San Diego builds, One the easy way, one the hard way

[matteo92065]

I'll post up mostly my 818 build; the easy way. I'm also building one with my boss; the hard way. I say hard way, but its more of a really "involved" way. He is heavily modifying the chassis and body.

Back to mine...
Started with a 06 Impreza 5 speed. But I'm lucky enough to have a 2006 WRX motor available.

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My kit should be delivered in July '14.

The "Hard" way:
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[Brando]

Where in S.D. are you? Congrats, pretty cool. I'm sure the boss man will kick down some of his mods for you

[wleehendrick]

Good to have some company down here! I live in Encinitas, and am building in San Marcos.

[matteo92065]

The Hard Way is being built right now in Mira Mesa. I'm building mine in Ramona.
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[Brando]

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Woa you weren't kidding! You need to elaborate on the "hard way"... what are you doing?

[apexanimal]

now that's a wrench...

[matteo92065]

Yes, the large wrench was to tighten the ball joint. As others have pointed out; it can be very tight.

In the pictures above the frame is being prepped to stretch it 3" longer.
We put the seat in with tank, without tank, took lots of measurements and compared them to a late model 911. We all agreed that the car will fit a 5'10" guy just right. The owner of the Hard Way is a big 6'2" guy, so the car is getting longer. This is all with a big, wide and comfortable seat.

[MrDude_1]

Yes, the large wrench was to tighten the ball joint. As others have pointed out; it can be very tight.

In the pictures above the frame is being prepped to stretch it 3" longer.
We put the seat in with tank, without tank, took lots of measurements and compared them to a late model 911. We all agreed that the car will fit a 5'10" guy just right. The owner of the Hard Way is a big 6'2" guy, so the car is getting longer. This is all with a big, wide and comfortable seat.

does he realize he can make the seat much much lower, and move it further back with either a slimmer tank, or moving the tank...?

[matteo92065]

does he realize he can make the seat much much lower, and move it further back with either a slimmer tank, or moving the tank...?

Did you miss the thread title? The Hard Way. :) Just kidding.
I'm posting pictures and descriptions for general interest and the WOW factor. Much of what will be done to this car will not be done to mine or any others. He likes to leave his mark and make things his way. I enjoy seeing what he does, I just thought I would share.

We have tanks, moved tanks, seat has no hardware on it, etc, etc.
He wanted it the car longer. <---- Bottom Line.

[matteo92065]

I don't know if one of these have been posted... So I'll put this up so others can see what to expect...
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[carbon fiber]

Is there any concern with extending the wheelbase, that it could dramatically change handling/turn in of the car?

[matteo92065]

Is there any concern with extending the wheelbase, that it could dramatically change handling/turn in of the car?
I'll let you know when we get both done.

[matteo92065]

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Its now 4" longer.

[carbon fiber]

Very true, you will have a stock wheelbase chassis to compare to. I'm curious myself.

[BC Huselton]

Where is the roll bar? Has it been removed to be heightened as well?

BC

[matteo92065]

Yes the roll bar was also cut off/out. He wants to make it a little higher and maybe put some bends in to match the humps over the engine cover.

[AZPete]

This will be fun to watch! Please keep posting photos.

[matteo92065]

This will be fun to watch! Please keep posting photos.

O.K. here are a few recent pictures...
We bolted a few parts to the long block built by AJW. The Long block is very clean and appears to be a top quality build. Its a pleasure to work on.

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This other motor is the first one that we built in-house. The parts (pistons, connecting rods, etc) all came in boxes that looked like jewelry should be in them.
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[matteo92065]

Instead of running with the "U" shaped bypass hose for the heater core we modified the coolant manifolds. This not only eliminates the additional bypass hose, but also eliminates much of the OEM steel coolant manifolds.
Not this:
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THIS:
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[matteo92065]

We have been Cadmium Plating all the steel parts and fasteners to give the car that "new" look.
Before:
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After:
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[matteo92065]

The "hard way" wiring is really challenging for me.
We are putting in a 2011 STI motor with DAVS. So we can either put in a 2008+ ECU, with gauge cluster, immobilizer, wiring harnesses (way more complicated than a 2006 WRX system),or I can use a Hydra stand alone ECU that is designed for a 2006 harness, then splice in the B21 plug for the motor. The Hydra was programmed to control the additional cams.
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[matteo92065]

The owner wanted to put in a Carrera GT style shifter. The shift knob is about the same height as steering wheel, it is angled, and the area below would be open.
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We are using a 1st Gen MR2 shifter and reworking the linkage on the transmission. Both cables will be parallel all the way to the back where there will be a rocker arm for the twisting motion. We just finished the 3-D printed version, the final aluminum one should be done next week. So far it looks like we will have to get new morse cables that are about 7-8' shorter. It really opens up more options for a rear trunk too.

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[matteo92065]

I arranged shipping with Stewart just over a month ago. Communications is sparse at best with them. My first delivery date came and went with no car, no phone call and no email. I finally called them and they said, "sorry our trailer is broken". I know its a whole car and all, but an update and an eta would be very comforting. I guess I am spoiled by UPS & FedEX. :confused:

[Brando]

Don't feel left out. Most of us played the waiting game with Stewart. Mine arrived 4 weeks late but in Stewarts defense there was some severe weather going on and they had a rig down.

[mikeb75]

Just be patient until the driver calls, anything else you hear is -um creative. Sorry, that's the way it seems to work. I wrote a rant about it a while ago, and like Brando says, most of us have had the same experience.

Yes, the communication situation is awful and yes it sucks, but truly once the car is in your garage it doesn't much matter. Hang in there.

[305mouse]

It sounds like one of their trucks is always down.

[C.Plavan]

Mine was "Pushed Back" a day because the driver wanted to watch the Green Bay FB game.... :)

[Turboguy]

I arranged shipping with Stewart just over a month ago. Communications is sparse at best with them. My first delivery date came and went with no car, no phone call and no email. I finally called them and they said, "sorry our trailer is broken". I know its a whole car and all, but an update and an eta would be very comforting. I guess I am spoiled by UPS & FedEX. :confused:

They were pretty flakey back when we tried to deal with them 8 years ago too.


When all of a sudden the quoted price more than doubled, we said "see ya" to their mickey mouse operation and never looked back.

[D Clary]

I think a lot depends on where they have to deliver cars. The driver who delivered mine lives in Phoenix so his layover there was longer because he wanted to be home for a while. They can fit eight cars in the trailer and they wont head out west without a full load as they already have to return empty. It's just the logistics of the specialized transportation. If you want to save time you can always have it crated and shipped by another courier. I waited eleven moths for my kit so anther five weeks didn't kill me. PS I called the dispatch once a week after 3 weeks just to keep updated. Its your stuff so you need to watch it.

[matteo92065]

It took longer than I thought it should, but it is here. I have number 222. easy to remember.
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I like seeing all the different build locations and conditions that other people have posted. So here is mine.

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[wleehendrick]

Congrats! I better get my butt in gear and finish up #52. I've had my kit long enough it would be embarrassing not to be the first one done in S.D. :(

[matteo92065]

Finished the shift linkage on the 'Hard way'. The new shift cables are 95" long.
First one done with 3-D printer
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Close to final product. I am looking forward to driving it. I want to see what it feels like.
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[AZPete]

Very clever improved shift cable lever! Are you using the FFR-supplied shifter or the K-Tuned shifter?

[Aero STI]

That turned out awesome. Where did you get all of the shifter cable components, like the rod ends?

[matteo92065]

Very clever improved shift cable lever! Are you using the FFR-supplied shifter or the K-Tuned shifter?
Neither, using a Gen 1 MR2 shifter. It has the cables entering from the rear of the car, so the cables take more of a direct route to the transmission.
post #22 has some pictures.

[Mechie3]

Nice work on the linkage. I prototyped one months ago and then life got busy. I like the red rod ends.

[matteo92065]

That turned out awesome. Where did you get all of the shifter cable components, like the rod ends?

From McMaster Carr part number on the rod ends: 60685K721

[matteo92065]

Nice work on the linkage. I prototyped one months ago and then life got busy. I like the red rod ends.

Thanks! We were going after the same thing. Are you going to pursue your version (see Mechie3 build post #856)? You've indirectly helped me so much on my wiring 11880-Wiring-Guide-06-WRX-Sedan-with-Auto-AC-HVAC, that I'd like to offer you my SolidWorks files to get you going on it again.

[matteo92065]

Its been two nights and I really wanted a roller.
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On the steering... I ended up with aluminum a-arms, and I think a '06 WRX wagon steering rack. QUESTION: What holes do I use on the frame? I put them on the outer most street holes and the tires were really towed IN. I've adjusted the rod ends on the rack about an inch on both sides. Is that too much?? Its seems to me that I could simply use the inner holes on the frame and not adjusted anything. I have two other racks and will measure the center to center distances on them, and I will look at how much thread is left in the rod end.

I looked at the 'hard way' and his is the same as mine.

[wleehendrick]

AFAIK, Aluminum arms only came on WRX/STi sedans with a wider track (and fender flares), so those should mount to the inner most set of holes. The outer set of holes are for stock WRX wagon/Impreza (steel) arms for narrower track bodies. My donor's a 06 WRX wagon, and I used the black steel LCAs on the outer holes. The idea being to put the hubs in the same spot on the 818 regardless of which LCAs are used.

[matteo92065]

I just received my Carbon Splitter and Fiberglass spoiler. BUT!!! , its a CARBON SPOILER. I was super pumped that the rear spoiler came in a carbon fiber that matches the front splitter exactly.

