Harley's 818S [Archive] - Factory Five Forums

Harley818

06-14-2014, 02:09 AM

Time to start building.
I've been reading and watching the rest of you build since September.
Decided to go for it and ordered the 818S in November. Delivery day is Next week....hopefully.... after some delays......

Cleaned up half the garage in December, pulled my donor apart in January, then started cleaning up parts, decided on which way to go for adds and deletes, and now after ordering some parts, they are safely stowed and ready.
I laughed when some of you were talking about revenge spending by your wife. I told mine I was starting revenge spending for all the shoes and purses she has bought over the years......lol

Tomorrow I start putting the engine back together.
This has already been alot of fun for me. I was really into cars early on, built my first car when I was 17 after reading every car mag. Did my second build during my first university summer.
Then just had fun driving and doing small mods on each new car while life moved on and we pursued careers, raised 3 kids, built a nice cabin (house, cottage whatever), and did a complete reno on our current home.
I feel like I have my passion for cars back and am looking forward to the whole planning/learning/build process.

Now that I started this thread, I'll have to start posting some pics I took.

The bar that alot of you have set for documenting your builds is pretty high, and I really appreciate the time you took to let us know what you are doing and tips and tricks along the way.
I haven't seen a forum with such a good community spirit yet.
I hope I can return the favor for anyone behind me.
Thanks guys.

AZPete

06-14-2014, 12:16 PM

I like that you are taking the lead on revenge spending by claiming your 818 spending is only revenge for all her shoes and purses. I think I'll try that argument when my new wheel$ and tire$ arrive. Wish me a short hospital stay and quick recovery.

I'm also a guy who built a car as a teenager, worked on a few, and then went a long time dealing with jobs, family and homes only to rediscover wrenching for fun. Now I'm on my second FFR and I can tell you the fun keeps coming. Planning and learning gradually blends into accomplishments and pride as you keep opening the garage door to admire your the latest success. As you progress and learn it's also gratifying to help others on the forum. Most friends will be amazed that you have the knowledge, courage, determination and stupidity to build your own car.

WIS89

06-14-2014, 03:52 PM

Harley-

Like Pete, I admire your going on the offensive by suggesting you are revenge spending. I tried something similar and didn't have the intended effect. Perhaps you will have some better luck!

Good luck getting started and enjoy the build.

Regards,

Steve

Harley818

06-15-2014, 12:50 AM

Hi Guys, thought I would let you in on what I'm planning to build.
Thanks to Wayne, Metalmaker, Mechie3, Rasmus, Xusia, Honolulu818, Plavan, RM1Sepex, Wallace, Guns, Longisland, Brandon, Bob & Cinci, and others who have contributed to my learning through your threads.....

I'm not a Subie guy, so I'm hoping the rest of you Subaru guys will chime in if I am off base or if I can improve something.
I've been following the forum for a while, and found a few threads really helpful.
Simplifying the EJ was one of the best, along with some info I found on NASOIC from Unibomber.

I plan to use the 818 mostly for street driving, to work occasionally on good days, and a few Autocross events.
I will be getting it tuned once it is running to make sure everything works well.
We have a good Subaru rally shop (Rocket Rally Squamish) located close by, as well as Precision Racing Engines who do Subaru work. The local Subaru Dealers from what I gather.....are terrible.

I want to build for reliability with about 270 - 300 hp.
Donor - 2002 Subaru WRX wagon
Engine - EJ205 (Ed. & corrected)
Trans - 5MT, Type 2

* Cobb intake air - (Short one - I am hoping this will fit. Impreza forum says that up to 300 hp this isn't needed, but my donor didn't have any air box
* New MAF sensor (still need one - donor didnt have one)
* Intake hose - silicone
* Intercooler hoses - Mishimoto silicone
* Radiator - Mishimoto aluminum with OEM fans
* Zerolift TGV Deletes - phenolic (helps reduce heat to the intake and improves airflow)
* Throttle body - blocked off coolant lines (helps reduce heat to intake air)
* remove EVAP system (need to figure this out)
* no PVC monitor on 02 that I could find - correct?
* Turbo - stock TD04
* Uppipe - stock 02 wrx, cat removed, EGT removed (helps airflow and eliminates potential debris going into turbo)
* New Waterpump -water pump (cast impeller) - 21111AA026
* Spark plugs – NGK - 2667 BKR7EIX Iridium
* New Oilpump
* STI Pan & oil pickup
* New Gates std Timing belt & idlers
* Heads - had them decked and valves ground, new exhaust valves/seals
* Short block - rebuilding myself with new subaru rings, King main bearings and King conn rod bearings
* Injectors - stock
* Exedy OEM Clutch & pressureplate

* 02 fuel pump (probably upgrade it)
* parallel fuel line mod (need to figure out the stainless steel lines)
* New type N engine mounts
* New 06 front aluminum LCA's (SPT)
* Godspeed rear lateral links
* Replaced wheel bearings/seals
* 02 wrx brakes, new pads and rotors
* Wheels - Not sure yet but I like the Enkei Raijin 18's - same as Erik in gunmetal
* Tires - not sure yet
* 02 wiring harness - harley diet removes the following (Im about 2/3 through)

* doorlocks & rear hatch locks
* A/C
* PS
* rear wiper (wagon)
* security system
* power mirrors
* Airbags
* retain heated WRX seats
* retain ABS
* retain HVAC (don't know if wrx unit will fit but I need a heater and windsheild defog)

Possible upgrades:

* Fuel lines - not sure yet - Agency? aeromotive? will clean up the stock lines
* Exhaust headers - stock or should I go equal length headers (OBX or prosport) - or grimmspeed crosspipe from oakos.com ($195)
* Transmission - add Cusco or Quaife LSD?
* 06-07 EJ25 STi oil pan 11109AA151 (need this if I go to headers?)

* 06-07 EJ25 STi dipstick 11140AA150
* upgrade fuel pump? walbro 342
* PVC delete and catch can? or air oil separator (no maintenance?), Perrin AOS?

* Thanks to all the build threads, Metalmaker, Eric's Flash, Mechie3, Wayne Presley, Wallace18, Xusia, Rasmus, Brando, JeromeS13, longislandwrx, Guns, RMSepex,

I have been living vicariously through you till now..... my kit comes Tuesday... did I mention that already?

Harley818

06-15-2014, 12:51 AM

reserved...

Harley818

06-15-2014, 12:58 AM

My donor.

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narkosys

06-15-2014, 01:18 AM

I would also suggest investing in the soft top as the rain in Vancouver sucks. (been there, done that, moved to the interior :D )

looking forward to seeing the build progress

P

Harley818

06-15-2014, 01:30 AM

Soft top for sure.... and maybe a hardtop.
In the early days, with my TR6, I was known to drive around in the winter with the top down...... but that was many years ago.. Now I'll need the heated seats, a heater, and a hardtop would be nice.

Harley818

06-15-2014, 01:39 AM

I'm not sure what the rest of you are doing for keeping track of ideas, websites, and information you find as you read all the threads.

Just thought I would share what works for me.

I am using Evernote. It is a free download, and is also available as an app for Iphone, Ipad. It probably should have other smart phone apps as well, but I haven't checked that out.
When I am cruising through the forum or any website, I can quickly clip or copy and paste in to Evernote.
Just create a new note, label it with engine, trans, air intake or whatever the topic is.
Evernote also works great as I can take pictures with my Iphone, or Ipad and it adds directly to the note in Evernote.

The best feature is that you can search all the notes with the search function. Searches the titles as well as content, and brings up all the notes related to your search.
You can add, delete or change any note and it updates the note.
Save links, websites etc.

Works great for me and helps keep stuff available without too much organization.
I found it invaluable in collecting and accessing all the info.
Hope this helps someone out there.

Harley818

06-15-2014, 01:50 AM

So far after stripping my donor, Ive been cleaning up parts, repainting, and getting ready for the build.

I had alot of trouble getting the rear suspension apart as my donor was pretty rusted. Had to cut the long bolt connecting the lateral arms in the rear hub, and drill it out, then press the rest out. The 20T press I had didn't budge the rusted bolt in the wheel hub until I drilled it out. I have new bolts now, and I'll be using anti-seize when I put it together.

I had one front LCA damaged, so decided to buy the new SPT Aluminum ones for $300. Also went for new Godspeed rear lateral links and trailing links. These all come complete with bushings, so I didn't have to deal with ordering new bushings and replacing the old ones.

I have access to a sandblaster at work, so I've been spending time after work blasting my parts. Cleaned up the rusty parts really well, and now that they are painted they look great.
Brakes look like new, hubs and spindles all look new.
I have the new bearings, and will be pressing them in soon.

I filed the big casting marks on the intake manifold, and sandblasted the intake. Looks great now after painting.

I'll post some pictures in the next couple days.

riptide motorsport

06-15-2014, 04:48 PM

Your build plan sounds killer...........should be quite stout!

wleehendrick

06-16-2014, 11:45 AM

In the early days, with my TR6, I was known to drive around in the winter with the top down...... but that was many years ago.

Wow... that brings back memories. I grew up in New England and my best friend and I both learned to drive on hand-me-down sports cars form our Dads. I had a 74 2002, he had a TR6. We drove with the top down almost year round with the 'heater' on full blast... toes burning, head freezing.

Good luck with the build!

Evan78

06-17-2014, 01:30 AM

Since you're not a Subaru guy, I'd like to point out that the EJ207 engine comes in non-US STi's (Japan, etc). The EJ205 engine came in 2002-2005 WRX's sold in North America, so unless you've sourced a different engine or your wagon has an engine swap, you have a 205, not 207. Even though they're both 2 liter turbo engines, there are very significant differences. Plenty of info is out there if you're not up to speed on them.

Harley818

06-19-2014, 12:01 AM

Harley818

06-19-2014, 12:12 AM

PICKED UP MY 818 TODAY!!!!!!

Another 818S Safely home and stowed in the garage!
Went to the US/Canada border yesterday with my trailer to pick up the car from Stewart Transport.
Everything went without a hitch.
Stewart Transport there in the predetermined parking lot.
20 mins later it was loaded in my trailer, and I was on the way.
I had all my import papers ready at the border, but all they wanted was my money for taxes..... sailed right through courtesy of VISA.
Had it home and in my garage a couple hours later.

Unfortunately I had to take all the panels off the car to roll it off the trailer since the tailgate was too narrow. No problem, I had to take them off anyways to store them hanging off the ceiling.

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BryceJ

06-19-2014, 12:46 AM

Congratulations!

Now the real fun begins.

Harley818

06-28-2014, 12:51 AM

After the audit, looks like i'm only short front upper ball joints, headlights, and radiator kit.
Could be worse, although i am starting with suspension... so I need the balljoints.

Quality of the product looks good.
Got all my wheel bearings pressed in yesterday. Reviewed all the bolts and ordered extra bolts for the suspension connections.
Should be able to start putting it all together soon.

in the meantime, I was putting together my engine.
got the Block cleaned and decked, heads cleaned and decked, valves ground and adjusted......
Put the new connecting rod bearings in, bolted up to the crank, put the block together...... started loading the piston rings on the pistons....
The size Somerset Subaru sent me was 0.030 oversize..... didn't fit.
Then went to put the new STI oil pan on with the new oil pickup..... didnt fit.

Sent them back.... now waiting for new parts.....
hope this isn't an inkling of what is to come.

Oh well, I guess I can work on something else in the meantime. Clean up a few more parts... take a week off, fix the dryer (squeeking).......LOL

Harley818

06-28-2014, 01:05 AM

Front spindles and hubs cleaned and sandblasted.
Intake sandblasted.
Working on rear spindles...

Found a pipe just the right size to allow press in of new bearing without damaging the rollers.

Heads and block just decked and back from the engine shop. Valves all adjusted with new exhaust valves.

Made a special press tool using old bearing to press new bearing in - I'll post a picture next time.

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Harley818

06-28-2014, 01:12 AM

whoops...last picture upload didn't work.

Last post shows
1 -sandblasted parts ready for paint. Intake, and front spindles.
2 - front spindles sandblasted
3 pressing in the new wheel lugs from Touge factory. Went the Mechie method. Not as long as ARP
4 - Heads ready for install with freshly decked surfaces and new valves ground and adjusted.
5 -Block ready for assembly.
6 - Cylinders ready
7 - kit arrives
8 - Found a pipe just the right size to support the bearings when pressing in the wheel hub.

Harley818

06-28-2014, 01:17 AM

30649
1 - setting up ready for press
2 - wheel hub ready in position to press
3 - Pressed in and ready for installation
4 - special press tool. I used the old bearing, cut slots in it, and ground down the outer diameter. I used this to press in the new bearing to fully seat it at the stop ring. With the cuts and ground down relief, it easily was removable.

sponaugle

06-28-2014, 12:01 PM

PICKED UP MY 818 TODAY!!!!!!

Another 818S Safely home and stowed in the garage!

30220

Very cool. I saw your kit, as the truck you met up with was coming from dropping off my kit in Oregon. Super nice driver and he got my car delivered right on time. As everyone says, now the fun starts!

Jeff

sponaugle

06-28-2014, 12:08 PM

in the meantime, I was putting together my engine.
got the Block cleaned and decked, heads cleaned and decked, valves ground and adjusted......
Put the new connecting rod bearings in, bolted up to the crank, put the block together...... started loading the piston rings on the pistons....

How did your crank and case journals end up measuring out? Did STD bearings give you the right clearance? It seems in most of the 'used' blocks I have measured the #1 and #5 case journals are tighter then the middle ones. New crank or the original one? I usually shoot for .0015 on the mains and .0020 on the rods, but it does depend on your application, oil type, etc.

Jeff

Harley818

07-10-2014, 12:23 AM

Harley818

07-10-2014, 12:52 AM

Updating from post #20, I didn't have a picture at the time.
For pressing in the new wheel bearings, I made a press tool from the old bearing outer race.
I just cut down the sides, and ground a bit off the outer diameter so that when I pressed in the new bearing fully, then I could still remove the old race without much trouble.
Hope this helps... it worked pretty easily and only took about 5 mins to make it.
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Quiny

07-10-2014, 08:13 AM

Maybe I am taking it a bit too lax but I am using the original rods, pistons and crank.
Bought standard rings, bearings and installed them without checking the clearances.
I've done this before with other Ford engines. Do I need to be worried about Subaru tolerances?
I'm not planning to run wild horsepower.

I did pretty much did the same thing, I used King STD bearings they were much cheaper than OEM. I did clearance test with plastigage I also had the big ends on the rods resized. I have built a lot of engines but this is my first Subaru, didn't like it much. What I thought was strange was they use different size pistons from bore to bore sometimes.

