR one. I am still modifying console for a better fit. I had to mount the WRX e-Brake handle. I could not use the Lokar unit because of the anaconda wire harness takes up too much room in the center tunnel. Refund for that Mr. K.. I will make note of it. Mocking everything up so I can finalized how everything will fit before carpet and covers, etc.

3676036761

wallace18
12-23-2014, 04:14 PM
Tnx a lot Wallace, it does help. I know I will need a few alignments at first during the build to test fit things, align things while "things" are not fully in place permanently. I can't bring the car anywhere for alignment cuz it won't be registered yet and cannot without an alignment. Goes in circle.

If you were to do it again, would you still buy it considering value/price ratio? Or would you seriously check on something else?

Yes I would buy it.

07FIREBLADE
12-23-2014, 04:29 PM
Did you make or modify that center console on this car? The area that goes up to the dash looks different. I haven't seen the new aluminum center only the old ugly fiberglass.

Frank818
12-23-2014, 07:58 PM
Yes I would buy it.

I hope so, cuz I just ordered one with partly free shipping early this morning! :)

wallace18
12-24-2014, 08:06 AM
Did you make or modify that center console on this car? The area that goes up to the dash looks different. I haven't seen the new aluminum center only the old ugly fiberglass.
The kits now come with a aluminum center console. Looks a lot like the custom one I built in the orange 818 I built. I had to mod it to fit the shifter and dash to match my needs. Much better than the fiberglass one IMO.

late apex
12-28-2014, 04:54 PM
Hi Wallace, how did you go about shortening the shifter. We started by trying to take apart the shifter but it seems like that might be a bad idea.
Thanks
Jim

wallace18
12-29-2014, 07:34 AM
Hi Wallace, how did you go about shortening the shifter. We started by trying to take apart the shifter but it seems like that might be a bad idea.
Thanks
Jim

I just cut it off and rethreaded it with a metric die. I had to shape it a little with a grinder first but it came out nice IMO.

late apex
12-29-2014, 10:50 AM
Thanks!

wallace18
12-30-2014, 07:04 AM
well some bad news. The parts that were supposed to be on the way never got shipped. Hopefully on the way soon. The steel wheels and tires I scored on Craigslist did not fit over the front brake calipers. I had to remove the calipers to be able to align the car. Wheels and tires are supposed to be on the way as well from Mr. K. I noticed some scratches in the dash. I thought they were leftover glue from the duct tape from FFR. I ended up painting the dash with Eastwood wrinkle paint. I really like how it came out. I am having difficulties getting a eprom read from the ECU. Tactrix is trying to help me. ECU is going into test mode fine and my OBD2 scanner reads codes and engine data fine. Engine runs good on lift. I just want to get rid of EVAP codes. While parts delays are very frustrating, I will start mounting the body and work on exhaust this week to stay busy.

37002

metalmaker12
12-30-2014, 09:36 AM
Your using romraider correct ( the download off the tantrix site ) so the cable powers up and you can scan codes etc. you did jump the white connector with your jumper and your software is all downloaded completely, so it should work in theory. Does the log screen come up and it just doesn't read the cars vitals.

wallace18
12-30-2014, 10:25 AM
Your using romraider correct ( the download off the tantrix site ) so the cable powers up and you can scan codes etc. you did jump the white connector with your jumper and your software is all downloaded completely, so it should work in theory. Does the log screen come up and it just doesn't read the cars vitals.

As far as I can tell everything is working as it should. Tactrix ecu flash will not read my ECU for some reason an error code comes up every time. I have sent log files to them and they are having problems figuring it out as well. I have some new debugging software to try today. wish me luck.

Kalstar
01-06-2015, 10:26 PM
I hear some matte gray wheels have arrived.

http://www.statuswheels.com/wheel.cfm?id=2156

Not bad for $82.00 each though shipping was not cheap. Ended up about $400.00 with shipping included for all 4.

wallace18
01-07-2015, 08:07 AM
I hear some matte gray wheels have arrived.

http://www.statuswheels.com/wheel.cfm?id=2156

Not bad for $82.00 each.

Link does not work for some reason. I'll post pics later today.

RM1SepEx
01-07-2015, 10:40 AM
Link works fine for me...

Frank818
01-07-2015, 10:49 AM
It now works. Wasn't earlier this morning.

wallace18
01-07-2015, 11:55 AM
Here is the actual wheel. I am still waiting on tires, lugs and locks. Hope to have some fed ex stuff show up today so I can get going again. Supposed to be 25 here in the morning tomorrow. You won't see me working in that cold. LOL.

37376

FFRSpec72
01-07-2015, 12:05 PM
Here is the actual wheel. I am still waiting on tires, lugs and locks. Hope to have some fed ex stuff show up today so I can get going again. Supposed to be 25 here in the morning tomorrow. You won't see me working in that cold. LOL.


Suck it up and get out there and get er done

Hindsight
01-07-2015, 12:22 PM
I have an electric oil heater in the garage. Cheap to buy and run and while it doesn't make it toasty warm, it's plenty warm enough to work. With a 30 degree outside temp, the garage temp is like 60. That's for a big two-car garage.

wleehendrick
01-07-2015, 12:33 PM
Supposed to be 25 here in the morning tomorrow. You won't see me working in that cold. LOL.

Brrr... I thought Florida was supposed to be warm?

It's been a little chilly in the morning here:

37379 :cool:

nkw8181
01-08-2015, 05:51 PM
Does Florida even have Heaters??

wallace18
01-08-2015, 06:01 PM
Does Florida even have Heaters??

