37 Degrees South - RHD 818S build thread

[Junty]

Well hello all fellow 818 builders, I can officially say this now as after much anticipation Chassis 131 818S in RHD arrived today. I'd like to take the opportunity to introduce myself and start documenting the first RHD 818 (not the first chassis - but certainly the first RHD build thread).
From the title - I'm based in New Zealand (Aotearoa). Way down here WRX and subaru are a very popular breed - if it wasn't for the freight and distance from FFR, we could certainly build a great kit car for $15K.
So I first ordered my 818 kit - about the same time as SEMA and online orders were first accepted (sept 2012). I had recently purchased a new HP server for business, and about 1 month later I received a monthly newsletter from HP detailing their contribution/collaboration with SolidWorks in developing a new kit car with FFR. This sparked a burning desire/dream/bucket list - I haven't played with cars since I was a teenager - life, work , career and family is often difficult to manage with motor-sport as a hobby! I envy those that do manage it all.
So anyways my 818S dream quickly became a reality. Last year whilst working across the Tasman I purchased a base donor - 2004 RX Imprezza sedan. Always knowing that my 818 would be turbo - I soon added a 2011 2.5L WRX engine (21,000km). These late model engines in Australasia are dual AVCS, VF52 twin scroll turbo and everything in NZ is JDM spec.
Starting spec's for what we hope to do...
• Donor 2004 Subaru WRX sedan (NA 2.0L)
• Brakes 2008 WRX 4 pot front 2 pot rear (eventually adding 4 pot to rear)
• Keeping Subaru ABS - using this for traction control sensors via MoTec M800 ECU
• Lower front aluminum control arms
• Cusco LSD
• XXR 18 x 9 rear 17 x 8 front with Toyo R888 (thanks Wayne VCP)
• VCP rear trailing arms
• New adjustable rear lateral arms
• New CV joints, Boots, Clutch, Brake Pads and Disks, Bearings, Tie rods… (Every thing new)
• Nissan 1.5 x 12mm wheel studs (about 10mm longer than Subaru) and taller pitch thread
• MoTec ECU, with traction control, cruise control, Drive by wire included in MoTec is anti lag, boost control and dual AVCS valve control.
• TGV delete kit
• Paint, Wrap, TBD – perhaps to be controlled by budget?
• AWIC - custom fabrication
• Intention is get the vehicle street legal and registered, then play… If work commitments are nice to me, might be driving for Kiwi summer?

Dual AVCS has certainly created some issue for me. I first intended to use the easy wiring option and committed to VCP (thanks Wayne) TecS ECU and loom, however just prior to shipping we/I discovered the issue with Dual AVCS - so then Wayne swapped ECU and sent me the COBB V3 access port. However my late 2011 engine didn't come with loom, and Subaru included immobiliser as standard in the ECU, dash assembly and ignition key - so without all 3 I was unlikely to get the COBB or stock ECU to run....
So I elected to buy perhaps the very best after market ECU and management system. The MoTec M800, which includes so many options and inclusions - most importantly 'Traction Control'.
I'll attempt to add a picture of my 818S chassis 131 RHD arriving in shipping crate today! My 3 1/2 year old is my 2IC and he is the one in a high vis vest advising the truck driver where the box can be placed. Let the fun begin...

May I take the opportunity to thank everyone whom I consider the 818 pioneers for posting great build threads. I apologise in advance for all the great idea's I copy and duplicate and I hope that I end up posting useful stuff that will benefit others out there.
31530

[Wayne Presley]

that box is huge! Congrats on it finally arriving

[Mechie3]

That's not a box, that's a mobile house!

[longislandwrx]

^ like

[AZPete]

What a great photo of the project foreman! Your thread of the RHD will be very interesting so please keep us up to date of your progress. Congrats on the long distance delivery.

[DodgyTim]

Hey Justin, good to catch up the other day, I'll be following your build closely
I'll be opening my crate in the next week or so, then the build race will be on;)
Cheers
Tim

[Junty]

Cheers guys, it was a huge box. Its about now that I'll compliment the guys at FFR. What a beautiful job was done packing the crate. Everything individually wrapped - packed and well stacked. This crate has travelled a few miles to get here and although I have yet to check everything off - I cannot see any sign of rubbing marks or damage.
Thanks Tim, It was nice to meet you also - I opened my crate today - then completely emptied it. Tomorrow will be ensuring everything that needs to be here is - then Thursday the build will start.
Thanks to AZPete for posting design for chassis dolly - I copied your idea, with similar concept. Thanks...

[Junty]

Hey guys,
I explained in my introduction that I did order a kit a long time ago and due to my own delays/changes it has taken a lot longer to get the KIT to NZ.
However these long delays did allow a lot of time to study, plan and prepare. I didn't want to start a build thread until I actually had my kit - so I'll post a few historical images of what has been done over the past 12months - preparing donor etc...
Front hubs, cleaned and installed new ARP (Nissan), bearings, disk rotors and pads. I also went to the trouble of stripping the callipers and installing new seals and dust covers. These were completed about 6 months ago - so accumulated some dust now but they look nearly new.
I followed others posts/threads and de-powered the RX steering rack. At the time I used epoxy on the inner (no easy access to TIG) and being a street car i was hoping that this might be a half/half option that would allow a little flexibility?
As with everything kit car related (i'll rely on the pioneers to confirm) a small budget car very quickly becomes large, bigger, then much like the crate the 818 was delivered in absolutely huge! This happened to me - because of ECU issues, trying to get wheels/tires in NZ and because as well as a kit car I wanted a workshop apt to building it, so I purchased a new AC/DC TIG welding with Plasma cutting.
TGV valves were the first mod that I took to and removed them completely.
Attached are a few pictures of the progress along the way preparing parts.
By the way - I feel really sorry for all of you in the USA whom are affected by salt roads. I prepared a Rasmus 'bucket of doom' ready for cleaning parts - but I have absolutely nothing to dip! In Aus/NZ even a 12 year old car has relatively clean parts underneath - man o man does that salt cause havoc in the USA - no salt here...

[gpaterson]

Hey Justin congrats on getting your kit. The next couple of RHD kits destined for NZ are on the water and due mid August. See you at Hampton Downs sometime next year!