Mechie3

07-10-2014, 09:27 AM

They size the pistons to the bore in the factory to get the best fit. The block itself will be stamped on the top with a combination of A/B (C?). That denotes the actual bore size.

metalmaker12

07-10-2014, 10:41 AM

Everything has a tolerance, if it's within clearance tolerance, it should be ok, but at the top of the ring gap tolerance ( bigger gaps) you will get greater blowby etc. Turbo engines need to be put together within tighter tolerances to run correctly. You guys should be ok if you fell within the specs. I always check it three to four times myself and than bring to a machine shop and have them do the same and accomplish any machining needed. Heads, block halls for flatness, valve seating and bench flow tested. These engines tend to wear the walls oval overtime. Most engines I have seen with miles on em need a re-bore and hone and pistons and rings to match, just my two cents.

Harley818

07-12-2014, 12:55 AM

OK, thanks guys, I had a good machine shop check out the block and plane the block and heads. All looked good.
I'm putting the same pistons back in the original cylinder, so they should be good for A, B, C sizing.

metalmaker12

07-12-2014, 04:23 AM

Harley818

08-05-2014, 02:05 PM

Time for an update.... other projects are getting in the way.... hot tub rebuild, bathroom reno, son's out of town baseball tournaments down to Seattle.....

Fit in a little time here and there to get some things done.
Engine: Piston rings came in so now I have the short block complete. Now added waterpump, oil pump and new STI oilpan and pick-up. Ready to start adding TGV deletes and intake.....

Suspension: put one side together to make sure it all fits. I bought lateral links off ebay and have had to grind the width of the connections down to fit the frame. Other than that, once I got the correct bolts figured out, it just fit together nicely.

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Sponaugle - was it you who was asking about the fit at the top of the rear shock with the spacers? I do not have any gaps. I measured the width of all the spacers and labelled them. When I used the correct spacers in the correct locations, they fit perfect....slightly tight to slide in.

Now that I have all the bugs worked out on the drivers side, I can go at the passenger side with my son (hard to keep their attention for long so it pays to work out the details in advance!) Then its on to sheet metal.
We have a pneumatic riveter at work that I plan to borrow. Works like a champ. Had to buy a compressor for the garage now to make that work, but I'm sure it will be handy for other tasks.

Harley818

08-06-2014, 05:42 PM

Don't know if this is helpful to any of you but I was looking for a list of the gaskets in the 2002 Subaru Engine Gasket Kit.
I finally tracked one down.
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gpaterson

08-07-2014, 03:28 AM

A bit after the fact but the name plate identifies the engine. Mine is a 2004 JDM WRX sedan and has a EJ205 engine.32254

Harley818

08-13-2014, 12:09 AM

Where is the name plate located? I don't see one on my engine, and I don't have the donor.

Also, if any subaru guy can help......
I am torquing my heads and following the manual.
It says the following:
Torque to 22 ft. lb in alpha sequence
Then torque to 55 ft. lb.
Then back off 180 degrees
back off another 180 degrees (at this point they are totally loose - no torque left)
Then torque A and B to 24 ft. lb
and torque C, D, E, F to 11 ft. lb
Then torque 90 degrees
Then torque 90 degrees further making sure not to go over total 180 degrees.
OK, now they are all torqued somewhere around 50 - 60 ft. lb.

why back them off till they are basically loose, then basically snug them up (11 ft. lb) and add 90 + 90?

Am I doing it correct?
Just want to confirm before I add all the rest......

Thanks

Mechie3

08-13-2014, 07:06 AM

That is correct. It makes sure the head is seated right, then relaxes it to ensure no bolts are binding.

Quiny

08-13-2014, 07:28 AM

I thought that was funny as well, but it makes sense I guess. I didn't like the final torque, I thought it felt too light. I may regret it but I went a little more.

Jaime

08-13-2014, 11:04 AM

I thought that was funny as well, but it makes sense I guess. I didn't like the final torque, I thought it felt too light. I may regret it but I went a little more.If you're reusing head bolts, it's possible that they are stretched. They get easier to turn as they neck down.

Harley818

08-16-2014, 12:37 AM

Gettin a few things together in the last few days.

Got another side of the suspension together. Went well with my son helping.
Also got a good portion of the engine together. Starting to look good.

325343253532536
Got the new TGV deletes installed..... Orings sealing looks good.
Timing belt and pullies are next.

Thinking I'm not going to do the parallel fuel rail mod. I read somewhere in Nasoic that you need to do a special tune for the differential due to distance to the opposite cylinders. Given that its not going to add any HP may as well stick to the stock set up.
Most guys think the fuel starving of one cylinder is false as well.

Harley818

09-10-2014, 04:44 PM

I'm almost finished my engine rebuild and came across these bolts on my workbench.
I used a template for the blocks bolting the block together, so I know these are not from the block.

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Not sure what they are for. Any of you Subaru guys know?
They are 110mm long with a fairly short thread section.
Thanks

TahoeTim

09-11-2014, 09:04 PM

transmission mounting bolts?

Mechie3

09-12-2014, 08:31 AM

That would be my guess as well though usually there are 2 long ones and 3 shorter ones.

Harley818

09-12-2014, 08:09 PM

Thanks Tahoe and Mechie3,
I think I found the answer.
I was really careful to label all the bolts i needed to re-use, but somehow, in the process, I left these unmarked ones on my bench.
I've been racking my brain for weeks about this and it came to me yesterday while on a "run"...... the rear diff!
Sure enough when I go back from my run I grabbed one of the bolts and it fit perfectly on the transmission end of the diff. 4 holes with thread protruding the exact amount.

Problem solved. The one extra bolt is probably a stray from something else.
I have the trans bolts labelled in a ziplok.

Harley

Harley818

09-12-2014, 08:28 PM

Been having a little trouble lately with uploading pictures but finally figured it out.

Here is a shot of the phenolic TGV's I bought from ZeroLift for those who are going to delete the TGV's. $180 for the pair including the orings.

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Here is the intake manifold installed with throttle valve.

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Harley818

10-06-2014, 03:12 PM

I went to bolt on the turbo which had been sitting on a shelf for a few months. Should have checked it before, but now found that there was some bearing play on the intake compressor side.
Found a company in LA area that does good work according to a few Subaru forums - SoCal Porting. They re going to port the turbo and check and replace any bearings etc that need it.
While its there they will be doing a ceramic coating on the exhaust side.
Hoping they do good work.

Also ordered Stopteck brakes and rotors from Autoanything but they sent me the wrong ones. I have an early 2002, and I got the kit for later 2002. Back to the border to package it up and send it back. Good that Washington state is so close to where I work.

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Buying stuff in the US saves some good cash to be use for other options..... like ceramic coating of my stock exhaust manifolds.
I hear the stock system is good for up to 300hp, and I'm worried about clearance below the frame with the other headers. that will be a future upgrade. Anyone find any unequal length headers that don't hang down past the frame?

Harley818

10-16-2014, 12:08 AM

Apparently my turbo is now ported, bearings checked out OK, and its on its way back. I'll post pictures of the porting if anyone's interested.

In the meantime, I've mounted the pedal box, then re-mounted it to straighten out the brake master cylinder tilt, and now installed the gas pedal.

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First try at mounting the brake master cylinder - I definitely didn't like the tilt. Why would they not fix this?

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OK, messed around with drilling new holes and now have it how I like it. I ended up drilling into the factory pedal box wall on an angle to create space for the new nut on the inside. This wall doesn't provide any structural function, its just in the way.

I didn't like the lack of travel of the top of the gas pedal, so like RMSepex, Wallace18, and others I mounted it directly to the firewall. I used the FFR supplied bracket, but cut it down for added rigidity, and added a couple extra rivets on the front side of the firewall.
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This is where FFR recommends locating the pedal - not much travel. Here is where I cut the FFR bracket.
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I riveted the FFR bracket to the top of the subaru bracket to maintain stiffness as well.
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Bob_n_Cincy

10-16-2014, 01:01 AM

First try at mounting the brake master cylinder - I definitely didn't like the tilt. Why would they not fix this?

Hi Harley,
I believe the reason for the tilt has to do with the manual brake option (which everybody is doing). When they added the higher hole in the brake pedal, they had to raise the master cylinder. Raising it level would make the top two pedal box bolts unusable because of the proximity to the master cylinder. see my picture.

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By raising it tilted they were able to keep 3 of the pedal box bolts.

I feel FFR made an effort to make the car bolt together with as little possible cutting, drilling and grinding.

I have 2 of the early chassis and lots of cutting and grinding. I look at the pictures of more recent chassis and I see lots of little improvement where I had fight through.

Part of the fun of building the car is changing things you want different.
That's what makes it YOUR car.
Enjoy
Bob

Harley818

10-16-2014, 12:50 PM

So the kit is set up for both manual and the brake booster...... I forgot that.
It was relatively easy to drill out a new hole in the plate on the Left side and in the Subaru pedal box to get the MC to sit straight.
I now have 4 button heads for the pedal box bolts, and my master cylinder is flat. :)
Little victories!

Harley818

10-19-2014, 11:57 PM

Good progress this weekend.

My son helped me out with getting the front passenger suspension installed, and I showed him how to torque most of the bolts. We are leaving the rest till its ready to set ride height. I think I saw a good description by Freds to set it on blocks at ride height and put 10psi in the tires. I'll try that later on.
3485134852

It was also a good opportunity to show him how to do the brakes, so we worked on the fronts, and he did the rears himself. We got the Stainless flexible lines hooked to the caliper, and then insnalled the wheels....
Almost roller...... just need the brake lines run.
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I added a rear firewall on the engine side just for additional safety and to help cut down the noise.
I had a panel of aircraft wing from an old project I was doing for MacDonnell Douglas about 25 years ago....so it finally came in handy. It is about 3/16 at the top, and thickens to 1/4 at the bottom.
The lower piece is about 1/4 in thick. This stuff is really "bullet proof" so it should be good.
I made it in two panels so they could be removed (down and out) if I need to do some work on the front of the engine. I'll be bolting them in.
Then I'll add outer panels that will be more permanent after I get all the lines run so I know how much room I need.
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I picked up my turbo on Friday. Sent it away to get ported and the exhaust side ceramic coated. They also checked out the compressor turbine. I was worried that it had a little play, but they checked it and said that was normal and is needed for oil lubrication. Hope they are right.
Here are before and after..... Done by SoCal Porting in California. Supposed to provide a little better breathing and slightly lower torque curve. Lets hope. Just read about it on the Subaru Forum (unibomber) and thought it couldn't hurt if it was in for checking bearings anyways.

Before
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After - ceramic coating
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Harley818

10-20-2014, 12:01 AM

After - porting of the turbo

I don't have a before of the outlet but you can see the inlet is much smoother.
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I decided to stick with my stock exhaust manifold and crossover... but I am sending them out for ceramic coating.
Wondering if I should also do an exhaust wrap as well? Is it advisable to do both to keep the heat down or won't the wrap be as effective with the ceramic coating. Apparently ceramic coating reduces heat by up to 30 - 40%, so I am thinking the wrap will also help.
Anyone have experience with this?34863

Rasmus

10-20-2014, 10:38 AM

I'd write, talk to the coating supplier. Some say you can wrap, some say not to, or that it's not necessary.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0112.jpg
Before you send out the headers

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0113.jpg
Cut the heat shield bosses off.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0111.jpg
It's a ***** to wrap around the bosses. And even if you don't wrap it weighs less and just looks better.

Harley818

10-21-2014, 09:12 PM

Funny you should mention this. i was thinking the same thing, then decided against it...... sent them out yesterday.
Now I'm thinking I should have done it anyways....lol

Harley818

11-03-2014, 02:12 AM

out of town for a bit, so back to work on the 818 this weekend.

Mounted the radiator. Had to make my own spacers to raise it up about 3/4 of an inch. Mounting bolts are tapped directly into the FFR support brackets.
Nice clearance for the lower radiator hose to rack bellows.
3732537326

Then made up some top mount brackets out of PVC material. Throughbolted into the FRR crosspiece.
37327

Harley818

11-03-2014, 02:25 AM

Installed the rivnuts for my rear firewall.
35351
35353

Took a page out of Rasmus book and decided the do the pans underneath at an early stage.
Got the front one in with cleco's, then did the underseat pan as well since I had it up on the stands.
I found it relatively easy if I had something under my hand to provide leverage to push while drilling (as opposed to pushing up with your whole arm)
Also I broke alot of the cheap harbour freight titanium coated bits. They would bend, wobble and break. Went and bought some other steel ones that lasted much longer. Much more satisfying.
35352

Fuel tank fill tube
35354

and interior aluminum - sealed with black sealant.... now waiting for the gator-hide to help sound deadening
3535535356

Started working on the coolant tube runs in the front.
35357

Harley818

11-03-2014, 02:34 AM

I had a bit of trouble with the side coolant tubes and the rubber sealing bushings.

I got the thick ones on, but once on, i couldn't get the cloth outer hose on. Tried forcing it and got it most of the way on, but it didn't look right..... looked too large diameter compared to everyone elses pictures.
And I couldn't get the FFR supplied hose clamps over the cloth outer hose. So I figured it wasn't right. Diameter with the thick bushing looks quite a bit thicker than where the flex tubing is.
3535835359

I took them apart (difficult to get off) and used the smaller thickness rubber bushings. They seemed to go on tight on the 1.5 OD aluminum tube, and were also tight when I pushed on the cloth hose ends over top. Now the hose clamps also worked (with not much to spare), and it looks like the pictures I have seen from other builds, and the manual.
What did everyone else do here.
I read Mechie's account, but it seemed to work for him with the thicker bushings????

Thanks

Jaime

11-03-2014, 08:29 AM

I used the thinner ones. I tried the thicker ones and couldn't get them on. I've go karted mine and had no leaks.

mikeb75

11-03-2014, 01:08 PM

Harley, I had the same trouble putting the thick adapters on the tubes; they're now sitting in my spare-parts bin. I'm not close to running the engine, so can't say anything about leaks; but I'm in the same boat as you.

Good to hear that Jamie's verified with just the thin adapters.

Bob_n_Cincy

11-03-2014, 01:40 PM

I They seemed to go on tight on the 1.5 OD aluminum tube, and were also tight when I pushed on the cloth hose ends over top.

My tubes, (early kits) used 1-1/4" od tubing. That might be why the thick adaptors don't work.
Bob

Mechie3

11-03-2014, 01:46 PM

I have chassis #15, so I likely have the small diameter tubes as well. It was super tight.

MrDude_1

11-03-2014, 02:53 PM

My tubes, (early kits) used 1-1/4" od tubing. That might be why the thick adaptors don't work.
Bob

I have chassis #15, so I likely have the small diameter tubes as well. It was super tight.

Why was there a design change from 1.25 OD tubing to 1.5?? Did the car need a bigger ID tubing for flow?

Harley818

11-04-2014, 02:37 AM

So here I am following Mechie's instructions, thinking..... he said it went on relatively easy!!! what am I doing wrong????..... they changed the tube diameter! lol
Worked out great with the smaller thickness bushings ....so heads up out there for those of you who are still coming.