None that work well below 40 degrees. LOL.

wleehendrick
01-08-2015, 06:10 PM
Does Florida even have Heaters??

When I was in Scottsdale AZ all we had was a heat pump; basically running the AC system 'backwards' for warmth. Works well when it's cool, but very inefficient when really cold outside. I think a lot of South Florida construction is similar, but I hope Tom has a furnace with the temps he's been having!

Kalstar
01-08-2015, 06:28 PM
Fiberglass burns well....just say'n.

Ellimist
01-08-2015, 08:40 PM
30 degree outside temp, the garage temp is like 60. That's for a big two-car garage.
That seems pretty good. Main thing holding me up from breaking down my donor is I'm insulating/finishing the garage (can't have cars in there while drywalling a 12 ft ceiling...), and I sure hold I can match (or hopefully) beat those numbers!

metalmaker12
01-08-2015, 09:11 PM
Suck it up and get out there and get er done

ohhhhh poor thing lol, get to work

metalmaker12
01-08-2015, 09:12 PM
Here is the actual wheel. I am still waiting on tires, lugs and locks. Hope to have some fed ex stuff show up today so I can get going again. Supposed to be 25 here in the morning tomorrow. You won't see me working in that cold. LOL.

37376

whats the offset or offsets, same size all around??I like em, but hopefully there staggered

Kalstar
01-08-2015, 09:24 PM
whats the offset or offsets, same size all around??I like em, but hopefully there staggered

They are square. 17x7.5 40. Tires will be mounted are 205/40/17. Stock power. Lets see how it handles it.

metalmaker12
01-08-2015, 10:36 PM
It's not power, it's about stance, but with studs and the correct spacers it should look good. I like the look. I will check em to see the different offsets and sizes offered.

Bob_n_Cincy
01-09-2015, 03:34 AM
They are square. 17x7.5 40. Tires will be mounted are 205/40/17. Stock power. Lets see how it handles it.
I was running 225/45-16 R888 square autocrossing this past fall with stock power. A little heavy foot in a corner and your going around unless you have very quick hands.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZ7PRMYRqRw

In this video you can see how much travel you get in the front suspension with NO front sway bar. (stock 818s springs and shocks)

Bob

Frank818
01-09-2015, 08:54 AM
Fiberglass burns well....just say'n.

So does fuel.

Kalstar
01-09-2015, 09:06 AM
I was running 225/45-16 R888 square autocrossing this past fall with stock power. A little heavy foot in a corner and your going around unless you have very quick hands.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZ7PRMYRqRw

In this video you can see how much travel you get in the front suspension with NO front sway bar. (stock 818s springs and shocks)

Bob

Very cool vid. You are right about the travel. I have 235/45/17 rear tires sitting in the loft if the 205 will not handle the power output, as for the fronts, well there will be a larger learning curve. This car will be most likely be more street then track but I 100% plan to learn some skills on track with it.

R.Spec
01-09-2015, 05:13 PM
As far as I can tell everything is working as it should. Tactrix ecu flash will not read my ECU for some reason an error code comes up every time. I have sent log files to them and they are having problems figuring it out as well. I have some new debugging software to try today. wish me luck.

What is the error code that comes up. I might be of some help, I have flashed over like 500 cars.

freds
01-09-2015, 06:26 PM
What is the error code that comes up. I might be of some help, I have flashed over like 500 cars.

It is not clear to me if you are actually "getting into" the ECU, or if you are actually able to access the ECU and then getting an error code. So just in case I am directing to http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15001-Ask-Answer-Engine-Calibration-Question&p=160405#post160405 which shows the display when I couldn't "get in".

My donor ECU was in fact Access Port locked , so until I got someone to remove the AP tune and replace it with an "open source" tune Romraider and ECU flash were useless.

Once I had an open source tune I could read "everything" and get rid of CEL code etc. using Romraider/Tactrix &ECU flash.

fred

wallace18
01-09-2015, 07:01 PM
I was lucky TWGAB from the forum flashed 2 ecu's I had. It may be a problem with my laptop. All I know is the stock harness and ECU is a pain in the a**!!! LOL. Now when some parts show up I can get going again.

freds
01-09-2015, 08:40 PM
I was lucky TWGAB from the forum flashed 2 ecu's I had. It may be a problem with my laptop. All I know is the stock harness and ECU is a pain in the a**!!! LOL. Now when some parts show up I can get going again.

Just curious....did he flash open source tunes? He may have flashed Cobb tunes which are locked. Sounds like do you have a handle on it, but.... my curiosity is aroused. What is coming up on your computer when it fails to "get in"?

twgab
01-10-2015, 07:37 AM
I flashed them with ECUflash, open source, so he will be good for many more flashes, if nessasary.

metalmaker12
01-10-2015, 07:57 AM
I was lucky TWGAB from the forum flashed 2 ecu's I had. It may be a problem with my laptop. All I know is the stock harness and ECU is a pain in the a**!!! LOL. Now when some parts show up I can get going again.