Cheers
George

[Junty]

Well day one of the build has been and gone. I only had a couple of hours to work on 818 today - but great feeling to complete part of the build! Firewall installed, front suspension completed, steering rack installed and STI sway-bar almost completed. Build instructions are easy to follow and because I have been planning the 818 build and reading many pioneer 818 build threads - all my donor car parts are ready and waiting, cleaned, new bearings installed, new disk and pads installed. I guess that building this way does make the job easier?

[DodgyTim]

Amazing progress for 1 day
How did the RHD rack go?

[wallace18]

Looking good! And I thought I was fast. LOL.

[Junty]

Thanks Guys, as I mentioned - good preparation of donor parts does make fitment quick and relatively pain free...
Rack fits perfect - however brake and clutch/pedal box is completely different to LHD - USA based cars. There is a lot of fabrication required. I'm just investigating how best tackle this part - might be easier to use alternative pedal box? Other than fabricating to fit pedal box - location interferes with the steering column!

[Junty]

Slow progress this weekend - 'family weekend' so zero 818 build:-(
However today saw completion of suspension. Although still working on steering column/brake pedal assembly (RHD mod's needed), it was fun to push it around on its own feet!
Rear fire wall (behind fuel tank) in the next couple of days - then hopefully can mount the beast that will contribute to motion.

I'll document some of the differences between kit(LHD) pedal assembly and what changes I make to accommodate RHD soon.

[Martin]

Being from NZ myself, I couldn't imagine a better place to have an 818. Narrow roads, lots of short straights, tight bends and plenty of spare parts available (cheap).

I'll be following this thread.

Martin

[STiPWRD]

Great work, your preparation really shows!

[wleehendrick]

Being from NZ myself, I couldn't imagine a better place to have an 818.

But have to watch out for all the sheep! Just kidding... my wife and I honeymooned in NZ and loved it; beautiful country!

[Junty]

Thanks Guys, completed rear firewall, and much of the pedal assembly alterations. As mentioned I'll post a specific thread for RHD versus LHD pedal changes that all RHD builders will inevitably face.
Hey in New Zealand we now have more cows than sheep. Known as the dairy capital of the world, sheep have been declining for the past 20years! But still have great roads, it just more difficult to enjoy them when in rains - so hence once finished with FFR 818 part of the build, I'm going to investigate fabrication of a CF hardtop...

[xatudor]

If the pedal assembly needs alterations, what mods did FFR do to justify charging the extra money for a RHD chassis. Also are the headlights the correct ones for RHD, not being smart, the beam should be a different shape (high on the left) so that you dont blind the oncoming drivers but can still keep a look out for Sheep or Cows on your side of the road.

[Junty]

I'm really happy with the RHD 818. The dash and most parts look excellent. IMO great value for a low volume RHD build and really happy to have paid the extra.
After all this is about $10.7K for RHD plus about $4K shipping... still really happy :-)
View my thread/post in 'brake and suspension' outlining the few hours mod's I've made to make it work easily...

[Junty]

Sorry xatudor, I saved a few dollars by deleting the headlamps from my kit - as I will buy RHD aftermarket - 'angle eyes' or something similar. I expected and wanted to do this long before completing order of kit :-)

[Junty]

Well I didn't have any time today - however yesterday evening I managed to finish off the brake pedal assembly, by building a new connecting rod between the master cylinder and pedal (30mm longer). And I installed the engine and g/box.
That will be all for the next week or so - as I have a family weekend travelling north and then I'm working next week across the Tasman in Australia.

[Junty]

Sorry for lack of updates. Ive unfortunately been away working for the last few weeks - so little or no 818 time.
However, updates of what has been achieved since last post...
1. Installed all brake and clutch lines, including finalising of brake pedal mods for RHD. System bleed, with good pedal pressure! Wonders will amaze as Ive never run brake lines before and there is a lot to do to plumb the ABS system. About now I thank all those prior for posting their rave reviews of the Eastwood flaring system, which I purchased whilst traveling through California in June - thanks!
2. New high volume fuel pump installed in full tank, along with mods for pickup, wiring and installed the level sensor (tank is ready for final install now).
3. Did very rough (eye) line up of rear suspension and bolted everything tight, including installing new CV boots and clamping everything shut...
4. Finished full install of engine and transmission. Bolted all down tight. I initially expected to have to swap the late model engine mounts for the early 2004 donor that I'm using - however the 2011 2.5L turbo including the VF52 clamped straight in - It even clears the rear suspension brace (waste gate) with adequate clearance. I had seen another thread with someone running a VF4? turbo and this had a waste gate clearance issue with the same rear cross member?
5. Installed my Mishimoto radiator and plumbed half the system (LHS).
6. Amongst this limited progress I also had that huge shipping crate to deal to. So it was stripped down to individual boards (nails removed) and a small portion of it has become a great playhouse for my 3.5 year old son. He now thinks that the best thing about dad building a car is that he gets a playhouse... Forget me raving about wheels/tire/exhaust stuff - he just announces that the window should go here....
Ohh - by the way 1.1, 2.1 3.1 4.1 5.1 and 6.1 and continuing is working on the ECU and Engine wiring....... Nothing matches every colour changes, so needs to be individually traced.

[DodgyTim]

You are making great progress, any prediction on when you'll go-kart?

[AZPete]

Great progress and nice photos. Most of us would have built the steps to the play house on the left. ;)

[Junty]

Some but not a lot of 818 progress this week. I'm away working across the Tasman - so little time for 818 other than buying additional parts ;-)
This week...
1. Finished radiator hoses and installed radiator, overflow tank and engine filler tank. On early engines this is steel - but on my late model 2.5 this is plastic and easily fits in its standard inlet manifold location.
2. Installed new fuel pressure regulator, fuel rails and ran all the braided hoses (including connection to fuel tank and return line).
3. Finished installing seat belts and low half of fuel tanks firewall.
4. Installed (roughly lying loose) loom. Connected a few plugs to approximate location and with battery I have instrument cluster illumination and the engine cranks over (no ECU yet).
5. Still working on Engine wiring, however it is looking a little less ominous as I've deleted and removed, Tumble generator actuators, removed secondary air pump and valves. So now just the essential wiring remains and is starting to look more manageable.

