30 Day 818R Build Progress Report

[Dave Smith]

30 days ago, we decided to try and build an 818R and make it to the Ultimate Track Car Challenge (which is held a week from today, July 18th). This is part of a pilot episode of a potential reality TV show. I thought it might be a little bit of manufactured drama, but now 25 days into the project, it is definitely a pretty significant challenge that we decided to take on. The good news is that the engineering team has done a great job in taking our 818R benchmark and going to the next level with logical changes. We will summarize the things we did to the car to make it faster when we get home from the track the week after next. Here are some photos of the project just for fun. Full details will follow as we really don’t have time to communicate most of this work.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/HOI_6463.jpg
The project is to take the set-up from the already fast 818R (blue car above) and make it even faster with an all-new 818R build.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140616-03811.jpg
We thought for a few seconds of cannibalizing the 818S for parts when the STi block we were using was found out to be junk, but the car was just too pretty and we found another mill.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140619-03815.jpg
170,000 mile Subaru donor car started the project. We bought the car from Christian at High Octane Images (sorry Christian, we didn’t want you to see your baby gutted).

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140624-03858.jpg
The new car chassis and body was rolled into R&D.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140624-03859.jpg
Parts from the demo rolling chassis were used.


https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140624-03861.jpg

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140630-03896.jpg
Jesper installs Wilwoods smaller (and lighter) disc brake kit.

[Dave Smith]

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140701-03898.jpg

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140703-03920.jpg
The STi block was torn down and upgraded. Turbos were ordered, the transmission was sent out to be upgraded.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140708-03999.jpg
We decided to try a red gel-coated body because we didn’t have time to paint the car and we are considering offering different color gel-coats.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140708-04001.jpg
Body fitment was actually pretty fast. We are using a white deck and white hood to replicate the paint scheme of the blue 818R, but in red and white.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140709-04013.jpg
A lot of suppliers have helped with parts. KONI, Wilwood, Electromotive, etc. APR sent us their latest road race wing that promises to deliver a tremendous amount of rear downforce. Picture above shows our custom positioning jig for the frame mounts (that’s a joke).

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140710-04018.jpg
The turbo runs with a bigger intercooler and heat exchanger. Front headlights are replaced with blockout panels and we are adding front canards for more front downforce.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140710-04019.jpg
John helps fit panels while the engine goes together.

[Dave Smith]

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140711-04051.jpg
Tony Zullo finishes the front end. Note the front splitter is a bit further out.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140711-04052.jpg
Dan helps with wiring.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140711-04055.jpg

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140711-04056.jpg
This picture is from Thursday evening with only four before the first track test scheduled for Tuesday and UTCC is on Friday.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140711-04062.jpg
The front end is mostly done (above) and Jim works on wiring (below).

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140711-04064.jpg

Next week, the team will be on the road with the car and I will report from VIR on the status if the team doesn’t kill me before then.

[gwarden]

looks like an great car good job. I saw it in the build stage and want to see it run.
When will they be at VIR?

[Doowop]

Dave,
Thanks for sharing. I can't wait to see how the car does and see a full detailed report of the mods. THanks

[metalmaker12]

Nice job boys once again, like the upgrades!!! Now go kill em dead

[Mitch Wright]

The carbon headlight block outs, is that something that will be offered in the future?

[Mitch Wright]

The carbon headlight block outs, is that something that will be offered in the future? The car looks great, looking forward to getting started on my R project next month.

[C.Plavan]

Need a driver :)

[Canadian818]

Nice stuff! I want those front canards! Any ETA on the show airing?

[apexanimal]

how about some body fitment tips?

[waruaki]

how about some body fitment tips?

+ 1

[Mitch Wright]

Is the drivers side aluminum intrusion panel coming with the new R Kits?

[FFRSpec72]

Is the drivers side aluminum intrusion panel coming with the new R Kits?

Its not an intrusion panel, just normal aluminum panel, mine had them, replaced them with real 1/8" steel intrusion panel.