Is has to be your computer. I wish you had a better experience. I have been working with modern oem and aftermarket Ecu's for at least ten years and the subaru wiring and ecu are one of the best for oem setups for tuning IMO. There like any obd2 a bit finicky sometimes but there fully tunable and have countless tables to work off for each attribute. In fact for a subie the oem 32 bit ecu ( not so much the 16 you have) is better than any aftermarket setup I have used. subaru used factory Ecu's to win championships, they can't be that bad. Just keep pluging at it, you will get used to it more and see how it can be great. Glad to here he flashed it for you. I would have done the same or had it done etc. My laptop is down so I have to get it fixed or get a new one to run mapping software.

freds
01-10-2015, 08:18 AM
I flashed them with ECUflash, open source, so he will be good for many more flashes, if nessasary.

thanks

Kalstar
01-12-2015, 12:19 PM
thanks

Here is a shot of the last car Wallace built. This video was taken at the Underground meet in Boston on the 29th. The 818 starts at the 1:10. BTW video starts out like it is freezing, guess they designed it that way. Stick with it. The 818 was a big hit.

http://vimeo.com/115800322

metalmaker12
01-12-2015, 12:38 PM
Cool video

Ellimist
01-12-2015, 11:05 PM
Cool video
Second that!

wallace18
01-13-2015, 04:27 PM
3760137602

I am 2/3rds done with the console. I have the shifter and e-brk boots done. Heated seats switches, cell charging port and cup holder installed. Got wheels and tires mounted and balanced today. Started mounting the sides, rear, hoods. Lots of massaging to be done. I forgot who much work needed for the body to fit correctly. But going good so far.

Kalstar
01-13-2015, 09:18 PM
Looks great. Really, Really Great. Getting close. Have you started the F5R windshield wipers yet? are you the first to tackle the wipers?

wallace18
01-14-2015, 08:04 AM
Looks great. Really, Really Great. Getting close. Have you started the F5R windshield wipers yet? are you the first to tackle the wipers?

I won't start on wipers till the whole body work is installed. Not sure if I will be the first customer install or not. I plan on mocking up the exhaust next then remove the bodywork installed so far for trimming and rivnut installation. All bodywork will be installed with S/S removable hardware so your vinyl wrap can be installed easier IMO. I hope seats get here soon so I can finish wiring speakers and such. Then I can finish console and interior work as well.

wallace18
01-14-2015, 05:21 PM
Mounted the rear view camera in the exact location Mr. K. wanted. Also started to mock up exhaust system. I used a Raptor Turbo muffler. System is all 2.5". I'll finish it tomorrow. Whole unit cost 75 bucks to make.

376303763137632

freds
01-14-2015, 05:31 PM
Looks great. Really, Really Great. Getting close. Have you started the F5R windshield wipers yet? are you the first to tackle the wipers?


Check http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16276-Windshield-wipers

07FIREBLADE
01-14-2015, 07:19 PM
What rear view camera did you use for the install and what screen are you running it to? I was looking for a good location for it, it reminds me of the SLS i drove the other day, so low to the ground, almost weird to look at when reversing but I didn't hit anything.

wallace18
01-14-2015, 08:04 PM
What rear view camera did you use for the install and what screen are you running it to? I was looking for a good location for it, it reminds me of the SLS i drove the other day, so low to the ground, almost weird to look at when reversing but I didn't hit anything.

Kalstar bought the camera. Not sure where he got it. If I was a betting man I would say e-bay. LOL. The radio he had me install has a screen on it and you wire the camera and Back up switch to it for the back up camera mode.

07FIREBLADE
01-14-2015, 08:45 PM
Ok sounds good, I was looking at the ebay ones that were available and was deciding on one of those or springing for a name brand one like the pioneer, alpine, etc. I will ask him about where he got it.

Kalstar
01-15-2015, 09:05 AM
07 Fireblade.

Here is the new version of the one I bought. When looking make sure it's waterproof, color, night vision and is wired to automatically switch on with brake lights (some are on toggle).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Car-Rear-View-Reverse-Backup-Parking-Camera-170-1-4-Color-CMOS-NTSC-/121325656885?pt=US_Rear_View_Monitors_Cams_Kits&hash=item1c3f929b35

This is a good one too...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockville-RBC2-Night-Vision-Car-Backup-Camera-w-Distance-Lines-Flush-Mount-/301261098099?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46248f8c73&vxp=mtr

When I bought mine it was camera only. Make sure it comes with power cord and A/V cable too (my bad).

Here is the new version of the head unit too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-ACOUSTIK-PD-344-IN-DASH-CAR-DVD-CD-MP3-USB-AUX-PLAYER-3-4-TFT-LCD-MONITOR-/161472191847?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item25987e1d67

metalmaker12
01-15-2015, 11:43 AM
It's not a bad idea since you can't see to well backing up. I stand myself up by holding myself on role bar and feather clucth do I can see better backing up.

Jim it's nice to see your own 818 coming together, road tuning mine sun. Gotta get it all dialed in so I can hit the dyno

Also I don't see any details on winter open house.

FFRSpec72
01-15-2015, 12:23 PM
It's not a bad idea since you can't see to well backing up.

I'll use one to see the other 818R behind me at the finish of the race

Kalstar
01-15-2015, 03:54 PM
List of extras in the K818s build. Since others asked on the camera, happy to share where I got the other extras if anyone is interested in a particular option.

Cipher racing seats
Wipers (F5R)
Full carpet (F5R)
Steering wheel upgrade (F5R)
Custom Trunk **
F5R new door skins
Extra loud horns (car is small...read invisible)
GTMatt sound control
Cell phone charger port
Cup holder
Upgraded center console
Seat heaters (top and bottom) both sides
Back up Camara
Auto system w/4 speakers and subwoofer.
Tablet with blue tooth diagnostics (Desk top dyno)
Bluetooth OBD transmitter **
Ruff R-351 wheels
Carbon fiber ( defusser and canards)
Aftermarket rear lateral links
New Clutch kit (not my choice) was junk from donor.
New eBay Radiator (crash took out donor one).
Exhaust with Raptor muffler (Tom's creation)
Interior accent pieces to match white stitch in seats
Slotted rotors (more for the look then anything else)
Full body wrap **

**= will be done after Tom finishes and delivers his masterpiece.

07FIREBLADE
01-15-2015, 04:20 PM
Nice list thanks for the camera details.

