View Full Version : Bumper/Overrider install ??
gtcobra
04-10-2011, 06:20 AM
Hey guys, I am looking for some direction on installing the bumpers and overriders on a MK4. Gas tank is in, and I dont want to have to remove it, I heard something about using all thread to get it done,.... Any advice would be appreciated
TIA
CapeCoralCobra
04-10-2011, 10:21 AM
Mk4 may be different, but the only place I needed the all thread to avoid dropping the tank on my Mk3.1 is the lower right position. The tank is in the way, no way to get the bolt in from the inside. If you want, you could use all thread in all 4 locations. I cut the all thread just a little longer, maybe 1/4", than the bolt length, just to make sure the inside nut had plenty of room on the threads, but don't recall if it was necessary when all said & done. Inside upper right position required a swivel and fairly long extension on socket.
AC Bill
04-10-2011, 11:17 AM
I used the all-thread, but just one actually needed.
After slipping the all-thread in through the body and trunk (adding the appropriate size tubing, washers, etc.), but before reaching the frame plate, I threaded two nuts on it, (between the trunk aluminum and the frame plate), to use as jam nuts. This way I could then tighten the all-thread firmly into the overrider, using an open ended wrench. I then loosened and spun those nuts back up against the outer (rear side) of the frame plate, and tightened/jammed them. This allowed me then to add a nylock nut to the all-thread on the inside (forward side) of the frame plate, without the all-thread turning as I tightened it.
Worked great!
Doing it this way, I figured the jam nuts would act as protection from the all thread being jammed back into my fuel tank if rear ended. In the worse case scenario, if the frame actually bent back, the end nylock would hopefully help resist puncturing the tank.
neilmathieu
04-10-2011, 06:03 PM
What about fixing the front overrider ? I have 26 inches between the hoops and the front overrider is 28 inches ...
CapeCoralCobra
04-11-2011, 09:22 AM
Neil, where did you get your hoop/overriders? Mine are from F5 and fit perfectly. 28 3/8" from L to R hoop flange outside edge, front, along horizontal centerline (See attached photo).
If they are too far apart some people are using rachet straps to pull them together to get the bolts started.
neilmathieu
04-13-2011, 02:43 PM
Thanks CapeCoralCobra,
I got it from F5 and it does not fit ; I will send pictures after triple check . Thanks for the reply and the picture.
neilmathieu
07-17-2011, 08:27 PM
Hoop / overidders differents between Mark 3 amd Mark IV ? I tried my front on the Mark III and it fits but not on my Mark IV ; it is 1.5 larger, I need 26.5 inches and the part has 28 inches. Suggestions, ideas to fix it ? Thanks !
NicksPapaw
07-18-2011, 08:47 AM
Quick fix would be to just send them to me, as I have a MKIII. This would ease your mental stress and you would then be free to purchase an appropriate set for the MKIV. :)
CapeCoralCobra
07-18-2011, 09:34 AM
Aside from sending them to Steve:rolleyes:, have you called F5? That's what I'd do.
NicksPapaw
07-18-2011, 05:20 PM
Now Alan, don't go giving the man crazy ideas, like calling F5. :)
CapeCoralCobra
07-18-2011, 07:33 PM
Sorry, Steve, I guess I lost my head for a second. What was I thinking?!?:confused:
jxm99
05-05-2014, 02:49 PM
I used the all-thread, but just one actually needed.
After slipping the all-thread in through the body and trunk (adding the appropriate size tubing, washers, etc.), but before reaching the frame plate, I threaded two nuts on it, (between the trunk aluminum and the frame plate), to use as jam nuts. This way I could then tighten the all-thread firmly into the overrider, using an open ended wrench. I then loosened and spun those nuts back up against the outer (rear side) of the frame plate, and tightened/jammed them. This allowed me then to add a nylock nut to the all-thread on the inside (forward side) of the frame plate, without the all-thread turning as I tightened it.
Worked great!
Doing it this way, I figured the jam nuts would act as protection from the all thread being jammed back into my fuel tank if rear ended. In the worse case scenario, if the frame actually bent back, the end nylock would hopefully help resist puncturing the tank.
Good info on the use two nuts as locks. However, you still would need to drop the tank to install the all thread, no?
MPTech
05-05-2014, 04:20 PM
I started this thread and it was very helpful to me in resolving the rear bumper issue on the mk4.
Rear bumper bolts mod? (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/287406-rear-bumper-bolts-mod.html)
I've had the rear bumper on & off a couple times and it is relatively painless this way.
(I think you still need to drop the tank the first time for initial install of the bolts and coupler nuts.
btw, I have the over-riders and full bumper in the rear (I was initially thinking of installing the quick-jacks and changed my mind). With the all-thread installed, I can install the bumper, a small SS spacer, then the Over-Riders and get a Ny-Loc nut started in the over-rider (it IS tricky, but works), then tighten it with a wrench.