[Dave Smith]

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/image818rc.jpg
Update, Sunday July 13: The guys worked through the weekend and completed the red 818R. This week, we have a few days to do some shake down testing and driving before heading to VIR for the Ultimate Track Car Challenge on Friday, July 18th.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/image818rb.jpg
We didn’t have time to paint the car, so we used the opportunity to test gel coat color in red. The blue car was painted and the red car here is red and white gel coat. Tony buffed the red gel coat and didn’t have time to touch the white gel coat, but everyone agreed they look pretty darn good.

[Canadian818]

Can't wait to see how it does at VIR. Any plans to wind tunnel test the new wing and canards?

[bbjones121]

Looks great! Can't wait to see how it does and learn more about the build.

[David Hodgkins]

I'd love to see more details about the build! How did you attach the wing?

Do you see any new parts coming out of this development process?

:)

[Mitch Wright]

Good luck and also looking forward to build details.

[Dave Smith]

We won't have time this week to do anything other than get to the race and hope to do well. Racing has always been a bit of a frustration as we have to run a company at the same time and commonly we race with a lower budget and shared resources. Still, this car does have some cool changes that we want to test out on the track. The canards are one for front downforce and the vent cut-outs are bigger for cooling and DF. The rear wing has a new and very strong frame mount since the wing is capable of much more df than we had before. We probably won't get a chance to run it thru the tunnel (I wish we could) so we'll have to trust John George's feedback at speed and balance it in the real world. We'll probably go back with those settings (to the wind tunnel). One part of the reason for the effort was also to finalize set-up specs and the R version manual. When we get back from VIR we'll complete the R assembly manual and add complete details on proper set-up and try and make sure to transfer all that learning to the community. There will be tons to report from the track sesh and days following.

[Mechie3]

Bigger vents for cooling? Is this a change to the hood?

[ehansen007]

Best of luck guys! Looks so cool. Amazing when you have a build team and a lot of room how fast it can go! I spent all weekend with John Tongish just installing the under-aluminum and I am beat. Can't wait to see your results!

[C.Plavan]

We really need an "R" wing mounting "kit"...... Stress REALLY

[Brando]

the wing is capable of much more df than we had before
I was under the impression the old wing created more than enough downforce. Why did you guys opt for more?
Did you go with the APR GT-1000?

[metalmaker12]

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/image818rc.jpg
Update, Sunday July 13: The guys worked through the weekend and completed the red 818R. This week, we have a few days to do some shake down testing and driving before heading to VIR for the Ultimate Track Car Challenge on Friday, July 18th.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/image818rb.jpg
We didn’t have time to paint the car, so we used the opportunity to test gel coat color in red. The blue car was painted and the red car here is red and white gel coat. Tony buffed the red gel coat and didn’t have time to touch the white gel coat, but everyone agreed they look pretty darn good.

If it's not painted how did you get the red and white on the top panels, vinyl??

[Jim Schenck]

The old wing did provide enough downforce to balance that setup but we are hoping the more aggressive front end treatment on this car will require more rear wing to balance it out. Besides the canards and the larger air outlets (just cut larger not a different hood) we also have extended the splitter out further which is why we felt we needed the extra supports. We also pushed the front of the doors inboard to make more space for air to get out behind the front wheels, and maybe have one more thing to add after our test but before VIR.

And the red on the decklid is vinyl.

[bbjones121]

When can we find out about the one more thing??

[Frank818]

We also pushed the front of the doors inboard to make more space for air to get out behind the front wheels

Interesting. Did you require new/modified parts for that it's just a simple fitment adjustment with the existing door/side panels and current frame?

[Kyle@AJW]

Is that a 6 speed that I see in there?

[EricScottZehnder]

Really glad to see the canards and better front wing (with supports). I would love to see this offered as an aero option officially. The regular carbon fiber rear wing supposedly balances with the regular front wing at like 0 or 1 degree with 5 or 10 being way to much. With the new front aero, I would think the regular rear aero could still be used but just at a higher degree (5, 10, etc).

Looking forward to testing videos and lap times!

[C.Plavan]

How about some interior shots. Fuel cell area etc? Good luck on the test!