All going well I will be go-karting before the end of September - hopefully next week, but I have a really busy work schedule.

[Junty]

Well sorry for lack of recent updates, but during the past month Ive had a very busy time travelling for work (Australia 4 times and Eastern Europe via Japan). Its nice to be busy working (this helps fund the 818 dream - as well as pay the bills at home), but it does limit time I have to spend on 818 build:-(
So in-between trips away, Ive managed to finish matching the wires from ECU to engine, upgrade ECU software and unlock some of the Motec ECU options:- Lambda control and variable CAM adjustment. I wasn't able to get a base MAP for my 2012 engine - however I have a 2008 start MAP that will at least get me running - ready for dyne tune.
I installed 2 x WRX seats, finished lower front firewall pedal box/side aluminium (covering radiator pipes).
Then today after only having a few hours to work on 818 - i started the engine...http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/smilies/smile.png
Very pleased with startup - need to spend a lot of time working on tune - as base MAP has very rich fuel mixture - guys at Motec in Melbourne advise that this is to avoid lean startups which tend to melt things:-(
Other small achievements - (i'm self teaching myself to weld) managed to weld a muffler (tri-flow 2.5inch) in-between the FFR provided (turbo to Cat adapter) (cut in half) and the tail pipe piece with O2 sensor. Nice throaty sound without being frustrating for none-car enthusiastic neighbours.
Installed the FFR shifter - pressed this apart and rotated the bend by 90 degrees (this modified from bend towards LHD (Driver) to a slight bend backwards, but perpendicular to the front of car.
After starting car, it took 5-6 bleeds of the cooling system to get the air and bubbles out - confident that I'm 95% there now. I should have spent more time reading the solutions I know others have already posted on this process...
Also during this part of the build Ive installed the DBW throttle - this required a lot of modification for RHD. The brake an clutch need to be removed and bend both these across to the left - allowing room for the accelerator. There is also no support to attach the DBW accelerator pedal - it flexes on the aluminium firewall. So I'll manufacture some support to strengthen the pedal next week.
When installing the shifter - Ive used all the same FFR parts - but I drilled the centre adapter using a stepped drill - this allowed it to push down well past the gear box shift rod where it increases in diameter. Also I mounted the side bracket back by 1/2 inch (re-drilled mounting holes) then finally a small bend in side bracket and both cables line up beauty and I'm sure that the shifter will well clear the rear fibreglass once fitted :-):cool:
Ive tried to ad startup video - but not sure how to yet?

[Junty]

Still can't add the video - I might post a link to youtube?
This weekend I started to tune the engine. Motec software is beautiful and easy to use, I just wanted to get it running reasonably smooth with stable idle, so amended the fuel mixture a little, and set idle RPM, reduced (detuned boost to a conservative 10 PSI), fixed a couple of small vacuum lines on the inlet manifold (items removed from engine) - these leaks once fixed resulted in a nice sounding engine :-)
Sunday evening NZT - I'm officially go carting - still need to wrap engine loom and tie cables up, mount ECU - next week when back from work I'm heading to dyno...
Almost forgot - because I have a 2012 engine (these have a large nearly square top mount intercooler. Although I will eventually run an Air/Water unit - the stock sits in a nice location and I purchased a 10" cooling fan which mounts well on top - this might help with a good flow of coolish air. Once tuned an body is on I'll evaluate benefit of AWIC...

[Junty]

As mentioned in my last post, I'm temporarily using the stock top mount intercooler from my late model engine. Primarily due to difficulties easily connecting a tube/pipe to my VF52 turbo - I decided to start the engine and trial this standard intercooler before investing in the AWIC that I expect to eventually use.
These late model Top Mount units however are a really nice size (almost square) and therefore easily accept a slim 10" radiator fan. I suspect that once fibreglass is fitted and some aluminium is constructed to duct coolish air to this fan - we may achieve as good results as AWIC options? Yet to be convinced either way - I'll let you all know about ambient versus post intercooler temperatures once we get to a dyno...

[Junty]

Well today I managed to redesign and alter the standard FFR 818 fitment of the radiator tubes - along each side of the car. I decided a few months back that the thick and thin rubber spacers that are needed to increase the diameter of the aluminium side pipes was likely to jeopardise the cooling system pressure - especially if one didn't hold as well as it should?
So today for a mere US$18.50 I purchased a 2.5m length of 1 3/4 inch aluminium tube. I cut this down to match the lengths of the FFR supplied tube and then used a small adjustable crox tool to roll a bead, same as FFR ones to more securely hold the rubber radiator hoses.
Below are some pictures, this certainly makes so much sense to me - so much so that for the first time in this build I question why FFR didn't make this system better? Please FFR increase the diameter of the aluminium tubes to 1 3/4 inch and do away with rubber spacers for future cars...

[STiPWRD]

I cut this down to match the lengths of the FFR supplied tube and then used a small adjustable crox tool to roll a bead, same as FFR ones to more securely hold the rubber radiator hoses.
Mind sharing a picture of your crox tool and how much it cost? I think you ended up with a very nice bead on that pipe. I did a quick search for bead rolling tools and they seem to be going for about $180 on ebay. This would also be useful on modified intercooler piping.

[MrDude_1]

I am interested in this "Crox Tool" and how it works.. However it seems to be a New Zealand only thing. Is there another name it goes by? How does it work? That bead looks really nice.

edit: lol STiPWRD beat me to it while I was looking up "crox tool" online...

[Wayne Presley]

Vibrant makes a nice bead roller #2990, I can get them for $290. I have one myself for doing the IC and other tubing. Will do down to 3/4" pipe.

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/images/2990_WEBL.jpg

[Junty]

Thanks guys, fortunately I have a friend who is a plumber gas fitter. I borrowed one that he had in his tool box unused for maybe the last 10 years. It looks much the same as Wayne's image above - but primarily made of brass (maybe 20-40 years) old. These are mainly used for copper pipe before PVC a was so prevalent...