Mechie's trick of using a bit of teflon spray helps them slip on really easily.

Mechie3

11-04-2014, 09:00 AM

Why was there a design change from 1.25 OD tubing to 1.5?? Did the car need a bigger ID tubing for flow?

No idea on official reasons, but I'm glad I found out about this. Might just have to buy my own tubing to step it up. Certainly the fewer times the ID changes size the less fluid energy losses you'll have.

MrDude_1

11-04-2014, 10:08 AM

No idea on official reasons, but I'm glad I found out about this. Might just have to buy my own tubing to step it up. Certainly the fewer times the ID changes size the less fluid energy losses you'll have.
I was having the opposite thought. Water is heavy, and the OEM subaru system didnt need an increase in capacity. I kind of want to run whatevers the smallest that works.

Bob_n_Cincy

11-04-2014, 10:48 AM

I was having the opposite thought. Water is heavy, and the OEM subaru system didnt need an increase in capacity. I kind of want to run whatevers the smallest that works.

The cooling system on a wrx has multiple paths to bring water back to the water pump.
1. oil cooler/warmer
2. throttle body warmer
3. heater core (bypass loop)
4. radiator: when thermostat is open
5. turbo cooler/ expansion tank

The amount of flow through each path is controlled by the restriction of that path.
Be careful if you add any restriction. You may not get enough flow through that path. This problem will not show up until heavy loads. (racing)
My 2 cents.
Bob

Mechie3

11-04-2014, 11:02 AM

flynntuna

11-04-2014, 01:58 PM

My thinking was long bob's lines of thinking. They changed for a reason. I'm not going to run out and buy new tubes ASAP, but will keep on eye on it (and others build/test threads). The OEM system wasn't designed to push water 10 feet forward and then 10 feet back with lots of extra bends. Just something to be aware of and keep tabs on and make a decision later. For all we know their supplier said "hey, we can supply these tubes for less $".

Does the water pump actually work harder? It's not pushing the water up hill, it just more water. It will take longer for the water to make the loop, but does that increase the back pressure to strain the WP? Engineers, help me out.

Mechie3

11-04-2014, 02:34 PM

Fluidic drag is a function of several things including:

Total flow length
Flow diameter
Surface finish
Pipe geometry
Expansion/contraction losses (think smooth tapered coupler vs sudden ID changes)

To help visualize it, imagine blowing through a very long small diameter straw. It gets tough. Now, blow through a very short straw of the same diameter and it's much easier.

The increased length puts more back pressure on the system. The pump can't actually work harder (it's output is limited by vane design and rpm) so the end result of more resistance is less flow.

Bob_n_Cincy

11-04-2014, 02:37 PM

MrDude_1

11-04-2014, 04:09 PM

To add to what Mechie3 said:

The pump is a centrifugal type. The spinning water gets thrown to the outside by centrifugal force. The faster it spins the higher the inlet to outlet pressure.
The bigger issue is which way the water decides to go.
If you had 2 paths the same length, same number of turns, and same diameter you would get 50-50 flow.
The 818 compared to the WRX has a less resistive heater core path and a more resistive radiator path. so it will have less flow to the radiator than a standard WRX
This is why FFR and beta builder testing is so important to verify sufficient flow to the radiator.
Bob
Electrical Engineer

Hopefully this isnt too off topic...Regarding the heater flow for a second. We all know the subaru heads need the heatercore path to flow in order to remove air and a deadhead area in the heads. But what amount of flow is needed? I know there is a similar area on the chevy LS v8s, and they use a very small hose to bleed that area. Could a restrictor or smaller line in the heatercore pathway help?

STiPWRD

11-04-2014, 05:33 PM

Don't put any restrictors in the heater core path or use a smaller ID hose than what FFR provided. This will change the coolant flow path and potentially overheat the driver side of your engine.

35416

Bob_n_Cincy

11-04-2014, 06:21 PM

The most important reason you need to keep the heater loop is to bring the hot water from the top of the engine to the sensor side of the thermostat. Without that loop, the thermostat will not open allowing cool radiator water into the engine.
Bob

Harley818

11-06-2014, 02:03 AM

Getting ready for engine install this week.

Installed the new Exedy OEM clutch, bolted the tranny on, and now ready for install.....
Release bearing set up and ready to go...
35468

Clutch and pressure plate....

3546935470

Ready to go.....
35471

Harley818

11-09-2014, 11:51 PM

My insulation material arrived, so I finished off the firewall and installed it.... ready for engine to install.
35556

Engine is in! My wife asked me to wait till she was home to install the engine.... so I had a helping hand. My son was away at a football game in Seattle, and I didn't want to wait.
3555735558

Looks like the engine is a bit tilted down in front, but I am waiting for my Type N transmission mount, then I will know final position. I have Type N motor mounts, but was going to use OEM transmission mount. After checking it out and seeing it is very soft, I decided to go Type N for the Trans as well after seeing some videos with quite a bit of movement.

3555935560

With the engine installed and shafts hooked up, I installed the 2WD conversion for the rear of the transmission.
35561

Harley818

11-10-2014, 12:05 AM

I haven't seen much in the way of documenting of the routing of the water lines ( I may have missed it), so I thought I would do so here.

With the side rigid tubes set up, I installed them as far forward as possible, but the rear rubber connector is just behind the frame. Then I ran the corrogated tubing under the fuel fill tube and up to the waterpump connection. It seemed to have the most natural curves this way.
35562355633556435565

For the front, I ran the line along the bottom of the frame, and tight around the steering, angling in to the bottom radiator connection. Seemed like it wanted to go that route. I used zip ties to secure to the frame.
355663556735568

For the top radiator connection, I ran straight across the fan down to the bottom of the frame, along the frame, and through the access to the outside rigid tube. (see previous picture). Ran zip ties to the fan housings and frame to hold it securely in place.
I plan to add rubber protection where ever the tubing gets close to contacting the frame, just for added vibration protection.

Still need to hook up the top motor connection to the rad.
I have to add the "wayne connection" to help burp it. I'm a bit nervous about drilling and tapping 1/8 NPT into such thin material !!! but I will probably do it anyways since others have gone there successfully.

Feels good after all that work to finally have the engine in place.
35569

Next task.... install the ceramic coated exhaust manifold and hook up to the turbo.
35570

Bob_n_Cincy

11-10-2014, 08:28 AM

Harley
Looking great:
Don't forget to remove the bearing race from the back of the transmission.
Maybe you already did, I cant tell from the picture for sure.
Bob
35581

Harley818

11-10-2014, 11:52 PM

Bob_n_Cincy

11-10-2014, 11:59 PM

Hi Bob,
Not sure I understand. Your arrow looks like its pointing to a casting plug. I removed the appropriate washers and bearing/spline, etc. when I replaced the 2WD conversion. Are you talking about something different?
I must have totally missed this.
There was a bearing race in the top hole by my arrow.
A lot have forgotten to remove it. It is not pressed in and just falls out after you hit a few bump.
Bob

You can see it better in this picture:35615

Harley818

11-11-2014, 11:39 PM

Perfect timing Bob.

I went back and sure enough, there is a bearing race there. Got it out.
Its hard to see, and I wouldn't have known it was there. Good catch.
3563835639

Installed my Type N transmission mount today. Glad there was someone discussing this on the forum. I had switched to Type N for engine mounts because my old ones were shot. The trans mount was still OK, but wow, what a difference. The Type N has about 2 - 3 times the rubber, and is MUCH stiffer.
35640

Thanks for the feedback guys on drilling out the manifold for the brass fitting (Wayne's mod). I drilled it out today and installed a 90 degree fitting - 1/8NPT to run up to the coolant tank.
35641356423564335644

Finished off the coolant routing up the Right side.
3564535646

Got my titanium wrap.... and wrapped the exhaust manifold.
35647

Harley818

11-11-2014, 11:40 PM

Started to lay out my brake lines routing and ran the emergency brake lines through the rear firewall, right next to the rear link.
35648

Frank818

11-12-2014, 07:48 AM

Started to lay out my brake lines routing and ran the emergency brake lines through the rear firewall, right next to the rear link.
35648

Interesting location. It doesn't kink too much over the fuel tank and back over the tunnel?
That's a location I would like to use, considering my engine configuration and the space it's going to use in the middle.

Harley818

11-12-2014, 01:57 PM

Its almost the most direct route and lays right on the fuel tank (if you use the FRR tank).

I am thinking that I may need to switch tanks. I'm 5'11" and with stock seats, I'm finding myself too close to the pedals.
My plan is to find a new seat first, and hope it gives me a couple more inches. If so, I'll keep the FFR tank, otherwise, I'll go Boyd to get the extra space.

Frank818

11-12-2014, 02:28 PM

Well I'll definitely take a shot on that one! Tnx for showing.

Harley818

11-20-2014, 10:50 PM

OK time for Brake lines.

I wanted to set up the proportional valve out of the way, so I picked a spot between the brake and Clutch master cylinders.
My goal is to keep the battery and open area in the front as uncluttered as possible as a possible mod later to add fuel tank in the front like Xusia and a couple others.
Or..... its an area to put some storage.

In any case, here's how it ended up.

35873358743587535876

Then routing down through the lower access area - you can also see the clutch line is not terminated yet. I am going to terminate and finish with a flex line from there.
3587735878

and routing down the side - and split to two sides. I ran the line under the motor along the frame behind the engine mount supports to the other side.
358793588035881

and to the back flex connection
35882

Harley818

11-20-2014, 10:55 PM

and to the other side
35912

Here is a picture of the master cylinder and proportional valve from above.
35913

I started to tie the lines down, but haven't finished yet......

In the meantime, got the ceramic coated, titanium tape, and silicone sprayed manifolds bolted in, and intercooler back on.
Looks like a mean BEAST!
35885

AZPete

11-21-2014, 11:24 AM

2 photos in your 2nd post not working.
Harley, if you haven't looked at your post in the Brake Line thread, see my photo of the alum panel at the left front before you add fluid.

Harley818

11-22-2014, 02:17 AM

Hi Pete,
Fixed the pictures.

I'll go check your picture of the front left..... but what are you saying i need to look out for?

Edit.... OK, I see what you are saying... need to look out for the aluminum wheel wells... and where they install right where I go through the access way.
Thanks for the heads up.

Harley818

11-28-2014, 09:32 PM

OK, been busy, just not posting for a week.
I guess you guys are all having your Turkey this week.

Ordered my wheels and tires. XXR530's and Maaxis Z1's from Online tires.com (same as americaswheels.com). Includes mounting, balancing and wheel lugs and locks.
Also ordered some seats, but I'll have to wait to see them before I report on them. Took a gamble, but the price was right.

Here are some pics of the installed exhaust with ceramic coating and titanium wrap with silicone spray.
3606936070

I thought some of you may be interested in clearance at the bottom. My STI pan and oil filter are the only items that are below the frame.
36071

Here is a shot of the throttle cable penetration through the firewall. The cable isn't long enough to go around. Has to go through and up the center tunnel and its barely long enough.
36072

I made a bracket to mount the coolant fill reservoir, but its not as nice as Mechies. No CNC....I had to use an angle grinder and bench grinder to get it to look decent.
36073

Harley818

11-28-2014, 09:44 PM

I'm making a custom shifter bracket for the end of the shifter rod.
Basically, I had a friend weld a solid steel block into the FFR bracket, then drill for the rod and securing pin, then I will drill and tap for the attachment ball.
This should provide an additional 1.5 to 2 inches of clearance to the back fiberglass (I hope - haven't put the body on yet).
Original bracket location, and new one.
360743607536076

And, last but not least, I took out the wiring again. I had put it away for a couple months after starting earlier. Decided to take out the ABS, cruise control and a couple other items I originally left in.
Dieting, dieting, dieting. Decided to just take the plunge and I'm cutting wires and lengthening or re-arranging where its a mess.
I just threw a piece of plywood on top of the rollbar so I could get the rough position as I'm dieting the harness. Seems to work quite well and i can work at waist height.
3607736078

I didn't like the routing of the cooling I had done first, so I decided to re-do it and move the side tubes more towards the front. I like it alot better now.
Old way,
36079
New look
360813608236083

Harley818

11-28-2014, 09:51 PM

I am almost ready to start it up.... goal is to fire it up before new years.....

Here are some overall progress shots.

36084360853608636087360883608936090360913609236093

bompus

11-28-2014, 10:18 PM

The axles going into the transmission do not look fully locked in. I could be wrong, but I'd give them a good shove in toward the transmission case on each side to see if they lock in any farther. Apart from that, looking good :)

RM1SepEx

11-28-2014, 10:59 PM

Your shifter mod is similar to mine, I cut off and flipped the stock bracket around 180 degrees, welded it back on. I then had to slide the cable brackets forward 1.5 inches (the transaxle bolt spacing, tons of room to the bodywork and screen. The FFR red car has the shifter bracket grinding vs the mesh

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10649-RM1Sepex-Build-Thread/page14 post 543

Harley818

11-29-2014, 12:00 AM

good catch Bompus. You guys are GOOD!. I don't have the pins in yet. My donor came with the shafts removed, so I need to buy new ones......

metalmaker12

11-29-2014, 03:29 PM

Looking nice man!!

Harley818

12-18-2014, 01:22 AM

Wow, life gets in the way and now my thread is down to page 3 of the Builds.....
Mexico for a week of R&R, then a busy work week, and in between......head down into the wiring......

Just to show you that not all is standing still, I received my ebay seats. I gambled on ebay.....Advertized as JDM Recaro, made in China I am sure. Quality is not bad, they look good, and the fit is great. Comes with slider mounts. $258 for the pair with red stitching. They fit well and feel perfect in the hips and side bolsters. Who knows how long they will last. I'm happy with them for the price and they will get me going. If I don't like them I can sell them and buy a better pair.

I laid out a piece of plywood above the rollbar, marked out where the routing is going, and am cutting/lengthening the wires a bundle at a time, only if needed to get where I want them to go. Looks like the computer will be above the fuel tank with the fuel pump controller, with the fuse panel and relays at the front of the tunnel near the dash or under the dash area.
I had to lengthen some of the front lights, one of the rad fans, and a few misc wires here and there if they got tight when I stretched everything to where I wanted.
I will have to get a longer battery cable as the firewall extends the required length.
I will also have to lengthen the alternator wires, and the wire from the relay panel to the battery.
Otherwise, most fits although a bit tight, it should be OK.

3658336584

Harley818

12-28-2014, 01:26 AM

OK, Santa came early...... New Wheels and tires.
XXR 530's.
Front 17 x 8.25 with Maaxis 235/40-17
Rear 18 x 8.75 with Maaxis 255/35-18

3688936890368913689236893

I am really happy with the look, the colour and the fit.