From the FFR web site as I ordered it:
Product Description


Use this fiberglass Street Spoiler for some added rear downforce and a great look. We tested this spoiler in the wind tunnel along with the other 818 aero components and found it to produce a great balance of downforce with the Carbon Fiber Street Splitter. The Street Spoiler is made of hand-laid fiberglass and can be installed using screws, rivets, or double-sided tape.


Now I just have to figure out how to mount it. It's hollow inside with only a small, .75" long, flange on back side only. The picture on FFR website shows a flange on both sides. My initial thoughts are to glass in some nuts that I can screw into from inside the trunk lid.

This is a picture of the two pieces side by side.
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[matteo92065]

My kids 'helping' me last night. These are their first holes drilled in real metal. It was funny watching my 8 year old daughter trying to put in an 1/8" rivet.
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[Hindsight]

I'm not 100% positive but when I ordered mine and talked with the guy at FF, I'm pretty esure he said it was a fiberglass spoiler with one layer of carbon on top. On a part this small, it really doesn't matter if it's fiberglass with an overlay of carbon..... the carbon sure looks nice though. Will be quite a while before I get to the install. I was thinking about using an adhesive to attach it.

[Aero STI]

I have the pure fiberglass version and I just riveted it on for now. For final install I was planning to use some epoxy, then re-rivet, and blend the edges with filler.

http://i.imgur.com/Ud112hOl.jpg

[wleehendrick]

Nice! My spoiler is early vintage, black fiberglass. I got the whole street aero kit, the splitter, skirts and diffuser are carbon fiber. So my plan is to paint the speedhumps black, probably the spoiler too. so the theme will be cf below, black on top. I'm going to try VHB tape rather than riviting.

[GUNS]

Did FFR change how they do the splitter, diffuser, and side skirts? The quality looks much better than what I received.

[svanlare]

I missed when you started this thread. Congrats on getting the cars. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with both cars as it looks like they will end up very different.

[matteo92065]

Did FFR change how they do the splitter, diffuser, and side skirts? The quality looks much better than what I received.

There was a post on another build thread a few weeks ago that someone actually got 1 old version and 1 new version side skirt. I guess the old versions were more textured with dull finish.

The finish on both of my parts is glossy and the rear is 100% carbon.

[Mitch Wright]

If either you or Mechie decide to sell the hardware for the shift linkage I am interested.

[matteo92065]

Caster plates were discussed on this forum and on Subi forums, so I made some. I went a little overboard, just because I could.
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[matteo92065]

I wanted a different steering wheel, but the Subaru Roll Connector will not fit. The Steering Roll Connector not only passes through all the steering wheel controls, but also cancels the turn signal. I made a few 3-D prints of an adapter, now my turn signal cancels with a Momo wheel. Yay!
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[matteo92065]

I'm putting some of the interior sheet metal in to get a feel for where I can put stuff. The passenger foot area seems really cramped for no reason. I don't think two adult male size 11 shoes will fit side by side.
The left side sheet metal takes a 30 degreeish bend into the foot well. Is this to make room for all the factory wire harness? I plan on eliminating all the factory fuse boxes, so I will not need so much room behind the dash panel.

There is also a flange on the top and bottom edge of the panel. The bottom flange gets riveted to the floor, i guess. I don't know what to do with the top flange. It seems to just float there, just below the dash board.
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[Jaime]

It's probably there to stiffen the top edge so it doesn't flap around.

[flynntuna]

While your in a fabrication mode, you can make one of these for your passengers comfort.

http://www.sparcousa.com/product/navigator

[matteo92065]

Doing my part to follow Rasmus's build (weight reduction)...

Aluminum mirror mounts: .66 lbs saved
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[FFRSpec72]

I'm putting some of the interior sheet metal in to get a feel for where I can put stuff.

So what did you decide as I'm in the same boat, seems like the fuse boxes is why the side is bent, I don't see any value in taking up the space if you have nothing there.

[matteo92065]

I straightened the passenger foot well sheet metal and made it hit the front firewall at 90 deg. Had to trim 3-4"? off the front to get it to fit. Now the passenger foot well is as big as it can get. I do agree that the extra internal room was for the factory wiring harness. I will be rewiring to eliminate the factory fuse boxes, so I will not need all that dead, useless internal space.

[Mechie3]

My fuse box is currently loosely stuffed in the tunnel. I don't think that piece has to bend out for any reason.

[RM1SepEx]

Doing my part to follow Rasmus's build (weight reduction)...

Aluminum mirror mounts: .66 lbs saved
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I just went with these, even lighter!

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APR GT3 http://aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=91&Itemid= You can pick them up for less than $200

[svanlare]

If you don't mind, what seats did you end up putting in the two cars?

[matteo92065]

I am using some very narrow Corbeau seats that I found off Craigslist. I'm on a budget. I am also making it so that I can put in the 06 WRX seats. I fit in the Corbeau seats just fine, but anyone bigger than me is out of luck. I want to be able to give my boss and my Mother (and anyone else) a ride every-now-and-then.
The 'hard way' is getting some very nice Sparco seats. I don't know the model, but I'll take pictures next time they are in the car(s).

[matteo92065]

I just went with these, even lighter!

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APR GT3 http://aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=91&Itemid= You can pick them up for less than $200

I'll check into those, Thanks!

[matteo92065]

Had a nice relaxing evening working on the car. Listened to some music, welded, cut metal, had a little beer.

These are some pictures of how my passenger sheetmetal came out.
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I was having such a good time I had to take a selfie to capture the moment....:o
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[svanlare]

Looks like the cars are coming together nicely. Thanks for the seat info.

[AZPete]

That's why these are so much fun! Wonderful evenings and weekends where we can step back and admire our work and take photos of it. Weekdays are for planning the next steps and posting photos.
BTW, nice work on the K-Tuned shifter mount.

[FFRSpec72]

I straightened the passenger foot well sheet metal and made it hit the front firewall at 90 deg. Had to trim 3-4"? off the front to get it to fit. Now the passenger foot well is as big as it can get. I do agree that the extra internal room was for the factory wiring harness. I will be rewiring to eliminate the factory fuse boxes, so I will not need all that dead, useless internal space.

So why does the drivers side console panel only go half the way up and the passenger side console panlel goes what looks kike all the way up to dash area? Did you ever figure out what the passenger side top flange attaches to ?

[flynntuna]

Had a nice relaxing evening working on the car. Listened to some music, welded, cut metal, had a little beer.

These are some pictures of how my passenger sheetmetal came out.
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I was having such a good time I had to take a selfie to capture the moment....:o
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I thought I recognized you.

[matteo92065]

I finished all the ABS brake lines and valves. Yes! Hopefully, no leaks.
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I installed two proportioning valves like some other people have talked about. I installed them under the dash so that I can reach them to adjust. I think its strange that FFR recommends them under the hood. What a pain to actually adjust it!

Oh, yea.... Remember that strange cut out on the Drivers foot box sheet metal? Well I put my valves lined up with that cut out. Now it looks like it was suppose to be there for hand clearance. :roll eyes:

[matteo92065]

I installed the dog bone motor mount. Anti-torque?
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[matteo92065]

I think I've installed that damn dash board 15 times tonight alone. Trying to get it just right. I thought I had it all good last week, until I tried to put in the gauge cluster tonight. It hit in three different spots when trying to install it per instructions.
I ended up up putting a spacer in the top center screw to keep it a little higher in the dash so that the ODO reset button doesn't rub on the surround.
I had to cut off the corners of the steering column mount because it was hitting the bottom of the gauge cluster. Lastly I had to run the bottom two screws in the opposite direction from the instructions to keep them from hitting the 1x1 steel tube.
When I finally finished the gauge install... There is a gap on the left and right side of the cluster. Is this normal or are people trimming the dash to get it to fit better? Or when it's all installed you can't notice the gap?

And left my mark on the inside of the dash. Who knows when the next person will see it.
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[matteo92065]

I've been working on wiring. and working. and working.

My goal was to do something between what the FFR manual says and what iWire would do. Doing it this way should be easier for me and others to troubleshoot, as all the Subaru wire colors and names are unchanged. So far I am very pleased with the results.

The biggest change to the harness was to remove the two large fuse panels. Then replace them with one of these fuse panels. (http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46354/RFRM-FUSE-RELAY-2-88-MM-DUAL/) Since most of what is on the original panels is no longer being used, I don't see the need of keeping them around and trying to place them.
I did keep the individual relays like B102, B103, B46, B47, B309 and the F27 relay block.

I'm down to 23 fuses/breakers, and 5 relays.

This is a picture of my panel with call outs.
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This is shows more detail:
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[matteo92065]

Start with an Invidia V2 Downpipe Bellmouth. Cut it up. Reweld it.
Going to try straight pipe first, and add muffler if needed.

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[STiPWRD]

Would you happen to have a drawing or CAD model of your linkage mount? I love that design. On the other hand, if you're thinking about selling them, consider me an interested buyer.

[matteo92065]

Would you happen to have a drawing or CAD model of your linkage mount? I love that design. On the other hand, if you're thinking about selling them, consider me an interested buyer.

pm sent

[Hobby Racer]

Would you happen to have a drawing or CAD model of your linkage mount? I love that design. On the other hand, if you're thinking about selling them, consider me an interested buyer.

I'd like a copy of the CAD model also if your ok giving it out!

[matteo92065]

I'd like a copy of the CAD model also if your ok giving it out!

Hit me up again in a couple weeks. I don't have any problems giving it out, I just want to drive it first before I give it out. I'd like to make sure it works ;) I'll post my progress here.

[Mechie3]

He lives! I've been wondering what you've been up to. I think most people disappear during the wiring phase.