[Brando]

We also pushed the front of the doors inboard to make more space for air to get out behind the front wheels
Interesting idea. So I suppose you didn't install the splash guards behind the front wheels to make that work

[FFR-ADV]

The old wing did provide enough downforce to balance that setup but we are hoping the more aggressive front end treatment on this car will require more rear wing to balance it out. Besides the canards and the larger air outlets (just cut larger not a different hood) we also have extended the splitter out further which is why we felt we needed the extra supports. We also pushed the front of the doors inboard to make more space for air to get out behind the front wheels, and maybe have one more thing to add after our test but before VIR.

And the red on the decklid is vinyl.

Looks Great Jim!

Are you using the GT-1000 ? What are you expecting for cornering G's with this new aero kit? With this wing it certainly could be neck straining.

http://www.aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=352

Nice job! I look forward to seeing what it does on the track.

[Brando]

I spoke with APR, it is the GT-1000

[ssssly]

Sorry if I missed it in the post someplace, but could you provide the specs on the wheels?

[bbjones121]

Do we know if the transmission is going to be something like this?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2586829&highlight=lsd

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Do we know if the transmission is going to be something like this?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2586829&highlight=lsd

It looks like an STI 6 speed to me
Bob

31405

[Frank818]

@Wilwood guy

Not sure which rear brake setup you are using here, but when using the 12.19" #140-7006 1999-2004 Impreza WRX, the pads are over hanging. We seem to all have that problem, are you in a position you can help?

[Dave Smith]

Update, Wednesday July 16:

We ran Lime Rock yesterday to test and tune. Its a good thing we did as we had a stuck master cylinder which completely melted the front brake caliper pistons. The boys at Wilwood are FedExing us new front brakes since we are heading today for Virginia. We did manage to run a 56.3 seconds lap time which is pretty darn fast on an old set of slicks (we’re saving the new ones for UTCC). Didn’t have enough time to optimize downforce as we had some cooling issues. The crew has been working on the cars all morning and we are loading up shortly.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140716-04150.jpg
Here’s what happens where your brakes don’t let go and you keep racing.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140716-04152.jpg
Both 818Rs are about to be loaded on the trailers even though it doesn’t look like it. The red car is testing a recessed door cut-out (that’s the black area on the leading edge of the door). We probably will not be able to get to the wind tunnel on this trip, but this part and the new wings/canards really need it.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140716-04153.jpg
John George will be driving and he is bringing his tech gear.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/IMG-20140716-04154.jpg
Last challenge on the list seems to be getting the alternator working. A new one is minutes away.

[C.Plavan]

Much higher roll bar than the Blue car. Also they added the same cross bar in the interior.

[apexanimal]

door cutouts are good as well... should help with rad flow...

[JeromeS13]

Last challenge on the list seems to be getting the alternator working. A new one is minutes away.

Since you're not using the OEM gauge cluster, don't forget to install a jumper in place of the BATTERY light. Without that, it will not provide exciter voltage to the internal regulator.

[svanlare]

Unfortunately I learned that same lesson after going through a series of alternators on a track car. Who knew the light on he dash was needed and not just informational...

[metros]

Good luck fellas! Looking forward to hearing how everything goes.

[skullandbones]

Don't know who came up with the door indent but that was genius! Form and function: hard to beat! Good luck on the track.

WEK.

[Sgt.Gator]

Since you're not using the OEM gauge cluster, don't forget to install a jumper in place of the BATTERY light. Without that, it will not provide exciter voltage to the internal regulator.

JeromeS13 and svanlare: Could you explain more fully what needs to be done?
Thanks!

[Jim Schenck]

The "one more thing" was the door vents. We didn't get tons of time on the red car but John's feedback was that it has noticeably more grip than the blue one, with pretty much the same set-up and tires, so thats a good sign that the aero stuff is working. Also the roll bar on the red car is the stock height, blue car was a prototype and was lower.

[JeromeS13]

JeromeS13 and svanlare: Could you explain more fully what needs to be done?
Thanks!

If you're not running the OEM gauge cluster, you'll need to install a jumper between pins C7 (i11) and B1 (i10) of the plugs (this is for an '06 WRX, so yours may be different). If you do not have this 12v+ going to the alternator when the ignition is on, the alternator will not charge the system.