Ellimist
01-15-2015, 08:47 PM
Hardtop **
Custom or waiting for the future FFR one (if/when it happens..)?

Kalstar
01-15-2015, 10:06 PM
Custom or waiting for the future FFR one (if/when it happens..)?

F5R hardtop.

wallace18
01-16-2015, 10:40 AM
Well after finally getting most of the parts I needed. Still waiting on seats and 4.25 speakers I was able to go-cart today. I had to completely rebuild the IAC. Now with TWGAB's reflash the engine purrs like a kitten, idles at 600rpm and no CEL's. Thanks again TWGAB. Car is very quiet compared to orange car. LOL. Drives very smooth. Fast but not as retina flatting as Orange car. Still very entertaining to drive. Wheels are not correct for car and hit sway bar and body in turns. Kalstar will fix that later IAT. Everything engine wise works good, no leaks, no overheat. Brakes are good as well as shifting. Engine is stock except for exhaust and intake. Cobb cold air fits nice in 818S IMO. Car may need further tuning due to intake and exhaust. Not in my area of expertise. I am very happy with the go-cart test, nice to see it run and drive it after waiting so long. Here is a short video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ts-hTRa_PIY&feature=youtu.be

Kurk818
01-16-2015, 11:03 AM
Nice work. Sounds great as well.

Kalstar
01-16-2015, 11:49 AM
Sounds great. I like that it is not loud as the orange car but still has the turbo whistle.

R.Spec
01-16-2015, 01:48 PM
Looks awesome! Definitely adjust that tune for the cobb intake. The Maf curve is quite a bit different and needs more fuel. Usually about 5-7% of fuel added above 3.6v and up.

FFRSpec72
01-16-2015, 01:56 PM
Did you just use this for the air intake ? http://www.cobbtuning.com/Subaru-SF-Intake-Kit-p/712100.htm

wallace18
01-16-2015, 02:09 PM
Yes, It goes right into the stock hose that went to the Air cleaner. I made my own bracket though. Here is some photos.

376633766437665

Harley818
01-17-2015, 12:56 AM
FFRSpec - there is an extra smooth silicone hose that Cobb also sells to go with the Cobb inlet. it fits between the Cobb intake and the stock turbo intake. You can see it on Wallace picture. Cobb one is smooth but Wallace looks like a ribbed hose. I bought one and it fits just like Wallace's. I used an aftermarket turbo inlet.

idf
01-17-2015, 08:45 AM
I also used the Cobb intake with a silicone adapter from Autozone. I shortened the intake by 3/8 in to give clearance to the chassis. The bracket is my son's first fabrication from scratch. In the photos you can also see my approach to relocating the coolant reservoir (3/4 by 1/2 in aluminum angle). 3770937710

wallace18
01-17-2015, 11:36 AM
Ran into a small problem with the front speakers. There is only about 1.5"- 2" clearance behind the aluminum to mount speakers in the sides in the front Kalstar bought some very nice Polk Audio 5.25" speakers. Unfortunately they were too deep to mount right to the aluminum, they hit the body. I made some spacers out of wood and covered them with black headliner material. It stretches nice and looks good in this application IMO. I needed to locate and wire the fronts before I start on more of the body work. I mounted the carpet in this area also here is some pics.

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Kalstar
01-18-2015, 07:17 AM
Hopefully the sound as good as they look. On a side note, do we need a radio antena?

wallace18
01-18-2015, 07:42 AM
Hopefully the sound as good as they look. On a side note, do we need a radio antenna?

Already bought and installed.

wallace18
01-21-2015, 03:53 PM
I have had a bad cold for the last few days. Today was first day I ventured outside. I wired up all the lights in the rear as well as the b/u camera. Still having some parts problems but moving on.

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Frank818
01-21-2015, 07:54 PM
Will you be using a round trim piece like Chad on your exhaust tip, well the mesh around?

wallace18
01-22-2015, 08:28 AM
Will you be using a round trim piece like Chad on your exhaust tip, well the mesh around?

Right now no. But Kalstar will put his own special touches to the car when delivered.

wallace18
01-22-2015, 03:18 PM
Fitted the gas cap and hose today as well as started on top rear panels. A trick I do is I push the hose on the metal tube and leave a little hanging out. I mark it with a silver sharpie. Then cut along that line to get a perfect fit when cap is installed on the body. Just thought that might help someone out in the future. I'll post it on the tricks and tips also.

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AZPete
01-22-2015, 05:36 PM
Thanks for mentioning the ground wire on the fuel filler in your other post. I'd forgotten about it. (Ka-BOOM!) It should go from the filler cap - not just the pipe - to the frame, right? And, maybe add more detail to your post in the Tips & Tricks for other guys?

wallace18
01-22-2015, 06:14 PM
Thanks for mentioning the ground wire on the fuel filler in your other post. I'd forgotten about it. (Ka-BOOM!) It should go from the filler cap - not just the pipe - to the frame, right? And, maybe add more detail to your post in the Tips & Tricks for other guys?

that is correct. gas cap to ground.

wallace18
01-24-2015, 02:52 PM
Started on the doors. I countersink 6-1.0mm flat head screws into the frame and latch assembly. Remember because these are rear door latches they have child proof locks. I disable them as well as the regular lock. This way after the door panel is on and you slam the door the lock does not engage and make a bad situation LOL. I use the kits 1/4 -20 flat head Allen bolts up front and 3 small 1/8" rivets to hold the door skin to the frame. I was able to get very nice 3/16" gaps, IMO. Doors open and close nice too.

