Fuel Pump Controller or Not?

[Jaime]

I'm getting a Boyd tank with an Aeromotive 340 fuel pump. Is it OK to use the Subaru fuel pump controller, or should I use some beefier wires and a separate circuit? If it matters, I do plan on upgrading the engine.

If I go separate, should I use a relay triggered by ignition, or triggered by the main relay? I've heard that the main relay only runs for a few seconds if you don't start the car - that should be good for leaving the car on but not running while testing stuff.

[metalmaker12]

If it's stand alone with its own relay, fuses it should be on 100% duty cycle.

[K3LAG]

I also did the Boyd tank and Aeromotive pump. I kept the fuel pump controller.

Larry

[metalmaker12]

I left the controller for now, but at high output levels 12v is not consistent enough to get maximum efficiency for the aeromotive 340. I will mod it to stand alone when I reinstall my motor

[Jaime]

My concern is that the Subaru fuel pump controller is wired with 14 gauge wire, so it's probably not rated for over 15 amps. In the WRX, it was on a 30A fuse shared with the oxygen sensor heaters, fuel injectors, and the ECU. According to the spec sheet, an Aeromotive 340 draws between 10 and 18 amps depending on pressure. It should draw 15 amps trying to push 43 psi on top of the 11 psi of boost the TD04 typically peaks at.

Aeromotive recommends 10 gauge, but I feel perfectly comfortable using 12 gauge for a 20 amp load. It's not just the wiring that concerns me, but the transistors in the controller. I'd like to keep it because it will keep the pump running cool when fuel flow isn't needed.

[Goldwing]

I have the Boyd tank/aeromotive pump/stock fuel controller combo as well. I'll watch this thread, but I'm not going to change anything unless a problem is identified. As far as the fuse goes, the o2 heater draw should be highest with a cold engine after startup. Allowing things to warm up properly before "getting on it," should prevent blowing the fuse. I think the heaters may click on here and there after warmed up, but likely intermittent. The wire gauge I addressed to some extent while working on the harness. Can the controller handle the extra current? We shall see I guess. I'll share any problems I find.

[Jaime]

Here's what I'm going to do:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/FuelPump_zpsef9ba4f5.jpg

I'll use 10 gauge wire for the fuel pump pigtail and the two pin connector above the controller, and I'll put a 15A fuse on the fuel pump circuit. If I blow the fuse, I'll just bypass the controller by connecting the lower part of the lower connector to the upper part of the upper connector, then replace the 15A fuse with a 25A fuse.

[Goldwing]

It'll help that we take a few feet of wire and a few connectors out of the circuit too. :)

I did change some of the wire sizes. I haven't touched the fuses.