[svanlare]

We run a 300Z and when I pulled the dash, we started going through alternators (not every weekend, but often enough that we knew there was a problem). Once we figured out what the problem was, that the charge light was how the +12 Ignition voltage got to the alternator to establish the field, I added a simple incandescent light to the dash http://...Incandescent-Indicator-Lights (http://www.delcity.net/store/Incandescent-Indicator-Lights/p_800790) and the problem has been solved for the last 10 races or so. Originally I tried just jumping up to +12 IGN, but the alternator would squeal once I did that, so I'm assuming it wants a small amount of resistance between the field and the output so that it can float a little.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h276/svanlare/ChargeLight_zps0eff5153.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/user/svanlare/media/ChargeLight_zps0eff5153.jpg.html)

-Steve

[C.Plavan]

The "one more thing" was the door vents. We didn't get tons of time on the red car but John's feedback was that it has noticeably more grip than the blue one, with pretty much the same set-up and tires, so thats a good sign that the aero stuff is working. Also the roll bar on the red car is the stock height, blue car was a prototype and was lower.


Jim,

Any plans or time frame on offering these aero parts? The body on my 818R is starting to go on. First race is scheduled in Oct with NASA. I will be testing a lot before then :)

[Jim Schenck]

My thought in making them was to offer them, same goes for the canards. Ultimately I would like anyone to be able to replicate the car we built if they want and then share set-up data back and forth as I think that is what really gets the car to the next level track time wise.
If people want them please speak up and I can get them into production, if not I can probably at least get a few sets done.

FYI this is the set-up we used:

Front:
Ride Height 3.25 inches
Toe: 1/16 inch total toe in
Camber: -2.5 degrees (had to trim the upper arm just a bit to get this much)
Caster: +3.5 degrees (manual steering, although we are going to test power with 5-6 degrees next time)
Production "R" springs and shocks
No sway bar but also may test the bar again to see if we like it at the higher speed tracks

Rear:
Ride Height: 3.5 inches
Toe: 1/4 inch total toe in
Camber: -3.0 degrees
Roll steer set at zero (both lower links parallel)

Suspension and Brake Components:
2006 aluminum front lowers with Beatrush heim joint Anti-lift kit
Whiteline poly bushings on front lower arm and rear trailing arm at spindle
Adjustable rod end lower transverse links (all 4 rears)
Rod end adjustable lower trailing arms
Wilwood 13 inch front brakes
Wilwood 12 inch rear brakes
Rota Torque 17 front and 18 rear wheels
Yokohama Advan Slicks 210 front and 240 rear

[C.Plavan]

My thought in making them was to offer them, same goes for the canards. Ultimately I would like anyone to be able to replicate the car we built if they want and then share set-up data back and forth as I think that is what really gets the car to the next level track time wise.
If people want them please speak up and I can get them into production, if not I can probably at least get a few sets done.

FYI this is the set-up we used:

Front:
Ride Height 3.25 inches
Toe: 1/16 inch total toe in
Camber: -2.5 degrees (had to trim the upper arm just a bit to get this much)
Caster: +3.5 degrees (manual steering, although we are going to test power with 5-6 degrees next time)
Production "R" springs and shocks
No sway bar but also may test the bar again to see if we like it at the higher speed tracks

Rear:
Ride Height: 3.5 inches
Toe: 1/4 inch total toe in
Camber: -3.0 degrees
Roll steer set at zero (both lower links parallel)

Suspension and Brake Components:
2006 aluminum front lowers with Beatrush heim joint Anti-lift kit
Whiteline poly bushings on front lower arm and rear trailing arm at spindle
Adjustable rod end lower transverse links (all 4 rears)
Rod end adjustable lower trailing arms
Wilwood 13 inch front brakes
Wilwood 12 inch rear brakes
Rota Torque 17 front and 18 rear wheels
Yokohama Advan Slicks 210 front and 240 rear


Thanks-
Put me down for the canards and door vents. I don't mind testing the out. I already planned on extending the front splitter like you have done. Any idea when these could be ready? I'm installing the side intrusion sheet right now (1/8" 7075 T6 aluminum I made up).

[drdracing]

Put me down for canards and door vents as well. Drd racing

[projectrally]

Door vents and canards for me too, Jim.