Here is how they fit with the rear clearances - about 1/8 in clearance to the trailing link. Lots of clearance everywhere else.
368943689536896

Harley818

12-28-2014, 01:45 AM

Here is the fit on the fronts:

There is about a 1/4 in clearance to the front corner of the firewall. Exactly what the calculations show......

3689936900369013690236903

Back to the wiring.....

I laid out the pattern of the tunnel and firewalls on a piece of plywood, then placed the plywood above the car resting on the rollbar and a support on the front.
I wanted to lay it all out, make the modifications to length where needed, then drop it in place.

Here is the rear layout. ECM & fuel controller in the center, split down the left side with 3 connectors to the engine, and 3 to the transmission/rear O2, and split to the right side for 3 connections to the intake airflow, front O2 and turbo temp sensor (turbo temp sensor? can't remember what this one is for). That leaves one set of connections for the rear lights. I rolled up the wires and bagged them so they would be easy to keep track of.
3690436905

Then a couple relays that can go anywhere located on the left side:
36906

Front of the harness separated into instrument cluster, combination switch, ignition switch on the left side, with fuse block and relays on the right side.
Front lights and rad fan wires are lengthed bagged and located at the front.
3690736908

I pulled the plywood out to the side and then carefully moved the harness down into the car. Worked like a charm.
Now I have started to pull the wires into position hook them up, and figuring out final position and mounting for the relays, fuse blocks etc.

Harley818

12-28-2014, 01:57 AM

This give you the view of what the front harness looks like all spread out.
36909

I'll post more pictures of the hook-ups and routing.
Looks like a couple more days off before new years......

Frank818

12-28-2014, 06:38 PM

I like the purple lug nuts! Gives a little touch of distinction, well thought.

Harley818

01-05-2015, 01:14 AM

Update on wiring.

I finished the wiring to the engine and routed the wires through the firewall to the central tunnel. Looks like lots of room now that I have it organized.
I still have to finish the wiring to the back lights, but I'm not worried about that.
I also have to run the main battery/starter wire.
I bolted the ECM to the firewall, and will also bolt the fuel pump controller.
3724937250

I also have the wiring to the front pretty much organized. I'm going to locate the fusebox just near the top of the tunnel at the front, and the relay panel just below it. I'll add an access panel so I can reach it easily. I'm building a mount for them, but this is what it looks like now.
3725137252

I was worried how I would fit in the shifter, so I worked on that as well.

I did the longislandwrx mod, lowering it into the tunnel.
I used long bolts up from the bottom and coupler nuts to adjust the height to where I wanted it, then used shorter bolts with coupler nuts from the top.
So I used 3/8 button head bolts x 3.5 in long with washers and a coupler nut to secure it to the bottom of the FFR shifter.
Then I added coupler nuts to the top of the 3.5 in bolts, threading them on only 1/2 way.
I drilled through the tunnel steel tube so that I could use 3/8 x 1 inch long socket head cap screws recessed in from the top and into the top of the coupler nuts.
Its really secure and I can adjust it to any height I want by just cutting the bolts shorter if I wanted. I wanted flexibility to ensure I had enough clearance for the wiring.
In fact, I need to adjust it up a bit at the front still so it is level.
As it is, its OK and the top of the shifter is about 1 inch above tunnel height.
Its located as far back as the tunnel vertical tubes will allow - and its position is great for my shift position.

37253372543725537257

Harley818

01-18-2015, 08:47 PM

First Start!!!!

Filled up the tranny (3.8 liters of uncle scotty's mix), added the coolant (2.5 gals so far), and checked everything over.
No leaks so far.

Filled the gastank with about 25 liters of gas hoping it wouldn't leak. Held my breath and it was OK.

Hooked up the battery, turned it on..... instrument panel came one but not start.
First try..... clutch pedal not grounded.
Second try...... ECM and fuel pump/controller not grounded
Third try..... Started!!!!!
Awesome!

But..... fuel leaking all over the top of the tank.....these damn white connectors are leaking.....I tried replacing with another one.... just don't seal on the FFR supplied pump inlet/outlet bracket.

I tried taking the white connector off and tightening the clamp, but it doesn't have a decent barb on the fitting, so it still doesn't seal.
What are the rest of you doing? I think I'll abandon it...... anyone got better ideas.

svanlare

01-19-2015, 01:33 AM

Congrats on the start, that is a huge accomplishment! I have no idea what to suggest about the fuel lines, not that far along yet and haven't yet researched fuel options.

Harley818

01-19-2015, 01:42 AM

Yah, when you spend so much time organizing, cleaning, replacing, and taking things apart, taking the engine down to the last bolt, and then putting it all back together.... getting it ready...... anticipating whether it will start...... and it doesn't start.......then you go into diagnostic mode... what could it be... electric, fuel, etc...... work on it a bit more..... and then it fires......I'm still on a high!!!!

My wife just walked in and says the garage smells like gas!...... I don't care!. It started. I'll deal with that tomorrow!

BryceJ

01-19-2015, 02:01 AM

Congratulation on your first start! Great milestone.

Tamra

01-19-2015, 07:35 AM

Congrats on the first start! I know when we started ours, we could not decide whether it was a feeling of relief or excitement or both.

Ours did not leak (yet - knock on wood), so no advice here. Our fuel line were pretty tight over them (we did not use the FFR fuel line - it seemed too big.) Plus, the white FFR fitting on our fuel filter did not seem to fit right, so we did not use it there. We used some smaller line that we already had plus clamps, and it seemed to fit snug.

Hindsight

01-19-2015, 10:31 AM

Congrats on the milestone!

Frank818

01-19-2015, 01:16 PM

But..... fuel leaking all over the top of the tank.....these damn white connectors are leaking.....I tried replacing with another one.... just don't seal on the FFR supplied pump inlet/outlet bracket.

I tried taking the white connector off and tightening the clamp, but it doesn't have a decent barb on the fitting, so it still doesn't seal.
What are the rest of you doing? I think I'll abandon it...... anyone got better ideas.

Congrats on the start! Let's keep it living. :)

About that fuel leak, maybe my posts towards the end of my thread may give you ideas.

When you say "white connectors", do you mean leaking around the chrome cover or just the connector itself?
Sorry if there are pix, I don't see them from work.

xxguitarist

01-19-2015, 02:05 PM

Here's what we used for fuel line, it was purchased for the semi-parallel mod that we did, but I think it's going from the tank to the filter too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110986661871

Gates 5/16" EFI hose. Note that the Injection stuff is pressure rated.

Harley818

01-19-2015, 06:40 PM

I was in a hurry last night so I wasn't clear on what leaked.

The gas is squirting out between the white FFR supplied quick connect and the chrome fuel tube that extends up from the FFR supplied fuel pump housing.
Hose connection to white quick connect is good.

Maybe I'll have to do what Tamra says. just buy a smaller diameter fuel line with good clamps over the chrome fuel line.

xxguitarist

01-19-2015, 07:06 PM

Ah. Tamra and I did use the white connectors on the tank end. We thought maybe it was leaking hose to white fitting. We haven't had any leaks from the fitting to the chrome fuel supply line (though I was surprised that it sealed, for how easily it installed)

You could try some Parker O-lube, and inspect if you've damaged the o-ring inside.

We didn't use the white connectors on the fuel filter end.

Frank818

01-20-2015, 05:27 PM

Harley to answer both here and what you posted on my thread, I VERY SURPRISINGLY did not have any leak, not even vapor leak, on both sides of the white QC fitting. And all good on the black one as well. They did not seem to fit tight so I was expecting a huge blow up when I started the pump, but no, nothing and it ran for a good 10-12mins totalling the 2-3 times I used it. I suspect you just got a defect part. I kept FFR hoses.

Harley818

01-20-2015, 10:14 PM

Gas squirting out from between the white connector and the chrome outlet fuel line.??????
I tried two different white FFR connectors and they both leak when pressurized.

Should I try the 3rd white connector I received in my kit from FFR??? I guess I have it, may as well if you guys are all OK.
Just might end up with gas all over my tank again.........
I'll let you know what happens.

Harley818

01-20-2015, 10:27 PM

xxguitarist

01-21-2015, 07:47 AM

xxguitarist,

First, guitar is my favorite instrument when I listen to music and I have lots of music that my wife makes me listen to in the car. "Car music" she calls it. The more wailing the better. So you have my vote there for your name.

Second. I was interested in a parallel fuel line mod earlier on this year, but abandoned it when I couldn't find good reliable info. I'm not a subaru guy (although I just re-built my 2.0 with most mods from the simplifying the EJ thread from Longislandwrx and it started first try). What did you do and can you share it?

Third. I used the white connector on the tank only since that was FFR supplied, but used the fuel line with hose clamp connections elsewhere and on fuel filter like you did.

Last. I just clued into the fact that you and Tamra are both racing miatas..... but one is coming and one is going... which is which? Who is coming, who is going? lol
I see now from Tamras signature that you are building a car together.

Harley,
I wish I played more still. Been busy with things, building a car and whatnot :-)

We used the above mentioned fuel hose to do ours, and added a fuel pressure regulator adapter, and an OEM STi FPR.
The standard wrx setup has fuel flow in by one injector, past the next, through the hardlines, past the next, past the last, and out through the FPR to return to the tank.
What we did was throw away the hardlines, run the fuel from the pump to a brass T, to both OEM wrx fuel rails, past one injector on each side, then past the next on each side, then out of the rails (use adapter on one side), up to a T, through the STi FPR, and on to the return.

The idea is to reduce the chance of uneven pressure at the injectors, from the first to the last. Ours is the much less expensive way to do it.

Is your gas tank chrome fitting nice and round, and is the white connector going on, past the "bump" of a lip back a bit? Not sure why it's acting up for you.

Yep! That's Frog, our happy fun easy ES car. I should probably add a signature to reduce confusion!

Harley818

01-23-2015, 08:33 PM

thanks Andrew, I'll take another look at it tomorrow.
I used the stock fuel pressure regulator (the little black round pot) in the return line after the injectors.
White connector slides on nice, i can feel the extra drag from the orings, then it goes past the bump and holds in place.
I originally thought it was kind of loose, but the black one is the same and it seals fine.
I tried two different white connectors..... maybe its the chrome fuel pump tube.

Harley818

01-25-2015, 03:03 AM

OK, looked at it again. the fuel pump chrome pipe looks good - no dents or irregularities. tried a 3rd white connector..... leaks again.
Then tried with just the 5/16 fuel line clamped on the chrome pipe with two clamps ... still leaks.

I replaced the subaru fuel pump with a new walbro fuel pump. could it be producing too much pressure? or could the black pressure regulator be faulty and therefore producing too much pressure in the line?

Scargo

01-25-2015, 05:44 PM

You mentioned "(the little black round pot)". You may be mistaking a fuel pressure damper for the fuel regulator.
Is this what you think is a regulator? 38068
If so, you will have big pressure! That could be causing your leaks.

xxguitarist

01-25-2015, 07:46 PM

Yep, a FPR has 3 hose fittings- In, out, and vac source

Harley818

01-25-2015, 09:24 PM

OK Scargo and Andrew, Thanks for the help.
I guess i am running with a fuel pressure damper in-line back to the tank.

I think if I recall correctly, the 2002 has the fuel pressure regulator right in the hard lines arrangement before it leaves the manifold.
Then I go through a fuel pressure damper, and back to the tank.

Today I found my leak. The chrome fitting for the fuel pump that exits the tank was nice and smooth all around.
I bought some new fuel line - 1/4 in diameter injector line. After connecting it and seeing it still leak, I looked with a magnifying glass while it was leaking.
After watching really closely, i could see the fuel coming out of a pinhole right on the chrome fitting where it was formed for the ridge that is meant to hold the quick disconnect on.
38092
Must have created the hole when they formed the tube. Thats why all my new hoses and the FFR fitting leaked...... the leak was on the pump side of the ridge.

Anyways, I cut it off with a hacksaw, sanded it and put on the 5/16 fuel line. No leaks now!!!
38093

I ran the engine till the temp got up to the 2/3 point on the temp guage. Fans didn't come on, and only the radiator line on the passenger side got hot. I thought that with Waynes mod on my water outlet that it would have bled all through. I turned it off and noticed that the water had all been sucked out of the reservoir, and the water in the engine was hot-hot...
Hopefully not to hot to do anything to the head gaskets!!
Once it cools I'll check water levels. So far I have put in 2.5 4 liter jugs of premixed subaru coolant (10 liters so far)

metalmaker12

01-25-2015, 10:29 PM

TouchStone

01-25-2015, 10:47 PM

Is that an aftermarket intake manifold or is it painted?

Harley818

01-26-2015, 01:30 AM

what radiator do you have, my system took over 3 gallons.
Fill degas tank and leave cover off it. Un mount radiator mounts leaving all lines and cap installed and pick up higher than degas tank. Coolant should bubble out of degas tank.

Than use the yellow funnel until thermo opens with degas tank as highest point to further bleed system and you should be good to go bro . Don't keep the funnel on once thermo opens or you will suck in air. Relax, You should be fine as long as temps did not get past 250 .2/3 is like 230 range so you should be ok. It you wanna talk more pm me and I can help ya out.

Ps fan should have come on. I say fan because the right one is the radiator fan, the left is a/c system. You can tune to run both but let's get yours running first. To test if fan is wired correctly put car in test mode with key on and two green test connectors hooked up. Fan should cycle.

Thanks Chris. I'll try it in the next couple days.
Its a Mishimoto rad. I guess I have more to go still - I'm not at 3 gal yet.
I think I need to check the grounds for the fan circuit. When I was doing the wiring diet, I cut all the grounds to make it easier and I haven't checked those lines yet....90% sure they need gnd hooked up. I am surprized the thermostat didn't open though. Waterpump and thermostat are new.

Touchstone...... its a stock intake, but I sandblasted it and painted it. I also used Zerolift TGV deletes in black phenolic.

metalmaker12

01-26-2015, 07:36 AM

It did not open because you prob have a large air pocket prior to the thermo. You"ll get it.

Scargo

01-26-2015, 09:26 AM

I think you said that you are just running the damper, true? If so I am very concerned about two things. You don't have a regulator and your fuel pressure may be way too high to be safe. You have more of a potential of a leak occurring or even something blowing.
The other is that now you have cut off the ridge on the fuel line. While you do have two clamps, and it may never be an issue, the hose could slide right off. While this was not a fuel line, I give you an example of what can occur. I shortened one of my 2" FMIC pipes and the hose kept blowing off. Now, mind you that this is only 22 pounds of boost, but no matter what I tried (like two clamps) I could not keep the rubber from sliding off. This, because the rolled bead was missing.

xxguitarist

01-26-2015, 10:41 AM

Glyn, The 02 has a FPR built into the fuel rail, so it's probably still there.

The lack of the retaining bead would worry me a little also on the fuel line. FFR ought to send you a new one if you explain the situation?