[Junty]

This weekend I finished properly plumbing the cooling system, then faced the same difficulties many have already experienced (bleeding air from the cooling system). The process has been very frustrating, I believe that I've adequately completed the process by parking the car on a small incline and jacking the front up. However, with so many things I've just studied other threads relating to air/cooling and I'll now modify the cooling line as Wayne (VCP) recommends with a bleed nipple added. I'm confident that this will make repeating this process a whole lot less frustrating and easier, I should have studied these threads sooner, it was so long ago that I looked at cooling. Now with engine running, sounding good, I just had to try another couple of go-kart rides around the block - I cannot wait to get this finished now, the car responds so well, is agile and very rapid... More than I expected.
So good news is that I'm well on track to have car registered and road going by NZ summer, however we have just entered a very busy motor-sport season in NZ. Targa starts next weekend, followed by north island rally series, and next month Speedway starts. So unfortunately all workshops with Dyno machines and Motec experience are fully booked until middle/end of November. I was hoping to co-ordinate a tune of the car before body is fitted, but alas this may now need to be done with body on.
Aside from this - driving this is just so much fun, i had to start fitting the body, i simply wanted a chassis to start looking like a daily driver -http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/smilies/smile.png
Very happy with progress, I just want to finish it, drive it, and have fun...348203482134822
Not nearly as much fun as driving it - but I also finished wiring and installing all the ABS system. Haven't tried properly to test it yet - but using all the original donor system (just changing the wheel location from OEM distribution) it all appears to work.

[Hendow]

Hi Justin and G'day from the 'West Island'!

I figured, what better place for my first post than to introduce myself to you on your build log, as it seems we are both on the same page with our 818's... How many other RHD 818S's are out there featuring a late model WRX driveline??!!

Soo many questions, where do I start?!

I purchased a 'virtually complete' well known 818S recently, which had been fitted with a stock 2012 WRX engine, loom, dash and ecu, and like you I have embarked on the process to road register the car. It is running, and on the road under permits, however I am hitting a few roadblocks with its development, so I'm keen to get your thoughts and learn from your experiences.

I've just had a dyno check carried out which indicates the motor is leaning out badly under boost, most likely due to the modded CAI setup. This is compounded by the inability to get the OBD2 port talking to the ECU, making a retune impossible... Been advised to swap the factory ecu for a Motec M800 PnP ecu to get around this problem (AU$5k...!)

Which of course opens another can of worms... Dash display, wheel speed sensors, etc etc...!!
Did you fit the late model speed sensors/spindles? Similarly dash, and did you get the speedo to work?
I've just fitted a 9in slim thermos an to the back of my I/c but am unable to determine its effectiveness due to the lack of suitable temp sensor downstream of the I/c... Certainly seems to pump through a lot more air...

Like you, I'm leaning towards an AWIC's, and will be placing an order with Wayne (VCP) shortly, as I see this as my only real option given the warm climate here.

Anyway, if I can be of any assistance (ie comparing our setups) or chasing wiring colours(!) let me know!

Oh, and fantastic job on your build so far!

Cheers,

Wayne

[freds]

My ECU was Access port "locked" and I wanted to have open source access and use RomRaider and ECU Flash. Check my build thread post # 21

A local tuner "unlocked it using a "trick" of loading another Cobb tune (I don't know the details..I'm dumb) and now I have free access. I had also imagined that I would have to replace the ECU and was happy to save that money.

fred

[Junty]

Ok all, sorry for slow updates. I have been really busy working - lots of travel and limited 818 time.
Over the past fortnight between work travel, I managed to fit some new lower arm rear bushes. I used some caster adjustment units from PowerFlex, these offset bushes push the rear of the aluminium lower arm outward (when installed correctly). This increases the clearance for the front wheels. In addition I added new tie rod ends, steering rack boots - tightened all the suspension components and took the go-cart in for a full wheel alignment.
end of alignment:- Front:- caster 4.0 degrees each side, camber -0.6 degrees both sides, toe 0.6mm both sides, Rear:- camber -0.3 degrees, toe 2.2mm both sides. 35612For the alignment tire pressure was set at 32PSI, and ride height was set at 4 3/4 inch in front and 4 5/8 inch in rear. The small increase in height over the standard 4 1/2 inch is to allow for body, windscreen and extra's yet to be added (more to yet be added in front compared with rear).
I also unlocked lambda sensing within the Motec M800 ECU, fitted a Bosch wide band O2 sensor to the rear of the muffler. The car still has a very rough base tune in the ECU (factory standard settings) no cam control, no IGN advance or fuel enrichment - So its books into a Dyno tune shop next week whilst Im working in Italy.
Upon completion, I'll tidy the wiring up, add some underlay and carpet, install seats and interior properly and start on complete body fitment.
During the tune next week, I'm adding a air temp sensor close to the throttle body (after intercooler). We will add a parameter to the Motec ECU which can/will adjust the fuel and boost as the temperature increases with hot conditions.
35613
Finally I played by trial fitting some body (temporarily).

[Junty]

Today I miss my 818. Im preparing for my week away working in Italy, and keep going to the shed to tinker with something - and the place is empty. Well no 818 chassis there... I dropped the vehicle in for tuning, so all I have left to tinker with this body panels and trim. So attached below are some pictures of the trim panels cutout, painted/prepped - then aluminium trims glued in place. I have decided for the first few months to leave car as is, gel coat white. Eventually I intend upon wrap or paint, but we are into our NZ summer, and I will run out of time to drive the car this season if I spend time finishing the paint now. So using a cheap online carbon fibre film, I've wrapped the aluminium trim and painted the back, along with the mesh satin black. I'm actually pleasantly surprised with the look :-) Nice contrast between black, white and CF (2 different colours). I might reconsider my final colour now? Sorry guys in Australasia we have a U in colour.