[DodgyTim]

Door vents and canards for me too, thanks.

[FFR-ADV]

Jim,

The door cutouts look great! Could these be done on an 818S? Is Factory Five considering offering an install kit for the APR GT-1000 wings? For both the 818S and 818R?

I look forward to seeing your wind tunnel test results and the performance on the track. This is going to be an awesome car!

[metalmaker12]

Door cut outs and canards for me, they look killer!!! Good job FFR, now go put the built engine in, test it on the road and have at it guys. Prove to the world the 818 means business.

[metros]

I would be interested in the canards and door cut outs down the road. I'm nowhere close to body work yet and need to focus the budget elsewhere right now.

Any data on where the r shocks were set to?

[Sgt.Gator]

Thanks JeromeS13 and svanlare. This helps, I have an AIM dash and have been wondering if my charging system is working correctly.

[Jim Schenck]

Shocks on the R were set on the softest setting, the last track we did the testing had some rough spots that gave us a little bit of hop on the next 2 clicks up but at VIR we might have been able to run a little stiffer given some time to test there. (UTCC is just a one day event)

I don't think the door vents would be an easy fit to an "S", they cut right through where the hinges go.

Also when we added the canards to the blue car, between Lime Rock and VIR, we did pick up some oversteer. For anyone planning on adding both of these to the front you will have to run a fairly aggressive rear wing, The red car has the APR GT1000 but they made it for us in a 67 in. length which they have but don't list on their website. We also extended the rear diffuser further out the back of the red car by sliding it up and out and putting an aluminum patch panel in the gap where it no longer reached the old floor. It didn't fit the body perfect anymore but still didn't look bad and helped give us about 3 inches extra tunnel.

[apexanimal]

so 3" out for the diffuser... how many inches out for the splitter?

(i feel like i read it somewhere but can't find it now...)

[Jim Schenck]

Splitter was 4-1/2 inches out from the nose in total, so about an extra inch from standard. With that extra length we felt like we needed the added supports as well.

[bbjones121]

Canards and vents for me!

[Brando]

Door vents and Canards for me

[Brando]

Also when we added the canards to the blue car, between Lime Rock and VIR, we did pick up some oversteer. For anyone planning on adding both of these to the front you will have to run a fairly aggressive rear wing, The red car has the APR GT1000 but they made it for us in a 67 in. length which they have but don't list on their website..

Hi Jim. Currently i'm running the splitter (extended forward) & diffuser tucked in. I'm running R6's and a GTC-300 @ 2AOA and it seems balanced.
At 100mph adding the 10 degrees give you 25% more downforce.

0AOA:
80mph - 151lb
100mph - 238lb
120mph - 345lb

5AOA
80mph - 184lb
100mph - 290lb
120mph - 420lb

10AOA
80mph - 202lb
100mph - 317lb
120mph - 459lb

Do think the GTC-300 with a 10AOA be sufficient to balance the canards or is the CTC-500/GT-1000 going to be needed?
On the door vents, will we need to completely remove the splash guard for it to vent?

[FFR-ADV]

I don't think the door vents would be an easy fit to an "S", they cut right through where the hinges go.

Thanks Jim,

Starring at my frame I see what you mean. It is mighty close between the hinges. Of course the advantage of the doors is when we (hopefully) get a hardtop. It would be nice to do as much as we can for the S. Most of us want as much of a plated race car "R" as we can get even in the S. Creating an SR as it were.

Thanks again for all you and the FFR 818 team have done.

[Jim Schenck]

Brando,

We have the wing at 4.5 degrees on the blue car so there is still room for adjustment. I think you will be fine by just adding canards and adjusting accordingly.

[FFRSpec72]

Jim, do the door cutouts come in past the side cage bars as I have steel intrusion panels in place now. If the answer is no then the I would take door cutouts and canards

[Jim Schenck]

The door vents leave about an inch of the door intact across the front so they are offset about that distance out from the roll cage, should be no problem with anti-intrusion plates.

[Canadian818]

Canards please!

[Doowop]

Ducks (which mean Canards in French) and door vents for sure. Thanks :)

[ssssly]

My thought in making them was to offer them, same goes for the canards. Ultimately I would like anyone to be able to replicate the car we built if they want and then share set-up data back and forth as I think that is what really gets the car to the next level track time wise.
If people want them please speak up and I can get them into production, if not I can probably at least get a few sets done.