RM1SepEx

01-26-2015, 03:23 PM

Scargo, my friend works with aluminum a bunch, key trick:

make a special tool, he uses cheap vice grip pliers, modify the jaws, cut in a notch in one jaw and build up the jaw opposing it, clamp them tight and you can rotate around the pipe and make 3 or 4 nice, consistent bumps that work just like the beaded edge to hold on the tubing.

Harley818

01-27-2015, 12:36 AM

Bob_n_Cincy

01-27-2015, 04:46 AM

Thanks for the input guys
Scargo- there is a fuel reg on the 02 fuel rails.
I'll talk to FFR about a replacement. I don't want a fuel problem.
In the meantime I'll try RM's suggestion but I suspect the tube is too small.
Harley
Did you see my suggestion here
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16857-Gas-line-leak-Faulty-Fuel-line-on-FFR-supplied-pump-bracket&p=186508&viewfull=1#post186508

RM1SepEx

01-27-2015, 06:02 AM

Harley, that tip will work for stuff down to the size of the coolant tubes, you can also just lay down some "bumps" with a Mig or Tig to give the same effect as a beaded end. Craig (Mechie) made a smaller bead roller die to do his!

Scargo

01-27-2015, 06:34 AM

A flaring tool might be a start. Then, with the tube well-supported, use an inverse tool with a concave taper to knock the edge back down. You dont need much to stop the clamp from sliding.
Sorry about the false alarm about the fuel pump regulator. I believe, in some Subarus, the FPR is near the tank. Allz I know is when I put in a Walbro, and was heading for 300 WHP, EFI Logics (our best known local shop and East Coast dynotuner) said to put in a good FPR... so I did. They set it for 37 PSI and it's been perfect all the way up to ID1000cc injectors and 400 WHP. I also run a Grimmspeed BCS (boost control solenoid).

Harley818

01-28-2015, 02:46 AM

Harley818

01-28-2015, 03:12 AM

Made a little progress today.
Mounted my fuel filter. Made the bracket out of 3/4 in PVC.
3815838159

I made a similar one for the catch cans that I will mount on the opposite side by the air intake. Pictures when its mounted.

I finished my firewall today after all the electrical and gas lines were run through to the engine area.
38160

And.... continuing the wiring saga..... I mounted my fuse block and relay panel up front. Right at the front of the tunnel
38161
Just roughed in place, but this will be behind a panel for protection but access when needed.

Harley818

02-10-2015, 01:05 AM

Time for an update.
Been picking away at a few things.
Got my catch cans mounted and ready to finalize the hoses. Mounted the wastegate solonoid on the firewall as well.
one for the valve cover breathers.... through the stock intercooler hardlines, through the catch can #1 and to the intake.
Second one from the crankcase vent to the catchcan #2 and to the intake.
38626

Still chipping away at the wiring. I'm hesitant to finalize and close it all off till I finish and test it. Otherwise I'll have to open it up again......
Heres the bin of dieted wiring...... one whole rubbermaid. Probably half the wiring.
I just dieted one system at a time, making sure I cut out the right wires.... cutting and re-connecting the others as required. So far so good.
38627

Here is my final layout above the fuel tank.
Airflow sensor, first O2 sensor, right e-brake cable and turbo wastegate solonoid on the passenger side through the firewall.
38628
3 engine connectors, Starter power wires, and rear lights wiring out the drivers side with the ebrake cable.
You can also see the ECM, fuel controller and a couple relays mounted on the firewall. Everything else is mounted at the front of the shifter tunnel.
3862938630

I also finished running the wires to the front rad fans and lighting.... more pics tomorrow.

wallace18

02-10-2015, 08:10 AM

Looks good! You may want to try test fitting the aluminum pieces that go on top of the chassis for the hump area. In one picture your catch cans look to me to be too close for these to fit. Worth checking out now instead of finding out later IMO. Here is a pic from the K818S that shows the parts I mean.
38631

Harley818

02-16-2015, 01:59 AM

Thanks for the heads up Wallace.
Looks like it will directly interfere..... so I'll just have to mount it on the side or a bit lower.

Harley818

03-02-2015, 12:20 AM

Trying to get the coolant burped.
Did what metalmaker said and unbolted the radiator and stood it up vertical, filled it till it was full, and coming out the coolant tank on the engine. Then I started it up and let it run.

slowly heated up the radiator lines, then the rad till it was too hot to touch, then lines heated up back to the engine. Coolant temp was constant at just less than halfway up the dash gauge. let it run a little longer hoping the fans would come one.......coolant expanded to the top of the overflow tank, but temps remaining constant. I shut it off.
When should the radiator fans come on??

Checked the coolant overflow tank in the morning and it was completely empty.
I guess I'll try again.

When should the fans come on?

Tamra

03-02-2015, 07:56 AM

The fans kick on at a little over 200 degrees

Bob_n_Cincy

03-02-2015, 11:12 AM

I like Tama's simple answer. I would like it to be able to program when the fan come on. I wonder if open-source or Accesport can do that.
This is the complicated answer out of the 06 Mechanism and function manual.
39251

Harley818

03-03-2015, 12:30 AM

I am planning gauges but haven't bought them yet.
I guess I'll have to get them soon.
Does the ACCESSPORT show temps in degrees?

Scargo

03-03-2015, 05:54 AM

Yes, and you can data log. If you can afford them I think the SPA dual digital lit readout gauges (http://www.spatechnique.com/product_pages/page.cfm?cat=19) are the cat's meow. They are programmable to to perform certain functions, too. They also have analog.
• SELECTABLE BACKLIGHT COLOUR AND BRIGHTNESS• HIGH RESOLUTION MODE, 0.1 PSI, 0.1 DEGREE ETC.• PROGAMMABLE BUTTON OPTION, RECALL+MENU ETC• MAXIMUM VALUES STORED AND RECALLED FROM MEMORY.• INDEPENDENT EXTERNAL & INTERNAL WARNING ALARMS• EXTERNAL WARNINGS FOR LARGE LED’S OR CONTROL RELAYS• PROGRAMMABLE LOW BATTERY WARNING• SELECTABLE AVERAGING FOR PRESSURE.• SELECTABLE UNITS FOR PRESSURE AND TEMPERATURE• SOLID STAINLESS PRESSURE SENSORS MEASURE PRESSURE AND VACUUM.• SPLASH PROOF SENSOR CONNECTORS• EXTENDED TEMPERATURE RANGE FOR HOT AND COLD CONDITIONS• THERMOCOUPLE OPTIONS AVAILABLE
I sent you a PM.

Harley818

03-12-2015, 12:16 AM

Things are moving forward, but I'm playing catchup.
Applied the Rhino-liner to the interior for sound deadening.
Building some seat mounting brackets so I can retain my 1 in front to back seat adjustment! lol
Figuring out how to mount my wagon seat belts without bolting through the firewall and undoing them everytime I want access.
Continueing the start/warm-up/check coolant level cycle to make sure its burped properly.
This weekend I'll see if I can hook up the Cobb AP and get some real coolant temp to see why my fans don't come on. Supposedly when I hook it up it will cycle the fans, so maybe that will tell me if I have a problem.
Been looking at gauges......I like the options from Prosport. Any other suggestions I should look at?
I'm thinking similar to Andrew and Tamra...... oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, Boost, and maybe A/F ratio. Not sure about intake temps.... maybe one after the turbo. I haven't made the decision yet whether to go AWIC or not.

Harley818

03-15-2015, 12:49 AM

Had a productive day today.

Got the seat brackets mounted and seats ready to bolt in.
Now working on placement of seatbelts. I think I'll put the wagon retractor bolted inside behind the firewall. The FFR location actually interferes with my seat when reclined to my driving position.
I'm going to bolt it to the lower frame cross bar that the upper trailing link bolts to.

Hooked up my Accessport V3, downloaded Stage 1, and fired up the engine.
I had it set up to monitor coolant temps so I could do the final checkout of the rad and fans.
It heated up to about 178 degrees, then stayed constant until the heat made its way to the front and back the other side to the engine. Then it climbed to 205/206F when the fans kicked in. Both came on and rapidly cooled the temp to 178/180F when they shut off again (took like 20-30 seconds).
So now its all burped and working as planned.

While I was running the engine, I also checked the A/F ratio.... steady around 14.5 - 15.
With the Stage 1 downloaded and installed, the engine ran much smoother than previously.
I can probably go to Stage II, but I think I'll just leave it as is till I get it tuned/dyno'd.
Feeling much better now with the way it runs with the Stage I flash.

Scargo

03-15-2015, 06:23 AM

With the Cobb intake, TGVs deleted, cat removed and decked heads you needed a re-tune. Don't let it slip your mind that you have stock pistons. I never saw anything in your posts that definitely said that you honed the cylinders or gapped the rings. That worries me. Take it easy for a while. ;)

Harley818

03-15-2015, 02:40 PM

Hi Scargo,
Thanks for the comments.

I am going to get it tuned at Rocket Rally. They specialize in subaru rally cars here in Squamish. They have a pretty good reputation. Hopefully line something up in the next 3-4 weeks.

When I rebuilt the engine I did have the cylinders honed and checked the gap on the new rings. They were all within tolerance. I also checked the ring to groove clearances and they were good.
The one thing I probably should have done that I didn't was to check the clearances on the main bearings and connecting rods...... Now that I'm watching Rasmus and Sponagule be so careful, I'm thinking I should have....
Next time. I'm not planning to track it, so maybe I'm OK. And I will take it easy for a while before I flog it.

Scargo

03-15-2015, 03:24 PM

Great! So, my misunderstanding of that part of the build. Carry on... Good luck.

Harley818

03-15-2015, 09:46 PM

Finished installing seat belts.
Mounted them behind the firewall, with a slot for the belting.
396493965039651
Did the child lock delete on the seat belt mechanism.

Heres a pic of my interior now.
console in place, ready for seats to be bolted in.
The Cobb Accessport is an awesome feature. You can check up on any of the sensors already on the engine using the gauge mode or data aquisition.
3965239653

Harley818

03-15-2015, 09:47 PM

wow, my pics all rotated when I uploaded them..... never happened before..... Dave Hodgins upgrade???

Try it again.....
3978739788397893979039791

This is the slot I cut for the seatbelt
39794

Here is the child lock delete for my 2002 wagon. Slightly different than someone posted before but same technique.
I removed the lower plastic pawl shaped like a J.
3979239793

Harley818

03-22-2015, 11:53 PM

Got started on the body yesterday!
397813978239783
397843978539786

Looking like a car!

Harley818

03-23-2015, 12:10 AM

Details from my seats intall.

I drilled and tapped 4 button heads up from underneath the pan, then located my brackets on them, with nuts on from above.
Then bolted the seats in.
3979739798
397993980039801

Forgot I didn't show a picture of my seatbelt attachment under the firewall.

3979539796

tebriel

03-23-2015, 11:03 AM

Looking great!

Frank818

03-24-2015, 06:25 PM

What body issues you ran into so far?

Harley818

03-24-2015, 07:30 PM

Body issues?.......Well, for starters, I followed the manual and lined it up to the 5/8 in mark on the front.
Then I went and looked at where the wheel was centered on the rear quarter panel.
The wheel looked like it was slightly forward from the center of the wheelwell. This is a pet peeve of mine when I look at the Factory Five cars...... looks like the wheels aren't centered inthe wheelwells.
So I adjusted the panel until the wheel was centered.
Then I thought that could be the wrong move as the wheel position is determined by the trailing link. I have the adjustable trailing links, which have quite a bit of adjustment front to back.
RMSEPex said a key measurement is 8 inches from the frame to the fiberglass at the back of the opening for the door.
I measured mine, and with the rear side sail all the way to the front, I measured 8 inches. (drop from 5/8" to zero - right flush with the front). so this sounds like it is set up correctly.
However, I decided to go look at a couple threads and started with Aloha818, who did a lot of detail pictures and description on the process. I think I have a good idea of what I need to do.

I plan to resume with the following:
- determine the stock trailing arm length and set it correctly to start.
- bolt the bumper to the side sails, and get the joint fit correct
- set the trunk and top hump panels in place and move the whole assembly to get the best fit for the rollbar-hump fit, trunk to side sail joint alignments, and rear wheel centering as best as possible.
- Then clamp it in place to hold it while I set up the front.
- start on the front by bolting the side fenders to the front bumper to get good joint fit.
- fit the front assembly to the car and placement at the front of the rear side sails.
- place the front hood and see how well it fits. Aloha had to make a lot of adjustment at the front leading edge to the bumper, and I believe he said he had to make cuts in the side fenders to enable him to get the right hood gaps at the fender.
- make any trim cuts to get it to fit & clamp it in place.
- try to get the doors to fit.
- adjust, adjust, adjust to get it to fit.
..........hoping for the best.

anyone have the correct length for the stock trailing arms center to center?

Frank818

03-25-2015, 06:14 AM

Scargo

03-25-2015, 08:28 AM

I think mine ended up at 7/8". At one time I had everything fitted. Could be that in trying to square up the rear axle and lateral links as best I could that I moved my rear wheel center point back. I did look at the centering of the wheels in the wheel wells and "looks" as well when I did it, but I focused more on centering towards eliminating rubbing at the max top of bump travel.

tebriel

03-25-2015, 09:53 AM

Then I went and looked at where the wheel was centered on the rear quarter panel.
The wheel looked like it was slightly forward from the center of the wheelwell. This is a pet peeve of mine when I look at the Factory Five cars...... looks like the wheels aren't centered inthe wheelwells.
?

Ive noticed that many of them look this way and have wondered why. It's kind of goofy looking and one of the few visual flaws I've noticed in the design. But is it design, or is it a fitment issue?

RM1SepEx

03-25-2015, 10:52 AM

Tnx for those details!

Mind detailing a little on the 8" measurement? Which part of the fiberglass you measure it from? Is that to have the correct width of the fender panels, where the coolant lines come back into the engine bay?

inside of the 1 1/2 tube to the edge of the fiberglass tip of the door opening, upon more alignment of my new panels and other's measurements from 7 3/4 to 8 inches is typical. It is an easy way to verify that both sides are at the same distance. My rear clip is now in place and to get the door latch brackets to sit flush I ended up with 7 7/8 on this second set of panels, the first set was at 8 inches... And yes there is a bit of variation in all of our builds.