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Frank818
01-26-2015, 07:49 PM
What post about the ground wire on the filler cap?

RM1SepEx
01-26-2015, 08:16 PM
Excellent looking doors Tom!

Ellimist
01-26-2015, 10:37 PM
What post about the ground wire on the filler cap?

He posted it in the 818 assemply tips: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11115-818-assembly-tips-add-yours&p=186142&viewfull=1#post186142

metalmaker12
01-27-2015, 04:01 PM
Looks like you have done this before!!!

Kalstar
01-27-2015, 10:21 PM
Wow those gaps look perfect. Outstanding!

wallace18
01-28-2015, 01:50 PM
Mounted the rear diffuser. I could not have it stick out like my orange car due to b/u camera location. Still looks good to me. Mounted it all with 10-32 screws to frame.

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FFRSpec72
01-28-2015, 02:33 PM
Mounted the rear diffuser. I could not have it stick out like my orange car due to b/u camera location. Still looks good to me. Mounted it all with 10-32 screws to frame.



No under the engine/diffuser aluminum, not sure you are going to get the desired effects of the diffuser w/o that ?

wallace18
01-28-2015, 03:25 PM
No under the engine/diffuser aluminum, not sure you are going to get the desired effects of the diffuser w/o that ?

They are there. Maybe time for new glasses? LOL. Just kidding. All is black so the fins are hard to see. No under engine aluminum comes with the diffuser. I doubt the car will ever go fast enough to make down force from it. Mostly for the looks IMO.

FFRSpec72
01-28-2015, 04:18 PM
No under engine aluminum comes with the diffuser.

It's true for early orders it was not included but if you call they will send you the under the engine aluminum as it was supposed to come with it. It looks great, nice job, I hope to be at this stage soon

Harley818
01-29-2015, 02:43 AM
The fit on your doors is great. I hope I can do as well. Hopefully getting to that in the next 4 - 6 weeks.
Nice work so far.

wallace18
01-29-2015, 03:08 PM
Not much to post. I have mostly been coating aluminum panels. I did mock up the wipers yesterday. Very easy install. I will need to remove them to fit hood, fenders and nose first though. They come off in a minute with 4 screws.

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billjr212
01-29-2015, 04:06 PM
are you planning to cut the hood as suggested by FFR for the wiper kit or have you come up with another way to get them to clear?

wallace18
01-29-2015, 07:03 PM
are you planning to cut the hood as suggested by FFR for the wiper kit or have you come up with another way to get them to clear?

Going to do just as FFR kit suggests.

Ellimist
01-29-2015, 09:03 PM
Going to do just as FFR kit suggests.
Understandable, but I was sure wishing you had something else in mind! ;-). I, myself, got the wiper kit but I've been wondering why so much of the hood needs to be cut away - thinking there could be a way to fit the wiper underneath, but I guess it's just too tight and doing that would mean re-shaping the hood, eh?

metalmaker12
01-29-2015, 09:12 PM
It can be done, myself and others have done it. The kit is the easy effective way. I too am not a fan of how the hood gets cut out, but FFR saw that as the best solution, plus it is the only offered wiper kit.

Kalstar
01-29-2015, 09:32 PM
Factory Five's was not my choice option. My first choice was.....

http://www.hotcarszone.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Sexy-Hong-Kong-car-wash-girl-in-bikini-3_thumb.jpg

My wife countered with.....

http://media.247sports.com/Uploads/Boards/172/58172/108666.jpg

In the end....the Factory Five option was clearly the best choice.

Ellimist
01-29-2015, 10:34 PM
Factory Five's was not my choice option. My first choice was.....

http://www.hotcarszone.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Sexy-Hong-Kong-car-wash-girl-in-bikini-3_thumb.jpg

My wife countered with.....

http://media.247sports.com/Uploads/Boards/172/58172/108666.jpg

In the end....the Factory Five option was clearly the best choice.

Hahahaha, I think you made the right choice.

metalmaker12
01-30-2015, 07:32 AM
Factory Five's was not my choice option. My first choice was.....

http://www.hotcarszone.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Sexy-Hong-Kong-car-wash-girl-in-bikini-3_thumb.jpg

My wife countered with.....

http://media.247sports.com/Uploads/Boards/172/58172/108666.jpg

In the end....the Factory Five option was clearly the best choice.

I will take number 1

wallace18
01-30-2015, 03:26 PM
Enough of the girly stuff! LOL. Today I was able to start on the front end, fenders and front hood. Still lots of adjusting, trimming and fitting to do. But I like how it is all lining up so far.. Make sure your radiator frame is square and correct height at body pickup points.

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wallace18
02-04-2015, 04:21 PM
Believe it or not I have been working on the K818S. Just nothing exciting to post. After trimming all 3 hoods, I started mounting hood pins. Mr. K. wants screws for the plates for easy removal when his body man does final body work and vinyl wrap. Also got in the speaker baffles. Make for a nice install IMO. I also installed the wheel well splash guards. I found out that the kit came with 2 RR wheel well half moon tins. Also door pulls missing. FFR is send the right stuff down to me. Boy what a great company to deal with IMO. Here are some pics. Still waiting on seats, but should be here in a couple weeks. I have made every body part removable with screws or pins. This way body shop and wrap guy will not have to drill out rivets to finish up car.

