First start attempt (video) : success!

[jakester888]

Following the advise of seagul81 on the forums and studying a few youtube videos, I found a "close enough" timing that worked. The beast is alive! Yes!

PS : No fires.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JZ14nQumGM&feature=youtu.be

[skullandbones]

Congratulations!!!

[jayguy]

Congratulations! That's a great feeling, isn't it?

[jakester888]

Yes! It's been 3 long years.

The first year was spent dis-robing the donor & cleaning parts. Lesson learned : start with complete kit.
The second year was spent assembling.
The third year was interrupted by a 9 month hiatus due to job relocation. I've worked on the engine for about 2 months to get her to rip.

Lessons along the way:
1) Start with the complete kit - saves time & money.
2) Use the correct bolts for connecting suspension to the body - don't buy cheap stuff from Home Depot.
3) Forget about re-using old wiring harness. Start fresh with Ron Francis main harness & Chuck's electric's EFI harness.
4) You don't need EGR, remove the spacer.
5) Tighten the fuel lines before you pressurize the fuel system.
6) Keep the footbox side & top cover OFF of the driver's side. Too much work needs to be done in there. Button it up last.
7) Inventory parts when the kit first arrives. Alleviates questions later.
8) Beer & Pizza to bribe fellow enthusiasts.
9) Double check & triple check your wiring. Don't forget about the safety clutch, inertia switch & grounding points.
10) It's OK to walk away & come back. Life happens, give it time.

[fordboy]

Hey Jakester...I posted a question yesterday about the weather stripping to put on the forward frame rails and the trunk hoop.. read what Jeff Kleiner told me about that stuff that you used... it kinda opens up to 2" but is intended to go on the side of the foot boxes block hot air blowing back thru the door jam area... According to Jeff the tubular rails should get the adhesive foam that is 1/2" to 3/4" wide and only 3/8" or so thick...there isnt enough of that thick stuff to do the frame.

[pcww]

Congrats. I felt for you the first time. Pure joy on your face.

[jakester888]

Hey Jakester...I posted a question yesterday about the weather stripping to put on the forward frame rails and the trunk hoop.. read what Jeff Kleiner told me about that stuff that you used... it kinda opens up to 2" but is intended to go on the side of the foot boxes block hot air blowing back thru the door jam area... According to Jeff the tubular rails should get the adhesive foam that is 1/2" to 3/4" wide and only 3/8" or so thick...there isnt enough of that thick stuff to do the frame.

I saw that. You're right.

[jakester888]

She's running at solid idle now and starts up immediately. Had to remove the distributor and pull the key/gear location a notch or two to find the sweet spot for timing.

I did not install the timing marker that sits above the harmonic balancer and besides that I think I installed the harmonic balance off by one turn, so I really don't have a reference to find 10 deg from TDC. So, just going by sound and the fact that it has a constant idle now. Is there a better way to dial in given the detractors? I don't want to re-install the balancer.

[skullandbones]

I don't think it's possible to install the balancer wrong. You can put the wrong weight balancer like a 50 oz instead of the 28 oz one. Mine needed the 28 oz counter balancing per the engine manufacturer. I've also seen some that are balanced internally without any external counterbalancing but it states that when you get the short block or long block. Of the three engines I had, there were two different types of degree markers. One is a pointer which I like but would not work on my short block. So the other one has a straight edge that is perpendicular to the balancer. I have had some trouble seeing the marks on the balancer but white out in the grooves worked. Start at 10 degrees as your baseline and work up to 14 degrees. Good luck,

WEK.

[edwardb]

Agreed it's not possible to install the balancer in the wrong position. It's keyed to a specific spot on the nose of the crankshaft. Both the flywheel and harmonic balancers have specific imbalance properties, and only work properly when installed into a precise location. So they're designed to only be installed that way. It's really critical that you find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the #1 cylinder and have a timing pointer and marks on the harmonic balancer so you can set timing precisely. "By ear" isn't really good enough. Ford small blocks have multiple timing pointer locations depending on front timing cover (and other factors). Does your engine have a timing pointer? If not, you need to get one. If it doesn't align with the marks already on the balancer, you can find TDC and make your own marks. Or there are timing tapes available that you can stick in place on the balancer. I have one on the 306 in my Mk3 that still looks like new several years later. Does the job.

Note the above comments assume either a 28 or 50 ounce imbalance setup. It is possible to have a zero balance setup, meaning the imbalance weighting has been installed into the crankshaft itself. But this is an aftermarket setup with performance parts that I do not think are what you are working with here.

BTW, I don't understand your description of removing the distributor adjusting the gear somehow. Normally you adjust the timing by only rotating the distributor by loosening the hold-down bolt. That way you're rotating the entire distributor body around the geared shaft, and the actual location of the gear on the shaft is taken into account. Also normally the driver gear is pressed on and typically has a drive key to hold in place. Not something easily adjusted except when servicing, e.g. replacing the gear.

[jakester888]

BTW, I don't understand your description of removing the distributor adjusting the gear somehow. Normally you adjust the timing by only rotating the distributor by loosening the hold-down bolt. That way you're rotating the entire distributor body around the geared shaft, and the actual location of the gear on the shaft is taken into account. Also normally the driver gear is pressed on and typically has a drive key to hold in place. Not something easily adjusted except when servicing, e.g. replacing the gear.

There is about 1/4 turn of play in the distributor. This was not quite enough to dial it in. So I removed the distributor, rotated one gear clockwise and re-inserted. Then I foudnd the right area to fine tune and reach solid idle.

I've ordered a timing marker from LateModelRestoration.

www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-6023A/79-93-Mustang-50l-58l-302-Timing-Pointer

[riptide motorsport]

Sweet..congratulations!!!!!

[mrpipes]

Way to go, jakester!

Brian

[edwardb]

There is about 1/4 turn of play in the distributor. This was not quite enough to dial it in. So I removed the distributor, rotated one gear clockwise and re-inserted. Then I foudnd the right area to fine tune and reach solid idle.

I've ordered a timing marker from LateModelRestoration.

www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-6023A/79-93-Mustang-50l-58l-302-Timing-Pointer

OK, that makes sense. Sounded like you were do something with the gear. Sorry for my misunderstanding. Yea, sometimes you have to lift it in/out a few times to find the best spot. Still should rotate more than that with the hold-down bolt loosened, but sounds like you're on the right track.

[jakester888]

I've just got to tell you guys once again what an AWESOME feeling it is to come home from work and fire up the cobra and hear it rumble deep down in my gut. I built this with my bare hands and the thing actually runs - amazing. No engine leaks, no power-steering leaks, no water leaks. It just frickin' works. Such a great feeling! I've shared the first start video with many.

Since the video I've dialed it in and it starts right up now & runs like a beast. Sounds so damn good!

God bless America, Carol Shelby, Lee Iacocca & the Smith brothers - and of course my bro's back in upstate NY for their help.

[Eastcoastcobras]

Congrats!