[bbjones121]

Any more pics of the hard way interior? I love your idea of sloping the center console.

[matteo92065]

Ahhh, HELL!
I've been putting in a lot of hours on my car. Got everything connected and fluids filled. The car turns over, but does not start.
I pulled a spark plug and coil pack, and put the threads to ground and cranked the engine. I have no spark. :( The coil packs have power and ground.
I've been looking for loose grounds and such.
OBDII works, so I know the ECU is alive.
Power appears to be going where it should go.
Suggestions?
its a 2006 WRX

[matteo92065]

Never mind! got it. it was a loose Crankshaft Position Sensor. I actually rechecked it because it was one of faults on the OBDII scan.
Fired right up! Does not idle so good. It stumbles around below 2000 rpm. After 3000 RPM it wants to GO!
I will get to drive it this weekend. Yay. :cool:

[matteo92065]

Oh, yea!
It drives.
It drives quickly.
Now for the body.
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[wleehendrick]

Awesome... congrats!

So how loud is the straight pipe... You want a muffler yet? ;)

[flynntuna]

Nice!

[matteo92065]

The straight pipe is not loud at all at idle. It does get too loud above 3k. It sounds good, but just too loud. I have a muffler, but am waiting on the body to be installed to know where to cut the pipe.

[STiPWRD]

Looking great!

[wleehendrick]

The straight pipe is not loud at all at idle. It does get too loud above 3k. It sounds good, but just too loud. I have a muffler, but am waiting on the body to be installed to know where to cut the pipe.

That's similar to what I did (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16528-The-Exhaust-Thread-Post-your-Pics-amp-Knowledge&p=185227&viewfull=1#post185227), but I already mounted a Flowmaster Super 10. I'll trim my tailpipe after to body is on.

It's a tiny can, so I expect it to be loud, but hope it's a reasonable loud. :o

[Brando]

Yea Matt! Rematch at AutoX
Hurry up :)

[xxguitarist]

We had to get creative (http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/49089661-F1D4-4557-A5F4-1D19609187B6_zpsu9ekhrin.jpg) to fit our needs for a cat/resonator (V-bands, easy swap) and a muffler so we felt confident that we'd pass sound tech at some local auto-x events.

[Mechie3]

I have a built in muffler. ;)

What ended up being your idle problem? Glad to see you got it up and running!

[matteo92065]

I have a built in muffler. ;)

What ended up being your idle problem? Glad to see you got it up and running!

You were right. An intake leak. I unplugged that MAF sensor and it ran much better. I then pressurized the intake and I could hear the air leaking out between the TGV and intake manifold. Ordered new gaskets and all should be fine now.

I really appreciate the advise you provided.

[matteo92065]

We had to get creative (http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/49089661-F1D4-4557-A5F4-1D19609187B6_zpsu9ekhrin.jpg) to fit our needs for a cat/resonator (V-bands, easy swap) and a muffler so we felt confident that we'd pass sound tech at some local auto-x events.

Just ordered v-bands. I'm going to do the same.

[Scargo]

While pressurizing the intake may point out leaks (under pressure) it is not the same as testing it under a vacuum. It's unnatural for how it performs. There are methods for finding leaks that are more relevant. Spraying some fluids around intake joints or potential leak paths will raise the RPM if there is a leak. I'd look into that approach.
V-bands are great for when you need to swap out exhaust parts.

[matteo92065]

experimenting with video

https://plus.google.com/111981428899889787639/posts/PCrcn6t3v4g

[matteo92065]

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[matteo92065]

I'm building the car in my shed which is down a gravel path. I couldn't take the risk of trying to drive the car up the gravel path as its first test drive. We pulled it up with the tractor, and my son, age 10, is technically the first person to drive our 818. Father-in-law helped with steering directions. I think they did 12 zig-zags in 75 feet :rolleyes:
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[AZPete]

Congrats on the milestone! That first photo with the smiling first driver is a keeper!

[wleehendrick]

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I also customized my tranny block-off plate (satin black powdercoat and laser etched logo), but didn't think of putting the chassis number on. Nice touch!

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We pulled it up with the tractor, and my son, age 10, is technically the first person to drive our 818. Father-in-law helped with steering directions. I think they did 12 zig-zags in 75 feet :rolleyes:

By that reasoning, my wife was the first to 'drive' mine... When I brought mine home recently, she steered while my friend and I rolled off the flatbed into my garage.

[matteo92065]

I also customized my tranny block-off plate (satin black powdercoat and laser etched logo), but didn't think of putting the chassis number on. Nice touch!

By that reasoning, my wife was the first to 'drive' mine... When I brought mine home recently, she steered while my friend and I rolled off the flatbed into my garage.

So that is what happens to all black powder coat when hit with CO2 laser? The paint will still hold up to the weather? We have one at work, but only use it on anodized aluminum.
and, driving is driving. She was the first.:p

[matteo92065]

Congrats on the milestone! That first photo with the smiling first driver is a keeper!

Yes it is!,
--very proud dad.

[matteo92065]

This was at K1 speed when Mechie visited San Diego. Mechie in front, followed by Brando, and finally me. Not to brag too much, but, the last of three races we placed the reverse of the picture below. :cool:
full disclosure: I was slowest for the first two races.:rolleyes:
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[Mechie3]

Yeah...I had problems the last race. Some of them came in the form of slow driving females that stop mid turn so I get a warning flag. :rolleyes:

Your house looks to be out of the way. That's nice!

[Tamra]

Yeah...I had problems the last race. Some of them came in the form of slow driving females that stop mid turn so I get a warning flag. :rolleyes:

Your house looks to be out of the way. That's nice!

If we ever raced against each other, I'd make a bet that they would be waving the blue flag at you... :)



The car looks great and cute kid! That one should definitely go on the wall!

[Mechie3]

If we ever raced against each other, I'd make a bet that they would be waving the blue flag at you... :)

Maybe in karts, not in F500 ;) I'm ok at karts. I do better (much much better) in my F500. I have several driving quirks that work well in F500 that hinder me in karts. I didn't mean to imply all girls are slow drivers, just in this particular race there were a couple that would hit the brakes in the middle of a full throttle zone. You'd be 6" behind trying not to hit them them when they hit the brakes "BAM!" and then the track officials get mad at you for hitting them but not mad at them for being stupid. It was close to closing time and they tried to cram too many people into 1 race.

edit: There was also a guy that was doing something similar, tapping his brakes right at the apex. At least he didn't do a full on stop in the middle of a turn.

[wleehendrick]

So that is what happens to all black powder coat when hit with CO2 laser? The paint will still hold up to the weather?

I took it to a trophy shop and they did the laser etch really cheap for me; the laser blows off the powder coat and etches a matte white finish into the aluminum. I'd think the powdercoat should hold up fine down there, but wear and tear is why I went with this process rather than a vinyl logo or paint.


and, driving is driving. She was the first.:p

I'm not going to let her know that; she'll never let me get over it. I will be first to press the throttle, though!


Your house looks to be out of the way. That's nice!

Matt's location says Ramona, about 15 miles inland from where I am. From the photos, I'd guess he's off Highland Valley Rd, north of Mount Woodsen... some nice property out there, and up and coming wine country... Matt, you ever try to grow any grapes?

[longislandwrx]

let's see some more pictures of that shift linkage!

[matteo92065]

let's see some more pictures of that shift linkage!

Still working on it.

[matteo92065]

Why do I get such satisfaction out of building stuff that are such low priorities?

I made a recessed license plate holder like Aloha did on his black 818. But I did it with what tools I had available. First designed it on sollidworks, then made a 3-d print of it. Tonight I roughed it in. I really like how its going to look.
It has some function too. The plate illumination lights are tucked in so you can't see them. The sides of the plate are vented to help keep engine compartment cooler.

I think I'll just clear coat the exposed side, and then reinforce the inside with some fiberglass. I'll use the same FFR mesh for the vents. From far away it looks regular black, but closer up you can see all the layer marks from the 3-d printer.
39575
39576
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39578

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great job Matt, I like it.
Michael and I were discussing something like this at dinner tonight. With the rear radiator we are going to vent most of the top section.
Bob

[matteo92065]

Thanks Bob!
I should now put some more attention into the hood, fender, bumper, windshield alignment. :rolleyes:
39580

[Mechie3]

Definitely looks more OEM.

[svanlare]

Very nice job on the license plate, looks great

[matteo92065]

I was going to have two sets of wheels. The stock 2006 WRX painted black, then some craigslist xxr wheels that have a 114.3 B.C. I could run hub spacers to get the WRX wheels out the needed distance to match the fenders. I could run different adapter/spacers to get the XXR wheels to match the rear fenders. But it looks like the front XXR wheels will stick out too far with the 1” adapters. It looks like it needs to be about a full 1” in.

So, how about I put on FRONT STI spindles & hubs? This would let me bolt on the 114.3 XXR wheels directly on the hub. This should put the spacing just about right for the front. For the rear I’ll stick with the adapter/spacer on the WRX hubs. I will not be able to use my 06 WRX wheels any longer, and that is no big loss.
As I understand it; I will have to get front STI spindles, front STI rotors, and modify the FFR suspension piece that goes to the upper ball joint.
The STI uses a bolt on unit bearing so changing out studs will be super easy. The ABS should still bolt right up (I think). The red 4-pot 06 WRX brake calipers should bolt up. I don’t think I’ll have to run the outer CV to hold bearings in place (right?) due to the different bearing design.

Now what STI years can I use? ‘06-‘07? Or ‘05-‘13?


