E-brake cables

[ponyboy1965]

I've got a 87-93 solid axel 3-link rear end with disc brakes and having trouble finding the correct e-brake cables As far as fitment issues and trying to use the brackets they have installed on the car. I've been to my local autozone and ordered what FFR told we was right and didn't work... They first guy I talked to told me I needed 93 cobra cables...WRONG. So I called them back and next guy told me 87-93 5.0 cables would work....WRONG. Now i am lost, any help or guidance would be awesome!!!

[Todd Buttrick]

I guess It really depends on the disc brakes you have. Which are they and why won't the ones you bought work?

[Carlos C]

The manual states that your e-brake cables should be matched to your rear brakes. Is it a donor build? Is the problem trying to fit the cables to the brakes or the welded brackets on the frame? What e-brake handle are you using, donor, FFR-supplied, or custom? Are you locating your e-brake handle on a different spot than what the manual states?

If it is a donor build, then you should be using the rear brakes, cables, and handle that came out of the Mustang, as a complete system. Give us some more info, so we can help you troubleshoot.

Carlos

[ponyboy1965]

I have the complete kit an using the FFR supplied handle and location. I bought a rebuilt rear end from a 87-93 mustang from MPS auto salvage

[ponyboy1965]

The problem is the two times I've called FFR and went and bought have been either to long to short or the incorrect housings

[wallace18]

Kraftee used Lokar cables on his 33 build with good results. You could PM him.

[edwardb]

Went through some cable drama with my Mk3 build. I can share what worked. 87-93 handle in the stock FFR location. Solid rear axle with 11.65 inch Cobra disks with the calipers on the leading edge. Sounds similar to your setup. I found 95 Mustang cables worked. They are 66.5 inch housing, 70 inches overall. You will also need a standard Ford equalizer cable E7ZZ-2A603-A. I set up as follows: Opened up the rear cable brackets so the cables would pass through them and added some grommets. Then clipped into the front brackets. The cable goes above the 4 inch tubes and loops around just right to pick up the rear calipers. Neat and clean and still working well three years later. Just went for a nice cruise today. HTH

[ponyboy1965]

Yea I may have to go route... I met up with a guy that has built one close to me yesterday and he had a 95 donor car but didn't really like the way he routed it or set it up. Your way sounds much better and clean! Thanks for the help!

[Carlos C]

Yes, unfortunately, if you don't get the cables with the rear end, and the brakes are not stock, it's hit or miss. Follow the advise above, and you should be able to match the correct cables to the rear brakes/rear end.

Carlos

[ponyboy1965]

I guess I'm am going to have to go to ford to get the equalizer cable no one in town had one... Still don't quite understand how it connects to the bottom of the e-brake assembly seems like it would be at an awaked angle. Not sure if you have any pictures but that would be awesome... Thanks for the help so far!

[edwardb]

I guess I'm am going to have to go to ford to get the equalizer cable no one in town had one... Still don't quite understand how it connects to the bottom of the e-brake assembly seems like it would be at an awaked angle. Not sure if you have any pictures but that would be awesome... Thanks for the help so far!

Yea, that equalizer is probably a dealer item or mail order from a part supplier. I've bought the equalizer for both of my builds from Mark at Breeze Automotive, a forum vendor. If he has it in stock, you'll receive it quickly. You may want to call or email. http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=181

Agreed the equalizer does exit from the e-brake handle at kind of an awkward angle. But it really is the best and maybe only option with the stock handle. I've found that you need to open the holes on the mounting bracket or e-brake handle a bit (maybe both) to find the best angle for the handle clearing the transmission, provide adequate room for the handle against the transmission tunnel side, and also to find the best angle for the equalizer. In the end, the equalizer probably will be against the 3/4 inch frame. But it still works just fine. I'm on business travel for most of the week, so not home to take any pictures. Don't have one on file of that area. If you still need something later in the week, let me know and I can snap a couple.

[ponyboy1965]

I'll see what I can come up with, this helps a lot! Thanks again for the help this damn e-brake has caused me nothing but problems!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I think I was one of the first to receive the FFR designed handle for a complete kit Mk4 I did for a customer a while back. I'm not a real fan of it and prefer the OEM Mustang style but have to say that the car's owner uses the parking brake every time he gets out of the car and it has worked flawlessly for 3+ years and over 12K miles. Basically, unless the system has been redesigned I think you're gonna' have to get busy improvising 'cause I haven't found anything that works without some degree of modification.