FYI this is the set-up we used:

Front:
Ride Height 3.25 inches
Toe: 1/16 inch total toe in
Camber: -2.5 degrees (had to trim the upper arm just a bit to get this much)
Caster: +3.5 degrees (manual steering, although we are going to test power with 5-6 degrees next time)
Production "R" springs and shocks
No sway bar but also may test the bar again to see if we like it at the higher speed tracks

Rear:
Ride Height: 3.5 inches
Toe: 1/4 inch total toe in
Camber: -3.0 degrees
Roll steer set at zero (both lower links parallel)

Suspension and Brake Components:
2006 aluminum front lowers with Beatrush heim joint Anti-lift kit
Whiteline poly bushings on front lower arm and rear trailing arm at spindle
Adjustable rod end lower transverse links (all 4 rears)
Rod end adjustable lower trailing arms
Wilwood 13 inch front brakes
Wilwood 12 inch rear brakes
Rota Torque 17 front and 18 rear wheels
Yokohama Advan Slicks 210 front and 240 rear

What are the width and offset of the wheels?

[Brando]

Hi Jim. It seems like the canards & vent counts have slowed down.
Based on the responses do you see them becoming a production item or will you be making them per order?

I know a few of us are really interested in getting our hands on these.

EDIT: I was also curious if you have you considered adding vortex generators to compliment the canards?

Thanks for sharing the R&D and hope to reciprocate the efforts.

[Jim Schenck]

That was enough yes's for me to go ahead with running it past everyone involved here and make sure there are no objections, although I do not forsee any. There is a little work to do on the Canard mold since it was single sided and I think needs to be a two peice (sandwhich) for a part that is so visible on the top and bottom.

[Jim Schenck]

Canards and Door exit ducts are available now, $199 for the canards in carbon and $129 for the ducts in black ge-coat fiberglass.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Canards and Door exit ducts are available now, $199 for the canards in carbon and $129 for the ducts in black ge-coat fiberglass.

Thanks Jim,
Am I correct in saying the door vent are only for the 818R?
Bob

[Joe Scott]

Bob, yes door vents for R only, will not fit with frame-work

Joe@FFRTECH

[D Clary]

any chance of the headlight blockoffs?

[bbjones121]

Could the frame be modified by someone who could creatively weld to make vents work on 818S?

[Doowop]

I see the canards on the website, but not the door vents. do We just need to call them? What are the required mods to put the vents in, besides cutting the door to put them in. I mean, the door mounting is different? any pics?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Could the frame be modified by someone who could creatively weld to make vents work on 818S?

The door hinge mechanism is in the way. But anything is possible.
Bob
3264332644

[bbjones121]

I hope something can be done. That door joint on car is one of two places i try not to show pictures of to people. The other is the large flat rearend.

[flynntuna]

Hmmmm! Very interesting.

[Jim Schenck]

The carbon headlight covers were just splashes we took off an old set of headlights, then we had to slot the nose, slide them down in the slot, and glue them on both sides, not something I think we could really sell and have people happy with. The door vents just rivit to the outside of the R door shells, basically set them inside the door, trace around the outside and then make your cut line an even 3/4 inch inside the tracing. If you wanted to use them for the S you could make them smaller with a fairly simple amount of fiberglass work, or have a body shop do it, but the same thing goes for the S as it did for these, if enough people want them we can make a mold. They would probably end up less than half the depth they are now but still that would make a difference.

[bbjones121]

Would love to see more pictures of the front door vent.

[Frank818]

Would love to see more pictures of the front door vent.

Agreed. Can't tell if I want it on the S (smaller) from the pix I've seen so far.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Would love to see more pictures of the front door vent.
Here are the best pictures I have.
Bob

32670 32671

[Frank818]

Ha, great pix! Now I see it better. We would see it even better if was the same color as the door, maybe that's why I couldn't see it much before.

Well I'm in for the S (smaller ones), if the price is right.

[bbjones121]

Same. I am in for S version. ...or just new door panel ;)