Last weekend was the first time I had all of the body on. It's not all mounted yet, but getting closer. Has anyone noticed how much harder it is to work on the engine with the body installed? And when installing the side panels on correctly, it will not come off easily. I will try to use riv-nuts where ever possible.
400814008240083

[Mechie3]

I took off my rear bumper to test fit the AJW exhaust and realized how much easier it was to simply step "inside" and work on my AWIC mounts. You can definitely use 05-07 STI uprights. Not too familiar with the GR setups (08-14).

[matteo92065]

I don't know if all aftermarket steering wheels have the same copper ring for the horn, but here is how we fixed it.
We used a carbon brush from McMaster, #65705K29, and a 3-D printed housing. The 3-D part fits snugly into the Subaru plastic piece just behind the steering wheel. Its held in with a little epoxy, but I think it will stay there with nothing.
(Its the RED part)
40087 40088

[matteo92065]

I tried to match the logo on the STI heat exchanger. What do you think? I'll put one on the intercooler too.
40114

[matteo92065]

I received the 07 STI knuckles and rotors I ordered. I read that I should be fine with my 4pot red WRX calipers on STI hubs and rotors. The new STI rotors are huge and THICK. About 30mm thick. The stock WRX rotors are about 25mm(?) thick. I just got all the stuff in last night, and have not had a chance to install it, but It looks like the new rotors will not fit in the old calipers. How do I fix this?
I see my options as, getting the STI Brembo brake calipers or finding a rotor that will work on 5x114 circle but fit the STI hub.
Or maybe they will fit?

40618 40619 40620 40623

I did finish my rear emblem and exhaust.
40621 40622

[Scargo]

I would look at the diameter you need for the four-pots you have and go from there. I would look at Girodisc or Stoptech and two-piece floating rotors. Those stock rotors are crazy heavy.

[matteo92065]

Scargo, I'll have to call these places tomorrow, as I can't find anything online. Its all standard fitment stuff.

I've started to install the new stuff to see what it's like. The FFR knuckle bolt on extension "IFS Bracket" (on page 83) is actually a close fit with one welded on plate removed.
The WRX knuckle upper piece is .99" wide,
The STI is 1.19" wide.
Thats a difference of ~.2"
The FFR is very close to .99" wide.
Each inner plate to the "IFS bracket" is ~.120" thick

Is it better to remove one plate and have a little more caster and bend out the bracket ~.02" or remove both plates and squish the bracket down ~.1" ?
I'll remove .02" of material from the inside to make it fit better.

40624406254062640627

And, I bought two different years STI knuckles. One has a large chunk of metal cast into it and one does not.

[STiPWRD]

What about replicating the inner plate out of thinner shim stock, or maybe some washers? That way there's no need to bend the bracket and you still get a tight fit around the knuckle. As far as the brakes, I'd just buy brembos and sell the 4-pots. You'll end up losing some money buy won't have to deal with the rotors.

[icky]

The one with the red is the 04 sti (knuckles have the same part # for all impreza that year) and the bottom one with the bolts on back is the 05-07 sti with better wheel bearings.

[matteo92065]

The one with the red is the 04 sti (knuckles have the same part # for all impreza that year) and the bottom one with the bolts on back is the 05-07 sti with better wheel bearings.

I'm sorry, I didn't take a picture with the two different knuckles. The picture that you are talking about is my original 06WRX(top) and a 05STI(bottom). I need to put up a picture of the 05STI and 07STI, they are a little different, but functionally the same.?

I'm going to stick with the 05-07STI set up. I'm looking for used front Brembo calipers right now. I don't want to spend the money on the two piece rotors. ...yet. Since I'm buying used calipers, and have new rotors, I'd like to buy new pads. Can someone give me a recommendation?

[matteo92065]

What about replicating the inner plate out of thinner shim stock, or maybe some washers? That way there's no need to bend the bracket and you still get a tight fit around the knuckle. As far as the brakes, I'd just buy brembos and sell the 4-pots. You'll end up losing some money buy won't have to deal with the rotors.

I removed material from the left over (front) shim until it fit perfectly. I will get the brembos. Thanks.

[EODTech87]

The LGT front calipers are 30mm wide and can be found pretty cheap.

[matteo92065]

I have been working on random stuff for the past couple of weeks.
Wheels and brakes; go my STI knuckles bolted on with Brembo Brakes.
4138741388

Louvers installed on one side
413894139041391

Mirrors installed with aluminum bracket
41392

Did some camping
41393

[Kurk818]

Looking at your front sway bar, you may want to cut down the end link rod to lower the end of the sway bar. It created rubbing issues with my tires. Of course im running 255's in the front tho. I have the same Brembo setup btw.

Nice work

[matteo92065]

Looking at your front sway bar, you may want to cut down the end link rod to lower the end of the sway bar. It created rubbing issues with my tires. Of course im running 255's in the front tho. I have the same Brembo setup btw.

Nice work
Is that on 18" wheels? How did you solve the rubbing?

[matteo92065]

I'm still working on the STI knuckles. The front CV is different from STI to WRX. I didn't want to buy more axles just for the outer CV and I want to keep my ABS functioning. So here was my solution.

415764157441575

Its two pieces of aluminum with a 1/2-13 bolt connecting them. I pressed off the old tone ring and pressed it onto the aluminum fake axle. As a side benefit this assembly is supper light compared to the solid steel stub axle it replaced. It still keeps the bearings together even though I'm not sure its as critical as the WRX system since it is a unit type bearing.

[matteo92065]

Trunk is nice.
41637
41638

[matteo92065]

Fixed my k-tuned shifter linkage.
41639
41640

[Mechie3]

Did you just change the bell crank from vertical to horizontal in order to not have the shift arm sticking up? I like your front knuckle solution. Too bad the WRX need that piece to hold the bearing together.

[matteo92065]

Yes the bell crank is horizontal. And additional arm is going down at trans shaft.
The k-tuned shifter is opposite than the mr2 shifter in the left-right motion. It was really annoying driving like that.

[matteo92065]

Did you just change the bell crank from vertical to horizontal in order to not have the shift arm sticking up? I like your front knuckle solution. Too bad the WRX need that piece to hold the bearing together.

But it does still hold the bearings together. It is not as strong as stock, but what is needed? I think the stock is what it is because it's doing other things. I'll look up what a 1/2" bolt into aluminum can hold.

[chedda]

wait, there is a trunk?

[Quiny]

Any chance of the exhaust melting the plastic trunk?

[matteo92065]

yes, there is a trunk. It's from FFR, there is a thread about it, and its on the parts web site.
My exhaust is farther from the trunk than the FFR exhaust. Mine will be wraped.
There is about 2-3" clearance above the transmission, and ~6-8" above my exhaust. The floor of the trunk is not flat, there is extra room for the exhaust.

And, Yes, there is a chance of the trunk melting. I think it is very unlikely. The trunk is fiberglass, not plastic, so it will not melt, but burn if it were to get hot enough. There is plenty of clearance and plenty of air flow to keep temperatures in control.

One more point that was brought up in a another trunk thread; if you look at the shape of the rear of the trunk you can see it is really slanted. There is a lot of room between the body and trunk surfaces for venting in the license plate area if you think that's necessary (I do).

[matteo92065]

Just because I like this picture. 41938

[longislandwrx]

love your linkage.

[matteo92065]

Will this project ever end? 41981

[matteo92065]

I know other people have done them, but there just is not that much detail in how they did it or what the challenges were. I'll add a little more to the existing knowledge base.
I mounted mine perpendicular to where most retrofits are mounted. I thought this location would be more out of the way, and the mounting tabs were smaller and easier to make. I still don't know how the hood will fit, but I could not get the wiper arm any closer to the windshield, its a 1/4" away the whole sweep. I thought I would have to modify the sweep angle, but did not. The outer tip comes within 3/4" of the windshield frame on drivers side. The link connecting the motor arm to the wiper arm is the same length as the distance between centers.
I used arm with the shorter blade installed from donor (I don't know which was drivers and which was passenger arms), then installed the longer of the two blades. Drivers arm? with Passenger blade?
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[AZPete]

Thanks for posting your wiper install. That's on my list to do.

[matteo92065]

Look what I got in the mail today!
More fiberglass cutting.42403

[matteo92065]

Bedazzled 42481

[Tamra]

Wow, that looks fantastic!


.... wait, did you get registered?!?!?!?

[matteo92065]

No. This Monday I go to DMV. That's an old plate for fit testing.

[Tamra]

Good luck today!

[matteo92065]

Just got my SB100 number from DMV!!! According to DMV I got the last one for 2015. The odd thing is my number is 2015-150. Maybe they are not giving 500 this year!?
Anyhow I have 90 days to drive it around.
Next stops: CHP, BAR, brake & tail.

YES!!!

[matteo92065]

42549

[bbjones121]

Congrats!

[wleehendrick]

Just got my SB100 number from DMV!!! According to DMV I got the last one for 2015.

Congrats... but that means I have to wait til 2016. :( I hadn't started my paperwork yet because my progress has slowed so much recently (we bought a house and all my time/money has been spent on that, not the 818). Oh well, I'll definitely be ready to go in January!


The odd thing is my number is 2015-150. Maybe they are not giving 500 this year!?

I've heard the #'s aren't sequential.

[JeromeS13]

Just got my SB100 number from DMV!!! According to DMV I got the last one for 2015. The odd thing is my number is 2015-150. Maybe they are not giving 500 this year!?
Anyhow I have 90 days to drive it around.
Next stops: CHP, BAR, brake & tail.

YES!!!

What indicates that you got the last one?

[matteo92065]

The dmv lady (supervisor) who called Sacramento said I got the last one. I actually questioned it, in a nice way, and she said that is what the person in Sacramento said no more and no less about it. I asked about my number 150, and she didn't know anything about it. No one in the Poway dmv had done a sb100. It was a learning experience.