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Frank818
02-04-2015, 04:55 PM
Has the hood and fenders be trimmed the clear out the windshield, like you mentioned about your other car in that other thread in Body section?

K3LAG
02-04-2015, 06:52 PM
I found out that the kit came with 2 RR wheel well half moon tins.

That's funny. Mine came with two lefts.

Larry

wallace18
02-04-2015, 07:42 PM
Has the hood and fenders be trimmed the clear out the windshield, like you mentioned about your other car in that other thread in Body section?

Yes I trimmed both.

Kalstar
02-04-2015, 10:11 PM
Looking fantastic!!

How I your Coupe going? You must be getting excited.

Ellimist
02-04-2015, 11:19 PM
I have made every body part removable with screws or pins. This way body shop and wrap guy will not have to drill out rivets to finish up car.
I've been thinking of doing the same thing. Could you elaborate on "screws"? Seems like rivnuts/bolts would be the best option. Is fiberglass really resilient enough to handle screwing/unscrewing screws multiple times? Any recommendation on which screws to use for this if that's a decent option? Or, any recommendation on re-inforcing the fiberglass for screws?

wallace18
02-05-2015, 07:42 AM
I've been thinking of doing the same thing. Could you elaborate on "screws"? Seems like rivnuts/bolts would be the best option. Is fiberglass really resilient enough to handle screwing/unscrewing screws multiple times? Any recommendation on which screws to use for this if that's a decent option? Or, any recommendation on re-inforcing the fiberglass for screws?

I used the screw that came with the hood pins. Kalstar will be removing body panels and such. Normally I would rivet the chrome rings after paint. For the body here is what I use.
I use 10-32 screws to the frame in the larger diameter frame rails. I use a drill tap and tap threads into the frame. Elseware I use 10-24 or 1/4 - 20 rivnuts. In low stress areas I use screws that are in the kit. Still use rivets for most aluminum panels.

wallace18
02-05-2015, 07:45 AM
Looking fantastic!!

How I your Coupe going? You must be getting excited.

Check out my latest post on the coupe. It is in 1st stage primer. Yes I am getting antsy. But your kit is coming along nicely and has given me a lot of pride to get closer to the finish.

Kalstar
02-05-2015, 10:53 AM
Check out my latest post on the coupe. It is in 1st stage primer. Yes I am getting antsy. But your kit is coming along nicely and has given me a lot of pride to get closer to the finish.

You have earned that pride. Well done my friend!

I will check out your coupe build log now.

wallace18
02-09-2015, 03:49 PM
The last few days I have been trying to finish up the body work stuff. I mounted all the panels and hood pins. I made an adjustable brace for the rear bumper. It was flexing out too far. I mounted the rear speakers in the hump area as per Mr. K. Also mounted the intercooler ducts. I added a little material to close gaps I had to the intercooler. I started on the wipers but found out I was missing the new wiper arms. I thought I had to use the donor ones. FFR set me straight and have a pair heading my way. Still waiting on seats and some other minor stuff. I will most likely move the K818S to my other rack and cover it up till all the parts arrive. I will get back to my coupe build the rest of this month and most of March as well. Here is some pics.

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Frank818
02-12-2015, 08:19 AM
You are mounting the body so quickly and so perfect, nice job.

flynntuna
02-12-2015, 09:26 AM
Looks great, I like the speakers in the humps. Are you using the kick panels or doors too?

wallace18
02-12-2015, 09:57 AM
Looks great, I like the speakers in the humps. Are you using the kick panels or doors too?

check out post 175. you can see the front speakers.

wallace18
03-02-2015, 04:51 PM
I started back on this build today some. I hope to finish this car and deliver it by the last week of March. The missing parts are supposed to be here by Wednesday this week. Today I mounted the mirrors and door panels. The padded FFR door panels are much better than the early version I got with my orange 818S IMO. I used plastic push pins as per my customers wishes. Personally I would have used screws. The panels fit fairly nice. I never got the t-weather-strip to put between the panel and the door. Mr. K will take care of that after delivery. I hope to start some carpet tomorrow. Here is some pics. Note: I put an access plug in the door panel near the striker to get to the child lock button in case it ever moves by accident.

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Ellimist
03-02-2015, 07:18 PM
Sorry if you've already said and I'm not remembering - what side mirrors are you using on this build? Was thinking they were the same as orange car but they look different somehow.

NBinSD
03-02-2015, 08:17 PM
What's the trim piece you used between the column and the dash, below the plastic subaru colummn cover piece? It looks great.

wallace18
03-03-2015, 06:36 AM
Sorry if you've already said and I'm not remembering - what side mirrors are you using on this build? Was thinking they were the same as orange car but they look different somehow.

Exact same mirrors. From Speedway. Ref other build.

wallace18
03-03-2015, 06:37 AM
What's the trim piece you used between the column and the dash, below the plastic subaru colummn cover piece? It looks great.

Same as my first 818. It is a piece of black headliner material.

wallace18
03-03-2015, 03:56 PM
I made some aluminum panels for the rear corners of the interior. The pieces that FFR supplies do not fit very well IMO. I made these painted in black wrinkle paint and attached with a rivet. Much easier to install than the kits part IMO. I am working on the carpet some. Waiting for the seats to come tomorrow. Then I can finish up this in short order. Hopefully have the windshield installed next week.