Farther back gives better roll bar fitment though pushing too far back is limited by the latch brackets and the nose, fenders, hood, windshield interface. My front lower sail panels are a bit more than 5/8 back from the corner to get the 7 7/8 measurement. I'd love more roll bar room but can't go farther on the door latch brackets, they run out of adjustment

Scargo

04-03-2015, 12:58 PM

Don't mind me; I'm building an unconventional R, but I'd say throw numbers out and do what looks good and lets everything function. The body is just that. A skin that can be massaged and moved around a bit. Even pushed and shoved a bit. I suspect the sequence of assembly makes a difference. Fitting hinges/doors to body and hood to fenders, etc... On mine I cut the door hinge mounts off, but I used spacers and nailed down where the doors are in relation to the sails. Same with hood, fenders and nose. Basically, to fit and look good, they fit together only one way (+/- 1/8" "or so"). Get all your trimming on the hood lip and engine covers done* so they all fit flush to the fenders. Lots of duck tape and clamps and viola, a workable solution. It'll never be perfect.
I forgot cardboard. You may be doing that but I didn't see spacing/shimming cardboard in the pics. Use it to maintain the standard gap between parts. That and lots of duct tape.:)
* refers to the appx. 1/2" I took off the down-turned lips on the hood to get it to fit flush, height-wise. Makes some difference in how the relationship of the fenders and hood align.

Harley818

04-05-2015, 12:34 AM

OK, a bit of an update on the body fitting and I'm looking for some advice.....

I've read a few threads like RMSepex, Metalmakers, mechie, Aloha.....etc. lots of good info.

After playing with the back and front and having a few fitment issues with lots of questions......I started over with this:
- bolted the rear bumper together, and got the alignment set between the sides and the bumper.
- aligned the side sails to the starting position of 5/8 in back from the front frame corner.
- bolted the front sides to the front bumper, off the car - as someone suggested, and aligned it to the corners where the hood connects - then lifted it on.
- I trimmed about 1 inch deep to clear the radiator support.

Result:
-the back of the front sides are about 1 1/2 inches from aligning to the triangle on the front of the side sails.
-the back corners of the hood actually hits the corners of the windshield
- if I align the front of the hood flush with the front of the bumper, it doesn't fit in between the bumper hood opening. I need about another 1/4 inch. The angle of the hood edge is opposite to the angle of the bumper at both sides.

More Adjustments:
- So I moved the rear side sails forward right to the front corner of the frame. The rear hood still fits OK on the rollbar, but now the glass on the bottom of the bumper hits the rear transmission mount. Just have to cut out a bit of glass. Otherwise the rear fits OK.
- I also cut the fiberglass trim at the bottom of the windshield so that the corner of the hood would clear the corners.
- now the front sides are about 1/2 in from landing on the front of the rear side sails at the "triangle mark". Hood seems to fit pretty well except for the front is still too narrow.
I can pull the front and side panels back a bit more, but then the rear hood corners will interfere with the windshield supports.

Questions:
- anyone else have this?
- seems like I have the back as far forward as it will go, and the front as far back as it will go.
- Should I keep going? I can move the back forward a bit more, and the front back a bit more. I only need another 1/2 inch between the two. i would probably just move the front back more.
- do most people put it together with the windshield in place or without the windshield?

Any advice would be helpful before I go crazy with the zip disc.
Harley

Front alignment
4025640257402584025940260

Rear alignment
40261402624026340264

RM1SepEx

04-05-2015, 07:29 AM

Take off the hood, clearance the returns on the hood a bit

show us how the hood fits vs the lower radiator support, most needed a piece of angle to bridge the gaps in both vertical and horizontal directions

I wish my side sail to engine cover fit as well as yours

I'm guessing the nose needs to go back more. I bolted the rear lower fenders first and pushed toe nose back until I could get it aligned and I trimmed the top radiator support pads to allow moving it around to get everything squared up. 1/16 off at the nose leaves like a 1/2 inch gap at a point 5 feet away!

Every once in a while I call a friend and vent, or have him come over (yesterday with my windshield position) and have a beer and verify my process and approach. you are not really that far away... more brains focused on it is important, fixing an area removed is a PITA

wallace18

04-05-2015, 10:09 AM

I mounted the sides and rear bumper first as in the manual. Then the rear hoods, windshield, doors then the front end, fenders and finally front hood. While I had to trim the front hood in the windshield area every thing fit pretty good as is. Since I built 2 of these it seems to have worked for me both times. If the sides are not correct the rest will be off some. The rear hood will have to be trimmed to fit the roll bar. Heck it hits when they duct tape it for delivery. Just remember there will always be cutting and fitting on these kit cars. They are not like an AMT model car for sure. LOL.

Harley818

04-05-2015, 07:56 PM

Thanks Dan and Wallace,
Sounds like I'm on the right path..... and there are no quick fixes.
As you say Dan, sometimes just talking it through helps with a strategy or verifying the method.
I'll take some more pictures of the front rad support and post tomorrow.

Harley818

04-06-2015, 11:32 PM

So on this last adjustment go-around here is what I did.

1. Measured top of window to rollbar. 33 inches - check That confirms my windshield is in the correct position and angle per the manual. I want to install the FFR soft-top or hardtop.
2. Set the rear sails in place and bolt to the rear bumper. Roughly clamp in position to the 5/8 mark per FFR instructions. This is just a starting point.
3. Assemble the front bumper to the front side fenders and bolt together on the side, and to the fiberglass at the headlight buckets. No headlights installed yet.
4. lift the front assembly into position sitting on the front of the rear side sails. Mark and cut out clearance for the top rad support - you will have to do this to get it to come back far enough. The assembly should sit on the top of the front supports near the headlight, and on the rear supports near the windshield pillars.
5. pull the front assembly back, and pull the rear assembly forward to line up with the front of the rear side sails. This was an iterative process until I got it aligned. Make sure you get the front wheels centered on the wheelwell opening. There is no other adjustment for this location. The rear wheels aren't as important as I have adjustable rear trailing links.
6. Once I had the rear sails in position and front far enough back to line up correctly, i drilled and installed a rivet nut and bolted it together at the rear sail to front fender connection. Now the whole thing is connected but still not bolted in anywhere.
7. Walk around and make sure the rear trunks fit, and the front hood fits. Clamp and tape parts as necessary to see how well it fits.
8. Trunks fit well, but front hood still has a problem right at the window pillar fender area. I cut away a bit more of the window pillar fiberglass and got a better fit, but hood still seems like the tails are too long. They hit the window pillars.
9. Based on what RMSepEx and Mechie had done for the earlier body, I added a 1/2 in spacer under the rear support for the fender. This helped out quite a bit, and is better, but still not ideal at the window pillar area. The rest of the hood seams to the fenders look quite a bit better and aren't squeezing the hood anymore. Maybe I am too fussy, but it has to look good. I will see it if its not.
10. Good enough for tonight.

Front radiator support cut-outs and fit
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Fit to the front frame - fiberglass is right up to the 1 x 1 steel and about 2 inches below the opening.
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Fit at the window pillar. Might have to trim back the hood returns on the sides.
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Fit at the front of the rear sails where the front fenders attach. Note alignment to the front of the frame. 0.0 inches back.
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Front fender connection at the side near the headlight. I'll have to work on these connections, the FRP isn't the greatest and is a bit lumpy!
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Fit at the rear sail to trunk. Trunk not hitting roll bar yet, but i might have to go forward a bit more.
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I think I will leave this for a couple days and work on setting ride height before I lock it in.

any suggestions are welcome......I see now why you all took your time on the body fitting. lol.

Harley818

04-06-2015, 11:34 PM

Other side to rear sail - trunk.
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Front wheelwell alignment. Not quite centered yet. Might have to go back a bit more.
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Bob_n_Cincy

04-07-2015, 12:16 AM

Harley
I did the exact same things tonight, except I didn't take pictures.
One other thing I also did, is set the height of the bumper.
It is supposed to be 1/2" higher than the bottom of the cockpit. I bought a 10 foot piece of 1.5" square unistrut steel from lowes ($20).
I jacked this up against the bottom of the car leaving it stick out the front. The bar in the nose ended up with 1" between the bar and the lower fiberglass edge. I will make a spacer tomorrow. I am close to clecoing (if that is a word) my body to my frame.

I have not touched my doors yet.
Bob

wallace18

04-07-2015, 06:21 AM

Looking much better IMO.

RM1SepEx

04-07-2015, 07:20 AM

Looking good, how many beers? My last attack at getting it just right took 3 beers and a visit from a friend. I think the top of your fenders are too low, it looks like they are sliding under the windshield posts, they need to be outside of them.

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Bob, most of us used a piece of angle to hold the bottom of the nose to the radiator support, the nose never comes back far enough to allow screws up into nutserts in the tubing. You need to cut an arc into the front end of the bracket that you make Mike Emerson got there and did a nice write up first http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11400-Replicaparts-com-818-build-thread/page5

Bob_n_Cincy

04-07-2015, 08:58 AM

Harley818

04-07-2015, 04:00 PM

[QUOTE=RM1SepEx;194366] I think the top of your fenders are too low, it looks like they are sliding under the windshield posts, they need to be outside of them.

the nose never comes back far enough to allow screws up into nutserts in the tubing.

Thanks for the comments.
on the first item, my hood/fender ends are intersecting with the windshield posts (possibly because they are too low??). you are right, that they wouldn't interfere if I could get them higher. They are already spaced up 1/2 in higher on the mounting brackets, and I can't go higher unless I unbolt from the side sail, or move the side sail up.....which is secure against the bottom of the car frame (I already looked at that but it would be significant mods to the FRP.

on your second item - my FRP nose is right back and up against the support steel tubing......... I could use nutserts in the tubing but the heads would show on the front which wouldn't look good. Is this too far towards the rad? I had to move it here to get the right fit to the front of the side sails.

looks like another 3 - 4 beers to figure this out tonight!

RM1SepEx

04-07-2015, 06:24 PM

I mounted my fenders to the side sails, then aligned and mounted them to the fender/wheel wells, these are the first areas that must align in one place. The body lines make it easy. Then you slide the nose back to get the fender tips aligned where they meet the headlights and the nose. Next add the hood and attempt to get good gaps.

This is where the beers come in. I have 10 of those cheap little vice grips with the little square pads to clamp stuff together. The body panels do need to be twisted and torqued into place... It's important to me that I have wiper space and don't cut the hood. I'd commit Hari-Kari before I cut out my hood for the FFR wipers... just can't do it. So I have a support in the center to bow up my hood. It gives me a nice 2 inch space over the windshield...

When you play with the rear, you find the same problem. The panels get flat while the trunk and engine covers have arcs that need to be supported. Chris (Metalmaker) determined that he needed 8 inches over the brace that is under the stock IC. Mine is slightly lower.

So "stretching" the fender up, bowing the fenders running along the hood, bowing the hood, engine cover and trunk... it all adds up.

That's why I consider this a mean 3D puzzle. Every decision that you make effects something else.

Scargo

04-07-2015, 07:21 PM

LOL... "I'd commit hari-kari". Hard-core engineering type.
Watching videos I've seen a lot of rear end hood vibration. In one (of a FFR mule) I am seeing some kind of rear, mid-hood bracket. It makes me think that FFR used a magnet or better to hold the hood down and control its flapping. I am contemplating an aluminum brace across the back edge. In the middle it would perhaps pivot down and lock into something as it slides onto mounting pins.
Would love to drink beer and brainstorm with you. I'll be in Seattle Saturday. So close.

metalmaker12

04-07-2015, 07:36 PM

I made a hood bracket along with others to stop the flop.

Harley818

04-07-2015, 11:18 PM

Why is it the dogs always gravitate to the seats? At least Cali realizes which one is hers!
We have two dogs and they LOVE working with me in the garage......bribing with treats helps too.
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Then I got this bad boy in the mail today..... now I'm looking for the shoehorn to get it to fit. Dual exhaust coming by hook or by crook.
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Bob, I checked the height of the front bumper with your method. Its about 5/8 to 3/4 in higher than the frame tubing.
RM1SepEx, thanks for the encouragement... sounds like I just need more beer and clamps. I plan to add permanent underhood supports once I decide that its all fitting right to avoid the vibration issues. I hate vibrations and squeeks/noises so mine will be tight. In the meantime, I'm using wood blocks to shim here and there.

got home from work late so not much else happening here tonight.

Harley818

04-10-2015, 01:06 AM

Tonight things just fell into place.

Dan, I checked the windshield pillar and double checked the measurements from the top of the windshield to the top corner of the trunk. Windshield needed to come down.
As soon as I re-adjusted it down, and re-checked the 33 in measure at the middle to the rollbar, the back fender/hood corners worked out just like your pictures.
I added a 3/4 in shim under the back corner of the fender at the support to lift it a bit as well.
In the center of the front bumper, I have about 1 in from the fiberglass to the lower bumper support where you put your angle.

Then I went on to set the frame on 5 in blocks and torqued all my suspension.
Took the blocks out, and now just adjusting the springs to get it back to ride height on the springs.

I just want to make sure I get the wheels centered in the wheelwells before I bolt the body in place.

Harley818

04-26-2015, 10:35 PM

Took a few days off from the body, went skiing, went to the cabin, but back at it today and yesterday.
I think I finally have the body where I want it.

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Overall, my goal was to align everything without stressing the parts. We product fiberglass products, and the ones that are stressed, always have problems.

My goals were to end up with the wheels centered in the wheelwells, and to have nice even gaps. Like Aloha, I want the car to look as production finished as possible.

Today, I took it apart and started over from the beginning. This was my process:

I set up the rear sails at the 5/8 in back point to start, as suggested in the manual, and bolted on the rear bumper. I used two 1/4-20 bolts on each joint that I had previously drilled. When I am completely done, I will drill two additional holes with tight tolerance bolts to hold it in final position.
I had already trimmed a clearance on the bottom of the bumper for the rear transmission mount bolt that interferes on the bottom with the fiberglass.

I had already put together the front bumper fenders assembly on the floor, aligning the fender bumper joint, and aligning the front of the fender points where they join the bumper at the front of the hood. These were bolted together with 10-24 riv-nuts. I'll add one or two tight tolerance bolts later to lock the position.
I ground down the corners of the steel frame front bumper mounting points. This was suggested on the forum as the sharp corners interfere with the alignment of the front bumper. I hadn't done this before today.
Then I mounted the front bumper/fender assembly roughly in place.
I located spacer blocks under the bumper to get the correct height at 3/4 in. above the frame height. (apparently they are supposed to be higher than the frame).
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The side sails were too far back to allow correct connection to the fenders without excessive stress, so I moved them forward, and bolted the front fender to the front of the sail using rivnuts.
I played with the whole assembly alignment moving it front to back until I had the front wheels in the center of the wheelwell.
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The position ended up with the front of the side sail 1/4 in back from the front of the frame. (Edit - this measurement is supposed to be with the front flange trimmed off so in effect, the 1/4 in is actually 7/8 - 1 in !!! ).
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At this position, the distance from the inside of the rollbar square support tube to the front of the top corner of the door sill fiberglass was 7 5/8 in. on both sides. You can just see the bracket for the door latch by the seat.
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The front bumper fiberglass height: top of steel support tube is 1 3/4 in below the top of the glass crossmember.
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The fiberglass is right back against the support steel.
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The bumper is located slightly to the right (about 3/8 in.) on the upper steel support pads. I think this is due to the misalignment on the front rad support frame. Mine measured pretty square when i measured it crossways, but the fiberglass is not located symetrically on the pads.