My boss is not going to be happy either (the hard way) ;(

[Mechie3]

My boss is not going to be happy either (the hard way) ;(

Sorry Bossman, but I lol'd. :D

Congrats Matt!

[matteo92065]

Sorry Bossman, but I lol'd. :D

Congrats Matt!

I broke the news to him. He was OK with it. Gives him lots of time to do his thing. I think he was a little relieved actually.

[matteo92065]

I just got back from my first test drive on the road. I did a 10 mile loop that had very little traffic so I could test out the systems.

I have a very long drive way that ends up on a State Hwy. The speed limit goes to 60 with no merge lane. This car is FAST! First gear goes away in a split second, once in second gear you have to be very careful, as it will want to spin and point you in different directions. Even with third gear you really have to ease into the boost because the tires will spin in 3rd if not careful (235/40R18 Falken Azenis RT615K). Once up to speed its a challenge to mind the traffic, speed, gauges, funny noises ect. The sound of the car is great, any time the gas pedal is pushed you can hear the sucking of the intake, and then when getting off throttle you hear blow off valve. I installed the turbosmart 50/50 BOV, to get some noise out of it. When cruising along with very little throttle input, it's a constant mixture of all the intake noises.

I could not get the rear tires to lock up. I have red rear WRX two pot calipers in the rear, and STI Brembo 4 pot w/yellow stuff pads in the front. I played with the proportioning valves, and it got better, but never able to lock up rears. I does not take a lot of pedal force to bring the car down in speed quickly. This car is FAST! I do have ABS, but it is unplugged until I get it balanced better. Maybe I need the Wilwood rear brakes ;)

The seat belts suck. I have the sedan units in my car. They stay locked up almost all the time. I could not even use them after I got out to do a quick walk around the car. I have 5 point harnesses (on the shelf), but want to keep the standard units while working out the bugs, and giving rides.

I have my stock Impreza seats in the car until I can get all the inspections done. My other seats are really narrow, and might upset an inspector or two that I will be seeing shortly. So for now my Impreza seats are as low as I can get them, and are still way too high. I cut off all of the Subaru metal possible, and mounted them very low on my own brackets; still too high. The top of the window frame is blocking too much and my head is level with the role bar. I'm 5'10"

The inner fenders make quite a bit of noise when going over bumps. They are attached everywhere the manual says to attach and then some. They are just a little too big and floppy for 3 points of attachment and resting on fiberglass body. I'll have to do something about that.

This car is FAST! Every time I ease into the throttle I have to ask myself if the rear end breaks loose, how am I going to handle it.

The shifting is really close. I have not driven a sports car in a long time, and even then they have all be budget cars. The action is very crisp, but very close; about 3" from 1st to 2nd?

My reverse lights are inconsistent. I don't think its a ground problem, but a transmission switch. If I wiggle the shifter just a little bit the light will flicker.

My stock front radiator, radiator cap and stock overflow tank seems to be puking a lot. I don't have my hood on yet, as I am patiently waiting for a front hinge from Zero DB :) so I can see it overflowing. Should I not have that front tank? Is the cap bad? Do I just have too much fluid in there to begin with? Just one of the things I have to work out.
Speaking of Zero DB, I did install the front hood louvers and installed onto car just for testing. They look great, and let out a surprising amount of air when the fans are on. While the car is idling I can manually turn on the fans (for the purpose of cooling the AWIC Heat Exchanger) and you can really feel how much air is going out where it should. There is just no way the FFR vents would allow that kind of air flow. Great product.

I still have a small oil leak that is causing some smoking on the headers, so the body is going to have to be removed, AGAIN! :mad:
My second MAF sensor didn't seem to fix my idle problem. The car barely runs with it plugged in, and runs great when unplugged. Another thing on the list.

I do have an intake temp gauges installed, and it showed ~140F and ~80F, pre and post AWIC respectively. Ambient was ~80F. That was while romping on it, stock WRX tune. I'm glad I didn't waste time and money on trying to get the Air to Air intercooler working.

It felt good to take the car out, open it up, and all while being legal.

[Tamra]

I could not get the rear tires to lock up. I have red rear WRX two pot calipers in the rear, and STI Brembo 4 pot w/yellow stuff pads in the front. I played with the proportioning valves, and it got better, but never able to lock up rears. I does not take a lot of pedal force to bring the car down in speed quickly. This car is FAST! I do have ABS, but it is unplugged until I get it balanced better. Maybe I need the Wilwood rear brakes ;)

Your brake pads are probably not bedded in yet, so I wouldn't change anything until you get them solidly bedded in. We have the Yellow Stuff pads with just the 02 WRX calipers, and they will lock the brakes up easily (although I couldn't lock them up before they bedded in, now I have to be careful when braking). Otherwise, adjust the bias toward the rear quite a bit - that's what we had to do.




My stock front radiator, radiator cap and stock overflow tank seems to be puking a lot. I don't have my hood on yet, as I am patiently waiting for a front hinge from Zero DB :) so I can see it overflowing. Should I not have that front tank? Is the cap bad? Do I just have too much fluid in there to begin with? Just one of the things I have to work out.

The stock overflow tank does not have enough capacity for the 818. It also tends to slosh out a lot. You can see the post on our build thread here. (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16067-Andrew-amp-Tamra-s-818SR-EM-Autox-Hybrid-Destroked-Long-Rod-Build&p=194747&viewfull=1#post194747) We replaced ours with one like this:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/6DC66F2E-242E-47B7-B9FE-038876AA4582_zpsyicqjqfe.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/6DC66F2E-242E-47B7-B9FE-038876AA4582_zpsyicqjqfe.jpg.html)





I still have a small oil leak that is causing some smoking on the headers, so the body is going to have to be removed, AGAIN! :mad:
My second MAF sensor didn't seem to fix my idle problem. The car barely runs with it plugged in, and runs great when unplugged. Another thing on the list.



It took our wrapped headers quite awhile to quit smoking after some oil dripped on them when we replaced our oil pump. Like, over 30 minutes of idling and a dyno session to burn everything off the headers, turbo (it came pre-oiled), top of engine, etc. and that was after we had wiped everything. If you aren't positive you have a leak, it could be worth waiting to see if it burns off. Just keep a fire extinguisher handy, just in case.



This car is FAST! Every time I ease into the throttle I have to ask myself if the rear end breaks loose, how am I going to handle it.


I would recommend taking the car out to an autocross so you can learn how to handle it when the rear breaks loose. The worst you'll hit there is a cone or two!


Congratulations on the first real drive!

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the milestone! Must be a great feeling. I can't wait to do the same in mine.

[Mechie3]

My stock front radiator, radiator cap and stock overflow tank seems to be puking a lot. I don't have my hood on yet, as I am patiently waiting for a front hinge from Zero DB :) so I can see it overflowing. Should I not have that front tank? Is the cap bad? Do I just have too much fluid in there to begin with? Just one of the things I have to work out.
Speaking of Zero DB, I did install the front hood louvers and installed onto car just for testing. They look great, and let out a surprising amount of air when the fans are on. While the car is idling I can manually turn on the fans (for the purpose of cooling the AWIC Heat Exchanger) and you can really feel how much air is going out where it should. There is just no way the FFR vents would allow that kind of air flow. Great product.

I should be able to machine the last two pieces for the hinge today. They're identical parts, so only one setup and I saved all my fixture plates. :)

For the coolant, I thought someone had commented that the cap on the turbo tank can suck water back in, but the cap on the radiator can't? I might be making stuff up. That would mean that it just keeps filling until it overflows if that's correct.

Glad you like the hood louvers.

[Tamra]

As long as he has both the radiator and the turbo coolant reservoir, it should operate normally (assuming it is hooked up in the OEM configuration), as the turbo coolant reservoir pulls coolant from the radiator overflow. However, with the 818 having so much more coolant than the WRX, the OEM overflow tank is too small. Also, in the 818 it is angled vs upright in the WRX, so it tends to splash out more easily.

In our case, we deleted the turbo coolant reservoir, so we had to swap the caps so that the radiator could pull back in the coolant when it cooled.

[Mechie3]

Maybe that's what I was thinking of. The factory config has the turbo tank going to the overflow via the line on top of the radiator. If people are running the overflow in the front then it can't pull back in because the turbo tank no longer connects to the front.

[Tamra]

Maybe that's what I was thinking of. The factory config has the turbo tank going to the overflow via the line on top of the radiator. If people are running the overflow in the front then it can't pull back in because the turbo tank no longer connects to the front.

I hadn't thought about that! That is a good point!

[svanlare]

Congrats on getting through the SB-100 and the first real drive. If they are out for the year, guess I need to make sure to finish up in the first half of next year!

[matteo92065]

As long as he has both the radiator and the turbo coolant reservoir, it should operate normally (assuming it is hooked up in the OEM configuration), as the turbo coolant reservoir pulls coolant from the radiator overflow. However, with the 818 having so much more coolant than the WRX, the OEM overflow tank is too small. Also, in the 818 it is angled vs upright in the WRX, so it tends to splash out more easily.

In our case, we deleted the turbo coolant reservoir, so we had to swap the caps so that the radiator could pull back in the coolant when it cooled.

I ordered the new coolant tank for the front.
I need to take a closer look at my caps, and which one belongs where. Currently the rear reservoir tank, fed by standard radiator cap, is lowering every drive, and the front tank, fed by one of the stock subaru caps, is always getting fuller and appears to overflow.

[matteo92065]

Congrats on getting through the SB-100 and the first real drive. If they are out for the year, guess I need to make sure to finish up in the first half of next year!