392993930039301

Frank818
03-05-2015, 12:56 PM
I like what you did. You do an awesome job, I envy you.

wallace18
03-05-2015, 07:45 PM
Well the seats came yesterday. I was able to mount the subwoofer, finish the carpet, finish up the console and start to install the seats. I still have some custom brackets to make as well as terminate the seat belts as well. Then just some touch up stuff and have the windshield installed. The stereo sounds great. Shout out to Kalstar for the speakers and radio he got. Every thing works very well together. I was rocking out to some ZZ-Top while doing carpet, LOL. We had some issues with the seats but installed them anyway. Note: we installed the FFR supplied fuel tank. I am 6'3" tall with a 30" inseam and weigh about 240LBS. Not a lot of room IMO. If you are over 5"10" you should get the Boyd Tank IMO. Here are some photos.

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wallace18
03-07-2015, 12:25 PM
Installing these seats and the stock Subaru 3-point belts was a chore. But with a little praying I got it done. I am done with almost everything now. I am leaving off the hood and wiper cowl for Mauldin's Auto Glass to install the windshield on Tuesday 3/10/15. Then I will finish up anything left to be done. Give it a good wipe down and load it up to head to Kalstar by the 29th if weather permits. I have to help my brother Curt in Quakertown, PA. he is moving to a retirement/ nursing home and needs help cleaning his home for sale. He got Parkinson's a few years ago and it is getting progressively worse. So I will kill 2 birds with one stone so to speak. Help out Curt and deliver the K818S. I kidded Kalstar that if I hit the lottery I would buy back my orange 818S, LOL. He is going to sell it now that his car is being delivered. Here is a few pics of the interior and it loading in my trailer to go to Mauldin's.

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metalmaker12
03-07-2015, 12:57 PM
Nice job on interior and overall build man. Now your a veteran 818 builder.

wallace18
03-07-2015, 01:09 PM
Nice job on interior and overall build man. Now your a veteran 818 builder.

Thanks, It has been an interesting build. I do think that given all the parts to build right from the start, I can build one in 90 days or less. Parts delays took this build a lot longer than needed. I am happy with the outcome and look forward to building Factory five kits for customers in the future.

Kalstar
03-07-2015, 01:19 PM
Nice job on interior and overall build man. Now your a veteran 818 builder.

It does look fantastic! Lots of cool stuff to come. I have 2 cabinets filled with add-ons.

Aluminum Momo floor plates.
I pad Mini mount.
Wireless OBD2 reader (all info displayed on ipad)
Real carbon fiber panels for covering the custom console Tom made.
Carbon fiber fabric to match seats installed in doors and dash insert.
Very cool electronic shift Knob
Summit car heater
Interior lights that work when you open the door
Factory Five Carbon package (spoiler and rockers)
Carbon fiber wing/spoiler.
818 specific car cover
Waiting on the roll of vinyl wrap to come in.
Waiting on the Bluetooth front mount camera
Waiting on the hardtop
Of course also a dyno tune once back up here.


Tom thank you soooo much for building such an awesome canvas. I look forward to adding my custom touches (on top of those that you already installed for me). Well done indeed.

wallace18
03-07-2015, 01:31 PM
Don't forget to get the t-weather-strip stuff to finish the door panels up. Check with FFR it is listed in the 818 manual update. I have all your paperwork ready, CD of all manual updates, Photos and instructions on how to completely take the body and seats out of the car. Look forward to seeing you on the 29th. I will post photos of the car after windshield installed. Looks like you will be a busy man, LOL. Lots of nice additions seem to be on the way. You have a good canvas to start with.

wallace18
03-12-2015, 10:19 AM
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Well I picked up the K818S from Mauldin's Auto Glass today. They did a great job as usual. I was able to finish up the wipers and hood. Wipers work great, IMO. I like how they look too. Car looks good in photos. Due to being an early production body there are a lot of imperfections to be fixed IMO. This is where I stop and leave it to the customer to have a pro body man take care of the rest.

I want to take time to thank Kalstar for trusting me and being my first customer car. Also thanks to FFR, my wife Marsha and all the forum members as well. I have the car all covered up till I get back from South Florida on the 17th. I'll then load it up and head to Pa. to help out my brother move. Then go to Kalstar's on the 29th to deliver the K818S to its owner.

wallace18
03-12-2015, 10:27 AM
For anyone who has followed this build and may be interested in me building a car for them, you can contact me either PM or at wallace18@gru.net. I can build any FFR car to this stage of completion for a fairly reasonable fee. There are lots of very good builders out there and I just want to let folks know I am available to talk to about it. It has been a pleasure doing this build and documenting it here in the forum. I hope I was some help to those building their own as they have been a help to me. TW.

39571

Samiam1017
03-13-2015, 10:10 AM
somebody let him build them another car! his build threads are always a pleasure to follow!

Kalstar
03-13-2015, 10:45 AM
When the car reaches up here, it will be dropped at SMG Motoring (F5R's chosen tuner). Toward the middle of May the car will be wrapped in orange chrome metallic with gunmetal accents to match the wheels. The final step will be to add all of the carbon fiber bits and pieces. Hopefully the coupe body will be ready for the open house.

metalmaker12
03-13-2015, 03:52 PM
Cool stuff.

wallace18
03-27-2015, 05:19 PM
Well I moved my brother to State College,Pa. without any problems. I am about 20 minutes away from FFR tonight in a Marriot. I am taking Kalstars 818S to a tuner for him tommorow at noon. Then help him with a little machanicl work at his home later in the day. Supposed to snow tommorow, Yipes! LOL. Hope to be heading back to Florida by 6 PM tommorow. I may stop by FFR to see coupe top. I'll post pics when I get home on Monday.