[metalmaker12]

Ok all, sorry for slow updates. I have been really busy working - lots of travel and limited 818 time.
Over the past fortnight between work travel, I managed to fit some new lower arm rear bushes. I used some caster adjustment units from PowerFlex, these offset bushes push the rear of the aluminium lower arm outward (when installed correctly). This increases the clearance for the front wheels. In addition I added new tie rod ends, steering rack boots - tightened all the suspension components and took the go-cart in for a full wheel alignment.
end of alignment:- Front:- caster 4.0 degrees each side, camber -0.6 degrees both sides, toe 0.6mm both sides, Rear:- camber -0.3 degrees, toe 2.2mm both sides. 35612For the alignment tire pressure was set at 32PSI, and ride height was set at 4 3/4 inch in front and 4 5/8 inch in rear. The small increase in height over the standard 4 1/2 inch is to allow for body, windscreen and extra's yet to be added (more to yet be added in front compared with rear).
I also unlocked lambda sensing within the Motec M800 ECU, fitted a Bosch wide band O2 sensor to the rear of the muffler. The car still has a very rough base tune in the ECU (factory standard settings) no cam control, no IGN advance or fuel enrichment - So its books into a Dyno tune shop next week whilst Im working in Italy.
Upon completion, I'll tidy the wiring up, add some underlay and carpet, install seats and interior properly and start on complete body fitment.
During the tune next week, I'm adding a air temp sensor close to the throttle body (after intercooler). We will add a parameter to the Motec ECU which can/will adjust the fuel and boost as the temperature increases with hot conditions.
35613
Finally I played by trial fitting some body (temporarily).

The tire pressure for driving should be much lower, just throwing it out there if you have not heard or known. 19-20psi front and 21-24psi rear

[Boog]

The tire pressure for driving should be much lower, just throwing it out there if you have not heard or known. 19-20psi front and 21-24psi rear

That PSI seems very low. Is it because the car weighs so little?
Is it specified somewhere by FFR? Or based on some pyrometer readings after driving for a while??

[Junty]

Thanks,
The guys that setup the suspension geometry are pure race car enthusiasts - they certainly know what they are doing. I did question the pressure they used, and they replied that higher pressures are more even and consistent for side wall height in the tyre. This enables/helps them to get all four corners even..
Certainly after the alignment and next weeks tune, we will decrease the pressure a little - 19-20 however seams lower than the manufacturer (tyre) recommends? I would be a little concerned at the tyres moving side to side on the rims. I guess trial and error will determine best for grip and stability?

[JeromeS13]

With my experience with tire pressures in this car (on street tires at the track), I've found that 16 psi front and 20 psi in the rear (hot) is about right. This is with my Federal 595 RS-R in 235/40/17 and 265/35/18.

[Junty]

Hey crew, Ive just spent a week away working in Italy. Just prior to departure I delivered my car to a local tuning shop whom specialise in Motec ECU. I called the shop today from Munich (homeward bound) and they advised that following a couple of days comprehensive setup on Dyno - setting up, fuel pressure, boost, CAM control, ignition and mixtures they are happy with the very soft tune I requested. 13-16 PSI 247-260Kw at RW. Cold start, idle and deceleration all good:-) I haven't seen finished numbers yet, but 247 @ 13PSI (331RWHP) for complete street car is nice. This is a very soft tune for Motec and JDM 2.5 subaru. It is more than I wanted prior to registration and compliance. Following compliance I will change turbo add AWIC and retune (aiming for 320Kw). Can't wait to get home and go-kart again!

[metalmaker12]

With my experience with tire pressures in this car (on street tires at the track), I've found that 16 psi front and 20 psi in the rear (hot) is about right. This is with my Federal 595 RS-R in 235/40/17 and 265/35/18.

I concur basically the same to the psi

[Harley818]

Hi Junty, nice build so far.
I like your choice for wheels and tires.....just the ones I'm looking at.

What size tires did you end up going with?
and are those the XXR 530's?

[Junty]

Hi Harley, nice to be documenting the first RHD 818. I have to thank Wayne from VCP for these wheels, he is an agent for XXR. So these are 18's rear and 17's front but they are the 527 design. Toyo R888 tyres 215/45/17 front and 255/35/18 rear. A long while ago there was a lot of discussion and a thread specific to 818 wheels and tyres. The 45 profile on the front is a little big - but with the castor adjusting rear lower arm bush there is just enough room with out everything rubbing. I needed the 45 as this closely matches the rear circumference and I am using the WRX ABS system. My only criticism of the XXR wheel is the 10 hole multi fit stud pattern, I would ideally like just the 5 x 100.

[Junty]

Hey team, Just a few recent updates. Since getting car back from alignment and tuning(dyno). Ive start the very daunting process of body and panel assembly. I say daunting - my general assumption, mechanical and electrical (including suspension) is my forte and is scientific. A + B = C. However the body is certainly not my forte and I liken it to more of an art. A bit here moves everything... Why does a trim here result in ??? over there...
So I started this process by spending lots of time reading others success and posting first. My limited experience has been improved significantly during the past 2-3 weeks sitting in airport lounges (working) drinking a cold beer and studying the forum. Following this i fitted the 2 sides, added aftermarket Suzuki GXR1000 side mirrors, 80% fitted and removed and then refitting maybe 5 times the doors, tail lights, front fenders and front bumper. I had a glass guy help with windscreen installation. And all of a sudden (progress results here seem quick) its looking more finished, or more like an 818 rather than go-cart.

[Junty]

I should reiterate, A + B = C, but thrashing a musical instrument does not always equal music!

[Junty]

I went back and forth on how to handle High Stop Light options and eventually settled on a Hella LED clear system - mounted centrally as high as practical. In NZ we are required to have a high stop light - no less than 850mm from ground. Fortunately for me this appears to just suffice without the need to install a spoiler mounted one.

[wleehendrick]

eventually settled on a Hella LED clear system - mounted centrally as high as practical. In NZ we are required to have a high stop light - no less than 850mm from ground. Fortunately for me this appears to just suffice without the need to install a spoiler mounted one.

Looks good! (since you're required to have one)

[Junty]

Further to the specific documented Brake and Suspension thread about the RHD pedal box variants. Ive now discovered that any of the aluminium cut and folded by FFR is bent the wrong way for RHD vehicles. Specifically the centre console in aluminium - The larger piece that is supposed to angle into the passenger side - angles into the drivers clutch pedal area on a RHD car. For any future RHD kit builders - please ensure FFR is either specifically folding these pieces for the RHD configuration - or order these parts flat pack (unfolded). It is just slightly disappointing that these things were not configured correctly - especially as we do pay a premium for RHD kits!
I first took the folded pieces to a local aluminium fabricator - hoping that they could roll them flat and fold them back the alternative way - however the alluvium as I suspected cracked along the folds, so I had to manufacture new pieces and fold them the correct way. Attached is the new RHD console - with the FFR one cracked and flat on the floor.
36213

[Quiny]

I really like the center brake light. Where did you get it?