Thanks, and sorry. :rolleyes:

I wonder if that kills the Arial Atom, Catfish and other cars for the year? I'm pretty sure thats how they get street legal too.

[Mechie3]

I ordered the new coolant tank for the front.
I need to take a closer look at my caps, and which one belongs where. Currently the rear reservoir tank, fed by standard radiator cap, is lowering every drive, and the front tank, fed by one of the stock subaru caps, is always getting fuller and appears to overflow.

That was my concern. It sounds almost like we need to either have the turbo tank style cap front and rear or we need to seal off the radiator so it can't overflow. not sure what other effect that has.

[Tamra]

If you have the rear reservoir tank connected to the front overflow tank (as like OEM), then it should suck the coolant back in, from the front overflow to the turbo reservoir, when the car cools down. If they are disconnected, then the front will overflow and the rear will empty = bad.

I'm not sure what solution other people have found who have both tanks- perhaps running a radiator cap for a non turbo subaru, picked up at any parts store, on the radiator and the turbo reservoir would solve the problem, as it would permit both to overflow and pull vacuum as required. The PSI is different on the two caps though, so not sure how that would affect things for someone with a traditional setup.

[matteo92065]

To clear up what I have, I found two pictures. Currently both, the front cap and the rear cap, are connected to separate Subaru overflow reservoir tanks.
For the rear, I have this:42588

For the front I have exactly Mechie3's set up: 42589

I need to think about this for a little bit, but you might be right Tamra, I may need to connect it back to the Subaru way, running a hose from front radiator and tee into rear reservoir. I thought I wouldn't have to since I don't have the stock turbo reservoir cap, I now have the Moorso standard cap, and they are different sizes/styles so I can't swap caps.

[07FIREBLADE]

They are suppose to go in sequence. I'm going to have to call the Sacramento DMV and confirm that there are no more. There should be 350 more to go if you really got 150. If that's true there are a lot of people who are going to be pretty upset.

[matteo92065]

They are suppose to go in sequence. I'm going to have to call the Sacramento DMV and confirm that there are no more. There should be 350 more to go if you really got 150. If that's true there are a lot of people who are going to be pretty upset.

I agree with your logic. I also questioned it. I'm sorry if I didn't make that clear in my posts.

Should I have not reported my experience?

Either way people are going to be upset. I am just trying to help out the community.

Feel free to update this thread with your confirmations.

[07FIREBLADE]

What you poted was perfectly fine. I will update my thread when I find out more info. I got screwed last year at the DMV and they refused to give me a SB100 number. Can't wait for this whole process to end and hopefully the people at your DMV were just being retarded. If you were the last person I would of really pushed getting to the inspections and you might of been the person in my shoes. Oh well time will tell.

[flynntuna]

Somewere I read that the state splits up the allotment of 500 to the various districts within the state. Could be that the southern districts allotment is gone. But my memory isn't what it was. :rolleyes:

[billjr212]

If you have the rear reservoir tank connected to the front overflow tank (as like OEM), then it should suck the coolant back in, from the front overflow to the turbo reservoir, when the car cools down. If they are disconnected, then the front will overflow and the rear will empty = bad.

I'm not sure what solution other people have found who have both tanks- perhaps running a radiator cap for a non turbo subaru, picked up at any parts store, on the radiator and the turbo reservoir would solve the problem, as it would permit both to overflow and pull vacuum as required. The PSI is different on the two caps though, so not sure how that would affect things for someone with a traditional setup.

Tamra - I also have the 2 separate overflows. Right now I'm using the same cap on both the radiator and the burp tank/turbo resevoir by the engine. (both are the cap that would normally have been just on the burp tank in the initial configuration, so allows both directions). I haven't cycled it enough times to determine if this is going to create a problem with 1 always emptying and the other always pulling fluid back in.

[07FIREBLADE]

Just got off the phone with the DMV and they said they haven't reached the 500 limit yet. They wouldn't tell me the current number but they haven't gotten there yet. That was a relief but I'm going to hurry up now and get through my next inspections so I can get my number.

[bbjones121]

any new interior photos?

[matteo92065]

Just got off the phone with the DMV and they said they haven't reached the 500 limit yet. They wouldn't tell me the current number but they haven't gotten there yet. That was a relief but I'm going to hurry up now and get through my next inspections so I can get my number.

HEY, THAT'S GREAT!
Thanks for updating this thread.

Now, was the nice lady at the DMV not telling me the truth when telling me that my Sequence Number is in the mail!? That would really suck for me.

[matteo92065]

any new interior photos?

No, I haven't installed my interior yet. I'm still working on eliminating all the dash lights, and installing misc. switch wiring.

[matteo92065]

Installing the hood hinge now. Its going quite well.

Zero Decibel Motorsports rocks!

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[Mechie3]

:) Thanks for test fitting!

[matteo92065]

This project is so much work. Does it ever end? I put on all my body panels like it was my last time doing it. All buttoned up! Yah!

Oh NO! The seat belts don't work! WTF? I have the sedan seat belts and they will not retract enough to reset the child-seat function. Only way to work on them, is to take off the side sails. ARRG! Another two hours gone. Now the mechanism has been modified and all is well now. But it seems like everything about this car has gone that way for me. Do it once, twice and sometimes a third time.

I took some time on the doors and door handles. This simple piece of metal is what I did that makes me feel better about my doors. The handle and liner install with no effort. I'll have to take a picture of final product this weekend.
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That brings me to my three favorite things in the shop this week. 1) welder; I don't know how you can do this project with out a welder. I have made so many little brackets and tabs. 2) cordless rotary cut off wheel; this little guy will make short work of trimming and cutting fiberglass, aluminum, and steel. 3) safety glasses; I use to only wear them every now and then, but with this project I can't pick up a power tool with out putting them on. I've just gotten so use to wearing them. I feel invincible with them on.
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Brackets and welding. These brackets were made for one part of the car. Do you know where they go?
43047

Tips & Tricks;
After side sails are in the perfect position, tack weld the washer to the frame. This way you can remove then reinstall side sails, and get really close, instantly.
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[Mechie3]

Brackets look like awic mounts. One mounts near turbo, other on top of trans where the pitch stop used to be. Not sure about others.

[Hindsight]

I hear you on the welder. Best money I've spent on the project, and fun to learn too.

[Frank818]

Can't believe I missed this thread, damn, I thought I was only stupid about the wipers. lolll

Yeah no welder no project!!!
No cut-off wheel no project either.
Same for glasses, but just the glasses will make you invicible until the day you cut metal with a happy face and get a metal part sling-shotting onto your cheek. Happened to me, got very lucky I had little damage. :) Or maybe I had and that's why I got issues with the wipers... oh well!

That bracket on the door frame is to hold the handle?

[matteo92065]

Brackets look like awic mounts. One mounts near turbo, other on top of trans where the pitch stop used to be. Not sure about others.

Yes, they are awic mounts and a transmission anti-pitch mount.

[matteo92065]

This was my view coming to work this morning.
43063

Driving 25 miles to work in a brand new car that I built feels like trying to go to the moon. At one point you just gotta go. No more around the block with tools near by. No more trailer with in 5 minute walk. Well, I made it!!!
Now I have to make it home. :rolleyes:

[matteo92065]

Can't believe I missed this thread, damn, I thought I was only stupid about the wipers. lolll

Yeah no welder no project!!!
No cut-off wheel no project either.
Same for glasses, but just the glasses will make you invicible until the day you cut metal with a happy face and get a metal part sling-shotting onto your cheek. Happened to me, got very lucky I had little damage. :) Or maybe I had and that's why I got issues with the wipers... oh well!

That bracket on the door frame is to hold the handle?

Yes, I also spent WAY too much time on windshield wiper(s) that will be taken off right after inspection.

Yes, the bracket is a bent piece of metal, welded onto the door frame. The manual calls for a spacer that was impossible to make work in a clean, sturdy manor.

[Hindsight]

Congrats!!! That's a major milestone. Better do something about the oil temp and pressure though ;)

[Mechie3]

Nice!

[matteo92065]

Congrats!!! That's a major milestone. Better do something about the oil temp and pressure though ;)

Thanks!

Yes, the temp and pressure sending units are not connected yet. But it is fun to watch what the pre and post intercooler temps do under different driving conditions.

[07FIREBLADE]

Congrats on the first drive. I've been doing the same almost everyday since I got my sb100 number. Trying to work out the kinks.

[Frank818]

This was my view coming to work this morning.
43063

Driving 25 miles to work in a brand new car that I built feels like trying to go to the moon. At one point you just gotta go. No more around the block with tools near by. No more trailer with in 5 minute walk. Well, I made it!!!
Now I have to make it home. :rolleyes:

Awesome drive!
Sad traffic view, though. lolll
Were people watching your car? I know CA is a great place for special cars and one-off cars, so people get probably used to it, but just asking.

About your gauge plate, what exactly is it and how did you tighten up the gauges?
I'm sure you got pix in your thread, though.

[matteo92065]

Awesome drive!
Sad traffic view, though. lolll
Were people watching your car? I know CA is a great place for special cars and one-off cars, so people get probably used to it, but just asking.

About your gauge plate, what exactly is it and how did you tighten up the gauges?
I'm sure you got pix in your thread, though.

First night out was crazy. Lots of people, questions, etc.... Then the CHP rolled up. I thought to my self, oh, I'm in trouble now. My brake hoses are not DOT approved, my headlights are too low, my wipers still rub the hood, and I have a check engine light on.
But you know the first thing out of his mouth!? "Is that an 818?" I could not believe it! He said that he has been following the car ever since he saw it on GrassrootsMotorsports a year or so ago. Crazy. He gave me all sorts of advice on how to make things go smoothly.