Harley818

04-26-2015, 10:42 PM

Continued......
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I centered the rear bumper by measuring from the lower frame to the sharp point in the fiberglass behind the rear tire. 21 inches both sides.
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I threw the hump trunk on when I was adjusting the side fender widths, and spaced it out with paint stick width.
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Then I measured and adjusted the rear side fenders from the upper shock to the outside of the fender at the top of the wheelwell. I clamped it at 13 inches both sides with good gaps. Then I laid the rear trunk lid in and checked the gaps. OK at the front, but no gaps at the back side, and there is a 1/2 in gap at the very back bumper when there are paint stick widths between the two trunk lids. The lid is not curved as much as the bumper, so if I set some weights on it I'm sure the gaps will get better.
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Harley818

04-26-2015, 10:48 PM

Continued.....

I laid the front hood in place, spaced it with paint sticks, and adjusted the width of the fenders.
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I measured and adjusted the front side fenders from the upper ball joint to the outside of the fender at the top of the wheelwell. 11 inches both sides.
I installed an aluminum angle to hold them apart at the correct width.
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For RMSepex, I measured at the rear crossbar. 9.4 mm on the passenger side from the welded tab to the inside edge of the fiberglass ridge. 9.3 mm on the drivers side.
Clearance at the rollbar both sides is zero. Fiberglass is touching, but doesn't need to be trimmed.
4135641357

Last measurement was the soft-top distances. 26.25 to the corner of the windshield, but only 32 at the top of the middle to the rollbar. I haven't played around with this much yet, and I might be out of luck getting them both, but I'm pleased with all the other measurements and alignments.

I have nice paint stick gaps everywhere, except the trunk, and wheels are centered in the wheelwells.

Bob_n_Cincy

04-26-2015, 11:11 PM

Hi Harley,
I have been working on the same body alignment.
Great write up and pictures.

One Little thing, the 5/8" measurement on the side sails is with the front edge trimmed off. see this picture.
Bob
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Harley818

04-26-2015, 11:11 PM

One more thing I should have mentioned, the rear of the front fenders are sitting on the supports. I had previously stretched them and had spacers. Don't need them now unless I want to try to get the hood a bit higher for the windsheild wipers. I'm going to try to keep it as high as I can.

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Drilled out the aluminum panel for the front of the door
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Now that I have the body where I want it I started drilling locations for rivnuts on the rear sails.
41367

Decided it was time to rivet in the front splash panels I should have done long ago..... had to disconnect the brakeline.... so now have to re-bleed.
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Harley818

04-26-2015, 11:17 PM

Bob_n_Cincy

04-26-2015, 11:49 PM

RM1SepEx

04-27-2015, 06:36 AM

Bob, Thanks for pointing that out. I just re-measured based on if I had the front edge trimmed out..... I have 7/8 to 1 in. I guess I read those along time ago.....

Why wouldn't they use this flange to bolt to the front of the frame? Is it in the way of something else? or will it look bad?
Are you trimming yours off?

When you put in the funky bent aluminum with the slot in it (item 1, pn 80126 in exploded diagram) there isn't any clearance for that piece, I'm leaving mine too and trimming the aluminum

now that your body is that far back you won't be able to rotate your door latch brackets in place without modifying the rectangular slots

Harley818

05-07-2015, 11:56 PM

When you put in the funky bent aluminum with the slot in it (item 1, pn 80126 in exploded diagram) there isn't any clearance for that piece, I'm leaving mine too and trimming the aluminum

now that your body is that far back you won't be able to rotate your door latch brackets in place without modifying the rectangular slots

I'll trim the aluminum as well. I'd rather have the body where I want it.
Also I have the latch brackets in place.... just had to file out the slot so one end was square for the carriage bolt. Didn't take too long and allowed me to install right where it was.

I took the back bumper off for some secret modifications.......more later when I can show you.
In the meantime, I cut up my stainless steel muffler and mandrel bent piping so I can finalize my exhaust. Going for dual, but I wanted to keep it low so I can still have a bit of a trunk.
4176841769
One side will go straight out, the other will loop up over the trans to the other side and exit out the back.
Just mocked up and marked at the moment..... now bringing to work to get one of the guys to weld it up.

I haven't had time lately...... seems like there is an equation out there that no matter how many combustion engines you have there is always 1 that isn't working,.... or is it two?

A couple weeks ago my 9.9 merc kicker wouldn't start.... so I did a carb rebuild. Now runs like a top.
Then the Yamaha 125 wouldn't start... another carb rebuild... now its working.
Went to start the jeep at the cabin... battery dead after sitting since October. Brought it home to charge it up.
Went to run the generator.....runs but stalls when you apply load... need to figure that one out now.
Chainsaw still works......gas trimmer still works......lol
Then brakes on the Tundra, brakes on the mini, and finally time for the 818 again.

Scargo

05-08-2015, 08:41 AM

I'm always finding glop in the carburetors of stuff I have in BC. Gas treatment seems to help. Low octane, cheap gas seems to be the culprit. Over-winter it turns into gas boogers, much like gelatin and clogs everything. When people at the lake have trouble with their 9.9's I just say let me clean your carburetor...

Harley818

05-09-2015, 12:05 AM

Harley818

05-13-2015, 11:51 PM

Got a couple hours yesterday ........and got the passenger side rear sails drilled, rivnuts installed, and bolted in place.
All the bolts fit!
What I have been doing is drilling holes to 1/8 in like I would for rivets, installing cleco's as I go.
Then I upsize the drill to 3/16, then to the rivnut pilot size for 10-24 rivnuts.
By upsizing and drilling slowly, it seems the location stays centered.
Once done with the rivnuts, I drill the fiberglass for 10-24 clearance holes, and bolt it in.
I was really surprized that they all fit without having to re-drill the frp clearance holes. There was about 20 holes.
Once I was done.... nice and solid feel to the side sail.

I'm thinking though that I'll have to do the final bolt in with loctite to avoid the body panel from coming loose under vibration.

Bob_n_Cincy

05-14-2015, 01:07 AM

I'm thinking though that I'll have to do the final bolt in with loctite to avoid the body panel from coming loose under vibration.

Harley
I'm doing similar but using 1/4-20 revnuts. I put a dab of rtv on the threads of every screw to prevent it from backing out under vibration.
Bob

Harley818

05-15-2015, 03:31 PM

Is the RTV easy to unscrew later on? Maybe I'll try one and see myself.

Last night I drilled and riveted all the screws for the Drivers side sail. Again, by starting with 1/8 through both fiberglass and steel, and using cleco's, then using 3/16 in the steel, then the 10-24 rivnut pilot drill, and finally drilling out the fiberglass to 3/16, I got them all to align! Truthfully, I had to drill one hole a little larger to get it to start.
Hopefully I will get sometime this weekend to drill and rivnut the front end,and get the second headlight installed.
My Passenger headlight bucket doesn't have much of a lip so I plan to bond on 3 angles to the front bumper to support the bucket, and since I'm at it, I'll do the same for the driver side so they are the same.

Scargo

05-16-2015, 06:38 AM

I use this stuff.
41959
Ordinary RTV caulk or an RTV silicone sealant (instant gasket, like Permatex products) would probably be fine as Bob said. Certainly works well for plumbed pieces on an engine block (and they come apart without grief).

Harley818

05-20-2015, 02:29 PM

Got a couple hours in on the weekend.
The windshield is now mounted in final position. It was a balance of locating far enough back to give enough clearance at the back corner of the fender and hood. and having it high enough to clear the top front of the door. When I set it up I couldn't achieve the 26.25 and 33 inches at the center to the rollbar. I got 26.75 and 32 in. Hope that's close enough, otherwise I'll have to modify the back of the hood and fender area.

I also trimmed the engine cover and front hood, cutting the return flanges down to the right height. Now they fit really nice..... Pics later.

Working on getting the exhaust set up.... tacked it all, trial fit it, and now getting it welded up.
Also more progress on my back bumper mods. Hopefully I can show pics in the next 2 weeks.

Harley818

05-27-2015, 12:49 AM

Picked up my air-water intercooler on the weekend while in Seattle for my son's baseball tournament.

Got the radiator mocked up in place and made the top bracket. Fits nicely between the fiberglass from the front bumper. Now have to figure out the lower support bracket.
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While I was in there I thought I would make a bracket to hold the front bumper to the support steel. My front bumper is right up against the steel, but I still needed to add the angle to hold it at the right height.
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I wasn't sure on hose sizes for the intercooler so I did a trial fit with the sizes I bought, but now am changing it up a bit. My intercooler is the 600hp one with 3 in openings. I am using a 3 x 2.5 90 degree, then 2.5 stainless tube to the next 2.5 x 2.0 90 degree, then 2 in tube to the reducer and into the turbo.
I also have to figure out where to put my BPV. I was thinking of welding a mounting bracket for the stock one. is this a good or bad idea? or should I buy a new BPV? I would rather have the BPV route the air back into the system instead of out of the system (since it would mess up the A/F ratio otherwise).
Or is this a dumb idea and I should just buy a new BPV? What are the rest of you doing?

STiPWRD

05-27-2015, 09:22 AM

I also have to figure out where to put my BPV. I was thinking of welding a mounting bracket for the stock one. is this a good or bad idea? or should I buy a new BPV? I would rather have the BPV route the air back into the system instead of out of the system (since it would mess up the A/F ratio otherwise).
Or is this a dumb idea and I should just buy a new BPV? What are the rest of you doing?
Harley, how much boost are you planning on running? I've heard the stock BPV can leak at high boost but otherwise should work fine. If you ran a vent to atmosphere BOV it would only mess up your AFR when you let off the throttle and the air escapes, causing a momentary rich condition as the RPMs drop. This can be corrected with tuning. I ran a turboxs RFL BOV (vent to atmosphere) in the wrx for years without any issues. I think it comes down to personal preference on the sound - BPVs are more subtle while BOVs make that PSHHHHHHHH! I enjoy the sound so I'm going to be running the HKS SSQV on the 818. HKS makes a recirculating adapter for this BOV so later on I have that option if I choose.
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Tamra

05-27-2015, 10:44 AM

I like your bumper bracket!

Looks like you'll have to cut the bumper more when you add hoses to your AWIC radiator. We had to do the same.

Harley818

05-28-2015, 01:34 AM

I like your bumper bracket!

Looks like you'll have to cut the bumper more when you add hoses to your AWIC radiator. We had to do the same.

Yes, I'll be cutting into the front bumper for clearance on the one side.

Harley818

05-28-2015, 01:39 AM

Harley, how much boost are you planning on running? I've heard the stock BPV can leak at high boost but otherwise should work fine. If you ran a vent to atmosphere BOV it would only mess up your AFR when you let off the throttle and the air escapes, causing a momentary rich condition as the RPMs drop. This can be corrected with tuning. I ran a turboxs RFL BOV (vent to atmosphere) in the wrx for years without any issues. I think it comes down to personal preference on the sound - BPVs are more subtle while BOVs make that PSHHHHHHHH! I enjoy the sound so I'm going to be running the HKS SSQV on the 818. HKS makes a recirculating adapter for this BOV so later on I have that option if I choose.
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I'm planning to run moderate boost, so nothing alot higher than stock, but who knows? I have a heavy foot.
And as you point out the BOV sound is more pronounced than the BPV. I'm not a fan of the Pshhhhh! I think it would get stale fast, but to each his own.
Thanks for the info.

Scargo

05-28-2015, 06:22 AM

Wind noise, motor noise... You will soon forget the Pshhh sound. At least I have in my loud STi. I hardly hear the chime, which I clearly hear in my latest videos, thanks to an external, stereo mic. Then again, I wear a helmet and am partially deaf.:o

On another note, (nice segue, huh?) I am not expecting anyone to change or go along with me, but I would like to point out that the bodywork everyone is referring to as a bumper is really not. It's the nose or front fascia. The 818 has no bumper.
OK, I said it. It's off my chest. Carry on.

Tamra

05-28-2015, 03:30 PM

I'm hoping we can convince the CT DMV that it's a bumper. They have wording in the requirements for composite vehicles saying they require a bumper...

Harley818

05-28-2015, 06:48 PM

Glynn, you are of course correct, but I was just going with the flow since that is what everyone else was calling it. They aren't really side sails either.... aren't they front & rear fenders or quarter panels?
Whats the Tazio Nuvolari name for the rear bumper? the Buttscia? Ha ha. couldn't resist..... (and yes, I had to look him up).

Tamra

05-29-2015, 04:46 PM

I spoke with the CT DMV today, they're officially not bumpers lol. They require a bar across the front and rear of the car, to within 6" of either side of the car, 16-22" off the ground. Not sure how we're going to fit that... but we'll figure out a way.

I guess after we have a metal brace connected to the frame behind the front fascia, we could call it a bumper?

Scargo

05-29-2015, 05:30 PM

No. With a bumper behind it, it's a fascia... That's MY opinion. LOL. I think I will be at the Wicked Big Meet.
Coming through Vancouver on the 18th.

Harley818

06-19-2015, 12:34 AM

Time for an update.
Like many, I am now re-doing stuff i have already completed. Having too much fun I guess.

Shifter. I had the FFR shifter installed, adjusted and working great, but I just didn't like the feel. So..... now I bought an MR2 shifter off ebay and am following other threads to see how best to set up my shifter position and bell crank assembly for the best overall arrangement. I'm planning a dual exhaust Vman style, so I need the room... Stay tuned.

Intercooler. I decided I wanted to add some insurance to the heating issues, so I bought a bunch of components from FB. I didn't realize at the time that Mechie has a discount going, so I missed out on that (every little bit helps). I had to play with a bunch of options to get it to work out, but now I'm happy with the ultimate result.
I bought the 600hp version - I figured the extra cooling would be good. I also went for the Cobra circulating pump, and am going to try out the greddy knockoff BOV.
I have a 2002 WRX donor so my heater line is in the center and in the way. To avoid interference issues with the heater line, and the IC hitting the engine cover, I went with a 45 degree reducer from the IC to the throttle valve. I cut it back a bit so its now a 30 degree reducer. This arrangement allow me to fit it in without interference and more space all around.
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This is how much I cut off.
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With the 30 degree reducer, IC mounting brackets are also easier to form.
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I'm using some 1/8 x 1 in SS flatbar which is easy enough to bend and twist into position.

I haven't figured out my BOV hook-up entirely, but I'm hoping to just extend the stock hose to the turbo inlet BOV hose.
The black mark on the top of the IC is where I plan to tap for my intake temp sensor.
Also, I'm planning to tap into the water side to allow a bleed valve for the coolant.