[Junty]

Purchased from a local Hella agent.

LED Centre High Mount Stop Lamp - Clear Lens 12V
PART NO: 5243-CLEAR

Hella has a local NZ based manufacturing facility. Not sure if this is local or international part - search eBay for the part number. It is designed and specified for mounting into boot lid spoilers.

[Mechie3]

I think most of my stuff said 6061 on the panels. It doesn't like to bend sharp angles or bend more than once. They can get away with it since it's such thin material and they only bend once. 5052 is much more pliable.

[Junty]

Happy 2015 to all. Sorry for slow build progress, although we are enjoying our beautiful warm summer (perfect for 818 building), Ive been enjoying family summer holiday at the beach. I still don't have wife approval for any of my 818 - so when she wants to spend family time at the beach I don't have any room for argument. So on Tuesday I finally managed to sneak home (100miles) on the understanding that I had some real work to do... However I've also managed to spend the last 36hours in-between to install the dash, centre console, door panels and manufacture a wiper assembly which is required for NZ compliance. Ive also installed the FFR K-Tuned shifter - the inside is starting to look really nice. The dash, console and shifter have started to make it all feel like a real car!

[Junty]

Well today I re-examined the whole process of headlamp installation. Earlier this week I spent a lot of time trimming the buckets (plastic) and getting the lamps to sit within them correctly. Then ensuring that the buckets are sitting correctly within the front bumper assembly - however once this is moved to the chassis and the fenders are attached everything moves :mad::confused:
So - this afternoon my 'kiwi ingenuity' got to work. First I installed the buckets (now already trimmed) into the bumper assembly on the ground. There is a little force required to ensure that the front edge remains onto of the bumper - so 100 mile an hour tape was used to hold this together. I then flipped the assembly upside down and applied resin and mesh (fibreglass) to firmly secure the buckets from beneath to the bumper.
Thus far (prior) - every time I assemble the headlamps and front sections together - the tension releases at the edge of the bumper with the buckets - they end up underneath the front edge with a huge 1/4 gaps outside the edge of the lamps:mad:
I trust and hope that when I attempt re-installation next week, my glassing the inside will provide sufficient strength to the system to allow a good even look to the whole front? I'll post pictures once I know it works:)

[Junty]

Well, following my last post, I successfully glassed (adhered) the outside edge of my plastic headlamp buckets to the front bumper. Following the instructions - the front lip is just over the bumper edge!
Once they were set and secured by glassing the structure from behind, I reinstalled the front bumper assembly and started to test fit the headlamps. It is certainly much easier now - as my buckets are secure :o:)
I then got quite aggressive with the saw - drawing a line in the bottom of the bucket (behind the rear of the headlamp). Then another right across the front (almost at the top of the groove) where the front edge of the headlamp sits. After making these marks I cut about 1/2 the bucket out.
My lamps now sit secure along the front edge - tucked well down and the side and top mounts hold everything secure. I'll post disassembled pictures in a few weeks - once car is back from compliance.
Attached are a few images of the front fully assembled. I love every aspect of this FFR kit, the finish certainly requires a lot of work to make is look great - because this is beyond my ability, I'm committed to a specialised panel shop tweaking and tightening all the gaps up and then painting the finished car.
Initial discussion with the compliance engineer has detailed that I'll need to install folding sun visors (I've ordered some early Miata MX5 ones from Ebay. Although I installed a windscreen wiper - I also need a washer - fortunately my VCP loom has clearly labeled wires for this and so Ive ordered a cheap washer motor with hanging fluid bag which I'll secure to the front somewhere..
Finally, I need to adhere the supplied rear reflectors, aesthetically I was hoping to not require these - but they do need to be added for NZ compliance.
Some will note from the images - Ive used Quick-latch mini's to secure my hood - I'm awaiting my next shipment to use these for the engine covers also - however the rear will be very temporary - as I desperately want that new hard top. Like many Ive joined the wait, and I'll contend with the box and freight sometime in the middle of the year :confused:
Finally - just prior to the tow truck arriving for transit to compliance centre, I went for another quick blast around the block:):D I tested the hard/heavy braking from about 50m/h and was very pleased to get front left wheel to just start locking. I have no bias installed, and I have full ABS (not powered yet). This confirms discussions I've had in the braking forum, we need bigger rear brakes! Once approved and registered, I'll further investigate installing the same front 4 pot WRX callipers with 300mm Brembo size rear disks - essentially making the front and rear even and equal braking - same as other mid/rear engined sports cars...

[Junty]

Well - my car has been at the compliance centre now for almost 2 months. It shouldn't take this long - but the engineers have been busy and finally after 2 months my 818 is at the front of their list and ready for compliance next week. I wish I could have kept the car at home whilst waiting, as I could have finished and titivated with lots of work especially getting the body tight and even gaps. Ive arrange to take the completed car to a fibreglass specialist upon completion of the compliance. They will pull and push all the panels, and sand edges down to make the gaps even. As Ive previously said, I'm happy and confident to work on mechanical and electrical - body work is an art and beyond my skills.
The only significant issue for compliance is the seatbelt anchorage points. The small top tabs are too small for New Zealand compliance, these are subject to significant stress when the belt is loaded, so for NZ we need to cut these off, and weld triangular shape steel into the corner of the roll bar and 2inch steel frame. I'll arrange for a certified welder to weld similar plates to the inner edge of the lower from (supported by the cross frames for seats). These also need to be welded on more than one side/edge. During this process I'm going to arrange to have 7/16 fine nuts welded to the back of each tab - making for easier installation of seatbelt anchor bolts. Upon completion I'll get some pictures - I know lots of people have discussed the seatbelt anchors.
All going really well, I'll be registered, certified and have plates on before the end of March, great news as 1st April is autumn in NZ and summer driving season is coming to an end (first day of rain since Christmas as Im writing this).

[Mitch Wright]

Looks great.