Kalstar
03-28-2015, 06:32 PM
Well the car came in and it is better then the pics can show. Well done my friend, well done in deed....It really is a beautiful car, even in just gel coat it's still a stunner. Now the question is which one gets put up for sale the White one or the Orange one. Both have things the other does not. I don't need (2) 818's but this will be a hard choice.....Maybe first to sell, I keep the other....

Either way one of these cars will have the hard top.

Ellimist
03-29-2015, 11:49 PM
Well the car came in and it is better then the pics can show. Well done my friend, well done in deed....It really is a beautiful car, even in just gel coat it's still a stunner. Now the question is which one gets put up for sale the White one or the Orange one. Both have things the other does not. I don't need (2) 818's but this will be a hard choice.....Maybe first to sell, I keep the other....

Either way one of these cars will have the hard top.

You could just keep both, loan one out at any given time, and swap the loaner every year or so. (Dibs on the first loan car, LOL)

wallace18
03-30-2015, 06:56 AM
I made it home safe and sound. It was nice to be in Florida again. Here is some pics of FFR and the K818S at SMG waiting on its tune. I hit a ton of snow heading to Pa. on Saturday night. I slipped and slides but made it OK. LOL. Thanks again to Kalstar for allowing me to build him an 818. I am available if anyone would want a FFR car built.

4006240063400644006540066

Kalstar
03-31-2015, 07:21 PM
Car was baselined tonight (real tuning will happen tomorrow). Running rich and slightly out of tune due to the CIA... the car put down 190 wheel. SMG Motoring feels there is as much as 30hp left in the tune. We will see what she puts down after the tune. Keep in mind this is basically bone stock except for the CIA (stock airbox was cracked). Figured it is good info for all the builders building near stock to know what to expect. A stock WRX looses about 22%DLL (165-170whp) so we are picking up about 8% by eliminating the AWD.

metalmaker12
04-01-2015, 03:32 AM
Good info, about what I came up with also. That's good power on stock trim. You should get another 30. I am going to road tune and then fully dyno again soon. April 18 myself and a friend who's an awesome local tuner are going to road tune it to make sure we're running safe. Than the dyno to see what this pig can put down.

wallace18
04-01-2015, 07:10 AM
Car was baselined tonight (real tuning will happen tomorrow). Running rich and slightly out of tune due to the CIA... the car put down 190 wheel. SMG Motoring feels there is as much as 30hp left in the tune. We will see what she puts down after the tune. Keep in mind this is basically bone stock except for the CIA (stock airbox was cracked). Figured it is good info for all the builders building near stock to know what to expect. A stock WRX looses about 22%DLL (165-170whp) so we are picking up about 8% by eliminating the AWD.

The car will be very enjoyable with that kind of power.

Kalstar
04-01-2015, 11:25 AM
Dyno tune is done. Results were 227whp/213wtq.

matteo92065
04-01-2015, 11:47 AM
Car was baselined tonight (real tuning will happen tomorrow). Running rich and slightly out of tune due to the CIA... the car put down 190 wheel. SMG Motoring feels there is as much as 30hp left in the tune. We will see what she puts down after the tune. Keep in mind this is basically bone stock except for the CIA (stock airbox was cracked). Figured it is good info for all the builders building near stock to know what to expect. A stock WRX looses about 22%DLL (165-170whp) so we are picking up about 8% by eliminating the AWD.

Yes, thanks for sharing this. Just to help clarify this WRX motor is a 2002 as stated on page 1.
Now can someone do the same for a 2006? :)

Kalstar
04-01-2015, 12:29 PM
Yes 2002 WRX 2.0L with 86k miles.

RM1SepEx
04-01-2015, 03:39 PM
That is using the bellmouth and 2.5 exhaust, muffler, no cat? Open source tune?

metalmaker12
04-01-2015, 05:44 PM
Pretty much exactly what you wanted.

RM1SepEx
04-01-2015, 07:16 PM
Makes me think my 05 with 70K, cone filter intake and 3 inch bellmouth, cat and muffler with stage 2 Cobb should be 230-240 as well... fingers crossed, we will know soon

Bob_n_Cincy
04-01-2015, 10:31 PM
Yes, thanks for sharing this. Just to help clarify this WRX motor is a 2002 as stated on page 1.
Now can someone do the same for a 2006? :)

Matt,
My engine is the same as a stock 06 WRX. See my post here http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12534-MRG-MotorSports-818S-Build&p=172896&viewfull=1#post172896

Kalstar,
Lookin good.
Do you know what your boost numbers were at?
Bob

wallace18
04-02-2015, 05:36 AM
Just to clarify the exhaust uses the FFR turbo adapter and a 2.5" exhaust with a 2.5" Raptor turbo muffler.

40165

Kalstar
04-02-2015, 06:49 AM
I would guess the muffler robs some power but I like the quietness far better then the 5-7hp I think it costs. As for the exhaust, when I bought it, it was spec'ed for the 2.0l, maybe the 2.5-2.0 exhaust is interchangeable. At current power levels it has a p/w slightly better then a 2015 Corvette Stingray (and that is assuming the 818 at 1910lbs). Should be a fun little rocket.