Priorities ??

[fordboy]

In light of the UCA discussions and the serious-ness of potential problems, I feel guilty piping up with my problem. I've kinda kept a low profile with my basically stock build....complete kit, Forte plug n play FORD RACING 302 engine with the bell housing hydraulic clutch and Tremec T5 already hanging on the block when I picked it up...4 into 4 headers, NITTO NT555 meats with a couple of Breeze, JEGS and Cobra Earl add ons.. I kinda skated trouble free up until tonite...body went on snug as a glove, and the bleepin headers on the driver side are at least 1.5" high.... so tomorow, before we hang the doors, trunk and hood we'll take another look...and after following the other posts there aint gonna be an easy out on this... Anyone got a magic pill to make this go away ??

31086

[frankeeski]

Start with the side to side level of the engine. An 1/8 of and inch at the engine translates to much more at the end of the headers. Loosen the motor mounts and even the height of the headers side to side. Then see how it looks, You'll end up cutting the openings on both sides a little, instead of a bunch on one side

[Jeff Kleiner]

You're making a common observation that 90% of the time turns out to be a non-issue. When you drop the body on and look at the headers the visual is very deceiving. Frank is exactly right; a small adjustment moving the engine in the mount slots results in big changes at the end of the headers. Even before going that far though you need to install the front splash panels (since the headers are visible behind the tire in your photo it's clear that they are not in place) and then actually try the pipes. With the elephant ear panels pushing the lower edge of the body out behind the wheels along with the curvature of the pipes I bet you'll find that it's pretty close. FFR intentionally cuts the openings small and I usually need to clearance them at the front and rear but generally remove very little if any material along the top.

Good luck,
Jeff

[edwardb]

Agree completely with the two previous posts. A little movement at the motor mounts translates into much larger movement at the the end of the headers. Also agree the cutouts need to be enlarged to fit, and you need the elephant ears in place to determine the final cutout location and size. In my experience, 1-1/2 inches off isn't that bad without any adjustments. The way the motor wedges into the motor mounts and stops at the first interference, no surprise it's not at the optimal location. You mention the DS being too high. What about the PS? Obviously they're going to move together, so you need to find the optimal location for each. For both of my builds, the initial engine install also resulted in the DS being too high. With the headers bolted in place, loosen the large engine mount bolts slightly (the ones holding to the chassis, not the block), put a floor jack under the low header and put a little upward pressure on it. Don't overdue it. Tighten the bolts. You should be able to get it centered this way. May need a couple attempts. FWIW, both of my builds also with SBF's required the PS notch for the motor mount pin to need extending up about 1/8 inch to get the engine centered best side-to-side. Others have reported the same thing, but not all. This might be another option.

[skullandbones]

The MKIII was my first build so I was extremely anxious of the header angles when first installed. No this hasn't changed with the MKIV. There are so many compound angles to deal with, visually it is not very helpful to evaluate the situation at the point of your pic. I think Jeff suggested putting the side pipes on. That's what I did and it put everything into perspective. It lets you see subtle changes at the end of the pipes and the spacing between the pipes and body edges. When I first put them on, one was way out from the body and the other too close. As mentioned, nudging the position with the header as a lever, puts things in a better position. It may be far enough off that you have to install one side (in your case the PS) and then adjust before being able to install the DS. When I was able to get the DS on it was touching the body. Had to pull the bottom of body out to fit the header in place. I took a little off the sides. Can't remember how much each side but just a little at a time with a grinder with medium scuff wheel (not an aggressive pad). It involved body being moved on and off a few times. I have still not cut the tops of the side pipe holes but will take a little off at final body work stage. Also, these are not symmetrical and there are off sets so don't expect centerline or symmetry to help you as in some processes. Bottom line: it's fitment as opposed to something wrong. Welcome to the more challenging parts of your build. Good luck, WEK.

[CraigS]

To add a thought to the discussion. Do not worry about the engine itself being level. It doesn't matter. In fact most are off a little. Judge all your engine moving only by the headers relation to the body. An easy way to move the engine is stick a long pipe up one of the low side headers and lift. Use a jack if needed. You need to move it quite a bit while the rubber mounts flex and then suddenly the mounts will slide a little on top of the chassis pads. good luck.