The gauge plate is a 3-D printed part. Simple. I can make some for who ever wants it. I made it so you can remove the gauges then remove the dash. If the gauges are attached to the dash it makes it really hard to install and remove the dash. To attach the plate, I drilled and tapped a strip of aluminum then VHB taped it to the backside of the dash. Gauges are attached to the plate just like they would to any hole, then the plate screws to the dash with 4 10-32 FHCS's.

And today there was some heavy traffic on the 15 North, and a passenger, in another car, is yelling out the window to me, asking me what kind of car is it. The car defiantly gets a lot of attention.

There are still many little, and not so little, things to fix on it, but right now its been a kick to experience.

[matteo92065]

pictures
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[Flamshackle]

pictures
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Great work! it looks awesome :-)

are they xxr 270 or 300s?

[Mechie3]

Those photos look excellent!

[Mitch Wright]

Nice Job.

[matteo92065]

Great work! it looks awesome :-)

are they xxr 270 or 300s?

XXR530s. 18"rear , 17"front.
Thanks!

[matteo92065]

Thanks Craig!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great job, looks good
Bob

[flynntuna]

Congratulations!! :cool:

[flynntuna]

Buy the way, I'm going to my nices wedding this afternoon in your neck of the woods at the Mt Woodson Castle. Someone doing donuts in the parking lot would be awesome! :rolleyes:

[matteo92065]

what time? give me a window and I'll try for a fly-by. No donuts, yet.:cool:

[flynntuna]

The ceremony's at 3:30, guessing dinner's at 5 ish. Dancing till 10:00

[Frank818]

Are those Craig's larger hood louvers or FFR size?

[Mechie3]

Those are mine. :D

[STiPWRD]

Those photos look great, congrats! I'd be interested in the gauge plate if you're making anymore.

[matteo92065]

Those photos look great, congrats! I'd be interested in the gauge plate if you're making anymore.

I'll make some next week.

[matteo92065]

Sometimes I'm a bad mechanic.

I've been chasing this MAF sensor problem down, with no luck till now. During trouble shooting, I have replaced it, data logged it, cleaned it, tried to install it 180*(but couldn't), etc. I've been driving it around unplugged, and its been great.

Until now! It turns out that I installed my intake tube backwards. The sensor needed to be turned around. I don't have any experience with MAF sensors and how sensitive they are; till now. Runs like a champ now.

I just finished removing all my error codes (tgv's removed) using AccessPort Race software. Pretty easy job.

Did some wheel alignments.

Its getting so close to complete!
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[Frank818]

Sometimes I'm a bad mechanic.

But you are a great wiper designer. Not easy to fab the damn brackets to make it solid in place and precisely at the right place so it has enough tension on the glass and not too much so the arm/spring don't rub on the glass. My solution will look so cheap, but then again as long as it passes inspection, I don't care for the future since I won't be using it.


MAF sensors are usually very sensitive, yes.
I'm glad I deleted that part and am using other methods of control, even though I admit MAFs are normally precise to calculate the amount of air.

So you were driving the car to work without a good wheel alignment?

Why 2 computers?

[matteo92065]

But you are a great wiper designer. Not easy to fab the damn brackets to make it solid in place and precisely at the right place so it has enough tension on the glass and not too much so the arm/spring don't rub on the glass. My solution will look so cheap, but then again as long as it passes inspection, I don't care for the future since I won't be using it.


MAF sensors are usually very sensitive, yes.
I'm glad I deleted that part and am using other methods of control, even though I admit MAFs are normally precise to calculate the amount of air.

So you were driving the car to work without a good wheel alignment?

Why 2 computers?

Wheel alignment; It goes in stages for me. First I do it by eye, drive it a little, then I progressively put more time and effort into it. I am now getting it fine tuned and driving it in-between adjustments to feel the change.

2 computers; The AccessPort RACE only runs on a PC, so I have that. I am mostly a Mac guy at home, so I have that to reference the web while I program the AccessPort/ecu.

[matteo92065]

For the interior, the biggest deviation from the manual is leaving the tunnel open. My harness is fairly small, so I could tuck that up above the rails. It leaves a good place for the extinguisher for easy access for driver and passenger to reach. Its also under-lit at night.
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[NBinSD]

Looks great Matt! I like how the center console with the k-tuned came out. Are you using Wayne's (rear cable) k-tuned or FFR's?

[Frank818]

Wow, that 5th pic with the landscape in the background, NICE PLACE! I envy you a million times.

Are those the OEM hinges on the humps deck lid?

[Tamra]

That looks great!!

[matteo92065]

Thanks for kind comments!

I'm sitting at the CHP office trying to get VIN number assigned. It's been almost 2 hours now. Arrrg. 43407

[matteo92065]

Oh, and I'm in San Diego where it never rains, except for today. It's actually a heavy mist.
The mist hits the windshield, then travels up to the top of windshield frame, then falls down into car in big water drops. I have a wet area from mid dash to mid seats. Arrrg.

[flynntuna]

Yea, June gloom in July. :( We've had summers were the sun hardly ever showed. Natural air conditioning I guess:rolleyes:

[Zodiac]

I've been working on wiring. and working. and working.

My goal was to do something between what the FFR manual says and what iWire would do. Doing it this way should be easier for me and others to troubleshoot, as all the Subaru wire colors and names are unchanged. So far I am very pleased with the results.

The biggest change to the harness was to remove the two large fuse panels. Then replace them with one of these fuse panels. (http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46354/RFRM-FUSE-RELAY-2-88-MM-DUAL/) Since most of what is on the original panels is no longer being used, I don't see the need of keeping them around and trying to place them.
I did keep the individual relays like B102, B103, B46, B47, B309 and the F27 relay block.

I'm down to 23 fuses/breakers, and 5 relays.

This is a picture of my panel with call outs.
38388

This is shows more detail:
38389

I'm looking to go back to my wiring in the near future maybe and want to really clean things up and basically make my own similar to iwire like you are. What size terminals did you use? I figured the 280 series since looks like nothing really goes over 30 amps. but if you have more insight on this subject that would help tremendously

[matteo92065]

I'm looking to go back to my wiring in the near future maybe and want to really clean things up and basically make my own similar to iwire like you are. What size terminals did you use? I figured the 280 series since looks like nothing really goes over 30 amps. but if you have more insight on this subject that would help tremendously

I believe I did use 280 series. I'm no expert on wiring, but mine works and I really like how it came out. For the most part I copied everything Subaru did. I used a fuse when they did, and used a circuit breaker when they did. I used all factory wires and sizes.

[matteo92065]

My night lights
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[matteo92065]

Here are some IR pictures I took tonight. Just after sunset, and I was not driving the car hard. I will take more when I have time. I want to figure out where the heat in the car is coming from and going.

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[Tamra]

That's neat! Can you lock the temp scale for the rear photo at a lower peak point? The exhaust overwhelms the rest of the picture.

Side note: I want your garage

[matteo92065]

That's neat! Can you lock the temp scale for the rear photo at a lower peak point? The exhaust overwhelms the rest of the picture.

Side note: I want your garage

yes, I can adjust the scale, and take off the crosshair. I was just short on time last night, but I've desperately wanted to get a few shots for sometime now.

Thanks we (mostly me) really like our garage and property.

[Mechie3]

Those IR photos are cool. I need to see if we have one here at work now too. Interesting to see that the heat on the hood louvers is more focused towards the back. Wonder if that's just because it's getting trapped past the louver or because of the airflow more air moves out through the back of the louver so the front never heats up as much.

[matteo92065]

... Wonder if that's just because it's getting trapped past the louver or because of the airflow more air moves out through the back of the louver so the front never heats up as much.

Thats exactly what I'm looking for. Where does the heat go and why. I more pictures I'll try to post soon.

Other quick observations, the passenger hump is much hotter than divers side. My small engine cover vents are not cut out, but they get warmer than surrounding material. My license plate vent is very warm. The coolant lines are heating the footwell corners by a significant amount..

[Frank818]

Damn I love San Diego. :)

[matteo92065]

All my aluminum bits and pieces are black anodized now.
The hood louvers look especially good now.
The Hood Hinge also looks much better, but I had to paint the cross piece for some extra POP!
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[matteo92065]

I installed some NRG seats this weekend.
MUCH better than the original 06 WRX seats. I cut the WRX seats all the way down to the factory sliders but still could not get them low enough. The new NRG seats are 2-3" lower, and slightly narrower. I have no problems with the quality of the NRG seats either. For about $250 delivered, they just can't be beat. I never weighed the seats, but the WRX are at least twice as heavy as the NRG seats. IIRC, NRG is advertised as ~30lbs each.
I also have some certified racing seats, but they are so narrow that several of my family and friends cant fit in them comfortably, so those will only be installed on track/autox days.

[matteo92065]

worked on the fuse box.
Finishing touch on the fuse box is the legend to call out what is inside. Here is a picture of it being laser engraved. I'll post pictures of final product later.
43682

[Mechie3]

Nice! I assume the laser is one of Victor's "toys"?

[matteo92065]

Nice! I assume the laser is one of Victor's "toys"?

It's not a Toy, it's a Tool! ;p

[matteo92065]

What if something happens on the road?

I've been venturing farther and farther from the nest with the 818. I feel the need to carry some tools with me.
So I put this together. Mostly HF cheap stuff, but I think I can take the whole car apart. It fits nicely behind the seat with no rattles.
43765

[Mechie3]

I used to do that in my WRX. It was modified enough that things sometimes went wrong. It was hilarious to watch me pull over, hop out, and in 5 minutes be back in the car speeding away.

