5.0 EFI upper instake vacuum question

[jakester888]

I've got a 93 LX 5.0 donor. I do not have EGR, TAD or TAB. I am close to first start and have a few (final?) questions about the vacuum on the upper intake (I think this is called the EGR spacer?):

Do I need the EGR spacer? Should I take it off?

Or leave it on and cap the vacuum lines?

30413

What about this located on the upper intake manifold? Should I cover this? If so, is there a part #?

30414

I think this is what I need for the EGR plate, correct?

www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-8693EGRB/Mustang-EGR-Blockoff-Plate-Billet-86-93-50L

[michael everson]

In your first picture, you only need to cap the one in the top right location. The two on the spacer are actually water, not vacuum. Yes you can eliminate the EGR spacer all together. You will need to come up with a throttle cable mount though. in your second pic, if you keep the EGR spacer, you will need to block that area off.
Mike

[jakester888]

This is what I ended up doing.

I mounted the throttle bracket on the Cobra upper intake and removed EGR spacer altogether.

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[skullandbones]

Jakester,

Thanks for posting this thread. I have been driving mine for a while now and that was one of the first things I was supposed to go back to for upgrade or delete, whatever. So it leads me to the question for you. Have you addressed the CEL (check engine light) issue that will be there when you start your engine. I'm leaving the sensor (the little grey one with the three small screws) on the harness. I haven't started my engine this morning but I am expecting a CEL until I depress the variable switch to get the correct voltage. At that point I will have to epoxy it in place to "fool" the EEC-IV to think the EGR is open partially. The correct position is about 2/3 of the way depressed. If you depress it all the way the CEL comes back on. I had been doing other things on the car so this got put on the back burner. Last night I dismantled the throttle body and redid it along with modifying the bracket and changing the tubes to the cold air. Looks like you handled the mechanical part of it very well. Lucky that you had the bracket already on your upper intake. Mine didn't.

BTW: there is a plug in for the harness (I guess resistor of some kind) for around $20. It is cleaner looking than the stock sensor hanging there on the harness. I will have to see if I can find something a little nicer looking. The removal of the EGR and spacer does clean the look up on that side of the engine a little.

Thanks,

WEK.

[jakester888]

Jakester,

Thanks for posting this thread. I have been driving mine for a while now and that was one of the first things I was supposed to go back to for upgrade or delete, whatever. So it leads me to the question for you. Have you addressed the CEL (check engine light) issue that will be there when you start your engine. I'm leaving the sensor (the little grey one with the three small screws) on the harness. I haven't started my engine this morning but I am expecting a CEL until I depress the variable switch to get the correct voltage. At that point I will have to epoxy it in place to "fool" the EEC-IV to think the EGR is open partially. The correct position is about 2/3 of the way depressed. If you depress it all the way the CEL comes back on. I had been doing other things on the car so this got put on the back burner. Last night I dismantled the throttle body and redid it along with modifying the bracket and changing the tubes to the cold air. Looks like you handled the mechanical part of it very well. Lucky that you had the bracket already on your upper intake. Mine didn't.

BTW: there is a plug in for the harness (I guess resistor of some kind) for around $20. It is cleaner looking than the stock sensor hanging there on the harness. I will have to see if I can find something a little nicer looking. The removal of the EGR and spacer does clean the look up on that side of the engine a little.

Thanks,

WEK.


WEK : I went with the FFR (Ron Francis) wiring harness and the Chuck's Electric's EFI harness. The EFI harness came with resistors installed on several of the sensor connections already (TAD, TAB, etc.). So, hopefully, I won't see that dreaded engine light coming on.

I'm planning first start this weekend - I'll let you know how it goes.

[skullandbones]

That's pretty cool. Do you have a link or a part number for the EGR plug? I want to see if it is the same one I have seen on the web. The main source I've seen has had some negative reviews on service and delivery so I didn't want to get involved with that vendor if possible.

Thanks,

WEK.

[jakester888]

WEK, give Chuck Field a ring, he can fix you up.

Chuck Field
Chuck's Roadster Electrics
12438 Hillcrest Drive
Nevada City CA 95959
530-477-7829 phone
mustang-medic@hotmail.com

[Jeff Kleiner]

Bill,
You can create your own EGR eliminator with a couple bucks worth of resistors. Here is how you do it:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/emn3/Ford_5.gif

Either by this method or by using one of the plug in eliminators you need to spoof the computer or it will think that there is an EGR failure and in addition to throwing codes and turning on the MIL it will try to "protect" the engine by adding fuel and pulling out timing which will have a negative effect on performance.

Jeff