If anyone's interested, I can post all the parts I ended up buying from FB (which you can get cheaper through Mechie)..

Harley818

06-19-2015, 12:41 AM

I also have my rear bumper back from getting a few mods......Vman style.
I'm now able to finish mocking up the rest of my dual exhaust and should be able to post Pics soon I hope.

Hindsight

06-19-2015, 06:12 AM

Nice progress! The intercooler setup looks good.

Tamra

06-19-2015, 08:28 AM

Re-doing work is the worst! But, it looks like it is coming together well!

We missed you during your month break ;) Don't leave us hanging so long next time.

STiPWRD

06-19-2015, 08:53 AM

I also have my rear bumper back from getting a few mods......Vman style.
I'm now able to finish mocking up the rest of my dual exhaust and should be able to post Pics soon I hope.
Very excited to see this!

matteo92065

06-19-2015, 10:07 AM

Time for an update.
Like many, I am now re-doing stuff i have already completed. Having too much fun I guess.

Intercooler. I decided I wanted to add some insurance to the heating issues, so I bought a bunch of components from FB. I didn't realize at the time that Mechie has a discount going, so I missed out on that (every little bit helps). I had to play with a bunch of options to get it to work out, but now I'm happy with the ultimate result.
I bought the 600hp version - I figured the extra cooling would be good. I also went for the Cobra circulating pump, and am going to try out the greddy knockoff BOV.
I have a 2002 WRX donor so my heater line is in the center and in the way. To avoid interference issues with the heater line, and the IC hitting the engine cover, I went with a 45 degree reducer from the IC to the throttle valve. I cut it back a bit so its now a 30 degree reducer. This arrangement allow me to fit it in without interference and more space all around.

This is how much I cut off.

With the 30 degree reducer, IC mounting brackets are also easier to form.

I'm using some 1/8 x 1 in SS flatbar which is easy enough to bend and twist into position.

I haven't figured out my BOV hook-up entirely, but I'm hoping to just extend the stock hose to the turbo inlet BOV hose.
The black mark on the top of the IC is where I plan to tap for my intake temp sensor.
Also, I'm planning to tap into the water side to allow a bleed valve for the coolant.

If anyone's interested, I can post all the parts I ended up buying from FB (which you can get cheaper through Mechie)..

Your install looks great. I have done exactly what you are doing.
Unfortunately I did exactly what you did. I ran into a few problems with that set up. They are fixed now but I just want to bring them up so you can fix them if you want.
First, the intercooler is sitting to far back if you are going to run the FFR trunk kit. The trunk will hit the rear support and possibly the intercooler itself. I fixed this by cutting more off of the TB to IC tube (make shorter). Of course I had my front brackets all made and painted before I found this out. If your not running the trunk, no reason to change. Second and last, is if you are going to run an engine cover hinge. If you do, the intercooler needs to be in front of the pivot axis of the hinge. Mine just barely clears now with my IC as forward as reasonably possible. But, if you are not running a hinged cover, your good.

For tapping: The two air temp holes were easy with plenty of material for threads. The air bleed hole on the water side was very thin on mine. Be careful on that one.

Last observation, I see you went with all red. I wanted to do that too, but you cant get the TB to IC 45* coupler in RED! :mad: So that's why I have all blue silicone.

Mechie3

06-19-2015, 10:33 AM

For the recirc, check out the photos and parts list here from FFR ADV. He got the stuff on ebay.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17591-Zero-Decibel-Motorsport-AWIC-Non-Clocked-Turbo-Install

Harley818

06-19-2015, 02:29 PM

STiPWRD - Thanks for the comment on the bumper. Laying the glass today, and pulling the first piece today, then might become a vendor and be able to offer it up. We will see how it turns out.

Matteo, you are right we did exactly the same thing, except I didn't go with all blue. I did get the blue BOV though. I have the hinges from Mike Everson for the engine cover but haven't tried to fit them yet. I guess I better. Because of the dual exhaust, I'll probably have to build my own trunk. Thanks for the heads up on drilling into the IC.

Mechie, thanks for the recirc reference. I knew I saw it somewhere.

Scargo

06-19-2015, 07:41 PM

Mmmm. Show cars. Color coordinated. What's the theme?

Harley818

06-19-2015, 08:21 PM

It needs to look right, and it needs to look good, but it will be a driven car..... not a show car... and no theme so far.

Harley818

06-19-2015, 09:06 PM

Thought i would share my plans.:)

Credit to Vman for the design, obviously I liked the look he drew up.
Also, I have to credit one of our fiberglass techs for the shaping work.
This is the plug bolted to the back of the car, with the new features done with glass and filler.

42895

Edit: fixed the attachment pic

Mechie3

06-19-2015, 10:37 PM

Attachment isn't working for me.

bbjones121

06-19-2015, 11:57 PM

Attachment didn't work for me either.

Harley818

06-20-2015, 04:56 PM

fixed now

07FIREBLADE

06-20-2015, 05:27 PM

Very nice. I like it alot. You should have a few more made ;)

flynntuna

06-20-2015, 06:29 PM

Very cool! :cool: you going to paint it blue too?

Harley818

06-21-2015, 12:24 AM

I do like the blue which is my back-up color, but I'm thinking grey metal, or lexus silver/grey.
Not sure yet.
I love the new coupe color.

Frank818

06-21-2015, 06:24 PM

Flynn, did you simply cut the bumper for your lower opening or you created a round edge all around? Hard to tell on picture.

Harley818

06-21-2015, 07:04 PM

the grey primer doesn' help to see the shape.
When I pull the part on Tuesday I will take better pics.
My plan is to cut out the bottom and top with some sort of mesh like the Vman design.

Mechie3

06-21-2015, 09:40 PM

I like it. Gives a lot more dimension to the rear vs the flat panel look.

Frank818

06-22-2015, 07:21 PM

Very interested to see the results (same color everywhere, no primer) on a close up pic and one away.

bbjones121

06-23-2015, 10:18 AM

Looks great! That is exactly what I was thinking about doing.

Harley818

06-24-2015, 12:04 AM

We pulled the first part out of the mould today...... looks good.
4302243023

When I get a chance I'll take a few straight on. These show the profiles from the side. I tried to contour it like the Vman concept.

Heading down to Seattle for the weekend, my son is at a tournament at Uof Wash. so I probably won't update till next week unless I get time tomorrow.

bbjones121

06-24-2015, 12:13 AM

Awesome! Will you sell any?

Harley818

06-24-2015, 12:45 AM

Probably sell a few.
Depends if I can talk my FRP tech into doing some afterhours work. I asked him if he was interested in building one or two per week.
If there is lots of interest, I will look for a fiberglass shop and get some pricing from them using my mould.

Hindsight

06-24-2015, 07:28 AM

I really like it. Very nice fiberglass work. It's definitely an art.

STiPWRD

06-24-2015, 08:05 AM

I gotta say that looks amazing

Frank818

06-24-2015, 01:23 PM

Wow amazing! I'd be interested to buy depending on the cost.

bbjones121

06-24-2015, 01:40 PM

Same here, dependant on price, add me to list.

R.Spec

06-24-2015, 09:07 PM

Awesome interested as well!

07FIREBLADE

06-24-2015, 09:43 PM

Please say this won't cost an arm and a leg. So down for it depending on cost. Shipping is going to be killer though coming from BC

Frank818

06-25-2015, 11:01 AM

BC?
Hey that's true!! He's from Canada! Free shipping for me! lolll Then it makes me want the bumper even more as I'll save one tax and a lot in shipping.

bbjones121

07-07-2015, 12:12 PM

Harley818

07-12-2015, 11:18 PM

was out of town for a bit and busy with work and other priorities but had a couple hours today.

Here is the new bumper installed.
435444354543546

Then with lights bolted in....

435474354843549

I threw the trunk on but I haven't trimmed the return flanges yet and I have to add something (probably glass in a stiffener) to get it to sit flat.
This should let you see how the finished product looks.
435504355143552

Next task.... cut the holes for the vent screen.

I haven't looked into making additional parts yet but I will. I need to contact a local fiberglass shop who can build more then I'll get a quote. And I'll check into shipping costs from here vs going down to Washington (1 hour from here) and shipping from there. That may be a problem as the US Border Security may not like me bringing down parts ..... I'll check it out and get back to you all.

bbjones121

07-13-2015, 01:14 PM

Looks great! can't wait to see it with the cutouts.

was out of town for a bit and busy with work and other priorities but had a couple hours today.

Here is the new bumper installed.
435444354543546

Then with lights bolted in....

435474354843549

I threw the trunk on but I haven't trimmed the return flanges yet and I have to add something (probably glass in a stiffener) to get it to sit flat.
This should let you see how the finished product looks.
435504355143552

Next task.... cut the holes for the vent screen.

I haven't looked into making additional parts yet but I will. I need to contact a local fiberglass shop who can build more then I'll get a quote. And I'll check into shipping costs from here vs going down to Washington (1 hour from here) and shipping from there. That may be a problem as the US Border Security may not like me bringing down parts ..... I'll check it out and get back to you all.

Harley818

07-14-2015, 11:56 PM

Did the rough cut for the vents.
I left about 1/4 in of the flat section for the vent to back up to and to provide a bit of "frame" edge look for the vent.
43585
43586
Vman concept

Harley818

07-26-2015, 09:56 PM

Got some time this weekend...... installed Mike everson's engine cover hinges. Worked out great and gives lots of clearance to my AWIC. They are easy to install but I had to add a 3/16 spacer to push it back a bit. My body is located back further than suggested in the manual.
43952439534395443955

Also started to install the rear wheelwells. Had to trim a little to get them to follow the fiberglass better.
43956

Got my MR2 shifter set up to mount in the tunnel
43957

bbjones121

08-26-2015, 10:57 PM

Any updates?

Harley818

09-02-2015, 11:43 PM

Taking some vacation, working on other projects.....not having alot of car time lately.....
No pics but I did re-mount my AWIC and HE, got the intercooler all mounted, silicone hoses cut and connected, and HE coolant hoses hooked up. STill have to mount and hook electrical to the pump.
Got part of the 2nd exhaust pipe mocked up, still more to do.
Re-did the MR2 shifter mount with a new aluminum plate, and received one shifter cable..... I thought I ordered 2 but only got one....
Received the rod ends to connect, but now need to source some Aluminum rod for the connections.

07FIREBLADE

09-03-2015, 03:21 AM

Saw this thread being bumped and was hoping for good news for news on you possibly selling some of these bumpers to go with my soon to arrive hardtop. I've got some spare cash if you need an incentive;)

Flamshackle

10-25-2015, 04:49 AM

any updates mate?

Harley818

11-01-2015, 11:38 PM

any updates mate?

I have a new position at work that requires alot more travel so haven't got much done recently.

I've been doing little things here and there but nothing much to report. Still working on the new shifter, have all the parts, but need the time to put it all together.
I have the new AWIC installed, just need to finish the coolant pump, and still need to finish off the last cutting/fitting & welding of the dual exhaust.

Our fiberglass tech doesn't want to take on the responsibility of building additional rear bumpers, so i will find a local shop to give me a price. Does anyone know what the process is to import parts from Canada to US? I can easily ship from here, but it would be nice to let people know what importation costs are for most of you to the US.
I pick up all my orders across the line in Blaine, WA. so I could drop the occasional one off there, but I wouldn't want to take any personal risk so there may be some charges.

I'll get the part cost first and let you all know.

Lumpyguy

11-07-2015, 06:16 AM

Harley do you have any wheel spacers on with the rear rims and how flush did they end up with the fenders?

Harley818

11-12-2015, 12:21 AM

Harley do you have any wheel spacers on with the rear rims and how flush did they end up with the fenders?

I do not have any wheel spacers. I was trying to avoid them.
I am trying for the same look you are.
The tires are right flush (maybe slightly proud) with the outside of the fenders with my wheel size and offset.
I ran out to the garage to take a couple pics for you.

4753847539

07FIREBLADE

11-12-2015, 12:27 AM

Did you happen to get that rear bumper sent out for a quote at all during your absence? That wheel fitment is perfect. Whats your offset?

Harley818

11-12-2015, 12:57 AM

Haven't got the quote back yet......

Wheel fit is +33 on front and back

XXR 530's.
Front 17 x 8.25 with Maaxis 235/40-17
Rear 18 x 8.75 with Maaxis 255/35-18

07FIREBLADE

11-12-2015, 01:49 AM

Darn no bumper, I really like your fitment. That was second choice of wheels.

Harley818

12-04-2015, 12:58 AM

OK - about that new Vman bumper.....
Sorry about the delay, but lots of stuff going on.
Haven't been making much progress lately, other projects, new job....etc etc.

I was hoping a couple of our fiberglass techs would want some OT to build this part... but no.
Our other local fiberglass suppller is overloaded.

Good news is I contacted another division and one of the guys there is really keen.
He wants to use this as a trial for a new technique using left over fiberglass chop, and use a vacuum bagging method.
The parts will be really strong... much stronger and better quality than FFR fiberglass and the cost will be lower than normal fiberglass as a result.
Hope to get the mould to him this week, and a price from him in a week or two.
Wont take him long to build the parts.

We can probably just ship to the US by FEDEX but I have no idea about US customs and duties from Canada.

Any one know what it would take a buyer located in the US? I'm sure anyone else on the forum would have the same questions.

Then I'll have to get my vendor agreement set up with the forum, and expression of interest/orders from interested people....

thought I would update you-all

07FIREBLADE

12-04-2015, 01:56 AM

You and the packers just made my day. Can't wait to here some good news soon. I'm definitely on board.

Mechie3

12-04-2015, 08:39 AM

I'd be interested in seeing pricing. I much prefer this over the original and the boxed in light area with separate center grill would work excellent for an idea I have.

Aero STI

12-04-2015, 09:07 PM

Yeah, this bumper redesign is awesome. I'm interested. There are a lot of people who are talented with fiberglass in my area from building boats (Tiara, SlickCraft, S2, Chris-Craft). It is great to see quality fiberglass work.

07FIREBLADE

01-08-2016, 06:37 AM

Any update now Harley now that the holiday season is finally over now. Getting my top soon and would love to have this bumper redesign.

Harley818

01-19-2016, 11:07 PM

I do have some pricing.
Also talked to David H. to get registered as a vendor and sent in my company info and now I see it on the vendor page.... VirtualLook

I posted a new thread with all the details to gauge interest - its in the General Category thread
I have the mould... so no minimum quantities required.

This is for the new Vman style rear bumper in fiberglass. See picture below
49893

Laminate is 2.8 to 4mm thick, general purpose polyester resin
Same size as FFR rear bumper, probably just slightly heavier as the FRP is better and stronger.

This is what it looks like on the car....
I wanted dual exhaust, and a vent cutout across the top.
49894

Check out the new thread on "General" if you are interested.
Just to remind you all of what the Vman design looked like....
49933