[Junty]

New Zealand Compliance...
I shouldn't have presumed that this would be so easy. I have a detailed list of fixes and changes required. Most of the list consists of small mistakes or errors directly attributed to my build skill or lack of. Most are related to suspension bolts that are too short. In NZ any nut/bolt with nylock locking heads will require two full threads exposed beyond the nylock ring. So its a relatively simple process of replacing about 1 dozen bolts for longer ones - ensuring all have the required thread exposed.
I've had to add seatbelt anchors 3 each side - enabling the seatbelt from the donor to comply. Once again in NZ we require anchors welded on atlas 2 edges and must have a specific surface area.
The final tow issues are the most significant and a little more difficult to resolve. 1. I had to change the factory engine and transmission mounts to ones that are still going to offer support and hold the engine in the event the rubber separates. I opted for Cusco mount kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cusco-Engine-Transmission-Mount-2002-2005-Subaru-WRX-STI-15-STI-660-911-SET-/181710638134?hash=item2a4ecc4c36&vxp=mtr I suspect that these will also reduce engine movement changing gears and when on/off the throttle - they are very stiff.
Finally I'm resolving a bumpsteer issue with the front suspension. My vehicle when setup to FFR specifications has between 15-20 degrees toe when the suspension is at full droop. I appreciate that at droop there is no weight on the wheels, so it is really a dilemma that some people don't believe will cause any safety concern or issue, but unfortunately for me, Compliance within NZ specifies that bumpsteer must be below 5 degrees. So Ive moved the front shock to the R (upper mount) position and pre-loaded the springs to maintain close to 4inch front ground clearance, and I just barely scrape through with 32mm of suspension travel. Ive also added Whiteline tired ends - which similar to the Baer ones lower the rack ends and thus reduce the bumpsteer also. So fingers crossed - next week when I'm back from a quick visit to USA (FFR included) I'll take the 818S RHD back for a final check.

[Junty]

Nearly there... All the boxes are ticked, i's dotted and t's crossed. I'm now waiting upon Low Volume Vehicle Transport Authority (LVVTA) to approve of all the paperwork, images and issue a certificate of compliance. Then I can organise a Warrant Of Fitness (WOF) and register the car. Finger's crossed this will happen within the next week? I depart for Boston MA again next week, and I would love to again visit FFR with images of a completed, certified and registered car in NZ.

[Mitch Wright]

The car looks great, look forward to seeing it painted.

[DodgyTim]

Brakes 2008 WRX 4 pot front 2 pot rear (eventually adding 4 pot to rear)

Hey Junty, did you go forward with 4 pot calipers on the rear ?
I have been given a second set of 4 pots and I'm looking at putting the DBA 42657 (316mm) rotors on the rear as a cheap brake upgrade
Thoughts?

[Junty]

Hi Tim,
I have not made any changes yet.... Still waiting for full and final compliance. However I have had a few test drives, and I definitely want more/better brakes. Logic still entices me to replace rear rotor with front 4 pot and the 316mm rotor's - but testing and mile on the road will give a much better idea of if it is really required? My rotors, pads (everything) is brand new - need to bed everything in before making changes.
ABS - is fully functioning and working...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Junty, did you go forward with 4 pot calipers on the rear ?
I have been given a second set of 4 pots and I'm looking at putting the DBA 42657 (316mm) rotors on the rear as a cheap brake upgrade
Thoughts?

Tim
When you go to 4 pots in the rear, are you gaining any braking capability?
The effective cylinder diameter is the important number in the attached chart.
What are the diameter of the of the pots in the calipers you are changing to?
Bob

42584

[DodgyTim]

Thanks Junty, I'll start having a look at this on the weekend and let you know if it looks like working.
Bob, once I get some of the preliminary measurements/dimensions sorted out I'll post some questions in the brake thread, so we don't hijack Junty's build thread:D

[Flamshackle]

Great work Junty! cant wait to hear this thing fire up :-)

Can you please post some pics and detail about your single wiper system?

Looks much better than the FFR chop shop option IMO

[Hendow]

Hi Junty,

Can I take a moment to pick your brains...?!

I understand you have managed to get the ABS system working in your 818.

What did you do for front and rear Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS's)?
Did you use the 2012 donor VDC (ABS) module?
Does your VDC module feed into the MOTEC ECU?
How did you get a rear WSS feed into the VDC/ECU?

I have the 2012 VDC module installed which is required to feed into the ECU and speedo etc, however in order to get this working, I had to retrofit 2012 spindles to the front with the later (blade type) WSS's. These (front) WSS's then had to be plugged into the rear wheel ports on the VDC module, to get the speedo etc to work... My rear spindles currently have no WSS's installed as the 2012 rear spindles are quite different to the GD chassis.

My understanding is the GD WSS's are not compatible with the later 2012 VDC module, so I cannot figure out how to get an actual rear wheel speed signal to feed into the VDC/ECU.

This has manifested itself as a problem on the dyno, whereby the ECU (Ecutek) is hitting some sort of fuel/boost/ignition cut under heavy load at about 4500rpm, I suspect because it is sensing the engine to be cranking along under boost, yet the rear wheels do not appear to be moving... (due to the WSS's being on the front, stationary, wheels). On the road I cannot replicate the cut, only on the dyno, which points to the WSS's being the cause. Until my tuner can resolve this cut, I am unable to properly tune the engine/ECU.

Information is quite limited out there on what speed inputs are fed into the stock ECU, and for what functions, so I am keen to explore your findings, given we have similar setups.

Any plans to visit the 'West Island'? If so, come over and take the Green Machine for a spin!

Cheers,

43715

[Flamshackle]

Hi Junty,

Can I take a moment to pick your brains...?!

I understand you have managed to get the ABS system working in your 818.

What did you do for front and rear Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS's)?
Did you use the 2012 donor VDC (ABS) module?
Does your VDC module feed into the MOTEC ECU?
How did you get a rear WSS feed into the VDC/ECU?

I have the 2012 VDC module installed which is required to feed into the ECU and speedo etc, however in order to get this working, I had to retrofit 2012 spindles to the front with the later (blade type) WSS's. These (front) WSS's then had to be plugged into the rear wheel ports on the VDC module, to get the speedo etc to work... My rear spindles currently have no WSS's installed as the 2012 rear spindles are quite different to the GD chassis.

My understanding is the GD WSS's are not compatible with the later 2012 VDC module, so I cannot figure out how to get an actual rear wheel speed signal to feed into the VDC/ECU.