You'll find photos and text relating to the handle & cables beginning with post #15 of my Mk4 build thread:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/254970-indy14-build-thread.html

And a description with a few pics of how I modified the parking brake cables in this thread (post #6):

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/298117-mk4-e-brake-cables-too-long.html

Maybe some of that will help. Good luck!

Jeff

[edwardb]

Uh-oh. Thanks Jeff for mentioning the FFR supplied handle. I went back and re-read the OP's questions and see the FFR supplied handle was indeed mentioned and I missed it. Good grief. The comments I made regarding the cables and equalizer all relate to the Mustang handle not the FFR supplied handle. I have no personal experience with that part, so the recommendations I made likely don't fit your situation. Clearly the referenced Ford equalizer is not required. Jeff's pictures should help.

Note to self, read carefully before responding.

[ponyboy1965]

That is very helpful Jeff! One question tho, when it comes to crimping the ferrule back on the cable do you have to use a certain tool? Not really sure. Don't worry bout it Edwardb it's all good.

[Jeff Kleiner]

That is very helpful Jeff! One question tho, when it comes to crimping the ferrule back on the cable do you have to use a certain tool?

I've done quite a few of these and now own a crimper...

http://www.securefixdirect.com/ekmps/shops/securefixdirect/images/rigging-swaging-crimping-tool-heavy-duty-ferrule-crimper-wire-rope-2838-p.jpg

...but for the first car I built I just squeezed 'em in a big bench vice---7 years and thousands of e-brake applications later everything is still holding tight.

Jeff

[ponyboy1965]

Awesome, one more question. You say the piece of hardware that clips into the bracket on the frame just screws off I I put it into my vice? Is it really that easy seems like the lower half of it is crimped on and would be difficult to remove and even harder to replace...

[ponyboy1965]

Also where the hell do I get a replacement furrule hahaha no one in town has one??? sorry for all the questions, but I'm just getting frustrated with this e-brake!!!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Pony,
I've done several sets of cables and yes the caliper end is usually swedged or crimped lightly to the outer jacket but will twist off. After getting it off if you look at it from the end you'll see that due to being crimped it will be slightly oval or egg shaped. I simply run a drill (1/2" I think???) into it to make it round again before putting it back on the jacket. After the jacket is inserted I give it a little squeeze in the vice to secure it again.

As for the "wire rope ferrules" I get them at Lowes or my local True Value Hardware store:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_348559-258-7613_0__?productId=3462330&Ntt=ferrules&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dferrules&facetInfo=

Hope that helps!

Jeff

[ponyboy1965]

Got it all squared away today... Couldn't have done it without you! Thanks so much!

[Bren]

I think I was one of the first to receive the FFR designed handle for a complete kit Mk4 I did for a customer a while back. I'm not a real fan of it and prefer the OEM Mustang style but have to say that the car's owner uses the parking brake every time he gets out of the car and it has worked flawlessly for 3+ years and over 12K miles. Basically, unless the system has been redesigned I think you're gonna' have to get busy improvising 'cause I haven't found anything that works without some degree of modification.

You'll find photos and text relating to the handle & cables beginning with post #15 of my Mk4 build thread:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/254970-indy14-build-thread.html

And a description with a few pics of how I modified the parking brake cables in this thread (post #6):

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/298117-mk4-e-brake-cables-too-long.html

Maybe some of that will help. Good luck!

Jeff

That second post is the one where I got the idea of the end that screws on and off. But it looks like mine is crimped.

[ponyboy1965]

Mine was also crimped so I cut it off with hack saw, then drilled out the inside and pulled remains out with pliers. Cut sheathing to length and recrimp!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Different manufacturers seem to crimp or swedge them differently---I had a pair of cables one time that were crimped into a hexagon and an open end wrench grasped it perfectly to turn it off! Others are just lightly squeezed but in any case I've always been able to twist them off without a great deal of effort. Same, same though whether you twist it or cut 'em like ponyboy.

Jeff

[Eastcoastcobras]

Lokar universal e-brake cables +1