[TouchStone]

Installing the hood hinge now. Its going quite well.

Zero Decibel Motorsports rocks!

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What fiberglass cloth and resin do you prefer?

[matteo92065]

What fiberglass cloth and resin do you prefer?

I use 6oz cloth and resin from fiberlay.com

[matteo92065]

All inspections are complete! All went smoothly for the most part.
The ONE BIG HICUP...
FFR had my frame stamped with its serial number, but the paper work did not EXACTLY match. It had one extra 0.
My bosses, 'the hard way', is the same way. The CHP caught it, only after I got my sequence number certificate that was created with a different number. This caused a lot of confusion and frustration. But it is finally done!

For anyone in San Diego, the place to go for Brake and Light Inspection is WAY down south off the 905. When you can see Mexico from the shop, you are in the right place. Dig this ==> Do ALL of your lights work? Do brakes, and e-brake, work with decent pad life left? Yes?, then you pass. ~$60, 10 minutes. That place rocked!

BAR was also very easy. Free, ~30 minutes, lots of pictures, quick PCV inspection, VIN inspection, and then entering stuff into the computer.

No inspection even looked, or asked about, my cool windshield wiper install! BOO.

I've put almost 2000 miles on the car now. i'm getting about 21/28mpg. My gas gauge likes to show near empty when I've used 6 gallons. I usually drive for 100 miles, then put 4 gallons in just to keep the gauge up. I have a 2006 NA Impreza transmission, and it does almost 3000 RPM at 70. I'm still chasing down rear fender noise and some rubbing on bumps. I think I'll put some dynomat (or similar) on the interior side of the fender sheet metal. Every time the tires pick up a little something from the road, it makes a lot of noise. I need a roof. But not a full soft top, and defiantly not a hard top. Just something to keep the sun off of me and the seats when I'm not in the car. The car will run at ~185F while moving, and ~205F in stop-and-go, with ambient around 78F. The AWIC will only heat soak ~+15F when stuck in heavy traffic, But will quickly drop to ambient after less than a minute of movement at decent speed. Its actually amazing how well an AWIC works. The air coming into the IC can be ~160F, and then in 10inches, it exits at ~90F!
Speaking of heat. There is a lot of heat coming into the cabin. It is always a warm ride. I know that I'm getting heat from engine area AND radiator area. I thought I did a pretty good job of sealing off the front of the car. The rear has all sorts of large gaps that let engine air circulate to cabin.
I'm really glad I took the time to put in the ABS. It will activate when I'm pushing the car hard, and in most cases I'm glad when it does its thing.
I still need to re-adjust the doors for a better fit, get a motor tune, fine tune body panels & gaps, hook up oil temp & pressure sending units, fix shaking rear view mirror, install trunk, finish interior trim, finish exterior details & graphics, install acusump, install rear Willwood brakes, get top motor vents from Craig when available, install stereo?, install new seat belts/harness, adjust shift linkage as going into first and fifth are a little tight compared to the rest of the gears, and take it on some local twisty roads.

Inspection station
44267

My new sticker
44268

Just another car at work
44269

[Mechie3]

Awesome!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Congratulations Matteo.
Thanks for all the comments on your driving experience. It will give others things they can fix during their build.
My list is longer than yours.
Bob

[07FIREBLADE]

Nice. Now turn in your paperwork at the DMV and get your plates. I got mine on Wednesday. And I'm in the same boat as you need to take the time get all the small details finished up except I'm going hardtop route. My hiccup was at the state ref giving me grief for one of my forms not being filed out quite right but on call to Sacramento cleared it all up.

[Kurk818]

My CMO and vin plate were one "0" off as well. They made the paperwork match the frame stamping. Someone should give FFR a heads up.

[Tamra]

Congrats!

[matteo92065]

Thanks all!

I drove by the DMV this morning to turn in my papers. The line was around the building! I just read that 883,000 licenses have been issued to undocumented immigrants this year. DMV expects to give out 1.5 Million licenses by the end of the year.

Since the DMV did mess up some of my paperwork, a supervisor gave me her card and told me to go directly to her. No lines, no appointment! But I still don't want to wait 30 minutes just to get in the building.

[wleehendrick]

FFR had my frame stamped with its serial number, but the paper work did not EXACTLY match. It had one extra 0.

When I bought my Z used, the VIN had an error (a '7' on the car was recorded as a 'T' on the previous owner's registration and title). The original dealer must have made the mistake; I transferred ownership fine with the error, but my insurance company caught the mistake since the VIN wasn't valid. That was fun to fix with the DMV.


For anyone in San Diego, the place to go for Brake and Light Inspection is WAY down south off the 905. When you can see Mexico from the shop, you are in the right place. Dig this ==> Do ALL of your lights work? Do brakes, and e-brake, work with decent pad life left? Yes?, then you pass. ~$60, 10 minutes. That place rocked!

BAR was also very easy. Free, ~30 minutes, lots of pictures, quick PCV inspection, VIN inspection, and then entering stuff into the computer.

Awesome... Thanks for the info... makes me optimistic!


No inspection even looked, or asked about, my cool windshield wiper install! BOO.

Great... That means I won't bother!


I need a roof. But not a full soft top, and defiantly not a hard top. Just something to keep the sun off of me and the seats when I'm not in the car.

Exactly, I want to make a jeep-style bikini top tensioned between the windshield and roll-bar. My wife has a drop-top; the temp/humidity are never so high that we need AC here, but the sun can be brutal at mid-day.


P.S. my 818 was the first to be delivered in S.D. county, but you kicked my butt on the build schedule... congrats on the first registered S.D. 818!

[matteo92065]

P.S. my 818 was the first to be delivered in S.D. county, but you kicked my butt on the build schedule... congrats on the first registered S.D. 818! Thanks! It was/is a lot of work, and I kind of pushed myself to get it to 95%. I'll take my time on the last 5%

The rear end has a new look!
44326

And a couple of the engine bay before I put in the trunk.
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I can only afford to buy $.99 drinks at McD's after building this car. Have to have some place to hold them. Actually worked out to be a good spot to put a drink holder.
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[Hindsight]

Looking good! I like the drop light.... been looking for one that stays put where you lay it and can be aimed instead of always wanting to shine directly into your face regardless of where you position it!

[Brando]

All inspections are complete! All went smoothly for the most part.
The ONE BIG HICUP...
FFR had my frame stamped with its serial number, but the paper work did not EXACTLY match. It had one extra 0.
My bosses, 'the hard way', is the same way. The CHP caught it, only after I got my sequence number certificate that was created with a different number. This caused a lot of confusion and frustration. But it is finally done!

For anyone in San Diego, the place to go for Brake and Light Inspection is WAY down south off the 905. When you can see Mexico from the shop, you are in the right place. Dig this ==> Do ALL of your lights work? Do brakes, and e-brake, work with decent pad life left? Yes?, then you pass. ~$60, 10 minutes. That place rocked!

BAR was also very easy. Free, ~30 minutes, lots of pictures, quick PCV inspection, VIN inspection, and then entering stuff into the computer.

No inspection even looked, or asked about, my cool windshield wiper install! BOO.



That's awesome Matt. What a great find on the B&L inspection. So the Bar didn't even send to Sacramento? You hit it right, congrats on knocking that out. There are quite a few of these on the road in CA now. If you ever head up to OC with your 818, let's take them on a PCH cruise. Or, if you are feeling more adventurous AutoX at the El toro Marine base. PM me

[Mechie3]

Brando is back!

[matteo92065]

That's awesome Matt. What a great find on the B&L inspection. So the Bar didn't even send to Sacramento? You hit it right, congrats on knocking that out. There are quite a few of these on the road in CA now. If you ever head up to OC with your 818, let's take them on a PCH cruise. Or, if you are feeling more adventurous AutoX at the El toro Marine base. PM me

Yes, we should do a SoCal 818 cruise. I've always wanted to do the Angeles Crest Highway or Little Tujunga Canyon Rd
https://youtu.be/L9zndCFXdgo?t=1m51s

How has your car been?! Using it?

[07FIREBLADE]

So down to do that eventually. We will have all 818 models available

[matteo92065]

I just didn't feel safe driving around in with my shoulder belt on. I thought it would be fine with factory belts, but the car is too fast and too small. It took me about 8 hours to install the 5-point harnesses.

I had to remove interior and exterior rear fire walls, seats and old belts. I then welded tabs in for the front points, and reused the two lower lap points. I welded in threaded inserts that penetrate both sides of the square tube near your shoulders. After that there was a lot of installing, removing, and changing the length of the belts to get the lengths just right.
45447
Now on to testing. I live near some of the best twisty roads in San Diego County, and this is the first time taking the 818 out on them. Whats more impressive than the power to weight ratio, is the handling. I am by no means an expert driver or really know my suspension stuff, but wow this thing is a blast on twisty roads. Not too hard to hang with the sport bikes.
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Then I took the dog out for a quick night time cruise.
45448

[Hindsight]

Looking good. I like that steering wheel. Why did you have to remove the outer rear firewall?

[matteo92065]

Looking good. I like that steering wheel. Why did you have to remove the outer rear firewall?

Thanks. I removed the outer rear firewall because I had to cut out areas to clear the welded in bosses for the seat belt anchors. And had to move the mounts for the fuel filter that was displaced by the new seat belt tabs. I did reinstall all of the sheetmetal after I was done. I was trying to show how much work it is to add some thing that you would think is a quick easy job.

I think the steering wheel is this one: 015TRGL1TUV (http://www.sparcousa.com/product/l360)