This has manifested itself as a problem on the dyno, whereby the ECU (Ecutek) is hitting some sort of fuel/boost/ignition cut under heavy load at about 4500rpm, I suspect because it is sensing the engine to be cranking along under boost, yet the rear wheels do not appear to be moving... (due to the WSS's being on the front, stationary, wheels). On the road I cannot replicate the cut, only on the dyno, which points to the WSS's being the cause. Until my tuner can resolve this cut, I am unable to properly tune the engine/ECU.

Information is quite limited out there on what speed inputs are fed into the stock ECU, and for what functions, so I am keen to explore your findings, given we have similar setups.

Any plans to visit the 'West Island'? If so, come over and take the Green Machine for a spin!

Cheers,

43715

Such a cool pic! Great questions, I watch with great interest

[Junty]

I would love to help, but Im sorry to say that although we have same engines - thats about as far as it goes. I started with a 2004 RX NA impreza as my original donor. So front and rear Hubs, 5 speed gear box, rack, steering column, dash, ABS unit and wheel sensors are all from a much earlier car. The huge benefit for ABS - is these earlier systems are 100% independent of engine ECU. I have now also wired my ABS sensors into the MOTEC M800 - I soon want to upgrade to another ECU option which includes traction control...

[Hendow]

Ahh, bugga!

Oh well, thanks anyway.

She's back to the tuner again tomorrow, so hopefully it will either be tuned fully, or I can see a MOTEC M800 in my future...

I believe the M800 has traction control? Is that via an optional module?

[Flamshackle]

I would love to help, but Im sorry to say that although we have same engines - thats about as far as it goes. I started with a 2004 RX NA impreza as my original donor. So front and rear Hubs, 5 speed gear box, rack, steering column, dash, ABS unit and wheel sensors are all from a much earlier car. The huge benefit for ABS - is these earlier systems are 100% independent of engine ECU. I have now also wired my ABS sensors into the MOTEC M800 - I soon want to upgrade to another ECU option which includes traction control...

Keep me posted Justin, I am keen to run traction control also. What are you looking at?

[Junty]

Hey guys, I thought originally looking at the specifications that buying a Motec M800 would cover for everything really easy off the shelf. However everything does require an optional (costly) upgrade. Thus far I've had to add 'Drive By Wire' 'Wideband Lambda' and 'Cam Control' as well as buy the optional UTC cables...
Motec is awesome but costly. The last add-on that I'm looking at is advanced features as a package. This includes the options... traction control, flat shifts and antilag. This is a mere Au$535 - so final package is the most cost reasonable so far!

[Junty]

Hey guys - RHD update... I had a very unfortunate issue with my 818... broken rings on cylinder 4! Damn!
So removed engine - relatively easy process after removing under tray and rear bumper, sent engine away for inspection. Ended up replacing all engine bearings (aluminium had scored crank a little), new O/S CP Pistons, rods, full engine clean and gasket set. Then decided to install a Mishimoto oil cooler (with added fans) - this was less expensive than replacing new OEM oil cooler, which likely had gritty deposits inside it? Just last week I completed the assembly and started the car. Whilst apart I opted for some new 1000cc injectors - they standard WRX ones were previously running at 85-90% duty cycle - so increasing the size will allow for more boost and bigger turbo if ever it is needed.
My 818 was tuned on the dyno today, and I'm very pleased with the 239Kw power @ 12-13PSI on standard VF52 turbo. Attached is the graph.
Final break down of engine...
2012 WRX 2.5L
o/s CP forged pistons
ARP heavy-duty bolts and head studs
Forged rods (Cosworth)
Cheap ex china extractors - these don't hang too low.
Standard WRX VF52 turbo
Cusco Engine mounts
New 2 1/2 inch exhaust no CAT single straight through resonator
MOTEC M800 ECU with cam control, wideband O2, DBW
Mishimotor oil cooler
Mishimoto thermostat (lower opening temp)
Mishimoto radiator
Very happy with everything - and very nice power curve (turbo does run out at 6500) but nearly 650NM torque from 3000 RMP

[Junty]

Hey all - as advised in previous thread, retuned following engine rebuild and strengthen. 239Kw at 12-13 PSI boost and very near 650NM from 3000 rpm.
I hijacked another thread about ambient engine bay temperatures and fitting a trunk kit. I've now added a cheap set of extractors, wrapped them very well, wrapped the new up-pipe and wrapped the entire exhaust including resonator. Added a turbo blanket, and cut a duct in centre of engine cover (with shroud) over intercooler. Engine bay temperatures are now low and manageable, the Air to Air intercooler (2012 WRX) with 10inch fan is working very well.
I cannot stress that wrapping the hot parts of the engine and creating ducts that work changes everything in the 818.47023

[Wayne Presley]

For those metric challenged, thats 320 HP and 480 TQ.

[Flamshackle]

Hey all - as advised in previous thread, retuned following engine rebuild and strengthen. 239Kw at 12-13 PSI boost and very near 650NM from 3000 rpm.
I hijacked another thread about ambient engine bay temperatures and fitting a trunk kit. I've now added a cheap set of extractors, wrapped them very well, wrapped the new up-pipe and wrapped the entire exhaust including resonator. Added a turbo blanket, and cut a duct in centre of engine cover (with shroud) over intercooler. Engine bay temperatures are now low and manageable, the Air to Air intercooler (2012 WRX) with 10inch fan is working very well.
I cannot stress that wrapping the hot parts of the engine and creating ducts that work changes everything in the 818.47023

Great power curve and at relatively low boost levels. Well done Justin :-)

[longislandwrx]

show us pictures of your ducting?

[Junty]

47187471864718547188Hey crew,
Rather than duct - I opted to open the engine cover. Im happy and confident to undertake mechanical work and electrical - however body and cosmetically I don't have any expertise or knowledge - so at some time I will pay for an expert to tidy the panels and perhaps fabricate a duct/scoop to encourage more air... At this time however this works and for the purpose of fully evaluating the concept, Im very happy with the end results. Please note - I am using a 2012 WRX 2.5L engine with VF52 standard turbo, these late model engines don't have the Y connector under the intercooler and they do have an almost square standard intercooler.

[metalmaker12]

Are you planning on measuring intake temps